Simple SMOOTH transitions on warhammer vehicles/panels
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2024
- Buy the brushes used in this video: store.artis-op...
Following last week's video on large curved panels, we're covering flat ones, and going for a little more subtlety, perfect for painting warhammer tanks and vehicles without an airbrush!
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In this video Byron’s using the Artis Opus Brushes!
Series D: These high-quality brushes are perfectly designed for stippling, smudging, drybrushing, buffing, and even edge-highlighting. store.artis-op...
Series S - The perfect point, the ideal everyday brush: store.artis-op...
Series M - Shorter heads for precision detailing: store.artis-op...
Series D Brush set: store.artis-op...
XL Series D: store.artis-op...
Accessories (brush racks, cleaner, pallets): store.artis-op...
Music: Bensounds
#ArtisOpus #SeriesD #Drybrushing
What should we cover next? We'll give a set and a palette to the best suggestion/question!
🤚🤚in the comments if the hairdryer was too loud (sorry!).
Buy the original miniature drybrushes used in this video: store.artis-opus.com/collections/series-d-drybrushing
i've only recently found your channel and really love how your tutorials are filmed and edited. You explain why you are doing everything really well in a simple way to understand and put into practice. I would love to see a drybrush tutorial doing a gradient fade like this but on a model that has trickier access rather than a large flat panel as in this video, like a marine for example.
Great video as always. Have you ever done different flesh tones with your high-quality, fast-time techniques?
I’ve got a project I want to do where the minis have what is basically lava bases and are up lit from below so really strong osl. Maybe a video creating this effect with stippling and dry brushing instead of the obvious choice of the air brush would be interesting?
Grim dark Bob Ross strikes again! Absolutely brilliant video, as per usual!
I don't think anyone's ever casually dropped a compliment this meaningful
Crispy results. Probably my favourite (so far) this year.
I have to say, I love your down to earth approach, really showing us that with a little bit of practice, everyone can have great results. a year of painting with no guidance didn't get me very far, content like this let me make massive steps in weeks, turning painting into a joy instead of a frustration.
A good, easy to follow tutorial.
Can you do one on brush care? In between cleaning for "normal brushes" drybrushes, but also how to clean them at the end of the day, or how do you clean them if you could not do a proper end of day cleaning due to being called away...
We will definitely do this, even if we get in a rough and ready version first
@@ArtisOpusyeah please do
I'd love to see a tutorial for horses, I have a bunch of Bretonians to do and it's the fur I really have no clue on - opportunity for some stippling maybe?
Kind of feels criminal that we haven't done this so far... +1 from us.
@@ArtisOpusnew BB mini is a deer 🦌 which is close
Awesome results and SO MANY great tips in here (as always) Byron!
Thanks Spen, lovely work on the Dreadnought recently!
Couple years into the hobby and I've been adopting your style since damn near the start, and I'd love to see your take on filigree. Some different techniques, cheaty ways, methodical ways. Feels like it's on every model I paint of late and would love to tackle it with confidence! Thanks for everything; past, present and future.
GW do lover overdetailing currently! This is a good suggestion, thank you
Your Animal Farm reference got a giggle out of me 😊
Had we not had deadlines it would have got even more silly, glad we got a giggle though!
Well done! Despite the fact that I have a high quality air brush (and compressor), I hate using it and simply prefer to work with a brush. I welcome every technique which expands my possibilities.
Thank you for the comment! Is it the noise? Sometimes I want to use mine, sometimes not, it is nice to have the tools.in your hobby arsenal!
I like the build up of the deep sea blue colour for that part of the Ultramarine Ballistus Dreadnought. The white square coat in-between the masking tape was a good choice for the chapter symbol transfer piece.
Thanks dude, I'm sat wondering how would it have looked if I went diagonal or something?
Perhaps that would look more 40k, could have been cool?
I’d love to see a couple of shorts as a coda to this video and the ‘large flat panels’ video from last week, which would cover doing these same techniques with metallic paints!
the first 2 minutes of this video where SO helpful.... thank you
Glad it was worth it dude! Have to sneak assembly in somehow, I don't think people like clicking assembly stuff that isn't 'how to paint X', even if it's widely useful
@@ArtisOpus I’m very new to this and currently mid build phase (lol deep end 2000pts of tau RetCal 😅). But talking about the seem lines and sanding are awesomely helpful, something really useful to know would be how smooth to sand because time wise, a perfectly smooth model can be done but build time can be hours longer! Sneaking in some prep or maybe a shorts series is great. A genuine thank you (p.s got some godhands - prep time game changer 😇)
Glue and how much and how to deal with accidental overspill also would be useful
Yes to more vehicles! Maybe you could show something for the metal bits of the dreadnought? (is it called undercarriage? :D)
Like this, would work for big knights, too!
*knight + Undercarriage joke*
If you ever see this: pull the tape off by "tugging" it at an angle. it lets the tape flex slightly and release with less a chance of peeling the paint if you were to pull up.
