Same shit with PRS SE. I don't understand why they don't pop up the price 10 dollars so they can come with Graph Tech out of the factory... stupid that I have to do this myself because the nut is horribly cut and bad quality material.
@@schmidth Because they'll have to buy those nuts from Graftech, which in turn will cost them more money. A plastic nut at their warehouse cost them less than a penny I bet. Regardless though, I'm with ya!!!
@@rockstarbmf9595 There is only one plastic I know of that claims to be self lubricating and that is PTFE so I wonder what these nuts are made of? The whole point is they wouldn't have to come from graftech it is the plastic they use and China/Mexico can spit plastic out, even self lubricating kind, pennies on the thousand so really is no excuse.
Thank you for posting this, very informative! I'll be changing the nuts on both of my Epiphone Les Pauls myself where I'd usually take them to a tech; seems easy and straightforward!
It certainly does beat that price....but in all fairness $125 is not outrageous for a guitar shop to charge... It's close to an hour of their time start to finish that keeps them from doing other paid work. They take liability for potential damage to your instrument during this process, and they have the overhead of running the store to cover. I don't feel that you were knocking a store for trying to make a $...I just felt inclined to expand on your comment. I hope your install went well.
I have a newer Epiphone firebird V and the nut started shifting in the slot due to the string pull (angled on the High E side). I took the strings off and it was loose. I have ordered a Graphtech nut and hopefully it will do better. Going to use a couple of drops of super glue. Very helpful video.
Thanks for this video. I just sat down to change the nut on my Explorer... Then I thought to myself.... Self, do I know how to do this??? Hahaha thanks again for the help.
Greetings Mark, Just subscribed to your channel, I recently got me a good deal on an Epiphone Gold top, Every Guitarist should own a Goldtop in their collection. Recently installed Gibson 490's pickups and now installing this exact same nut. A guitarist should be able to do all repairs on their own instrument, its part of mastering I believe. Thank you for sharing brother, You sound like your from New England, I was born and raised in Maine. :)
@@nogripes I look forward to the vids. Hope to make it back up to Maine the next spring, folks still live up there, Great place to go for a vacation. I am up around the Skowhegan area. My accent still comes out from time to time. I get called on it once in a while. heh Can't wait to (pak the ca in the yad, and go to the ba for a bea) lol
Nice job. If you had a small set of nut slot files, the slots could be cut just a touch deeper, and you action at the first fret would be more fine tuned. Your guitar would play much better potentially.
Lmao watching this in 2024 you’re rocking Windows 7 in the background on the computer lmao. Thank you for the video. My LP I just picked up on Reverb has very deep slots on the nut and while I have the action set pretty good I feel like the strings are sitting a tad too low in the nut. It’s my understanding your strings more rest on the nut then they get forced *into* the nut. On my LP the strings are no joke in the nut
If your Epi plays good and sounds great then I wouldn't be in such a hurry to move to a "G" you might be disappointed. I recently bought a LP studio and Immediately had to gut the entire electronics and upgrade because they were total junk. The best sounding LP that I ever played was a 1976 Ibanez copy, loved that guitar and sold it for $350 to get the real thing and regretted it big time.Electric guitars are about the electrical components which can easily be upgraded and customized.I have several Custom Shop guitars but one of my favorite playing and sounding is a Mexican Tele I gutted and upgraded,love that thing. Now Acoustic guitars are the complete opposite, there it is all about the wood and how the bracing is constructed,buying a Martin or Taylor will be worth the extra $$$$
I used to find there was quite a difference but in the past couple years that difference has narrowed, especially when you compare a high end Epiphone to a lower end Gibson (such as a Studio). The finish quality is definitely better in a Gibson than an Epi - though once again that is narrowing. I have a new Epi G400 SG that looks and feels nicer and has much better tuners than my 2011 Gibson SG - though the Gibson wins for having a rosewood fretboard and better pickups. But no Epi LP (at least that I've owned - and I've owned about 10) compares to my Gibson Standards.
Ha I use elmers to, just a tiny bit and I let it dry. Mainly just so it don’t move while I’m stringing it. The tension of the strings will hold the nut in place. At least that’s the theory I’m sticking with
@@theophany1770 It still may help yours. His plastic nut may have been cut better than yours. I'm having tuning trouble mostly on my G string. When I turn the tuner, I can hear little metallic tinking noise. The dude at GC said that the string is catching on the nut. I believe him. I'm watching this video so I can try it out. Nut and locking tuners are both said to help.
Evening fellow Mainiac, well got my new Tusq XL nut from Sweetwater, been holding off installing it and going to attempt installing it in place of the plastic nut that is on it this weekend. Really hoping it makes a big difference. Concerned about having to maybe filing out the grooves . Wish me luck. :)
@@nogripes Thank you. Yes Mark, they throw in a nice bag on every order. Pretty good too. :) I do all my musical order stuff from Sweetwater, if you buy a guitar from them, they set it up completely before you get it. Its called a 50 pt. inspection.
