Nice looking cabinet. However, I have several suggestions. First, do not use zip ties. Second, you are putting equipment in the cabinet randomly, without taking care of U units. Distances between those square holes are there for a reason. Between each U unit, which consists of 3 square holes, there is narrow interspace. Between holes which are part of certain U unit, there is wider interspace. All pieces of equipment that you have installed has a height of 1U unit, and they have two holes on each side that will fit with top and bottom holes of U unit. If you will not install equipment exactly into U units you will have problems with screws that will not screw. This problem will be even more serious when you will be installing rack servers with rack rails that will not fit because of rails' bolts that will not overlap with rack holes. Later you will have to leave spaces just like in the video, to make things straight again.
Def. should use zip ties. If you use Velcro, some lazy asshole WILL undo it "just for a minute" and in a year, it'll look like a rats nest. Only the most outrageous asshole would cut off all those zip ties to add/remote a cable, though. Velcro is just too big a temptation for the lazy.
@@user-nh3gu1ge3d you underestimate the outrageous assholishness of people with access to the wiring closet, and their lack of a bag of zip ties. I charge people pretty good money for wire closet cleanups. I hope they have an employee that jacks it all up again - more than happy to come fix it again ... for a price ;)
@@enchantingendlers2105 in that case, you should probably leave a 1U space between rackmount devices, instead of 1/3U lol. I don't care how good his cable management is if he doesn't understand rack units.
Just as a suggestion: do not use zipties. They will likely damage the rubber coat of the cable. Use velcro or something comparable. This also makes it far easier to add/replace/remove cables from the bundle.
Zipties on copper - only being tightened down a REASONABLE amount - are just fine and cause no problem. They will not "likely" damage copper cabling as long as they aren't over-tightened. I WILL give you credit on the point that using velcro makes adding and even removing cable easier. There's that. Velcro is preferred these days but let's not get the facts twisted here, either.
@@cyrylthewolf The facts aren't twisted, because, in order to stay in place at the point you want them, zipties need to be tightened. If you prefer dangling zipties on any place but the place you want them, go for it. Sure, you can put only a necessary amount of force into it, but how many people do this? If your cable management is alright due to the fact, that you carefully put zipties everywhere, that's completely fine (thumps up in this case). But for inexperienced, velcro is just better, e.g. if they need to move the cable trees around.
@@alphaprot2518 - You said, "do not use zipties". That direction is not justified as zip ties - USED CORRECTLY - are perfectly fine for copper cabling. "zipties need to be tightened" As does velcro... I have no idea what you mean by "dangling zipties" as I don't have that problem. I trip the excess - as is part of the "using it correctly" deal. It's not rocket science. " If your cable management is alright due to the fact, that you carefully put zipties everywhere" Otherwise known as "managing cable". LOL Velcro IS preferable. But there is NOTHING wrong with zipties if used correctly. (Again... Not hard. Doesn't really take 'experience' either. It's a freakin' ziptie.) The point is that you're telling people "do not use zipties" without justification. Say that they're generally preferred - which seems to be accurate these days with so much more fiber hanging about in our data centers/data rooms, sure. But don't discourage it all together. It's still an applicable method.
I think the reason why he used longer patch cables because if you have high-speed internet, the cat6 and cat5e cable shorter than 3 ft often create interference and crosstalk. I have 300 Mbps download speeds. As soon as I plug a cat6 cable shorter than 3 feet, the speed drop to 100 Mbps.
Good job! 2 suggestions I could make. Use flush cutter instead of scissor to cut zip tye.. otherwise the small sharp plastic left can cut someone badly! Also you should install equipments in theirs respecting U, do not left single hole at top and space by 3 holes if needed. installing another equipment will be much easier!
Great vid!!! Some tips for efficiency during install & as well as over time for maintenance: 1) Velcro not cable ties (both inside and outside of the cabinet) 1.1) Adding extra cables will take forever unless you make a new bundle over time. 2) The cut-off ends of the zip-tie can be very sharp, and cut you, a co-worker or could damage new cabling installed. More reason to use Velcro. 3) Use a strain relief bar behind the patch panel. This allows an easy to access gap between each cable IDC. As you are currently showing, you will work over the cables & have zero room to easily access 1x cable. 4) Rather do not use a traditional patch panel & instead get a patch panel that takes RJ45 inline couplers. Then you just make a standard RJ45 termination VS a punch down. 5) In such a small rack, space is expensive. Rather use very short cables and only occupy 2U vs 4u. 6) Create the service look behind the vertical rails. If you put a device with more depth in there, you might damage the cables. 7) Install a premade RGB strip & leave it on the company colour(s).
