Right Guys. My mistake. Urgent Update. The rear shocks torque setting is 45Nm not 18Nm as stated in this video. My mistake. My apologies.🙏 Urgent Update - Meteor 650 rear shock Torque settings th-cam.com/video/4aenaS_tAKQ/w-d-xo.html
As an Indian, I can assure that 90 percent of incidents like frame collapse, shocks failure etc mechanical issues happended due to poor installation of accessories or not following torque settings. Average Indian or mechanics are even unaware that😅 there is something called torque settings exist especially for critical joints
Mmmm. The only video I received a lot of hate and ridicule from. Still to this day. All the reviews are done. I think I’m one of the only few that highlight the side stand issue. I’ve decided it will never be a bike for me. And will avoid at costs from now on 😂🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand Abhinav Bhatt posted a video in which he talks about the side stand issue with the chief designer of RE 450. I think people are more unhappy about the title of the video which is different from the content of the video(I don't know if you agree with me but the title of the video was too much clickbaity, and your viewers do not expect this from you.) I don't think the majority of the viewers are unhappy with the content of the video. Maybe you can give another shot with Himalayan 450 as last time you have limited time and other factors which restrict your experience. If you are unable to compile a good video then don't post it.
@@hellfire8395 Thanks again. I did retitle the video to ‘My Epic Fail’. Because that’s what is was. Maybe be I change the title and thumb nail to side stand issue? I did see that video. I’ve also seen lots of videos where people fall off the bike at low speeds, with miss footing and the top weight of the bike. Something I was not prepared or could afford to do on a brand new bike. I was more excited to see the display more than anything else. A great bike for the right sized rider for sure. I just hope Royal Enfield invite me to the press launch of the Classic 650. That is a bike I’m really looking forward to ride and review. Sadly in Thailand we are so far behind with launch dates. Yesterday I went on the 365 days of pure cruising event. I see this happened in India 5 months ago. 😂🙏
Hello Mr. T, I want to thank you for investigating this incident. You have brought out some important points which I could not cover. Overtorque on suspension bolt looks the mostly likely cause here. Btw, I was riding solo, without any pannier bags, when this happened, but yes this was months in the making. I’m 105kgs and ive never changed the preload settings, it’s the same that came as stock. You suggest I should move this to 2 or 3? Let me know. Excellent video as always 😊
Thank you also. I know you were solo when the incident happened. But it’s had times with you both riding, with saddle bags loaded. And 100% over weight for Pre load 1. Some owners run at 4 or 5. It sounds crazy. But raising the preload makes the ride softer, Opposite to what you think. With your weight I recommend 3 setting minimum. Safe riding my friend 👌🙏
Hi Teacher T. In my opinion, the standard RE shocks are very poor, both in function and design. They are made to a budget and that is obvious in how they perform. As you know from our FB page I’ve changed to Hagons, and have now fitted YSS shocks. The YSS shocks are streets ahead in every way. As for the mounting bolts, they are indeed 17Nm and if overtightened they will clamp the forked mountings and prevent the pivoting that must be allowed to take place. There are too many people out there carrying out work on their bikes without the slightest clue about torque loadings and their importance. That classic refrain “I’m old school and just tighten it as much as I can” is as dangerous as it is ridiculous. I have the Hepco and Becker C-Bow pannier system, precisely because they do not mount on the top shock mounting. I have also moved the lifting handle to the larger hole so it is also not mounted on the shock, and removed it altogether on the other side. As an ex aircraft engineer and technical author I was not happy to mount anything to the shock absorber mounts, as it is a critical component and a critical part of the structure. The failure modes here are potentially catastrophic and if this was an aircraft would require special fitting instructions/ warnings and preventative maintenance, such as schedule torque checks on the bolts, and crack inspections on the mountings. One last point, if you look at the Hagon fitting instructions they also recommend the fitting of a flat washer, on each side, between the shock and the bracket, this also facilitates that pivoting that you need. I phoned them about this and they said it was a recommendation only, not a requirement. Let’s hope people think twice about tightening bolts to three white knuckles and a guess, it’s not worth it.
@@Teacher-T-Thailand Agree 100% with your observations on the reason that the shocks failed and the preload settings. Like so many others, I road off from the dealership with the shocks set at level #1 - terrible. Set to #3, but would still bottom too frequently with my body weight, gear and saddlebags total of around 185 pounds, 84 Kg. Setting #4 seemed adequate for a couple of thousand miles, but the original shocks springs just don’t hold up. I’m now at setting #5 with 6500 miles on the bike and the ride is acceptable. Once the springs turn to spaghetti at this highest setting I will be forced to replace them. Then comes the question of which replacement shocks, YSS or the lower priced Hagon?
@@EWAScotland thanks Ev. I see the model YSS you have fitted are even longer than the originals? That would be a problem for me and my short legs. But more travel would produce a better ride. Yes the originals are not fit for purpose in my opinion. RE really should stop fitting them. £45 retail says it all. Safe riding Eva. It was your comment on my saddlebag video, that prompted this video 😂🙏
An excellent and timely video. I was alarmed when I first saw the original video from the owner. Your analysis makes perfect sense and by going the extra mile with direct input from the shock manufacturer, you have added full credibility to the explanation and should allay any rider’s fears of owning or modifying this terrific bike.
A few points: 1) There is nothing unusual about the "C" bracket mounting point for the shock. Many bikes use it. 2) I am not familiar with the RE items, but, usually, the suspension unit bush has a crush tube, which is very slightly wider than the rubber part and is intended to be clamped by the mounting. The rubber bush accommodates any movement. The nut and integral washer on the Honda is tightened against the tube, not against the end of the thread. Unless there is a problem with the design or manufacture of the frame, it would not be possible to apply enough torque to actually crush the crush tube and bring the frame into contact with the suspension unit eye. 3) The suspension unit should not fail in normal use, even if it repeatedly hits the bump stop. 4) The arm of the luggage rack is very close to the top of the suspension unit. As the swinging arm rises, the suspension unit has to rotate around the top mount. Is it possible that the rack interfered with the movement of the suspension unit?
Thank you for your response. Even if I over-tighten mine the unit will not move freely as it should. Also Auto Rev has messaged me. He is 118 kg, and sometimes carries a pillion, and luggage. That is well above the 90kg recommended for preload one. And on my first week of owning the bike at 80kg solo, the suspension would break my back almost bottoming out. So this repeated with a non moving shock has certainly caused this. 🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand Curious regarding the shock moving freely on the axis of the top and bottom bolt, I would have thought that having it move freely means the shock can rotate before actually doing its job of controlling the compression when going on undulating surfaces, would a secure shock mean that once installed it will only move in one axis and do its job properly. I also mention this as I have a lift handle (OEM) on the bike which like all Meteor 350's is mounted on the left hand side top bolt for the shock, if this is not tight enough it rotates round, the shock has to be tight in its location for the handle to stay in position. Just my thoughts happy to be corrected, thanks for the videos enjoy them all :)
@@volrider Ahhh it’s not free movement. It’s about 3 to 4 mm of free unrestricted movement due to the Cush rubber inside the shock eye. This is achieved with correct torque setting. Too loose, as you say the handle would be loose. Too tight, you risk broken suspension as in this incident 👌
@@Teacher-T-Thailand That's what I thought it just seemed in your video that you were suggesting the whole shock should move freely at the top. Understand now and thanks again for getting back to me much appreciated
A great video TT, very well detailed and definitely something that I think has been on a lot of our minds since Auto's video came out. Definite props to Autorevv for bringing this issue into the public domain, whatever the reason or fault, if he hadn't have raised the issue many of us could have made similar mistakes, so thank you both of you for the videos....safe riding :)
Very kind of you to say so. Preload settings are important. So are torque settings. Like you say, between the both of us, hopefully we have raised awareness. Safe riding 🙏
Don't have a Super Meteor but looking at the pictures, I could be wrong but there appears to be two mounting points (on each side) on the fender. I wonder why the bracket wasn't designed to use these two mounting points so that shocks would be left alone.