@@nogripes Installed the new Tusq nut and it went smooth, and I did not have to file out the string grooves either. I can hear the difference already. Cleaned the fretboard, installed new strings, checked string height and pickup height and tuned and set intonation.
@@nogripes I totally agree Mark, hopefully I can bring it up to par with next is a bridge and saddle upgrade. For example PRS makes the CE models and the SE models are their more inexpensive models, but the overall craftsmanship is still outstanding on them. Paul wouldn't have it any other way. My next guitar is a Pauls Guitar SE. (www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SEPGFI--prs-se-pauls-guitar-fire-red) If my better half allows it to happen. You have a great Sunday as well bro.
@The Guitar Geezer the key is to get similar looking guitars...when the wife questions it, you say, “That old thing? You’ve seen me playing that a million times!”
Do not use wood glue to fix the saddle! It remains too elastic after drying. This absorbs the transmission of the vibrations to the wood. For something like this, you should use a glue that becomes very hard and that can also be easily removed again, as you may want to replace a saddle from time to time. My guitar maker only uses superglue for this.
DO use wood glue that's what it's for and unless it's an acoustic guitar anything about tone wood or "transmissions of the sonic vibrations" goes out of the window, it's a bunch of marketing garbage anyway. I assume you mean the nut when you say "saddle" right? You know this is an ELECTRONIC guitar, right?
Yeah... But a very scarce dose of super glue for that job, I would suggest. The classic guitar builders, like in other string instruments do not recommend using glue or, at least, as less glue as you can... The nut in a violin or in a classic guitar should fit its gap and should stay in place by its own preassure.
What size strings will go in those precut slots? What if I want to put some larger strings for drop tuning, like a 10-52 set? Will I now have to file the slots??
10-52 is not really a thick string set. 52's will fit these nuts just fine. What really affects the stability of your strings is the overall set up. Just take ti to your local Louie and have him set it up. Remember that if you play with a drop tune, the entire guitar has to be set up for it anyway. Otherwise your intonation will be crap, you run the risk of twisting your neck and overall playability just suffers.
Question- The string slot for the low E (or any string for that matter)... how wide shoild they be..? Should they be just wide enough for the string or wide enough to slide the string back and forth?
The factory's over seas are really upping their game. Check out Eastman acoustic guitars, really nice. I play a Mapex Saturn drum kit, totally awesome drums. It is easier to turn over big name brands on ebay, but the quality of the import stuff is getting quite good. Back in the 60's when I was a kid my mom used to tell me "Made in Japan " was junk, now I can't afford it, it's a new world order
Super glue, two small drops, is much better to use as it spreads out better under the nut. Thicker glue, like the white glue used here and wood glue is too lumpy and can result in an uneven nut. Also wood glue will leave a terrible mess when the nut is removed again. You will have to clean out the pocket and it can take extra wood with it which is even worse.
I just did mine...Even though I used the razor to score it, it chipped off a very small amount of paint...Any suggestions to fix it? It's white colored with a glossy finish...Maybe white out just to cover it up? It's super tiny, like a hair, but I will notice it.
i have just changed the nut on my epiphone les paul standard for the exact same tusq nut you used. everything fits extremely well, I didnt have to sand down the nut a lot. but now that I have put the stringa back on I get a buzz when I strumm the open strings. It happens with all strings but the high E is the most notable. do you (or anyone else) have any idea what the case is here?
My stock Epiphone Nighthawk nut seems a lot lower than that of your Les Paul, I think that is the cause of the issues I'm having hence I cannot use my stock nut as a guide to make another, how would you recommend I go about a nut replacement?
Have a 1971 Goya by Martin G301 Acoustic Guitar w/missing nut (very nice guitar). Can't seem to find the correct replacement size. I measure it as 43.xx mm X 7mm flat bottom. Any recommendations? I guess I could always buy the closest match and re-position my truss rod cover to cover gap??? Frustrating not to be able to find one to match. Seems to me that 6.0mm is a big difference and will look bad.
+Tricko Try Guitarsaddles.com He will make anything you want out of several different materials. He made me one for my Seagull S6. I had to size it a bit and then cut the string slots but not to hard. Good luck
I've been trying to get that answer for days. All of these videos skip over the specs. Since their instructions say use .010 and .006, I'm assuming the slot depths are graduated. But I need to know for certain.
Great job, thanks. I have a project guitar that I'm using to get to know how to tech it myself. What was the name of that measuring tool you used to measure the distance between the string and the fret?