The best way to peel off tape is to pull it off so it’s bent back on itself. That puts the smallest amount of stress on the surface it’s stuck to.
That’s a great technique to make an edge and fade in some darker colour on the bottom of the edges. It simple enough even I could do it.
The thing that always gets me is that the wet paint on the pallette is never the same saturation/brightness as when you put it on the model. Constantly finding myself painting something, leaving it out to dry, coming back and finding it far duller than I expected to be.
What ranges are you doing dude? Paints to generally dry slightly more dull, it's part of why I start with such deep blues (Huldra)
Thank you for the lesson in Essen.
Our pleasure buddy, have you put it to use on your minis yet?
Large, Flat and damaged... i feel attacked :P Good work on the paint job!
😂😂😂 got a real laugh out of me there, hope we entertained you, too :)
It's really cool seeing you use the tape. Great video would be other useful hobby products you use like that to get great effects 🙂🙂 And tips for getting the most out of them! 😁
Thanks Byron
I love your results and your approach! I wonder if you could do a video about painting relatively small, detailed miniatures like the Infinity range or the GWs Lord of the Rings minis?
We haven't covered these much on the channel to be fair. Maybe a generic 'small minis' tips video could be a good idea?
@@ArtisOpus certainly! I'd love anything because I'm mostly doing these small sculpts and sometimes find that it can be hard to replicate your effects on smaller areas. I'm not even talking specifically ultra-small details, but things like cloaks sometimes turn out to be tricky when a mini is small and the sculpts deep.
Byron this is amazing, exactly what I needed after your other vehicle tutorial. Top tips on the edges and as always make it look so easy. I've held off painting my vehicles but feel as though I could give it a go now.
Quick Q on colour choice, if you were doing dark angels green for vehicles would colours would you choose? The usual warpstone/moot feels like it might be a bit much
There's an equivalent of the huldra blue called 'despair green' that I would mix with a bit of something dark deep and not strong from GW (even a bit of incubi), you could add this to anything like warpstone, and get a more appropriate base.
Thank you so much, definitely give it a go, you might surprise yourself!
Another great / inspiring video!! Would a future video on scares or 'battle damage' to figure bodies, faces be possible?
I think it would be great to have a list of what paints are strong coverage vs weak, and Byron seems to have an encyclopedic knowledge of them.
Nice, sexy results as always!
Hopefully I'll be able to catch one live soon again. :'(
We'll catch you at some point Himle! Thank you
Would like to see how to create a weathered/textured look on an entire model like a marine using stippling? From stippling base layers to highlights etc
Hey! I would love to see a small model with pink skin getting painted! Pink horrors would be dope! I think pink is messy as drybrush. I also think they a difficult because of their limbs all over the place ! Would be cool to see ❤❤
Love your content!
Having been through this myself on these minis, they are tricky. We could definitely share some tips on how to keep things soft, though
@@ArtisOpus would be so nice. I'm really struggeling to get drybrush to work on them. and the pink color.
I'm really enjoying drybrushing because of you! so would be great if you had some tips or maybe could show how to make it work :)
thanks! Keep up the good work. Really looking forward to new videos from you!
Nice work 👍👍
Thanks, buddy :)
amazing but i couldn't stop thinking how much faster this would be with a airbrush lol. can't wait to get one after i move to my house
Would love to see a guide on drybrushing grungy, dare I say Orky vehicles, so that they look like they’ve really seen some great Krumpin’ action
Well that's just an amazing suggestion, metallics, rust, maybe some hazards... it's basically all the good stuff!
As always, thanks for the awesome video, was just wondering what masking tape are you using?
This is fantastic and I think you have done a great job. I didnt think I would be able to get a nice gradient fade on big vehicles like my Dreadnought because I dont own an airbrush, but now I might give this a try! Here is a question for you. Can this be achieved with Whites armour (I use Ulthuan grey, built up to White scar) but I find that if I drybrush I end up getting chalky texture. Especially on large panels like this? Any suggestions? - Thank you!
It absolutely can buddy - we already did white here :D.
It is more tricky all over, but you just have to take a little care, and save your strongest white (maybe still not pure white) for the very edges :)
microset and microsol are my favorite hobby add-on
but most people are using them poorly
do not use water for your transfers, brush SOL onto the back of the decal paper
the decal activates faster, be stronger and behave nicer
when the transfer is ready
brush SET onto the model where the transfer is going
this cleans and preps the surface and makes positioning much nicer
apply the transfer
let dry , do not touch while drying
apply additional coats of SOL to areas that have yet to conform or blend (like edges or near rivets)
allow decal to completely dry between coats to avoid unwanted damage
let dry
apply top coat of medium to match painted surface (ie Lahmian medium for GW paints)
this makes it look and behave like the rest of your paint work, so weathering and extra steps are much easier and look natural
This is such a good comment! Incredible tips, thank you for taking the time to write it out
I’m going to say can we get some guides on painting animals? Horses, dogs, birds, and then fur, feathers, scales, etc. there are more and more being released and I feel the approach you take would sit well to those things.