Yes, most bikes have these mounting points. On the Zana one point does actually attach to one. On my Auoto Engina theses brackets make it easy to slide saddle bags on and off, so you can take the bag to your place of work. 🙏
@@corneilcorneil Yes, but if you look, there's a third mounting point, the one behind the passenger peg so the bracket is not only mounted on the fender. But if you're saying the fender of the Super Meteor is not all that robust then that could be the reason they used the shock mount as a mounting point for the bracket (again I don't have a Super Meteor so I wouldn't know. I was just wondering why the bracket's mounting points were designed the way they were).
Mr T, thanks for another video. Its pretty simple that overtightening the top fitting bolt you are applying a bending force to the suspension rod. I suggest locktight to make sure it doesn't come adrift, lubricant on the bolt where the suspension is in contact and a moderate tightening torque.
Thank you for another great video TeacherT! I still haven't bought my SM, but I've already started looking for storage options. The truth is that I really like Trip Machine's saddle bags, but after seeing Autorevvv's video I started having second thoughts. Now, my confidence is restored and I'm sure their saddle bags will go back on top of my list. Cheers from Greece
Thank you for researching this and breaking it down, it makes so much more sense now. However after 1 year of using your panniers or maybe 6 months could we have an update video on how they are going specifically the pannier rail.
Thank you so much for this video, Teacher T! I just bought these Tripmaster bags after seeing your videos, and now I feel like I can install them safely when they arrive.
Great Job. They are fantastic good looking and practical bags. I saw the official panniers today for the first time. Non removable. Easily scratched, and not much room inside. Not waterproof either. 🙏
Well done Teacher T! I've got some rax to put on my Classic 350. They go on the shock absorber mounting points aswell. I'll take care not to overload them when I fit them.
We started having issues with bolt failures at my workplace. The occurrences seemed to come shortly after equipment was serviced. After analyzing almost 100 job orders a trend immediately popped up, the trend was called Joe. Casual observation confirmed it, a torque wrench was purchased for Joe, but the trend continued. Joe is gone and so are the fastener failures!
This is what happens when you ignore torque loadings, many so called old school bikers think 3 knuckles is ok, and sneer at anyone who tries to tell them otherwise. And for me, as an ex RAF aircraft engineer and technical author, there is no way I would mount any other part on the shock mounts. The potential failure modes for the shock bodies and shock mounts are critical, adding other load bearing items, or indeed any other component to the mount is asking for trouble. I won’t even have the lifting handles mounted there. I’ve moved it to the large hole on the left side, and removed the other side altogether. If you look at the Hagon shocks fitting guide they also recommend that you fit suitable sized washers between the shock and frame mount. I spoke to them and they said it was a recommendation only.
It’s a failure on the rod… mountings have bushings to allow movement/restrict binding on the mount. The shaft material is not sufficient and/or the threads stressed…. Then the shafts eventually shear if the loads exceed what they can handle.
If overtightened the bushes don’t work. I’ve tried it on mine, and the owner has since pretty much confessed to over tightening. Also at 118kg, he was well above the preload 1 setting. All factors took their toll. 🙏.
@@Teacher-T-Thailand even if bushes are binding … the rod is failing. Not the mounting or mounting bolt. However the forces are being generated, the rod can not withstand them. Better material, increased rod diameter or threads with stress relief would mitigate this. Better bush design (unable to crush the mount) or spherical bearings would help… also… RE should offer a fix, it’s a design issue
@@paulhugo1623 RE did do a free replacement for this customer. Even though with wrong preload settings and this after market stay being fitted, which they disapprove of. It’s not a common incident thankfully. I think the bushes could not function properly because the metal plates of the c plate were touching the outer eye of the shock. 🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand Hey I wanted to clarify that I have not confessed to over tightening of the suspension bolt. Based on your video I wrote that could be the most likely cause. We don’t know for sure and might never know. Zana reached out to me on Instagram and offered a replacement stay- a different design which does not mount on the suspensions. And what added up to make the weight 118kgs? I said 105 😅
Thank you very much for your great videos! I really appreciate how you explain with details and knowledge. It helps all SM 650 owners (like me). Thanks again and keep up the great job you're doing. much respect
Many years ago, about 25 yrs, I put after market shocks on a bike and the manufacturer went to great lengths to explain that the top of the shock must be able to move. Oddly no one talks about this except for Teacher T - good one.
Ha ha. Thank you. I’m still in trouble, because people are saying my recommended torque setting is too low. I’m waiting for a reply to an email from RE 👌🙏
Yeah, don’t be put off. It’s a rare occurrence. And due to incorrect fitting and rear suspension pre load settings. But the rear shocks are not the best 🙏
As long as your preload is set above 1, according to your weight, and the suspension holding bolts are not over tightened, there is nothing to worry about. 👌🙏
The same thing used to happen with the rear suspension of the Kawasaki Versys X 300, and owners also blamed the company for its "poor-quality suspension." However, I always assumed it was because the preload was not properly adjusted. I believe this is the major factor causing this problem. People want the softest suspension possible, regardless of the consequences.
....learning never stops, DECADES ago a well known manufacturer had a brake down of the single shock due to extrem (mis-)use of the bike by customer. As far as I remember later the piston rod in the shocks were enlarged. With only a 18 nm fastening "power" I definitely would use locking fluid.
I think you are all wrong. The bike that failed had the luggage racks mounted on the inside of the shock not the outside like others. The torque of the mounting bolt is totally irrelevant as the shock has a rubber bush between the spacer on the bolt and the shock body as is the amount of preload set on the spring. The problem on the bike that broke is the luggage bracket touching the shock top, tell tale marks are clearly visible. As the suspension compresses the angle of the shock changes with it moving to a more laid down position, the luggage bracket was preventing this movement causing the shock to bend and creating a stress point which will fail with time. Anyone with a modicum of mechanical understanding would have spotted the problem when fitting the brackets.
I agree to disagree. Yes it was mounted on the inside, but still on the outside of the C cup which acts like a washer. The marks you refer to on top of the shock is his replacement shock. Not the broken one. 🙏
I waited over a year for the hard long haul panniers from R.E and then got a set only to get a bad batch that has finger marks all under the clear coat so they were returned, now there is no word of more being made, super disappointed. I have YSS shocks that cost me over $1000 AUD i still dont think I would mount those rails.
