I just replaced all the 50amp fuses in my 2017 ST, and since this front batt box gets heat soaked like crazy, I heat taped the inseide of the main cover, the outside and back side of the mega fuse box, just as I would insulate my external fuse box on my barn, thats in the sun constantly 🤙 Made a huge huge improvement too, no more idle down coming to a stop with the ac on, car lockeds a shit ton faster, car starts faster, and also..... Dun dun dun..... NO MORE PULSING COLD START IDLING!!!! 🔥🔥🔥
Replacing this fuse fixed a lot of issues namely no crank no start. Thanks so much for the $20 dollar fix shops probably would have wanted to replace a lot more.
@@newfie-dean5803 It's my son car, he had a continuous light show on his dash, as long as it was running I figured it was all electrical not mechanical, that fuse change resolved most of the warning lights and it starts much easier.
I've already done this, and bought extra fuses. The design of the original fuse causes it to break, and it shuts everything down immediately - I happened to be on the highway in Phoenix when it happened. Really tough to figure it out because, when it cooled off, the car started. I tapped the fuse box and next thing you know, it was back to normal. Had to crush the fuse to make contact enough to get home. Once home I ordered new fuses, no problems since.
Thank you so much for this man. I have a 2018 ford focus 2.0l and i just replaced the battery thinking it solved the issue, but come next day, it died while driving. So i checked ohms and every fuse and noticed when i wiggled the panel between the airbox and battery it triggered the starter relay. Ill update soon when i aquire the fuse
@dexterleslie3439 so I replaced that same fuse, and just for a safe measure, I replaced the positive cable. So far, everything is working well with no issues! 👍
I saw this a day too late. My focus was showing a key not detected error and the blinker was stuck on even though I hadn't actuated it. There was also a hill assist deactivated warning. It turned out to be this.
@@mymusicaccount1456 check all of those battery box fuses. I'm not sure how but it cost me $300 at the dealership. My starter also gave out a month later. Not sure if it was related but just a heads up.
Hi!! Thank you so much for this video. Do you think driving with a damaged one would cause irreversible problems? Mine started acting up a week ago and I’ve had to drive it short distances it since but it eventually starts acting up. I’m worried I’m fixing it too late.
Can you measure resistance in ohms across the fuse and use that to determine if the fuse should be replaced? That is assuming there are no visible cracks or other indicators.
Load testing it in the vehicle with battery voltage is what I normally do. You could remove the fuse and ohm it, yeah. Wiggle the legs of the fuse a little bit while ohming to check for fatigued connection in the fuse
Are you familiar with the APIM module for the ford sync system? The main thing i wanted to ask is if it needs to be reprogrammed for a new vehicle. I recently got a used APIM module (from a 2013 Ford Fiesta SE) from a pull-a-part junkyard and put that in my 2016 Ford Fiesta SE. This has been my last resort after already replacing the audio/sync fuses and disconnecting the car battery. Also would it be worth it to take a junkyard fiesta engine and transmission (assuming both are in good condition) and put it in my 2016 fiesta whenever my fiesta finally dies on me? Im currently at 150k miles but want to make this vehicle last as long as i can. it has been great to me and the only big issue I"ve had with it so far is needing to reprogram the TCM. Thanks for your videos btw i have been binge-watching and discovered you from your transmission pull apart vid and the rest is history. Great content!
Thanks for watching my videos! Glad they've helped. Can't see the harm in having a spare eng and Trans for the right price. It's been a while since I've done sync. Pretty sure it needs programming. Normally on my focuses when there an issue like that, I get a Chinese touchscreen radio to bypass it all and get more features. That'll rid the troublesome ACMs too.
I replaced my car battery and it worked for a few days. When measuring voltage in the morning, its 10.8. When the car is on, its 14.6. When the car is off again for a few minutes, its at 10.8. I pulled the battery and charged it off the wall outlet and it charged to 12.8. Would this fuse fix the issue of the battery not charging in the car?
