- 32
- 47 342
Myriad Pro
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2011
Humanized humanity
Build a Delta 3D Printer - Loading firmware into the Arduino M2560
Repetier code download link: drive.google.com/file/d/1j34MIGpbhfNlyhq9YHtHzgKqgv2FDdkZ/view?usp=sharing
The firmware is the program that will send code into the board, interpret it and translate it into motion, temperature adjustment and extrusion. It will be our interface for interacting with the printer and setting up different parameters and settings. There are quite a few firmwares out there, the most popular being Marlin, the thing with Marlin is that although its widely used the code has an overwhelmingly high amount of lines and can be hard to find the right line of code when performing a configuration. We’ll use Repetier for this printer which has a cleaner code that is easier to understand, has great online technical support and a very nice configuration tool maker on its website. You can of course make your own code from scratch but I’ll provide a polished configuration file that you can download and upload to your printer.
To upload the firmware we’ll need the Arduino IDE software which can be downloaded from the arduino website. Once Arduino IDE is installed, open the Repetier.ino file provided on the video, connect the USB cable on the Arduino Mega to your computer using the USB extension cord, the LCD display should now show a blank blue screen, this marks that the Arduino board is empty. On the Arduino IDE under the Tools tab choose Arduino Mega or Mega 2560 for board. As for port it may vary depending on which operating system your working but the board should come up on one of your ports as ttyusb, ttyACM1 or similar. (You may have to grant permission for the operating system to make changes on this device.)
Now click on the upload button on the upper left corner, the software will start loading the firmware into the printer, this might take a minute or so. When uploading is done the LCD should now display a splash screen with the Repetier logo and a main control panel, this means we’ve correctly uploaded the firmware. Should the LCD screen still be blank blue after uploading check the cables going to the Ramps 1.4 and make sure the EXP1 and EXP2 are connected correctly, if the problem persists check the potentiometer in the display and turn it either way with a small flat screwdriver till the display is readable.
Now we can disconnect the USB extension cord from the Arduino Mega and close Arduino IDE software.
The firmware is the program that will send code into the board, interpret it and translate it into motion, temperature adjustment and extrusion. It will be our interface for interacting with the printer and setting up different parameters and settings. There are quite a few firmwares out there, the most popular being Marlin, the thing with Marlin is that although its widely used the code has an overwhelmingly high amount of lines and can be hard to find the right line of code when performing a configuration. We’ll use Repetier for this printer which has a cleaner code that is easier to understand, has great online technical support and a very nice configuration tool maker on its website. You can of course make your own code from scratch but I’ll provide a polished configuration file that you can download and upload to your printer.
To upload the firmware we’ll need the Arduino IDE software which can be downloaded from the arduino website. Once Arduino IDE is installed, open the Repetier.ino file provided on the video, connect the USB cable on the Arduino Mega to your computer using the USB extension cord, the LCD display should now show a blank blue screen, this marks that the Arduino board is empty. On the Arduino IDE under the Tools tab choose Arduino Mega or Mega 2560 for board. As for port it may vary depending on which operating system your working but the board should come up on one of your ports as ttyusb, ttyACM1 or similar. (You may have to grant permission for the operating system to make changes on this device.)
Now click on the upload button on the upper left corner, the software will start loading the firmware into the printer, this might take a minute or so. When uploading is done the LCD should now display a splash screen with the Repetier logo and a main control panel, this means we’ve correctly uploaded the firmware. Should the LCD screen still be blank blue after uploading check the cables going to the Ramps 1.4 and make sure the EXP1 and EXP2 are connected correctly, if the problem persists check the potentiometer in the display and turn it either way with a small flat screwdriver till the display is readable.
Now we can disconnect the USB extension cord from the Arduino Mega and close Arduino IDE software.
มุมมอง: 1 923
วีดีโอ
Build a Delta 3D Printer - Wiring and electronics pt.3
มุมมอง 6592 ปีที่แล้ว
Hotend The hotend has a total of 6 wires, 2 for the heater, 2 for the fan and 2 for the thermistor. We’ll start with the thermistor connecting it to the T0 pins right next to the T1, the clearence may be tight but it is there. The heater cables are not polarity sensitive so connect them either way to the D10 connectors. Now connect the cooling fan cables to the D9 connectors, these are polarity...
Build a Delta 3D Printer - Wiring and electronics pt.2
มุมมอง 1K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Motors and extruder Connecting the four nema 17 motors is pretty straightforward but manufacturers might wire them differently and we might have to find the correct polarity. Start by connecting the 3 sets of cables from the bottom frame to the Ramps 1.4 X, Y and Z pins located in the middle of the board. X and Y have only 4 pins while Z has two sets of 4 pins, we’ll connect to the first line o...