Wow. So sad to hear that. Can’t believe the price of YSS in Ozzz. You can thank your government for that. They are not even a quarter of that price here. I think I need to trial some. I did 500km today with the racks. No issues 🙏
Another good informative video by you, well done. I fitted some Givi panniers with their well designed racks. I’m sure I haven’t over tightened mine, but will check again.
@@Teacher-T-Thailand I just remembered. The rack is bolted to the mudguard mount where the panniers are also secured. I only had to loosen off the shocker bolt to move the handle as it was in the way. When I did it back up I couldn’t get a socket on there (I think) and had to use a ratchet Spanner, so I didn’t do it up too tight. The Givi setup can be seen on a video done by Derek at Hitchcocks.
@@Teacher-T-Thailand yes, I just bought a USB from them. It comes with a bracket that fits on the back of the tripper. You connect it to the spare wire in the headlight. It’s better than the one stupidly placed in the side panel.
Just Google Trip Machine Company Expedition Saddle bags. Links are in the video I made about them. They are very good 🙏 th-cam.com/video/ilct0foerv0/w-d-xo.html
Hi Mr T., Insightful video as always. I really enjoy and look forward to your videos. I was wondering if the continental GT suspensions can be used in super meteor. They appear to be same size. And if yes, they can be a more cost effective option, don't you think?
@@prithvirajsinghgohil7214 in that case, sadly they are too long for the Meteor 650. Interceptor is 370mm eye to eye, where the Meteor is only 310mm. This shorter travel is the reason the Meteor is so bad.
Great video as usual, thank you! I also use the Auto Engina saddle bag stay. When mounting them I was unsure how tight the screw should be. Basically this is a problem I have with all maintenance and modification work I do on my Super Meteor. Where does the 18Nm information come from? Is there any reference source I could not find? It would be great to know how tight every screw on the bike should be. Have fun at the 365 day cruise event. All the best to you and Mrs T.
The information came from the guys who made the belt drive, as the suspension has to be disconnected to fit. They have a reliable source I’ve been informed. It was a wet cruise 👌🙏
Isn’t there a rubber isolation mount involved? That should allow a certain amount of rotational movement. But it’s never a good idea to rely on low settings with a pillion.
There is yes, and a metal inner shim. But the C cup design of the mounting point can easily be squashed to the out metal eye, and restrict movement. And yes, with a Pillion involved, preload needs to me higher.
I saw that vid and honestly it shocked me. Now we know why caution should be given to after market parts? I wouldn't wish this on any biker trying to improve their ride and on a budget.
Hey Teacher T, honestly I've seen that video as well and I've had my concerns which is why I waited for the panniers to be released by royal enfield. Anyways, so far so good with my Hagon shocks. Although I am considering c changing the pre load setting. As always thank you for your videos.
I put my Hagons to Preload 3 today, as saddle bags loaded and pillion. But it was too much. My wife is only 50kg, and myself 80kg. Back to 2 in the morning 😂🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand thanks teacher t. I’ll keep the weight check in mind as well. Maybe on your next video you can upgrade your exhaust or the air filter.
@@Teacher-T-Thailand I've only seen them on videos. They do sound better without the db killers. There are a lot of options but I'm leaning towards the KP Racing exhaust as it looks exactly like the stock and hope that they won't cause problems legally as they look exactly like the stock.
This is why I didn't put any saddle stays on my bike and was very hesitant about ordering the saddle bags from Trip Machine. Another alternative should people want to try and I'm doing this myself, there are companies that make saddle stays without using the suspension mounting instead they use the same ones as royal enfield does for its own panniers i.e the ugly big hole next to the suspension.
@@Teacher-T-Thailand yeah the official RE panniers are not practical. They look nice but are way too small. The big three - Givi, Hepco and Becker and probably SW Motech, all make luggage mountings and bags for Super Meteor and theirs use different mounting points. Bandidos Pitstop out of Kerela, India makes saddle stays using that same mounts as RE officials which might be worth a try.
Due to lack of specifications I tightened my shocks to 28 Nm top and bottom. I tried to find some info on the net, but to no avail. I only found a site where they published the specs for the meteor 350 for which I think the shocks are mounted in a similar manner. There, the suggested values were between 25 and 35 Nm for the bottom bolt and between 32 and 35 Nm for the top bolt (For those who are interested I found those numbers here : www.royalenfieldowners.com/index.php?threads/master-table-of-torque-values-for-the-350-meteor.4347/. And docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pWGBuKAdP7UsRVF1zMgc1d05boKrTIfSSJdB5bO_Fto/edit?gid=0#gid=0)
Excellent video and, even though I don't have a Super Meteor, I do have a Classic 350, which uses the same system of mounting the shock absorber at the top, so I will check my set-up now.
Just such a smooth experience between gears. My wife does not head butt me between gear changes any more. Also no need to oil, so it keeps the bike so much cleaner. Also it should last much longer than a chain, and be maintenance free. It’s a win win, which is why expensive brands such as Harley and Indian fit them as standard. 🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand Thank you very much, could you give me a link where I can buy (from mexico) the same one as you and other parts such as the exhausts and filter, rear suspension?
Hello Mr. T, thanks for the video investigating the situation. Curious to know the source of the recommended 18NM torque on the suspension top bolts. Thank you!
Sure. From when I had my belt drive fitted. The rear shocks have to be briefly disconnected. They had a whole load of torque settings from pulleys to swing arms. If this is not correct or you know otherwise, please let me know 🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand I see… well, I found the recommended torque setting to be 45NM. 18NM sounded really low to me given the size, capacity and the weight of the bike.
Sure. Do let me know if you hear otherwise. Else, if the recommended setting is around what I found, Im sure you will follow up with an updated video confirming the same to ur viewers.
You need to pay attention with what the dealer does and how the bike come from factory. You can definitely tell RE is an Indian made because of the lack of attention to detail and quality. Over the few months of ownership I have noticed several instances of RE or the dealers not paying attention when assembling the bike. They missed half of the dummy plugs so I now have to get bolts to plug them to prevent rust. The entire front lip of the fender chipped its paint off within the first couple weeks, The new Long Haul Panniers were installed with the turn signals rubbing against the panniers which have now rubbed a whole into the turn signals and damaged the panniers. Of course I am trying to go through warranty but I can already tell RE is going to fight me on it and does not want to replace my damage panniers. I have been reading some nightmare of how RE does not honor their warranties plus who knows when they will actually get the new parts to me if they actually follow through.
There is always a Friday afternoon product in every company. All the best with getting your issues sorted. Sometimes it’s better to call the RE hotline than dealing direct with the dealer, for better service. 🙏
Here in india Street Mechanics tighten nuts and bolts too much on Bajaj, TVS and Hero bikes and no one experiences broken shocks or broken Chassis on these bikes which are often driven with 3 to 4 pillion. Now compare with RE you need prpper torque settings, what that Hell kind of bikes are REs a little more tightened nut and it goes off will surely lead to hospital. Dont just buy RE, they poorly made with poor quality materials. RE bikes are Junk. Go for TVS, Bajaj and Hero you will never fail.