Hey Ben! Could this be causing a p2768 input/turbin shaft speed sensor “B” circuit intermittent? I just rebuilt this entire trans, clutch pack, forks, actuators, Tcm. Now getting this error. 😢 Your videos have sagged my life btw. So incredibly helpful. 🙏
@@crtvexe I'm glad the videos helped. I'm willing to bet you damaged that speed sensor or connector when putting the transmission in. I've got a video called dps6 sensor Identification that will help
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles you’re literally saving me hundreds and hundreds of dollars thank you Ben quick question I want to test the TCM that I took out of my car to make sure it’s bad now that I fix the output sensor. Do I need to reprogram it even though I took it out of this exact car days ago. I’d really like to get my $800 back if I don’t need this TCM
@@BigBensCarsAndCycleshi Ben, my focus blows the big yellowish one on the right hand side and its a 250A it lasts a few weeks and blows again i am frustrated like crazy
Mine also has an electrical issue, like almost everyday, it doesn't Crank and Start.. it says Engine Malfunction Service Now.. What I do is I remove the Relay of PCM then put it back while it is in Ignition ON. Then it becomes okay, i can start my Focus. Meanwhile i drive at 40kmh it suddenly stalls in the side of the road. I just do again the PCM relay, then it is okay. Can you advice me, is it possible that my 50A fuses are damaged? not yet replaced. Mine is 100k kms odometer, 11yrs Focus 2012 MK3. Thanks sir!
@@ricardop2279 Yup, already fixed. The problem was in the socket/connector of the PCM Relay, you need to tighten it. Loose connection is the cause. Doesnt supply power to the PCM.
I've seen other people post car issues in here so thought I'd give it a shot. My fiance owns a 2016 Ford Focus SE. And we replaced the battery, and now the car won't turn on at all. The gear shift is locked in place and won't move, the car won't even turn on with a jump start. When I hooked it up to my car and let it charge, the only thing it did was turn on the dashboard lights very briefly. Could this be a bad battery or a bad starter? Cause I didn't hear any clicking it just did absolutely nothing.
i have a 2013 focus titanium and i’ve been having a slew of issues. left low beam not working even after replacing headlamp assembly, back up cam intermittently flipped upside down, and now ZERO audio and a ghost battery drain. battery is only 3 months old. i had battery, starter, and alternator all checked and they’re all working perfectly. could this be my issue? the electrical issues are so assorted i’m hesitant to blame and replace just the acm or ecm if that won’t fix it.
I've just replaced the battery on a 2013 Mk3 focus after owning it 5weeks) alarm went off when lost battery power so was still hooked on the bad battery when I touched them 2 open fuse bolts pulling out the clips. Got a spark and when changed to the new battery notice I lost power steering
Could you do a video on injector cleaning? I’ve seen a few videos where they connect a pressurized canister with the cleaning solution to the injector rail on other cars but my ‘12 Focus doesn’t appear to have such a connection. Thanks.
Could this cause a U0155 code? In hot weather I’ll start my car and my instrument cluster and radio will not turn on. I have to leave the car on for 5 minutes before it all turns on.
@@xxOHKABOOMZxx my APIM module is bad… It’s the thing on the back of your radio. I took it out and now the cluster works perfectly even when it’s hot. I bought a replacement pre programmed one off of eBay from a US seller.
Hey, I have a 2012 Ford focus titanium & I’m having problems with the cooling fan coming on. I’ve replace the fuses that’s you’re doing in this video, fan control module, fan relay, climate sensor, & also the water pump has been replaced
Hi there I have exact same problem in England focus however mechanic believes it’s the fuse next to one your pointing at. I’m waiting 2 days for new fuse any idea if it can be fuse left of one your pointing at? As I’m having same no start or power cutting whilst driving
Could this have anything to do with the engine malfunction message i'm getting,it comes on after a few miles.but if you switch off the engine it disappears and then comes back again once you do a few more miles.Had about 4 garages look at it but no one can find the fault.I do like the car so really dont want to get rid of it.Its a Ford Focus 09 1.6 diesel.Thank you.
@@patrickmalone1902 try reading codes with the engine running and the warning on the dash without turning the key off? And sometimes scan tools can't read manufacturer specific codes
My 2014 focus wont do anything except light the frontbulds and tried to find the F1to f26 fuses that is supposedly is in the trunk but is not there i thinks is those fuses and not see the box at all Anything can help? Any suggestions
Could this have anything to do with throttle issues? Replaced throttle body/sensor and accelerator/sensor and it’s still throwing “service engine” here and there, and when that happens the car sputters and stalls and the code is p2135… 2013 Focus… Thing is the car will drive perfectly for days and then this will pop up every so often, cause driving issues, and then go away again
Hi, same code after throttle body replacement? Did you use an oem throttle body? If not, I'd put the stock throttle body back on and checked for a chafed harness on the intake manifold
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles hi thanks for responding. Not sure if throttle body is oem to be honest, but the new and old looked identical. Regardless there was no difference before and after in terms of codes and symptoms
I’ve had a hunch it was faulty wiring… not a car guy here but this Focus sure has helped me to understand more about them. Just went out and looked at the wiring harnesses(?) and one of them was busted open and a couple of the wires looked kinda rough. Would fixing/replacing those be a lot of money?
