I've got a bunch of Epiphones, an SG G400 Pro 1966 edition, ES 339, LP Custom Pro and my favorite, a LP 1960 Tribute Plus in Vintageburst like the one you are working on. Love them all, but replacing the cheap nuts are a must!
I`m just more than halfway through my cancer treatments at the Proton Center in Jacksonville FL. its in my right side of my head in a lymph node. cant hardly eat or swallow, my mouth feels like its got roof burn and strep throat. you asked how we are doing, well this is me. good job Dave. I like these videos.
I just want to thank you for making your knowledge available. It's been really helpful when it comes to doing my own guitar set up and work. So thanks.
@@spiderfan1974 how so? It's just a matter of measuring and sanding to height, isn't it? Figure out string height at the first fret as-is with the new nut before touching it. Know what string height you want. Take whatever the difference is off the bottom of the nut and there's your string height. Then shape to size on the other dimensions and install. Unless I'm missing something, it's not really that difficult. *Edited to add:* Or did you mean doing an entire nut from a blank? That's out of my league there 😆 I don't have the tools but I'm sure I could learn to do it. Cutting the string slots seems like it'd be the most difficult part. So Is there a spec for how deep the slots should be based on string or slot width or anything? Or is it basically just an arbitrary number of your choice that's still deep enough to hold the string without it popping out? I actually just bought a Graph Tech Tusq XL that's a little proud on every dimension vs my current nut so I'll have to sand it to proper dimensions on length and width and check it for string height, then adjust from there I hope. They don't make a nut for my specific Strat clone so I bought the closest thing to it, which was only a couple thousandths different in all dimensions. It uses an Epiphone-style nut at the beginning of the fretboard so, ironically, that's what I ended up getting to replace it. Same exact shape and everything. I'm sure it'll be a headache-free swap.
@@J__C__ you want that string sitting inside of said nut the right way though. Do it wrong good luck staying in tune. There is no putting material back onto the nut. Resoldering because the wires got crossed easy peasy.
@@spiderfan1974 yes luckily I bought the pre-cut nut so hopefully all I have to do is sand it down to proper height/length/width and install. I can easily see how you could screw up the slots, though. Even watching the StewMac vid where they explain it all makes it seem a little more difficult than the rest of it.
I popped the plastic nut from my Korean strat and replaced it with a zero fret and a piece of wood behind the fret to hinder lateral movement. The fret I bought from thomann.de and the wood piece is a bit of dry spruce I had lying around. The fret is a couple 10-fraction millimeters higher than the first fret. No filing or anything, perfect at once and a good tone.
Probably the same reason I did. Bone sounds and resonates better and the roller saddles helps in tuning and you get more string to saddle contact then you do with the sharp knife point on the original saddles. It was a huge improvement in tone.
@@offbeatbassgear if you have never had a soldering iron in your hands before, like ever, you probably should let someone else do that work or practice first ;)
Can someone please help me, I couldn’t help but notice that Dave used the manufacture specs for action height(5/64 & 3/64) but didn’t use the manufacturer specs for nut string height ( 2/64 Low E & 1/64 High E). Any ideas? According to Epiphone .018 doesn’t cut it for Low E string nut height
Hi Dave. Cheers for the informative videos! However, I can not intonate my LP. Believe me, I've tried... I've moved the saddles to where it's perfectly intonated. When in tune, if I fret a note on the 1st fret, it's sharp?? The nut slots are as low as I can go. Is the nut too far forward (close to the bridge)? Should I move the nut/file it back? Thanks
@@dnottis Actually, I think it is a photo (hence the industry term "photo" or "foto" flame). That's certainly what the Epiphone reps told us when I worked in instrument retail back in the day. 2 easy ways to find out: move it under the light and the grain won't respond the way real finished maple would, or just wait a few years until the picture/vinyl/contact paper/whatever it is starts to peel, which many of them do.
It's most probably veneer. Sticker tops aren't popular nowadays. Rarely some high end Epiphones have a non-figured thick maple cap under figured maple veneer, most figured top ones is just veneer over whatever mahogany-like wood they're made of. Yes it all does make tonal difference if the bridge and tailpiece are actually held by a chunk of hard maple or not. There were some very close Gibson/Epiphone counterpart models (some Slash sigs etc.) where the high end Epi is made with "Epiphone wood Gibson everything else" or "factory gibsonized" philosophy: bridge, pickups, nut, even pots/caps is same as the Gibson, and Epiphones are always muddier than a Gibson in a side by side comparison.
