Building a 13,000 Watt Split-Phase Solar Power System, Off-Grid!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มิ.ย. 2024
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Today I'll be showing how I built a 13,000 watt power system using four SOK LiFePO4 rack batteries and a pair of MPP Solar 6500 watt inverters. The power system is capable of split-phase output and can power pretty much anything in the standard home.
WARNING: Lithium batteries are dangerous and can result in fire! This video is NOT intended to be instructional or a "how-to" lesson. I am not a professional. Do not attempt anything you see here without first contacting a certified and/or licensed professional.
Chapters:
00:00 Introduction
00:48 Inverter Mounting
02:19 AC Breaker Panel
02:37 Fuses & Busbars
05:37 AC Conduits
06:40 DC Cabling
08:39 AC Wiring
10:58 Ground/Neutral Bond
12:42 Main DC Cabling
13:59 Communication Cables
14:45 Startup Procedure
16:30 Split-Phase Setup
18:40 Idle Consumption
19:06 Voltage Parameters
19:42 Clothes Dryer Test
20:31 Final Thoughts
Recommended Stores: (Using these links helps support this channel)
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SanTan Solar... www.santansolar.com/?ref=lsolar
Battery Hookup... batteryhookup.com/discount/BA...
Batrium BMS... www.batrium.com/
Contact Info:
My business email is lithiumsolardiy@gmail.com. You may contact me for sponsorships, product reviews, business-related questions, or any similar reason. I am not available for personal project questions or consultation. I will not respond to these emails.
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Disclaimers and Statements:
► I receive a small commission on purchases made using my affiliated links shared the video description and comments section. The views and opinions expressed here are my own, unbiased, and not influenced by this commission in any way.
► My videos are in no way intended to be instructional "how-to" lessons. I am simply documenting my project for informational purposes. Property damage, personal injury, or death may result, even when following manufacturer's instructions. I cannot be held liable for such damage or injury. It is YOUR OBLIGATION to ensure that you are complying with any local and federal laws as well as code and permit requirements. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
When dealing with a split phase system, always keep your cables at the same length. If both your ground and power cable on one inverter is six foot, then on the other inverter do the same. This keeps both inverters in sink better. If not one inverter will run with less voltage, watts, and ohms while the other inverter is pushing more. In a solar system everything has to be equal. Your running on batteries and panels. Totally different from a grid type system. Just a little fault means the difference of having to replace something. When working with electrical always remember the water hose example. The longer the hose the less pressure of water coming from the hose, the shorter the hose the more pressure coming from the hose. I had to learn the hard way and now I have a system that runs pretty good. Note: also you want to keep all your cables on your batteries the same link as well.
I noticed his very same design flaw, not only lithiums system but one that Will Prowse put together,
Luckily I caught this before I put my split face together, and I agree, I ran my battery cables the same length as well.
Would love to know how you "learned this the hard way." All U.S. homes are split phase and the wiring and loads are never identical and 50/50. By your logic transformers should be failing on service poles at alarming rates.
@@cyumadbrosummit3534 First off your funny with you sarcastic response. Yes nothing is ever identical but in electric you want to keep them as identical as you can. 4 Foot wire for power use a 4 foot wire for ground. If you are using 2 inverters to get your 220/240 ac, use all the same size wires. What I meant about learning it the hard ways was that when you have 2 systems running 220/240 ac and one of your inverters has longer wires then the other you will notice higher amps running to one and lower amps running to the others, so far so that in some cases you will start to burn out terminals and other connecting areas for wires. I lost a whole inverter because of higher amps burning out the terminals. So now everything is the same all is pre cut and clamp. Electrical can be unpredictable and items burn out. Had to redo my whole entire system. Of course this was back when solar was first being used. I have learned a lot in the many years I have work with solar and grid systems.
@@cyumadbrosummit3534 - I'm no electrician, but I think a fair analysis is that on a Utility Line split phase, both the continuous amount of source voltage/ current, and the size of Step Down transformers utilized en-route to your house are capable of minimizing resistance loss to near zero. And I also believe that on an inverter system, small differences in wire length have a near zero impact on power transmission loss due to resistance (or inverter performance).
But it's clear that such a system is far less capable of compensating for any loss than the Grid, so it's probably best to get the wires as close as possible to the same length (if at all possible). On my setup I'm going to try to do exactly that. They won't be exactly the same length, but they will be less than 2 feet in difference (with 4/0 copper battery wire and 4AWG to the panel). And you can have greater differences in wire length (and less voltage drop) when you utilize larger gauge wire (obviously).
