There's just nothing like the feeling of crimping the perfect connector... then looking down and seeing the boot lying separate on the table. You got my subscription with this video. I feel about running network cable like I feel about doing woodwork. For someone who hates it, I seem to do an awful lot of it.
IMO the boot is optional, and for the vast majority of cases, I prefer to not have the boot. I've had lots of experience with the boot plastic hardening because of age, and environment, and once hardened it becomes substantially harder to disconnect the cable from the device.
Thank you very much for this video! I bought a Cat 7 cable from a retailer, and their guide was very very bad. It had me spent 2 days trying to figure it out, with their support team not understanding me. Then I saw this video, and it worked first try!
I was today years old when I discovered that the metal wires from shielded cat6/7 cables serve as grounding. To be fair, it's not been that long since I've joined the industry, but I'm glad I found it now than later.
I use to wire up RJ45 plugs before they had the "load bar." You would have to prepare all the wire and then run them up into the plug with nothing but your finger tips holding them into place and give the wires a little side to side twist so they would run up into the slots until they bottomed out at the end and then crimp it.
I've been using the EZ RJ45 pass-through connectors since they came out. They save me so much valuable time which could easily be wasted with troubleshooting regular RJ45 connectors. To date I haven't had a single short as I use a very high quality crimping tool with auto-trimmer. Will never go back to regular closed end connectors.
As an AV tech I love it when the higher-ups demand load bar connectors just because I get paid more, but I have to say I've never had a short problem with pass-throughs. I think the key is good tools, most importantly your flush cutters and the blade on your crimpers. Replacements are sold for most crimpers and maintaining the blade like a good knife will ensure that the cut-off is smooth and short-free. When you look at the end of the completed connector each wire end should look like a little colored donut with a shiny copper dot in the middle-no crushing or smearing of the copper leads into each other. Another cheat I've seen is a small dab of gel CA glue spread over the ends of the wires exposed at the end of the connector. Do this after testing and before insertion, and please let the CA dry before installation or it'll be permanent. I had the opportunity to have a break-time competition with a guy who had one of those bad-ass testers, and the difference between an EZ connector and a high-end connector, both well installed, is negligible for most AV and non-military applications. The truth is that these connectors are engineered to avoid interaction between potential short points. If you plug a pass-through into a socket and get a short you really have to evaluate your terminating technique!
A friend of mine gave me a bag of those connectors with that little plastic insert. Those are used for stranded wire. I use the passthrough for solid wire. Just makes it easy to see the colors and then just adjust the wire, cut and pull back for a perfect flush. Try doing that with stranded wire and you'll be pulling your hair. That's how I found what those were for. Plus the bag clearly says that. He just ordered the wrong ones.
Sir, thank you very much. I was re-terminating a outdoor rated Icky-Pick filled patch cable last night and things were just going so fast. I went to go use these new modular RJ45 ends and kept having to redo it because there were no GROOVES like normal lol. Wow I felt DUMB! Now! I feel grateful annnd SMARTER lol. Thanks ~
Had zero issues with passthrough connectors, been using them since they appeared on the market, any claim about "shorts" is rubbish, I just use quality connectors and a proper crimping tool and get the job done fast and professionally.
Legitimately thank you for this video, I had no clue they made the connectors with a modular load bar. This is an absolute game changer. Definitely getting some of these, my server closet is about to have one heck of a makeover. (also somehow never realized you could buy those little cable stress relievers as a pre-made drop in component for cable making, I always just assumed those were always just injection molded in the factory and required some sort of expensive machine to make, never thought about there being a slip on option for homemade cables)
Sorry to disappoint but it's Not a cable stress reliever. it only Protects the clip from braking when your pulling it out of your to messy cable management Trey. at home mostly you realy don't need it. the stress Relieve is at the end of your original plug sadly the video dos not mention the cable shielding is seposed to go under it if your doing it richt. Also it is a good idear to strip the cable longer it make arranging the cables easier and your can twist the excess together so they dos fall all over when you cut them later.
That moment your struggling with the inserting the cables, then wanting to buy the passtrough connectors and seeying the wire guides where included in the package, thanks allot this helps!
@@SwitchedOnNetwork i see these videos are popular i looked on the back of my modem router and noticed an ethernet cable split into two rj11 for the dsl and phone line..have you made one of those? would like to see your version of explanation.
The nice thing about the pass through connector is that you can thread each strand through one at a time in the right order, and then pull them straight. That way you don't have to do all the straightening and ordering up front, which is in my experience, the time consuming bit when adding a plug. It looks like that would work with modular load bar as well. Have you tried that?
I tried that after reading similar comments on the previous video I put out (this one: th-cam.com/video/NWhoJp8UQpo/w-d-xo.html) but couldn't get them to thread through nicely so went back to the method I showed. Maybe I need to practise more, but grouping them together works for me so I'll probably stick with that. Great that there's another method though, and if it works better for some people then I'm all for that :)
@@SwitchedOnNetwork If the connector of RJ45 can be injection molded into one, it will be better, with guaranteed quality and more beautiful appearance
IMO modular works great because it's staggered. It allows each cable to have its own chamber so the pin is much less likely to miss the bite into the wire and slip in-between the wire and jacket. They also sell non-modular that are staggered, that's what I use. They shouldn't have enough room to slip to the side, that's why you're not supposed to use CAT5 (24 gauge) in CAT6 (23 gauge (bigger)) connectors. But in the last 5+ years I haven't had a bad connection using non-modular staggered CAT6 with CAT5 😉
I bought staggered connectors once, and hated them (I think I still have them somewhere). With the additional module is nice, but only staggered, I could never find how to get them in the holes. With the linear Cat5e, I would prepare them and tension them against wall while sliding in. But staggered??? And recently I bought passthrough, but did not crimp any yet.
@@mateiberatco500 i mostly use staggered (non modular), that's my go to. But! It took me a LONG time to get used to it and get it just right. They also have staggered passthrough, witch IMO would be the best of all worlds. Staggered let's you get away with using cat5 (thinner wire) with cat6 terminations. So you can just have a bag of Cat6 staggered passthrough for everything, solid, stranded, cat5, thin/thick jacket, and they won't shift to the side and cause the pin to park on the side of the wire vs biting into it.
Your voice makes me think of Henry Cavil for some reason, is that why this is the only video which actually helps me make cat7 terminations? You're a godsend Henry Cavil of the Ethernetworld
just installed a big system in the warehouse with about 160 connectrors. Used cheap chinese pliers and pass-throught connectors. Out of all of them all was working except two. One because of security pin broke off, second : because wires were mixed. They crimped perfectly
I wanted to find how "load bars" are actually named, but had zero idea. Thanks to you I have found them! Also, very useful tips and demonstration on how to wire up TP cable! Thanks for the video!
I have only connected a few for home use but without a pass through. To hold the ends I cut a ~8mm strip from an old credit card, fold it and use it to hold the wires in a tight group. Seems to work fairly well but that pass through makes it look much easier.
The reason for t-568 having an a and b standard is for when you need crossover cables. The shield is for electromagnetic (EMF) interference. You dont have to bond the shield if you're not running the cable through areas where you're not having to deal with emf interference or you're not trying to use the cable near its maximum speeds.
With FastEthernet (100Mbps) they started introducing auto MDI-X, which means they can detect a crossover cable. So today (at least with Gbit devices), I think you can use a crossover cable (one end A, other end B) with any network device and it will work.
