I was today years old when I discovered that the metal wires from shielded cat6/7 cables serve as grounding. To be fair, it's not been that long since I've joined the industry, but I'm glad I found it now than later.
Thank you very much for this video! I bought a Cat 7 cable from a retailer, and their guide was very very bad. It had me spent 2 days trying to figure it out, with their support team not understanding me. Then I saw this video, and it worked first try!
There's just nothing like the feeling of crimping the perfect connector... then looking down and seeing the boot lying separate on the table. You got my subscription with this video. I feel about running network cable like I feel about doing woodwork. For someone who hates it, I seem to do an awful lot of it.
IMO the boot is optional, and for the vast majority of cases, I prefer to not have the boot. I've had lots of experience with the boot plastic hardening because of age, and environment, and once hardened it becomes substantially harder to disconnect the cable from the device.
I use to wire up RJ45 plugs before they had the "load bar." You would have to prepare all the wire and then run them up into the plug with nothing but your finger tips holding them into place and give the wires a little side to side twist so they would run up into the slots until they bottomed out at the end and then crimp it.
As an AV tech I love it when the higher-ups demand load bar connectors just because I get paid more, but I have to say I've never had a short problem with pass-throughs. I think the key is good tools, most importantly your flush cutters and the blade on your crimpers. Replacements are sold for most crimpers and maintaining the blade like a good knife will ensure that the cut-off is smooth and short-free. When you look at the end of the completed connector each wire end should look like a little colored donut with a shiny copper dot in the middle-no crushing or smearing of the copper leads into each other. Another cheat I've seen is a small dab of gel CA glue spread over the ends of the wires exposed at the end of the connector. Do this after testing and before insertion, and please let the CA dry before installation or it'll be permanent. I had the opportunity to have a break-time competition with a guy who had one of those bad-ass testers, and the difference between an EZ connector and a high-end connector, both well installed, is negligible for most AV and non-military applications. The truth is that these connectors are engineered to avoid interaction between potential short points. If you plug a pass-through into a socket and get a short you really have to evaluate your terminating technique!
I've been using the EZ RJ45 pass-through connectors since they came out. They save me so much valuable time which could easily be wasted with troubleshooting regular RJ45 connectors. To date I haven't had a single short as I use a very high quality crimping tool with auto-trimmer. Will never go back to regular closed end connectors.
A friend of mine gave me a bag of those connectors with that little plastic insert. Those are used for stranded wire. I use the passthrough for solid wire. Just makes it easy to see the colors and then just adjust the wire, cut and pull back for a perfect flush. Try doing that with stranded wire and you'll be pulling your hair. That's how I found what those were for. Plus the bag clearly says that. He just ordered the wrong ones.
Had zero issues with passthrough connectors, been using them since they appeared on the market, any claim about "shorts" is rubbish, I just use quality connectors and a proper crimping tool and get the job done fast and professionally.
Sir, thank you very much. I was re-terminating a outdoor rated Icky-Pick filled patch cable last night and things were just going so fast. I went to go use these new modular RJ45 ends and kept having to redo it because there were no GROOVES like normal lol. Wow I felt DUMB! Now! I feel grateful annnd SMARTER lol. Thanks ~
That moment your struggling with the inserting the cables, then wanting to buy the passtrough connectors and seeying the wire guides where included in the package, thanks allot this helps!
just installed a big system in the warehouse with about 160 connectrors. Used cheap chinese pliers and pass-throught connectors. Out of all of them all was working except two. One because of security pin broke off, second : because wires were mixed. They crimped perfectly
IMO modular works great because it's staggered. It allows each cable to have its own chamber so the pin is much less likely to miss the bite into the wire and slip in-between the wire and jacket. They also sell non-modular that are staggered, that's what I use. They shouldn't have enough room to slip to the side, that's why you're not supposed to use CAT5 (24 gauge) in CAT6 (23 gauge (bigger)) connectors. But in the last 5+ years I haven't had a bad connection using non-modular staggered CAT6 with CAT5 😉
I bought staggered connectors once, and hated them (I think I still have them somewhere). With the additional module is nice, but only staggered, I could never find how to get them in the holes. With the linear Cat5e, I would prepare them and tension them against wall while sliding in. But staggered??? And recently I bought passthrough, but did not crimp any yet.
@@mateiberatco500 i mostly use staggered (non modular), that's my go to. But! It took me a LONG time to get used to it and get it just right. They also have staggered passthrough, witch IMO would be the best of all worlds. Staggered let's you get away with using cat5 (thinner wire) with cat6 terminations. So you can just have a bag of Cat6 staggered passthrough for everything, solid, stranded, cat5, thin/thick jacket, and they won't shift to the side and cause the pin to park on the side of the wire vs biting into it.
The nice thing about the pass through connector is that you can thread each strand through one at a time in the right order, and then pull them straight. That way you don't have to do all the straightening and ordering up front, which is in my experience, the time consuming bit when adding a plug. It looks like that would work with modular load bar as well. Have you tried that?
I tried that after reading similar comments on the previous video I put out (this one: th-cam.com/video/NWhoJp8UQpo/w-d-xo.html) but couldn't get them to thread through nicely so went back to the method I showed. Maybe I need to practise more, but grouping them together works for me so I'll probably stick with that. Great that there's another method though, and if it works better for some people then I'm all for that :)
@@SwitchedOnNetwork If the connector of RJ45 can be injection molded into one, it will be better, with guaranteed quality and more beautiful appearance
Legitimately thank you for this video, I had no clue they made the connectors with a modular load bar. This is an absolute game changer. Definitely getting some of these, my server closet is about to have one heck of a makeover. (also somehow never realized you could buy those little cable stress relievers as a pre-made drop in component for cable making, I always just assumed those were always just injection molded in the factory and required some sort of expensive machine to make, never thought about there being a slip on option for homemade cables)
Sorry to disappoint but it's Not a cable stress reliever. it only Protects the clip from braking when your pulling it out of your to messy cable management Trey. at home mostly you realy don't need it. the stress Relieve is at the end of your original plug sadly the video dos not mention the cable shielding is seposed to go under it if your doing it richt. Also it is a good idear to strip the cable longer it make arranging the cables easier and your can twist the excess together so they dos fall all over when you cut them later.
I wanted to find how "load bars" are actually named, but had zero idea. Thanks to you I have found them! Also, very useful tips and demonstration on how to wire up TP cable! Thanks for the video!
Missed the part where the wires jump grooves when you slide the bandwidth separator (what my job calls it) down. I would also suggest pushing it down ever so slightly more than you need. This way when you flush cut, you dont risk cutting the separator as well. Then you just slide it to the ends of the wires.
That shouldn't be necessary if you have a good flush cutter tool (like the one I used, and linked in description) and use proper technique. However, it's still a good idea for an alternative technique if that's a problem so thanks! :)
The reason for t-568 having an a and b standard is for when you need crossover cables. The shield is for electromagnetic (EMF) interference. You dont have to bond the shield if you're not running the cable through areas where you're not having to deal with emf interference or you're not trying to use the cable near its maximum speeds.
With FastEthernet (100Mbps) they started introducing auto MDI-X, which means they can detect a crossover cable. So today (at least with Gbit devices), I think you can use a crossover cable (one end A, other end B) with any network device and it will work.
@@mateiberatco500 just looked it up. Apparently most modern devices are equipped with auto mdix and it will set itself according to the auto detect. However, since it's not guaranteed, there may be some instances where a crossover cable will be required. This is typically from network switch to network switch where crossover cables are traditionally required. It's also required if you skip the network switch and do a peer to peer direct connection between computers/consoles.