Neat tool, I try to get 0.10m patch cables these days and go PP, Switch, PP and flood patch, I dont like cables down the back or sides of the switches as they more often than not vent their heat in those spaces.
@@LinwoodPowell The cabinet back can always be perforated! But yeah, conduit would be an alternative. I just think a nice cabinet with real neat wire management loses purpose when you have wires coming up from an ugly hole in the wall!
I think the rack would of been too low if he mounted it over the hole where the cables are coming out, but yeah that would be more appealing astetically
hey yesterday i have lots of confusion about patch pannel but after watching your video i am 100% clear what exactly patch pannel is i have subscribe to your channel also thanks a lot
Patch Port 1 ---TO---> Switch Port 1 Patch Port 2 ---TO---> Switch Port 2 Patch Port 3 ---TO---> Switch Port 3 . . . . Patch Port 22 ---TO---> Switch Port 22 Patch Port 23 ---TO---> Switch Port 23 Patch Port 24 ---TO---> Switch Port 24 where is the fault?
👍 I enjoyed watching, you do excellent work! Only thing I do different...I do not punch-down my cables, I install RJ45 plugs on the cabling and use a keystone bracket & pass-through jacks. Makes trouble shooting much easier...I use bigger cabinets as I install a rackmount UPS along with a rackmount surge protected power strip 😎
The second cable punched in a wrong way - you should put brown wire first then white and brown..., using velcro is better than ties..., if you want to use ties you need to cut it all, don't leave a small piece it works as a knife latter when you work inside the rack...
Great video. Cam someone help me with estimation? I want to as to how many rolls of cables, patch panels are required in a specific project? Any videos on these?
Great job man! but i guess if you want to 'teach' good practices just 2 tips.. 1.use hook and loop velcro, it is wider in general and wont pinch the cable, this wont attenuate the UTP signal. 2nd is buy a label printer, your approach might be easy on the eyes(that counts a lot), but could be a nightmare for other techs to figure out which one is which.
I like your video and your installation, but I would do it a bit other way: 1. USE VELCRO STRIPS INSTEAD OF ZIP TIES. I wrote this with Caps Lock on because you overtightened these ties, deforming and damaging the cables. I've seen way too many "it sometimes work and sometimes not" network troubles caused by this. Zip ties are awesome, but not when used like this. You'll also find out velcro (or similar) strips are reusable, so it's easier to keep it nice and clean over time with adding/replacing/removing cables and everything. I am well aware many people here wrote this already, please see their comments as well. 2. Install the cabinet so that the tube coming through the wall ends in the cabinet, not below it. This makes it cleaner (less dust in the cabinet) and nicer to look at. I also find it more comfortable to work with. Other people already mentioned this. 3. These patchcords are going wild in the back, possibly affecting the cooling of the switch. I usually route them in a conduit on the side, so they aren't getting in switch's airflow. 4. I heavily prefer modular patch panels with individual keystones. It is a bit more expensive, but I found it better in certified Cat6 and above installations. 5. Include a plan, legend or some other aid to know which cable is which. I usually put it on inside side of cabinet's door. I also always use racks with full metal doors, not glass ones. 6. Some color coding, maybe? If this only connects 24 computers or Wi-Fi APs together to some fiber or other uplink, having all the patchcords the same color is okay. If not, using for example green for LAN, blue for SAN and so is a good practice - don't forget to document this in the aforementioned plans/schematics on the front door. Somebody else already wrote this, and I add - if there is more than one cabinet in the building/campus, use the same color-code everywhere. 7. Ensure proper cooling of switches, router and/or other devices in the cabinet. There should be good airflow, unobstructed by wild cables (this reminds me, how did you store spare length of incoming cables?) or other stuff withing the cabinet. 8. Use air filters to make sure the cabinet isn't collecting all the dust in the room, even if it is a dedicated server room or something. TL;DR: You have done well. It isn't perfect, but I'd still recommend you to a relative - just please use velcro strips instead of zip ties, or at least don't tighten them this much.
Spot on on all counts. Personally I'd add that while this looks very organised, it's actually pretty difficult to work with and to trace cables. I prefer to forego the plastic cable management strips and instead mount the switch directly under the patch panel, then use 25 or 30cm patch leads straight into the switch. (Which is admittedly more difficult with a switch like the one in this video where all the ports are on the right-hand side). This works beautifully with 48-port switches and 24-port patch panels. Install a patch panel top, then use short patch leads to go to the 24 top ports on the switch. Then install a patch panel below and use short patch leads to the 24 bottom ports on the switch. This is neater, it makes it trivially easy to trace cables, it doesn't leave a big bundle of patch leads messily at the back, it takes up less vertical space (so you have room for a small UPS or other gear), and adding, tracing, or moving a patch lead doesn't require access behind the switch and panels so you don't rick knocking out other cables by accident.