Fret Buzz! Hello, I did this exactly as done in this video. I have a question to anyone that can help please!!! Filed it perfectly flat so that is a non issue. I reset the action to factory default (quite high). The neck has the factory default relief and it has sat for a week or two so it is well settled. Also brand new strings d'addario 10's. I am getting a deep fret buzz when pressing down the first fret of the Low E and a little bit on the A. The E is pretty bad. Epiphone Les Paul Custom with no damage.
Measure the length, width, and height of the nut on your guitar. Go to the Graphtech website and match your measurements to one of their products, then (like I did) order that nut from Amazon. I had to buy one for my Gibson LP and my Jackson Dinky. Fairly easy to do if you have at least a ruler to measure mm.
I had one lesson on my Fender Stratocaster 11 years ago and finally took it out to learn with my Nephew who is getting a set for Christmas. What I want to do is take mine, and his, to a Luthier to have setup but I want my nut (needs replacing) to be replaced with this but how do I know it is the real deal as the Luthier could stick a turd on there and I have no idea if legit or not?
Why would you change the nut on a guitar you played a few times 11 years ago? Anyway, just buy the nut of your choice and take it to your Louie. Most are not interested in ripping you off, they are interested in you coming back.
@@AB-80X It was actually 16 years ago and I replaced the nut myself with a TusQXL. I also redid the frets myself. Fuck louies they all suck, at least around here, and prices from hell too. 80 dollars minimum at most and one is 65. For a nut job expect 120 USD in my city PER every single one I called. I finally said fuck it, and them, and if I tear this sob up then so be it.
I didn't go through all the comments, but has anyone mentioned how bad your frets are? When you were dropping them on your neck, you could see the dents pretty clearly.
The nut on my Strat style guitar is similar to this. It sits at the very beginning of the fretboard instead of in a slot on the fretboard like you find on real Strats. The only thing is that I don't think there's any sort of relief cut for the nut so it basically just sits there, it appears. Obviously it's going to be replaceable, I'm just not sure what I'd replace it with. I guess I need to pull it, measure it, and see if anyone offers one that can be modified to fit.
put a slab of wood under the sandpaper to have a flat surface to sand on... Nut slots will have to be cut to deepen them and give a correct nut slot depth. Best done by a pro and not a guy who cannot do it (which he cannot) except with nut slot files.
I didn't do any sanding I just researched for the TusQ that was slotted for 1/2 Epiphone and when I compared the old and new the matched perfect except the old plastic one was chipped on the top E string but the other side "G" matched perfect. I need to get it looked at but I just had it restored from a buddy. Do you think the company is that good to have it perfect without sanding? I didn't glue it yet... It almost seemed to snug right into place.
***** I call it a Dumpster Les Paul. I say dumpster because someone was throwing it away but it was completely stripped no wires one of the tuners was missing. I had a friend completely rewire it to early vintage wiring spec. I had another friend give me some mightymite pick ups. It had no bridge so I got that at a used guitar shop from a guy who did a new install. So I put about 300 dollars in parts and labor including the Ephipone case for 87.00. The number on the back of the guitar shows it was made in 97 in Samick but I am not 100% on this the code is 97S223855 (not sure of the last 4 numbers guitar is not in front of me) So that would be a 97 made in Feb. but then 5 digits means it was over 20000 of them made in 97 at that plant in Korea. I have put the serial number in search engines to generate it but it will not come up as a good number. I can't believe that someone would throw this guitar away. It plays really good according to all my guitar players I show it too. In fact my guitar player ended up trading his old fernadz for a Ephip 2014 Les Paul that I guy traded cause an x gf gave it to him for Christmas. It is a very pretty guitar.
Left Wing Fascists Moaning Lisas graphtech.com/products/brands/tusq/product-detail/pq-6060-00-tusq-nut-slotted-epiphone-style-1-4-?id=6268b557-736e-40d1-8ca7-24c7be50ba3a It is not an XL though but I think it sounds really good
There is a youtube review of Gibson vs Epi LP's by Anderton Music. The reviewers were shocked as they came to the "sustain" test of the guitars and to their astonishment the Epi locked on to the note with glorious harmonic overtone and sustain and literally would not stop ringing....go figure
@@nogripes man. It's funny how impatient your reply makes me feel haha. I refretted my les paul about a year ago with extra jumbos. Yeah, the 3.0mm ones. Anyhow, weren't stainless frets, so within a year I'm already having frets choke out and having to raise my action. How people go years without fret dressings escapes me. Oh well, got some stainless fretwire in the mail. Doing the frets and binding.
@@nogripes as well as a graphtech tusq xl nut. Hoping that combined with upgrading the tuners with a set of grover deluxes I had lying around gives it more tuning stability.
open E and A are giving me fret buzz when tuning on brand new epiphone -- i guess this means a warranty issue? either raise the nut or the bridge to stop the buzz? what a bugger
If relief and string action are set correctly, you likely have an incorrectly cut nut, which is cause the strings to buzz at the first fret. Your choices are shimming the old nut, or installing a new one. A new nut is the best option, IMO.