@@ianbelletti6241 "Traditionally required"... that made me smile. I used straight cables between PCs during the 100Mbps era. Granted, the cards were marketed as auto-MDI/MDI-X. Also I have played with a lot of switches (since 100Mbps era), including my 2 new 2.5Gbps and POE-powered switches (5-port POE pass-through). I remember using crossover just for some early 100Mbps switches. Of course, 90% of world products is not 100%. PS: I see on wikipedia that there are 2 configurations that use the switchable pairs for power. I guess a crossover cable would reverse-polarity the device???
@@mateiberatco500 what happens in standard fixed connections is that you have a transmit pair and a receiving pair in each device. When the two connector wirings match, you need a crossover cable to make sure the transmit pair on one device connects to the receiving pair on the other device. Auto mdix automatically negotiates this by detecting which pair on the device's end is transmit and which is receive and chooses to use the a or b standard on its connector to ensure that the communication can occur. On devices that are not auto mdix, you are expected to know if you are connecting like to like connectors (a to a or b to b) or different connectors (a to b). If it's like to like, you need a crossover cable. If it's different, then you need a standard cable. Traditionally, user end devices had one connector standard and switches used the other. You could connect end user device to switch with a standard cable but direct peer to peer or switch to switch required crossover cables.
@@ianbelletti6241 And my point is that since 1000Gbit switches and cards, I have NOT found a device (cards and motherboards) lacking auto-MDI-X. Which means it really doesn't matter. The example I was thinking: if you need to replace the connector and you're too lazy to check the other end, on the other side of the house. As long as you remember that you stuck with t-568, you don't have to bother which variant (or if the other side is the switch with a mix of A/B wiring and can't easily identify the "victim" cable). PS: I have not used a crossover cable in years, including Raspberry PI directly to a 10Mbps retro card (the latter which, by the way, does not have audo-MDI-X... a single side is enough).
a cable made with a T568A on one end and a T568B on the other end is known as a crossover, mainly used between devices of the same type, these days MDI-X is supposed to detect what is at the end of the cable and adjust as needed but I still do it the old way as it eliminates something else going wrong, I prefer to use the use the 'razor' on the cutters on the the tool, they make a neater job if you have a good one and saves time and hassle of reaching for a 2nd tool - saves a lot of time when wiring up cabinets with lots of switchports in a neat and tidy fashion. the best way to get good at this is to do a lot of them -
Your voice makes me think of Henry Cavil for some reason, is that why this is the only video which actually helps me make cat7 terminations? You're a godsend Henry Cavil of the Ethernetworld
@@SwitchedOnNetwork i see these videos are popular i looked on the back of my modem router and noticed an ethernet cable split into two rj11 for the dsl and phone line..have you made one of those? would like to see your version of explanation.
I have only connected a few for home use but without a pass through. To hold the ends I cut a ~8mm strip from an old credit card, fold it and use it to hold the wires in a tight group. Seems to work fairly well but that pass through makes it look much easier.
What do you mean by cat 5 and 6 should be good for 1 gigabit and cat 7 - for 10? I am sure 2.5 and 5 gigabit both work on 5e and 6, and 6 and 6a can carry 10G.
Maybe this isn't the best place for this comment, but I'll go for it. My company stopped the whole clown show around CAT7 and those ridiculous swiss-watch connectors a couple of years ago when optical baluns hit the market. One fiber line to a managed switch gets it done with even better speed and, check it, no EMF interference! Sheesh we can buy prebuilt cables with baluns pre-installed! And they work GREAT!
Yeah fibre's pretty sweet and it's so cheap nowadays. I put out a video on it recently, but it's not done that well so feel free to go and give it some love ;-) th-cam.com/video/XQjP135ZtcE/w-d-xo.html
I started working in this industry in my early twenties. Back then I would bang out 100 patch cords fully terminated and booted in under an hour. We used a small machine if they were available to crimp the RJ45, otherwise we'd do it with a hand tool which would take longer.
We never made our own patch cables, every project we go to we would take a partitioned box with different sizes of pre-made (stranded) cables. Then for the runs between rooms, we use solid core cables and terminate them in punch down blocks.
Yeah you'd never bother making your own short patch cables, but for longer custom length runs which *can't* go into a patch panel or a keystone jack, this is how...
I got my house wired up and I had to do something similar with my keystone patch panel. When I was doing the first cable the technician was still around and gave me some advice in which now I'm still pretty sure made me do my first cable end in "A" config. After he left I kept going by learning with a YT video and ended up doing the rest of the cables in "B" config. When I tested all the cables are working seemingly fine, I tested with the network cable tester, all cables + ground light up sequentially on both ends like in this video, but I don't know how the other cable ends are setup. I'm now worried that I might have some crossover cables but my internet is working just fine.
If they light up sequentially on both ends, then they must be the same wiring at each end so you'll have standard patch cables rather than crossovers. If you do have some crossovers, I think some switches and network interfaces are clever enough to detect that and adjust accordingly, so would still work - but don't quote me on that!
In my experience it’s not super necessary to use flush-cutters to cut away the foil shielding for the individual pairs. If you unwrap it and just keep twisting it will give and come right off. Not a huge difference but it helps to know when you don’t have your flush cutters with you that moment.
No matter what i do how straight i have the wiring, i can never get any of my network cables to work. I'm not sure if i'm cutting the wires to short or they move as i put on the rj-45 connector
What some people fail to understand is when you use shielded cable, it must be grounded at one end. This means the connector it plugs into must also be shielded. If there is no shielded & grounded connector, then the shield is useless. I have worked with switches that have shielded & grounded connectors and I have also brought out the shield wire to connect it to a ground point. In telecom, where I spent decades of my career, shields and grounds are a big issue. Also, my understanding is that TIA-568A is preferred, not B. Also, I prefer A because it places the orange wire between the green and blue. With some cables, it's hard to tell the difference between green & blue, so having the orange wire in between means you're less likely to go cross eyed, trying to make sure the plug is wired correctly.
Originally TIA 568A was meant for residential work while TIA 568B was meant for commercial work... TIA 568B has been the dominant choice for all now...
@@MrSupersidewinder Actually, 568A matched the telephone system cabling that had been in use for decades before there was even such a thing a Ethernet. 568B came about with StarLAN, which eventually became 10baseT. It was designed to use the existing 3 pair CAT 3 telephone cables that were commonly used in offices. Since pair 1 (blue) was used for the phone line, the orange & green pairs were used for the LAN. I have never heard of the distinction between residential and commercial work and my telecom background goes back 50 years and first LAN work in 1978. I also got my CCNA several years ago.
The only thing I've ever heard about the difference between A and B (and this is purely rumor and hearsay) is that A is more common in Australia, but B is used everywhere else, unless a sparky did the wiring job.
I don't run cables full time - I'm a systems admin. But I've crimped at least hundreds and probably over a thousand cables using the old way, enough that I haven't had to look at a wiring diagram in more than a decade. I've crimped enough that it was very rare for me to have to re-crimp a termination. At first I was skeptical of passthrough RJ45 plugs. No longer. They are superior - easier to use and you know if the pinout is correct before you crimp. I have given away my old crimpers and ends.
I've terminated hundreds of passthrough RJ45's without a single failure. Genuinely didn't know people think there's a risk of shorting with them. This seems rather convoluted, but perhaps required when working with complex shielded connectors.
Me too! I've never had an issue with them myself, but the comments section of the video tutorial on pass through plugs was so rife with arguments about shorts that I thought a video on these would be a good shout 😄
5:18 I found if there is a wire issue part way along the drop, the wire tester may show all 8 lighting but the end point may only negotiate at 100M. Dealing with this at a clients office right now.