Build a Delta 3D Printer - Wiring and electronics pt.1
มุมมอง 1.3K2 ปีที่แล้ว
3d printers involve a lot of wire and electrical connections, wires get hot and moved around so make sure you’re properly connecting each stripped wire so as to prevent a short circuit. We’ll use a combination of an Arduino Mega 2560 and a Ramps 1.4 board to connect most of the components, this combination is widely used in 3d printers and works well except for it’s heatbed built in mosfet whic...
Build a Delta 3D Printer - Placing the heatbed
มุมมอง 4212 ปีที่แล้ว
The heatbed is the element that will keep our prints in place throughout the printing process, it will help with the adhesion of the first layer and help the prints from warping. It should be noted that some materials like Nylon or ABS are more prone to warping and further measures should be taken from keeping this to happen like PLA slurry or an enclosure. In this case we’ll add a 3mm glass pl...
Build a Delta 3D Printer - Finishing the hotend and extruder
มุมมอง 7252 ปีที่แล้ว
To finish the hotend and extruder we’ll connect the arms to the printed effector using M3 25mm bolts and nuts. Each arm joint should go on one of the six effector side slots. Repeat this process for the six arms and use some M3 bolts, washers and nuts to fix the hotend under the effector. Momentarily remove the cooler fan to tighten the M3 bolts and add it when the hotend and effector are tight...
Build a Delta 3D Printer - Going over the flying extruder
มุมมอง 1K2 ปีที่แล้ว
The same way the hotend can make or break a printer an extruder will define what kind of filaments you can print and how reliable your printer is, if an extruder is not set up correctly it will either strip the filament by biting too hard on it, clog the nozzle by pushing too much material or not print at all. Building a right extruder for a delta is as simple as getting the right distance betw...
Build a Delta 3D Printer - The hotend
มุมมอง 4532 ปีที่แล้ว
To build the hotend we’ll need an effector, a fan mount, a 40mm 12v fan, a PC4 pneumatic fitting, a V6 heatsink, a ptfe lined V6 heatbreak, an aluminum heater block, a 0.6mm nozzle, a 12v 40W heater cartridge, a 100k thermistor, 0.16 copper cable and some kapton tape. The hotend is one of the key parts of our printer, it will have to be able to maintain a constant temperature of around 200 C° o...
Build a Delta 3D Printer - Adding and tightening the GT2 timing belts
มุมมอง 5692 ปีที่แล้ว
The GT2 timing belts will translate the rotation of the nema 17 motors into vertical movement on each tower, the synchronized movement of the three towers will hover the hotend over the build surface, this type of characteristic movement for delta robots was invented in the early 1980’s in Switzerland and is widely used in packaging, medical and pharmaceutical industry. We’ll calculate the belt...
Build a Delta 3D Printer - Finishing the frame
มุมมอง 5822 ปีที่แล้ว
Setting up the frame is a fairly simple process that only requires having your base, top and towers ready. We’ll start with placing the towers into the motor mount sockets. Make sure you’re separating the tower with the cable holder from the other two, this will be your X tower and should match the X slot on your base. The other towers will go on either the Y or Z slot. Align the tower so that ...
Build a Delta 3D Printer - Setting up the towers
มุมมอง 4272 ปีที่แล้ว
The towers will be the vertical elements through which the carriages slide up and down, we’ll use the three 1 meter 2020 aluminum extrusion segments. Let’s prepare our carriages by adding the wheels, we’ll use the 40mm M5 bolts to fix the plastic wheels to the carriages. Do not tighten them all the way, we want to slide them into the towers before that. Add a 20mm M3 bolt to the socket on the t...
Build a Delta 3D Printer - Building the top frame
มุมมอง 5042 ปีที่แล้ว
We’ll slide the power supply along with the power supply bracket through one of the aluminum extrusion segments and fasten it with M4 bolts and nuts. First tighten the bracket by sliding the nut, align it with the holes in the power supply and add the M4 bolt till the power supply bracket sits tightly in the middle of the segment and then slide the power supply with all its cables exiting throu...
Build a Delta 3D Printer - Building the lower frame
มุมมอง 7802 ปีที่แล้ว
We want the frame to be as stable as possible and these 20 by 20 aluminum extrusion do the job very nicely. The space inside each face is almost the same measure as the M4 nuts so we’ll be using this type of M4 to aluminum extrusion connections to fasten our electric components to the frame. The head of the M5 bolts also fits the inner space of the aluminum extrusions very nicely and will be th...
