7:26 could you put the moulds in the oven at 40-50 degree Celsius so that they dry out (as you do with desiccant) then you control the moisture in them well and there on less variable to play with.
Interesting idea (although it would take a big oven!) I have seen people place their molds in front of fans, and I have a small dehumidifier I run in the winter to help control ambient moisture.
I really like the concept of printing the plaster molds. The one area I see where Shape Cast could be improved is being able to print the molds without supports. For the Inner mold the inner surface of the shape could include a dome, even if he bottom of the shape to be slip cast if flat. The The recessed area for the attaching screws could be an arc or an angle removing the need for the abrupt overhang. Overall this is a fantastic concept.
Thanks! I want to understand - if you're making the inner mold thicker, then what is the purpose of removing the need for supports (you're using the material and time either way). Also, I'd worry about making the part more rigid as it needs to give a bit during removal. For the screw holes, they're very small and print without supports (or if the slicer insists, you can turn them off for right there without issue).
@@PotterybyKent The two places that would be thicker would be the slip well, and the new inner ark at the top. The draft angle at the slip well could be slightly increased to offset any increased resistance to release, you could also pull against it with more force without breaking the bottom ring where the thread insets are at. I can see where adding the ark at the top could be more problematic depending on the outside shape and its draft angles. If the supports required can be minimized it would also decrease the overall print time. None of this should be taken as criticism to the excellent work you are doing. I'm just starting to play with pottery and you have come up with an excellent method of cheaply and quickly creating slip cast molds.
I got it. I could see redesigning the slip well (although since it is so close to the build plate there really isn't much support there). And it's not so much about force being applied (you shouldn't need much) as it being able to deform just a bit (shrinking w/ the frozen mixture).
I can vouch for hydrocal working quite well - my local pottery supply was out of pottery plaster so I picked up a couple of bags of it, and I've been using for most of my molds. As you said it soaks up water a bit slower, and probably takes a bit longer to dry, but it works really well. I'm thinking it may degrade slightly slower as well as we've got quite a few casts out of them so far and I'm not noticing any difference in the mold or the quality.
Yes,I'd imagine it would degrade slower due to the strength. I haven't actually tested the difference but that might be an interesting thing to do. Do the molds dry out as well? I'm guessing that might be another impact of the denser plaster.
@@PotterybyKent possibly a little slower to try, but I haven't tried to really push them either - I do 1 casting a day usually, and they are ready to go the next day - Granted I'm working in an insulated Metal workshop in North Carolina heat (but also high humidity)
The one thing I have going right now is sleigh bells and cowbells. Both molds are straight forward and the casts are easy. But I think porcelain would make better bells for tonal quality, but I think that will be a tough challenge. I'll need to rework my kiln. But this is a good summary video and destined to be a reference. Thanks.
Hi Kent! First of all thank you so much for the info and wisdom regarding these processes. Truly appreciate that you have shared much experience with us. I have a question about the slip firing. What would be the temperature you reach with this type of slip? What is the ramp-up profile you use?
Happy to help and answer questions! It's basically the same answer as normal plastic clay used for throwing or hand building. It depends on your clay body. You can get low, medium or high fire casting slips. I use medium fire - Cone 5/6. The firing profile is impacted by your glaze as much as the clay body. So use a profile recommended by whoever makes your glaze. I use a fair number of @oldforgecreations glaze recipes and use the firing schedule similar to what he posted on glazy.
Hello- I really enjoyed your 3d print to mold video. Im searching through these for one where you covering preparing the slip. Which video ahould i watch for that?
I actually have one just today! This focuses on reclaim, but it is very similar for dry slip as well. I do have some older videos on making slip as well. For beginners, I recommend buying premixed slip - it's just one less thing to worry about.
My slip is made by my local pottery shop, so sharing the details isn't all that useful. It's a cone 6 porcelain like clay body. I get it as a dry powder and mix it myself.
i have a lot of hobbies that i am slowly dabbling in. i love the idea of using 3d printing to make a mold and i would love to try it. however i have *no* idea where i would have it fired.
Ask your local pottery supply store. Often they have firing services. Or check with a local pottery studio. And another option is to check out kilnshare.com where people will rent out their kilns.
@@PotterybyKent if I wanted to cast a mug that is very wide at the bottom then tapers a lot to the top, do to think that could be cast with the handle? Or in your experience would it be easier/ more reliable to cast the handle separately?
I have seen a few molds with integrated handles, but I think they can be problematic if not done right (and limit form options). By doing the handle separately you can avoid those issues.
Very nice and informative video!
Thanks for watching!
Your videos make me want to take up pottery and get a 3D printer. You are super at explaining the steps, and showing what didn’t work and why. Thanks!
It really is fun!
7:26 could you put the moulds in the oven at 40-50 degree Celsius so that they dry out (as you do with desiccant) then you control the moisture in them well and there on less variable to play with.