Your welcome regarding the Brass P/up height tool. I'm glad your using them and not as a nose picker as you once suggested hee hee. I bought yours and a set for me from a Luthier guy in England. If Stu/Sak are selling them then maybe they copied that guys idea or maybe he sold the idea to them or maybe he just maybe and did the haybe from eating tooo much gravey...... hee hee sorry got carried away. Thanks for your Vids Cobba....
I just put new tuners on my Les Paul Jr. and less than a week later I gotta prepare to do this . The low E end broke off . Hey , I'm modding the guitar anyway right ? PEACE
Hey Dave, did you have to file the nut slots on the Tusq nut at all? I suppose it depends what gauge of string you want to install, do you think 9's to 10's are a safe bet? Cheers!
Its a shame we can't hear it. It looks like the person who owns it wanted you to finish it up, new switch and whatever else. Other than that, the classic finish looks great, like an old 59.
Hey Dave! I need some help, my truss rod nut and my hex key does, unfortunately, do no grip each other. I took it my local guitar shop for an evaluation of repair cost but he just referred me to the local tech. is there a way to save a truss rod that's been worn out? Have a nice day! :)
If all else fails, a lot of machinists & mechanics will sometimes be able to get a hex wrench to grip a worn fastener by jamming a bunch of steel wool in there and gradually forcing the wrench until it's as deep as it can get. Another way would be to use a wrench a size too large, then filing and/or grinding on the business end of the wrench until it'll just fit. Things may go smoother, if you can force a tiny amount of backbow into the neck so the tension rod will loosen somewhat. If a nut is cold-fused to the rod from ages of being ignored, you may need to break it loose by applying torque in both directions. If you can get the nut off the end of the rod, you can then install a new one, and mail the old one to Dave for his approval. Hope this helps.
hopefully the owner has the wiring already run thru to its needed location's so he doesn't have to remove a set of new strings. prob waiting on new pots and selector switch.
There is no strict number...you have to like what you hear. You match them in volume and than you go from there. Let's say you had a suggested distance for the pickups...for what strings? For what playing style? How is your ear canal shaped? Are the pickups active or passive? What may sound good at home might not work on stage. There is no simple answer. Measure the height you have now, and then adjust to your hearts content. To get an idea...search for "Lindy Fralin how to set pickup height".
@@onpsxmember thank you.. I just wanted a starting point - factory setting to work off of... thought dave would tell me what he set them at with the gadget he has...
@@godwillhunting2 Just go to stewmac DOT com, search for pickup height gauge and write down the gauges. Than you go to your local hardware store, buy brass tubing in those diameters, bend it and you got your tool as cheap as possible. 1/8, 3/32, 1/16, 1/32.
I dont know everything about guitars but that one seems to be lacking a few electronical parts...lol..otherwise nice looking guitar, looks like at least a seymour duncan in the neck..
The pickups both read Seymour Duncan...And he talked about the electronics in the video too..He said that the owner said that he would do the electronics himself.
I've got a bunch of Epiphones, an SG G400 Pro 1966 edition, ES 339, LP Custom Pro and my favorite, a LP 1960 Tribute Plus in Vintageburst like the one you are working on. Love them all, but replacing the cheap nuts are a must!
I`m just more than halfway through my cancer treatments at the Proton Center in Jacksonville FL. its in my right side of my head in a lymph node. cant hardly eat or swallow, my mouth feels like its got roof burn and strep throat. you asked how we are doing, well this is me. good job Dave. I like these videos.
I just want to thank you for making your knowledge available. It's been really helpful when it comes to doing my own guitar set up and work. So thanks.
Wow abrasive cord. You learn something new every day
Clever, interesting, fun intro sequences!
Thanks Dave, this was helpful; I'm considering replacing the nut on my Epi Black Beauty with a Tusq nut.
Those Epiphones are pretty sweet.
I always learn something- thanks!
Me too !
Great video!
Looks like you didn’t want to delve into those electronics...missing selector switch, who knows what else or why.
If he does I predict a sequel...lol
@@TheFULLMETALCHEF wiring a guitar isn't rocket science. Now cutting a nut properly that takes a little know how.
@@spiderfan1974 how so? It's just a matter of measuring and sanding to height, isn't it? Figure out string height at the first fret as-is with the new nut before touching it. Know what string height you want. Take whatever the difference is off the bottom of the nut and there's your string height. Then shape to size on the other dimensions and install. Unless I'm missing something, it's not really that difficult.
*Edited to add:* Or did you mean doing an entire nut from a blank? That's out of my league there 😆 I don't have the tools but I'm sure I could learn to do it. Cutting the string slots seems like it'd be the most difficult part.
So Is there a spec for how deep the slots should be based on string or slot width or anything? Or is it basically just an arbitrary number of your choice that's still deep enough to hold the string without it popping out?