Great educational video! However, in real life, I would prefer using a Pass-Through RJ45 connector because it’s quicker and simpler to use. In the video, you used separate tools for each step, like one tool for stripping the cable and another for cutting it. It would be a real pain in the a** to carry so many tools on-site, especially when I’m on a ladder or working in a cramped storage room with a wall-mounted rack.
Can I splice fiber at home too? I want to move my ISP modem to the attic but I'm afraid I'll pull off the plug at the end of the fiber as I withdraw it through the in-wall tubing. So, I'd like to know that I can repair a broken fiber if necessary. Thank you.
The worst part about finding the correct plug is that there are too many CAT6 and CAT6A cable types (gauges). I had to go through several modular RJ45 connector brands/types to find the correct one (many manufacturers don't specify cable/plug gauge). I also have probably around 5 types of UTP/STP cables around house for some reason. Weirdly enough CAT5e (non-modular) plugs seem to be the most flexible and work even with CAT6A cables. I often find cables moving to the side in the modular plugs after crimping even though everything looked fine before crimping. Wish there were connectors with metallic load bars instead of the cheap plastic ones.
Yeah it's always important to match the gauge of the cable to that of the plug - I was doing an installation once where another contractor had supplied the cable but I ended up having to put some of my own plugs on and it turned out his wire was thicker and it was a nightmare until we got the right ends!
I've been making cables for over a decade and never had an issue with the pass through ends. They are what everyone should use imo. Furthermore, 99.99999% of people don't need cat7 (or anything over 6a). Cat 6 is sufficient for nearly all uses, hell, even cat5e. Unless you're running 10 gigabit, 5e is fine, unless you're running over fluorescent lights or some crazy EMI. "Future proofing" cable is dumb. 20+ year old cat5e still exceeds almost all workloads. You can run 20 simultaneous 4k streams on a single cat5e cable. Don't buy into the cable salesman's hype, it just extra money and difficulty for zero benefit in 99% of cases.
Agree, more often than not, is more important the conector rather than the cable. Not saying you need expensive ones, just a decent quality (for some years i had cheap ones and it was difficult to work on them, almost never crimped well, and didnt latch to the cable, the little plastic always broke)
I've tried 3 hours to correctly set those modulars connectors and they were always switching positions at the end of the connector. I went and bought regular connectors and it was perfect in 5mins.
I mean.... Make the wire about 3" long instead of how short they are in the beginning. Straighten them out and then cut straight across while holding the wires flat. Allows you to have room to hold the wires in place while shoving them through the connector. Makes it WAY EASIER.
Is it possible for a LAN cable to pass a continuity test (the 1-8 thing), but still carry problems? We're getting 200 MBPS from our 8 port switch. But when connected to a router via lan cable, its dropping to 8MBPS. But the lan cable seems crimped perfectly and passes the continuity test?!
I have a question though: wouldn’t it be better to strip away the outer jacket and crimp that strain relief to that instead of peeling back and twisting the braided shielding? I feel like that would give a better mechanical connection for both the strain relief and the shielding, as it’s clamping down on a more ‘regular’ surface, less chance of a gap or looser connection.
At my work the solid green and blue trade places all others are the same. The jacks are wired with the B . I done a few cross overs but not many. I need to ask where the cross overs were used I don't remember. 73
Crossover cables are used for connecting one PC to another without going through a switch. The switch has logic that converts the streams, but regular NICs don't. Tech is improving, so this is less of an issue now than it once was.
@@catatonicbug7522 yeah my zona switch will take all configurations and convert them. The green and blue trade is not a crossover. It's our standard hook up. I don't know why we have to have all these other hook ups. I.never used the crossover for two computers the network does it all without removing computers from their locations. Our IS person can remote from the old building and make changes on my computer. There is some setup required which I know nothing about. My job is to repair jacks and network cables when problems arise. The IS person is disabled and has a hard time walking between buildings. If he needs to have the computer at his station I bring it to him. We just got fiber for our building from the. Road. I don't know if the old fiber optic cable between buildings is still used I guess for backup it may be. 73
I tryed the crimper tool suggested in the comments and it didn't work with CAT7 cables. On the box of the product I received from Amazon, it didn't say CAT7. Only CAT3/CAT5/CAT6. That might explain why the crimper doesn't work with CAT7 cable. Am I right of did I do something wrong?
@@SwitchedOnNetwork I followed all the steps you suggest. Did I do something wrong or I simply didn't have the right tool ? I'll receive the new tool today and I'll find out soon.
It's moisture that people are most worried about I think, especially in PoE applications. But of course, if moisture is a possibility or concern then "using closed instead of passthrough plugs" shouldn't be the solution, using a proper waterproofing boot should be the minimum they'd do! (For an interesting read, take a look at the comments section of the passthrough plugs video on my channel! 🤣)
I haven't heard of a loading bar and it appears to be an extra step I don't need. I use pass-through connectors and once I slide the wires into place, I check the color coding to ensure nothing got twisted or mixed up. Once I crimp down, the excess wire is cut flush to the end of the connector and its ready to go. All the other steps you did are the same for me.
Yeah these are kind of a best of both worlds between standard and passthrough as these have closed ends when completed, so if that's required it ticks that box.
my cables always look ghetto because the wire is usually sticking out of the bottom of the connector because i leave too much slack and don't cut it off. I also don't straiten the wires all the way, so it sometimes takes a few tries to get the wires to stay, and not bend. This is all with standard, non-passthrough connectors, and 23 AWG wire.
Q. i ve done it all prefect .... as on this vid ... pt i have a problem which is my internet speed is now 90 MB only instead of 2000 MB ? any help ? PLS
If all 8 contacts are good and there's nothing causing interference I'd try disconnecting the shielding at one end - depending on your setup/equipment it might only want shielding at one end. Let me know how you get on!
Got the cable tester and it says cable is good, but Cat6 won’t negotiate correctly. I assume on non shielded cables it’ll be an interference issue rather than cable break? I need to Earth my wall cabinet to some copper pipe.
For it not to negotiate at all, I'd assume it's something other than interference (unless you have some major, major interference going on!) Are you able to test the cable elsewhere, or test the connection between devices with a different cable (move devices closer and use a known-working patch lead) to either rule out or in the cable you've just made up? Let me know how you get on! 🤞🤞
@@SwitchedOnNetwork it comes up if I pin the speed down on the switch to 100 FDXz Not ideally, but worst case I’ll have to do another pull / reterminate Cable tester lights pass as expected. Asked a few friends / colleagues if they had a fluke I could borrow. Excel and FS keystone etc
Tested both switched and server and need to pin port on switch for it to come up, but won’t come up at 1Gb Worked at SSE years ago where we pinned both sides, pain in the arse when either team fluffs their config. I’ve had to pin Nexus 9k SFP28 as they don’t auto negotiate. This however is a “simple” cat 6 run to a patch panel and then patch to a device.
Well I already been doing this for year's but never know that braided shielding was a ground wire. I always cut it off as I think it wasn't important..😅 guess I learn new things and do it properly.. gotta change my current cable right now..🙂
ha, glad you learnt something! Bear in mind, that's only relevant if the switch it's plugged into provides grounding for it to connect to - otherwise it's pointless. So you might not gain anything by changing just your cable.
@@SwitchedOnNetwork I see so not all port connection have grounding only some of them.. anyway looking forward to your other video.. I just found your channel recently and I’m interest on it already.. just sub for you and hope you can keep continuing on what you do. 🙂👍
It might do, depending on which ones and what interference you might have locally. If it works fine, then I'd be tempted to leave if but if you do have issues (of it it's not just something at your own home) then I'd chop off and redo properly - there's a reason why each one goes where it does.