I am surprised zip ties are so heavily frowned upon in the comments section, I am using them all the time and never had any issues. Last time I used A LOT of zipties (hundreds), I ran three POE IP cameras, about 50 meters each line, for 80% of the length ran together through attic and I ziptied the (3) cables together to nails along the way so they stay in place and won't get damaged when moving stuff in and out of the attic. What should I do instead?
@@Jirk4 The main problem is the way they were overtightened in this video. If they were left open a bit more to hold the bundle of cables together but not so tight to put pressure on the cables it would have been fine. The minor problem with zip ties is they can't be re-used like velcro ones, so if you add a couple more cables they either don't end up bundled in or you have to cut each one and use a new set of zip ties. (And if you choose to cut and the original was too tight, showing the scissors in there to cut the original makes the original tie even tighter).
@@Jirk4 I also use zip ties all the time and they are awesome, but some people tighten them too much, damaging the cables. Most people would just tighten them as much as they can as if they were testing their strength or something.
@@Jirk4 : never had any problem either, used almost billions of zipties over the years. And lately always certified the work with a Fluke CableAnalyzer, sometimes many years after initial installation; without any problem.
This approach won’t work on large installations, this method is mainly for small installations or home networks where the switch has the same amount of keystones available and order isn’t important When cabling large organisations only x switches may be available and rooms are blanket cabled, or budget restraints, leaving many of them redundant, it’s important split each room down into port, room , floor and even riser number, and wire in sequence this will aid when equipment, iP phones , wan access points , door access points , fire sensor equipment or ip cctv are added , only Velcro tied in 10 cables at a time and label , as cables can be damaged in building work this easier replacement, also in some organisations they insist on two switch setup above or below each keystone bank to separate vlans for Poe or public access points , the exact details should be discussed in network planning with the client
Nice cable work management guide overall but, you made a few crucial mistakes. First you need to use Velcro wraps instead of those plastic zip ties. Next you are supposed to have a Rigid Plastic Insulated Bushing attached to the end of that "chase" pipe that's coming out of the wall, that your cables are coming out of. It protects the wires and prevents damage to the wire insulation and is flame retardant material to 105C. You also must install a "ground" wire to your data rack. After you're finished with everything, it would be a good idea to use "Fire Stop" putty to cover up the hole you made in the wall for your data cables, in case of a fire. The big mistake you made is on port #2 of your patch panel. First off, look at video marker 4:33 just before you were getting ready to punch down (terminate) those cables. You accidentally put the brown pair in the wrong slot.. it's reversed. On port #1, you have white blue...blue white; white green...green white; white orange...orange white; white brown...brown white, which is correct for T568A. But on port #2, you have white blue...blue white; white green...green white; white orange...orange white; Then you reversed the brown pair. It should be white brown...brown white. Instead of brown white...white brown. Also try next time to keep the cable jacket closer to the patch panel while you're adding each twisted pair to their pins. Your cable jacket should be in the center of each block between pairs 2&3. It will then look like the pairs are fanned out. I see you are using the old method of T568A when everyone these days is using the industry standard of T568B. For the other viewers, T568A is only used in some older hospitals/medical centers and for Nurse Call devices and in some older schools. I hope you tested all the cabling and Jack's before you signed off on your patch panel job. And lastly, you shouldn't have had your patch cords buried in the back of that rack. They are supposed to be in the front. I'm surprised nobody else caught this in the comments section about that reversed pair on port #2. Sorry. Didn't mean to nit pick everything on your mistakes but, that's the way these installations are done these days. Oh well, nice tutorial anyways. Thanks for sharing.
Not to be critical, but I would use velcro not zip ties. Also, I would use jacks, not punchdown panels. Last. I just use 1ft patch cables and save the 2u of space.
Nice video but noticed that you didn't use the U unit spaces as intended in the rack. Each U space has three square holes represented vertically. The two square holes closest to each other are the division points between each Unit.
Great video. Next time use Velcro ties and maybe one cable manager, or no manager at all by just getting some short 1-2ft patch cables. 4U for 24 cables sounds like an over kill
1. Cables must be as short as possible 2. Cables must not be exposed outside the wall rack. They should be putted inside a trunk. 3. Patch panel must be labeled with correspondent outlets 4. Patch cords must be connected in an easier way (think about troubleshooting and replacing). Shorter patch cords can be used (0.5 m) with with only 1 CMU.
