No worries buddy! Please let us know how it goes in a new comment when you do, I'd love to hear if it went well (and if anything was a struggle). Good luck!
Great tutorial, thanks! It would be great to see how you completed the whole shield, so we can see how the reference lines up with the finished article.
I actually put a bit of time into it (difficult, as predicted!). If I finish it I'll absolutely share. Or maybe I should just share now... It's not successful yet but that's probably useful for people to see, or just nice to know we all struggle!
Id absolutely love to see another one for more flatter serfases like a straight sword or the body of the sheild you where painting in the video and for golds and coppers would be amazing
That's a shiny non-metallic metal result on that Orruk's spear blade. The green and blue reflection on parts of the metal effect is splendid work. Have a good Christmas holidays and a happy new year painting new minitures in 2025. 🎄🎁🎆
For those small details like the nick in the blade, I have one tip that might help with accuracy if anyone is finding that holding your breath just isn't enough. Here's what I do: I set the piece down on the table and have it propped up so that it is facing me. I then hold my brush using BOTH hands. Having my non dominant hand further back on the brush. I then place both wrists against the table and use my body weight to hold them in place. My dominant hand holds perfectly still and my non dominant gently moves to pivot the brush like a turret. Hopefully that made sense and it could help someone. I find I can/paint incredibly fine details that way with zero hand shake. And my hands shake a lot thanks to some nerve damage and just getting older.
Fantastic tutorial, thanks for posting! In the video, you mentioned a ‘cartoon’ look when adding the first layer. Could you expand on that in a future video and do a cel shading/comic book style tutorial please? Bonus points if you use genestealer cult models!
Ill try this out next time i have a sword to paint. Stealth/camo effects video would be awesome, ive got a lictor on my to do list that i want to do something different with.
I actually tried and failed to do a camo cloak recording recently, the cloak turned out fine but I wanted a simpler method for the tutorial, as well as the option to show 'active' camo/phasing cloaks. We'll get to this one for sure, but camo in general might be a better approach for it!
If lots of people find this one useful we'll definitely follow it up, I'm actually wondering do we do a 'Copper'/ 'Gold' video and involve all (NMM & TMM), make it more about approach to getting the colour right... What do you think?
They're imminent! They'd be out but we had some finalising of components/accessories we wanted tied up for any of the army/batch-painters out there. It will be new year, new EGGY hobby very soon, we're sat on a first wave that's ready to ship on launching :).
How best to explain, I would like to see a color exploration of firelight and moonlight along the lines here. There are lots of OSL firelight/moonlight videos out, including you. My issue is less how, as what should be painted color wise? I am painting a "viking" bust, specifically the Padded viking bust from Loot Studios. His head is turned and I want him doing something like turning to look back at a burning village. How does firelight work on different materials and colors? How would you paint firelight on a dark green or dark blue cloak, dark leather, a real light leather, wood, fur, blackened metal like axe heads and helmets that are not buffed shiny. but left blackened? Fire that is close like a lamp or cooking fire would be brighter and more shadow, but a burning house/village would be less directional and further away, so more muted. Many camp fire photos just make people look red or black, but we need to keep our base colors in. I am unsure of how fire, red or a magical color interact with materials and colors and whether to paint the color and wash or glaze the firelight over or to paint the fire color directly. other videos show how to do, but not what is happening with the colors. Does that make any sense? Maybe I am just complicating things.