@@mateiberatco500 just looked it up. Apparently most modern devices are equipped with auto mdix and it will set itself according to the auto detect. However, since it's not guaranteed, there may be some instances where a crossover cable will be required. This is typically from network switch to network switch where crossover cables are traditionally required. It's also required if you skip the network switch and do a peer to peer direct connection between computers/consoles.
@@ianbelletti6241 "Traditionally required"... that made me smile. I used straight cables between PCs during the 100Mbps era. Granted, the cards were marketed as auto-MDI/MDI-X. Also I have played with a lot of switches (since 100Mbps era), including my 2 new 2.5Gbps and POE-powered switches (5-port POE pass-through). I remember using crossover just for some early 100Mbps switches. Of course, 90% of world products is not 100%. PS: I see on wikipedia that there are 2 configurations that use the switchable pairs for power. I guess a crossover cable would reverse-polarity the device???
@@mateiberatco500 what happens in standard fixed connections is that you have a transmit pair and a receiving pair in each device. When the two connector wirings match, you need a crossover cable to make sure the transmit pair on one device connects to the receiving pair on the other device. Auto mdix automatically negotiates this by detecting which pair on the device's end is transmit and which is receive and chooses to use the a or b standard on its connector to ensure that the communication can occur. On devices that are not auto mdix, you are expected to know if you are connecting like to like connectors (a to a or b to b) or different connectors (a to b). If it's like to like, you need a crossover cable. If it's different, then you need a standard cable. Traditionally, user end devices had one connector standard and switches used the other. You could connect end user device to switch with a standard cable but direct peer to peer or switch to switch required crossover cables.
@@ianbelletti6241 And my point is that since 1000Gbit switches and cards, I have NOT found a device (cards and motherboards) lacking auto-MDI-X. Which means it really doesn't matter. The example I was thinking: if you need to replace the connector and you're too lazy to check the other end, on the other side of the house. As long as you remember that you stuck with t-568, you don't have to bother which variant (or if the other side is the switch with a mix of A/B wiring and can't easily identify the "victim" cable). PS: I have not used a crossover cable in years, including Raspberry PI directly to a 10Mbps retro card (the latter which, by the way, does not have audo-MDI-X... a single side is enough).
a cable made with a T568A on one end and a T568B on the other end is known as a crossover, mainly used between devices of the same type, these days MDI-X is supposed to detect what is at the end of the cable and adjust as needed but I still do it the old way as it eliminates something else going wrong, I prefer to use the use the 'razor' on the cutters on the the tool, they make a neater job if you have a good one and saves time and hassle of reaching for a 2nd tool - saves a lot of time when wiring up cabinets with lots of switchports in a neat and tidy fashion. the best way to get good at this is to do a lot of them -
5:18 I found if there is a wire issue part way along the drop, the wire tester may show all 8 lighting but the end point may only negotiate at 100M. Dealing with this at a clients office right now.
Missed the part where the wires jump grooves when you slide the bandwidth separator (what my job calls it) down. I would also suggest pushing it down ever so slightly more than you need. This way when you flush cut, you dont risk cutting the separator as well. Then you just slide it to the ends of the wires.
That shouldn't be necessary if you have a good flush cutter tool (like the one I used, and linked in description) and use proper technique. However, it's still a good idea for an alternative technique if that's a problem so thanks! :)
Maybe this isn't the best place for this comment, but I'll go for it. My company stopped the whole clown show around CAT7 and those ridiculous swiss-watch connectors a couple of years ago when optical baluns hit the market. One fiber line to a managed switch gets it done with even better speed and, check it, no EMF interference! Sheesh we can buy prebuilt cables with baluns pre-installed! And they work GREAT!
Yeah fibre's pretty sweet and it's so cheap nowadays. I put out a video on it recently, but it's not done that well so feel free to go and give it some love ;-) th-cam.com/video/XQjP135ZtcE/w-d-xo.html
In my experience it’s not super necessary to use flush-cutters to cut away the foil shielding for the individual pairs. If you unwrap it and just keep twisting it will give and come right off. Not a huge difference but it helps to know when you don’t have your flush cutters with you that moment.
I got my house wired up and I had to do something similar with my keystone patch panel. When I was doing the first cable the technician was still around and gave me some advice in which now I'm still pretty sure made me do my first cable end in "A" config. After he left I kept going by learning with a YT video and ended up doing the rest of the cables in "B" config. When I tested all the cables are working seemingly fine, I tested with the network cable tester, all cables + ground light up sequentially on both ends like in this video, but I don't know how the other cable ends are setup. I'm now worried that I might have some crossover cables but my internet is working just fine.
If they light up sequentially on both ends, then they must be the same wiring at each end so you'll have standard patch cables rather than crossovers. If you do have some crossovers, I think some switches and network interfaces are clever enough to detect that and adjust accordingly, so would still work - but don't quote me on that!
What do you mean by cat 5 and 6 should be good for 1 gigabit and cat 7 - for 10? I am sure 2.5 and 5 gigabit both work on 5e and 6, and 6 and 6a can carry 10G.
I started working in this industry in my early twenties. Back then I would bang out 100 patch cords fully terminated and booted in under an hour. We used a small machine if they were available to crimp the RJ45, otherwise we'd do it with a hand tool which would take longer.
We never made our own patch cables, every project we go to we would take a partitioned box with different sizes of pre-made (stranded) cables. Then for the runs between rooms, we use solid core cables and terminate them in punch down blocks.
Yeah you'd never bother making your own short patch cables, but for longer custom length runs which *can't* go into a patch panel or a keystone jack, this is how...
What some people fail to understand is when you use shielded cable, it must be grounded at one end. This means the connector it plugs into must also be shielded. If there is no shielded & grounded connector, then the shield is useless. I have worked with switches that have shielded & grounded connectors and I have also brought out the shield wire to connect it to a ground point. In telecom, where I spent decades of my career, shields and grounds are a big issue. Also, my understanding is that TIA-568A is preferred, not B. Also, I prefer A because it places the orange wire between the green and blue. With some cables, it's hard to tell the difference between green & blue, so having the orange wire in between means you're less likely to go cross eyed, trying to make sure the plug is wired correctly.
Originally TIA 568A was meant for residential work while TIA 568B was meant for commercial work... TIA 568B has been the dominant choice for all now...
@@MrSupersidewinder Actually, 568A matched the telephone system cabling that had been in use for decades before there was even such a thing a Ethernet. 568B came about with StarLAN, which eventually became 10baseT. It was designed to use the existing 3 pair CAT 3 telephone cables that were commonly used in offices. Since pair 1 (blue) was used for the phone line, the orange & green pairs were used for the LAN. I have never heard of the distinction between residential and commercial work and my telecom background goes back 50 years and first LAN work in 1978. I also got my CCNA several years ago.
The only thing I've ever heard about the difference between A and B (and this is purely rumor and hearsay) is that A is more common in Australia, but B is used everywhere else, unless a sparky did the wiring job.
The worst part about finding the correct plug is that there are too many CAT6 and CAT6A cable types (gauges). I had to go through several modular RJ45 connector brands/types to find the correct one (many manufacturers don't specify cable/plug gauge). I also have probably around 5 types of UTP/STP cables around house for some reason. Weirdly enough CAT5e (non-modular) plugs seem to be the most flexible and work even with CAT6A cables. I often find cables moving to the side in the modular plugs after crimping even though everything looked fine before crimping. Wish there were connectors with metallic load bars instead of the cheap plastic ones.