Where do we start.... No to cable ties! If you're going to use them DON'T overtighten like that and crush the cables! Why bother making the bundle tidy all the way to the rack just to leave them messy on entry.. also, make use of the 'U' markings in the rack, that's what they're there for! Might need to add kit in the future after all.. make patch leads up to length too, dread to think what a mess it is behind the panels and go easy on that punching down... It's not a strongman contest 💪 Otherwise, looks good 🙌
First, no cable ties, use velcro as mentioned in other comments, second : if you are persistant and use them anyway cut those damn things flush, the next person working on the cables will get cut on the sharp edges, also your cables will get destroyed.
Might as well have gone with velcro instead of zip ties. Is it possible to use a single 1u organizer and still get decent results? I figure if you need to waste 2 rack units might as well just have a patch panel on both sides of the switch and use short cables.
Of course 1U will be enough, it just comes down to the point of having cables with the right length. Too much slack could fill up the organizer quickly
Yeah it is. No need for the length of the patch cables. Could have got away with a single management panel. If that switch ever gets replaced with something slightly deeper you gonna have to re do all the cabling at the front.
Brother! Use the Velcro instead of cable tie, Because of if we arrange some additional cable we remove the Velcro and rapping again, Sometimes the cable tie injures our hands,
i want to see the cabel managemnt of the interieur of the rack also is not good to zip .if you install a bigger switch or router how do you do it with all the cabels in the back .i want to see a video with this .Please
I do not understand why we cannot directly plug the ethernet cables coming out from the walls directly to the PoE switch. What is the reason to have an intermediate device in between the ethernet cables coming out from wall and PoE switch?
Patch panel is very useful when it comes to management.. you can easily manage cables and also in case if extension you have flexibility to extend cable by using longer patch cords without cutting or punching connector again. Hope it's clear..
Not to be too critical but when you were cutting down your cable on the panel you had the brown pair backward and the orange pair where the green pair goes... there is a reason why they are mapped and a reason why they put a picture there.... you should have followed it. Also when you lace your cables from the wall do so with the bend expected to be a permanent part of the cable path and it won't bunch up when you actual bend them... your punch tool would have cut better if you tipped it slightly toward the cutting edge...you get a C
Good points, he still has to learn how to lace cables, that bundle should be easy they are not that many, his bundle is twisted from the wall (he forgot to clean the cable first than start to lace) and other think where are the labels on the cable and patch cable!
Nice looking cabinet. However, I have several suggestions. First, do not use zip ties. Second, you are putting equipment in the cabinet randomly, without taking care of U units. Distances between those square holes are there for a reason. Between each U unit, which consists of 3 square holes, there is narrow interspace. Between holes which are part of certain U unit, there is wider interspace.
All pieces of equipment that you have installed has a height of 1U unit, and they have two holes on each side that will fit with top and bottom holes of U unit. If you will not install equipment exactly into U units you will have problems with screws that will not screw. This problem will be even more serious when you will be installing rack servers with rack rails that will not fit because of rails' bolts that will not overlap with rack holes. Later you will have to leave spaces just like in the video, to make things straight again.
Def. should use zip ties. If you use Velcro, some lazy asshole WILL undo it "just for a minute" and in a year, it'll look like a rats nest. Only the most outrageous asshole would cut off all those zip ties to add/remote a cable, though. Velcro is just too big a temptation for the lazy.
This is an IDF closet. No servers are going in there. Leaving spaces can improve ventilation.
@@user-nh3gu1ge3d you underestimate the outrageous assholishness of people with access to the wiring closet, and their lack of a bag of zip ties. I charge people pretty good money for wire closet cleanups. I hope they have an employee that jacks it all up again - more than happy to come fix it again ... for a price ;)
@@enchantingendlers2105 in that case, you should probably leave a 1U space between rackmount devices, instead of 1/3U lol. I don't care how good his cable management is if he doesn't understand rack units.
you watched thisvideos 3 years back to complain? nah u crazy
Just as a suggestion: do not use zipties. They will likely damage the rubber coat of the cable. Use velcro or something comparable. This also makes it far easier to add/replace/remove cables from the bundle.
Agreed, you get cheap velcro (hook-and-loop tape) packs (100 stripes) for like 5 USD.
Zipties on copper - only being tightened down a REASONABLE amount - are just fine and cause no problem. They will not "likely" damage copper cabling as long as they aren't over-tightened.
I WILL give you credit on the point that using velcro makes adding and even removing cable easier. There's that.
Velcro is preferred these days but let's not get the facts twisted here, either.
@@cyrylthewolf The facts aren't twisted, because, in order to stay in place at the point you want them, zipties need to be tightened. If you prefer dangling zipties on any place but the place you want them, go for it.
Sure, you can put only a necessary amount of force into it, but how many people do this? If your cable management is alright due to the fact, that you carefully put zipties everywhere, that's completely fine (thumps up in this case).
But for inexperienced, velcro is just better, e.g. if they need to move the cable trees around.
@@alphaprot2518 - You said, "do not use zipties".