@@jamesrcoleii4577 I can't speak for the system you may have had years ago, but the system shown in the video has the two inverters operating independently and as such there is no need for the cable lengths going from the bus bars to the inverters to be similar. They don't have any load sharing going on so there is no way for one to be favored due to cable length. The only place you should ensure cables are of similar length here is for multiple paralleled batteries going to those DC bus bars. This is mostly covered in the video by pulling the negative and positive from opposite corners of the battery packs. That is an industry standard way of connecting four batteries together for moderately good load sharing, though not quite as good as having each battery have an equal length cable to the DC bus bar.
I give a warning on those class T fuse connectors. I used this style for hooking up my bare wires, The wires had slipped and melted and almost caused a fire.
Since then I only use wires with copper lugs attached to them. No problem since. 🖖
Thanks for the fantastic video. I recognise and appreciate the extra amount of time it takes to film a setup like this :)
Seriously best video I’ve seen so far regarding setting up an off grid system. I’ve watched 100s of videos and not one goes into detail or provides the step by step setup that you describe in your video. You legit gave me the confidence and peace of mind to be able to try this type of setup. Thank you so much. Please keep posting in the same manner with the same level of detail! I am sure I speak for everyone here when I say something thank you for the clarity and ease of understanding.
Beautiful set up nice wiring everything its clean and easy to read without drawings
Nice job changing the main bonding jumper to a #6! I also like how you finished the run to the source of the inverters in #6. I believe the EMT should have a bonding bushing with the main bonding jumper attached since you are extending the run from the inverters to the electrical box. Otherwise, it looks really good.
Nice clean setup and great detailed description about what you did and why. Thank you for sharing!
For your question about swiches/breakers at 4:50 I used MCCB molded case 2P beakers from TAIXI for about $100- these are available in 200/300/400 A DC-rated configuration. I also (like you) installed the T-Class fuses, since the breaker is mostly used as a convenient disconnect while the T-Class is for safety. Great Vid, keep em coming.
Thanks for the advice about getting someone to do it for me, I'm so ignorant but love to watch anyway.
Like to see, neat. Many DIY TH-cam videos do not not apply neatness.
Neatness is one of the keys to safety. Having cables going everywhere, getting tripped on, bumped, etc is a safety hazard for a number of reasons!
I was trained early in highschool wiring homes, next wiring military aircraft, last wiring helicopters for geophysics surveying. Always, every wire in braided wires, is neatly cut, before bonding to a clamp. For example, if you have a 12 wire strand, you can loose only 2 strands. In gauges 0 to 10, it’s not discussed by in data wiring it’s crucial. In a Tesla car, with very high currents, wiring curves dramatically affect power transmission. New DC charging systems, for Cybertruck and Semi truck are 1 giga watt at 1,000 volts, and you can imagine the field flux of these wires. For those serious, about charging Tesla vehicles at fast rates should understand neatness of wiring.
Looks super clean!!!
I suspect the difference in amps on the inverter is because the dryer motor is probably 120 volts? So it would be plausible that one inverter might bear a little larger load because of that.
I think you're exactly right. I'll have to put the clamp meter on the neutral and check.
Yes, the drum motor is 120V. Plus all the other electronics is 120V as well, or at least pulls from 1 leg and then regulated from there.
So yeah, I agree with this assessment
@Danang Alta The heating element is 240V, everything else (motor, lights, control circuits) are likely 120V.
Fantastic video that’s a lot for the help
Really a big help
Very nice and neat setup
I wish I stayed with MPP instead of going with signature solar for my 6000ex I never had any issues with my LV2424 and if I did I had a answer within 24 hours Great costumer service
Great video, a lot of great info. I would love to see how to set up a grid tied system, thanks Matt
SOK Rack Batteries... www.currentconnected.com/product/sk48v100/?ref=lithiumsolar (affiliate links)
MPP Solar Inverter... www.currentconnected.com/product/mpp-lv6548/?ref=lithiumsolar
Let me know what you think! Also yes, I know I did not connect any solar panels in the video and yes, I know grounding was not discussed.
Try XW4868 have 3 each for 18kw for 15 years
The drier tumble motor normally operates on one leg (120). My drier pulls around 1.3-4 amps extra on one leg. The delta drops as the clothes dry and the tumble motor draws less amps.