Yeah it's always important to match the gauge of the cable to that of the plug - I was doing an installation once where another contractor had supplied the cable but I ended up having to put some of my own plugs on and it turned out his wire was thicker and it was a nightmare until we got the right ends!
Well I already been doing this for year's but never know that braided shielding was a ground wire. I always cut it off as I think it wasn't important..😅 guess I learn new things and do it properly.. gotta change my current cable right now..🙂
ha, glad you learnt something! Bear in mind, that's only relevant if the switch it's plugged into provides grounding for it to connect to - otherwise it's pointless. So you might not gain anything by changing just your cable.
@@SwitchedOnNetwork I see so not all port connection have grounding only some of them.. anyway looking forward to your other video.. I just found your channel recently and I’m interest on it already.. just sub for you and hope you can keep continuing on what you do. 🙂👍
It's moisture that people are most worried about I think, especially in PoE applications. But of course, if moisture is a possibility or concern then "using closed instead of passthrough plugs" shouldn't be the solution, using a proper waterproofing boot should be the minimum they'd do! (For an interesting read, take a look at the comments section of the passthrough plugs video on my channel! 🤣)
I've terminated hundreds of passthrough RJ45's without a single failure. Genuinely didn't know people think there's a risk of shorting with them. This seems rather convoluted, but perhaps required when working with complex shielded connectors.
Me too! I've never had an issue with them myself, but the comments section of the video tutorial on pass through plugs was so rife with arguments about shorts that I thought a video on these would be a good shout 😄
5:45 on this type of cable tester only the smaller part will tell you that wires are in incorrect order, the larger one can only tell whether you have a missing wire.
I haven't heard of a loading bar and it appears to be an extra step I don't need. I use pass-through connectors and once I slide the wires into place, I check the color coding to ensure nothing got twisted or mixed up. Once I crimp down, the excess wire is cut flush to the end of the connector and its ready to go. All the other steps you did are the same for me.
Yeah these are kind of a best of both worlds between standard and passthrough as these have closed ends when completed, so if that's required it ticks that box.
I almost always terminate to a keystone. Use a patch cable from there so it's user serviceable. Only when it's a device like an outdoor IP camera do I terminate to RJ45.
I don't run cables full time - I'm a systems admin. But I've crimped at least hundreds and probably over a thousand cables using the old way, enough that I haven't had to look at a wiring diagram in more than a decade. I've crimped enough that it was very rare for me to have to re-crimp a termination. At first I was skeptical of passthrough RJ45 plugs. No longer. They are superior - easier to use and you know if the pinout is correct before you crimp. I have given away my old crimpers and ends.
my cables always look ghetto because the wire is usually sticking out of the bottom of the connector because i leave too much slack and don't cut it off. I also don't straiten the wires all the way, so it sometimes takes a few tries to get the wires to stay, and not bend. This is all with standard, non-passthrough connectors, and 23 AWG wire.
Great educational video! However, in real life, I would prefer using a Pass-Through RJ45 connector because it’s quicker and simpler to use. In the video, you used separate tools for each step, like one tool for stripping the cable and another for cutting it. It would be a real pain in the a** to carry so many tools on-site, especially when I’m on a ladder or working in a cramped storage room with a wall-mounted rack.
I have a question though: wouldn’t it be better to strip away the outer jacket and crimp that strain relief to that instead of peeling back and twisting the braided shielding? I feel like that would give a better mechanical connection for both the strain relief and the shielding, as it’s clamping down on a more ‘regular’ surface, less chance of a gap or looser connection.
I've been making cables for over a decade and never had an issue with the pass through ends. They are what everyone should use imo. Furthermore, 99.99999% of people don't need cat7 (or anything over 6a). Cat 6 is sufficient for nearly all uses, hell, even cat5e. Unless you're running 10 gigabit, 5e is fine, unless you're running over fluorescent lights or some crazy EMI. "Future proofing" cable is dumb. 20+ year old cat5e still exceeds almost all workloads. You can run 20 simultaneous 4k streams on a single cat5e cable. Don't buy into the cable salesman's hype, it just extra money and difficulty for zero benefit in 99% of cases.
Agree, more often than not, is more important the conector rather than the cable. Not saying you need expensive ones, just a decent quality (for some years i had cheap ones and it was difficult to work on them, almost never crimped well, and didnt latch to the cable, the little plastic always broke)
I've tried 3 hours to correctly set those modulars connectors and they were always switching positions at the end of the connector. I went and bought regular connectors and it was perfect in 5mins.
I mean.... Make the wire about 3" long instead of how short they are in the beginning. Straighten them out and then cut straight across while holding the wires flat. Allows you to have room to hold the wires in place while shoving them through the connector. Makes it WAY EASIER.
At my work the solid green and blue trade places all others are the same. The jacks are wired with the B . I done a few cross overs but not many. I need to ask where the cross overs were used I don't remember. 73
Crossover cables are used for connecting one PC to another without going through a switch. The switch has logic that converts the streams, but regular NICs don't. Tech is improving, so this is less of an issue now than it once was.
@@catatonicbug7522 yeah my zona switch will take all configurations and convert them. The green and blue trade is not a crossover. It's our standard hook up. I don't know why we have to have all these other hook ups. I.never used the crossover for two computers the network does it all without removing computers from their locations. Our IS person can remote from the old building and make changes on my computer. There is some setup required which I know nothing about. My job is to repair jacks and network cables when problems arise. The IS person is disabled and has a hard time walking between buildings. If he needs to have the computer at his station I bring it to him. We just got fiber for our building from the. Road. I don't know if the old fiber optic cable between buildings is still used I guess for backup it may be. 73
great video , for my needs this is overkill, I have cat 5e UTP cables in the wall so I get the cheapest plugs and crimp those. The router has a max of 1 Gbps and will reach this trough this this cables. The internet from the isp is a 500 kbps symmetrical so I think will not need cat 7 :)))
Yeah Cat5e is probably fine for most homes although if you're buying new I'd say go for Cat6a. Cat7 will be overkill (and isn't even an official standard so some people look very harshly on it) but I thought I'd use it to make the video more interesting :)
Can I splice fiber at home too? I want to move my ISP modem to the attic but I'm afraid I'll pull off the plug at the end of the fiber as I withdraw it through the in-wall tubing. So, I'd like to know that I can repair a broken fiber if necessary. Thank you.
It's to do with how they're made and the process for putting the colour on unevenly would damage the wires or put uneven stress on the wire. Or something like that - I was speaking a while ago to an expert and he explained it to me!
It helps the shield to be more effective by grounding any small currents which might be induced in the wiring. But for that to work, the network switch needs to support it and itself be grounded.