That direction is not justified as zip ties - USED CORRECTLY - are perfectly fine for copper cabling.
"zipties need to be tightened"
As does velcro...
I have no idea what you mean by "dangling zipties" as I don't have that problem. I trip the excess - as is part of the "using it correctly" deal. It's not rocket science.
" If your cable management is alright due to the fact, that you carefully put zipties everywhere"
Otherwise known as "managing cable". LOL
Velcro IS preferable. But there is NOTHING wrong with zipties if used correctly. (Again... Not hard. Doesn't really take 'experience' either. It's a freakin' ziptie.)
The point is that you're telling people "do not use zipties" without justification. Say that they're generally preferred - which seems to be accurate these days with so much more fiber hanging about in our data centers/data rooms, sure.
But don't discourage it all together. It's still an applicable method.
Ziptie master race does not concur. Ziptie everything so your users are deterred from touching things.
I have 2 rules for myself when I do cabling, 1) always use shortest possible cables; and 2) only use velcros, no cable ties.
Yes Velcro is good..
I think the reason why he used longer patch cables because if you have high-speed internet, the cat6 and cat5e cable shorter than 3 ft often create interference and crosstalk. I have 300 Mbps download speeds. As soon as I plug a cat6 cable shorter than 3 feet, the speed drop to 100 Mbps.
Yes i Agree, Because of if we arrange some additional cable we remove the Velcro and rapping again,
Sometimes the cable tie injures our hands,
1) yeah, it look nicer, but try to replace a switch without long outage time
Science and Tech so do you just need to make the cables 3’ 3”? I’m new to all this networking stuff and want to build my own.
Good job! 2 suggestions I could make. Use flush cutter instead of scissor to cut zip tye.. otherwise the small sharp plastic left can cut someone badly! Also you should install equipments in theirs respecting U, do not left single hole at top and space by 3 holes if needed. installing another equipment will be much easier!
very true those small sharp plastics can bring hell to the technician
Great vid!!!
Some tips for efficiency during install & as well as over time for maintenance:
1) Velcro not cable ties (both inside and outside of the cabinet)
1.1) Adding extra cables will take forever unless you make a new bundle over time.
2) The cut-off ends of the zip-tie can be very sharp, and cut you, a co-worker or could damage new cabling installed. More reason to use Velcro.
3) Use a strain relief bar behind the patch panel. This allows an easy to access gap between each cable IDC. As you are currently showing, you will work over the cables & have zero room to easily access 1x cable.
4) Rather do not use a traditional patch panel & instead get a patch panel that takes RJ45 inline couplers. Then you just make a standard RJ45 termination VS a punch down.
5) In such a small rack, space is expensive. Rather use very short cables and only occupy 2U vs 4u.
6) Create the service look behind the vertical rails. If you put a device with more depth in there, you might damage the cables.
7) Install a premade RGB strip & leave it on the company colour(s).
Thanks for giving suggestions ..
Neat tool, I try to get 0.10m patch cables these days and go PP, Switch, PP and flood patch, I dont like cables down the back or sides of the switches as they more often than not vent their heat in those spaces.
Great to see the constructive criticism, wish they could make their video with all the recommendations they made.
Thank you brother.
best video I have ever seen, quick and very neat!
Nice work! I would have installed the cabinet so it would cover the hole in the wall, where the cables come out.
Those NavePoint cabinets do not have a cable inlet in back, only bottom. They should have use some conduit.
@@LinwoodPowell The cabinet back can always be perforated! But yeah, conduit would be an alternative. I just think a nice cabinet with real neat wire management loses purpose when you have wires coming up from an ugly hole in the wall!
I think the rack would of been too low if he mounted it over the hole where the cables are coming out, but yeah that would be more appealing astetically
Very clear demonstration. Thanks
Thanks
Nice work. Use a side cutter to cut the cable ties flush to prevent any injuries.
hey yesterday i have lots of confusion about patch pannel but after watching your video i am 100% clear what exactly patch pannel is i have subscribe to your channel also
thanks a lot
Glad I could help, Thanks for the subscribe :)
well explained. Thank you so much.
I hate cabling without labeling, even if it seems too excessive now, it will definitely help the next engineer to replace the failed switch
Isn't that the point of the patch panel? Label that?
You are right bro
Patch Port 1 ---TO---> Switch Port 1
Patch Port 2 ---TO---> Switch Port 2
Patch Port 3 ---TO---> Switch Port 3
.
.
.
.
Patch Port 22 ---TO---> Switch Port 22
Patch Port 23 ---TO---> Switch Port 23
Patch Port 24 ---TO---> Switch Port 24
where is the fault?