I use IotaWatt to monitor my AC consumption.
Very good quality install, that system would be great for small cabin, fine job fine job. Can only dream about having that system. I have 400w panels, 400ah agm batteries and 1000w inverter. Keep putting out the great info.
SUPER IDEA . SUPER POMYSŁ . POZDRAWIAM .
Nice clean setup. You do a great job of explaining the whole installation. First I would say the unit can take 4 awg. It’s a royal pain to get in there. I covered it in a video I made after I installed my 2 lv6548’s. The reason they recommend the gauge is mostly due to the surge in my opinion. But it’s worth the effort I would say. Even more so for the input. Although I realize you won’t be using that aspect of it. Also I would caution against having your main fuse box in that location. The units do vent out of the bottom. But a lot of the heat also vents from those side vents towards the bottom also. Once you have a large load or are charging you can check and see. They really need the full clearance from top to bottom with no obstructions. And Watts247 carries really great dc fuse/circuit breakers. I still plan on getting a couple 200 amp ones from Ian. He also has 150 amp. They are extremely heavy duty.
Good job reviewing and great job editing.
Great video! Blue Sea makes the fuse holder in the style you prefer if you ever need to find them again
cool stuff, the panel in between the 2 inverter look nice and even
Always the best 👍
Best regards from Philippines 🇵🇭
Great setup!
I'm planning on doing a backup power storage for my NAS and video surveillance system. Luckily I won't be needing any inverter or such complications, just a good LiFePo 24v battery and a beefy 12v buck converter to meet the current demands. Wish me luck 😂👌🏼
Great video. Very helpful and detailed and not too long 👍
Nice video. I appreciated the info re the inverter airflow as I thought mine had the fans in reverse. I don't know why they did them that way. I think the difference in loads on the inverters are due to the different cable lengths to the bus bars.
Hey! Great video! Its great to see fully detailed installation videos like these!
I also went with that same amazon t class fuse, but I also added one of those bluesea red battery switches to make disconnecting easier. The connections are on the back so I dont love it.
Ive been eyeing the "Suntree" DC breakers sold on the Renogy amazon stores but theyre expensive at around $100. Havent seen anyone used those yet!
This is a fantastic video, well done
very nice video, learned a lot. a small trick i learned is to mark all connections you did check the torque on is to mark them with a permanent marker. so you can easily keep track of what is tightened correctly
That's a great idea and see it being done in some pieces of equipment as well.
@@LithiumSolar i was using it on large scale power distributions. one question, where do you connect the ground to ground in your system?
Looks good brother. Thanks for sharing. God Bless
Wow.. thanks for the video! That cleared up soooo much. 😅
Excellent job brother.
This inverters are produced by the Chinese manufacturer called „Voltronic“. The EG4 inverters are also the same but only a different branding. In spain you can by this engines from „MasterPower“ and and and … 😅 Thanks for this very good Video. Best regards from Germany.
Excellent video and instruction.
My only caveat, OCD Electrical Engineer warning, is in the dryer test section before final thoughts.
You multiplied the current by 48V for power.
One should measure the actual voltage for accuracy in calculations.
It is more than 48V. Each 1V adds 118W to the total.
A typical 48V system is actually 52V or more on average.
That would be almost 480W more than the figure you calculated.
At 48V, the battery system is close to empty.
Thanks again for such a detailed video.
These methods/ principles apply to almost any system.
You were absolutely correct. I was just making a rough guess but 480W is a big difference!
Your video is excellent. Short to the point and shows what is needed to do. Thumb up for you and I will subscribe. For years I have used the 3kw (still do) for the whole house with NO 220V using recycle battery pack built in 100P 18650 cells. They are quite a pain and time consuming to build and rebuild every few years due to the recycle nature to start with.
Now with the price drop of LFP battery it is time to buy them new and new inverter that can do 220V and online monitoring capability. 3000W is plenty enough to run the whole house on 110V that is as i had been using that way for 4 years. 220V for the whole house 10k to 12kw inverter will do for most people. Battery cost is the factor for a lot of people. That is NO longer true as they are quite affordable now.
I build the whole thing up just like what you are doing. It is a fantastic hobby as there is NOT a day any of us not using power in this case we harness the photons from the sun into electrons which is truly a clean sustainable energy.