Plan A: I'm getting ready to upgrade all the networking cables in my home (all Cat 5 right now). We have five computers (4 Mac, 1 PC, several iPads and iPhones, 2 Apple TV, 1 fire cube) and I have probably missed something. I will be adding several exterior surveillance cameras that with be PoE powered. Everything is on some type of APC brand UPS and one Tripp-lite UPS for the Rack equipment (16 port switch {no PoE), rack mount power strip, okay my brain stopped) Anyhow, I need to find the right switch for the PoE (I think I will need 4 lines powered but I will plan for 8 just to be safe and ability to added equipment in the future). I only have 4 cameras right now and I haven't taken a look at the power requirements recently (brain fog setting in) longest cable run for the PoE will be about 75 feet straight so I will plan for 100 foot max wire run 3 more PoE lines that are about 15 shorter. I know whatever the weakest link is will set the speed limit for the system. I haven't done enough research yet to determine what cable I will be using (I want shielded Cat 6a, 7 or 8) I don't want to cut corners to save a few bucks now and have pay more later to do it right. Buy once, cry once. Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated. If it sounds like I'm confused... lol. maybe I am. Plan B: two vegetable cans and a string. (empty cans, so you know I'm a tekkie or is that Treky for Star Trek) I think I had too much Pepsi.
Nice plan! Plan B I mean :-) On Plan A, I'd probably stick with CAT6A cable and then depending on how many ports you need, I have both of these gigabit PoE switches (geni.us/NETGEAR8PortPoESwitch and geni.us/NetgearPoEx5 - affiliate links) as well as various other non-PoE ones. The smaller of those switches runs a PoE CCTV camera at my house, and the larger one powers 3x Panasonic PTZ cameras at my church which are then fed into an ATEM Mini via fibre optic HDMI cables. When planning out your network layout, you could put several switches about the place, to avoid having to run multiple cables all around the house - as long as you don't mind a switch's connection back to your main router being limited to 1Gbps, unless of course you go 10Gbps which if you're starting from scratch might be a good shout to future proof further!
@@SwitchedOnNetwork You must have read my mind or looked in my house. Right now I have two Netgear I think GS105 switches, one in the living room with the entertainment center IOT's, another one in one of the bedrooms with IOT's attached. I have two computers directly attached to the Netgear JGS516 16 Port switch.
Love how they only show solid and striped, but the ether cable that I have is all solid, White/Orange/Light Green/Dark Blue/Light Blue/Dark green/Purple-ish/Brown.
That's bizarre. Do the colours of the strands that are twisted together correspond in a way that you're able to easily tell them apart at either end ok?
Got the cable tester and it says cable is good, but Cat6 won’t negotiate correctly. I assume on non shielded cables it’ll be an interference issue rather than cable break? I need to Earth my wall cabinet to some copper pipe.
For it not to negotiate at all, I'd assume it's something other than interference (unless you have some major, major interference going on!) Are you able to test the cable elsewhere, or test the connection between devices with a different cable (move devices closer and use a known-working patch lead) to either rule out or in the cable you've just made up? Let me know how you get on! 🤞🤞
@@SwitchedOnNetwork it comes up if I pin the speed down on the switch to 100 FDXz Not ideally, but worst case I’ll have to do another pull / reterminate Cable tester lights pass as expected. Asked a few friends / colleagues if they had a fluke I could borrow. Excel and FS keystone etc
Tested both switched and server and need to pin port on switch for it to come up, but won’t come up at 1Gb Worked at SSE years ago where we pinned both sides, pain in the arse when either team fluffs their config. I’ve had to pin Nexus 9k SFP28 as they don’t auto negotiate. This however is a “simple” cat 6 run to a patch panel and then patch to a device.
Thanks Bob! I do the occasional bits of voiceover work with my company, Innobella Media, but not often. I'm touched that you like my voice, thank you - I'll look after it! ;) Glad you liked this video too, hope it was useful.
Yes that's right, depending on the environment and setup you may only want to connect one end. (obviously the tester won't test continuity of the shielding in that case)
Yes, these will work with CAT6 and CAT5e as well - the only thing you need to check is that the gauge of the wires (look for the AWG number) matches with that of the plugs you buy 👍
. @SwitchedOnNetwork That was my point as I thought Cat7 and Cat6A were 23 gauge wire and that Cat6 and Cat5E were thinner 24 gauge wire and would need a different connector.
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thanks again.. much appreciated
The RJ45 Modular Plugs with Load Bar link is to Punch Down Keystone Jack Adapters instead of what you showed.
Thanks Jim, I'll look into that as it might be geolocating to the wrong item. Which country are you in?.
@@SwitchedOnNetwork USA, Florida to be more specific.
Thanks! It should work properly now.
Simple, easy to understand and no fluff!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful 😊
There's just nothing like the feeling of crimping the perfect connector... then looking down and seeing the boot lying separate on the table.
You got my subscription with this video. I feel about running network cable like I feel about doing woodwork. For someone who hates it, I seem to do an awful lot of it.
hahaha 😂😂😂
Yeah it's one of those tasks which isn't particularly fun, but it's necessary and enables/improves a lot of other things!
A proper DOH! moment right there, I feel your pain.
Lmaooooo
IMO the boot is optional, and for the vast majority of cases, I prefer to not have the boot. I've had lots of experience with the boot plastic hardening because of age, and environment, and once hardened it becomes substantially harder to disconnect the cable from the device.
Thank you very much for this video!
I bought a Cat 7 cable from a retailer, and their guide was very very bad. It had me spent 2 days trying to figure it out, with their support team not understanding me. Then I saw this video, and it worked first try!
I was today years old when I discovered that the metal wires from shielded cat6/7 cables serve as grounding. To be fair, it's not been that long since I've joined the industry, but I'm glad I found it now than later.
Don't forget, the shield must be grounded at one end too. Otherwise, it's useless.
@@James_KnottWell noted, thanks!
What the use of ground network cabling?
@@pit3835 Some cables have a shield to reduce interference. To be effective, the shield must be grounded at one point.
lol what an idiot!
I use to wire up RJ45 plugs before they had the "load bar." You would have to prepare all the wire and then run them up into the plug with nothing but your finger tips holding them into place and give the wires a little side to side twist so they would run up into the slots until they bottomed out at the end and then crimp it.
I've been using the EZ RJ45 pass-through connectors since they came out. They save me so much valuable time which could easily be wasted with troubleshooting regular RJ45 connectors. To date I haven't had a single short as I use a very high quality crimping tool with auto-trimmer. Will never go back to regular closed end connectors.
As an AV tech I love it when the higher-ups demand load bar connectors just because I get paid more, but I have to say I've never had a short problem with pass-throughs. I think the key is good tools, most importantly your flush cutters and the blade on your crimpers. Replacements are sold for most crimpers and maintaining the blade like a good knife will ensure that the cut-off is smooth and short-free. When you look at the end of the completed connector each wire end should look like a little colored donut with a shiny copper dot in the middle-no crushing or smearing of the copper leads into each other. Another cheat I've seen is a small dab of gel CA glue spread over the ends of the wires exposed at the end of the connector. Do this after testing and before insertion, and please let the CA dry before installation or it'll be permanent.
I had the opportunity to have a break-time competition with a guy who had one of those bad-ass testers, and the difference between an EZ connector and a high-end connector, both well installed, is negligible for most AV and non-military applications.
The truth is that these connectors are engineered to avoid interaction between potential short points. If you plug a pass-through into a socket and get a short you really have to evaluate your terminating technique!
A friend of mine gave me a bag of those connectors with that little plastic insert. Those are used for stranded wire. I use the passthrough for solid wire. Just makes it easy to see the colors and then just adjust the wire, cut and pull back for a perfect flush. Try doing that with stranded wire and you'll be pulling your hair. That's how I found what those were for. Plus the bag clearly says that. He just ordered the wrong ones.