👍 I enjoyed watching, you do excellent work! Only thing I do different...I do not punch-down my cables, I install RJ45 plugs on the cabling and use a keystone bracket & pass-through jacks. Makes trouble shooting much easier...I use bigger cabinets as I install a rackmount UPS along with a rackmount surge protected power strip 😎
This cable management somewhat satisfied my OCD :p
i enjoyed this video, it shows ur professionalism
Thanks .. pls subscribe for more stuff like that ..
The second cable punched in a wrong way - you should put brown wire first then white and brown..., using velcro is better than ties..., if you want to use ties you need to cut it all, don't leave a small piece it works as a knife latter when you work inside the rack...
Great video. Cam someone help me with estimation? I want to as to how many rolls of cables, patch panels are required in a specific project? Any videos on these?
Excellent work
Tks for this video! (Obrigado pelo vídeo)
Welcome :)
Great video even the good suggestions! Thanks for sharing
Thanks
Great job man! but i guess if you want to 'teach' good practices just 2 tips..
1.use hook and loop velcro, it is wider in general and wont pinch the cable, this wont attenuate the UTP signal.
2nd is buy a label printer, your approach might be easy on the eyes(that counts a lot), but could be a nightmare for other techs to figure out which one is which.
I like your video and your installation, but I would do it a bit other way:
1. USE VELCRO STRIPS INSTEAD OF ZIP TIES. I wrote this with Caps Lock on because you overtightened these ties, deforming and damaging the cables. I've seen way too many "it sometimes work and sometimes not" network troubles caused by this. Zip ties are awesome, but not when used like this. You'll also find out velcro (or similar) strips are reusable, so it's easier to keep it nice and clean over time with adding/replacing/removing cables and everything. I am well aware many people here wrote this already, please see their comments as well.
2. Install the cabinet so that the tube coming through the wall ends in the cabinet, not below it. This makes it cleaner (less dust in the cabinet) and nicer to look at. I also find it more comfortable to work with. Other people already mentioned this.
3. These patchcords are going wild in the back, possibly affecting the cooling of the switch. I usually route them in a conduit on the side, so they aren't getting in switch's airflow.
4. I heavily prefer modular patch panels with individual keystones. It is a bit more expensive, but I found it better in certified Cat6 and above installations.
5. Include a plan, legend or some other aid to know which cable is which. I usually put it on inside side of cabinet's door. I also always use racks with full metal doors, not glass ones.
6. Some color coding, maybe? If this only connects 24 computers or Wi-Fi APs together to some fiber or other uplink, having all the patchcords the same color is okay. If not, using for example green for LAN, blue for SAN and so is a good practice - don't forget to document this in the aforementioned plans/schematics on the front door. Somebody else already wrote this, and I add - if there is more than one cabinet in the building/campus, use the same color-code everywhere.
7. Ensure proper cooling of switches, router and/or other devices in the cabinet. There should be good airflow, unobstructed by wild cables (this reminds me, how did you store spare length of incoming cables?) or other stuff withing the cabinet.
8. Use air filters to make sure the cabinet isn't collecting all the dust in the room, even if it is a dedicated server room or something.
TL;DR: You have done well. It isn't perfect, but I'd still recommend you to a relative - just please use velcro strips instead of zip ties, or at least don't tighten them this much.
Spot on on all counts.
Personally I'd add that while this looks very organised, it's actually pretty difficult to work with and to trace cables. I prefer to forego the plastic cable management strips and instead mount the switch directly under the patch panel, then use 25 or 30cm patch leads straight into the switch. (Which is admittedly more difficult with a switch like the one in this video where all the ports are on the right-hand side).
This works beautifully with 48-port switches and 24-port patch panels. Install a patch panel top, then use short patch leads to go to the 24 top ports on the switch. Then install a patch panel below and use short patch leads to the 24 bottom ports on the switch. This is neater, it makes it trivially easy to trace cables, it doesn't leave a big bundle of patch leads messily at the back, it takes up less vertical space (so you have room for a small UPS or other gear), and adding, tracing, or moving a patch lead doesn't require access behind the switch and panels so you don't rick knocking out other cables by accident.
I am surprised zip ties are so heavily frowned upon in the comments section, I am using them all the time and never had any issues.
Last time I used A LOT of zipties (hundreds), I ran three POE IP cameras, about 50 meters each line, for 80% of the length ran together through attic and I ziptied the (3) cables together to nails along the way so they stay in place and won't get damaged when moving stuff in and out of the attic. What should I do instead?
@@Jirk4 The main problem is the way they were overtightened in this video. If they were left open a bit more to hold the bundle of cables together but not so tight to put pressure on the cables it would have been fine.