This is a wonderful idea, I wonder how we could package that in a tempting way for other people... 'How to Paint Moody Lighting'? Any suggestions? It's a hard topic, one that I've struggled with myself, especially trying to make it work on an army-level, where you need to cut corners. One suggestion would be to look at appropriate classical paintings and steal their colours :) it's a very good start
@@ArtisOpus "OSL on various materials"? My thought is not a how to, as that is a basic OSL tutorial. I see it as more of a discussion on how OSL lighting would react on materials. So far his cloak is dark blue, stippled upper shoulders with turquoise for moon light and front a dark purple where it absorbs the fire light. The Tunic I painted with a Buff + Red, it was to orange, so I added more buff to shadow areas so folds are more red reflecting the fire light, and low areas still buff...ish. I then blended that to buff away from the fire, to blue buff in shadow. Then I added red or buff vertical lines suggesting material. Not sure if it works. His round black thing on his belt is grey black, highlighted in salmon rose and red on the fire side, as is the knob in the middle. Red drybrush on fire side, turquoise opposite for some color variation, then red glaze marks built up, but looks more like rust at the moment. I hope when the arms are added, all together it works. But I still have to do his broaches, in NMM Silver and reflecting red (easier part), his helmet like the belt thing. Very little face, but I want a grey/black or brown beard (maybe a tutorial there, hair colors going grey), no idea how to reflect light there. No idea how to reflect the fire light on the leather belt either. Then fire light on part of the inside of the bear wood shield furthest away from the fire light and shadow on the part blocked by his body. Outside of the shield I hope to have decorated yellow and maroon, then reflecting some moonlight. The other side closest to the fire has a battle axe, this will be blackened metals with not sure how, NMM cutting edge reflecting the fire on one side and NMM reflecting either grass/missing legs or the stand, not sure yet. Here, firelight on leather and wood handle, not sure how. I basically still have shield, axe, helmet, broaches and hair to figure out. This figure runs the gambit of different materials and all need to reflect the fire light differently. This is why I mean more discussing light v. material, than another OSL how to video. The figure: app.lootstudios.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/JN2108BC16.png
@Temporal_Assassin @ArtisOpus "How different materials reflect and absorb light" maybe? There's probably a bit of colour theory in there too, from reading the original post? Like if you add a red glow to a blue surface, does that result in purple? Sounds like a cool video topic.
I always get kind of frustrated with how big these things look in videos but then I'm trying to recreate this stuff and the damn things are tiny in my huge hands and I can barely even see what I'm doing XD
I'll be honest here, I've thought 'that's fine' before, then zoomed on the camera and it's helped me out with where I can fine-tune stuff, since starting recording it's become a more often-used tool in my painting, you can use a phone-camera in the same way :).
Lord Baeron? Good ring to it 😅. Very soon my man, a last-minute hold-up on the accessories meant we could launch pre-Christmas, but we're pretty much ready to go, keep the eyes peeled. Hope you had a great Christmas!
I'll be honest here and say that I dislike the look of NMM, it feels to me that it'll look good only from certain angles and if not looked at these angles the paint will have it's metallic "sheen" look really fake. That's why I'm a fan of the True metallic metals look.
That's all good :). We use a lot of these tricks on our TMM, and they are a huge part of what helps us make it look exciting and eye-catching, so you can apply all of it with real shiny paint
That's absolutely fine! Both have plusses and minuses, and you can absolutely apply NMM techniques to up the level on your NMM (it's one of our channel favourites!)... It always gets admiring comments IRL, I think it's definitely special on an army-level
That would look great in the Display Cabinet from your Kickstarter... oh, wait, what do you mean they have not been delivered 2 YEARS LATER? And you are just giving vague and false responses to the backers asking when they will receive them?!
If you're checking the Kickstarter updates still you'll note that the cabinets have reached all of the EU, and there's a shipping container in the US, they would have been in before Christmas but there was some very extreme weather. We hope they're worth the wait, they're very special in-person! Sorry for the delay
@@ArtisOpus I am checking the updates regurarly and the only thing they write are vague statements or dates that are being cancelled one after the other. Last update was that the cabinets will arrive by November. Apparently that is in the past. And all you keep saying is, “they are in the next batch” or “they’ll be sent soon”. Even in a reply to a direct comment your people in the beginning of November said “your order will be sent out next week”.
non metallic metal has a look to it though, often times it looks better than just slapping on some metallic paints (though IMO using metallic paints in your non metallic metal can look even better)
There are! Different horses for different courses, and you can always use these methods with true metallics to make them look extra shiny at small scale, it's one of my favourite ways to paint.
