Here are some links to the tools I use: GearWrench 3336D Torque Angle Gauge: amzn.to/2OLGeGv Pittsburg Torque Wrench: amzn.to/2vT2FCh Alternate torque angle gauge option: OTC 4554: amzn.to/2Bkkgby More advanced torque angle gauge options: Lisle LI28100 or 28100: amzn.to/2waZtBA (Same design, but with a clamp.) JEGS 81691: amzn.to/2MYiHBH (Digital!)
Question, So do you torque to the proper foot pounds first and then tighten it up to the specified angle ? No one seems to be thoroughly explaining from beginning to end.
I have bad luck with this style gauge. it worked on the first bolt but on the next one it disassembled its self, it didn't break it just came apart into five parts. this happened three times.It took a lot of fiddling around to use, I was unable to get it to work on any other bolt. I bought a "LISLE 28100" gauge. It is a different style it worked perfectly, easy to use, fast no fiddling, it was $20.00 more than the one shown but from my own experience the gauge shown is a toy, the Lisle 28100 is a reliable easy to use tool. Good luck.
Indeed; that's what I did for the rocker arm bolts after my experience here. I uploaded the "Torque Angle by Eye" a while back; I think you commented on that one already, though. - Steve
You should be able to Google the torque specs for your particular application. I search for pdfs of shop manuals. (Exp. Shop Manual for 2000 Chevy C2500 pdf) If you look up just the shop manuals, it’s usually one they are wanting you to buy and not free information you will get from a .pdf formatted file.
I've only rebuilt an engine that had 90 degree TTY head bolts.....easy to 'eyeball' accurately without the angle gauge. But 55, 65, and 95 degree TTY head bolts would be a PITA to do. Why wouldn't the manufacturer set/adjust the initial torque necessary, so that all the bolts require 90 degrees as the final step??
TTY all you need is close. They are not that fussy. People over stress being perfectly on. 90 is common and you can be off 10 any direction or 20 off by spec. Even more is also not going to be an issue. That’s why they use them. Idiot proof.
I have heard that since then from a few reputable people. Still, GM seems to have updated its spec to 5 degrees more than 90, so it made me suspect that precision may be important. I know that with almost 200,000 miles on the engine, those threads are going to laugh at any attempt at precision, though.
@@CarsSimplified That is true about the threads at 200K miles. I have read that the 90 degree is what give them the clamping force needed so It is important to be close to it.
These tools are just stupid to easy to move and take up to much space with a engine in the car. Buy yourself some white finger nail paint mark your bolt then make a mark 90 degrees on the head and use a breaker bar and line up the marks. So simple if you went to high school....lol
Graeme Williams it’s not. It’s actually less complicated. It’s almost idiot proof but people make these out to be a big deal. You have to be closer on with studs and torque than these and they adjust themselves.
Pretty amazing that a so-called professional outfit would instruct us to follow the torque pattern and crank each bolt down all the way to the max torque setting on the first turn of the torque wrench. Each bolt should be torqued down about 1/3 on each crank, the pattern started again and torqued the second 33% down and then finished off with a final third run/application of the torque wrench cranking down to the correct final max foot pounds. Then the torque angle measurement should be applied. Never should full/max torque be applied only once to each bolt on the first run taking it to the max torque setting. Doing it in 2 50% runs is a way to cheat if you like cheating on things like the internals of a freshly rebuilt combustion motor or its parts. I mean it’s only going to cost thousands in the event of failure and customers don’t mind as Long as you hold it down to thousands in the error department - clients can always just bring their car back into your shop overnight for that new motor rebuild, no inconvenience there. Wow! Learned that in junior high shop class and yes, I know a ton of you guys think close is just fine. That’s why we mechanics are often considered about the same, ethically, as the old 1940s and 50s car salesman. I can however understand how important it is to save 75 seconds by skipping torquing head down in thirds As, in the event of failure, that’s only about $100 per second
Exactly. On my application of a 5.7 liter Vortec: 1st step - torque all head bolts to 22 ft/lbs. 2nd step - torque shortest bolts to 55º, medium bolts to 65º and the long bolts to 75º.
Here are some links to the tools I use: GearWrench 3336D Torque Angle Gauge: amzn.to/2OLGeGv
Pittsburg Torque Wrench: amzn.to/2vT2FCh
Alternate torque angle gauge option: OTC 4554: amzn.to/2Bkkgby
More advanced torque angle gauge options:
Lisle LI28100 or 28100: amzn.to/2waZtBA (Same design, but with a clamp.)
JEGS 81691: amzn.to/2MYiHBH (Digital!)
Thank you.