I just changed mine on my singlecut SE from 2007. Had to let the glue cure overnight, since there really isn't a solid channel for the nut to rest in without any adhesive during the fitting process, as it'll pop out when tightening the strings. Unfortunately I think I sanded too much off, because I'm still having high action even with the bridge dropped. Checking the neck relief seems to be right as well. It was a good first time experience though! Better than paying $70+ at a guitar shop.
***** I have an old takamine( my baby) she has worn frets but it scares me to attempt to do a fret job ..the tang has to be trimmed at both ends! what dimention of fret wire to buy and with new frets a new nut I guess?
loadi2 one reason I like Fender style guitars, bolt on neck, Mighty Mite has some great necks at good value; dont have to level frets, redress etc, just replace the neck for $105
He fretted at fret 2 and said fret 3, which is the correct one to do the " 3rd fret test ". He made a mistake that should have been edited out. The '3rd fret test' means fret on the 3rd fret and check the string gap over the 1st and second frets. It's not a '2nd fret test'.
***** You depress the string between the 2nd and 3rd fret wires so that part of the the string toward the nut/headstock is sitting on the 2nd fret wire while you measure the height of the string above the 1st fret wire. You could free up a hand by using a lightly applied capo to do the fretting. There isn't a need to worry about putting the guitar in playing position to measure so long as the neck is supported in the middle as the headstock isn't heavy enough and the lever arm from the 7th fret or so isn't long enough to affect the measurement against the 85-100lb pull of the strings.
+blackdogxx He fretted the third fret so the string would bridge the nut and 2nd fret and he could measure the 1st fret string action. He did that so and other setup variables wouldn't effect his measurement.
Replacement Graphtech Tusq XL Guitar Nut on Amazon - amzn.to/2OZv3x4
Guitar Nut File Set on Amazon - amzn.to/2J0o03A
Guitar Nut Lube on Amazon - amzn.to/34jdHjd
This video has been helping people for 8 years now and I thank & salute you sir
For the price we pay for these guitars, they should include a better quality nut than plastic.
Same shit with PRS SE. I don't understand why they don't pop up the price 10 dollars so they can come with Graph Tech out of the factory... stupid that I have to do this myself because the nut is horribly cut and bad quality material.
@@schmidth Because they'll have to buy those nuts from Graftech, which in turn will cost them more money. A plastic nut at their warehouse cost them less than a penny I bet. Regardless though, I'm with ya!!!
Even a 300 dollar one should consider a Tusq is 10-15 dollars so why not from a major guitar manufacturer? Makes me mad.
@@rockstarbmf9595 There is only one plastic I know of that claims to be self lubricating and that is PTFE so I wonder what these nuts are made of? The whole point is they wouldn't have to come from graftech it is the plastic they use and China/Mexico can spit plastic out, even self lubricating kind, pennies on the thousand so really is no excuse.
@@generalawareness101 These are indeed PTFE, says so on their website!
Thank you for posting this, very informative! I'll be changing the nuts on both of my Epiphone Les Pauls myself where I'd usually take them to a tech; seems easy and straightforward!
Great instructional video. I’m gonna try this. Beats my music store estimate of $125.
It certainly does beat that price....but in all fairness $125 is not outrageous for a guitar shop to charge...
It's close to an hour of their time start to finish that keeps them from doing other paid work. They take liability for potential damage to your instrument during this process, and they have the overhead of running the store to cover.
I don't feel that you were knocking a store for trying to make a $...I just felt inclined to expand on your comment.
I hope your install went well.
Great video! Definitely more confident now when I go to change out the one on my Epiphone!
Thank you so much for the video! Took me less than two minutes to pop it out.
Thank you for making this video the nut on my guitar fell out and this is the only video I could find about how to install one
This video saved my brand new guitar
Thank you for the demo, it was helping me to install my new nut in two minutes, on my Harley Benton L500BK.
thanks , good straight to the point video that i found very helpful. il be replacing the nut on my yamaha acoustic. tony
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Very helpful!
I have a newer Epiphone firebird V and the nut started shifting in the slot due to the string pull (angled on the High E side). I took the strings off and it was loose. I have ordered a Graphtech nut and hopefully it will do better. Going to use a couple of drops of super glue. Very helpful video.
thanks, just changed mine today while watching this
Vielen Dank , durch ihre Anleitung hatte ich keinerlei Probleme,👍
Thanks for this video. I just sat down to change the nut on my Explorer... Then I thought to myself.... Self, do I know how to do this??? Hahaha thanks again for the help.
Great video! Excellent step-by-step explanation and real thorough. Thanks!