My advice is to just try NMM. After you finished painting the miniature you can critique yourself and look to improve. I'm currently doing NMM on a large 54mm scale space marine. It's not perfect. But It's looking really good after years of practice.
As a follow up, NMM on a big flat surface. I tried to do a blade that was straight up and down and all I could manage was a very bad zebra.
My man, we have all been there! I think it looks like you're top-comments, so plenty of others have, too!
I would love to see NMM tutorials for other metals, like gold/brass, bronze, and copper. This was amazingly helpful!
Thank you :). Special attention on key colours etc? Let us know what would be the most useful
Best vid Ive seen on NMM!!! thank you
Thanks, buddy! Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year incoming :)
Been terrified of this for ages! Might actually give this a go on the next mini with applicable areas. Thanks man! 😀
No worries buddy! Please let us know how it goes in a new comment when you do, I'd love to hear if it went well (and if anything was a struggle). Good luck!
would love to see you do that whole shield as there are so many shapes to learn how to do long straight blades are the hardest for me
Great tutorial, thanks! It would be great to see how you completed the whole shield, so we can see how the reference lines up with the finished article.
I actually put a bit of time into it (difficult, as predicted!). If I finish it I'll absolutely share.
Or maybe I should just share now... It's not successful yet but that's probably useful for people to see, or just nice to know we all struggle!
Great video and I plan to give this a try. Thank you.
No worries, good luck!
Id absolutely love to see another one for more flatter serfases like a straight sword or the body of the sheild you where painting in the video and for golds and coppers would be amazing
Considering I hardly ever paint nmm I found this really helpful. Now to try it out!
Maybe it's time, Darren :) hope you had a good Christmas, buddy! 🎄
@@ArtisOpus same to you bud
That's a shiny non-metallic metal result on that Orruk's spear blade. The green and blue reflection on parts of the metal effect is splendid work.
Have a good Christmas holidays and a happy new year painting new minitures in 2025. 🎄🎁🎆
Thanks my man, hope you had a cracking Christmas, and best wishes for a hobby-packed new year, too! ❤️
For those small details like the nick in the blade, I have one tip that might help with accuracy if anyone is finding that holding your breath just isn't enough. Here's what I do:
I set the piece down on the table and have it propped up so that it is facing me. I then hold my brush using BOTH hands. Having my non dominant hand further back on the brush. I then place both wrists against the table and use my body weight to hold them in place. My dominant hand holds perfectly still and my non dominant gently moves to pivot the brush like a turret.
Hopefully that made sense and it could help someone. I find I can/paint incredibly fine details that way with zero hand shake. And my hands shake a lot thanks to some nerve damage and just getting older.
That's a cool technique! Whatever helps is good :). Bracing is so important, regardless of approach/task
A great tutorial as ever, is it odd Im most excited by the eggs?
Fantastic tutorial, thanks for posting! In the video, you mentioned a ‘cartoon’ look when adding the first layer. Could you expand on that in a future video and do a cel shading/comic book style tutorial please? Bonus points if you use genestealer cult models!
Ill try this out next time i have a sword to paint. Stealth/camo effects video would be awesome, ive got a lictor on my to do list that i want to do something different with.
I actually tried and failed to do a camo cloak recording recently, the cloak turned out fine but I wanted a simpler method for the tutorial, as well as the option to show 'active' camo/phasing cloaks.
We'll get to this one for sure, but camo in general might be a better approach for it!
Seeing some different recipes like (the gold for that mask shown) or how to handle larger rounded or nmm on hammers would be cool!
If lots of people find this one useful we'll definitely follow it up, I'm actually wondering do we do a 'Copper'/ 'Gold' video and involve all (NMM & TMM), make it more about approach to getting the colour right... What do you think?
