Give this video a like and consider subscribing if painting trim frustrates you! Did you like the video? Should we cover some more chaos next? (horns, claws? 🖌🖌Buy the brushes used in this video (Series S Size 2, 00) here🖌🖌: store.artis-opus.com/ Don't forget to check the BRAND NEW Dan Morris Tattoo collection :)
Every video I watch you are supremely confident anyone can recreate the amazing results using the techniques you are about to show. Every time I think to myself: "Eff off! Its not going to be that simple!" It's always that simple. I think this is due to the clarity in the way you convey your techniques and, more importantly, the thinking behind the technique. I see a lot from other painters, but I think I learn the most from this channel.
Thanks so much man, this one works, and if you follow the steps you will absolutely surprise yourself with the quality of the result, just don't rush any of the last ones, and use a good brush without too much paint for the final highlights! Enjoy :)
I've been saying this for what seems like the last 8 years on TH-cam but use a tinge of purple when shading gold. Magos Purple contrast paint is my go-to. You can mix it with sepia if you want but I think it looks just fine on its own. It makes the gold look more gold by using the color wheel to pump up the contrast between shadow and light. Purple being on the opposite end of the color spectrum from yellow (which, gold is just metallic yellow in a sense) actually makes the Purple shadows seem way deeper and richer than using a brown.
I've started a squad of CSM havocs (the most trim I think I've ever seen on a troop) and am trying this out - it's working amazingly and my guys look like sharpened antiques.
You make some of the best videos for the hobby. You don't just tell us what to do or how to do it but you explain why you're doing something, and that's so important. You often show us an easier way and a more high quality way of approaching a paint scheme. Giving us options and even showing us mistakes so we can learn along with you. Your content really is on the higher end of any other miniature painting channel. Great content, keep up the awesome work!
It's been a long while since I've did a brown basecoat before I painted gold over it. This was before GW introduced their new Citadel paints range back in 2012 and I followed their triage system when I painted gold. The Chaos Heldrake gold colour looks good.
@@ArtisOpus Yeah, they used to have something simular on White Dwarf. Even with the metallic paints as a basecoat, you would add a non-metallic darker paints to start of before layering in details. I've decided to try this on tank tracks to build up the weathering starting with the dark brown and do a bit of drybrushing with Leadbelcher.
Tzeentch is one of my favourite armies but I've always been fearful of collecting them very much due to the trim. Doing it in reverse is such a simple idea but I never even considered it! That's amazing!
I started adding one drop of Daler Rowney white pearl acrylic ink to my Retributor Armour (one drop of the ink to roughly three drops of R.A) and I've found it makes the gold a bit more interesting compared to R.A alone as it adds a bit of variance to the tone. I recommend trying it. Great video as usual. Thanks for all the educational content, Byron.
I’ve been painting gold using a 2:1 ratio of retributor armor and stormhost silver for trim (black legion). I just personally like it is all. I’m relatively new to the hobby and haven’t done much shading over that color yet, really excited to try it out though.
Brilliantly explained and demonstrated vid for painting chaos trim fast, which when painting units has to be one of the worst most soul destroying processes in hobbying. Really looks good and doesn't need to be GW products in dreadful little goblin pots at all, most of the similar transparent paints will do the same or even better artist inks diluted in good medium. Experiment with a touch of flow improver to get it to break around detail even more easily. I use golden hi flows because the extreme glossiness really helps metallics and tho retributor has it's happy fans, vallejo metal colours which can be colour adjusted to any metal colour or shade with inks because the fleck is just very fine aluminium Great vid - as always m8
Cheers buddy! Absolutely, we're trying very hard to teach methods, not recipes these days, so people should be able to take this and apply it with whatever they like, there's so much choice these days!
I'm coming to love the efficiency of your workflow. Some great results with techniques that are relatively simple and achievable. You feel like you need to be an advanced or expert painter to approach them 👍
About halfway through a Daemons army and wish I knew about brown base before gold before, makes a lot of sense. Some of my earlier attempts at bronze/gold trim were rougher than they needed to be 😅Earned a sub from me, this was really helpful
Now you know! The wash info can be applied a little retrospectively, even on old minis - if you're looking to update/add to existing ones. Thanks buddy :)
This might be too minor for an entire video, but I would like some tips on using existing washes, in this case from Pro Acryll, and altering them to use as substitutes for Agrax, Sepia, etc. in these. I have a feeling it is just adding in some brown and wash medium, but getting comfortable with making custom mixes seems like a great thing to be comfortable doing. Love the videos!
I like the way you used the diagram to explain the colour application. My issue is once I get the gold sorted, is getting the nice panels and the edges up to the gold done evenly. I have somewhat delusionally been accumulating Chaos troops for a future project and the panel and gold trim 'interface' is really daunting.
not bad technique, heres a tip to try. undertone the metalic with a brown (for gold), grey blue (for silver), red (for copper) green (for bronze and oxidized copper) and then drybrush/edge highlight with white before applying the metallic. easy good metailcics require understanding under tone painting - and you can get amazing results with this one simple trick ;) This knowlededge will also imporve your yellow and other colours that dont go down well. also - DO use a different brush for inks/washes to your metalic brush because other wise small ammounts of mica end up in your washes and you get glitter make up on your guardsmen!