@thedaystarsfall nope! Easy. I've got a video for repairing automotive wiring. You can post pics in my discord or Facebook group if you want further help!
could this be the cause of me losing power? i’ll lose all power like the car is dead i’ll wiggle my positive battery cable & hear a wiggle & would get all power back
Hey I Just had to change the battery on my ford focus mk3 1.6 tdci now it will not charge at least acording to the obd2 adapter it reads 12.5 volts even when the car is running. It used to read about 14.5 volts before I changed the bad battery what can be the fault?
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles no it is not. I also took it for a drive and I saw on my phone that it somtimes goes up to about 14.5 volts but does not stay there and It also goes down and up abit.
please someone help, my trunk would not open, i just changed the lock one the tail gate and changed the fuse for it, but it wont open at all. theres no light on the number plate light as well. tnx
It's the wire on the right side hinge that closes into the trunk, its black I believe and it gets broken. You will have to climb through the back seat and open the trunk with the emergency handle.
No mechanic near me can’t solve it costing me thousands in random parts I have a ford focus 2014 SE Randomly won’t start Steering is locked windows and wipers extremely slow like low power but vehicle has power horn sounds like it’s deafened battery is around 6/7 months old Eventually it will start Sometimes itll work if I connect a battery pack to it but sometimes I don’t need it Replaced ground wires TCM
@@stevenyeo5481 That code isn't related. You may have a manufacturer specific code being set, which the scan tool can't pick up. What scan tool are you using? Are you able to download forscan and order obdlink-ex?
I can come back and provide the code it’s giving. My 2015 ford focus titanium will randomly stop acknowledging the key fob. The car has actually died while driving and gave a message the fob was no longer detected. The dealer took a week to try to replicate it and finally was able to get a code from the computer.
I just replaced all the 50amp fuses in my 2017 ST, and since this front batt box gets heat soaked like crazy, I heat taped the inseide of the main cover, the outside and back side of the mega fuse box, just as I would insulate my external fuse box on my barn, thats in the sun constantly 🤙 Made a huge huge improvement too, no more idle down coming to a stop with the ac on, car lockeds a shit ton faster, car starts faster, and also..... Dun dun dun..... NO MORE PULSING COLD START IDLING!!!! 🔥🔥🔥
Replacing this fuse fixed a lot of issues namely no crank no start. Thanks so much for the $20 dollar fix shops probably would have wanted to replace a lot more.
You mentioned a lot of issues. What issues were you having besides the no crank no start?
@@newfie-dean5803 It's my son car, he had a continuous light show on his dash, as long as it was running I figured it was all electrical not mechanical, that fuse change resolved most of the warning lights and it starts much easier.
I've already done this, and bought extra fuses. The design of the original fuse causes it to break, and it shuts everything down immediately - I happened to be on the highway in Phoenix when it happened. Really tough to figure it out because, when it cooled off, the car started. I tapped the fuse box and next thing you know, it was back to normal. Had to crush the fuse to make contact enough to get home. Once home I ordered new fuses, no problems since.
Thank you so much for this man. I have a 2018 ford focus 2.0l and i just replaced the battery thinking it solved the issue, but come next day, it died while driving. So i checked ohms and every fuse and noticed when i wiggled the panel between the airbox and battery it triggered the starter relay. Ill update soon when i aquire the fuse
I’m having the same problem please update if you can!!
@dexterleslie3439 so I replaced that same fuse, and just for a safe measure, I replaced the positive cable. So far, everything is working well with no issues! 👍
I saw this a day too late. My focus was showing a key not detected error and the blinker was stuck on even though I hadn't actuated it. There was also a hill assist deactivated warning. It turned out to be this.
Good to know ! I’m having the same problem. Definitely gotta get this fixed tomorrow.
Key not detected is one of many of my problems. I think ill be replacing mine.
@@mymusicaccount1456 check all of those battery box fuses. I'm not sure how but it cost me $300 at the dealership. My starter also gave out a month later. Not sure if it was related but just a heads up.
Hi!! Thank you so much for this video. Do you think driving with a damaged one would cause irreversible problems? Mine started acting up a week ago and I’ve had to drive it short distances it since but it eventually starts acting up. I’m worried I’m fixing it too late.