Avevo visto in precedenza il video con quel problema é sono arrivato anche io ad incriminare il problema al blocco della scorrevolezza dell ammortizzatore causa do stress da fatica. Provveduto anche io a verificare che l ammortizzatore sia libero di muoversi senza fatica.👍
Indian quality, you don't see this crap with Triumph, Indian, Kawasaki, Honda or Suzuki. In my country RE quality is so bad the dealerships are giving 30 days just to look at your bike because the have so many with issues piling up. Plus, they devalue like crazy and people sell them with very low miles
Wouldn’t that be a thing. I doubt it, because the fitting sleeve is wedged shaped. But I’m sure they could design one to fit. Then you have the option of either panniers. I will message them 🙏
You saved my day with this sprocket issue. Just a tiny itsy bitsy loose. Not by much. I need to get a 17mm half inch socket to torque properly. So thanks sincerely
It’s a rare occurrence so far thankfully. And there is always a Friday afternoon job in every company. And there is certainly some wrong settings on this bike.
A video on the Shotgun which has the same frame and shocks, specifies that the tightening torque is 50 nM (at 5'30''). th-cam.com/video/hxIqHI1Bpz8/w-d-xo.html Doesn't the shock rotate around a tight spacer, but not on the screw axis? Otherwise it would wear out the frame and the screw! The problem here is that the pannier support was mounted inside and was fixed to the fixed part of the frame, so it prevented the shock from rising (pivoting on its spacer axis). The pannier support therefore broke the shock cup on each side. The shocks have nothing to do with it, it is probably a bad assembly. This is why the RE supports are offset to allow free rotation of the shocks!
Mmmm. How interesting. RE are very secretive about giving out information on the Meteor 650 sadly. But I have it from a reliable source that 17Nm is correct. I have been told the shocks on the Shotgun are 20mm longer? I can’t confirm. The shock certainly couldn’t pivot. In my opinion because it was too tightly done up. I overtightened mine to test. And Auto Rev messaged to say he is 118Kg which is well above the preload for setting 1. On setting one, the shocks would bottom out on me all the time, and I’m only 80kg. Not pivoting and constant bottoming out caused the issue. The racks are not the real cause in my opinion. 🙏
OK, if it's not the pannier support, it's the preload with the successive rebounds on the stop. But I think that a torque of 17-18nM (at the top) on this frame is dangerous, the shock absorber risks moving in the frame and getting damaged (specified in the RE video). I think that this torque of 18nM may apply at the bottom, which pivots. On the 650 workshop manual, on an Interceptor the torque is 18nM at the top and bottom, but at the top the shock absorber fits on an axle welded to the frame, the hexagon screw only serves to prevent it from coming out. On the Meteor and the Shotgun it's different, the shock absorber is held at the top by the clamping between two metal plates. At the bottom it seems to be the same as the Interceptor. It is best to inquire at a workshop that has the workshop manual for these models.
@@fabsup27 yes it does seem low. It I have it from a reliable source who has contacted a Royal Enfield workshop. As you know, there is no workshop manual available to the public. Which is why I am saying: 1. If the grab handles are lose, then the bolt is too lose. 2. Use paint to mark the nuts and bolts to check for movement. 3. Use lock tight. 🙏
Not really. Wrong preload settings. Possible wrong torque settings. And thankfully a rare occurrence so far. But RE really need to offer consumers a rear shock upgrade preference on purchase of a new bike. 🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand All the dampers i saw so far have metal bushings, sitting in rubber dampers, you just can't "lock" them up, no mather how hard you tighten the nut, since the bushings are slightly wider and prevent what happend here. I call it a design failure. Never saw this on whatever bike or car. For me, i have to think over to buy one as a lighter hop on bike, what else did they design in a stupid way? A shame.
@@corneilcorneil this is true, but with the adding of a luggage rack, and over tightening the thin metal plates would have been squeeze onto the outer eye of the unit. This is the problem here I think.
I think for the price paid, the quality of Royal Enfield is very good. These incidents are isolated, and they can normally be traced back to user error. 🙏
Right Guys. My mistake. Urgent Update. The rear shocks torque setting is 45Nm not 18Nm as stated in this video. My mistake. My apologies.🙏 Urgent Update - Meteor 650 rear shock Torque settings
th-cam.com/video/4aenaS_tAKQ/w-d-xo.html
As an Indian, I can assure that 90 percent of incidents like frame collapse, shocks failure etc mechanical issues happended due to poor installation of accessories or not following torque settings. Average Indian or mechanics are even unaware that😅 there is something called torque settings exist especially for critical joints
By the way I noticed Himalayan 450 on the RE Thailand page. Maybe you can make another video as you were unable to test ride in the UK?
Ha ha thanks for your honesty 🙏
Mmmm. The only video I received a lot of hate and ridicule from. Still to this day. All the reviews are done. I think I’m one of the only few that highlight the side stand issue. I’ve decided it will never be a bike for me. And will avoid at costs from now on 😂🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand Abhinav Bhatt posted a video in which he talks about the side stand issue with the chief designer of RE 450. I think people are more unhappy about the title of the video which is different from the content of the video(I don't know if you agree with me but the title of the video was too much clickbaity, and your viewers do not expect this from you.) I don't think the majority of the viewers are unhappy with the content of the video. Maybe you can give another shot with Himalayan 450 as last time you have limited time and other factors which restrict your experience. If you are unable to compile a good video then don't post it.
@@hellfire8395 Thanks again. I did retitle the video to ‘My Epic Fail’. Because that’s what is was. Maybe be I change the title and thumb nail to side stand issue? I did see that video. I’ve also seen lots of videos where people fall off the bike at low speeds, with miss footing and the top weight of the bike. Something I was not prepared or could afford to do on a brand new bike. I was more excited to see the display more than anything else. A great bike for the right sized rider for sure. I just hope Royal Enfield invite me to the press launch of the Classic 650. That is a bike I’m really looking forward to ride and review. Sadly in Thailand we are so far behind with launch dates. Yesterday I went on the 365 days of pure cruising event. I see this happened in India 5 months ago. 😂🙏
Hello Mr. T, I want to thank you for investigating this incident. You have brought out some important points which I could not cover. Overtorque on suspension bolt looks the mostly likely cause here. Btw, I was riding solo, without any pannier bags, when this happened, but yes this was months in the making. I’m 105kgs and ive never changed the preload settings, it’s the same that came as stock. You suggest I should move this to 2 or 3? Let me know. Excellent video as always 😊
Thank you also. I know you were solo when the incident happened. But it’s had times with you both riding, with saddle bags loaded. And 100% over weight for Pre load 1. Some owners run at 4 or 5. It sounds crazy. But raising the preload makes the ride softer, Opposite to what you think. With your weight I recommend 3 setting minimum. Safe riding my friend 👌🙏
Hi Teacher T.
In my opinion, the standard RE shocks are very poor, both in function and design. They are made to a budget and that is obvious in how they perform. As you know from our FB page I’ve changed to Hagons, and have now fitted YSS shocks. The YSS shocks are streets ahead in every way.
As for the mounting bolts, they are indeed 17Nm and if overtightened they will clamp the forked mountings and prevent the pivoting that must be allowed to take place. There are too many people out there carrying out work on their bikes without the slightest clue about torque loadings and their importance. That classic refrain “I’m old school and just tighten it as much as I can” is as dangerous as it is ridiculous.