Not many people realize or know that these batteries will last longer than a decade so it will pay off for the investment in a short time and never have to worry about electrical outage when mother of nature strikes. I live in Fl and mother of nature is NOT very friendly for us here!!!!!!!
I will never do grid tie never was and never will. Too many people do not know going off grid does not cost that much more and never have to muck around with the utility company for that stinky net metering credit they pay. What a joke of that net metering and the cost of installing one. NO wonder people are not doing more of solar even just nearly everyone wants to. Honestly who would NOT like NOT to ever have an electric bill monthly again until death?????!!!!!
The more of us doing this the better and i find your videos to be excellent!!!!!!
great work
Wow nice system
great knowledge. Thanks. Subscribed...
new subscriber here, well explained and nice clean job.
well explained, Thank you
Usually you see ground bushings if your using reducing washers to ensure ground connection.
You mentioned not using a ferrule for the multi strand cable / lug connection. Another option is to use a piece of copper sheet (shim) wrapped around the conductor bundle. I've made Cam-Lok cables in the past and you get a copper shim with each connector fir this purpose.
in the NEC everything used in the electrical installation should used as it was designed to be used and also UL listed for said use.
I really like your videos. And, I have a suggestion for a video. To my knowledge, there is no comprehensive video out there showing how to properly wire a Motorhome lithium battery system using Victron (or other) components. To include a DC to DC charger for protection of the alternator. What to do about the existing cross-connect switch for the house/starter batteries. Wiring the Inverter and Controller. And, properly replacing the motorhome's existing Charger/Converter. Also discussing potential problems (if any) when hooked to shore power while the solar charging system is still active. If you made such a video I think it would be very popular. Thanks.
I really like this video, have any other video about how to connect your solar system to the grid ?
Gutes Video danke 👍🤗
Really well done and really nice system!
Awesome video! What would be the difference if you used two LVX6048WP inverters? Second, do you use the ground neutral bond the same on a boat? THANKS!
Great video! What kind of board are you using to mount all those equipment? Cement board? BTW, what does Watt247 say about ground rod for earth ground, does it need for full off-grid system?
Nice job mounting your equipment. You should not block the venting for the inverters like you did with your electrical box. When they run under high load quite some heat will blow out of these venting holes. Since you blocked half on each inverter the internal overheating protection will shut them off.
Very informative thnx, one note though, I wouldn’t feel safe with screwing to 5/8” thick plywood over a long period. Go with 3/4” minimum, studs even better depending on how heavy that equipmentis
That was an excellent presentation, clear and concise. Did you remove the bonding screws in each inverter as Will recommends?.
I removed the bonding screw in each inverter as MPP Solar (the manufacturer) recommends/approved of.
So which inverters do you like the best? Thanks for sharing
You are exactly right on the Blue Sea 48V breakers. I commend their service and sales folks for being forthright about the limits of their products, to ensure the safety of their customers.
60V DC 200amp breakers rated to not arc while shut off under load can be expensive, but worth it if something goes hot.
Thanks for all your videos, I am building a very similar system. I have question and cannot find any video about it. I am guessing that you need to even your arrays between both mpp, like array 1 on each mpp. How about between array 1 and 2 on the same mpp, does it make a difference if you close to max out one array and the second have not even half the rating?
i think you ought to contact MPP and tell them they should change the connectors to match the cable sizes they require...heavy duty!!!
I could, but highly doubt they'll listen to someone like me. They really do need better terminals though...
You've done such a great job building your channel since you started that you should be proud and pleased with your accomplishments. I knew that your channel would take off the first time I watched it several years ago and spread your name to some of the groups I belong to. Keep up with the good work and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I've just across your channel. I've just ordered 2 of the SOK batteries as they seem to be one of the best 48V batteries made. They also look easy to repair as your last video showed, should the need arise in the future. I notice that your lead lengths from the positive to each inverter are different. Is this because you are not using the inverters in 'parallel' mode, but in 'split phase mode'?
hey , system looks good , one question about rj45 cables connected to all batteries , what are they for ?
I love it
I know you've uploaded video for solar panel Array but it would be nice to upload again for this split phase , like big array and you test loads same time
hey man ive learned so much from your videos. do you have any resources for a noob to learn about electricity?
