Just a quick note, the Mamiya shows almost no CA in that test. What you’re seeing is spherochromatism, which is often confused with CA but very different. CA would show up on the in-focus areas. Spherochromatism only shows up in the bokeh, and gets green behind the focal plane and magenta in front of the focal plane. It can actually be a very useful tool when filming in nature, as it makes the greenery in the background pop a bit more
@@MediaDivision Well, maybe a "sh!tty" video, but I enjoy the music in the background and the way you filmed this video. But, OK, I'm gonna watch your episode #4! th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html ... thank you! ;-)
I've done something similar with my old Minolta Lenses. Bout a Fotodiox Adapter for thr MD yo EF mount and I think video comes out really nice on thosr olf MD Mount lenses.
@@MediaDivision I shoot with a 5D mark III and an 80D. I can't afford the cinema caneras. But I have been wanting to try medium format lenses on my DSLRS.
Thanks... you should rather watch the main episode th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html or maybe the Canon FD one to stay on brand ;-) th-cam.com/video/v8Il_l3tu6Q/w-d-xo.html
What would be the advantage of using a Kipon speed booster on Full Frame? What would change? It is a bit pricey like 700 euros. So would be nice to know if it is worth it... :)
It does the same for medium format lenses to full frame what a Full frame focal reducer does for super35. decrese the focal length and increase the lens speed by the factor written on it. Watch this: th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html
Hi, first thing: I love your channel. My Kipon just arrived, and I check my lenses on my Sony Fx6. 45,55,80,110,210. Amazing. But the 210mm f4 has a huge vignette. Have you tried ? It’s always like that or maybe it’s just my 210 ?
thnaks.. as you can see here, the 210mm with the kipon shows no vignetting on FF th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html As to be expected... shorter focal length vignette more than longer... if there was a problem at all, I would expect it with the 35mmm (doesn't either)
Have you converted any other makes of lenses to EF mount for the EVA (ex: Leica R, Canon FD, Contax, etc.)? If so, did you just use a dumb adapter (if so, which) or did you have to physically change the back mount of the lens? (if so, which EF conversion kit)
For the Mamiyas you may want to watch this th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html I will upload an extensive episode about contax Zeiss in two weeks... that is way more fitting for EVA1
Great video, I just want to know the equivalence between medium format and 35mm sensor. For example if I use a 80mm MF lens on a 35mm sensor, what will be the field of view equivalence with 35mm lenses. Hope my question is understandable.
Thanks Sylvain. This is an old video and I made a extensive and detailed video about the subject released just a couple days ago: th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html Maybe this will answer about everything and has tes tfootage comparing MFT boosted vs s35 vs FF vs FF boosted. But to answer your question: an 80mm designed for s35 will have the exact same field of view as a 80mm designed for IMAX in case you put both on a s35. Only a focal reducer (booster) or a different sized sensor changes the field of view. For example IF you have a medium format sensor, a 80mm medium format lens will give about the same FOV as a 50mm on a full frame, or a 35mm on a s35mm, or a 25mm on a MFT.
Aryan Dev 1 I usually use Sigma art lenses (cheap and sharp) and I collect Mamiya 645 lenses for a larger format future. 2 I’m not sure what you mean... I talk about all things Eva extensively here: th-cam.com/video/Litt3lfUOuY/w-d-xo.html
Great vid! Thanks for the info! Can you post the link in the description to the adapter that you put on the lens before putting it on the camera please?