Sir, thank you very much. I was re-terminating a outdoor rated Icky-Pick filled patch cable last night and things were just going so fast. I went to go use these new modular RJ45 ends and kept having to redo it because there were no GROOVES like normal lol. Wow I felt DUMB! Now! I feel grateful annnd SMARTER lol.
Thanks ~
We have used passthroughs for several years, done 100s of them, never once had an issue.
Had zero issues with passthrough connectors, been using them since they appeared on the market, any claim about "shorts" is rubbish, I just use quality connectors and a proper crimping tool and get the job done fast and professionally.
Only good video on youtube that I found for cat 7! Thank You!!!
You're welcome!
Legitimately thank you for this video, I had no clue they made the connectors with a modular load bar. This is an absolute game changer. Definitely getting some of these, my server closet is about to have one heck of a makeover. (also somehow never realized you could buy those little cable stress relievers as a pre-made drop in component for cable making, I always just assumed those were always just injection molded in the factory and required some sort of expensive machine to make, never thought about there being a slip on option for homemade cables)
Glad it was helpful! 😄
Sorry to disappoint but it's Not a cable stress reliever. it only Protects the clip from braking when your pulling it out of your to messy cable management Trey. at home mostly you realy don't need it. the stress Relieve is at the end of your original plug sadly the video dos not mention the cable shielding is seposed to go under it if your doing it richt. Also it is a good idear to strip the cable longer it make arranging the cables easier and your can twist the excess together so they dos fall all over when you cut them later.
That moment your struggling with the inserting the cables, then wanting to buy the passtrough connectors and seeying the wire guides where included in the package, thanks allot this helps!
so cool, iv never done this, i dont have the tools but watching these videos gives me confidence in trying one day.
Go for it! 💪 Everything you need is listed in the description. Once you've done it a few times you'll soon start finding it easy 🙂
@@SwitchedOnNetwork i see these videos are popular i looked on the back of my modem router and noticed an ethernet cable split into two rj11 for the dsl and phone line..have you made one of those? would like to see your version of explanation.
The nice thing about the pass through connector is that you can thread each strand through one at a time in the right order, and then pull them straight. That way you don't have to do all the straightening and ordering up front, which is in my experience, the time consuming bit when adding a plug. It looks like that would work with modular load bar as well. Have you tried that?
I tried that after reading similar comments on the previous video I put out (this one: th-cam.com/video/NWhoJp8UQpo/w-d-xo.html) but couldn't get them to thread through nicely so went back to the method I showed. Maybe I need to practise more, but grouping them together works for me so I'll probably stick with that. Great that there's another method though, and if it works better for some people then I'm all for that :)
@@SwitchedOnNetwork If the connector of RJ45 can be injection molded into one, it will be better, with guaranteed quality and more beautiful appearance
This is insanely inefficient. Just cut all 8 at an angle and gently guide them in.
@@jodycwilliams Inefficient? For the average person who makes these cables a few times a year, efficiency is irrelevant.
Agree. Pass-through is the best.
IMO modular works great because it's staggered. It allows each cable to have its own chamber so the pin is much less likely to miss the bite into the wire and slip in-between the wire and jacket. They also sell non-modular that are staggered, that's what I use. They shouldn't have enough room to slip to the side, that's why you're not supposed to use CAT5 (24 gauge) in CAT6 (23 gauge (bigger)) connectors. But in the last 5+ years I haven't had a bad connection using non-modular staggered CAT6 with CAT5 😉
I bought staggered connectors once, and hated them (I think I still have them somewhere). With the additional module is nice, but only staggered, I could never find how to get them in the holes. With the linear Cat5e, I would prepare them and tension them against wall while sliding in. But staggered??? And recently I bought passthrough, but did not crimp any yet.
@@mateiberatco500 i mostly use staggered (non modular), that's my go to. But! It took me a LONG time to get used to it and get it just right. They also have staggered passthrough, witch IMO would be the best of all worlds. Staggered let's you get away with using cat5 (thinner wire) with cat6 terminations. So you can just have a bag of Cat6 staggered passthrough for everything, solid, stranded, cat5, thin/thick jacket, and they won't shift to the side and cause the pin to park on the side of the wire vs biting into it.
Thanks a lot, your video help me a lot to fix a short issue I had with my RJ45 connector with passthru features.
Perfect video and I can see this is the same for Cat 8 as well. thank you!
You're welcome!
Great informative video, very interesting. I like the modular plug design, makes it really easy to make a cable. I also like the cable tester.
Glad it was helpful!
Your voice makes me think of Henry Cavil for some reason, is that why this is the only video which actually helps me make cat7 terminations? You're a godsend Henry Cavil of the Ethernetworld
haha thanks!
Thanks! Now I understand the function of that metal part. And that hint about those 12 mm is good also!
Glad it was helpful!
My crimping tool cuts the ends right away, so I always just leave em too long and they go through the end get cut when crimped.
Quite handy.
just installed a big system in the warehouse with about 160 connectrors. Used cheap chinese pliers and pass-throught connectors. Out of all of them all was working except two. One because of security pin broke off, second : because wires were mixed.
They crimped perfectly
I wanted to find how "load bars" are actually named, but had zero idea.
Thanks to you I have found them!
Also, very useful tips and demonstration on how to wire up TP cable!
Thanks for the video!
I have only connected a few for home use but without a pass through. To hold the ends I cut a ~8mm strip from an old credit card, fold it and use it to hold the wires in a tight group. Seems to work fairly well but that pass through makes it look much easier.
The reason for t-568 having an a and b standard is for when you need crossover cables. The shield is for electromagnetic (EMF) interference. You dont have to bond the shield if you're not running the cable through areas where you're not having to deal with emf interference or you're not trying to use the cable near its maximum speeds.
With FastEthernet (100Mbps) they started introducing auto MDI-X, which means they can detect a crossover cable. So today (at least with Gbit devices), I think you can use a crossover cable (one end A, other end B) with any network device and it will work.
@@mateiberatco500 just looked it up. Apparently most modern devices are equipped with auto mdix and it will set itself according to the auto detect. However, since it's not guaranteed, there may be some instances where a crossover cable will be required. This is typically from network switch to network switch where crossover cables are traditionally required. It's also required if you skip the network switch and do a peer to peer direct connection between computers/consoles.
@@ianbelletti6241 "Traditionally required"... that made me smile.
I used straight cables between PCs during the 100Mbps era. Granted, the cards were marketed as auto-MDI/MDI-X.
Also I have played with a lot of switches (since 100Mbps era), including my 2 new 2.5Gbps and POE-powered switches (5-port POE pass-through). I remember using crossover just for some early 100Mbps switches. Of course, 90% of world products is not 100%.
PS: I see on wikipedia that there are 2 configurations that use the switchable pairs for power. I guess a crossover cable would reverse-polarity the device???
@@mateiberatco500 what happens in standard fixed connections is that you have a transmit pair and a receiving pair in each device. When the two connector wirings match, you need a crossover cable to make sure the transmit pair on one device connects to the receiving pair on the other device. Auto mdix automatically negotiates this by detecting which pair on the device's end is transmit and which is receive and chooses to use the a or b standard on its connector to ensure that the communication can occur. On devices that are not auto mdix, you are expected to know if you are connecting like to like connectors (a to a or b to b) or different connectors (a to b). If it's like to like, you need a crossover cable. If it's different, then you need a standard cable. Traditionally, user end devices had one connector standard and switches used the other. You could connect end user device to switch with a standard cable but direct peer to peer or switch to switch required crossover cables.