Wait why cant i use stripped orange orange stripped green green stripped purple purple ans stripped brown and brown ... The wires are anyway commected in the correct order on both sides ..
When wiring RJ45 plugs, you must use the T568A or T568B standards because each pair of wires is specifically twisted to perform a distinct function, such as sending/receiving data or delivering Power over Ethernet (PoE). The twists in each pair reduce interference and crosstalk with other pairs, ensuring reliable performance. These standards ensure compatibility with devices and maintain proper signal transmission. Historically, T568A and T568B evolved from telephone wiring standards (like RJ11) for backward compatibility, particularly in environments transitioning from older systems. Using a consistent standard ensures that the cable works with all equipment. While matching the order at both ends might seem fine, mismatched pairings would disrupt these functions, causing poor performance or complete failure. Standards are there to ensure cables do their job effectively and reliably.
Weird question but will any load bar from let’s say a non shielded rj45 fit in a shielded rj45? I have a cat5e cable that needs repair and I have a cat6 shield rj45 but can’t get the wires in so I’m assuming I need a load bar. Thank you!
You probably have a mismatch on the gauge of the cabling (specified in the AWG number). That's basically the thickness of each of the 8 wires - make sure the cable matches the plug (or load bar) and you'll be fine.
I almost always terminate to a keystone. Use a patch cable from there so it's user serviceable. Only when it's a device like an outdoor IP camera do I terminate to RJ45.
Yes, these will work with CAT6 and CAT5e as well - the only thing you need to check is that the gauge of the wires (look for the AWG number) matches with that of the plugs you buy 👍
. @SwitchedOnNetwork That was my point as I thought Cat7 and Cat6A were 23 gauge wire and that Cat6 and Cat5E were thinner 24 gauge wire and would need a different connector.
I made a length of cat7 cables with RJ45 connectors longer than the recommended max length. Mine is 450 feet. I confirmed the cable was wired correctly using a tester similar to the one in your video, except the "G" does not light up. Is the ground of importance other than for the shielding of the cable? What I'm asking is will the cable still work without it? My computer doesn't recognize any ethernet connection when I plug in using the 450ft cable, even though the tester says both ends match 1 through 8 all green. I thought maybe the wire was kinked or bad, but wire tester confirmed its making a connection on all 8 wires. I tested with a shorter 10ft cable to the router and I get a connection. I understand max length recommend is about 330ft, but at 450 ft should I not be getting any connection at all? I thought only the speed might be compromised not the connection
The shielding is needed to reduce interference, which becomes important at higher speeds. Or with longer lengths. Could be (if your equipment has grounding) that a properly terminated cable with ground could've worked, though it's not guaranteed. Generally it's best to use optics when runs get long
It helps the shield to be more effective by grounding any small currents which might be induced in the wiring. But for that to work, the network switch needs to support it and itself be grounded.
Love how they only show solid and striped, but the ether cable that I have is all solid, White/Orange/Light Green/Dark Blue/Light Blue/Dark green/Purple-ish/Brown.
That's bizarre. Do the colours of the strands that are twisted together correspond in a way that you're able to easily tell them apart at either end ok?
Probably not, but it depends on what you have in your house that might cause interference! In general though, the tighter twisting on CAT6A will almost certainly be sufficient for you.
What people should know is that CAT7 is not a IEEE certified and validated cable. It works fine for sure, but it is not certified. Also, for CAT6A and up shielded/foiled twisted pair cables you have the option to use Hirose connectors and crimping tools. These will crimp the connector while simultaneously crimp the ground wire and strain relief
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➡ Automatic Wire Strippers: geni.us/WireStrippers
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thanks again.. much appreciated
The RJ45 Modular Plugs with Load Bar link is to Punch Down Keystone Jack Adapters instead of what you showed.
Thanks Jim, I'll look into that as it might be geolocating to the wrong item. Which country are you in?.
@@SwitchedOnNetwork USA, Florida to be more specific.
Thanks! It should work properly now.
Simple, easy to understand and no fluff!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful 😊
I was today years old when I discovered that the metal wires from shielded cat6/7 cables serve as grounding. To be fair, it's not been that long since I've joined the industry, but I'm glad I found it now than later.
Don't forget, the shield must be grounded at one end too. Otherwise, it's useless.
@@James_KnottWell noted, thanks!
What the use of ground network cabling?
@@pit3835 Some cables have a shield to reduce interference. To be effective, the shield must be grounded at one point.
lol what an idiot!
Thank you very much for this video!
I bought a Cat 7 cable from a retailer, and their guide was very very bad. It had me spent 2 days trying to figure it out, with their support team not understanding me. Then I saw this video, and it worked first try!
There's just nothing like the feeling of crimping the perfect connector... then looking down and seeing the boot lying separate on the table.
You got my subscription with this video. I feel about running network cable like I feel about doing woodwork. For someone who hates it, I seem to do an awful lot of it.
hahaha 😂😂😂
Yeah it's one of those tasks which isn't particularly fun, but it's necessary and enables/improves a lot of other things!
A proper DOH! moment right there, I feel your pain.
Lmaooooo
IMO the boot is optional, and for the vast majority of cases, I prefer to not have the boot. I've had lots of experience with the boot plastic hardening because of age, and environment, and once hardened it becomes substantially harder to disconnect the cable from the device.
I use to wire up RJ45 plugs before they had the "load bar." You would have to prepare all the wire and then run them up into the plug with nothing but your finger tips holding them into place and give the wires a little side to side twist so they would run up into the slots until they bottomed out at the end and then crimp it.
As an AV tech I love it when the higher-ups demand load bar connectors just because I get paid more, but I have to say I've never had a short problem with pass-throughs. I think the key is good tools, most importantly your flush cutters and the blade on your crimpers. Replacements are sold for most crimpers and maintaining the blade like a good knife will ensure that the cut-off is smooth and short-free. When you look at the end of the completed connector each wire end should look like a little colored donut with a shiny copper dot in the middle-no crushing or smearing of the copper leads into each other. Another cheat I've seen is a small dab of gel CA glue spread over the ends of the wires exposed at the end of the connector. Do this after testing and before insertion, and please let the CA dry before installation or it'll be permanent.
I had the opportunity to have a break-time competition with a guy who had one of those bad-ass testers, and the difference between an EZ connector and a high-end connector, both well installed, is negligible for most AV and non-military applications.
The truth is that these connectors are engineered to avoid interaction between potential short points. If you plug a pass-through into a socket and get a short you really have to evaluate your terminating technique!
I've been using the EZ RJ45 pass-through connectors since they came out. They save me so much valuable time which could easily be wasted with troubleshooting regular RJ45 connectors. To date I haven't had a single short as I use a very high quality crimping tool with auto-trimmer. Will never go back to regular closed end connectors.
A friend of mine gave me a bag of those connectors with that little plastic insert. Those are used for stranded wire. I use the passthrough for solid wire. Just makes it easy to see the colors and then just adjust the wire, cut and pull back for a perfect flush. Try doing that with stranded wire and you'll be pulling your hair. That's how I found what those were for. Plus the bag clearly says that. He just ordered the wrong ones.
Had zero issues with passthrough connectors, been using them since they appeared on the market, any claim about "shorts" is rubbish, I just use quality connectors and a proper crimping tool and get the job done fast and professionally.
We have used passthroughs for several years, done 100s of them, never once had an issue.