This is a great guide for sure, though it must be noted that the taller, older washes are formulated very differently, have a different finish and pigment concentration (although the same colour). They made painting metals so effortless...
True, although it works just as well with the new ones, it's the steps and method that's important. Worth noting you can always tint your washes in the dirtection of the colour you want, too, strengthen them with paint, etc - counters some of the new ones formulas
I like staining with washes. It's a dirty way of getting some interest on an un-extured surface (even the chaos trim is largely bare, even if it has its dimples and rivets). It's also a lot easier than layering up light and shadow on space marine surfaces.
Honestly don't worry! Trim first, get a solid flat blue - watch betwee nthe blue and the trim, and that might be enough! Check the paint coach for a nice video on if you want to add highlights, he just painted the model this piece is from :)
You can also use something flat and hard like a toothpick to apply paint. Its how I paint eyebrows. Dip the toothpick in the paint like a brush, wipe off the excess and paint.
How on earth did you know I was planning last night on giving my stormcast eternals a black armour with gold trim colour scheme? This perfect timing, thank you so much!
Oh yes, please do horns next! If not, 'unhealthy' skin tones for something like cultists would be great as well :) More chaos is a good help at the moment.
AK Interactive have an excellent starting paint for this: Vampiric Flesh. They do an entire set which is a set of six paints that are ideal for unhealthy skin. It is called Night Creatures flesh tones. Well worth a look, I use them a lot. The off white tone in the set is excellent, it never goes chalky.
You can also just spray acrylic gold, then come over that with enamel black, then wipe away the excess black from the raised surfaces with enamel thinner/mineral spirits, which won't effect the acrylic paint.
Does it work for this type of active shading? I love that method for weathering and ageing, but unless it's a hyper-textured surface I've not managed to use it for this type of effect. You could use it for the first stage perhaps. that's an interesting thought.
@@ArtisOpus It really only works easily with the raised surfaces, and even then it's only the first 2-3 steps as you say (counting the undercoat). Afterwards I'll just rub it down with some Tamiya weathering powders of various shades, both wet and dry if I'm really getting into it, then maybe another wash. Main point is getting all the tedious gold done in one quick and easy spray. Matching the enamel black to other black legion that didn't get the same treatment is my biggest issue with it.
I know you didn’t you a citadel paint for the dark wash at the end to cover where the gold went slightly on the blue but what would a citadel version be? I recently painted some tomb king shields and they need a little bit of ‘hiding’ 😂 Amazing video as always, thank you
Excellent video and thanks so much for it. Always very educationnal and inspiring. Quick question though. When you give the recipes for different factions, are they the colour for the spikes and trim or armour? The impression I get is that you're saying the spikes and trim are those colours instead of golds.
@bebe3mlo I started painting my rubrics with retributor armour spray over the model. But that method doesn't really work for me anymore. You do get a cool blue marble effect if you use a gloss white over the gold and then ahklean green contrast over that. I would like to learn volumetrics and how to do a good zenithil.
@trekbrooker2692 my entire Thousand Sons army (30k pre heresy and 40k) is sitting unpainted because I didn't want to deal with the gold trim. As is my Roboute Guilliman. The 30k Thousand Sons will be much quicker, but the 40k version hurts my hands just contemplating painting it 😂
I can't believe that I never considered dabbing washes to do the gap between the pauldron and the trim and around molded iconography. I play 30k Fists and 40k Templars and have been struggling for years to figure out the best way to paint that space, because there really isn't an alternative to black lining when you have that kind of contrast. Seeing as my current and best methodology is using an almost undiluted black ink, a 00 brush, and infinite patience, I think I'll be giving this a shot soon.
Bummer my biggest issue with painting trim was skipped over. I have a problem making the transitions from the gold trim and the black armor on my chaos knights and such look clean crisp and straight like yours shows. Like, where the trim starts to be raised off of the armor, I sometimes get too close with the black. Or I'll try to fix it with adding the gold back but then its still not a nice crisp line. Seems like the only way the pros can do this is by masking.
It's all about dropping a shade/wash in and hiding that wobbly transition dude :). Just hide it in the deepest bit of the wash and no one will ever see! We actually do it a little on the shoulder pad in this one
@@ArtisOpus the type of paint in the markers is quite thin and will run a bit. Going over the upper edge will typically let it run down enough to cover the inner edge bit. If that doesnt work I'll just run the tip along the inner edge to get it. I usually don't care too much if it runs onto the surface of the armor panels since this is always the first part that I do after the base coating so covering up and stray gold is pretty easy to do
Thanks for another great video! I need to do some gold trim at some point so this is really useful. The only wash I have at the moment is agrax, would that work for the first step if i thinned it down?