I have the same LV6548 setup with SOK batteries except not the server rack type. What I can’t figure out is why the battery voltage on one inverter is different than the other? It’s always .3 to .4 off. For example one inverter is at 54 volts and the other one at 54.4. When I measure the voltage with my meter on each inverter, they both match to what inverter 2 says. Inverter 1 shows a lower voltage. I also have to mention that inverter 1 was bought several months before inverter 2.
You need to provide an earth ground someplace in your system. Bonding is okay but will not prevent current flow to one of the metal boxes in case of a short. To earth bond will protect by tripping a breaker or the T fuse on one side or the other. This is very important. Using only the auto-transformer neutral does nothing to protect your safety in such an event. This is similar to generators with no earth anchor where you have a floating neutral and also the possibility of turning the entire frame of the generator into a conductor for current. One touch in such a situation and you are electrocuted. It's not all that common an occurence so most 'take a chance' and avoid use of the earth ground, however to be safe you should go back and edit this video so no one follows your lead and loses their life or health. It is true you are earth grounded once you connect to your dryer, however with some other type connections, you are not. For instance if you install a receptacle box with duplex receptacle there is no ground to earth available which means your neutral and ground connection on the receptacle are connected. And if your hot leg is shorted to the box it's possible to get zapped because your set up will not take the hot short to earth ground and trip a breaker. Using the common ground in you AC box is good and bonding is okay but only if the ground is actually "grounded".
I used TAIXI TXCM1B MCCB Breakers 2Pole 200A as the Battery DC/Breaker between the LVs and the 1000A battery bus bar.
I'll check them out, thanks! They look similar to the ABB breakers I'm using for my other system.
Your electric dryer is so green! You will single handedly save the planet (saving it from irresponsible idiots like me that have a propane dryer in my off grid solar house).
What exactly are you going on about? I never said anything in this video about being "green", saving the planet, or against propane dryers. There's nothing wrong with propane dryers.
@@LithiumSolar Sorry. Most solar off grid people are so anal about avoiding co2 generation (you know, they are single handedly saving the planet) and use electric everything. I built my system before global warming and propane seemed a logical way to avoid high drain electrical loads.
@@bearchow1929 I got where you're coming from and know the type LOL. This is strictly a fun hobby for me.
The power of the sun, in the palm of your hand.
just wondering about adding a manual auto emergency off switch some where ,or does them fuse work for that?
Do you see a difference or need to use a double poll breaker ti backfired your panel? I see it being done how you show and also back feeding the panel
Super video! Easy to understand. I hope you don't mind a couple of questions from a newbie. The system you setup appears to be what I would like to build. I was thinking of using the EG4's rather then the MPP's but haven't decided yet. One of my questions was grounding your breaker box and inverters. Would that be a recommended step in your opinion? I see other comments suggesting the grounding. In terms of this setup, would you be able to point me in the right direction in terms of being able to use 120v & 240v loads. Would that be possible with this setup? Also, would you be able to switch the same load back and forth from the main breaker box to the one you just setup? I'm thinking you may want to be able to do that just in case but still use your hvac or something. Thanks again for the video!!
Yes he created split phase with 120 and 240
Nice clean wiring job. But wrong load center used. You should have a main 60amp for each leg. It will protect your inverter from a short.
how close did you match the length of the battery cables +/- between the inverters and bus bars.
Are you running a heat pump for HVAC? If so, are you having any issues with the surge?
Great video! Please help: I don't speak much English but I want to ask you why in split-phase and not in parallel? I live in Europe and I need 220V for utilities, I have the same two inverters and I want to create a system that allows me to manage batteries and home consumption. If I wanted to put them in parallel, do I have to connect them both to phase and neutral or just one of the two? Can you make a video about it? Thank you
would you mind testing the talentcell 170ah bluetooth lifepo4 from Amazon please? According to the manufacturer, the cells are 177ah, 150a bms, low temp cut off and it's the same size as the regular 100ah. It's reasonably priced at around $550.
I had an electrician install an interlock kit and a 30 amp inlet so I can plug in my gas generator. Can I plug this system into that 3 amp inlet, just like my generator. If so what do I need to add or take away to make this system apply to my situation Thanks for your help in advance!
Thanks for sharing 👍...I think Mpp Solar and Growatt are leading the Solar industry I mean we got name brands out there but they cost an arm and a leg
I wish victron could have units like this ...not separate mppt
@@thabisomodisane1435 I asked Victron if they planned to offer an all-in-one system for the US, and they said not at this time..