Interesting idea (although it would take a big oven!) I have seen people place their molds in front of fans, and I have a small dehumidifier I run in the winter to help control ambient moisture.
I really like the concept of printing the plaster molds. The one area I see where Shape Cast could be improved is being able to print the molds without supports. For the Inner mold the inner surface of the shape could include a dome, even if he bottom of the shape to be slip cast if flat. The The recessed area for the attaching screws could be an arc or an angle removing the need for the abrupt overhang. Overall this is a fantastic concept.
Thanks! I want to understand - if you're making the inner mold thicker, then what is the purpose of removing the need for supports (you're using the material and time either way). Also, I'd worry about making the part more rigid as it needs to give a bit during removal. For the screw holes, they're very small and print without supports (or if the slicer insists, you can turn them off for right there without issue).
@@PotterybyKent The two places that would be thicker would be the slip well, and the new inner ark at the top. The draft angle at the slip well could be slightly increased to offset any increased resistance to release, you could also pull against it with more force without breaking the bottom ring where the thread insets are at. I can see where adding the ark at the top could be more problematic depending on the outside shape and its draft angles.
If the supports required can be minimized it would also decrease the overall print time.
None of this should be taken as criticism to the excellent work you are doing. I'm just starting to play with pottery and you have come up with an excellent method of cheaply and quickly creating slip cast molds.
I got it. I could see redesigning the slip well (although since it is so close to the build plate there really isn't much support there). And it's not so much about force being applied (you shouldn't need much) as it being able to deform just a bit (shrinking w/ the frozen mixture).
I can vouch for hydrocal working quite well - my local pottery supply was out of pottery plaster so I picked up a couple of bags of it, and I've been using for most of my molds. As you said it soaks up water a bit slower, and probably takes a bit longer to dry, but it works really well. I'm thinking it may degrade slightly slower as well as we've got quite a few casts out of them so far and I'm not noticing any difference in the mold or the quality.
Yes,I'd imagine it would degrade slower due to the strength. I haven't actually tested the difference but that might be an interesting thing to do. Do the molds dry out as well? I'm guessing that might be another impact of the denser plaster.
@@PotterybyKent possibly a little slower to try, but I haven't tried to really push them either - I do 1 casting a day usually, and they are ready to go the next day - Granted I'm working in an insulated Metal workshop in North Carolina heat (but also high humidity)
Good to know. Thanks for sharing!
The one thing I have going right now is sleigh bells and cowbells. Both molds are straight forward and the casts are easy. But I think porcelain would make better bells for tonal quality, but I think that will be a tough challenge. I'll need to rework my kiln.
But this is a good summary video and destined to be a reference. Thanks.
Thanks and good luck with your pieces!
Hi Kent! First of all thank you so much for the info and wisdom regarding these processes. Truly appreciate that you have shared much experience with us.
I have a question about the slip firing. What would be the temperature you reach with this type of slip? What is the ramp-up profile you use?
Happy to help and answer questions! It's basically the same answer as normal plastic clay used for throwing or hand building. It depends on your clay body. You can get low, medium or high fire casting slips. I use medium fire - Cone 5/6. The firing profile is impacted by your glaze as much as the clay body. So use a profile recommended by whoever makes your glaze. I use a fair number of @oldforgecreations glaze recipes and use the firing schedule similar to what he posted on glazy.
Hello- I really enjoyed your 3d print to mold video. Im searching through these for one where you covering preparing the slip. Which video ahould i watch for that?
I actually have one just today! This focuses on reclaim, but it is very similar for dry slip as well. I do have some older videos on making slip as well. For beginners, I recommend buying premixed slip - it's just one less thing to worry about.
@@PotterybyKent awesome thanks
You're welcome!
Perfect vid for a Saturday drinking coffee! thanks Ken!
Do you mind sharing where you get your slip from or what type you use?
Glad you enjoyed it!
My slip is made by my local pottery shop, so sharing the details isn't all that useful. It's a cone 6 porcelain like clay body. I get it as a dry powder and mix it myself.
i have a lot of hobbies that i am slowly dabbling in. i love the idea of using 3d printing to make a mold and i would love to try it. however i have *no* idea where i would have it fired.
Ask your local pottery supply store. Often they have firing services. Or check with a local pottery studio. And another option is to check out kilnshare.com where people will rent out their kilns.
@@PotterybyKentThank you!
@@PotterybyKent if I wanted to cast a mug that is very wide at the bottom then tapers a lot to the top, do to think that could be cast with the handle? Or in your experience would it be easier/ more reliable to cast the handle separately?
I have seen a few molds with integrated handles, but I think they can be problematic if not done right (and limit form options). By doing the handle separately you can avoid those issues.
Чувак, +1 в карму!!!