Yeah buddy, you can treat it at 3 different dilutions like steps 1, 2, and 3 - you should be fine! You'll just miss a little of the warmth of the reikland, it'll look great, just different
@ArtisOpus I gave this a go on a space marine chest piece, pretty happy with the result. Starting with a brown base layer definitely makes a difference too!
What's your oppinion on the detailcreep we see with GW minis? I was very pleasently surprised by the new Abraxia mini since she hasn't 20 talsimans, pouces, ornaments and so on. Just the typical Chaos trim. But when I look at the Chaos Space Marine minis I lose all enthusiasm to paint because every dude is COVERED in details. In my oppinion, less is sometimes more and I wish the designers would make the minis less covered in bling and tiny bits...
My brother 😂❤️. I hate it. I too was pleasantly surprised (Ionus is similar, and fantastic, nice build also). I have no idea why core units now frequently have 10-20 pieces, and are impossible to paint fast, I don't see how it's encouraging new players to start, never mind build up to 200 points, which surely is the goal. It's not like minis weren't outstanding in the Island of Blood/ Assault on black reach era, less is way way more. I've got a few theories about why it's happening, I do wonder if too much time looking at computer game art is part of it, my minis do not need to look like they raided grandma's fancy dress box before battle! By the way - did you spot the error on the basing detail on abraxia? underside of the arch bit at the front
@@ArtisOpus A kindred soul! I have no idea why there aren't more youtubers talking about the overdesign of GW miniatures. It not just GW though, I see it a TON in 3D sculpts. Look up Archvillain Minis. Christ on a pogostick, my eyes can't even comprehend what they see. What I hate most is that the detailcreep is now so prevalent that even basic troops or horde-type units that you need a lot of take FOREVER to paint! Seriously, look at the new Darkoath minis. It would have been more than enough to just leave them as the bare chested Conan-eqsue barbarians they were obviously meant to be. But no! Every mook needs another thingy on his or her belt, another talisman, extra swords and so on. I've played a bit of Old World now and you know what I love? My 80 Nightgoblins. They consist of a cloak, a face and a weapon. And yet they look amazing in a big blob. Please GW, just bring back simple!
Damn.. like one of the best videos. Again, gotta just love your videos. But question, you have decent big model there, how does this fit with smaller guys gold trims? Like world eater berzerker or terminator? Those guys lines just are pain to paint for me 😅 But just keep these videos coming man, i ofter share these with my friends. Because your material is best painting teachers in youtube so far. From drybrushing to slapchop and now for golden lines 🫡🙂
Cheers buddy :) Good question - it doesn't really get much harder, you use a smaller brush, and still let the model do the work, just be carefully not to do big blobs and you'll be fine!
Would it be possible to do a NIghtlords tutorial? As a new painter I'm having trouble deciding if i should paint these over black primer as seen on a lot of other videos or use the slapchop method.
Would it save a step to base the model in gold? I am looking at a pile of unpainted Word Bearers, was thinking of basing the models silver and picking out the armor. Thanks in advance!
I don't understand this question sorry. In the tutorial the shoulderpad is done the 'not messy' way to show how that's done when it isn't convenient to be messy.
1:43 with the brown, you put a bunch down on the table and then it cuts to you applying it, there's a couple of colors you did this with, do you thin it with water or just thin it down on the table a bunch?
Just thin it on the table :), my 'texture palette' is primed chaos black - it keeps my paint workable for quite a long time, I put it on there neat, then pull it to the side and add water (like a traditional artist's palette): This is the one I use (and designed), I make a lot of use of the 'flat' traditional palette space we added round the border when it was redesigned: store.artis-opus.com/products/xl-texture-pallet-graffiti-preorder Any questions let me know in another comment, replies get lost in YT!
I've noticed that you quite often take paint from a pot with a brush that already has another paint on it. I'd always assumed that doing so would ruin the paint pots and so religiously clean and dry my brush when moving onto another colour. Do you find that you don't get too much contamination using your technique, or is it just for expediency when making a video?
Original title and thumb were actually based on how frustrating it can be, maybe we were wrong to change! We're doing our bit for the community here, it's a joy this way.
Because they're the hand made originals, not copies :). We ship worldwide with very reasonable shipping: store.artis-opus.com/collections/series-d-drybrushing We also have retailers globally, depending where you live
Still too much effort for a guy like me, here is my absolute minimum work method. Spray retributer gold undercoat , paint panels medium/dark grey . Nuln oil the lot . Re-gold the tips/edges (if you can be bothered)
I can help you speed that up to minimise the minimum-work! - Spray gold - Drybrush gold + silver - Wash the lot (could be nuln, or a reikland mix) - *note* this step will smooth out drybrushing and make stuff look fancy, the reikland mix would look great over the silvery drybrushing, staining it goldy) - *THEN* paint the panels No control needed until step 4, and 1-3 are all suuper quick (and big brush friendly) What do you think? I have painted a lot of armies like this
@@ArtisOpus great tutorial btw. i probably won't be able to use the advice of starting messy as i tend to overbrush my armour panels (which i find does a decent, and very quick job of creating colour gradients… at least on chaos minis where panels tend to be smaller and broken up with plenty of trim), but the effect you demonstrated from layering up with washes/shades was incredible! definitely going to try that on my next batch of berzerkers
It's not a worry dude, use a good brush, don't overload it, go very nearly to the edge, then use the wash step from the shoulder pad to hide and sins :D
You are confusing order with good. The empire and space Marines in 40k are not good, they represent order hence why the main opponent is chaos, not evil.