Sir, thank you very much. I was re-terminating a outdoor rated Icky-Pick filled patch cable last night and things were just going so fast. I went to go use these new modular RJ45 ends and kept having to redo it because there were no GROOVES like normal lol. Wow I felt DUMB! Now! I feel grateful annnd SMARTER lol.
Thanks ~
That moment your struggling with the inserting the cables, then wanting to buy the passtrough connectors and seeying the wire guides where included in the package, thanks allot this helps!
just installed a big system in the warehouse with about 160 connectrors. Used cheap chinese pliers and pass-throught connectors. Out of all of them all was working except two. One because of security pin broke off, second : because wires were mixed.
They crimped perfectly
IMO modular works great because it's staggered. It allows each cable to have its own chamber so the pin is much less likely to miss the bite into the wire and slip in-between the wire and jacket. They also sell non-modular that are staggered, that's what I use. They shouldn't have enough room to slip to the side, that's why you're not supposed to use CAT5 (24 gauge) in CAT6 (23 gauge (bigger)) connectors. But in the last 5+ years I haven't had a bad connection using non-modular staggered CAT6 with CAT5 😉
I bought staggered connectors once, and hated them (I think I still have them somewhere). With the additional module is nice, but only staggered, I could never find how to get them in the holes. With the linear Cat5e, I would prepare them and tension them against wall while sliding in. But staggered??? And recently I bought passthrough, but did not crimp any yet.
@@mateiberatco500 i mostly use staggered (non modular), that's my go to. But! It took me a LONG time to get used to it and get it just right. They also have staggered passthrough, witch IMO would be the best of all worlds. Staggered let's you get away with using cat5 (thinner wire) with cat6 terminations. So you can just have a bag of Cat6 staggered passthrough for everything, solid, stranded, cat5, thin/thick jacket, and they won't shift to the side and cause the pin to park on the side of the wire vs biting into it.
The nice thing about the pass through connector is that you can thread each strand through one at a time in the right order, and then pull them straight. That way you don't have to do all the straightening and ordering up front, which is in my experience, the time consuming bit when adding a plug. It looks like that would work with modular load bar as well. Have you tried that?
I tried that after reading similar comments on the previous video I put out (this one: th-cam.com/video/NWhoJp8UQpo/w-d-xo.html) but couldn't get them to thread through nicely so went back to the method I showed. Maybe I need to practise more, but grouping them together works for me so I'll probably stick with that. Great that there's another method though, and if it works better for some people then I'm all for that :)
@@SwitchedOnNetwork If the connector of RJ45 can be injection molded into one, it will be better, with guaranteed quality and more beautiful appearance
This is insanely inefficient. Just cut all 8 at an angle and gently guide them in.
@@jodycwilliams Inefficient? For the average person who makes these cables a few times a year, efficiency is irrelevant.
Agree. Pass-through is the best.
Legitimately thank you for this video, I had no clue they made the connectors with a modular load bar. This is an absolute game changer. Definitely getting some of these, my server closet is about to have one heck of a makeover. (also somehow never realized you could buy those little cable stress relievers as a pre-made drop in component for cable making, I always just assumed those were always just injection molded in the factory and required some sort of expensive machine to make, never thought about there being a slip on option for homemade cables)
Glad it was helpful! 😄
Sorry to disappoint but it's Not a cable stress reliever. it only Protects the clip from braking when your pulling it out of your to messy cable management Trey. at home mostly you realy don't need it. the stress Relieve is at the end of your original plug sadly the video dos not mention the cable shielding is seposed to go under it if your doing it richt. Also it is a good idear to strip the cable longer it make arranging the cables easier and your can twist the excess together so they dos fall all over when you cut them later.
I wanted to find how "load bars" are actually named, but had zero idea.
Thanks to you I have found them!
Also, very useful tips and demonstration on how to wire up TP cable!
Thanks for the video!
Missed the part where the wires jump grooves when you slide the bandwidth separator (what my job calls it) down. I would also suggest pushing it down ever so slightly more than you need. This way when you flush cut, you dont risk cutting the separator as well. Then you just slide it to the ends of the wires.
That shouldn't be necessary if you have a good flush cutter tool (like the one I used, and linked in description) and use proper technique. However, it's still a good idea for an alternative technique if that's a problem so thanks! :)
The reason for t-568 having an a and b standard is for when you need crossover cables. The shield is for electromagnetic (EMF) interference. You dont have to bond the shield if you're not running the cable through areas where you're not having to deal with emf interference or you're not trying to use the cable near its maximum speeds.
With FastEthernet (100Mbps) they started introducing auto MDI-X, which means they can detect a crossover cable. So today (at least with Gbit devices), I think you can use a crossover cable (one end A, other end B) with any network device and it will work.
@@mateiberatco500 just looked it up. Apparently most modern devices are equipped with auto mdix and it will set itself according to the auto detect. However, since it's not guaranteed, there may be some instances where a crossover cable will be required. This is typically from network switch to network switch where crossover cables are traditionally required. It's also required if you skip the network switch and do a peer to peer direct connection between computers/consoles.
@@ianbelletti6241 "Traditionally required"... that made me smile.
I used straight cables between PCs during the 100Mbps era. Granted, the cards were marketed as auto-MDI/MDI-X.
Also I have played with a lot of switches (since 100Mbps era), including my 2 new 2.5Gbps and POE-powered switches (5-port POE pass-through). I remember using crossover just for some early 100Mbps switches. Of course, 90% of world products is not 100%.
PS: I see on wikipedia that there are 2 configurations that use the switchable pairs for power. I guess a crossover cable would reverse-polarity the device???
@@mateiberatco500 what happens in standard fixed connections is that you have a transmit pair and a receiving pair in each device. When the two connector wirings match, you need a crossover cable to make sure the transmit pair on one device connects to the receiving pair on the other device. Auto mdix automatically negotiates this by detecting which pair on the device's end is transmit and which is receive and chooses to use the a or b standard on its connector to ensure that the communication can occur. On devices that are not auto mdix, you are expected to know if you are connecting like to like connectors (a to a or b to b) or different connectors (a to b). If it's like to like, you need a crossover cable. If it's different, then you need a standard cable. Traditionally, user end devices had one connector standard and switches used the other. You could connect end user device to switch with a standard cable but direct peer to peer or switch to switch required crossover cables.
@@ianbelletti6241 And my point is that since 1000Gbit switches and cards, I have NOT found a device (cards and motherboards) lacking auto-MDI-X. Which means it really doesn't matter. The example I was thinking: if you need to replace the connector and you're too lazy to check the other end, on the other side of the house. As long as you remember that you stuck with t-568, you don't have to bother which variant (or if the other side is the switch with a mix of A/B wiring and can't easily identify the "victim" cable).
PS: I have not used a crossover cable in years, including Raspberry PI directly to a 10Mbps retro card (the latter which, by the way, does not have audo-MDI-X... a single side is enough).
a cable made with a T568A on one end and a T568B on the other end is known as a crossover, mainly used between devices of the same type, these days MDI-X is supposed to detect what is at the end of the cable and adjust as needed but I still do it the old way as it eliminates something else going wrong, I prefer to use the use the 'razor' on the cutters on the the tool, they make a neater job if you have a good one and saves time and hassle of reaching for a 2nd tool - saves a lot of time when wiring up cabinets with lots of switchports in a neat and tidy fashion. the best way to get good at this is to do a lot of them -
Only good video on youtube that I found for cat 7! Thank You!!!
You're welcome!
Your voice makes me think of Henry Cavil for some reason, is that why this is the only video which actually helps me make cat7 terminations? You're a godsend Henry Cavil of the Ethernetworld
haha thanks!
so cool, iv never done this, i dont have the tools but watching these videos gives me confidence in trying one day.