Greetings Mark, Just subscribed to your channel, I recently got me a good deal on an Epiphone Gold top, Every Guitarist should own a Goldtop in their collection. Recently installed Gibson 490's pickups and now installing this exact same nut. A guitarist should be able to do all repairs on their own instrument, its part of mastering I believe. Thank you for sharing brother, You sound like your from New England, I was born and raised in Maine. :)
@@nogripes I look forward to the vids. Hope to make it back up to Maine the next spring, folks still live up there, Great place to go for a vacation. I am up around the Skowhegan area. My accent still comes out from time to time. I get called on it once in a while. heh Can't wait to (pak the ca in the yad, and go to the ba for a bea) lol
Nice job. If you had a small set of nut slot files, the slots could be cut just a touch deeper, and you action at the first fret would be more fine tuned. Your guitar would play much better potentially.
Thanks dude. Love my Epi but the binding at the nut is astonishingly bad.
Lmao watching this in 2024 you’re rocking Windows 7 in the background on the computer lmao. Thank you for the video. My LP I just picked up on Reverb has very deep slots on the nut and while I have the action set pretty good I feel like the strings are sitting a tad too low in the nut. It’s my understanding your strings more rest on the nut then they get forced *into* the nut. On my LP the strings are no joke in the nut
I hope you have done your frets since this was made ;)
Very helpful, thanks. Tomorrow I give it a try!
If your Epi plays good and sounds great then I wouldn't be in such a hurry to move to a "G" you might be disappointed. I recently bought a LP studio and Immediately had to gut the entire electronics and upgrade because they were total junk. The best sounding LP that I ever played was a 1976 Ibanez copy, loved that guitar and sold it for $350 to get the real thing and regretted it big time.Electric guitars are about the electrical components which can easily be upgraded and customized.I have several Custom Shop guitars but one of my favorite playing and sounding is a Mexican Tele I gutted and upgraded,love that thing.
Now Acoustic guitars are the complete opposite, there it is all about the wood and how the bracing is constructed,buying a Martin or Taylor will be worth the extra $$$$
I used to find there was quite a difference but in the past couple years that difference has narrowed, especially when you compare a high end Epiphone to a lower end Gibson (such as a Studio). The finish quality is definitely better in a Gibson than an Epi - though once again that is narrowing. I have a new Epi G400 SG that looks and feels nicer and has much better tuners than my 2011 Gibson SG - though the Gibson wins for having a rosewood fretboard and better pickups. But no Epi LP (at least that I've owned - and I've owned about 10) compares to my Gibson Standards.
So im guessing this is the Tusq #PQ6060-00?
Very helpful , thanks !
good video...thanks for not playing music over it
Ha I use elmers to, just a tiny bit and I let it dry. Mainly just so it don’t move while I’m stringing it. The tension of the strings will hold the nut in place. At least that’s the theory I’m sticking with
Has it made a difference in the sound or the tuning stability?
@@nogripes that sucks, my Epiphone Zakk Wylde won't stay in tune and was hoping this would help
@@theophany1770 It still may help yours. His plastic nut may have been cut better than yours. I'm having tuning trouble mostly on my G string. When I turn the tuner, I can hear little metallic tinking noise. The dude at GC said that the string is catching on the nut. I believe him. I'm watching this video so I can try it out. Nut and locking tuners are both said to help.
Evening fellow Mainiac, well got my new Tusq XL nut from Sweetwater, been holding off installing it and going to attempt installing it in place of the plastic nut that is on it this weekend. Really hoping it makes a big difference. Concerned about having to maybe filing out the grooves . Wish me luck. :)
@@nogripes Thank you. Yes Mark, they throw in a nice bag on every order. Pretty good too. :) I do all my musical order stuff from Sweetwater, if you buy a guitar from them, they set it up completely before you get it. Its called a 50 pt. inspection.
@@nogripes Installed the new Tusq nut and it went smooth, and I did not have to file out the string grooves either. I can hear the difference already. Cleaned the fretboard, installed new strings, checked string height and pickup height and tuned and set intonation.
@@nogripes I totally agree Mark, hopefully I can bring it up to par with next is a bridge and saddle upgrade. For example PRS makes the CE models and the SE models are their more inexpensive models, but the overall craftsmanship is still outstanding on them. Paul wouldn't have it any other way. My next guitar is a Pauls Guitar SE. (www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SEPGFI--prs-se-pauls-guitar-fire-red) If my better half allows it to happen. You have a great Sunday as well bro.
@The Guitar Geezer the key is to get similar looking guitars...when the wife questions it, you say, “That old thing? You’ve seen me playing that a million times!”
@@jeremymcclellan2550 Right on Jeremy. :)
Do not use wood glue to fix the saddle! It remains too elastic after drying. This absorbs the transmission of the vibrations to the wood. For something like this, you should use a glue that becomes very hard and that can also be easily removed again, as you may want to replace a saddle from time to time. My guitar maker only uses superglue for this.
just regular old super glue works best you're saying? Going to be trying this on my SG special soon.