Give this video a like and consider subscribing if painting trim frustrates you!
Did you like the video? Should we cover some more chaos next? (horns, claws?
🖌🖌Buy the brushes used in this video (Series S Size 2, 00) here🖌🖌: store.artis-opus.com/
Don't forget to check the BRAND NEW Dan Morris Tattoo collection :)
Every video I watch you are supremely confident anyone can recreate the amazing results using the techniques you are about to show. Every time I think to myself: "Eff off! Its not going to be that simple!" It's always that simple. I think this is due to the clarity in the way you convey your techniques and, more importantly, the thinking behind the technique. I see a lot from other painters, but I think I learn the most from this channel.
Man, what a wonderful comment! Honestly 'oh that's it' is the biggest compliment a teacher can receive.
Thanks hugely
I second that, you describe his content perfectly
I fully agree.
You make painting fun , not complicated or condescending…just straightforward demo of perfection . Thanks Byron
Fav comment, so king of you to say my dude, you're welcome!
Finally, something I can duplicate. Thank you, I spent hours watching other channels, trying to convince me that advanced techniques were easy.
Thanks so much man, this one works, and if you follow the steps you will absolutely surprise yourself with the quality of the result, just don't rush any of the last ones, and use a good brush without too much paint for the final highlights! Enjoy :)
Almost prophetic, I was JUST wondering if I could be doing gold trim better, and this pops up in my feed!
Yeah boyy! Rather be lucky than good any day (although hopefully we were also good)
I've been saying this for what seems like the last 8 years on TH-cam but use a tinge of purple when shading gold. Magos Purple contrast paint is my go-to.
You can mix it with sepia if you want but I think it looks just fine on its own. It makes the gold look more gold by using the color wheel to pump up the contrast between shadow and light. Purple being on the opposite end of the color spectrum from yellow (which, gold is just metallic yellow in a sense) actually makes the Purple shadows seem way deeper and richer than using a brown.
Gold takes so many colours well, especially purple and crimson, and green!
Basically all but blue, which turns it silver :)
I've started a squad of CSM havocs (the most trim I think I've ever seen on a troop) and am trying this out - it's working amazingly and my guys look like sharpened antiques.
Dude, thanks so good to hear - if you've got social media please do tag us, we love seeing the tutorials put to use!
Oh this has so many uses. Not strictly used on metal trims. Rope,belts,visors. I'm definitely going to be using these tips.
Absolutely! You can let me know how it goes on the inevitable 200 minis you put it to the test on 😊
@@ArtisOpus I swear fallout minis have straps on each model for legal reasons.
@@darrenj3720 😅
Another wonderful video which brings it to the point with as much clarity as one can get. Thank you!
You make some of the best videos for the hobby. You don't just tell us what to do or how to do it but you explain why you're doing something, and that's so important. You often show us an easier way and a more high quality way of approaching a paint scheme. Giving us options and even showing us mistakes so we can learn along with you. Your content really is on the higher end of any other miniature painting channel. Great content, keep up the awesome work!
It's been a long while since I've did a brown basecoat before I painted gold over it. This was before GW introduced their new Citadel paints range back in 2012 and I followed their triage system when I painted gold.
The Chaos Heldrake gold colour looks good.
I think it's a real shame that this information isn't put out by GW as much these days, it's so useful to know!
@@ArtisOpus Yeah, they used to have something simular on White Dwarf. Even with the metallic paints as a basecoat, you would add a non-metallic darker paints to start of before layering in details.
I've decided to try this on tank tracks to build up the weathering starting with the dark brown and do a bit of drybrushing with Leadbelcher.
I’ve been painting chaos gold trim for years. This is a game changer! I’ll be giving this ago soon. Thank you 👏👏
You'll surprise yourself, it works like a charm!
Artis Opus does it again! Your a genius Opus!
Thanks buddy, happy to help!
Tzeentch is one of my favourite armies but I've always been fearful of collecting them very much due to the trim.
Doing it in reverse is such a simple idea but I never even considered it! That's amazing!
I started adding one drop of Daler Rowney white pearl acrylic ink to my Retributor Armour (one drop of the ink to roughly three drops of R.A) and I've found it makes the gold a bit more interesting compared to R.A alone as it adds a bit of variance to the tone. I recommend trying it.
Great video as usual. Thanks for all the educational content, Byron.