Thanks. It is a very generic one like this, but I can not recommend it, it has to much play. Just hang on a couple of days, I am preparing a epic Episode about shooting medium format lenses (Mamiya 645 set) with practical advice, footage, speedboosting, servicing… and adapters. I will release that in the next few days. That might be interesting for you. Just subscribe and activate the bell … you can't miss it then ;-)
Don’t watch the quick test… watch the long episode about the set. th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html There is a Kipon to Nikon Z… focal reducers work for short flange mounts only… no boosters for PL, EF, F and so on. www.amazon.com/Kipon-Reducer-Adapter-Speedbooster-Mamiya/dp/B086MNYYCX
80mm is 80mm is 80mm.... no matter what the format of the sensor. Different formats have different fields of view on different sensor format. This one is practical: www.pointsinfocus.com/tools/depth-of-field-and-equivalent-lens-calculator/
This video was upgraded to this one th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html If you use a EF camera without a Mirror (Canon C, EVA1, BMD Ursa Mini) you could built your own one that is protruding into the mount. Would be a cool project.
@@MediaDivision Thanks but I wouldn't even know where to begin with a build. I have a Ursa mini 4.6k and I'm waiting for a Zeiss Jena Biometar 2.8/80mm "zebra" lens I bought off Ebay to arrive and would love to be able to build a speedbooster for that combo.
Get a dumb adapter with the desired mounts, get any focal reducer with the desired size and factor, remove the optics from that, 3D pint holder for the optics to fit inside the dumb adapter… the lens element needs to have the same position relative to the sensor, that it had in the original focal reducer… good luck.
Wait… there is a focal reducer for the URSA mini … th-cam.com/video/3DXDyudvCYg/w-d-xo.html Now all you need is a plain adapter. Of course, that will only give you the full image projection of medium format
@@MediaDivision ok so get a Pentacon 6 to EOS adapter and a Metabones speedbooster Ultra 0.71 to let's say MFT mount... 3D print an insert to fit inside the p6 to eos adapter to hold the glass element taken from the speedbooster. Make sure the element is relatively the same distance to the Ursa sensor and Boom!!! That's it??? Seems a little involved but just might work... Thanks!
Late to the party but you inspired me to grab and mod a few Contax Zeiss lenses, so thought I’d ask. Do you think it’s feasible to use, say, the 80mm Mamiya and a 28mm or 35mm Contax Zeiss on the same project and have them match? Or are their characteristics significantly different? I’m considering having a small mixed set of vintage glass, at least until I can afford to get dedicatedly sets of both. Thanks for the great content!
Hi, great video as always. Was wondering if you can use this lens on a Nikon D850 witha speed booster and if so where to find the booster and what would the f stop be? Thanks in advance Chris
Thanks... I should delete this. We got an extended Medium Format episode online here th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html Nikon G850 is an F mount... so long flange. There are only focal reducers for short flange possible... unless you build your own that protrudes into the camera body ... of course the mirror will not work that way. Like with any focal reducer, the factor written on the lens multiplied with focal lengths or fstop will give the spec of the new system. So, in case of a f1.9 that is (x0.7) f1.3
For me the Sigma lenses, whilst sharper and having better CA control, look very flat generally and lack micro contrast when compared to a lot of other lenses (the Nikkor 105mm f/1.4e vs Sigma 105mm f/1.4 Art is a good comparison)
Yes... as I say in the video.... the the ears sharpness to evaluate overall sharpness. If you want to know what that lens can do in terms of resolving details... here is a 12K video th-cam.com/video/HN29l3ouR64/w-d-xo.html
@@MediaDivision Yep, I noticed that. But even in the other video, the Mamiya despite being sharper has this inherent smoothness to it...that makes things look less digital. Do you agree?
@@MediaDivision Right. That's the nature of old manual lenses to newer DSLR lenses, I suppose. Anyhow, always interesting to see the content you post :)
@@MediaDivision actually they do quite a bit : how they capture the light, how much of ti, how much they flare, how dreamy/sharp they are, how saturated the colors are etc. I like my takumars and my minoltas on my GH5ii for a lot of these reasons. They are less "clinical" than my modern Leicas 😊
Great comparision, always wondered how my Bronica 645 lenses would work with a converter although I have nothing quite this fast! So the new Sigma Art series lenses are the real deal and my thoughts that... they don't make lenses as good as they use to is just a myth!! Thx 🍻
Thank you Richard. The Sigma Art line is as good as it gets IMHO... of course, with all the quirks that you get filming with stills lenses. But having said that... there is something terrible about perfection. This is really for people that embrace imperfections and look for something that has it's own poetry.