The minor problem with zip ties is they can't be re-used like velcro ones, so if you add a couple more cables they either don't end up bundled in or you have to cut each one and use a new set of zip ties. (And if you choose to cut and the original was too tight, showing the scissors in there to cut the original makes the original tie even tighter).
@@Jirk4 I also use zip ties all the time and they are awesome, but some people tighten them too much, damaging the cables. Most people would just tighten them as much as they can as if they were testing their strength or something.
@@Jirk4 : never had any problem either, used almost billions of zipties over the years. And lately always certified the work with a Fluke CableAnalyzer, sometimes many years after initial installation; without any problem.
Great work 😊
Excelentes video gracias!!
This approach won’t work on large installations, this method is mainly for small installations or home networks where the switch has the same amount of keystones available and order isn’t important When cabling large organisations only x switches may be available and rooms are blanket cabled, or budget restraints, leaving many of them redundant, it’s important split each room down into port, room , floor and even riser number, and wire in sequence this will aid when equipment, iP phones , wan access points , door access points , fire sensor equipment or ip cctv are added , only Velcro tied in 10 cables at a time and label , as cables can be damaged in building work this easier replacement, also in some organisations they insist on two switch setup above or below each keystone bank to separate vlans for Poe or public access points , the exact details should be discussed in network planning with the client
Thanks, good job.
Thank you for sharing sir new supporters here
Nice cable work management guide overall but, you made a few crucial mistakes. First you need to use Velcro wraps instead of those plastic zip ties. Next you are supposed to have a Rigid Plastic Insulated Bushing attached to the end of that "chase" pipe that's coming out of the wall, that your cables are coming out of. It protects the wires and prevents damage to the wire insulation and is flame retardant material to 105C. You also must install a "ground" wire to your data rack. After you're finished with everything, it would be a good idea to use "Fire Stop" putty to cover up the hole you made in the wall for your data cables, in case of a fire. The big mistake you made is on port #2 of your patch panel. First off, look at video marker 4:33 just before you were getting ready to punch down (terminate) those cables. You accidentally put the brown pair in the wrong slot.. it's reversed. On port #1, you have white blue...blue white; white green...green white; white orange...orange white; white brown...brown white, which is correct for T568A. But on port #2, you have white blue...blue white; white green...green white; white orange...orange white; Then you reversed the brown pair. It should be white brown...brown white. Instead of brown white...white brown. Also try next time to keep the cable jacket closer to the patch panel while you're adding each twisted pair to their pins. Your cable jacket should be in the center of each block between pairs 2&3. It will then look like the pairs are fanned out. I see you are using the old method of T568A when everyone these days is using the industry standard of T568B. For the other viewers, T568A is only used in some older hospitals/medical centers and for Nurse Call devices and in some older schools. I hope you tested all the cabling and Jack's before you signed off on your patch panel job. And lastly, you shouldn't have had your patch cords buried in the back of that rack. They are supposed to be in the front. I'm surprised nobody else caught this in the comments section about that reversed pair on port #2. Sorry. Didn't mean to nit pick everything on your mistakes but, that's the way these installations are done these days. Oh well, nice tutorial anyways. Thanks for sharing.
Great video, very detailed and yet not boring. i like velcro though compared to cable ties.
Very clean & nice work done !! Appreciate taking time to make the video and spreading knowledge. Good work !!
good luck adding to this setup
Good working
Not to be critical, but I would use velcro not zip ties. Also, I would use jacks, not punchdown panels. Last. I just use 1ft patch cables and save the 2u of space.
Thanks for your comments.. all these suggestions I have used in my new project pls watch my new video here
th-cam.com/video/fUaTtM0sMGg/w-d-xo.html
so why use the patchpanel? i want to know that
Nice video for beginner
Great Video for info
using cable sock would be a nice neat finish
Nice video but noticed that you didn't use the U unit spaces as intended in the rack. Each U space has three square holes represented vertically. The two square holes closest to each other are the division points between each Unit.
Good old days when i was building racks (:
Hello sir I am from Nepal I need cable organizer do you hav
Do you work at layer 3 now?
Good job!
Great work, I have seen lots of videos about racks and cable management, this is the one to follow 👌🏻👌🏻💪🏻😎
Hello, thank you very much for your idea to organize the rack, I am starting this business, greetings from Colombia
Best of luck 👍
Its really enjoying the symmetry
Very good explanation!
ekdam mast
Cable management: A+
Timelapsing: D
Hello from Russia - good job!
nice work bro
Excellent, good luck, don't you really want a networking student? I willingly agree, I just stay in Iran, I can not progress
Excellent
So satisfying
Amazing job
Today I got the idea that what's the actual use of patch panel👍🏻
And noticed that patch panel port number should be equal to switch port number 😅
Great video. Next time use Velcro ties and maybe one cable manager, or no manager at all by just getting some short 1-2ft patch cables.