Oh wow, this is very interesting! Cheers dude.
Anyone else tried similar?
I’ve been painting gold using a 2:1 ratio of retributor armor and stormhost silver for trim (black legion). I just personally like it is all. I’m relatively new to the hobby and haven’t done much shading over that color yet, really excited to try it out though.
Brilliantly explained and demonstrated vid for painting chaos trim fast, which when painting units has to be one of the worst most soul destroying processes in hobbying.
Really looks good and doesn't need to be GW products in dreadful little goblin pots at all, most of the similar transparent paints will do the same or even better artist inks diluted in good medium. Experiment with a touch of flow improver to get it to break around detail even more easily.
I use golden hi flows because the extreme glossiness really helps metallics and tho retributor has it's happy fans, vallejo metal colours which can be colour adjusted to any metal colour or shade with inks because the fleck is just very fine aluminium
Great vid - as always m8
Cheers buddy!
Absolutely, we're trying very hard to teach methods, not recipes these days, so people should be able to take this and apply it with whatever they like, there's so much choice these days!
While drybrushing itself is not a new tonme these specific techniques are. They all make sense and I'm excited to try them out as soon as possible!
Let's goo! Enjoy putting them to use :)
This Tutorial is golden ! Great work on a subject that really is easier than most think.
Cheers buddy! 🤘
Right as I'm starting a Thousand Sons army.. perfect timing!
Prepare to surprise yourself :)
Artis Opus, Subscribed because your content is fantastic!
I'm coming to love the efficiency of your workflow. Some great results with techniques that are relatively simple and achievable. You feel like you need to be an advanced or expert painter to approach them 👍
I'm enjoyoing the breakdowns and the pop ups during, I love the new set up!
Thanks man, hopefully they're helping the teaching :)
@ArtisOpus oh definitely, I got alot of trim for stormcast todo, and I sent it to 2 buddy's who are getting into the hobby, so should help out alot
Oh my god dabbing on shade looks game changing.
Right? It's a real life-changer for them
I wish you would describe what you're doing on screen more for those of us listening while driving etc. Great video btw 😊
This is something I often think when in a similar position, keep suggesting it and I will continue to try and be a bit more descriptive!
This video come in right time.. Just bought box of Dread Talons and was complaining about the gold trims on CSM models.
It's fate!
About halfway through a Daemons army and wish I knew about brown base before gold before, makes a lot of sense. Some of my earlier attempts at bronze/gold trim were rougher than they needed to be 😅Earned a sub from me, this was really helpful
Now you know! The wash info can be applied a little retrospectively, even on old minis - if you're looking to update/add to existing ones.
Thanks buddy :)
This might be too minor for an entire video, but I would like some tips on using existing washes, in this case from Pro Acryll, and altering them to use as substitutes for Agrax, Sepia, etc. in these. I have a feeling it is just adding in some brown and wash medium, but getting comfortable with making custom mixes seems like a great thing to be comfortable doing. Love the videos!
Stunning video and at the right time as I'm doing chaos marines black legion at the moment. Thanks heaps.
Serendipity my man! Wnjoy :)
been trying for so long to do NMM but pffft ill just do this from now on instead due to how amazing it turns out! thanks mate!
You can take a load of NMM theory and use it to govern where you put your washes, NMM TMM can look amazing!
Thank so much for this brilliant approach. Definitely gonna apply a few of the techniques you've shown. Wonderfully explained!
These are fantastic hints/tips. 👏👌😎. Great result on both examples 😍
Thanks, buddy!
I like the way you used the diagram to explain the colour application. My issue is once I get the gold sorted, is getting the nice panels and the edges up to the gold done evenly. I have somewhat delusionally been accumulating Chaos troops for a future project and the panel and gold trim 'interface' is really daunting.
Thanks man, and just use our wash trick from the end of the video, we have you sorted! It hides a multitude of sins, so don't be put off!
Love this video, I've just bought some light brown and some sephia
Amazing, enjoy!
Just in time for my chaos army!! Thank you for the video!!
Our pleasure :)
Nice! I've got the lion to trim... The chaos version will be perfect!
Yeah buddy!
Perfect!!! Legionaries Kill Team doesn't feel so daunting now!
That's what we like to hear! Put it to practise, I guarantee you're going to surprise yourself :)
Everybody got their hands on Abraxia and Im still waiting on mine! Also great tutorial vid, will be getting pointers from this one
She's very cool (although has a tiny face! :D), sure the wait will be worth it. Cheers buddy
Excellent!!!!!!. This is the video i was waiting, thank yoou very much.
You're very welcome :). We do a variation of it in tomorrow's video if you want some follow-up!
I wish this came out a week ago lol!
Sorry! Your gold was great though :D
not bad technique, heres a tip to try.
undertone the metalic with a brown (for gold), grey blue (for silver), red (for copper) green (for bronze and oxidized copper) and then drybrush/edge highlight with white before applying the metallic.
easy good metailcics require understanding under tone painting - and you can get amazing results with this one simple trick ;)
This knowlededge will also imporve your yellow and other colours that dont go down well.
also - DO use a different brush for inks/washes to your metalic brush because other wise small ammounts of mica end up in your washes and you get glitter make up on your guardsmen!