I actually just bought a Graph Tech Tusq XL that's a little proud on every dimension vs my current nut so I'll have to sand it to proper dimensions on length and width and check it for string height, then adjust from there I hope.
They don't make a nut for my specific Strat clone so I bought the closest thing to it, which was only a couple thousandths different in all dimensions. It uses an Epiphone-style nut at the beginning of the fretboard so, ironically, that's what I ended up getting to replace it. Same exact shape and everything. I'm sure it'll be a headache-free swap.
@@J__C__ you want that string sitting inside of said nut the right way though. Do it wrong good luck staying in tune. There is no putting material back onto the nut. Resoldering because the wires got crossed easy peasy.
@@spiderfan1974 yes luckily I bought the pre-cut nut so hopefully all I have to do is sand it down to proper height/length/width and install.
I can easily see how you could screw up the slots, though. Even watching the StewMac vid where they explain it all makes it seem a little more difficult than the rest of it.
I put one on my Epi LP many years ago, one of the best mods I did to it next to the pick up swap
I popped the plastic nut from my Korean strat and replaced it with a zero fret and a piece of wood behind the fret to hinder lateral movement. The fret I bought from thomann.de and the wood piece is a bit of dry spruce I had lying around. The fret is a couple 10-fraction millimeters higher than the first fret. No filing or anything, perfect at once and a good tone.
i put a bone nut on mine and swapped out the bridge with a roller bridge.
why-
Probably the same reason I did. Bone sounds and resonates better and the roller saddles helps in tuning and you get more string to saddle contact then you do with the sharp knife point on the original saddles. It was a huge improvement in tone.
@@Edward681 Thanks, I just bought a roller for my Black Beauty Epi and just didn't know how much of a difference it would make for maintaining tuning.
@@offbeatbassgear if you have never had a soldering iron in your hands before, like ever, you probably should let someone else do that work or practice first ;)
Hey Dave, how bout a list of tools and where to buy them?
Been buying some from Lee Valley, but damn is it expensive.
hi Dave ! What is the clip on gadget you used when tuning? Great video Thanks
Which one?
Beautiful top on that Epi
Beautiful guitar. My wife bought the Gibson Traditional version for my anniversary. Great work Dave!
You're stomach is hungry Dave!
That's a real looker of an Epi
I was thinkin' the same thing
Yay! It is straight
nice tips, thanks Dave
Can someone please help me, I couldn’t help but notice that Dave used the manufacture specs for action height(5/64 & 3/64) but didn’t use the manufacturer specs for nut string height ( 2/64 Low E & 1/64 High E). Any ideas? According to Epiphone .018 doesn’t cut it for Low E string nut height
Hi Dave. Cheers for the informative videos! However, I can not intonate my LP. Believe me, I've tried... I've moved the saddles to where it's perfectly intonated. When in tune, if I fret a note on the 1st fret, it's sharp?? The nut slots are as low as I can go. Is the nut too far forward (close to the bridge)? Should I move the nut/file it back? Thanks
Sounded like falling piece of plastic second time, tusq chummy rang
Nice top on that axe!
It's a picture.
@@failuremagnet yeah, and still noone cares and has no tonal adv ;)
@@failuremagnet not a picture but a veneer so it's super thin.
@@dnottis Actually, I think it is a photo (hence the industry term "photo" or "foto" flame). That's certainly what the Epiphone reps told us when I worked in instrument retail back in the day. 2 easy ways to find out: move it under the light and the grain won't respond the way real finished maple would, or just wait a few years until the picture/vinyl/contact paper/whatever it is starts to peel, which many of them do.
It's most probably veneer. Sticker tops aren't popular nowadays. Rarely some high end Epiphones have a non-figured thick maple cap under figured maple veneer, most figured top ones is just veneer over whatever mahogany-like wood they're made of. Yes it all does make tonal difference if the bridge and tailpiece are actually held by a chunk of hard maple or not. There were some very close Gibson/Epiphone counterpart models (some Slash sigs etc.) where the high end Epi is made with "Epiphone wood Gibson everything else" or "factory gibsonized" philosophy: bridge, pickups, nut, even pots/caps is same as the Gibson, and Epiphones are always muddier than a Gibson in a side by side comparison.
Your welcome regarding the Brass P/up height tool. I'm glad your using them and not as a nose picker as you once suggested hee hee. I bought yours and a set for me from a Luthier guy in England. If Stu/Sak are selling them then maybe they copied that guys idea or maybe he sold the idea to them or maybe he just maybe and did the haybe from eating tooo much gravey...... hee hee sorry got carried away. Thanks for your Vids Cobba....