I have the Hepco and Becker C-Bow pannier system, precisely because they do not mount on the top shock mounting. I have also moved the lifting handle to the larger hole so it is also not mounted on the shock, and removed it altogether on the other side.
As an ex aircraft engineer and technical author I was not happy to mount anything to the shock absorber mounts, as it is a critical component and a critical part of the structure. The failure modes here are potentially catastrophic and if this was an aircraft would require special fitting instructions/ warnings and preventative maintenance, such as schedule torque checks on the bolts, and crack inspections on the mountings.
One last point, if you look at the Hagon fitting instructions they also recommend the fitting of a flat washer, on each side, between the shock and the bracket, this also facilitates that pivoting that you need. I phoned them about this and they said it was a recommendation only, not a requirement.
Let’s hope people think twice about tightening bolts to three white knuckles and a guess, it’s not worth it.
@@Teacher-T-Thailand Agree 100% with your observations on the reason that the shocks failed and the preload settings. Like so many others, I road off from the dealership with the shocks set at level #1 - terrible. Set to #3, but would still bottom too frequently with my body weight, gear and saddlebags total of around 185 pounds, 84 Kg. Setting #4 seemed adequate for a couple of thousand miles, but the original shocks springs just don’t hold up. I’m now at setting #5 with 6500 miles on the bike and the ride is acceptable. Once the springs turn to spaghetti at this highest setting I will be forced to replace them. Then comes the question of which replacement shocks, YSS or the lower priced Hagon?
@@EWAScotland thanks Ev. I see the model YSS you have fitted are even longer than the originals? That would be a problem for me and my short legs. But more travel would produce a better ride. Yes the originals are not fit for purpose in my opinion. RE really should stop fitting them. £45 retail says it all. Safe riding Eva. It was your comment on my saddlebag video, that prompted this video 😂🙏
@@lnk4328 Hopefully Royal Enfield will take note and make a better shock as an option, same as the seats. The current ones are toast 😂🙏
An excellent and timely video. I was alarmed when I first saw the original video from the owner. Your analysis makes perfect sense and by going the extra mile with direct input from the shock manufacturer, you have added full credibility to the explanation and should allay any rider’s fears of owning or modifying this terrific bike.
Thank you, Yes peace of mind again. I too was worried. A 500k trip for us in the morning. The Meteor 659 arrived in Thailand 365 days ago 👌🙏
A few points:
1) There is nothing unusual about the "C" bracket mounting point for the shock. Many bikes use it.
2) I am not familiar with the RE items, but, usually, the suspension unit bush has a crush tube, which is very slightly wider than the rubber part and is intended to be clamped by the mounting. The rubber bush accommodates any movement. The nut and integral washer on the Honda is tightened against the tube, not against the end of the thread. Unless there is a problem with the design or manufacture of the frame, it would not be possible to apply enough torque to actually crush the crush tube and bring the frame into contact with the suspension unit eye.
3) The suspension unit should not fail in normal use, even if it repeatedly hits the bump stop.
4) The arm of the luggage rack is very close to the top of the suspension unit. As the swinging arm rises, the suspension unit has to rotate around the top mount. Is it possible that the rack interfered with the movement of the suspension unit?
Thank you for your response. Even if I over-tighten mine the unit will not move freely as it should. Also Auto Rev has messaged me. He is 118 kg, and sometimes carries a pillion, and luggage. That is well above the 90kg recommended for preload one. And on my first week of owning the bike at 80kg solo, the suspension would break my back almost bottoming out. So this repeated with a non moving shock has certainly caused this. 🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand Curious regarding the shock moving freely on the axis of the top and bottom bolt, I would have thought that having it move freely means the shock can rotate before actually doing its job of controlling the compression when going on undulating surfaces, would a secure shock mean that once installed it will only move in one axis and do its job properly. I also mention this as I have a lift handle (OEM) on the bike which like all Meteor 350's is mounted on the left hand side top bolt for the shock, if this is not tight enough it rotates round, the shock has to be tight in its location for the handle to stay in position. Just my thoughts happy to be corrected, thanks for the videos enjoy them all :)
@@volrider Ahhh it’s not free movement. It’s about 3 to 4 mm of free unrestricted movement due to the Cush rubber inside the shock eye. This is achieved with correct torque setting. Too loose, as you say the handle would be loose. Too tight, you risk broken suspension as in this incident 👌
@@Teacher-T-Thailand That's what I thought it just seemed in your video that you were suggesting the whole shock should move freely at the top. Understand now and thanks again for getting back to me much appreciated
@@volrider 🙏
A great video TT, very well detailed and definitely something that I think has been on a lot of our minds since Auto's video came out. Definite props to Autorevv for bringing this issue into the public domain, whatever the reason or fault, if he hadn't have raised the issue many of us could have made similar mistakes, so thank you both of you for the videos....safe riding :)
Very kind of you to say so. Preload settings are important. So are torque settings. Like you say, between the both of us, hopefully we have raised awareness. Safe riding 🙏
Phew, thank goodness I went for the Vulcan, probably never had an issue since starting production in 62!
Ha ha. Enjoy my friend 😂🙏
Don't have a Super Meteor but looking at the pictures, I could be wrong but there appears to be two mounting points (on each side) on the fender. I wonder why the bracket wasn't designed to use these two mounting points so that shocks would be left alone.
Yes, most bikes have these mounting points. On the Zana one point does actually attach to one. On my Auoto Engina theses brackets make it easy to slide saddle bags on and off, so you can take the bag to your place of work. 🙏
@@wrongwolfride9289 Mounting a braket on a fender... not the strongest sollution.
@@corneilcorneil Yes, but if you look, there's a third mounting point, the one behind the passenger peg so the bracket is not only mounted on the fender. But if you're saying the fender of the Super Meteor is not all that robust then that could be the reason they used the shock mount as a mounting point for the bracket (again I don't have a Super Meteor so I wouldn't know. I was just wondering why the bracket's mounting points were designed the way they were).
Mr T, thanks for another video. Its pretty simple that overtightening the top fitting bolt you are applying a bending force to the suspension rod. I suggest locktight to make sure it doesn't come adrift, lubricant on the bolt where the suspension is in contact and a moderate tightening torque.
Thank you. Great advice 🙏
Thank you for another great video TeacherT!
I still haven't bought my SM, but I've already started looking for storage options. The truth is that I really like Trip Machine's saddle bags, but after seeing Autorevvv's video I started having second thoughts.
Now, my confidence is restored and I'm sure their saddle bags will go back on top of my list.
Cheers from Greece
Thank you for you lovely comment. Fingers crossed you get that SM650 soon 🙏
Thank you for researching this and breaking it down, it makes so much more sense now. However after 1 year of using your panniers or maybe 6 months could we have an update video on how they are going specifically the pannier rail.
Sure. 500km today. No issues 🙏
Thank you so much for this video, Teacher T! I just bought these Tripmaster bags after seeing your videos, and now I feel like I can install them safely when they arrive.
Great Job. They are fantastic good looking and practical bags. I saw the official panniers today for the first time. Non removable. Easily scratched, and not much room inside. Not waterproof either. 🙏
Well done Teacher T! I've got some rax to put on my Classic 350. They go on the shock absorber mounting points aswell.