This is a great guide for sure, though it must be noted that the taller, older washes are formulated very differently, have a different finish and pigment concentration (although the same colour).
They made painting metals so effortless...
True, although it works just as well with the new ones, it's the steps and method that's important.
Worth noting you can always tint your washes in the dirtection of the colour you want, too, strengthen them with paint, etc - counters some of the new ones formulas
@@ArtisOpus Quite. Banged out a couple Night Lords with this in the background :D
Using brown underneath the gold was a game-changer for me.
I like to undercoat with red. Works well too.
Innteresting. I have used red-brown a lot, so I can see that working
I like staining with washes. It's a dirty way of getting some interest on an un-extured surface (even the chaos trim is largely bare, even if it has its dimples and rivets). It's also a lot easier than layering up light and shadow on space marine surfaces.
Oh thank god this is what I’ve needed for years. I still struggle.
We got you, go forth with reckless Abaddon 😂
Awesome vid (looking nervously at Guilleman) - doing the trim first is deffo a mindset shift
Honestly don't worry! Trim first, get a solid flat blue - watch betwee nthe blue and the trim, and that might be enough! Check the paint coach for a nice video on if you want to add highlights, he just painted the model this piece is from :)
You can also use something flat and hard like a toothpick to apply paint. Its how I paint eyebrows. Dip the toothpick in the paint like a brush, wipe off the excess and paint.
Like for dotting rivets?
How on earth did you know I was planning last night on giving my stormcast eternals a black armour with gold trim colour scheme? This perfect timing, thank you so much!
**shifty eyes**
You're welcome!
Oh yes, please do horns next! If not, 'unhealthy' skin tones for something like cultists would be great as well :) More chaos is a good help at the moment.
AK Interactive have an excellent starting paint for this: Vampiric Flesh. They do an entire set which is a set of six paints that are ideal for unhealthy skin. It is called Night Creatures flesh tones. Well worth a look, I use them a lot. The off white tone in the set is excellent, it never goes chalky.
Not a bad call dude, notice that the recent chaos nmodels have tiny heads? 😂washing might be the only option
Noted :)
You can also just spray acrylic gold, then come over that with enamel black, then wipe away the excess black from the raised surfaces with enamel thinner/mineral spirits, which won't effect the acrylic paint.
Does it work for this type of active shading? I love that method for weathering and ageing, but unless it's a hyper-textured surface I've not managed to use it for this type of effect.
You could use it for the first stage perhaps. that's an interesting thought.
@@ArtisOpus It really only works easily with the raised surfaces, and even then it's only the first 2-3 steps as you say (counting the undercoat). Afterwards I'll just rub it down with some Tamiya weathering powders of various shades, both wet and dry if I'm really getting into it, then maybe another wash. Main point is getting all the tedious gold done in one quick and easy spray. Matching the enamel black to other black legion that didn't get the same treatment is my biggest issue with it.
Gold metallic done with gold sharpie marker is the life hack everyone needs to know
You're not the first person to say this, I need to find the best option and give it a go, always up for speeding up the first steps!
Wonderful video!!! This is very helpful...
Thanks buddy, may your future gold trim be shiny!
It's a masterpiece ✨✨
absolutely MAGIC
🪄🪄🪄!
ohhh yeeaaa dib those spikes
Satisfying isn't it!
I know you didn’t you a citadel paint for the dark wash at the end to cover where the gold went slightly on the blue but what would a citadel version be?
I recently painted some tomb king shields and they need a little bit of ‘hiding’ 😂
Amazing video as always, thank you
Nuln oil buddy, but you could always mix a little black paint in with any wash (e.g. a brown one like agrax if your shields were brown)
You got a sub from me! Awesome tutorial.
so you dib it in the recesses? is that where you dibbed? 🤣
good instructional vid. keep up the great content!
Absolutely 😂. Thanks buddy!
Excellent video and thanks so much for it. Always very educationnal and inspiring. Quick question though. When you give the recipes for different factions, are they the colour for the spikes and trim or armour? The impression I get is that you're saying the spikes and trim are those colours instead of golds.
I really hope this will help save time when painting rubric marines armour 🤞.
My man, we have got you!
rather than painting the trim, just base coat with wanted trim color and paint the armor part, quick and easy way to paint TS
@ArtisOpus thank you, bless your hearts 🥲.
I'm sure everyone who knows the frustration of rubric armour will appreciate this.
@bebe3mlo I started painting my rubrics with retributor armour spray over the model. But that method doesn't really work for me anymore.
You do get a cool blue marble effect if you use a gloss white over the gold and then ahklean green contrast over that.
I would like to learn volumetrics and how to do a good zenithil.