Just a quick note, the Mamiya shows almost no CA in that test. What you’re seeing is spherochromatism, which is often confused with CA but very different. CA would show up on the in-focus areas. Spherochromatism only shows up in the bokeh, and gets green behind the focal plane and magenta in front of the focal plane. It can actually be a very useful tool when filming in nature, as it makes the greenery in the background pop a bit more
I'm watching an "old" video of my favorite perfectionist TH-camr ... and I enjoy it!
don't watch that… it's sheit… watch the epic Mamiya episode instead… there is some information to be found.
@@MediaDivision Well, maybe a "sh!tty" video, but I enjoy the music in the background and the way you filmed this video. But, OK, I'm gonna watch your episode #4!
th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html ... thank you! ;-)
That's the spirit!!!
@@MediaDivision Indeed, my good sir! Hahaha! ;-)
Once I get my filmmaking job back (end of quarantine) I'll definetely do that!
Don't watch this………… it is oooold crap
Media Division lol 😂 at least the adapter is cheap now
Quarantine added about $200+ value to that mamiya 80mm 1.9 -- Good investment
I don't think it was the quarantine. I think it was our full length episode about the lineup and that lens specifically
I've done something similar with my old Minolta Lenses. Bout a Fotodiox Adapter for thr MD yo EF mount and I think video comes out really nice on thosr olf MD Mount lenses.
yeah.... very nice glass out there for cheap... if you are willing to sacrifice electrics. I go for medium format as LF cameras will come for sure.
@@MediaDivision I shoot with a 5D mark III and an 80D. I can't afford the cinema caneras. But I have been wanting to try medium format lenses on my DSLRS.
thanks for review, i think use on EOS R.
Thanks... you should rather watch the main episode th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html or maybe the Canon FD one to stay on brand ;-) th-cam.com/video/v8Il_l3tu6Q/w-d-xo.html
make a video review of the kipon adapter
I will.... together with a Letus Anamorphic and a full flame cine Cam. Do it yourself Ultra Panavision 70 ;-)
What would be the advantage of using a Kipon speed booster on Full Frame? What would change? It is a bit pricey like 700 euros. So would be nice to know if it is worth it... :)
It does the same for medium format lenses to full frame what a Full frame focal reducer does for super35. decrese the focal length and increase the lens speed by the factor written on it. Watch this: th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html
@@MediaDivision Ah ok thanks !
Hi, first thing: I love your channel. My Kipon just arrived, and I check my lenses on my Sony Fx6. 45,55,80,110,210. Amazing. But the 210mm f4 has a huge vignette. Have you tried ? It’s always like that or maybe it’s just my 210 ?
thnaks.. as you can see here, the 210mm with the kipon shows no vignetting on FF th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html
As to be expected... shorter focal length vignette more than longer... if there was a problem at all, I would expect it with the 35mmm (doesn't either)
Have you converted any other makes of lenses to EF mount for the EVA (ex: Leica R, Canon FD, Contax, etc.)? If so, did you just use a dumb adapter (if so, which) or did you have to physically change the back mount of the lens? (if so, which EF conversion kit)
For the Mamiyas you may want to watch this th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html
I will upload an extensive episode about contax Zeiss in two weeks... that is way more fitting for EVA1
Great video, I just want to know the equivalence between medium format and 35mm sensor.
For example if I use a 80mm MF lens on a 35mm sensor, what will be the field of view equivalence with 35mm lenses.
Hope my question is understandable.
Thanks Sylvain. This is an old video and I made a extensive and detailed video about the subject released just a couple days ago:
th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html
Maybe this will answer about everything and has tes tfootage comparing MFT boosted vs s35 vs FF vs FF boosted.
