Build a Delta 3D Printer - Loading firmware into the Arduino M2560

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2024
  • Repetier code download link: drive.google.c...
    The firmware is the program that will send code into the board, interpret it and translate it into motion, temperature adjustment and extrusion. It will be our interface for interacting with the printer and setting up different parameters and settings. There are quite a few firmwares out there, the most popular being Marlin, the thing with Marlin is that although its widely used the code has an overwhelmingly high amount of lines and can be hard to find the right line of code when performing a configuration. We’ll use Repetier for this printer which has a cleaner code that is easier to understand, has great online technical support and a very nice configuration tool maker on its website. You can of course make your own code from scratch but I’ll provide a polished configuration file that you can download and upload to your printer.
    To upload the firmware we’ll need the Arduino IDE software which can be downloaded from the arduino website. Once Arduino IDE is installed, open the Repetier.ino file provided on the video, connect the USB cable on the Arduino Mega to your computer using the USB extension cord, the LCD display should now show a blank blue screen, this marks that the Arduino board is empty. On the Arduino IDE under the Tools tab choose Arduino Mega or Mega 2560 for board. As for port it may vary depending on which operating system your working but the board should come up on one of your ports as ttyusb, ttyACM1 or similar. (You may have to grant permission for the operating system to make changes on this device.)
    Now click on the upload button on the upper left corner, the software will start loading the firmware into the printer, this might take a minute or so. When uploading is done the LCD should now display a splash screen with the Repetier logo and a main control panel, this means we’ve correctly uploaded the firmware. Should the LCD screen still be blank blue after uploading check the cables going to the Ramps 1.4 and make sure the EXP1 and EXP2 are connected correctly, if the problem persists check the potentiometer in the display and turn it either way with a small flat screwdriver till the display is readable.
    Now we can disconnect the USB extension cord from the Arduino Mega and close Arduino IDE software.

ความคิดเห็น • 28

  • @jimmym2719
    @jimmym2719 ปีที่แล้ว

    Your tutorials is awesome, I m keen on this built becos I got most of the parts except and the 6 ball ends rod & the ramps1.4 board & display. Can I use the old Anet A8 2004lcd 5buttons display with your firmware?

    • @myriadpro6752
      @myriadpro6752  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      it looks like your display should work well with the firmware, you'll still need the ramps 1.4 or similar

    • @jimmym2719
      @jimmym2719 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@myriadpro6752 ok, just ordered the ramps1.4 now looking for the exact display becos I don’t have the adaptor sockets for display if I use AnetA8. I will follow your detail video series closely on my built some parts will modify. Thanks bro You r awesome.

    • @myriadpro6752
      @myriadpro6752  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Sure man, just write in the comments if you need any help with setting up the display and firmware

    • @jimmym2719
      @jimmym2719 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@myriadpro6752 what’s the build volume of yr delta? I like it to be shorter. Any suggestions on the 3 pillars & the ball end rods? 250x250x250 build vol. thks

    • @myriadpro6752
      @myriadpro6752  ปีที่แล้ว

      The one on the tutorial is built with 1000mm tall pillars to give a 400mm tall build surface.
      As a rule of thumb you want the pillars to be roughly twice the height of your build volume (e.g 500mm tall pillars for a 250mm tall build volume) but it's good to add an extra 100mm to the pillars just to be safe, so 600mm.
      With a 300 by 300mm square heatbed you should probably get 300mm long carbon or glass fibre rods (those might have to be custom-made as the pre-built ones are about 200mm long).

  • @omtapkir8639
    @omtapkir8639 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Why not klipper?

    • @myriadpro6752
      @myriadpro6752  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I've heard good things about klipper, definitely worth a shot with this printer

    • @omtapkir8639
      @omtapkir8639 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@myriadpro6752 also you can use tmc drivers on ramps
      Uart or standalone yur choice

  • @kushaljhunjhunwala47
    @kushaljhunjhunwala47 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    is the printer build complete or did you stop making these videos?

    • @myriadpro6752
      @myriadpro6752  7 หลายเดือนก่อน

      the rest is basically calibrating and troubleshooting, as much as I would like to add these as extra chapter I think information is easily available online and there's no need for further videos

  • @SangNguyen-se8nb
    @SangNguyen-se8nb ปีที่แล้ว

    hello! I using LCD 2004 module. where to repair?

    • @myriadpro6752
      @myriadpro6752  ปีที่แล้ว

      If you're getting empty blue screen try flipping AUX 1 with AUX 2 ribbon cables or turning the potentiometer

    • @SangNguyen-se8nb
      @SangNguyen-se8nb ปีที่แล้ว

      @@myriadpro6752
      no, I mean: I use 2004 LCD, where do I need to modify in the software?. your 3D printer is using 12864 . lcd

    • @myriadpro6752
      @myriadpro6752  ปีที่แล้ว

      @@SangNguyen-se8nb oh, then it should work ok since both use the same setting on configuration file #define FEATURE_CONTROLLER 11
      if LCD Smartcontroller 2004 isn't working when uploading it to the Mega2560 I'd use the firmware builder at www.repetier.com/firmware/v092/ and build again copying values from the provided code only changing the display controller to "Smartcontroller from RepRapDiscount on a RAMPS or RUMBA board"

  • @Threeaxis3DP
    @Threeaxis3DP ปีที่แล้ว

    sorry, It's done?

    • @myriadpro6752
      @myriadpro6752  ปีที่แล้ว

      yeah this is as far as I'm going with these vids