@trekbrooker2692 my entire Thousand Sons army (30k pre heresy and 40k) is sitting unpainted because I didn't want to deal with the gold trim. As is my Roboute Guilliman. The 30k Thousand Sons will be much quicker, but the 40k version hurts my hands just contemplating painting it 😂
I can't believe that I never considered dabbing washes to do the gap between the pauldron and the trim and around molded iconography. I play 30k Fists and 40k Templars and have been struggling for years to figure out the best way to paint that space, because there really isn't an alternative to black lining when you have that kind of contrast. Seeing as my current and best methodology is using an almost undiluted black ink, a 00 brush, and infinite patience, I think I'll be giving this a shot soon.
My dude, welcome to the future, you're going to love it! :D
Bummer my biggest issue with painting trim was skipped over. I have a problem making the transitions from the gold trim and the black armor on my chaos knights and such look clean crisp and straight like yours shows.
Like, where the trim starts to be raised off of the armor, I sometimes get too close with the black. Or I'll try to fix it with adding the gold back but then its still not a nice crisp line.
Seems like the only way the pros can do this is by masking.
It's all about dropping a shade/wash in and hiding that wobbly transition dude :). Just hide it in the deepest bit of the wash and no one will ever see! We actually do it a little on the shoulder pad in this one
@@ArtisOpus ok I’ll try that. Thanks
Thank you so much for this!
Our pleasure :)
Great stuff, thanks.
For the last step in the pauldron (correcting the gold overspill), would something like Black Templar work?
It could, but won't be quite as forgiving (runs more, stronger colour), so just use a small brush, don't overload, and be careful :)
@@ArtisOpus awesome, thanks 🙏👍
Gundam gold marker
wash with thinned earth shade or the separated out retributor armor
thats my go to and its super quick
This sounds very cool! What do you do about the edges of the trim?
@@ArtisOpus the type of paint in the markers is quite thin and will run a bit. Going over the upper edge will typically let it run down enough to cover the inner edge bit. If that doesnt work I'll just run the tip along the inner edge to get it. I usually don't care too much if it runs onto the surface of the armor panels since this is always the first part that I do after the base coating so covering up and stray gold is pretty easy to do
Orange armor tutorial anytime soon?
Preferably drybrushing/stippling orange armor would be nice
Maybe some new stormcast? Just need to think of a way to get people to click it :D
@@ArtisOpus I guess we'll see
Thanks for another great video! I need to do some gold trim at some point so this is really useful. The only wash I have at the moment is agrax, would that work for the first step if i thinned it down?
Yeah buddy, you can treat it at 3 different dilutions like steps 1, 2, and 3 - you should be fine! You'll just miss a little of the warmth of the reikland, it'll look great, just different
@ArtisOpus I gave this a go on a space marine chest piece, pretty happy with the result. Starting with a brown base layer definitely makes a difference too!
What's your oppinion on the detailcreep we see with GW minis? I was very pleasently surprised by the new Abraxia mini since she hasn't 20 talsimans, pouces, ornaments and so on. Just the typical Chaos trim. But when I look at the Chaos Space Marine minis I lose all enthusiasm to paint because every dude is COVERED in details. In my oppinion, less is sometimes more and I wish the designers would make the minis less covered in bling and tiny bits...
My brother 😂❤️.
I hate it.
I too was pleasantly surprised (Ionus is similar, and fantastic, nice build also).
I have no idea why core units now frequently have 10-20 pieces, and are impossible to paint fast, I don't see how it's encouraging new players to start, never mind build up to 200 points, which surely is the goal. It's not like minis weren't outstanding in the Island of Blood/ Assault on black reach era, less is way way more.
I've got a few theories about why it's happening, I do wonder if too much time looking at computer game art is part of it, my minis do not need to look like they raided grandma's fancy dress box before battle!
By the way - did you spot the error on the basing detail on abraxia? underside of the arch bit at the front
@@ArtisOpus A kindred soul! I have no idea why there aren't more youtubers talking about the overdesign of GW miniatures. It not just GW though, I see it a TON in 3D sculpts. Look up Archvillain Minis. Christ on a pogostick, my eyes can't even comprehend what they see.
What I hate most is that the detailcreep is now so prevalent that even basic troops or horde-type units that you need a lot of take FOREVER to paint! Seriously, look at the new Darkoath minis. It would have been more than enough to just leave them as the bare chested Conan-eqsue barbarians they were obviously meant to be. But no! Every mook needs another thingy on his or her belt, another talisman, extra swords and so on.
I've played a bit of Old World now and you know what I love? My 80 Nightgoblins. They consist of a cloak, a face and a weapon. And yet they look amazing in a big blob.
Please GW, just bring back simple!
Damn.. like one of the best videos. Again, gotta just love your videos.
But question, you have decent big model there, how does this fit with smaller guys gold trims? Like world eater berzerker or terminator? Those guys lines just are pain to paint for me 😅
But just keep these videos coming man, i ofter share these with my friends. Because your material is best painting teachers in youtube so far. From drybrushing to slapchop and now for golden lines 🫡🙂
Cheers buddy :)
Good question - it doesn't really get much harder, you use a smaller brush, and still let the model do the work, just be carefully not to do big blobs and you'll be fine!