@@ianbelletti6241 And my point is that since 1000Gbit switches and cards, I have NOT found a device (cards and motherboards) lacking auto-MDI-X. Which means it really doesn't matter. The example I was thinking: if you need to replace the connector and you're too lazy to check the other end, on the other side of the house. As long as you remember that you stuck with t-568, you don't have to bother which variant (or if the other side is the switch with a mix of A/B wiring and can't easily identify the "victim" cable).
PS: I have not used a crossover cable in years, including Raspberry PI directly to a 10Mbps retro card (the latter which, by the way, does not have audo-MDI-X... a single side is enough).
Very nice, very detailed one, truly loved it
a cable made with a T568A on one end and a T568B on the other end is known as a crossover, mainly used between devices of the same type, these days MDI-X is supposed to detect what is at the end of the cable and adjust as needed but I still do it the old way as it eliminates something else going wrong, I prefer to use the use the 'razor' on the cutters on the the tool, they make a neater job if you have a good one and saves time and hassle of reaching for a 2nd tool - saves a lot of time when wiring up cabinets with lots of switchports in a neat and tidy fashion. the best way to get good at this is to do a lot of them -
5:18 I found if there is a wire issue part way along the drop, the wire tester may show all 8 lighting but the end point may only negotiate at 100M. Dealing with this at a clients office right now.
Missed the part where the wires jump grooves when you slide the bandwidth separator (what my job calls it) down. I would also suggest pushing it down ever so slightly more than you need. This way when you flush cut, you dont risk cutting the separator as well. Then you just slide it to the ends of the wires.
That shouldn't be necessary if you have a good flush cutter tool (like the one I used, and linked in description) and use proper technique. However, it's still a good idea for an alternative technique if that's a problem so thanks! :)
Maybe this isn't the best place for this comment, but I'll go for it. My company stopped the whole clown show around CAT7 and those ridiculous swiss-watch connectors a couple of years ago when optical baluns hit the market. One fiber line to a managed switch gets it done with even better speed and, check it, no EMF interference! Sheesh we can buy prebuilt cables with baluns pre-installed! And they work GREAT!
Yeah fibre's pretty sweet and it's so cheap nowadays. I put out a video on it recently, but it's not done that well so feel free to go and give it some love ;-) th-cam.com/video/XQjP135ZtcE/w-d-xo.html
Just done my first Cat6a thanks!
Good work!
In my experience it’s not super necessary to use flush-cutters to cut away the foil shielding for the individual pairs. If you unwrap it and just keep twisting it will give and come right off. Not a huge difference but it helps to know when you don’t have your flush cutters with you that moment.
Good tip, thanks!
Thank you for this video!!! Very clean and well instructed
My pleasure! I'm glad you found it useful. Happy crimping!
The connector with load bar is the best, it works with super thin FLAT Rj45 cable, where others did not work!
I got my house wired up and I had to do something similar with my keystone patch panel. When I was doing the first cable the technician was still around and gave me some advice in which now I'm still pretty sure made me do my first cable end in "A" config. After he left I kept going by learning with a YT video and ended up doing the rest of the cables in "B" config. When I tested all the cables are working seemingly fine, I tested with the network cable tester, all cables + ground light up sequentially on both ends like in this video, but I don't know how the other cable ends are setup. I'm now worried that I might have some crossover cables but my internet is working just fine.
If they light up sequentially on both ends, then they must be the same wiring at each end so you'll have standard patch cables rather than crossovers. If you do have some crossovers, I think some switches and network interfaces are clever enough to detect that and adjust accordingly, so would still work - but don't quote me on that!
Good work
Thank you so much 😀
What do you mean by cat 5 and 6 should be good for 1 gigabit and cat 7 - for 10? I am sure 2.5 and 5 gigabit both work on 5e and 6, and 6 and 6a can carry 10G.
5e will only do 1g. Some 6 will go up to 10g depending on the gauge.
@@paulanderson3898 5e can do 10gig for short distances
I dont even think CAT 7 is even certified yet.
That is the case. There is no purpose for Cat7.
@@0bsmith0 I agree. At those data rates one should be considering fibre.
I was struggling today crimping cat 6 using the insert, I finally end up using cat5e RJ45 connector, much easier.
It sounds like the gauge (thickness) of the wires might not have matched the plugs. Check the AWG number on both is the same. Hope that helps!
REALLY nice explanation, great job
Thank you!
I would recommend having gloves for cat7 if you are terminating a bunch like I did years ago 240 pulls hands were cut up after all the terminations.
Yeah, good tip! Always good to protect your hands if you're doing a lot of work.
Very helpful and very well explained. Thanks. 🙏🏻👏
Thank you!
One of the most perfect educational videos i have ever seen. Damn you good :D
That's very kind of you to say, thank you!
I started working in this industry in my early twenties. Back then I would bang out 100 patch cords fully terminated and booted in under an hour. We used a small machine if they were available to crimp the RJ45, otherwise we'd do it with a hand tool which would take longer.
We never made our own patch cables, every project we go to we would take a partitioned box with different sizes of pre-made (stranded) cables.
Then for the runs between rooms, we use solid core cables and terminate them in punch down blocks.
Yeah you'd never bother making your own short patch cables, but for longer custom length runs which *can't* go into a patch panel or a keystone jack, this is how...
Thank you, it's really really helpful
very neat and clear. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed! 😄
Great video, easy to understand, thank you :)
What some people fail to understand is when you use shielded cable, it must be grounded at one end. This means the connector it plugs into must also be shielded. If there is no shielded & grounded connector, then the shield is useless. I have worked with switches that have shielded & grounded connectors and I have also brought out the shield wire to connect it to a ground point. In telecom, where I spent decades of my career, shields and grounds are a big issue.
Also, my understanding is that TIA-568A is preferred, not B. Also, I prefer A because it places the orange wire between the green and blue. With some cables, it's hard to tell the difference between green & blue, so having the orange wire in between means you're less likely to go cross eyed, trying to make sure the plug is wired correctly.
Originally TIA 568A was meant for residential work while TIA 568B was meant for commercial work... TIA 568B has been the dominant choice for all now...
@@MrSupersidewinder Actually, 568A matched the telephone system cabling that had been in use for decades before there was even such a thing a Ethernet. 568B came about with StarLAN, which eventually became 10baseT. It was designed to use the existing 3 pair CAT 3 telephone cables that were commonly used in offices. Since pair 1 (blue) was used for the phone line, the orange & green pairs were used for the LAN. I have never heard of the distinction between residential and commercial work and my telecom background goes back 50 years and first LAN work in 1978. I also got my CCNA several years ago.
Yeah I'm pretty sure there's zero distinction in this regard between residential and commercial (but happy to be corrected if I'm wrong!)
The only thing I've ever heard about the difference between A and B (and this is purely rumor and hearsay) is that A is more common in Australia, but B is used everywhere else, unless a sparky did the wiring job.
@@catatonicbug7522 A is more common in Canada too. However, it makes no difference which one you use, so long as you're consistent.
Great demonstration.