@@EvelynIsabelle1 hi, it shouldn't cause irreversible issues. Just issues that occur during the time
I opened mine up and it was all rusted, would that cause transmission issues?
Can you measure resistance in ohms across the fuse and use that to determine if the fuse should be replaced? That is assuming there are no visible cracks or other indicators.
Load testing it in the vehicle with battery voltage is what I normally do. You could remove the fuse and ohm it, yeah. Wiggle the legs of the fuse a little bit while ohming to check for fatigued connection in the fuse
.
Are you familiar with the APIM module for the ford sync system? The main thing i wanted to ask is if it needs to be reprogrammed for a new vehicle. I recently got a used APIM module (from a 2013 Ford Fiesta SE) from a pull-a-part junkyard and put that in my 2016 Ford Fiesta SE. This has been my last resort after already replacing the audio/sync fuses and disconnecting the car battery. Also would it be worth it to take a junkyard fiesta engine and transmission (assuming both are in good condition) and put it in my 2016 fiesta whenever my fiesta finally dies on me? Im currently at 150k miles but want to make this vehicle last as long as i can. it has been great to me and the only big issue I"ve had with it so far is needing to reprogram the TCM. Thanks for your videos btw i have been binge-watching and discovered you from your transmission pull apart vid and the rest is history. Great content!
Thanks for watching my videos! Glad they've helped. Can't see the harm in having a spare eng and Trans for the right price. It's been a while since I've done sync. Pretty sure it needs programming. Normally on my focuses when there an issue like that, I get a Chinese touchscreen radio to bypass it all and get more features. That'll rid the troublesome ACMs too.
Did this 50A fuse fix your APIM?
I replaced my car battery and it worked for a few days. When measuring voltage in the morning, its 10.8. When the car is on, its 14.6. When the car is off again for a few minutes, its at 10.8. I pulled the battery and charged it off the wall outlet and it charged to 12.8. Would this fuse fix the issue of the battery not charging in the car?
From experience, I think your TCM may be draining your battery. You can pull the fuses for the TCM to see if the battery drains again
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles There were 3 TCM slots. 2 of the 3 were empty. The 3rd one had a fuse and the fuse is good.
Hey Ben! Could this be causing a p2768 input/turbin shaft speed sensor “B” circuit intermittent?
I just rebuilt this entire trans, clutch pack, forks, actuators, Tcm. Now getting this error. 😢
Your videos have sagged my life btw. So incredibly helpful. 🙏
Saved my life*
@@crtvexe I'm glad the videos helped. I'm willing to bet you damaged that speed sensor or connector when putting the transmission in. I've got a video called dps6 sensor Identification that will help
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles watching now, attacking in the AM. Thanks So much Ben!
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles you’re literally saving me hundreds and hundreds of dollars thank you Ben quick question I want to test the TCM that I took out of my car to make sure it’s bad now that I fix the output sensor. Do I need to reprogram it even though I took it out of this exact car days ago.
I’d really like to get my $800 back if I don’t need this TCM
@@BigBensCarsAndCycleshi Ben, my focus blows the big yellowish one on the right hand side and its a 250A it lasts a few weeks and blows again i am frustrated like crazy
Could these fuses have anything to do with radiator fan not coming on?
Yes. The one next to the one I'm mentioning in the video. To the left
You da man !
Do you happen to have the part number of the fuse?
CV6Z-14526-CA
This appears to be an oem one: Automotive Fuses Bolt On 50A a.co/d/hdn5bT9
Thanks! Appreciate your videos btw@@BigBensCarsAndCycles
Thanks!
Thank you, I'm glad the video helped!
Had my Bluetooth stopped working, then my front wipers stopped working, and now my car wont start. I think this may be the issue. Will report back
Mine also has an electrical issue, like almost everyday, it doesn't Crank and Start.. it says Engine Malfunction Service Now.. What I do is I remove the Relay of PCM then put it back while it is in Ignition ON. Then it becomes okay, i can start my Focus. Meanwhile i drive at 40kmh it suddenly stalls in the side of the road. I just do again the PCM relay, then it is okay. Can you advice me, is it possible that my 50A fuses are damaged? not yet replaced. Mine is 100k kms odometer, 11yrs Focus 2012 MK3. Thanks sir!
Hi. You could start with the fuse and relay and see what happens. That may be something I'd have to diag in person to be sure
Same issue here. Did you fix it?