Would it be possible to do a NIghtlords tutorial? As a new painter I'm having trouble deciding if i should paint these over black primer as seen on a lot of other videos or use the slapchop method.
What black did you use for the Chaos interior panel? It looks like a really nice matte black, which compliments the gold so well!
I am fairly sure it's AK 3rd gen acryllic, it's quite matte - so shows off the shiny metal nicely :)
Was looking for this comment, its a gorgeous black
Would it save a step to base the model in gold? I am looking at a pile of unpainted Word Bearers, was thinking of basing the models silver and picking out the armor. Thanks in advance!
You could absolutely do that!
thanks mate!
Would you again paint the whole shoulder pad gold making a mess then filling in the shoulder pad ?
I don't understand this question sorry. In the tutorial the shoulderpad is done the 'not messy' way to show how that's done when it isn't convenient to be messy.
1:43 with the brown, you put a bunch down on the table and then it cuts to you applying it, there's a couple of colors you did this with, do you thin it with water or just thin it down on the table a bunch?
Just thin it on the table :), my 'texture palette' is primed chaos black - it keeps my paint workable for quite a long time, I put it on there neat, then pull it to the side and add water (like a traditional artist's palette):
This is the one I use (and designed), I make a lot of use of the 'flat' traditional palette space we added round the border when it was redesigned: store.artis-opus.com/products/xl-texture-pallet-graffiti-preorder
Any questions let me know in another comment, replies get lost in YT!
thoughts on berserker bloodshade for the khorne wash?
Would look great, dilute carefully with medium or sepia and go carefully at first before you have gauged strength
I've noticed that you quite often take paint from a pot with a brush that already has another paint on it. I'd always assumed that doing so would ruin the paint pots and so religiously clean and dry my brush when moving onto another colour. Do you find that you don't get too much contamination using your technique, or is it just for expediency when making a video?
Cool 👍
Nice one and for once I don't have to put an order in to Element Games ;) ...... or maybe for some more Chaos Marines!
:D maybe once you've tried the method out, you might feel differently about all those spikes!
Am I crazy or is there no paint thinning here with water? or is that behind the scenes, I'm learning to paint and I end up thinning my paints so much
With the normal painting or the drybrushing? Let us know in another (separate) comment, replies get lost within YT!
Would this also work with oil washes?
yes/no - yes for one stage, but they might reawaken previous steps if layered on top of each other without sealing
You should have added "And Not killing yourself doing it"
Original title and thumb were actually based on how frustrating it can be, maybe we were wrong to change!
We're doing our bit for the community here, it's a joy this way.
@@ArtisOpus yeah, the youtube channel hes great, and it feels its for the community by people from the community
Why can’t I buy these brushes on Amazon?
Because they're the hand made originals, not copies :). We ship worldwide with very reasonable shipping:
store.artis-opus.com/collections/series-d-drybrushing
We also have retailers globally, depending where you live
"Reekland" xD
Talk about shade being thrown.
Still too much effort for a guy like me, here is my absolute minimum work method. Spray retributer gold undercoat , paint panels medium/dark grey . Nuln oil the lot . Re-gold the tips/edges (if you can be bothered)
I can help you speed that up to minimise the minimum-work!
- Spray gold
- Drybrush gold + silver
- Wash the lot (could be nuln, or a reikland mix) - *note* this step will smooth out drybrushing and make stuff look fancy, the reikland mix would look great over the silvery drybrushing, staining it goldy)
- *THEN* paint the panels
No control needed until step 4, and 1-3 are all suuper quick (and big brush friendly)
What do you think? I have painted a lot of armies like this
Just retributor gold and reikland flesh-shade
That doesn't have the same degree of contrast, unless you shrink and repeat as we covered in the theory, which is an option!
TOUCH MY RIVETS
Any day buddy
@@ArtisOpus great tutorial btw. i probably won't be able to use the advice of starting messy as i tend to overbrush my armour panels (which i find does a decent, and very quick job of creating colour gradients… at least on chaos minis where panels tend to be smaller and broken up with plenty of trim), but the effect you demonstrated from layering up with washes/shades was incredible! definitely going to try that on my next batch of berzerkers
The hard part is not slopping black over the gold that you already painted. You didn't show that bit 🙁
It's not a worry dude, use a good brush, don't overload it, go very nearly to the edge, then use the wash step from the shoulder pad to hide and sins :D
You are confusing order with good. The empire and space Marines in 40k are not good, they represent order hence why the main opponent is chaos, not evil.
True! Good guy aesthetics then?
@@ArtisOpus it's just something that has always bothered me in 40k, one of these reasons I never got into the game
not pronouncing it "reek-land" 😭
(:
Damn you everytime i see those mini cases it makes me want them 😂.
They're damn purdy aren't they!