4U for 24 cables sounds like an over kill
depends how many endpoints they are looking to switch, a 24 port switch is pretty damn small tbh
Thank you for you sharing this video
Great effort and skill
thanks for sharing this video - that was cool to watch and gave me some great ideas
1. Cables must be as short as possible
2. Cables must not be exposed outside the wall rack. They should be putted inside a trunk.
3. Patch panel must be labeled with correspondent outlets
4. Patch cords must be connected in an easier way (think about troubleshooting and replacing). Shorter patch cords can be used (0.5 m) with with only 1 CMU.
Thanks for your suggestions (: .. here is my new project video th-cam.com/video/fUaTtM0sMGg/w-d-xo.html
Nice job.
I like it just add a little bittle of them
Good work where from you buy Ethernet Network Patch ???? Thanks
Pls check video description..
Grazie vittorio molto utile
coood job, thanks
Thankyou bro good job
Thank you for taking the time to show us how it's done
Thank you for sharing this video. It's great
That's some fine cable management 😂👍❤️
Im sorry if this is an ignorant question. Is this a career choice or job? Sorry just new to this field
forgot to label all cables coming from the wall as well as all patch cords inside the cabinet
Didn't even keep it consistent. For the most part he just plugged cables wherever.
thank you
Welcome (:
Salam Hafiz I like your video
Shukria dear.. Pls subscribe our channel (:
Nice
Where do we start....
No to cable ties! If you're going to use them DON'T overtighten like that and crush the cables! Why bother making the bundle tidy all the way to the rack just to leave them messy on entry.. also, make use of the 'U' markings in the rack, that's what they're there for! Might need to add kit in the future after all.. make patch leads up to length too, dread to think what a mess it is behind the panels and go easy on that punching down... It's not a strongman contest 💪
Otherwise, looks good 🙌
it is pretty good with completely understanding
I admire😐😉😉😁
First, no cable ties, use velcro as mentioned in other comments, second : if you are persistant and use them anyway cut those damn things flush, the next person working on the cables will get cut on the sharp edges, also your cables will get destroyed.
Might as well have gone with velcro instead of zip ties. Is it possible to use a single 1u organizer and still get decent results? I figure if you need to waste 2 rack units might as well just have a patch panel on both sides of the switch and use short cables.
Of course 1U will be enough, it just comes down to the point of having cables with the right length. Too much slack could fill up the organizer quickly
Yeah it is. No need for the length of the patch cables. Could have got away with a single management panel. If that switch ever gets replaced with something slightly deeper you gonna have to re do all the cabling at the front.
Very interesting video. Thanks.
i really love your vidoes
Thanks (: Don't forget to subscribe for more videos !!
Hi your video is excellent
great video
Thank you, Nice video Now i have a general idea how to do
Hi ☺️ Nice work! I liked the cabelguides! Made it look tidy 👍 what brand is that?
Thanks for your comments.. pls check video description all links are available there.. thanks 😊
Brother!
Use the Velcro instead of cable tie,
Because of if we arrange some additional cable we remove the Velcro and rapping again,
Sometimes the cable tie injures our hands,
It was very good. I love it. Thank you so much for sharing.
good ..... don't forget to cross back
i want to see the cabel managemnt of the interieur of the rack also is not good to zip .if you install a bigger switch or router how do you do it with all the cabels in the back .i want to see a video with this .Please
Please check my new project video
th-cam.com/video/fUaTtM0sMGg/w-d-xo.html
Perfeito bom trabalho.
The cable manager link goes to a different cable manager than you are using in the video. Can we get the correct link?
good concept and way of working
nice work brother, keep it up
I do not understand why we cannot directly plug the ethernet cables coming out from the walls directly to the PoE switch. What is the reason to have an intermediate device in between the ethernet cables coming out from wall and PoE switch?
Patch panel is very useful when it comes to management.. you can easily manage cables and also in case if extension you have flexibility to extend cable by using longer patch cords without cutting or punching connector again. Hope it's clear..
Nice work！
I am also a network engineer Nice to see
Not to be too critical but when you were cutting down your cable on the panel you had the brown pair backward and the orange pair where the green pair goes... there is a reason why they are mapped and a reason why they put a picture there.... you should have followed it. Also when you lace your cables from the wall do so with the bend expected to be a permanent part of the cable path and it won't bunch up when you actual bend them... your punch tool would have cut better if you tipped it slightly toward the cutting edge...you get a C
Good points, he still has to learn how to lace cables, that bundle should be easy they are not that many, his bundle is twisted from the wall (he forgot to clean the cable first than start to lace) and other think where are the labels on the cable and patch cable!
Шикардос!
good job! very useful.
Brilliant mate!