@@ricardop2279 Yup, already fixed. The problem was in the socket/connector of the PCM Relay, you need to tighten it. Loose connection is the cause. Doesnt supply power to the PCM.
@@johneemotovlog2073 Thank you for sharing . I will check that on mine.
I've seen other people post car issues in here so thought I'd give it a shot. My fiance owns a 2016 Ford Focus SE. And we replaced the battery, and now the car won't turn on at all. The gear shift is locked in place and won't move, the car won't even turn on with a jump start. When I hooked it up to my car and let it charge, the only thing it did was turn on the dashboard lights very briefly. Could this be a bad battery or a bad starter? Cause I didn't hear any clicking it just did absolutely nothing.
I would test the new battery first off. (And make sure it was hooked up right , positive to red, black to ground)
i have a 2013 focus titanium and i’ve been having a slew of issues. left low beam not working even after replacing headlamp assembly, back up cam intermittently flipped upside down, and now ZERO audio and a ghost battery drain. battery is only 3 months old. i had battery, starter, and alternator all checked and they’re all working perfectly. could this be my issue? the electrical issues are so assorted i’m hesitant to blame and replace just the acm or ecm if that won’t fix it.
@@existentialXcalamity yes, could be the issue. The bcm controls a lot of those things, and that fuse powers the bcm
Life saver
Could one of this fuses be related to the loss of power steering?
Probably not, but it can't hurt to test them. If you end up buying a steering rack, there's better prices on used ones
What one is the location or colour of the power steering mega fuse please
I've just replaced the battery on a 2013 Mk3 focus after owning it 5weeks) alarm went off when lost battery power so was still hooked on the bad battery when I touched them 2 open fuse bolts pulling out the clips.
Got a spark and when changed to the new battery notice I lost power steering
Sounds like you blew a fuse for the power steering, this may not be the bad fuse in the video, but should be one in that location I believe
Could you do a video on injector cleaning? I’ve seen a few videos where they connect a pressurized canister with the cleaning solution to the injector rail on other cars but my ‘12 Focus doesn’t appear to have such a connection. Thanks.
Definitely, will do.
It may not be right away but I will. You can attach an injection cleaning machine at the high side pump where the low side line connects
In order to replace those fuses I need battery disconnected and then I am all good to remove them and safely replace ?
Yes
Could this cause a U0155 code?
In hot weather I’ll start my car and my instrument cluster and radio will not turn on. I have to leave the car on for 5 minutes before it all turns on.
Let me know if you find anything, I’m having the same issue
@@xxOHKABOOMZxx my APIM module is bad… It’s the thing on the back of your radio. I took it out and now the cluster works perfectly even when it’s hot. I bought a replacement pre programmed one off of eBay from a US seller.
I have ford focus 2012... Some times it's no reverse and some times working proper what can i do?
I'd see what codes are in it and use my videos to help diagnose
Hey, I have a 2012 Ford focus titanium & I’m having problems with the cooling fan coming on. I’ve replace the fuses that’s you’re doing in this video, fan control module, fan relay, climate sensor, & also the water pump has been replaced
But still the cooling fan doesn’t come on. It comes on with the AC & the heat but not when the car get to the operating temperature
@jermichaelcalhoun9533 the fan motor itself is a somewhat common failure
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles do you mean the whole fan assembly? If so I just got doing that like an hour ago
@@jermichaelcalhoun9533 yeah. That didn't fix it?
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Nope. Could a bad o2 sensor or catalytic converter cause it not to work?
In order to remove them I need to disconnect the battery completly and then I am safe to replace them corrcet ? thanks
Yes
i that's fuse can cause alternator overcharging the battery
Hi there I have exact same problem in England focus however mechanic believes it’s the fuse next to one your pointing at. I’m waiting 2 days for new fuse any idea if it can be fuse left of one your pointing at? As I’m having same no start or power cutting whilst driving
Yeah If they think it's that I'd trust that. But I'd replace both
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles thank you I did actually think to replace both. This video has saved me. Legend
@@jameswall8430did it work
Could this have anything to do with the engine malfunction message i'm getting,it comes on after a few miles.but if you switch off the engine it disappears and then comes back again once you do a few more miles.Had about 4 garages look at it but no one can find the fault.I do like the car so really dont want to get rid of it.Its a Ford Focus 09 1.6 diesel.Thank you.
Maybe. What code is it setting
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles no codes were found,thats the annoying thing about it.