But to answer your question: an 80mm designed for s35 will have the exact same field of view as a 80mm designed for IMAX in case you put both on a s35. Only a focal reducer (booster) or a different sized sensor changes the field of view. For example IF you have a medium format sensor, a 80mm medium format lens will give about the same FOV as a 50mm on a full frame, or a 35mm on a s35mm, or a 25mm on a MFT.
hey sir i saw ur couple of videos about eva 1.
i want to more about like
1- what lens you use
2- how to fix drawback of eva 1
Aryan Dev 1 I usually use Sigma art lenses (cheap and sharp) and I collect Mamiya 645 lenses for a larger format future.
2 I’m not sure what you mean... I talk about all things Eva extensively here: th-cam.com/video/Litt3lfUOuY/w-d-xo.html
Great vid! Thanks for the info! Can you post the link in the description to the adapter that you put on the lens before putting it on the camera please?
Thanks. It is a very generic one like this, but I can not recommend it, it has to much play. Just hang on a couple of days, I am preparing a epic Episode about shooting medium format lenses (Mamiya 645 set) with practical advice, footage, speedboosting, servicing… and adapters. I will release that in the next few days. That might be interesting for you. Just subscribe and activate the bell … you can't miss it then ;-)
www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00D1PIKXK
Thank you for this informative video as always , an out of topic question 😅 what's the background music ?
really good video, shame there is not a speedbooster for med to full frame nikon.
Don’t watch the quick test… watch the long episode about the set. th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html
There is a Kipon to Nikon Z… focal reducers work for short flange mounts only… no boosters for PL, EF, F and so on. www.amazon.com/Kipon-Reducer-Adapter-Speedbooster-Mamiya/dp/B086MNYYCX
What would 80mm equate to on a full frame sensor? 😀😀🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
80mm is 80mm is 80mm.... no matter what the format of the sensor. Different formats have different fields of view on different sensor format.
This one is practical:
www.pointsinfocus.com/tools/depth-of-field-and-equivalent-lens-calculator/
Man I wish there was a speed booster for medium format lenses to canon EF mount.
This video was upgraded to this one th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html
If you use a EF camera without a Mirror (Canon C, EVA1, BMD Ursa Mini) you could built your own one that is protruding into the mount. Would be a cool project.
@@MediaDivision Thanks but I wouldn't even know where to begin with a build. I have a Ursa mini 4.6k and I'm waiting for a Zeiss Jena Biometar 2.8/80mm "zebra" lens I bought off Ebay to arrive and would love to be able to build a speedbooster for that combo.
Get a dumb adapter with the desired mounts, get any focal reducer with the desired size and factor, remove the optics from that, 3D pint holder for the optics to fit inside the dumb adapter… the lens element needs to have the same position relative to the sensor, that it had in the original focal reducer… good luck.
Wait… there is a focal reducer for the URSA mini … th-cam.com/video/3DXDyudvCYg/w-d-xo.html
Now all you need is a plain adapter.
Of course, that will only give you the full image projection of medium format
@@MediaDivision ok so get a Pentacon 6 to EOS adapter and a Metabones speedbooster Ultra 0.71 to let's say MFT mount... 3D print an insert to fit inside the p6 to eos adapter to hold the glass element taken from the speedbooster. Make sure the element is relatively the same distance to the Ursa sensor and Boom!!! That's it??? Seems a little involved but just might work... Thanks!
which do u like best ? : Contax zeiss set or Mamiya Sekor C set . About sharpen, skin tone. Thank you ^^
Different sets... different occasions. The Contax are better build and more practical. If I had to choose one.... Contax
Media Division Thank you. I will buy Contax Zeiss.
Late to the party but you inspired me to grab and mod a few Contax Zeiss lenses, so thought I’d ask.
Do you think it’s feasible to use, say, the 80mm Mamiya and a 28mm or 35mm Contax Zeiss on the same project and have them match? Or are their characteristics significantly different? I’m considering having a small mixed set of vintage glass, at least until I can afford to get dedicatedly sets of both. Thanks for the great content!