@ yeah that would be great! Kinda like a combo of this video and the previous one with the tau leg, but instead of steel gold/copper!
Need that egg in my life
They're imminent! They'd be out but we had some finalising of components/accessories we wanted tied up for any of the army/batch-painters out there. It will be new year, new EGGY hobby very soon, we're sat on a first wave that's ready to ship on launching :).
Amazing tutorial. Going to try it out this holiday. Could we have one for NMM gold, please?
Very good idea buddy, I think we can start working out some recipes (or stealing them! Rich's website we shared is quite the resource😁)
Please do the shield of a Saurus warrior in gold/bronze NMM :)
You're putting me up against strong opposition there.. this is a great idea though, and you know how much I love the lizards! Happy Christmas buddy 🎄
How best to explain, I would like to see a color exploration of firelight and moonlight along the lines here. There are lots of OSL firelight/moonlight videos out, including you. My issue is less how, as what should be painted color wise? I am painting a "viking" bust, specifically the Padded viking bust from Loot Studios. His head is turned and I want him doing something like turning to look back at a burning village. How does firelight work on different materials and colors? How would you paint firelight on a dark green or dark blue cloak, dark leather, a real light leather, wood, fur, blackened metal like axe heads and helmets that are not buffed shiny. but left blackened? Fire that is close like a lamp or cooking fire would be brighter and more shadow, but a burning house/village would be less directional and further away, so more muted. Many camp fire photos just make people look red or black, but we need to keep our base colors in. I am unsure of how fire, red or a magical color interact with materials and colors and whether to paint the color and wash or glaze the firelight over or to paint the fire color directly. other videos show how to do, but not what is happening with the colors. Does that make any sense? Maybe I am just complicating things.
This is a wonderful idea, I wonder how we could package that in a tempting way for other people... 'How to Paint Moody Lighting'? Any suggestions?
It's a hard topic, one that I've struggled with myself, especially trying to make it work on an army-level, where you need to cut corners.
One suggestion would be to look at appropriate classical paintings and steal their colours :) it's a very good start
@@ArtisOpus "OSL on various materials"?
My thought is not a how to, as that is a basic OSL tutorial. I see it as more of a discussion on how OSL lighting would react on materials.
So far his cloak is dark blue, stippled upper shoulders with turquoise for moon light and front a dark purple where it absorbs the fire light. The Tunic I painted with a Buff + Red, it was to orange, so I added more buff to shadow areas so folds are more red reflecting the fire light, and low areas still buff...ish. I then blended that to buff away from the fire, to blue buff in shadow. Then I added red or buff vertical lines suggesting material. Not sure if it works.
His round black thing on his belt is grey black, highlighted in salmon rose and red on the fire side, as is the knob in the middle. Red drybrush on fire side, turquoise opposite for some color variation, then red glaze marks built up, but looks more like rust at the moment. I hope when the arms are added, all together it works.
But I still have to do his broaches, in NMM Silver and reflecting red (easier part), his helmet like the belt thing. Very little face, but I want a grey/black or brown beard (maybe a tutorial there, hair colors going grey), no idea how to reflect light there. No idea how to reflect the fire light on the leather belt either.
Then fire light on part of the inside of the bear wood shield furthest away from the fire light and shadow on the part blocked by his body. Outside of the shield I hope to have decorated yellow and maroon, then reflecting some moonlight.
The other side closest to the fire has a battle axe, this will be blackened metals with not sure how, NMM cutting edge reflecting the fire on one side and NMM reflecting either grass/missing legs or the stand, not sure yet. Here, firelight on leather and wood handle, not sure how. I basically still have shield, axe, helmet, broaches and hair to figure out. This figure runs the gambit of different materials and all need to reflect the fire light differently. This is why I mean more discussing light v. material, than another OSL how to video.
