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Thanks! Let me know if you have any questions!

To start with, the first answer is the same - whatever you can print. Eg PLA would be ok. Beyond that, it really depends on how much flexibility you want in your rib, and the nature of your clay body. A groggy clay will be harder on the rib, and if you want flexibility you'd want to get TPU working (which can be tricky), and possibly multi-material printing.

Great! Most came off pretty easily. But for the rest I used a bristle brush.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm getting that sense!

I have not seen it. I wasn't holding back intentionally, but I hand't updated the firmware in a while.

@@PotterybyKent watch Louis Rossmann videos as you may not want to - bit of a scandal ATM. You can’t roll back the firmware.

Oh, thanks. I did see that news. I doubt it'll directly impact me one way or the other.

Thanks! Yes, I'm using Bambu's regular plate which is textured and labeled for PETG. The parts breaking off would basically be the same as mouse ears - very thin and attached only on one side. I didn't see/hear any visible signs of moisture (although it is the wet season here now), but the stringing seems to indicate there was. Mostly I was just surprised it didn't just work like my PLA+ does in the printer.

Thanks. I'd seen that suggestion when I noticed the issue and went digging. Unfortunately I think that's a great example of the printer failing to be an appliance and just working. Thanks for the recommendation about Bambu's HF PETG - if/when I try again I'll use it and see how it goes!

If I ever decide to stop working on Shape Cast I might open source some of it. But that is not in the cards at the moment. The best way to contribute right now really is to buy a handle.

It has been suggested several times to do so. However, I want my code to work for a variety of forms, and this one is very narrow so there really isn't much space. The other issue is that you really want to pull both laterally as well as up. I'm not sure what type of feature might meet all of those constraints.

Sure. Happy to do paid custom design work - just reach out.

I have used TPU, but not for this. And I don't see a way it would produce better plaster molds.

@ it releases easier. Do you have a version of your mold system that aspires for 3D objects .stl files?

Release isn't an issue with the methods I've developed and the molds produced. I have done custom work for 3D models. Each of those is highly dependent on the specifics.

Two of these glazes are made using this recipe: www.oldforgecreations.co.uk/blog/first-five-ingredients-where-to-start-with-glaze-making

@@PotterybyKent Thank you very much

That is the nozzle from my air compressor. By carefully blowing air between the clay and the plaster, you can help release a pot that is being stubborn.

@PotterybyKent thanks a lot. This will be helpful. First time seen, probably thats normal that am just learning. Thanks..

I'm not sure it is normal (it is better to have the pot release by itself), but it is also reasonably common.

@@PotterybyKent yes, its nice to know an alternative way. Thanks so much.

Splitting vertically will not work for any revolved shape. Sometimes it could fail when the foot is hollowed out (as I mention with Hammerly's pot). It is really dependent on the geometry of the form and being able to rotate it out of the mold. It would not be able to be pulled straight to the side if the foot has a recess. The real reason to split horizontally first is that 95% of the modeling and associated code needed is the same and it opens to door to a lot more forms. If you're making your own molds with 3d printing or the traditional way, of course do whatever you think works best for your practice. And I don't plan on stopping here. It's just the next waypoint along the journey.

@ I didn’t think of that. That makes sense. Thanks.

Sure thing!

Time. The longer you wait, the more water is absorbed into the plaster and the thicker the clay deposit becomes. To get the wall thickness you want you basically need to test with your slip and plaster.

Thanks! I'm glad it was useful. It can be a bit tricky understanding how all of the parts fit together for sure.

Yes. My clay shrinks about 13%. This is one of the reasons I 3D print my molds - to account for clay shrinkage.

@PotterybyKent я рад за вас, мы свои модели делаем в ручную на станке как будто мы еще в пещере 🤣

The fundamental thing I wanted in moving away from with Blender is that it is mesh based instead of solid geometry based. As such there is also a divide in the 3d model file formats (like stl vs step). One can triangulate a solid model, but going the other way doesn't work so well. (There's also a fair bit of code and whatever I use needs to be scriptable). As far as importing into Shape Cast - it starts with a 2D SVG file and does all of the stuff needed to model plaster and the associated 3d printable molds. To do that, it needs to make a whole bunch of assumptions about the geometry and make the needed offsets (in the right direction), slice off the right bits, add the slip well, flanges, grooves, etc. I've thought a bit about how this might work with 3D models, but it is a harder problem.

Now I'm running my slip through 60 mesh

I print it "upside down" with respect to the pot as I mention. So yes, the inner mold uses supports (you can see them not fully removed). This way any supports don't touch the surface which transfer into the plaster (and in tuen the pot). I use the tree/organic supports on a stock Bambu P1P with default settings and profiles. Shape Cast automatically creates the thickness of the molds - if I remember correctly it is 2.4mm.