Thanks man... yea, sure, no problem. Bokeh will have a different orientation but who cares. The wider Mamiyas have way stronger barrel distortion.
Media Division - Right on, thanks for the insight. Looking forward to a feature length doc on Leica R’s from you in the near future 😁
@@Swexicaan Don't know... the canon FD underperforms. So, we will probably go less specific
Media Division - shame. If I’m ever able to EP a vintage lens feature I’ll let you know
@@Swexicaan yep... please do... thanks man
Hi, great video as always. Was wondering if you can use this lens on a Nikon D850 witha speed booster and if so where to find the booster and what would the f stop be?
Thanks in advance
Chris
Thanks... I should delete this. We got an extended Medium Format episode online here th-cam.com/video/ntohzgTm5Lo/w-d-xo.html
Nikon G850 is an F mount... so long flange. There are only focal reducers for short flange possible... unless you build your own that protrudes into the camera body ... of course the mirror will not work that way. Like with any focal reducer, the factor written on the lens multiplied with focal lengths or fstop will give the spec of the new system. So, in case of a f1.9 that is (x0.7) f1.3
For me the Sigma lenses, whilst sharper and having better CA control, look very flat generally and lack micro contrast when compared to a lot of other lenses (the Nikkor 105mm f/1.4e vs Sigma 105mm f/1.4 Art is a good comparison)
Wow niiice man. And btw you should be in film. In front of a camera. 😎
Naaaaa.... tried that A M..... I am terrible. Much better behind the camera
The focus of the Mamiya was on your ear
Yes... as I say in the video.... the the ears sharpness to evaluate overall sharpness. If you want to know what that lens can do in terms of resolving details... here is a 12K video th-cam.com/video/HN29l3ouR64/w-d-xo.html
The image coming out of Mamiya is so organic. Though not as sharp...but sharpness was never the only factor, was it ? :)
I missed the focus a bit… look at the beard. The Mamiya is tad sharp at f4… look at this sample shots: th-cam.com/video/HN29l3ouR64/w-d-xo.html
@@MediaDivision Yep, I noticed that. But even in the other video, the Mamiya despite being sharper has this inherent smoothness to it...that makes things look less digital. Do you agree?
@@nanditdesai3384 to a certain extend… yes. it is certainly not a clinically sharp as a Sigma Art is.
@@MediaDivision Right. That's the nature of old manual lenses to newer DSLR lenses, I suppose. Anyhow, always interesting to see the content you post :)
@@nanditdesai3384 Thanks Nandit
Prices have increased substantially since, 😳🤔😱
With most vintage lenses... yes
@@MediaDivision thanks guys. I am getting a bunch of Mamiyas now... I really don't need them but you sold me on them! 😂
Have fun… hope you enjoy. Don’t buy before you watched the main episode and be aware that lenses do little
@@MediaDivision actually they do quite a bit : how they capture the light, how much of ti, how much they flare, how dreamy/sharp they are, how saturated the colors are etc. I like my takumars and my minoltas on my GH5ii for a lot of these reasons. They are less "clinical" than my modern Leicas 😊
Don’t tell… I wrote the book on the subject
Great comparision, always wondered how my Bronica 645 lenses would work with a converter although I have nothing quite this fast! So the new Sigma Art series lenses are the real deal and my thoughts that... they don't make lenses as good as they use to is just a myth!! Thx 🍻
Thank you Richard. The Sigma Art line is as good as it gets IMHO... of course, with all the quirks that you get filming with stills lenses. But having said that... there is something terrible about perfection. This is really for people that embrace imperfections and look for something that has it's own poetry.
Yeah, $250...
What???? Markets have not been stable for 5 years? Scandalous
@@MediaDivision That`s a fast response :) Obviously it will be growing in price. More people talk about it - higher demand - higher price
And sometimes they go down… btw. Don’t watch this one… we have a full sophisticated episode about 645 lenses
Seen it
Thats the spirit! 😁@@muralboletube