I want to do my crankshaft pulley. I understand the extra angle concept now. Appreciated.
Glad it helped! I hope your project goes smoothly!
Question, So do you torque to the proper foot pounds first and then tighten it up to the specified angle ? No one seems to be thoroughly explaining from beginning to end.
That is correct
Question, So do you torque to the proper foot pounds first and then tighten it up to the specified angle ?
Yes
I have bad luck with this style gauge. it worked on the first bolt but on the next one it disassembled its self, it didn't break it just came apart into five parts. this happened three times.It took a lot of fiddling around to use, I was unable to get it to work on any other bolt. I bought a "LISLE 28100" gauge. It is a different style it worked perfectly, easy to use, fast no fiddling, it was $20.00 more than the one shown but from my own experience the gauge shown is a toy, the Lisle 28100 is a reliable easy to use tool. Good luck.
Nice
grate video we just bult a 3.1
Question: are rebuild heads some what like buying new heads?
In most ways. Are any particular details a concern?
Those can be clunking to use, often I just accurately eyeball it.
Indeed; that's what I did for the rocker arm bolts after my experience here. I uploaded the "Torque Angle by Eye" a while back; I think you commented on that one already, though.
- Steve
I feel like if I did the other stuff besides the torque the bolt will snap on me
The problem, where do u find torque list for bolt...!
You should be able to Google the torque specs for your particular application. I search for pdfs of shop manuals. (Exp. Shop Manual for 2000 Chevy C2500 pdf) If you look up just the shop manuals, it’s usually one they are wanting you to buy and not free information you will get from a .pdf formatted file.
You weren't accurately stopping at 95 degrees. 95 was between the 90 and the next mark.
I've only rebuilt an engine that had 90 degree TTY head bolts.....easy to 'eyeball' accurately without the angle gauge.
But 55, 65, and 95 degree TTY head bolts would be a PITA to do.
Why wouldn't the manufacturer set/adjust the initial torque necessary, so that all the bolts require 90 degrees as the final step??
$$$$$$$$$$$$
whoa this is my engine lucky me
TTY all you need is close. They are not that fussy. People over stress being perfectly on. 90 is common and you can be off 10 any direction or 20 off by spec. Even more is also not going to be an issue. That’s why they use them. Idiot proof.
I never use a gauge. I useto use whiteout to mark and stopped that seeing how far out they can be really. Just give it what feels 90 and forget it.
I have heard that since then from a few reputable people. Still, GM seems to have updated its spec to 5 degrees more than 90, so it made me suspect that precision may be important. I know that with almost 200,000 miles on the engine, those threads are going to laugh at any attempt at precision, though.
@@CarsSimplified That is true about the threads at 200K miles. I have read that the 90 degree is what give them the clamping force needed so It is important to be close to it.
These tools are just stupid to easy to move and take up to much space with a engine in the car. Buy yourself some white finger nail paint mark your bolt then make a mark 90 degrees on the head and use a breaker bar and line up the marks. So simple if you went to high school....lol
Load of bullshit. Why do manufacturers make previously simple jobs more complicated ?
Graeme Williams it’s not. It’s actually less complicated. It’s almost idiot proof but people make these out to be a big deal. You have to be closer on with studs and torque than these and they adjust themselves.
Times are different now. Different metal technologies call for different tactics.
Pretty amazing that a so-called professional outfit would instruct us to follow the torque pattern and crank each bolt down all the way to the max torque setting on the first turn of the torque wrench. Each bolt should be torqued down about 1/3 on each crank, the pattern started again and torqued the second 33% down and then finished off with a final third run/application of the torque wrench cranking down to the correct final max foot pounds. Then the torque angle measurement should be applied. Never should full/max torque be applied only once to each bolt on the first run taking it to the max torque setting. Doing it in 2 50% runs is a way to cheat if you like cheating on things like the internals of a freshly rebuilt combustion motor or its parts. I mean it’s only going to cost thousands in the event of failure and customers don’t mind as Long as you hold it down to thousands in the error department - clients can always just bring their car back into your shop overnight for that new motor rebuild, no inconvenience there. Wow! Learned that in junior high shop class and yes, I know a ton of you guys think close is just fine. That’s why we mechanics are often considered about the same, ethically, as the old 1940s and 50s car salesman. I can however understand how important it is to save 75 seconds by skipping torquing head down in thirds As, in the event of failure, that’s only about $100 per second
Exactly. On my application of a 5.7 liter Vortec: 1st step - torque all head bolts to 22 ft/lbs. 2nd step - torque shortest bolts to 55º, medium bolts to 65º and the long bolts to 75º.
This is silly. Anyone should be able to turn the ratchet a quarter turn.