Build a Delta 3D Printer - Bill of Materials
มุมมอง 1.6K2 ปีที่แล้ว
3D printed models download link: drive.google.com/file/d/1ieQkmFPr-jKZUMWxhDOK6PaQNsvV2Zfh/view?usp=sharing Now that we know why we’re building this type of printer we can get right to it. What are we going to need to build our printer? I’ve designed this printer so that it can be built with easy-to-find components and there’s no need to import expensive parts, if something goes wrong we can ea...
Build a Delta 3D Printer - Delta vs Cartesian
มุมมอง 3.3K2 ปีที่แล้ว
As an intro let’s break down the very basics of 3d printing, so, printers consist of the following elements; a hotend that’s capable of melting plastic, an extruder that pushes the plastic filament through that hotend, a series of motors that move the hotend through different XYZ coordinates and a heatbed that keeps the print in it’s place throughout the whole process. Printers rely on two fund...
Build a Delta 3D Printer - Introduction
มุมมอง 1.6K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Build a Delta 3D Printer - Introduction
Albert Hammond, Jr. - Hard To Live (In The City) Slowed Down 0.7
มุมมอง 2864 ปีที่แล้ว
Albert Hammond, Jr. - Hard To Live (In The City) Slowed Down 0.7
Final Fantasy VIII - Balamb Garden Theme Pitched Down
มุมมอง 5044 ปีที่แล้ว
Final Fantasy VIII - Balamb Garden Theme Pitched Down
The Killers - Mr Brightside (Jacques Lu Cont's Then White Duke Remix) Slowed Down
มุมมอง 1.5K4 ปีที่แล้ว
The Killers - Mr Brightside (Jacques Lu Cont's Then White Duke Remix) Slowed Down
Final Fantasy X-2 - Besaid Theme Pitched Down
มุมมอง 1.1K5 ปีที่แล้ว
Final Fantasy X-2 - Besaid Theme Pitched Down
Calosoma - If You'd Only Listened For A While
มุมมอง 15K5 ปีที่แล้ว
Calosoma - If You'd Only Listened For A While
MM7 - Harmondale Theme Slowed Down 1000%
มุมมอง 505 ปีที่แล้ว
MM7 - Harmondale Theme Slowed Down 1000%
me when im finding ducks in a giant tree
Almost everyone came from one gd level💀
Hi, I'm from Brazil. Thank you for sharing this album, I have the original CD that I received from someone very special. besides, all his songs are very special too.
Good to hear, I'm from Argentina, it looks like the CD got sold a lot throughout Latin American record stores!
Is there in instrumental version of this song? I would love to hear it
algo bien
Geometry Dash
Who here came from the portal gauntlet?
WE MAKING IT OUT OF BASOPHOBIA WITH THIS ONE 🗣🗣🔥🔥
Una canción seriamente infravalorada
Ben tren
harikasın,sağol
🧭
Gaaaaaaaaa llevaba buscándola 2 años csm
I want to build this printer but I cant seem to find the "6x 35cm long glass fiber rods" anywhere... is there another name or can you link me something for reference where you found them?
You can either get a long 6mm or 8mm diameter glass fiber rod and then cut it to 6 35cm pieces or either get carbon fiber rods (these ones are a lot harder to cut so get them already cut) Keep in mind you'll always need the ball bearing for whatever type of rod you're using
bro this song is sooo good
GD references?
this is so good
jtard spotted
This song says so much, I was suprised to see that there’s barely any lyrics
This song is now just stuck in my head, thank you Azimuth for introducing me to this masterpiece
same for me
It a masterclass
Its my favorite song 💖❤️💗
Ive still been loving this song for 2 years though
I hate all the new people who listen to this for the first time say "azimuth" or "portal gauntlet" I kinda wish that it was still a less known song
Portal gauntlet🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
@@Reijnzfax
So you hate people for giving more popularity and the recognition it deserves for being such a good song? Ok bro
@@Alienproof_23 it's not quite that
You should be happy, more people are listening to this art.
Is that nether brick stairs spinning in the bottom left corner?
Without glass.. can i use?
