You should perform: 1) The Voltage test on the AC outlet/Hardwire output terminals to find out if it has floating Neutral or not. 2) Can the Neutral be bonded to Ground without damaging the inverter or not.
Excellent presentation. Thank you. To save space, I have honestly been looking to replace my power station with an inverter. Most of my stuff for car/van/truck camping is 12-14v so I only occasionally need 120v and USB. That said, I need USB-A and USB-C at decent wattage's. Would be almost perfect if it had a 100w USB-C out.
They have some decent usba and c outlets on amazon, but I have not found any above 65 watts. I got some for my trailer, and they do charge at 60 watts from the usbc, I dont have any usba things that take more than 11 or 12 watts, the usb a output claims to be a 3.0. It does fast charge my phone at about 12 watts.
Watched loads of your videos and love how you like to have an experimental take on things. I have a suggestion for a video. Converting one of the inverters you got sent to test to a wifi on/off switch, not just a wired remote, via one of the cheap wifi boards ESP8266. One can turn on and off loads via a wifi inexpensive remote socket but I can't find a cheap way to turn of the DC to the inverter via wifi apart from using a relay on the remote switch via the ESP8266 board or similar. Any way I just think you'd do a great video on it and I reckon loads of people with inverters would love to convert to wifi on/off via phone app via cheap board
Lot of inverters have USB ports now that are active even in the inverter is 'off' so can be used to power the board controlling the remote switch wifi relay at 5v
That would be a good video, but I don't know how many people would be interested in getting all of that in place. I need to do some digging. Thanks for the comment!
Seems pretty good, but with two questions, are the internal fuses plug-in, or solder-in, and is there any way to raise the output Voltage up to 120V while at, or near rated load? A washing machine we have will quit (the electronics, I guess) if the Voltage drops down around 110 V, such as when the spin cycle begins. Looked for these answers on the sales info with no success. Thanks.
@@retrozmachine1189 No burns. The product is used at full power at normal room temperature at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It may be a little higher in summer when the weather temperature is higher.
@@Ada-233-q2s 190A or so through 4AWG (approx 21mm2) will settle at somewhere around 140C (that's around 284F). That's a little burny in my opinion. Perhaps your hands are made of concrete and won't be harmed?
@@Ada-233-q2s Reviewer states 4 AWG. Even if it is 2 AWG the operating temperature will settle at 105C or there abouts. That's still something that will cause severe burns.
Measure the voltage at the inverter's DC terminals, not the battery. You will have voltage drop across the wires. There is internal wiring / bars as well so there will be additional drop there so expect that the meter reads lower than what is seen at the inverter's terminals, and of course the meter in these things is going to be cheap and not calibrated in any sane way so it's not going to be particularly accurate even if you supply regulated DC direct on it's terminals. All this applies to the AC output too. Basically anything shown on the display is questionable but good enough for casual purposes. When load testing, remember the power factor of what you power with the inverter makes a difference.
Cheap high frequency, transformerless inverters like these don't use an output transformer to provide galvanic isolation between its DC boost stage and its AC output and because of this, it can not only damage your your home's appliances, it can set your appliances on fire during a catastrophic failure of its H-Bridge circuit. You really need to dump that low cost inverter and buy a real inverter that uses low frequency, transformer based technology.
These inverters are good for a temporary solution. Incase of a power outage and you want to power some critical loads for a bit. If you live permanently off grid then a low frequency would be best. Thanks for the comment!
BOYYY CHINA REALLY KNOWS HOW TO NAME THERE PRODUCTS LOL MY MFUZOP 1500WATT INVERTER IS GREAT BUT WHAT KIND OF NAME IS THAT LOL SAME WITH THIS ONE YOUR REVIEWING
You should perform:
1) The Voltage test on the AC outlet/Hardwire output terminals to find out if it has floating Neutral or not.
2) Can the Neutral be bonded to Ground without damaging the inverter or not.
Also, idle current draw.
@@donbrloks3959 At ~7:48, he states ...".9 Amps, or right around 12 Watts, or so."
That's a good point. Thanks for the suggestion. I didn't really get into the hardwire option of the inverter very much.
With all do respect @ 13:55
THATS WHAT SHE SAID !! LOL
Excellent presentation. Thank you. To save space, I have honestly been looking to replace my power station with an inverter. Most of my stuff for car/van/truck camping is 12-14v so I only occasionally need 120v and USB. That said, I need USB-A and USB-C at decent wattage's. Would be almost perfect if it had a 100w USB-C out.