You're not the first to talk about horses recently. It's a big obvious hole in our content TBH
Duncan, are there any additional considerations we need to take into account when using this technique with metallic paints? My Celestial Lions space marine vehicle pool manager would really like to know!
Bob Ross of Minis.
When you're taking excess stick off of your masking tape, I'd recommend putting it down on the back of your hand rather than on your clothes. You get more even reduction in adhesion, and no risk of transferring any bits of fluff or lint to the model/along the edge of the tape.
Love this, thank you!
That final point was a bit of a throwaway but... Matt varnish with contrast medium? As in mixing the two or actually using the contrast medium as varnish? I feel really dumb for asking 😂
Not at all, always ask! I just used it *AS* a matte varnish :). Not dumb, it's a bit of a sideways use!
@@ArtisOpus blimey. Every day is a school day!
Thank you for these helpful videos. So good to see the single steps. A little tip for removing the masking tape: always pull the tape in the direction of the rest of the tape, which is still on the model. With this pull-direction it will the least force is exerted on the surface. This always was telling me my grandpa, who was a master painter craftsman ;-)
Does this not make it more likely to pull up a 'flake' of paint? Thank you for the tip, curious on your answer :)
@@ArtisOpus In my experience, this means that the tape is less likely to tear and also creates less pulling force on the surface. If paint comes off, it is usually because it itself did not have good surface adhesion. My experience comes more from painting with a large brush on walls ;-) But it should also be transferable to smaller objects.
In general, a 45 degree angle is recommended when removing. Maybe you have more experience in it :)
Great video. I would love to know how to do this on black vehicles!
I'd love a grimdark tutorial, my models always end up very grim, very dark and very much lacking contrast
:D it is hard. And I would love to do this, it's something I've struggled with myself!
Nice, can you do a camouflage video on something a bit WW2 based as a change up from the GW stuff (not that it’s a bad thing) just would be interesting to see how you handle something historical or flames of war type stuff
I'd be happy to if people would watch, any suggestions on how to frame it to broaden the appeal so it could reach as many people as possible? Even our legions stuff in the past suffered
@@ArtisOpus I would probably get some armour and some infantry and do a scheme that could be used for imperial guard to some team Yankee, so you could have a part off a leman russ to a chieftain MBT , from a guardsman to a soldier from a 28 mm appropriate modernish era, then sell it as appropriate for war gaming to a base layer for model making for beginners. We normally had a start in airfix kits as a kid before getting into war gaming
I'd like a tip on keeping your paints containing white from drying on your brush within 5 secs :D
You could give an Imperial Knight a go, like an Armiger or Knight Errant?
100%. I think this is very much due
I think a new necron monolith would be a very good video as it would combine a few of your techniques.
And its a model thats easy to get basic silver...but to get it to that next level such as this video is a difficult leap for a lot of us
You can also fill those imperfections with putty, liquid green stuff but I think battle damage is the way to go - too much homogeneity looks unnatural. Regarding brushes, I should get some AO but man, I can't justify that sort of expenditure as a fiscally challenged bad painter.
Great tutorial, Uncle Nightshift would approve.
Dude, that's high-praise, I think we'd all like to study under Uncle Nightshift's experienced eye!
Regarding the brushes we cover some essential longevity tips in this tutorial, but are planning a specific maintenance one soon, I'd suggest grabbing a single brush (Medium +/Large/Large+) and seeing how it goes for you.
Load carefully (just the tip) and you'd be very surprised how long they last, some of mine are 3 years old (very short by now, but not 'dead')
@@ArtisOpus Ok, you talked me into it....smooth-tongued devil :)
Everytime I enjoy These Videos I'm stuck thinking "man, why do I Paint Iron Warriors Where this stuff probably doesn't work"
Time for some allies? :D
Amazing work. But from where I'm watching your mix of Aldorf blue and Ulthuan grey looks just like blue horror 😅
Perhaps we just landed on how to make our own edge-paints! We did try to keep things coherent (cool) across the mini here, so I'll take that as a compliment :D
@@ArtisOpus oh definitely take it as a complement, and the camera will make colours look slightly different to being up close.
1 do the friggin Eidolon. It's the quintessential artis opus model if there ever was one.
2 you've proved how awesome dry brushing can be. Start showing us mixing techniques. You could do more extreme stippling/dry brushing and then glaze or airbrush.
None of us use 1 technique. Mix them up or risk losing relevance.
We are due a hyper-textured organic mini, after all of these armour panels...
You're spot on there, there's a particular Airbrush release that's pausing me on this, I hope it's not too long before doing so. Combining is power :)
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😅bet you cant dry brush pearlesent paints, and get the colour change. 😂
Oh you evil man 😅😅
@@ArtisOpus You did ask 😂🤣 Im an armour/ scifi modeller, and what you do is magic.
stick the tape on your hand and not on your clothes ( less fluff or something else sticks on the tape.)