The figure: app.lootstudios.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/JN2108BC16.png
@Temporal_Assassin @ArtisOpus
"How different materials reflect and absorb light" maybe? There's probably a bit of colour theory in there too, from reading the original post? Like if you add a red glow to a blue surface, does that result in purple? Sounds like a cool video topic.
It never fails to amaze me how incredibly realistic he can get these tiny details
I always get kind of frustrated with how big these things look in videos but then I'm trying to recreate this stuff and the damn things are tiny in my huge hands and I can barely even see what I'm doing XD
@zwenkwiel816 eyeballs, seriously
Thanks man, it's all about thinking about the sequence you do things in, and also 'Just the tip' of course :)
I'll be honest here, I've thought 'that's fine' before, then zoomed on the camera and it's helped me out with where I can fine-tune stuff, since starting recording it's become a more often-used tool in my painting, you can use a phone-camera in the same way :).
Eyeballs can get in the bin though. ESPECIALLY since GW ones seem to be getting smaller. Not a fan ^^
Thanks for the vid BAERON LOL. When we getting getting the eggs?
Lord Baeron? Good ring to it 😅. Very soon my man, a last-minute hold-up on the accessories meant we could launch pre-Christmas, but we're pretty much ready to go, keep the eyes peeled.
Hope you had a great Christmas!
How to Paint Gradients across a glass cockpit canopy.
Like suggested reflective glass? Cool idea!
How awesome 👍👍
You are a Patron Saint of NMM. Thank you.
I'll take that! Thank you! 🎄
I'll be honest here and say that I dislike the look of NMM, it feels to me that it'll look good only from certain angles and if not looked at these angles the paint will have it's metallic "sheen" look really fake.
That's why I'm a fan of the True metallic metals look.
That's all good :). We use a lot of these tricks on our TMM, and they are a huge part of what helps us make it look exciting and eye-catching, so you can apply all of it with real shiny paint
This is controversial but… I don’t like NMM. True metallic metals highlighted properly look way better imo 😬
That's absolutely fine! Both have plusses and minuses, and you can absolutely apply NMM techniques to up the level on your NMM (it's one of our channel favourites!)... It always gets admiring comments IRL, I think it's definitely special on an army-level
That would look great in the Display Cabinet from your Kickstarter... oh, wait, what do you mean they have not been delivered 2 YEARS LATER?
And you are just giving vague and false responses to the backers asking when they will receive them?!
Wait what? I almost backed that, that's crazy.
@@Chief_Tanuki lucky you didn't... I never expected this from them, I thought they would be reliable... apparently not...
If you're checking the Kickstarter updates still you'll note that the cabinets have reached all of the EU, and there's a shipping container in the US, they would have been in before Christmas but there was some very extreme weather.
We hope they're worth the wait, they're very special in-person! Sorry for the delay
@@ArtisOpus I am checking the updates regurarly and the only thing they write are vague statements or dates that are being cancelled one after the other. Last update was that the cabinets will arrive by November. Apparently that is in the past. And all you keep saying is, “they are in the next batch” or “they’ll be sent soon”. Even in a reply to a direct comment your people in the beginning of November said “your order will be sent out next week”.
Uh...there are metallic paints...
non metallic metal has a look to it though, often times it looks better than just slapping on some metallic paints (though IMO using metallic paints in your non metallic metal can look even better)
@@zwenkwiel816 A combination of both is the happy middle ground
There are! Different horses for different courses, and you can always use these methods with true metallics to make them look extra shiny at small scale, it's one of my favourite ways to paint.
My advice is to just try NMM. After you finished painting the miniature you can critique yourself and look to improve. I'm currently doing NMM on a large 54mm scale space marine. It's not perfect. But It's looking really good after years of practice.
100%! Jump in! (And there's always biostrip if things go really wrong😅😲)
@@ArtisOpus No! No Biostrip! It shall forever remain on my shelf in my bedroom for me to see every night and complain about.