They have some decent usba and c outlets on amazon, but I have not found any above 65 watts. I got some for my trailer, and they do charge at 60 watts from the usbc, I dont have any usba things that take more than 11 or 12 watts, the usb a output claims to be a 3.0. It does fast charge my phone at about 12 watts.
@@jw3843 Yes, one of the Type C is 60w, not 65w. The other is 45w.
You're right. I think usb-c 3.2 can do 140w now... Don't know if that's correct, but the technology is growing fast!
Watched loads of your videos and love how you like to have an experimental take on things. I have a suggestion for a video. Converting one of the inverters you got sent to test to a wifi on/off switch, not just a wired remote, via one of the cheap wifi boards ESP8266. One can turn on and off loads via a wifi inexpensive remote socket but I can't find a cheap way to turn of the DC to the inverter via wifi apart from using a relay on the remote switch via the ESP8266 board or similar. Any way I just think you'd do a great video on it and I reckon loads of people with inverters would love to convert to wifi on/off via phone app via cheap board
Lot of inverters have USB ports now that are active even in the inverter is 'off' so can be used to power the board controlling the remote switch wifi relay at 5v
That would be a good video, but I don't know how many people would be interested in getting all of that in place. I need to do some digging. Thanks for the comment!
I would have like to have seen the actual AC voltage measured at an AC outlet to compare to the 112 VAC indicated on the inverter.
All this technology and an extendable antenna on the remote? That's funny. (but it does make a useful pointer for your video LOL)
Yes it does! Thanks for the comment.
Seems pretty good, but with two questions, are the internal fuses plug-in, or solder-in, and is there any way to raise the output Voltage up to 120V while at, or near rated load? A washing machine we have will quit (the electronics, I guess) if the Voltage drops down around 110 V, such as when the spin cycle begins. Looked for these answers on the sales info with no success. Thanks.
Hi,the fuse is a plug-in type. The washing machine will not stop.
The inverter fuses are plug in. Not sure about the adjustable voltage.
90+ amps through those dinky wires.... you are brave
Hopefully high temperature insulation and you definitely wouldn't want to touch them under high load - a bit burny.
@@retrozmachine1189 No burns. The product is used at full power at normal room temperature at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It may be a little higher in summer when the weather temperature is higher.
@@Ada-233-q2s 190A or so through 4AWG (approx 21mm2) will settle at somewhere around 140C (that's around 284F). That's a little burny in my opinion. Perhaps your hands are made of concrete and won't be harmed?
@@retrozmachine1189 hhhh The wire is 2 AWG not 4 AWG,
@@Ada-233-q2s Reviewer states 4 AWG. Even if it is 2 AWG the operating temperature will settle at 105C or there abouts. That's still something that will cause severe burns.
Measure the voltage at the inverter's DC terminals, not the battery. You will have voltage drop across the wires. There is internal wiring / bars as well so there will be additional drop there so expect that the meter reads lower than what is seen at the inverter's terminals, and of course the meter in these things is going to be cheap and not calibrated in any sane way so it's not going to be particularly accurate even if you supply regulated DC direct on it's terminals. All this applies to the AC output too. Basically anything shown on the display is questionable but good enough for casual purposes.
When load testing, remember the power factor of what you power with the inverter makes a difference.
Thank you for the great information. I'll definitely start checking the voltage at the inverter connection. Thanks again!
What is the idle current / Power?
I measured .6A @ 13v. That's about 7-8 watts. Hope this helps.
Cheap high frequency, transformerless inverters like these don't use an output transformer to provide galvanic isolation between its DC boost stage and its AC output and because of this, it can not only damage your your home's appliances, it can set your appliances on fire during a catastrophic failure of its H-Bridge circuit. You really need to dump that low cost inverter and buy a real inverter that uses low frequency, transformer based technology.
These inverters are good for a temporary solution. Incase of a power outage and you want to power some critical loads for a bit. If you live permanently off grid then a low frequency would be best. Thanks for the comment!
hell yeah i wish i was rich and could afford a new inverter every other week
BOYYY CHINA REALLY KNOWS HOW TO NAME THERE PRODUCTS LOL MY MFUZOP 1500WATT INVERTER IS GREAT BUT WHAT KIND OF NAME IS THAT LOL SAME WITH THIS ONE YOUR REVIEWING
I know. Some of these names are impossible to pronounce, let alone remember.