Great video again. On the handle mold you could put a feature inside the handle as grab feature. Rather than grabbing the edge with the pliers and risking damaging the plaster.
It has been suggested several times to do so. However, I want my code to work for a variety of forms, and this one is very narrow so there really isn't much space. The other issue is that you really want to pull both laterally as well as up. I'm not sure what type of feature might meet all of those constraints.
When I print with PETG I use Purple Elmer's glue stick to help the models release easier from the bed. So far Bambu's PETG HF has been my favorite PETG to use.
Thanks. I'd seen that suggestion when I noticed the issue and went digging. Unfortunately I think that's a great example of the printer failing to be an appliance and just working. Thanks for the recommendation about Bambu's HF PETG - if/when I try again I'll use it and see how it goes!
Did you use a textured build plate? I use standard textured plate on my prusa’s. I wipe bed with 99.9% IPA (on hot or cold plate) and then let cool before picking, they usually self release. Every now and then you’ll get a part that will stick and sometimes will leave bits left on plate (usually they are mouse ears which I’m not concerned about). The IPA helps. If I run back to back prints and haven’t done an IPA wipe I notice it’s sticks more. 3rd print is tricky to get off. PETG is wispy at times. I am in Perth, Australia and just run the prusament petg. I get a few wisps. I’ve had a couple times where you hear popping in nozzle as moisture is boiling off. But I’ve never had anything like modbot or others describe.. If wispy Blast with hair drier and it will be good. Possible sand with 400grit will help in bad parts. I found pla pops off too easy and used petg as it pretty much always works.
Thanks! Yes, I'm using Bambu's regular plate which is textured and labeled for PETG. The parts breaking off would basically be the same as mouse ears - very thin and attached only on one side. I didn't see/hear any visible signs of moisture (although it is the wet season here now), but the stringing seems to indicate there was. Mostly I was just surprised it didn't just work like my PLA+ does in the printer.
Are you holding off the bambu firmware update? Have you seen Louis Rossmann’s videos on bambu firmware and then adjusting posts to soften the backlash?
I’m gonna dive into 3d molds so thanks for making this video. Subscribed. Also do you have any recommendations which filament to use for printing 3d pottery ribs?
To start with, the first answer is the same - whatever you can print. Eg PLA would be ok. Beyond that, it really depends on how much flexibility you want in your rib, and the nature of your clay body. A groggy clay will be harder on the rib, and if you want flexibility you'd want to get TPU working (which can be tricky), and possibly multi-material printing.
I have a Bambu A1 and for a while was using only Bambu filament. I found the PETG from Bambu to be VERY finicky compared to PLA. It’s just not a super easy filament to use I guess
disclaimer: not a dev, just a geeky pottery nerd. Have you thought about allowing folks to contribute code to your project? Might help feature requests, design suggestions, etc. I'd be more motivated to do prints if I was testing features I worked on.
If I ever decide to stop working on Shape Cast I might open source some of it. But that is not in the cards at the moment. The best way to contribute right now really is to buy a handle.
Great video again. On the handle mold you could put a feature inside the handle as grab feature. Rather than grabbing the edge with the pliers and risking damaging the plaster.
It has been suggested several times to do so. However, I want my code to work for a variety of forms, and this one is very narrow so there really isn't much space. The other issue is that you really want to pull both laterally as well as up. I'm not sure what type of feature might meet all of those constraints.
When I print with PETG I use Purple Elmer's glue stick to help the models release easier from the bed. So far Bambu's PETG HF has been my favorite PETG to use.
Thanks. I'd seen that suggestion when I noticed the issue and went digging. Unfortunately I think that's a great example of the printer failing to be an appliance and just working.
Thanks for the recommendation about Bambu's HF PETG - if/when I try again I'll use it and see how it goes!
Did you use a textured build plate?
I use standard textured plate on my prusa’s. I wipe bed with 99.9% IPA (on hot or cold plate) and then let cool before picking, they usually self release.
Every now and then you’ll get a part that will stick and sometimes will leave bits left on plate (usually they are mouse ears which I’m not concerned about). The IPA helps. If I run back to back prints and haven’t done an IPA wipe I notice it’s sticks more. 3rd print is tricky to get off.
PETG is wispy at times. I am in Perth, Australia and just run the prusament petg. I get a few wisps. I’ve had a couple times where you hear popping in nozzle as moisture is boiling off. But I’ve never had anything like modbot or others describe.. If wispy Blast with hair drier and it will be good. Possible sand with 400grit will help in bad parts.
I found pla pops off too easy and used petg as it pretty much always works.
Thanks! Yes, I'm using Bambu's regular plate which is textured and labeled for PETG. The parts breaking off would basically be the same as mouse ears - very thin and attached only on one side. I didn't see/hear any visible signs of moisture (although it is the wet season here now), but the stringing seems to indicate there was. Mostly I was just surprised it didn't just work like my PLA+ does in the printer.
Are you holding off the bambu firmware update? Have you seen Louis Rossmann’s videos on bambu firmware and then adjusting posts to soften the backlash?
I have not seen it. I wasn't holding back intentionally, but I hand't updated the firmware in a while.
@@PotterybyKent watch Louis Rossmann videos as you may not want to - bit of a scandal ATM.
You can’t roll back the firmware.
Oh, thanks. I did see that news. I doubt it'll directly impact me one way or the other.
I’m gonna dive into 3d molds so thanks for making this video. Subscribed. Also do you have any recommendations which filament to use for printing 3d pottery ribs?
To start with, the first answer is the same - whatever you can print. Eg PLA would be ok. Beyond that, it really depends on how much flexibility you want in your rib, and the nature of your clay body. A groggy clay will be harder on the rib, and if you want flexibility you'd want to get TPU working (which can be tricky), and possibly multi-material printing.
I have a Bambu A1 and for a while was using only Bambu filament. I found the PETG from Bambu to be VERY finicky compared to PLA. It’s just not a super easy filament to use I guess
Thanks for the feedback. I'm getting that sense!
disclaimer: not a dev, just a geeky pottery nerd. Have you thought about allowing folks to contribute code to your project? Might help feature requests, design suggestions, etc. I'd be more motivated to do prints if I was testing features I worked on.
If I ever decide to stop working on Shape Cast I might open source some of it. But that is not in the cards at the moment. The best way to contribute right now really is to buy a handle.