The worst part about finding the correct plug is that there are too many CAT6 and CAT6A cable types (gauges). I had to go through several modular RJ45 connector brands/types to find the correct one (many manufacturers don't specify cable/plug gauge). I also have probably around 5 types of UTP/STP cables around house for some reason. Weirdly enough CAT5e (non-modular) plugs seem to be the most flexible and work even with CAT6A cables.
I often find cables moving to the side in the modular plugs after crimping even though everything looked fine before crimping. Wish there were connectors with metallic load bars instead of the cheap plastic ones.
Yeah it's always important to match the gauge of the cable to that of the plug - I was doing an installation once where another contractor had supplied the cable but I ended up having to put some of my own plugs on and it turned out his wire was thicker and it was a nightmare until we got the right ends!
Metal might cause an impedance bump.
@@James_Knott Yeah, I guess it could also short easily. What about punch-in RJ45 male plugs? :D
Yeah I'd avoid metal - I don't know if they even exist?
got a vid going into the downsides of the different plugs in more detail? like how does the passthrough short out?
I love the load bars. Co workers hate them.
Posteno i strucno objasnjeno
Hvala
Hvala, drago mi je da ste uživali u videu!
Thanks for your valuable information
This is such a great video, thanks
Thank you! Glad it was helpful 😀
@@SwitchedOnNetwork I'm in the UK so was wondering where I might get the crimpers and plugs etc
Hello fellow Brit! 🤣 I've put affiliate links to Amazon in the description and pinned comment - you'll be sent to the UK site when you click 👍
Solid wires are for magistral lines with patch-panels, outlets ending.
Well I already been doing this for year's but never know that braided shielding was a ground wire. I always cut it off as I think it wasn't important..😅 guess I learn new things and do it properly.. gotta change my current cable right now..🙂
ha, glad you learnt something! Bear in mind, that's only relevant if the switch it's plugged into provides grounding for it to connect to - otherwise it's pointless. So you might not gain anything by changing just your cable.
@@SwitchedOnNetwork I see so not all port connection have grounding only some of them.. anyway looking forward to your other video.. I just found your channel recently and I’m interest on it already.. just sub for you and hope you can keep continuing on what you do. 🙂👍
Thanks for the sub! Glad you're enjoying the channel, a few more networking related videos for the coming year hopefully 🤞
I have used the passthrough type just because there is no metal in the back of my sockets to short things out. They are very easy to use.
It's moisture that people are most worried about I think, especially in PoE applications. But of course, if moisture is a possibility or concern then "using closed instead of passthrough plugs" shouldn't be the solution, using a proper waterproofing boot should be the minimum they'd do! (For an interesting read, take a look at the comments section of the passthrough plugs video on my channel! 🤣)
@@SwitchedOnNetwork Sounds like one of those "It's not popular, because idiots blame it for their ignorance" situations. 🤔😂
I've terminated hundreds of passthrough RJ45's without a single failure. Genuinely didn't know people think there's a risk of shorting with them. This seems rather convoluted, but perhaps required when working with complex shielded connectors.
Me too! I've never had an issue with them myself, but the comments section of the video tutorial on pass through plugs was so rife with arguments about shorts that I thought a video on these would be a good shout 😄
5:45 on this type of cable tester only the smaller part will tell you that wires are in incorrect order, the larger one can only tell whether you have a missing wire.
Yes, that's correct.
Very brief demonstration. Thank you. How about the tool you use to squeeze the jack? Which one do you recommend best?
Purchasing links in the video description 👍
I haven't heard of a loading bar and it appears to be an extra step I don't need. I use pass-through connectors and once I slide the wires into place, I check the color coding to ensure nothing got twisted or mixed up. Once I crimp down, the excess wire is cut flush to the end of the connector and its ready to go. All the other steps you did are the same for me.
Yeah these are kind of a best of both worlds between standard and passthrough as these have closed ends when completed, so if that's required it ticks that box.
I almost always terminate to a keystone. Use a patch cable from there so it's user serviceable. Only when it's a device like an outdoor IP camera do I terminate to RJ45.
Yep, that's standard.
This video was for creating a patch cable. Custom length patch cables keep racks neat and clean.
Cool idea, I just did my first RJ45 connector and it could have been easier!
Do a video on how to disconnect the wires and use the plug heads again incase you change your location or something goes wrong
These ones aren't reusable
I don't run cables full time - I'm a systems admin. But I've crimped at least hundreds and probably over a thousand cables using the old way, enough that I haven't had to look at a wiring diagram in more than a decade. I've crimped enough that it was very rare for me to have to re-crimp a termination. At first I was skeptical of passthrough RJ45 plugs. No longer. They are superior - easier to use and you know if the pinout is correct before you crimp. I have given away my old crimpers and ends.
my cables always look ghetto because the wire is usually sticking out of the bottom of the connector because i leave too much slack and don't cut it off. I also don't straiten the wires all the way, so it sometimes takes a few tries to get the wires to stay, and not bend. This is all with standard, non-passthrough connectors, and 23 AWG wire.
Thanks man
You're welcome! Hope it's helpful :)
Great educational video! However, in real life, I would prefer using a Pass-Through RJ45 connector because it’s quicker and simpler to use. In the video, you used separate tools for each step, like one tool for stripping the cable and another for cutting it. It would be a real pain in the a** to carry so many tools on-site, especially when I’m on a ladder or working in a cramped storage room with a wall-mounted rack.
I have a question though: wouldn’t it be better to strip away the outer jacket and crimp that strain relief to that instead of peeling back and twisting the braided shielding? I feel like that would give a better mechanical connection for both the strain relief and the shielding, as it’s clamping down on a more ‘regular’ surface, less chance of a gap or looser connection.
Are the all white wires corresponding to the same color with the stripe?
Yes, that's exactly it.
@SwitchedOnNetwork thank you!
Super useful thank you 👍
I've been making cables for over a decade and never had an issue with the pass through ends. They are what everyone should use imo. Furthermore, 99.99999% of people don't need cat7 (or anything over 6a). Cat 6 is sufficient for nearly all uses, hell, even cat5e. Unless you're running 10 gigabit, 5e is fine, unless you're running over fluorescent lights or some crazy EMI. "Future proofing" cable is dumb. 20+ year old cat5e still exceeds almost all workloads. You can run 20 simultaneous 4k streams on a single cat5e cable. Don't buy into the cable salesman's hype, it just extra money and difficulty for zero benefit in 99% of cases.
Agree, more often than not, is more important the conector rather than the cable. Not saying you need expensive ones, just a decent quality (for some years i had cheap ones and it was difficult to work on them, almost never crimped well, and didnt latch to the cable, the little plastic always broke)
👍
Thanks very much for sharing your experience with us. It will save me wasting money needlessly 👍🏼
I've tried 3 hours to correctly set those modulars connectors and they were always switching positions at the end of the connector. I went and bought regular connectors and it was perfect in 5mins.
Nice. I purchased a big Belkin Cat 5e kit at a garage sale some time ago. I’m not sure how many feet of cable it has...
Why do you cut the inner shielding foil instead of twisting it ad folding it back along the braiding?
You could do that too if you want all those to be grounded as well 👍
What's was super helpful thank you
Glad it helped!
I mean.... Make the wire about 3" long instead of how short they are in the beginning. Straighten them out and then cut straight across while holding the wires flat. Allows you to have room to hold the wires in place while shoving them through the connector. Makes it WAY EASIER.