@@thabisomodisane1435 Victron wants ALL your money, not just some of it.
Curious, what is the surge rating of the inverters? Can it run your house A/c?
Can you run a electric stove and dryer at the same time? How much watts does a stove use?
As always very detailed and accurate. Would be nice to see a unbalance load with the 120 on one inverter high then the large 240 load put on similar to a real life situation.
each inverter is 6500 watt rated. Not many 120v appliances that can over load these inverters!
Since they each handle one phase that would be a fairly boring test. Dual phase inverters like the mpp6048 would be a different story I guess. They can only handle so much of a lopsided load before a warning code occurs. That really wouldn’t happen with these. So far I haven’t had an issue with mine. Running well and water heater as well as smaller loads.
@@uhjyuff2095 I would need 4 of these inverters I have seen 19000 watt surges on my AC a few times.
@@offgridwanabe microair
@@uhjyuff2095 yes that is one way but my geothermal water furnace has been around for 20 years now so I will keep it until it dies.
As soon as there is a screw involved in a terminal you should use a ferule on fine stranded wires, otherwise the screw can damage the wires an it can become loose
and keeps strands bundled so you get all the amps you're paying for.
Thanks, Is there a type of backer board you would recommend? I'm just going to head to the improvement story now. I think cement board would be hard to drill into.
HardieBacker cement backerboard is the stuff you want. Do not get the "USG Durock Board" stuff. It's impossible to cut without specialized tools and that epoxy smell never goes away. The HardieBacker can be screwed with regular screws that have a point on the end. It's fibrous, not a solid piece of rock like the name "cement board" suggests.
@@LithiumSolar Perfect. I love youtube! :). I just picked up 8 sheets. I'll mention you in my build video. Thanks!
After watching the end of the film, could the difference in the power output of the inverters be because of the different length of the positive leads that I mentioned?
Do you leave it like that in the backyard 24/7?
nice
Is there any reason I couldn’t use mp4 batteries with these inverters? Thanks
Nice video but I would like to see information about running and standby/idle mode energy use. That information would be extremely useful for those of those that have minimal solar energy available.
Replying to my own question I know it was stated that approximately 120 watts was being used with no power throughput. Is there another mode other than just off?
I am using the sungold power version of these exact same machines. They look identical except for color. Programs also work the same way
How do you get the inverters to communicate with the batteries? My batteries are at a very low state of charge but are not completely drained. Because the voltage has not changed much, the inverter register them as being nearly 100% and will not charge with utility power .
I have also tried hooking these up to four 460 W solar panels. The panels are bringing in the correct voltage but are bringing in no watts or amp and I cannot figure out why.
What are your thoughts on the EG46500-48?
4x $1,600 batteries.
2x $1,200 inverter.
This system is awesome...for anyone who has $10,000+
That would be me, actually my 13000 watt kit was $15,800 delivered. That does not include the ground mount or switches and wiring, I figure about another $5,000. I will be installing it myself. Took 53 years of hard work to get where I am at.
no surge protectors ?
Can you suggest cheap a low noise inverter?
No communication between the battery bank and the inverters?
For the same cost you could build a nuclear power plant or an underground generator and gas bunker
I get the same fault when firing up my batteries- Not sure if this is normal or not
Thanks for the video. I always learn alot from this channel. Are you still using the Batrium BMS? How is that going?
Thanks 🙂 And yes, still using the Batrium - working great. In fact, it works so well that the last startup time is December 20th - over 7 months ago!!
@@LithiumSolar Nice...thanks for the quick reply. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on the batrium purchase.
@@hendersonsobers396 Keep in mind that it doesn't communicate with these inverters yet if that's what you're thinking of using it with. It should be coming soon though (I keep bugging them about it).
@@LithiumSolar ok no problem. i heard as well they are working on communications with MPP but not sure when. hopefully soon but meanwhile, i can get by without the bms communications.
Hi there. How can I get 11 or 22kw three phase solar charging for electric car via inverters please.
so..can i get 240 v and 13kw output? or does each give 120 v and 6500w but if you go 240v you only get 6500w ?
Higher load on one inverter is because the motor in the dryer that turns the drum is 120v.
ok very good
Why do you have 2 fuses on the positive?
Midnight solar makes good DC breakers (up to 125V)
Good idea - forgot about Midnight. I'll check them out. Thanks!