Sure, you can print directly on to the heatbed
knots hizo un maravilloso trabajo con este tema
Y si 👍
Hi.. The 3d files seem to have a problem as an error comes up when i import some models in cura. "the highlighted areas indicate either missing or extraneous surfaces". Please help
yeah apologies, some files have not been properly optimized and have small errors on the geometry, it does however affect printability you can just ignore the error message and go ahead and slice
@@myriadpro6752 can you please fix the errors as i am having problems with the part after the print
@@myriadpro6752 bro why did you delete my comment
incredibly underrated, thank you Azimuth for introducing me to this banger
Azimuth
we dying to a fucking compass with this one 🔥🔥🔥
we dying to not holding 🔥🔥🔥
we dying to not letting go 🔥🔥🔥
Relatable
the two types of people
Nice compass
We beating Portal Gauntlet with this one 🔥🔥🔥
We getting Azimuths coin with this one 🔥🔥🔥
We dying to that compass with this one 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Came from find the ducks on roblox originally but I played water gauntlet today and when I heard this song in that level the amount of shock I was in was crazy like I never expected to hear this song on gd its one of my favorite songs ever
Finally that one comment
TO GET THE SWING SKIN 🔥🔥🔥
Portal gauntlet
Compass jumpscare
Hi, very nice printer, but in the files the carriages are different from the video
yeah sorry about that, the carriage has actually been recently updated to improve grip to the vertical tower. see following link: drive.google.com/file/d/1ybpDnPKfUYn--tJDFXdDUjung2ODmpbh/view?usp=sharing
Thanks
is the printer build complete or did you stop making these videos?
the rest is basically calibrating and troubleshooting, as much as I would like to add these as extra chapter I think information is easily available online and there's no need for further videos
1:52 that extra motor is pretty negligible in terms of power usage compared to the heaters.
Granted
who is this singer bro i cant find it anywhere
Its been 2 years since i first heard this song, and it is still genuinely one of the most powerful yet strange and entrancing songs i have ever heard. If the creator of this song can somehow see this, i implore you to make more music like this, i would pay so much money to hear more
Nothing more relaxing like this song.
w music taste
I first heard this song back when games like find the duckies were popular
It's from gd level online
fifnd the ducks reference
true
No pensé que fuera posible encontrarlo slowed, pero siempre hay un friki como yo dispuesto a hacer este tipo de cosas y subirlas jaja gracias♡
Heat creep is actually when heat at or above Tg travels up into the heatbreak, causing premature melting and expansion of the filament which then increases friction in the hotend, causing your extruder to skip
What is the point to introduce 3 new carriages ? You are still using the same motors. Now you have increased complexity, part count and weight. Why not use a flying extruder which attaches to the carriages you already have (since they are driven by the same motors anyway) and using a light Orbiter, Sherpa or similar extruder or about 100g total weight with the nema 14 Motor. The mounting plate is also huge adds weight etc. so I don´t see the benefit here.
Granted the mounting plate could be made smaller to save some grams of PLA, could definitely be an improvement for a newer version. I'm not sure what do you mean with adding 3 new carriages as the flying extruder is already being attached to the existing ones.
@@myriadpro6752 Maybe I misunderstood you then, because I though what you proposing is to introduce 3 new carriages for the extruder, was this incorrect ?
@@sierraecho884 the flying extruder is fixed to the existing 3 carriages, no new nema motors are added for this. hope this is helpful
@@myriadpro6752 Yes it is, thank you. In this case : - try to decrease the distance between extruder and hot end, to have as short of a PTFE tube as possible. Maybe iteratively- - Change the motor to a different build like the Nema 14. Since 70% of the weight will be the motor alone. This has the highest potential for weight saving. - For the straps you can use velcro straps. They might be lighter but they will be easier to use for sure, no glue needed and they are pretty tough nylon. Also no glue needed. - For the fitting use a "push through" fitting, so you can push the PTFE tube right up to the extruder gear wheel for flexible filaments if you want to print any. The same can be done on the other fitting for retractions. It basically restricts the filament path and improves the performance slightly. Besides that, I really like your overall design. I think a flying extruder is a great idea in general. Let me know if you try any of my suggestens and hot it went.
@@sierraecho884 This is great, thanks for the comments, hopefully this design will be further improved by replies like these
es tan increíble ya que Mac puso este cover en su playlist de (another one covers)) SICK AS FUCK BRO!!!!!
i like this
Your video is very helpful, understanding delta and building it. Building the frame now.
I just got the frame parts n fixing. Decided to go 1M as u did. Maybe extend the parallel arm when it arrive😂.what’s ur arm length again?
hey man, glad your going for the taller printer, in my experience you always end up wanting to print bigger stuff, so bigger is better. try extending the parallel arms to 300-350mm as long as they don't become too flimsy and unstable
@@myriadpro6752 well 5mm rod? Maybe will be flimsy
That’s what they have no choice, maybe coaxial it with aluminium or other carbon tubes
@@jimmym2719 5mm diameter for carbon fiber or glass fiber is perfectly fine
@@myriadpro6752 ok 👌
sorry, It's done?
yeah this is as far as I'm going with these vids
THIS IS REALLY GOOD VIDEO, THANK YOU SO MUCH!
I absolutely love this just ordered the second version