Go for it! 💪 Everything you need is listed in the description. Once you've done it a few times you'll soon start finding it easy 🙂
@@SwitchedOnNetwork i see these videos are popular i looked on the back of my modem router and noticed an ethernet cable split into two rj11 for the dsl and phone line..have you made one of those? would like to see your version of explanation.
I have only connected a few for home use but without a pass through. To hold the ends I cut a ~8mm strip from an old credit card, fold it and use it to hold the wires in a tight group. Seems to work fairly well but that pass through makes it look much easier.
Thanks! Now I understand the function of that metal part. And that hint about those 12 mm is good also!
Glad it was helpful!
My crimping tool cuts the ends right away, so I always just leave em too long and they go through the end get cut when crimped.
Quite handy.
What do you mean by cat 5 and 6 should be good for 1 gigabit and cat 7 - for 10? I am sure 2.5 and 5 gigabit both work on 5e and 6, and 6 and 6a can carry 10G.
5e will only do 1g. Some 6 will go up to 10g depending on the gauge.
@@paulanderson3898 5e can do 10gig for short distances
I dont even think CAT 7 is even certified yet.
That is the case. There is no purpose for Cat7.
@@0bsmith0 I agree. At those data rates one should be considering fibre.
The connector with load bar is the best, it works with super thin FLAT Rj45 cable, where others did not work!
Maybe this isn't the best place for this comment, but I'll go for it. My company stopped the whole clown show around CAT7 and those ridiculous swiss-watch connectors a couple of years ago when optical baluns hit the market. One fiber line to a managed switch gets it done with even better speed and, check it, no EMF interference! Sheesh we can buy prebuilt cables with baluns pre-installed! And they work GREAT!
Yeah fibre's pretty sweet and it's so cheap nowadays. I put out a video on it recently, but it's not done that well so feel free to go and give it some love ;-) th-cam.com/video/XQjP135ZtcE/w-d-xo.html
I started working in this industry in my early twenties. Back then I would bang out 100 patch cords fully terminated and booted in under an hour. We used a small machine if they were available to crimp the RJ45, otherwise we'd do it with a hand tool which would take longer.
We never made our own patch cables, every project we go to we would take a partitioned box with different sizes of pre-made (stranded) cables.
Then for the runs between rooms, we use solid core cables and terminate them in punch down blocks.
Yeah you'd never bother making your own short patch cables, but for longer custom length runs which *can't* go into a patch panel or a keystone jack, this is how...
Thanks a lot, your video help me a lot to fix a short issue I had with my RJ45 connector with passthru features.
Perfect video and I can see this is the same for Cat 8 as well. thank you!
You're welcome!
I got my house wired up and I had to do something similar with my keystone patch panel. When I was doing the first cable the technician was still around and gave me some advice in which now I'm still pretty sure made me do my first cable end in "A" config. After he left I kept going by learning with a YT video and ended up doing the rest of the cables in "B" config. When I tested all the cables are working seemingly fine, I tested with the network cable tester, all cables + ground light up sequentially on both ends like in this video, but I don't know how the other cable ends are setup. I'm now worried that I might have some crossover cables but my internet is working just fine.
If they light up sequentially on both ends, then they must be the same wiring at each end so you'll have standard patch cables rather than crossovers. If you do have some crossovers, I think some switches and network interfaces are clever enough to detect that and adjust accordingly, so would still work - but don't quote me on that!
In my experience it’s not super necessary to use flush-cutters to cut away the foil shielding for the individual pairs. If you unwrap it and just keep twisting it will give and come right off. Not a huge difference but it helps to know when you don’t have your flush cutters with you that moment.
Good tip, thanks!
No matter what i do how straight i have the wiring, i can never get any of my network cables to work. I'm not sure if i'm cutting the wires to short or they move as i put on the rj-45 connector
I love the load bars. Co workers hate them.
What some people fail to understand is when you use shielded cable, it must be grounded at one end. This means the connector it plugs into must also be shielded. If there is no shielded & grounded connector, then the shield is useless. I have worked with switches that have shielded & grounded connectors and I have also brought out the shield wire to connect it to a ground point. In telecom, where I spent decades of my career, shields and grounds are a big issue.
Also, my understanding is that TIA-568A is preferred, not B. Also, I prefer A because it places the orange wire between the green and blue. With some cables, it's hard to tell the difference between green & blue, so having the orange wire in between means you're less likely to go cross eyed, trying to make sure the plug is wired correctly.
Originally TIA 568A was meant for residential work while TIA 568B was meant for commercial work... TIA 568B has been the dominant choice for all now...
@@MrSupersidewinder Actually, 568A matched the telephone system cabling that had been in use for decades before there was even such a thing a Ethernet. 568B came about with StarLAN, which eventually became 10baseT. It was designed to use the existing 3 pair CAT 3 telephone cables that were commonly used in offices. Since pair 1 (blue) was used for the phone line, the orange & green pairs were used for the LAN. I have never heard of the distinction between residential and commercial work and my telecom background goes back 50 years and first LAN work in 1978. I also got my CCNA several years ago.
Yeah I'm pretty sure there's zero distinction in this regard between residential and commercial (but happy to be corrected if I'm wrong!)
The only thing I've ever heard about the difference between A and B (and this is purely rumor and hearsay) is that A is more common in Australia, but B is used everywhere else, unless a sparky did the wiring job.
@@catatonicbug7522 A is more common in Canada too. However, it makes no difference which one you use, so long as you're consistent.
Great informative video, very interesting. I like the modular plug design, makes it really easy to make a cable. I also like the cable tester.
Glad it was helpful!
I would recommend having gloves for cat7 if you are terminating a bunch like I did years ago 240 pulls hands were cut up after all the terminations.
Yeah, good tip! Always good to protect your hands if you're doing a lot of work.
Very nice, very detailed one, truly loved it
I was struggling today crimping cat 6 using the insert, I finally end up using cat5e RJ45 connector, much easier.
It sounds like the gauge (thickness) of the wires might not have matched the plugs. Check the AWG number on both is the same. Hope that helps!
I don't run cables full time - I'm a systems admin. But I've crimped at least hundreds and probably over a thousand cables using the old way, enough that I haven't had to look at a wiring diagram in more than a decade. I've crimped enough that it was very rare for me to have to re-crimp a termination. At first I was skeptical of passthrough RJ45 plugs. No longer. They are superior - easier to use and you know if the pinout is correct before you crimp. I have given away my old crimpers and ends.
I've terminated hundreds of passthrough RJ45's without a single failure. Genuinely didn't know people think there's a risk of shorting with them. This seems rather convoluted, but perhaps required when working with complex shielded connectors.
Me too! I've never had an issue with them myself, but the comments section of the video tutorial on pass through plugs was so rife with arguments about shorts that I thought a video on these would be a good shout 😄
got a vid going into the downsides of the different plugs in more detail? like how does the passthrough short out?
5:18 I found if there is a wire issue part way along the drop, the wire tester may show all 8 lighting but the end point may only negotiate at 100M. Dealing with this at a clients office right now.
Great educational video! However, in real life, I would prefer using a Pass-Through RJ45 connector because it’s quicker and simpler to use. In the video, you used separate tools for each step, like one tool for stripping the cable and another for cutting it. It would be a real pain in the a** to carry so many tools on-site, especially when I’m on a ladder or working in a cramped storage room with a wall-mounted rack.
Can I splice fiber at home too? I want to move my ISP modem to the attic but I'm afraid I'll pull off the plug at the end of the fiber as I withdraw it through the in-wall tubing. So, I'd like to know that I can repair a broken fiber if necessary. Thank you.