Yes, it wasn't possible until now. And having step files does open the door for people to modify the 3d models themselves.

@@PotterybyKent my biggest hope is to add in some small text on the outside wall so I can cast the product name onto the mold for easier organization of molds. Thanks again for all the work and great videos!

Yes, that would be possible now! If you want to try it out before it is integrated, feel free to reach out.

Yes, the water/isopropyl alcohol makes things sooo much easier! That actually arrived from some discussions here on TH-cam as I was building Shape Cast. As far as ChatGPT - I have a PhD in computer science and a career in research so I've been using it for years already!

@@PotterybyKent I saw you had your PhD, I'm also in research. Looking forward to giving this a test run in a few months. Muti-piece molds will really be great, looking forward to it.

Great that you're in research as well! I'm also looking forward to multi-part molds!

Thanks!

I'd love to see your approach work. However in doing this a fair bit now I don't see you being able to get the plaster out of the print for any one piece mold, which is what Shape Cast does. So the pieces are for 2 reasons. One is demolding the plaster, as mentioned. The other is to overcome print bed limitations. Between clay shrinkage and the space needed for plaster, things scale up quickly.

@@PotterybyKent Thank you for the answer! I can understand that mold release could be an issue. If shrinking the inner mold with cold helps it release maybe heating the outer could help? If your print bed is square (as most are) you would get a very marginal size increase by splitting a circle in two. Using your technique to split it in four would however double the size which could be useful. It is just my opinion that it would be more beneficial to gain diameter by trying to decrease the rim size and make the inner and bottom molds into one piece for ease of use. Great project either way, looking forward to see future iterations!

Feel free to model up your own! Actually splitting in half lets you put the parts on the diagonal - so it does help even if the print bed is square. And the feedback I've gotten from 1000s of designs seems to indicate having the parts is working well.

This was done on a regular glaze firing cycle (cone 6). I don't think it would work well on a vase as there is no place for the broken glass to sit or for it to pool while molten.

Thanks. It is plastic, but that would make sense.

Nope. Regular PLA. For the underglaze stamp pad, TPU is likely a good idea. When stamping into leather hard clay, PLA or the like works well.

Already did! It's the first link in the description.

@@PotterybyKent Thanks again now I see it .. helps to click on the more link.

TH-cam does hide it!

That does seem like a good use of TPU

Good catch!

The print speed was already pretty slow for this printer. As far as changes - yes make whatever changes you want for your own design!

You're welcome!

Glad you enjoyed it

I don't see why you'd do fiberglass. If you need to go into production making plaster molds, you'd likely fabricate them out of metal. For smaller scale production potters, the 3d prints should last plenty long.

@ its actually quite common to use fiberglass as material for mold making. my concern with 3d printed mold is that it will take some time to print and the amount of the filament needed, will it still be worthed despite the cost. thanks for sharing!

I'd love to see examples of fiberglass molds for making plaster slip casting molds. As far as cost, I'm sure resin is way more expensive than PLA and doing a fiberglass layup is not fast from what I've seen.

Thanks! I do have handles up on Shape Cast - they are attached after being slip cast separately (and I have videos on that process). Designing the handle into the mug mold itself has some drawbacks so I havent gone that way yet.

It is fun!

I suspect most of those are actually too high of a frequency. I've done several videos on bubbles, and even have a shaker table (however most beginners do not!) I've found the biggest impact of bubble is actually from technique around mixing.

Glad to hear it worked! I hoping the new version that uses binder clips will be ready soon!

I did not! It was a mistake I caught some time later.

You are so welcome

Thanks! The crimson is @oldforgecreations First 5 recipe with the amounts of mason stain and zirconium added. I havent found a good online source recipe for the hare's fur yet.

Thanks! Those glazes are nice because you don't need a bunch of random things for each new recipe! You just need to add the colorants.

@PotterybyKent That sounds like the beautiful part of it! Thanks again!

You're welcome!

Unfortunately it doesn't work that way! If we could 3d print a plaster like substance with all of the right properties, then maybe!

Can you explain the difference in this context?

Thanks a lot!

Thanks! Yes, I could imagine sanding would show more. I guess in a similar vein, you might be able to reveal more using a sponge on greenware.

Thanks! The handle models are for sale on the web page (under handles). I use USG No. 1 Pottery Plaster. It should be available from your pottery supply store. Likewise ask them which casting slip is available (Laguna makes one for example). I use one from my local pottery shop.

@@PotterybyKent Great. Thank you!

You're welcome!

That is great to hear!

They work well, but take some effort. (Practice helps like with most things). However I'm still working on the software so hopefully I'll be able to roll out this version. It is quicker for sure!