I'll take care not to overload them when I fit them.
Great stuff. I love the Classic 350. A true gentleman’s bike. Enjoy 🙏
We started having issues with bolt failures at my workplace. The occurrences seemed to come shortly after equipment was serviced. After analyzing almost 100 job orders a trend immediately popped up, the trend was called Joe. Casual observation confirmed it, a torque wrench was purchased for Joe, but the trend continued. Joe is gone and so are the fastener failures!
Ha ha ha. 😂🙏
This is what happens when you ignore torque loadings, many so called old school bikers think 3 knuckles is ok, and sneer at anyone who tries to tell them otherwise.
And for me, as an ex RAF aircraft engineer and technical author, there is no way I would mount any other part on the shock mounts. The potential failure modes for the shock bodies and shock mounts are critical, adding other load bearing items, or indeed any other component to the mount is asking for trouble.
I won’t even have the lifting handles mounted there. I’ve moved it to the large hole on the left side, and removed the other side altogether.
If you look at the Hagon shocks fitting guide they also recommend that you fit suitable sized washers between the shock and frame mount. I spoke to them and they said it was a recommendation only.
Well from an old Rock Ape, who passed his entrance exam to be an aircraft technician, but declined, I agree with you. 😂🙏
It’s a failure on the rod… mountings have bushings to allow movement/restrict binding on the mount. The shaft material is not sufficient and/or the threads stressed…. Then the shafts eventually shear if the loads exceed what they can handle.
If overtightened the bushes don’t work. I’ve tried it on mine, and the owner has since pretty much confessed to over tightening. Also at 118kg, he was well above the preload 1 setting. All factors took their toll. 🙏.
@@Teacher-T-Thailand even if bushes are binding … the rod is failing. Not the mounting or mounting bolt. However the forces are being generated, the rod can not withstand them. Better material, increased rod diameter or threads with stress relief would mitigate this. Better bush design (unable to crush the mount) or spherical bearings would help… also… RE should offer a fix, it’s a design issue
@@paulhugo1623 RE did do a free replacement for this customer. Even though with wrong preload settings and this after market stay being fitted, which they disapprove of. It’s not a common incident thankfully. I think the bushes could not function properly because the metal plates of the c plate were touching the outer eye of the shock. 🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand Hey I wanted to clarify that I have not confessed to over tightening of the suspension bolt. Based on your video I wrote that could be the most likely cause. We don’t know for sure and might never know. Zana reached out to me on Instagram and offered a replacement stay- a different design which does not mount on the suspensions. And what added up to make the weight 118kgs? I said 105 😅
My apologies. Great to hear Zana reached out to you. All the best
Thank you very much for your great videos! I really appreciate how you explain with details and knowledge. It helps all SM 650 owners (like me). Thanks again and keep up the great job you're doing. much respect
Thank you so much for your kind words 🙏
Many years ago, about 25 yrs, I put after market shocks on a bike and the manufacturer went to great lengths to explain that the top of the shock must be able to move. Oddly no one talks about this except for Teacher T - good one.
Ha ha. Thank you. I’m still in trouble, because people are saying my recommended torque setting is too low. I’m waiting for a reply to an email from RE 👌🙏
Excellent analysis!
Good job for sharing it!
No worries. Thank you 🙏
Scared me there for a minute. I'm leaning towards purchasing the Super Meteor 650. Thank's for the honesty.
Don’t worry… go for it… that’s a nice bike… just be aware of fitting of aftermarket accessories…
Yeah, don’t be put off. It’s a rare occurrence. And due to incorrect fitting and rear suspension pre load settings. But the rear shocks are not the best 🙏
Now I am on alert mode..since its tooooooo crucial role for bike and as well for motoring person.
Thank you teacher T
As long as your preload is set above 1, according to your weight, and the suspension holding bolts are not over tightened, there is nothing to worry about. 👌🙏
Great explanation but the mounting of zana frame is also responsible for
Mmmmm not if fitted correctly. I’m sure it was over tightened. 🙏
The same thing used to happen with the rear suspension of the Kawasaki Versys X 300, and owners also blamed the company for its "poor-quality suspension." However, I always assumed it was because the preload was not properly adjusted. I believe this is the major factor causing this problem. People want the softest suspension possible, regardless of the consequences.
Yep, sag needs to be measures. But it’s a shame they come out of the showroom in setting 1. Caused so many comfort issues for so many owners 🙏
....learning never stops, DECADES ago a well known manufacturer had a brake down of the single shock due to extrem (mis-)use of the bike by customer. As far as I remember later the piston rod in the shocks were enlarged. With only a 18 nm fastening "power" I definitely would use locking fluid.
👌🙏
I think you are all wrong. The bike that failed had the luggage racks mounted on the inside of the shock not the outside like others. The torque of the mounting bolt is totally irrelevant as the shock has a rubber bush between the spacer on the bolt and the shock body as is the amount of preload set on the spring. The problem on the bike that broke is the luggage bracket touching the shock top, tell tale marks are clearly visible. As the suspension compresses the angle of the shock changes with it moving to a more laid down position, the luggage bracket was preventing this movement causing the shock to bend and creating a stress point which will fail with time. Anyone with a modicum of mechanical understanding would have spotted the problem when fitting the brackets.
that's right !
I agree to disagree. Yes it was mounted on the inside, but still on the outside of the C cup which acts like a washer. The marks you refer to on top of the shock is his replacement shock. Not the broken one. 🙏
I waited over a year for the hard long haul panniers from R.E and then got a set only to get a bad batch that has finger marks all under the clear coat so they were returned, now there is no word of more being made, super disappointed. I have YSS shocks that cost me over $1000 AUD i still dont think I would mount those rails.
Wow. So sad to hear that. Can’t believe the price of YSS in Ozzz. You can thank your government for that. They are not even a quarter of that price here. I think I need to trial some. I did 500km today with the racks. No issues 🙏
Another good informative video by you, well done. I fitted some Givi panniers with their well designed racks. I’m sure I haven’t over tightened mine, but will check again.
Thank you. So Givi mount on top of suspension unit also? Interesting. Yes please check. Safe riding 👌😂
@@Teacher-T-Thailand I just remembered. The rack is bolted to the mudguard mount where the panniers are also secured. I only had to loosen off the shocker bolt to move the handle as it was in the way. When I did it back up I couldn’t get a socket on there (I think) and had to use a ratchet Spanner, so I didn’t do it up too tight. The Givi setup can be seen on a video done by Derek at Hitchcocks.
@@TriumphRascal ahhhh yes, I’ve seen that video. What a great business they have there. 🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand yes, I just bought a USB from them. It comes with a bracket that fits on the back of the tripper. You connect it to the spare wire in the headlight. It’s better than the one stupidly placed in the side panel.
I would like you to try the susoension lowering kit !
I will look into it. Thank you 🙏
Nice looking bike. Saddlebags compliment the bike very nicely sir.
Thank you. Yes they look good and are practical 🙏
Great saddle stays, you have!
May I know how could one buy it, outside Thailand?
Just Google Trip Machine Company Expedition Saddle bags. Links are in the video I made about them. They are very good 🙏 th-cam.com/video/ilct0foerv0/w-d-xo.html
Most riders in India don't pay attention to pre load settings or even torque settings.