You can in theory, but you'd require the tools and expertise to do that - neither of which I have! 🤣
Just done my first Cat6a thanks!
Good work!
The worst part about finding the correct plug is that there are too many CAT6 and CAT6A cable types (gauges). I had to go through several modular RJ45 connector brands/types to find the correct one (many manufacturers don't specify cable/plug gauge). I also have probably around 5 types of UTP/STP cables around house for some reason. Weirdly enough CAT5e (non-modular) plugs seem to be the most flexible and work even with CAT6A cables.
I often find cables moving to the side in the modular plugs after crimping even though everything looked fine before crimping. Wish there were connectors with metallic load bars instead of the cheap plastic ones.
Yeah it's always important to match the gauge of the cable to that of the plug - I was doing an installation once where another contractor had supplied the cable but I ended up having to put some of my own plugs on and it turned out his wire was thicker and it was a nightmare until we got the right ends!
Metal might cause an impedance bump.
@@James_Knott Yeah, I guess it could also short easily. What about punch-in RJ45 male plugs? :D
Yeah I'd avoid metal - I don't know if they even exist?
I've been making cables for over a decade and never had an issue with the pass through ends. They are what everyone should use imo. Furthermore, 99.99999% of people don't need cat7 (or anything over 6a). Cat 6 is sufficient for nearly all uses, hell, even cat5e. Unless you're running 10 gigabit, 5e is fine, unless you're running over fluorescent lights or some crazy EMI. "Future proofing" cable is dumb. 20+ year old cat5e still exceeds almost all workloads. You can run 20 simultaneous 4k streams on a single cat5e cable. Don't buy into the cable salesman's hype, it just extra money and difficulty for zero benefit in 99% of cases.
Agree, more often than not, is more important the conector rather than the cable. Not saying you need expensive ones, just a decent quality (for some years i had cheap ones and it was difficult to work on them, almost never crimped well, and didnt latch to the cable, the little plastic always broke)
👍
Thanks very much for sharing your experience with us. It will save me wasting money needlessly 👍🏼
I've tried 3 hours to correctly set those modulars connectors and they were always switching positions at the end of the connector. I went and bought regular connectors and it was perfect in 5mins.
Nice. I purchased a big Belkin Cat 5e kit at a garage sale some time ago. I’m not sure how many feet of cable it has...
Why do you cut the inner shielding foil instead of twisting it ad folding it back along the braiding?
You could do that too if you want all those to be grounded as well 👍
Hello, I got a question about the automatic wire stripper. Can he also strip fiber optics cable since they're much more fragile?
I've never tried it, but I wouldn't think so - no.
I mean.... Make the wire about 3" long instead of how short they are in the beginning. Straighten them out and then cut straight across while holding the wires flat. Allows you to have room to hold the wires in place while shoving them through the connector. Makes it WAY EASIER.
Is it possible for a LAN cable to pass a continuity test (the 1-8 thing), but still carry problems? We're getting 200 MBPS from our 8 port switch. But when connected to a router via lan cable, its dropping to 8MBPS. But the lan cable seems crimped perfectly and passes the continuity test?!
I have a question though: wouldn’t it be better to strip away the outer jacket and crimp that strain relief to that instead of peeling back and twisting the braided shielding? I feel like that would give a better mechanical connection for both the strain relief and the shielding, as it’s clamping down on a more ‘regular’ surface, less chance of a gap or looser connection.
At my work the solid green and blue trade places all others are the same. The jacks are wired with the B . I done a few cross overs but not many. I need to ask where the cross overs were used I don't remember. 73
Crossover cables are used for connecting one PC to another without going through a switch. The switch has logic that converts the streams, but regular NICs don't. Tech is improving, so this is less of an issue now than it once was.
@@catatonicbug7522 yeah my zona switch will take all configurations and convert them. The green and blue trade is not a crossover. It's our standard hook up. I don't know why we have to have all these other hook ups. I.never used the crossover for two computers the network does it all without removing computers from their locations. Our IS person can remote from the old building and make changes on my computer. There is some setup required which I know nothing about. My job is to repair jacks and network cables when problems arise. The IS person is disabled and has a hard time walking between buildings. If he needs to have the computer at his station I bring it to him. We just got fiber for our building from the. Road. I don't know if the old fiber optic cable between buildings is still used I guess for backup it may be. 73
I tryed the crimper tool suggested in the comments and it didn't work with CAT7 cables. On the box of the product I received from Amazon, it didn't say CAT7. Only CAT3/CAT5/CAT6. That might explain why the crimper doesn't work with CAT7 cable. Am I right of did I do something wrong?
Is this the Klein one?
@@SwitchedOnNetwork I followed all the steps you suggest. Did I do something wrong or I simply didn't have the right tool ? I'll receive the new tool today and I'll find out soon.
I have used the passthrough type just because there is no metal in the back of my sockets to short things out. They are very easy to use.
It's moisture that people are most worried about I think, especially in PoE applications. But of course, if moisture is a possibility or concern then "using closed instead of passthrough plugs" shouldn't be the solution, using a proper waterproofing boot should be the minimum they'd do! (For an interesting read, take a look at the comments section of the passthrough plugs video on my channel! 🤣)
@@SwitchedOnNetwork Sounds like one of those "It's not popular, because idiots blame it for their ignorance" situations. 🤔😂
I haven't heard of a loading bar and it appears to be an extra step I don't need. I use pass-through connectors and once I slide the wires into place, I check the color coding to ensure nothing got twisted or mixed up. Once I crimp down, the excess wire is cut flush to the end of the connector and its ready to go. All the other steps you did are the same for me.
Yeah these are kind of a best of both worlds between standard and passthrough as these have closed ends when completed, so if that's required it ticks that box.
Why is there a difference between a Cat 5e and Cat 6 plug? Is it the copper used for the contacts?
The cores are different sizes, Cat5e typically has a core size of 24 AWG vs Cat6 is typically 23 AWG, so cat 6 is slightly thicker.
what is the actual risk of shorts from pass through? and what would that short do?
Solid wires are for magistral lines with patch-panels, outlets ending.
Thank you for this video!!! Very clean and well instructed
My pleasure! I'm glad you found it useful. Happy crimping!
my cables always look ghetto because the wire is usually sticking out of the bottom of the connector because i leave too much slack and don't cut it off. I also don't straiten the wires all the way, so it sometimes takes a few tries to get the wires to stay, and not bend. This is all with standard, non-passthrough connectors, and 23 AWG wire.
Q. i ve done it all prefect .... as on this vid ... pt i have a problem which is my internet speed is now 90 MB only instead of 2000 MB ? any help ? PLS
If all 8 contacts are good and there's nothing causing interference I'd try disconnecting the shielding at one end - depending on your setup/equipment it might only want shielding at one end. Let me know how you get on!
@@SwitchedOnNetwork THXXX
Got the cable tester and it says cable is good, but Cat6 won’t negotiate correctly. I assume on non shielded cables it’ll be an interference issue rather than cable break?
I need to Earth my wall cabinet to some copper pipe.
For it not to negotiate at all, I'd assume it's something other than interference (unless you have some major, major interference going on!) Are you able to test the cable elsewhere, or test the connection between devices with a different cable (move devices closer and use a known-working patch lead) to either rule out or in the cable you've just made up?
Let me know how you get on! 🤞🤞
@@SwitchedOnNetwork it comes up if I pin the speed down on the switch to 100 FDXz
Not ideally, but worst case I’ll have to do another pull / reterminate
Cable tester lights pass as expected. Asked a few friends / colleagues if they had a fluke I could borrow.