DO use wood glue that's what it's for and unless it's an acoustic guitar anything about tone wood or "transmissions of the sonic vibrations" goes out of the window, it's a bunch of marketing garbage anyway. I assume you mean the nut when you say "saddle" right? You know this is an ELECTRONIC guitar, right?
@@dr.slump5582 *electric guitar lmao but aside from that good dunk on that boy
Yeah... But a very scarce dose of super glue for that job, I would suggest.
The classic guitar builders, like in other string instruments do not recommend using glue or, at least, as less glue as you can...
The nut in a violin or in a classic guitar should fit its gap and should stay in place by its own preassure.
What size strings will go in those precut slots? What if I want to put some larger strings for drop tuning, like a 10-52 set? Will I now have to file the slots??
10-52 is not really a thick string set. 52's will fit these nuts just fine.
What really affects the stability of your strings is the overall set up. Just take ti to your local Louie and have him set it up. Remember that if you play with a drop tune, the entire guitar has to be set up for it anyway. Otherwise your intonation will be crap, you run the risk of twisting your neck and overall playability just suffers.
Do you have a link that shows the string height at the first fret?
Question- The string slot for the low E (or any string for that matter)... how wide shoild they be..? Should they be just wide enough for the string or wide enough to slide the string back and forth?
very good did you not have to do anything with the slots ?were they cut perfect for the guage you ordered and not bind? thank you regards Stephen
with that measures from graphtech did the notes on the first frets play sharper ?
Looks too low
The factory's over seas are really upping their game. Check out Eastman acoustic guitars, really nice. I play a Mapex Saturn drum kit, totally awesome drums. It is easier to turn over big name brands on ebay, but the quality of the import stuff is getting quite good. Back in the 60's when I was a kid my mom used to tell me "Made in Japan " was junk, now I can't afford it, it's a new world order
Very helpful
Super glue, two small drops, is much better to use as it spreads out better under the nut. Thicker glue, like the white glue used here and wood glue is too lumpy and can result in an uneven nut. Also wood glue will leave a terrible mess when the nut is removed again. You will have to clean out the pocket and it can take extra wood with it which is even worse.
I just did mine...Even though I used the razor to score it, it chipped off a very small amount of paint...Any suggestions to fix it? It's white colored with a glossy finish...Maybe white out just to cover it up? It's super tiny, like a hair, but I will notice it.
i have just changed the nut on my epiphone les paul standard for the exact same tusq nut you used. everything fits extremely well, I didnt have to sand down the nut a lot. but now that I have put the stringa back on I get a buzz when I strumm the open strings. It happens with all strings but the high E is the most notable. do you (or anyone else) have any idea what the case is here?
by the way I haven't applied the glue yet, i just put the nut in without glue to test
Might be that the nut was sanded too low
Where did you get that night and does it work swapping out or not on any guitar thanks
My stock Epiphone Nighthawk nut seems a lot lower than that of your Les Paul, I think that is the cause of the issues I'm having hence I cannot use my stock nut as a guide to make another, how would you recommend I go about a nut replacement?
Have a 1971 Goya by Martin G301 Acoustic Guitar w/missing nut (very nice guitar). Can't seem to find the correct replacement size. I measure it as 43.xx mm X 7mm flat bottom. Any recommendations? I guess I could always buy the closest match and re-position my truss rod cover to cover gap??? Frustrating not to be able to find one to match. Seems to me that 6.0mm is a big difference and will look bad.
+Tricko Try Guitarsaddles.com He will make anything you want out of several different materials. He made me one for my Seagull S6. I had to size it a bit and then cut the string slots but not to hard. Good luck
Did you file each nut slot or does this particular nut ship with the proper depth for each string?
I've been trying to get that answer for days. All of these videos skip over the specs. Since their instructions say use .010 and .006, I'm assuming the slot depths are graduated. But I need to know for certain.
I know this is two years old but where can I find these online I can only find the black ones
what year is this epiphone? I'm looking for a nut for my 2003 epiphone les paul standard, but can't find one wide enough
Good stuff. Thanks for the 1-2
I put one in yesterday but the high E and B string sound buzzy. They are not hitting the first fret either. What do you think ? Slots too deep ?
Great job, thanks. I have a project guitar that I'm using to get to know how to tech it myself. What was the name of that measuring tool you used to measure the distance between the string and the fret?
Feeler gauge
Fret Buzz! Hello, I did this exactly as done in this video. I have a question to anyone that can help please!!! Filed it perfectly flat so that is a non issue. I reset the action to factory default (quite high). The neck has the factory default relief and it has sat for a week or two so it is well settled. Also brand new strings d'addario 10's. I am getting a deep fret buzz when pressing down the first fret of the Low E and a little bit on the A. The E is pretty bad. Epiphone Les Paul Custom with no damage.