Or traffic lights.
It seems that way. But preload is easy to change, and a must do on this bike with standard suspension 👌🙏
Hi Mr T., Insightful video as always. I really enjoy and look forward to your videos. I was wondering if the continental GT suspensions can be used in super meteor. They appear to be same size. And if yes, they can be a more cost effective option, don't you think?
Thank you. Not very many Continentals where I live. The next time I see one, I’ll have a look and measure 👌🙏
I think continental GT's is same as interceptor's. Both share the same chassis.
@@prithvirajsinghgohil7214 in that case, sadly they are too long for the Meteor 650. Interceptor is 370mm eye to eye, where the Meteor is only 310mm. This shorter travel is the reason the Meteor is so bad.
Great video as usual, thank you! I also use the Auto Engina saddle bag stay. When mounting them I was unsure how tight the screw should be. Basically this is a problem I have with all maintenance and modification work I do on my Super Meteor. Where does the 18Nm information come from? Is there any reference source I could not find? It would be great to know how tight every screw on the bike should be.
Have fun at the 365 day cruise event. All the best to you and Mrs T.
The information came from the guys who made the belt drive, as the suspension has to be disconnected to fit. They have a reliable source I’ve been informed. It was a wet cruise 👌🙏
Isn’t there a rubber isolation mount involved? That should allow a certain amount of rotational movement. But it’s never a good idea to rely on low settings with a pillion.
There is yes, and a metal inner shim. But the C cup design of the mounting point can easily be squashed to the out metal eye, and restrict movement. And yes, with a Pillion involved, preload needs to me higher.
I saw that vid and honestly it shocked me. Now we know why caution should be given to after market parts? I wouldn't wish this on any biker trying to improve their ride and on a budget.
The occurrence is rare. And with correct preload and torque settings, nothing to worry about. 🙏
Hey Teacher T, honestly I've seen that video as well and I've had my concerns which is why I waited for the panniers to be released by royal enfield. Anyways, so far so good with my Hagon shocks. Although I am considering c changing the pre load setting. As always thank you for your videos.
I put my Hagons to Preload 3 today, as saddle bags loaded and pillion. But it was too much. My wife is only 50kg, and myself 80kg. Back to 2 in the morning 😂🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand thanks teacher t. I’ll keep the weight check in mind as well. Maybe on your next video you can upgrade your exhaust or the air filter.
@@simonshylla9739 I did see and hear the Rhino Racing exhausts in the flesh yesterday.. Not as load as thought they would be. Tempted lol 🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand I've only seen them on videos. They do sound better without the db killers. There are a lot of options but I'm leaning towards the KP Racing exhaust as it looks exactly like the stock and hope that they won't cause problems legally as they look exactly like the stock.
This is why I didn't put any saddle stays on my bike and was very hesitant about ordering the saddle bags from Trip Machine.
Another alternative should people want to try and I'm doing this myself, there are companies that make saddle stays without using the suspension mounting instead they use the same ones as royal enfield does for its own panniers i.e the ugly big hole next to the suspension.
Yes. At least we know what they were designed for now lol. 🙏 I personally don’t think the official panniers will last long.
@@Teacher-T-Thailand yeah the official RE panniers are not practical. They look nice but are way too small.
The big three - Givi, Hepco and Becker and probably SW Motech, all make luggage mountings and bags for Super Meteor and theirs use different mounting points.
Bandidos Pitstop out of Kerela, India makes saddle stays using that same mounts as RE officials which might be worth a try.
Due to lack of specifications I tightened my shocks to 28 Nm top and bottom. I tried to find some info on the net, but to no avail. I only found a site where they published the specs for the meteor 350 for which I think the shocks are mounted in a similar manner. There, the suggested values were between 25 and 35 Nm for the bottom bolt and between 32 and 35 Nm for the top bolt (For those who are interested I found those numbers here : www.royalenfieldowners.com/index.php?threads/master-table-of-torque-values-for-the-350-meteor.4347/. And docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pWGBuKAdP7UsRVF1zMgc1d05boKrTIfSSJdB5bO_Fto/edit?gid=0#gid=0)
I have emailed RE. Waiting for a response 🙏
Excellent video and, even though I don't have a Super Meteor, I do have a Classic 350, which uses the same system of mounting the shock absorber at the top, so I will check my set-up now.
Thank you. Yes please check your shocks have a bit of movement. Safe riding 🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand Just done so, all good. I fitted the side racks each side to carry Lomo bags.
@@davericketts9101 Great stuff. It’s all in the small details. 👌🙏
Hello Mr. T, a question, what advantage does belt traction have compared to chain traction, thank you
Just such a smooth experience between gears. My wife does not head butt me between gear changes any more. Also no need to oil, so it keeps the bike so much cleaner. Also it should last much longer than a chain, and be maintenance free. It’s a win win, which is why expensive brands such as Harley and Indian fit them as standard. 🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand Thank you very much, could you give me a link where I can buy (from mexico) the same one as you and other parts such as the exhausts and filter, rear suspension?
@@yulienmarin5397 My old video here has a link in the description for the belt drive th-cam.com/video/hrDxRp6YP_s/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Qku21jfu1bgbj7Sz
And here for the shocks, and Hitchcocks sell filters exhausts etc th-cam.com/video/1h1J09k1xww/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cOlK6Yq18BjSpZq9
Very helpful and well communicated piece. Thanks from NZ.
Thank you. I’ve been watching Joe Ryan and his tour on a Himalayan 411 Scram. What a beautiful looking country. Enjoy. 👌🙏
Hello Mr. T, thanks for the video investigating the situation. Curious to know the source of the recommended 18NM torque on the suspension top bolts. Thank you!
Sure. From when I had my belt drive fitted. The rear shocks have to be briefly disconnected. They had a whole load of torque settings from pulleys to swing arms. If this is not correct or you know otherwise, please let me know 🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand I see… well, I found the recommended torque setting to be 45NM. 18NM sounded really low to me given the size, capacity and the weight of the bike.
@@kaushikchanda2291 ok, it sounds like we need some confirmation. I will email Royal Enfield. Thanks 🙏
Sure. Do let me know if you hear otherwise. Else, if the recommended setting is around what I found, Im sure you will follow up with an updated video confirming the same to ur viewers.
Absolutely agree with you. For this reason I love your videos. Thank you
Thank you so much 🙏
You need to pay attention with what the dealer does and how the bike come from factory. You can definitely tell RE is an Indian made because of the lack of attention to detail and quality. Over the few months of ownership I have noticed several instances of RE or the dealers not paying attention when assembling the bike. They missed half of the dummy plugs so I now have to get bolts to plug them to prevent rust. The entire front lip of the fender chipped its paint off within the first couple weeks, The new Long Haul Panniers were installed with the turn signals rubbing against the panniers which have now rubbed a whole into the turn signals and damaged the panniers. Of course I am trying to go through warranty but I can already tell RE is going to fight me on it and does not want to replace my damage panniers. I have been reading some nightmare of how RE does not honor their warranties plus who knows when they will actually get the new parts to me if they actually follow through.