Why not buy a set of nut/saddle files? $5 on Amazon.
I just put new tuners on my Les Paul Jr. and less than a week later I gotta prepare to do this . The low E end broke off . Hey , I'm modding the guitar anyway right ? PEACE
Hey Dave, are those newer epiphone lp's any good? Keep reading how bad the Gibson's have gotten are the epi's worse. Thanks
No, they're actually better. (Epiphone)
I allways end up hungry from watching Dave´s videos. Maybe there is a subliminal message hidden somewhere in plain sight. ☺
Dave ... how many guitar's do you work on annually? ... You make it all look easy ...
Hey do you get a kick back on the Coffee Mugs... Coz I'll buy one Cobba if you do :)
Oh, and a kids school glue stick is great for things you don't want to be permanent.
Nice looking guitar!
England? 3M is based in Minnesota. Am I missing something?
The pads are made in England Sean, strange as it may seem ;)
@@DavesWorldofFunStuff True, but in fact, "3M" means, "Minnesota Mining & Manufacturing". Hey, I live here, and it's practically Canada.
@@DavesWorldofFunStuff I might add that BIC is based out of France. So, there's that.
@@gr328 Did not know that! I live about ten minutes from their HQ, so I see that logo everywhere
I'm just a squirrel trying to get a nut.
Hey Dave, did you have to file the nut slots on the Tusq nut at all? I suppose it depends what gauge of string you want to install, do you think 9's to 10's are a safe bet? Cheers!
Lupocide apparently he didn’t. He purchased one of those that come pre-slotted.
What are your thoughts about raising the tailpiece to decrease the break angle behind the bridge?
Dave what about the pickup selector
Yeah , wherezit ?
Why no pick up switch
Because, like the man said, the owner was replacing the electronics, which is why it couldn't be played.
Dave what ya think about brass nut??? thanks
wish I still had mine.
Still won't be able to tune the dang thing.
Its a shame we can't hear it. It looks like the person who owns it wanted you to finish it up, new switch and whatever else. Other than that, the classic finish looks great, like an old 59.
Hey Dave! I need some help, my truss rod nut and my hex key does, unfortunately, do no grip each other. I took it my local guitar shop for an evaluation of repair cost but he just referred me to the local tech. is there a way to save a truss rod that's been worn out? Have a nice day! :)
If all else fails, a lot of machinists & mechanics will sometimes be able to get a hex wrench to grip a worn fastener by jamming a bunch of steel wool in there and gradually forcing the wrench until it's as deep as it can get. Another way would be to use a wrench a size too large, then filing and/or grinding on the business end of the wrench until it'll just fit. Things may go smoother, if you can force a tiny amount of backbow into the neck so the tension rod will loosen somewhat. If a nut is cold-fused to the rod from ages of being ignored, you may need to break it loose by applying torque in both directions. If you can get the nut off the end of the rod, you can then install a new one, and mail the old one to Dave for his approval. Hope this helps.
Is that just a set of chainsaw files you were using to fix the saddles?
What do the different noises from the tusq and plastic nut mean?
A measurement of the resonance of the different materials.
hopefully the owner has the wiring already run thru to its needed location's so he doesn't have to remove a set of new strings. prob waiting on new pots and selector switch.
Nice :)
With my luck if I tried the nut test the thing would chip.
what are the pickup heights supposed to be for this guitar ?
There is no strict number...you have to like what you hear.
You match them in volume and than you go from there.
Let's say you had a suggested distance for the pickups...for what strings? For what playing style? How is your ear canal shaped? Are the pickups active or passive?
What may sound good at home might not work on stage. There is no simple answer.
Measure the height you have now, and then adjust to your hearts content.
To get an idea...search for "Lindy Fralin how to set pickup height".
@@onpsxmember thank you.. I just wanted a starting point - factory setting to work off of... thought dave would tell me what he set them at with the gadget he has...
@@godwillhunting2
Just go to stewmac DOT com, search for pickup height gauge and write down the gauges. Than you go to your local hardware store, buy brass tubing in those diameters, bend it and you got your tool as cheap as possible. 1/8, 3/32, 1/16, 1/32.
Love roll'n a fatty and learn'n bout Geeitars from Uncle Dave, he's a beauty!
I dont know everything about guitars but that one seems to be lacking a few electronical parts...lol..otherwise nice looking guitar, looks like at least a seymour duncan in the neck..
The pickups both read Seymour Duncan...And he talked about the electronics in the video too..He said that the owner said that he would do the electronics himself.
But where's the Kadoodle, There should be a Kadoodle!
Buy a block of wood for 20 bucks...lol
You stole tape from work? You thief!