Tony P. Okay, then your nut is too low. You have to a ask that?
Nut too low? Neck not straight?
mark what is the reason you frett the 3 rd frett when you check the cleareans
+Dan Shewell at dan.shewell@yahoo com
Which kind of glue is best for nut?
I wonder if using a ceramic nut would work, as glass is a natural conductor of sound... just a thought....
Thanks for a great video! What did you call that instrument you used measuring the fret height?
Henric Oscarsson feeler gauge. I got mine from a car parts/tools shop.
How do you now what size nut to buy? I have a 80's era Japanese made SG copy, do I just measure the nut that is on the guitar? Thanks!
Measure the length, width, and height of the nut on your guitar. Go to the Graphtech website and match your measurements to one of their products, then (like I did) order that nut from Amazon. I had to buy one for my Gibson LP and my Jackson Dinky. Fairly easy to do if you have at least a ruler to measure mm.
@@RobWIII Thank you!
You're welcome. I would figure an Epi or Gibson style graphtech will work, but you never know.
I had one lesson on my Fender Stratocaster 11 years ago and finally took it out to learn with my Nephew who is getting a set for Christmas. What I want to do is take mine, and his, to a Luthier to have setup but I want my nut (needs replacing) to be replaced with this but how do I know it is the real deal as the Luthier could stick a turd on there and I have no idea if legit or not?
Why would you change the nut on a guitar you played a few times 11 years ago?
Anyway, just buy the nut of your choice and take it to your Louie. Most are not interested in ripping you off, they are interested in you coming back.
@@AB-80X It was actually 16 years ago and I replaced the nut myself with a TusQXL. I also redid the frets myself. Fuck louies they all suck, at least around here, and prices from hell too. 80 dollars minimum at most and one is 65. For a nut job expect 120 USD in my city PER every single one I called. I finally said fuck it, and them, and if I tear this sob up then so be it.
Are those Slash AP II pickups?
Would this nut be good to use on my Epiphone Les Paul Special II?
Yes. The Tusq nut package will state the size and actually says for Epiphone on the back.
Did you hear a difference in sound comparing with the old nut?
NO I did not hear a difference!( he replaced a bone nut with a bone nut)..lol
to me tusk is almost bone ?
can i use the tusq xl on an acoustic guitar or just regular tusq?
+Googlegenius you can use either
Thanks for sharing!
I didn't go through all the comments, but has anyone mentioned how bad your frets are? When you were dropping them on your neck, you could see the dents pretty clearly.
did you changed them?
No sound check ?
Did you have to file the nut slots at all, or were they pretty good as they were?
That's good to know. Thanks
The nut on my Strat style guitar is similar to this. It sits at the very beginning of the fretboard instead of in a slot on the fretboard like you find on real Strats.
The only thing is that I don't think there's any sort of relief cut for the nut so it basically just sits there, it appears. Obviously it's going to be replaceable, I'm just not sure what I'd replace it with. I guess I need to pull it, measure it, and see if anyone offers one that can be modified to fit.
Graph tech has them. Most Modern fender guitars are 42mm. Some maybe 43mm. You can sand the bottle of it on the 3rd fret to fit the radius.
put a slab of wood under the sandpaper to have a flat surface to sand on... Nut slots will have to be cut to deepen them and give a correct nut slot depth. Best done by a pro and not a guy who cannot do it (which he cannot) except with nut slot files.
you should show you playing it
I still have her....
I didn't do any sanding I just researched for the TusQ that was slotted for 1/2 Epiphone and when I compared the old and new the matched perfect except the old plastic one was chipped on the top E string but the other side "G" matched perfect. I need to get it looked at but I just had it restored from a buddy. Do you think the company is that good to have it perfect without sanding? I didn't glue it yet... It almost seemed to snug right into place.
***** I call it a Dumpster Les Paul. I say dumpster because someone was throwing it away but it was completely stripped no wires one of the tuners was missing. I had a friend completely rewire it to early vintage wiring spec. I had another friend give me some mightymite pick ups. It had no bridge so I got that at a used guitar shop from a guy who did a new install. So I put about 300 dollars in parts and labor including the Ephipone case for 87.00. The number on the back of the guitar shows it was made in 97 in Samick but I am not 100% on this the code is 97S223855 (not sure of the last 4 numbers guitar is not in front of me) So that would be a 97 made in Feb. but then 5 digits means it was over 20000 of them made in 97 at that plant in Korea. I have put the serial number in search engines to generate it but it will not come up as a good number. I can't believe that someone would throw this guitar away. It plays really good according to all my guitar players I show it too. In fact my guitar player ended up trading his old fernadz for a Ephip 2014 Les Paul that I guy traded cause an x gf gave it to him for Christmas. It is a very pretty guitar.