There is always a Friday afternoon product in every company. All the best with getting your issues sorted. Sometimes it’s better to call the RE hotline than dealing direct with the dealer, for better service. 🙏
Thank you for this vid very helpful
You are more than welcome. Thanks for watching 🙏
Here in india Street Mechanics tighten nuts and bolts too much on Bajaj, TVS and Hero bikes and no one experiences broken shocks or broken Chassis on these bikes which are often driven with 3 to 4 pillion. Now compare with RE you need prpper torque settings, what that Hell kind of bikes are REs a little more tightened nut and it goes off will surely lead to hospital. Dont just buy RE, they poorly made with poor quality materials. RE bikes are Junk. Go for TVS, Bajaj and Hero you will never fail.
Are you allowed to live in India and say such things? But agreed on the Bajaj. Shame it’s not available world wide like RE.
I want to buy this bike on December as my own gift for my retirement day will coming soon
Good for you. You only live once. Enjoy 🙏
Avevo visto in precedenza il video con quel problema é sono arrivato anche io ad incriminare il problema al blocco della scorrevolezza dell ammortizzatore causa do stress da fatica. Provveduto anche io a verificare che l ammortizzatore sia libero di muoversi senza fatica.👍
Good job. Safe riding 👌🙏
Indian quality, you don't see this crap with Triumph, Indian, Kawasaki, Honda or Suzuki. In my country RE quality is so bad the dealerships are giving 30 days just to look at your bike because the have so many with issues piling up. Plus, they devalue like crazy and people sell them with very low miles
I think you will find some parts for RE are coming out of the same factories Triumph use 😂🙏
Can you fit the trip machine saddle bags on the genuine RE pannier racks? Would be great if you can check and confirm.
Wouldn’t that be a thing. I doubt it, because the fitting sleeve is wedged shaped. But I’m sure they could design one to fit. Then you have the option of either panniers. I will message them 🙏
Still gonna buy one 🤷🏾♂️
Good for you. It’s an isolated incident, that could have been prevented 👌🙏
Super information !
Merci 😂🙏
Well done!!!
Thank you 🙏
Nice job.
👋👋👋
Thank you 🙏
thanks for this vidio your content is invaluable
You are more than welcome. Ride safe 🙏
Many thanks for this video. Cheers!
You are more than welcome. Thanks for watching 🙏
You saved my day with this sprocket issue. Just a tiny itsy bitsy loose. Not by much. I need to get a 17mm half inch socket to torque properly. So thanks sincerely
@@Teacher-T-Thailand all done, properly torqued … thanks again
@@sellignomod83 wow. Sure. 👌 🙏
mostbikes come with rubbish suspension units un less premium makes so no surprises here
Yes. I see the problem is not solely Royal Enfield. I see a lot of Triumphs with after market shocks fitted here also ,🙏
wherever i go i see zana accessories
Himalayan 50 chassis
super metero 650 rear suspension
Himalayan 411 chassis
You must be in India 😂🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand yes! I also happen to be the owner of Himalayan from the very first lot (BS3, Carb, 2016). I have clocked approx 75000 kms on it
@@the_moto_monk_ey Nice. 🙏
The fantastic indian manufactory.....
It’s a rare occurrence so far thankfully. And there is always a Friday afternoon job in every company. And there is certainly some wrong settings on this bike.
World best royal enfield 😊
It’s a great bike for the money paid. 🙏
A video on the Shotgun which has the same frame and shocks, specifies that the tightening torque is 50 nM (at 5'30'').
th-cam.com/video/hxIqHI1Bpz8/w-d-xo.html
Doesn't the shock rotate around a tight spacer, but not on the screw axis? Otherwise it would wear out the frame and the screw!
The problem here is that the pannier support was mounted inside and was fixed to the fixed part of the frame, so it prevented the shock from rising (pivoting on its spacer axis). The pannier support therefore broke the shock cup on each side. The shocks have nothing to do with it, it is probably a bad assembly.
This is why the RE supports are offset to allow free rotation of the shocks!
Mmmm. How interesting. RE are very secretive about giving out information on the Meteor 650 sadly. But I have it from a reliable source that 17Nm is correct. I have been told the shocks on the Shotgun are 20mm longer? I can’t confirm. The shock certainly couldn’t pivot. In my opinion because it was too tightly done up. I overtightened mine to test. And Auto Rev messaged to say he is 118Kg which is well above the preload for setting 1. On setting one, the shocks would bottom out on me all the time, and I’m only 80kg. Not pivoting and constant bottoming out caused the issue. The racks are not the real cause in my opinion. 🙏
OK, if it's not the pannier support, it's the preload with the successive rebounds on the stop. But I think that a torque of 17-18nM (at the top) on this frame is dangerous, the shock absorber risks moving in the frame and getting damaged (specified in the RE video). I think that this torque of 18nM may apply at the bottom, which pivots. On the 650 workshop manual, on an Interceptor the torque is 18nM at the top and bottom, but at the top the shock absorber fits on an axle welded to the frame, the hexagon screw only serves to prevent it from coming out. On the Meteor and the Shotgun it's different, the shock absorber is held at the top by the clamping between two metal plates. At the bottom it seems to be the same as the Interceptor. It is best to inquire at a workshop that has the workshop manual for these models.
@@fabsup27 yes it does seem low. It I have it from a reliable source who has contacted a Royal Enfield workshop. As you know, there is no workshop manual available to the public. Which is why I am saying: 1. If the grab handles are lose, then the bolt is too lose. 2. Use paint to mark the nuts and bolts to check for movement. 3. Use lock tight. 🙏
ok royal enfield you get wat you paid for
When it comes to the rear shocks, sure. But the engine and the rest of the bike is pretty spot on 🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailanddon’t forget the chain set issue 🙏
@@ZRYDR ahhhh. I’ve got a belt drive. No problems 😂🙏
My comments are not posting
Really? I can read this one.
@@Teacher-T-Thailandfirst one didnt
Om Shanti 🙏 Radhe Radhe
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Bullet Guru ko tag karo koi to
🤔
All. Junk. And Spares. A j s
The rear suspension on the Meteor 650 is sub standard sadly. But the rest of the bike is on the money. 🙏
So, design failure.
Not really. Wrong preload settings. Possible wrong torque settings. And thankfully a rare occurrence so far. But RE really need to offer consumers a rear shock upgrade preference on purchase of a new bike. 🙏
@@Teacher-T-Thailand All the dampers i saw so far have metal bushings, sitting in rubber dampers, you just can't "lock" them up, no mather how hard you tighten the nut, since the bushings are slightly wider and prevent what happend here. I call it a design failure. Never saw this on whatever bike or car. For me, i have to think over to buy one as a lighter hop on bike, what else did they design in a stupid way? A shame.
@@corneilcorneil this is true, but with the adding of a luggage rack, and over tightening the thin metal plates would have been squeeze onto the outer eye of the unit. This is the problem here I think.
What junk!
What’s better?
Royal enfield quality is too poor. Even the new and old Himalayan chassis has broken. In some cases even with stock guards.
I think for the price paid, the quality of Royal Enfield is very good. These incidents are isolated, and they can normally be traced back to user error. 🙏
Worrying!
Your fault diagnosis seems to me to be correct.
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