Excel and FS keystone etc
Hmm, strange. Is it a switch on both ends of the cable run?
Tested both switched and server and need to pin port on switch for it to come up, but won’t come up at 1Gb
Worked at SSE years ago where we pinned both sides, pain in the arse when either team fluffs their config.
I’ve had to pin Nexus 9k SFP28 as they don’t auto negotiate. This however is a “simple” cat 6 run to a patch panel and then patch to a device.
I think it's a crosstalk issue.
Thank you, it's really really helpful
Cool idea, I just did my first RJ45 connector and it could have been easier!
Very helpful and very well explained. Thanks. 🙏🏻👏
Thank you!
Will my regular Ethernet crimping tool work on these ends to crimp the end on? Or is the crimping tool designed different for these ends?
My regular tool is for passthrough.
Well I already been doing this for year's but never know that braided shielding was a ground wire. I always cut it off as I think it wasn't important..😅 guess I learn new things and do it properly.. gotta change my current cable right now..🙂
ha, glad you learnt something! Bear in mind, that's only relevant if the switch it's plugged into provides grounding for it to connect to - otherwise it's pointless. So you might not gain anything by changing just your cable.
@@SwitchedOnNetwork I see so not all port connection have grounding only some of them.. anyway looking forward to your other video.. I just found your channel recently and I’m interest on it already.. just sub for you and hope you can keep continuing on what you do. 🙂👍
Thanks for the sub! Glad you're enjoying the channel, a few more networking related videos for the coming year hopefully 🤞
I got a weird load bar it's 3 groups of 2 and 2 groups of 1
So, only the greens fit in the 1 group and the other in the 2 groups I think
i did the cables and they work but i made my own wiring squence.. does this affect speed or not ?
It might do, depending on which ones and what interference you might have locally. If it works fine, then I'd be tempted to leave if but if you do have issues (of it it's not just something at your own home) then I'd chop off and redo properly - there's a reason why each one goes where it does.
i wonder since we have switch does straight and crossover cable really matter?
Yeah you hardly ever see crossover cables these days!
Very brief demonstration. Thank you. How about the tool you use to squeeze the jack? Which one do you recommend best?
Purchasing links in the video description 👍
very neat and clear. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed! 😄
I failed with the crimping, could it be that some connectors are not compatible with solid wires? Or that some crimping tools are just shit?
Some tools are, yes - make sure you buy good quality ones (like the ones I linked to).
@@SwitchedOnNetwork I borrowed it from an electrician so I feel like it should work for him atleast... my theory is solid wires was the problem.
Posteno i strucno objasnjeno
Hvala
Hvala, drago mi je da ste uživali u videu!
Wait why cant i use stripped orange orange stripped green green stripped purple purple ans stripped brown and brown ... The wires are anyway commected in the correct order on both sides ..
When wiring RJ45 plugs, you must use the T568A or T568B standards because each pair of wires is specifically twisted to perform a distinct function, such as sending/receiving data or delivering Power over Ethernet (PoE). The twists in each pair reduce interference and crosstalk with other pairs, ensuring reliable performance. These standards ensure compatibility with devices and maintain proper signal transmission.
Historically, T568A and T568B evolved from telephone wiring standards (like RJ11) for backward compatibility, particularly in environments transitioning from older systems. Using a consistent standard ensures that the cable works with all equipment. While matching the order at both ends might seem fine, mismatched pairings would disrupt these functions, causing poor performance or complete failure. Standards are there to ensure cables do their job effectively and reliably.
I have a cable tester that makes all lights glow if it is correct.
Yeah different ones display results differently. That's fine 👍
Weird question but will any load bar from let’s say a non shielded rj45 fit in a shielded rj45? I have a cat5e cable that needs repair and I have a cat6 shield rj45 but can’t get the wires in so I’m assuming I need a load bar. Thank you!
You probably have a mismatch on the gauge of the cabling (specified in the AWG number). That's basically the thickness of each of the 8 wires - make sure the cable matches the plug (or load bar) and you'll be fine.
REALLY nice explanation, great job
Thank you!
Thanks for your valuable information
I almost always terminate to a keystone. Use a patch cable from there so it's user serviceable. Only when it's a device like an outdoor IP camera do I terminate to RJ45.
Yep, that's standard.
This video was for creating a patch cable. Custom length patch cables keep racks neat and clean.
Do they make the same load bar connectors for older Cat5E wire and if so where can they be purchased?
Yes, these will work with CAT6 and CAT5e as well - the only thing you need to check is that the gauge of the wires (look for the AWG number) matches with that of the plugs you buy 👍
. @SwitchedOnNetwork That was my point as I thought Cat7 and Cat6A were 23 gauge wire and that Cat6 and Cat5E were thinner 24 gauge wire and would need a different connector.
I made a length of cat7 cables with RJ45 connectors longer than the recommended max length. Mine is 450 feet. I confirmed the cable was wired correctly using a tester similar to the one in your video, except the "G" does not light up. Is the ground of importance other than for the shielding of the cable? What I'm asking is will the cable still work without it?
My computer doesn't recognize any ethernet connection when I plug in using the 450ft cable, even though the tester says both ends match 1 through 8 all green. I thought maybe the wire was kinked or bad, but wire tester confirmed its making a connection on all 8 wires. I tested with a shorter 10ft cable to the router and I get a connection. I understand max length recommend is about 330ft, but at 450 ft should I not be getting any connection at all? I thought only the speed might be compromised not the connection
Your computer's NIC (and/or that of the other device) might not be powerful enough to send a signal down that long a length of cable.
The shielding is needed to reduce interference, which becomes important at higher speeds. Or with longer lengths. Could be (if your equipment has grounding) that a properly terminated cable with ground could've worked, though it's not guaranteed. Generally it's best to use optics when runs get long
i see the load bar sitting inside the connector head? how did u even remove it?
You don't - it stays in situ.
es compatible con los conectores apantallados rj45 cat6a?, ya que veo que el cable es mas grueso cuando es categoría 7/7a
Sí, son compatibles :)
Great video, easy to understand, thank you :)
wow. whats the use of ground? is that important? is that use to prevent current leakage?
It helps the shield to be more effective by grounding any small currents which might be induced in the wiring. But for that to work, the network switch needs to support it and itself be grounded.
My fingers & Crimping Tools are enough to do this
Love how they only show solid and striped, but the ether cable that I have is all solid, White/Orange/Light Green/Dark Blue/Light Blue/Dark green/Purple-ish/Brown.
That's bizarre. Do the colours of the strands that are twisted together correspond in a way that you're able to easily tell them apart at either end ok?
That's a crazy color combination. Definitely not standard.
Can I use this rj45 on cat 6 cable
Absolutely, yes!
If im in my home do I really need the shielding?
Probably not, but it depends on what you have in your house that might cause interference! In general though, the tighter twisting on CAT6A will almost certainly be sufficient for you.
One of the most perfect educational videos i have ever seen. Damn you good :D
That's very kind of you to say, thank you!
tech tip, fill the strain relief with hot glue and the connector would be much more rugged.
Thanks man
You're welcome! Hope it's helpful :)
@0:30 you are measuring 4cm with the tape measure, but you are saying “4 cm”…… which is the correct length to strip please?
Great demonstration.
What people should know is that CAT7 is not a IEEE certified and validated cable. It works fine for sure, but it is not certified. Also, for CAT6A and up shielded/foiled twisted pair cables you have the option to use Hirose connectors and crimping tools. These will crimp the connector while simultaneously crimp the ground wire and strain relief