*****
The package for the nut said TUSQ PQ-6060-00 TuSQ Nut Slotted 1/4" Epiphone L1 3/4 w1/4 h3/8 graphtech.com Made in Canada Not an XL
Left Wing Fascists Moaning Lisas
graphtech.com/products/brands/tusq/product-detail/pq-6060-00-tusq-nut-slotted-epiphone-style-1-4-?id=6268b557-736e-40d1-8ca7-24c7be50ba3a
It is not an XL though but I think it sounds really good
Wow ! The frets need work, they are indented .
Mix the glue 50/50 with water for a reduced strength . easy to knock out next time
There is a youtube review of Gibson vs Epi LP's by Anderton Music. The reviewers were shocked as they came to the "sustain" test of the guitars and to their astonishment the Epi locked on to the note with glorious harmonic overtone and sustain and literally would not stop ringing....go figure
Buddy, you need a refret lmao. I can see the grooves. Some people like that, though. I can't even stand when the tops of mine square off haha.
@@nogripes man. It's funny how impatient your reply makes me feel haha. I refretted my les paul about a year ago with extra jumbos. Yeah, the 3.0mm ones. Anyhow, weren't stainless frets, so within a year I'm already having frets choke out and having to raise my action. How people go years without fret dressings escapes me. Oh well, got some stainless fretwire in the mail. Doing the frets and binding.
@@nogripes as well as a graphtech tusq xl nut. Hoping that combined with upgrading the tuners with a set of grover deluxes I had lying around gives it more tuning stability.
The slots need to be cut for each string.
Holly moley batman i was not expecting to see the trussrod onder the nut..
But i guess that normal for those geeetars..
open E and A are giving me fret buzz when tuning on brand new epiphone -- i guess this means a warranty issue? either raise the nut or the bridge to stop the buzz? what a bugger
Before you do any of that I recommend you try adjusting the truss rod. Sometimes all you really need is to put a little relief in the neck.
If relief and string action are set correctly, you likely have an incorrectly cut nut, which is cause the strings to buzz at the first fret. Your choices are shimming the old nut, or installing a new one. A new nut is the best option, IMO.
thanks
Hope you are going to fix those nasty frets.
Warning an Epi trad pro has a wider nut. Just sayin
those frets are worn out for three years lol
.010...Ten thousand not 1-100th ... .006....six thousand not 6- 1-100 th
That must have took a month of Sundays to sand that thing to height.
Those frets look toasted
Well i guess this is the job how its done on epiphone lol.
Intonation, first fret action and those slots angled?
this looks so easy to do...but it's not...guess im going to a pro...thnx for vid...
Yeah, go to a pro. Just don't forget your wallet. This is an easy job.
This is not as easy on a PRS SE; the nut is glued like HELL.
I just changed mine on my singlecut SE from 2007. Had to let the glue cure overnight, since there really isn't a solid channel for the nut to rest in without any adhesive during the fitting process, as it'll pop out when tightening the strings. Unfortunately I think I sanded too much off, because I'm still having high action even with the bridge dropped. Checking the neck relief seems to be right as well.
It was a good first time experience though! Better than paying $70+ at a guitar shop.
Those are some deep fret dents
***** I have an old takamine( my baby) she has worn frets but it scares me to attempt to do a fret job ..the tang has to be trimmed at both ends! what dimention of fret wire to buy and with new frets a new nut I guess?
loadi2 one reason I like Fender style guitars, bolt on neck, Mighty Mite has some great necks at good value; dont have to level frets, redress etc, just replace the neck for $105
Mark Jenkins ITS A EPIPIHONE THANG. IF IT DOMT HAVE FRET DENTS IT AINT GROOVIN HAHA
looks like too much glue for me..
He fretted at fret 2 and said fret 3, which is the correct one to do the " 3rd fret test ". He made a mistake that should have been edited out. The '3rd fret test' means fret on the 3rd fret and check the string gap over the 1st and second frets. It's not a '2nd fret test'.
***** You depress the string between the 2nd and 3rd fret wires so that part of the the string toward the nut/headstock is sitting on the 2nd fret wire while you measure the height of the string above the 1st fret wire. You could free up a hand by using a lightly applied capo to do the fretting.
There isn't a need to worry about putting the guitar in playing position to measure so long as the neck is supported in the middle as the headstock isn't heavy enough and the lever arm from the 7th fret or so isn't long enough to affect the measurement against the 85-100lb pull of the strings.
+blackdogxx He fretted the third fret so the string would bridge the nut and 2nd fret and he could measure the 1st fret string action. He did that so and other setup variables wouldn't effect his measurement.
too much glue. A few drops of paper glue will do the trick
both those nuts where made of the same stuff...lol
loadi2 Not even close
Thats called the guitar neck bone not the nut, the nut is on the rod in the neck, two totally different things dude
hhhhmmmm.... thanks for your input... interesting... very interesting!
Ty for video!