@@patrickmalone1902 try reading codes with the engine running and the warning on the dash without turning the key off? And sometimes scan tools can't read manufacturer specific codes
Can I check these fuses with a multimeter at the nuts
Yeah, and you can flex on the positive cable to see if it drops voltage
My 2014 focus wont do anything except light the frontbulds and tried to find the F1to f26 fuses that is supposedly is in the trunk but is not there i thinks is those fuses and not see the box at all
Anything can help?
Any suggestions
th-cam.com/video/yrm-8AZgQjk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Pk3w1bKHn7-S5wHU&t=200
Could this have anything to do with throttle issues? Replaced throttle body/sensor and accelerator/sensor and it’s still throwing “service engine” here and there, and when that happens the car sputters and stalls and the code is p2135… 2013 Focus… Thing is the car will drive perfectly for days and then this will pop up every so often, cause driving issues, and then go away again
Hi, same code after throttle body replacement? Did you use an oem throttle body? If not, I'd put the stock throttle body back on and checked for a chafed harness on the intake manifold
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles hi thanks for responding. Not sure if throttle body is oem to be honest, but the new and old looked identical. Regardless there was no difference before and after in terms of codes and symptoms
I’ve had a hunch it was faulty wiring… not a car guy here but this Focus sure has helped me to understand more about them. Just went out and looked at the wiring harnesses(?) and one of them was busted open and a couple of the wires looked kinda rough. Would fixing/replacing those be a lot of money?
@thedaystarsfall nope! Easy. I've got a video for repairing automotive wiring. You can post pics in my discord or Facebook group if you want further help!
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles thank you, kind sir!! Have a great night
could this be the cause of me losing power? i’ll lose all power like the car is dead i’ll wiggle my positive battery cable & hear a wiggle & would get all power back
Yes it could be that or high resistance inside the positive battery cable. I'd replace both
Hey I Just had to change the battery on my ford focus mk3 1.6 tdci now it will not charge at least acording to the obd2 adapter it reads 12.5 volts even when the car is running. It used to read about 14.5 volts before I changed the bad battery what can be the fault?
Could be the alternator, is the battery light on with the engine on?
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles no it is not. I also took it for a drive and I saw on my phone that it somtimes goes up to about 14.5 volts but does not stay there and It also goes down and up abit.
I took out the f22 fuse that is for the bms and now it goes up to about 15 volts when the car is running @@BigBensCarsAndCycles
Does that fuze control the cooling fan?
The one to the left of it does if I'm not mistaken
please someone help, my trunk would not open, i just changed the lock one the tail gate and changed the fuse for it, but it wont open at all. theres no light on the number plate light as well. tnx
Check for damaged wiring in the harness going through the trunk
It's the wire on the right side hinge that closes into the trunk, its black I believe and it gets broken. You will have to climb through the back seat and open the trunk with the emergency handle.
Wooooo!!
No mechanic near me can’t solve it costing me thousands in random parts I have a ford focus 2014 SE
Randomly won’t start
Steering is locked windows and wipers extremely slow like low power but vehicle has power horn sounds like it’s deafened battery is around 6/7 months old
Eventually it will start
Sometimes itll work if I connect a battery pack to it but sometimes I don’t need it
Replaced ground wires
TCM
Positive battery cable may have high resistance inside. This fuse in the video may have resistance. The battery could have a bad cell
@@BigBensCarsAndCycleswhat would I do for the high resistance in the cable?
@@BigBensCarsAndCyclescar still has power though the lights dim and flicker and the engine clicks rapidly sometimes when I attempt to turn it on
@@BigBensCarsAndCycleswould it be possible I could email you some of the videos I have of it?
The dealership will charge you 1200...
Would this fuse cause a u0121 code
Doubtful. I wouldn't worry about that code unless you have an issue.
I have a 2014 focus. I have the transmission fault on the dash come on. The only code that comes up is that u0121-00 abs control module.
@@stevenyeo5481 That code isn't related. You may have a manufacturer specific code being set, which the scan tool can't pick up. What scan tool are you using? Are you able to download forscan and order obdlink-ex?
I have a innova 5410 scan tool
@@stevenyeo5481 I'd try another one if it can't read it. Or does your dash say trans overheat?
I can come back and provide the code it’s giving. My 2015 ford focus titanium will randomly stop acknowledging the key fob. The car has actually died while driving and gave a message the fob was no longer detected. The dealer took a week to try to replicate it and finally was able to get a code from the computer.
He keeps his hand in the way, as not to see the other 50 amp placements!