At my work the solid green and blue trade places all others are the same. The jacks are wired with the B . I done a few cross overs but not many. I need to ask where the cross overs were used I don't remember. 73
Crossover cables are used for connecting one PC to another without going through a switch. The switch has logic that converts the streams, but regular NICs don't. Tech is improving, so this is less of an issue now than it once was.
@@catatonicbug7522 yeah my zona switch will take all configurations and convert them. The green and blue trade is not a crossover. It's our standard hook up. I don't know why we have to have all these other hook ups. I.never used the crossover for two computers the network does it all without removing computers from their locations. Our IS person can remote from the old building and make changes on my computer. There is some setup required which I know nothing about. My job is to repair jacks and network cables when problems arise. The IS person is disabled and has a hard time walking between buildings. If he needs to have the computer at his station I bring it to him. We just got fiber for our building from the. Road. I don't know if the old fiber optic cable between buildings is still used I guess for backup it may be. 73
great video , for my needs this is overkill, I have cat 5e UTP cables in the wall so I get the cheapest plugs and crimp those. The router has a max of 1 Gbps and will reach this trough this this cables. The internet from the isp is a 500 kbps symmetrical so I think will not need cat 7 :)))
Yeah Cat5e is probably fine for most homes although if you're buying new I'd say go for Cat6a. Cat7 will be overkill (and isn't even an official standard so some people look very harshly on it) but I thought I'd use it to make the video more interesting :)
Can I splice fiber at home too? I want to move my ISP modem to the attic but I'm afraid I'll pull off the plug at the end of the fiber as I withdraw it through the in-wall tubing. So, I'd like to know that I can repair a broken fiber if necessary. Thank you.
You can in theory, but you'd require the tools and expertise to do that - neither of which I have! 🤣
1:31 Why there is no color indicator on white wires?
It's to do with how they're made and the process for putting the colour on unevenly would damage the wires or put uneven stress on the wire. Or something like that - I was speaking a while ago to an expert and he explained it to me!
Hello, I got a question about the automatic wire stripper. Can he also strip fiber optics cable since they're much more fragile?
I've never tried it, but I wouldn't think so - no.
wow. whats the use of ground? is that important? is that use to prevent current leakage?
It helps the shield to be more effective by grounding any small currents which might be induced in the wiring. But for that to work, the network switch needs to support it and itself be grounded.
Impressive!!!
Plan A: I'm getting ready to upgrade all the networking cables in my home (all Cat 5 right now). We have five computers (4 Mac, 1 PC, several iPads and iPhones, 2 Apple TV, 1 fire cube) and I have probably missed something. I will be adding several exterior surveillance cameras that with be PoE powered. Everything is on some type of APC brand UPS and one Tripp-lite UPS for the Rack equipment (16 port switch {no PoE), rack mount power strip, okay my brain stopped) Anyhow, I need to find the right switch for the PoE (I think I will need 4 lines powered but I will plan for 8 just to be safe and ability to added equipment in the future). I only have 4 cameras right now and I haven't taken a look at the power requirements recently (brain fog setting in) longest cable run for the PoE will be about 75 feet straight so I will plan for 100 foot max wire run 3 more PoE lines that are about 15 shorter. I know whatever the weakest link is will set the speed limit for the system. I haven't done enough research yet to determine what cable I will be using (I want shielded Cat 6a, 7 or 8) I don't want to cut corners to save a few bucks now and have pay more later to do it right. Buy once, cry once. Any thoughts or recommendations would be appreciated. If it sounds like I'm confused... lol. maybe I am. Plan B: two vegetable cans and a string. (empty cans, so you know I'm a tekkie or is that Treky for Star Trek) I think I had too much Pepsi.
Nice plan! Plan B I mean :-) On Plan A, I'd probably stick with CAT6A cable and then depending on how many ports you need, I have both of these gigabit PoE switches (geni.us/NETGEAR8PortPoESwitch and geni.us/NetgearPoEx5 - affiliate links) as well as various other non-PoE ones. The smaller of those switches runs a PoE CCTV camera at my house, and the larger one powers 3x Panasonic PTZ cameras at my church which are then fed into an ATEM Mini via fibre optic HDMI cables. When planning out your network layout, you could put several switches about the place, to avoid having to run multiple cables all around the house - as long as you don't mind a switch's connection back to your main router being limited to 1Gbps, unless of course you go 10Gbps which if you're starting from scratch might be a good shout to future proof further!
@@SwitchedOnNetwork You must have read my mind or looked in my house. Right now I have two Netgear I think GS105 switches, one in the living room with the entertainment center IOT's, another one in one of the bedrooms with IOT's attached. I have two computers directly attached to the Netgear JGS516 16 Port switch.
@@SwitchedOnNetwork I sent a pic of my small network to your email address, laugh, cry, recommend improvements
I'm not seeing any emails (or in spam) - where did you send it? You can tweet it to me @paulfp if you like.
@@SwitchedOnNetwork Tweet sent if I did it right, still new on Twitter
I have a cable tester that makes all lights glow if it is correct.
Yeah different ones display results differently. That's fine 👍
Love how they only show solid and striped, but the ether cable that I have is all solid, White/Orange/Light Green/Dark Blue/Light Blue/Dark green/Purple-ish/Brown.
That's bizarre. Do the colours of the strands that are twisted together correspond in a way that you're able to easily tell them apart at either end ok?
That's a crazy color combination. Definitely not standard.
i wonder since we have switch does straight and crossover cable really matter?
Yeah you hardly ever see crossover cables these days!
what is the actual risk of shorts from pass through? and what would that short do?
use key stone and fabric pach cord
That's usually (but also very often not) the best option, yes. But for times when you need to terminate with a plug...
Got the cable tester and it says cable is good, but Cat6 won’t negotiate correctly. I assume on non shielded cables it’ll be an interference issue rather than cable break?
I need to Earth my wall cabinet to some copper pipe.
For it not to negotiate at all, I'd assume it's something other than interference (unless you have some major, major interference going on!) Are you able to test the cable elsewhere, or test the connection between devices with a different cable (move devices closer and use a known-working patch lead) to either rule out or in the cable you've just made up?
Let me know how you get on! 🤞🤞
@@SwitchedOnNetwork it comes up if I pin the speed down on the switch to 100 FDXz
Not ideally, but worst case I’ll have to do another pull / reterminate
Cable tester lights pass as expected. Asked a few friends / colleagues if they had a fluke I could borrow.
Excel and FS keystone etc
Hmm, strange. Is it a switch on both ends of the cable run?
Tested both switched and server and need to pin port on switch for it to come up, but won’t come up at 1Gb
Worked at SSE years ago where we pinned both sides, pain in the arse when either team fluffs their config.
I’ve had to pin Nexus 9k SFP28 as they don’t auto negotiate. This however is a “simple” cat 6 run to a patch panel and then patch to a device.
I think it's a crosstalk issue.
you have an excellent voice! Ever think about doing commercials???? Also great video.
Thanks Bob! I do the occasional bits of voiceover work with my company, Innobella Media, but not often. I'm touched that you like my voice, thank you - I'll look after it! ;) Glad you liked this video too, hope it was useful.
Will my regular Ethernet crimping tool work on these ends to crimp the end on? Or is the crimping tool designed different for these ends?
My regular tool is for passthrough.
A little copper tape helps with the connection of the shielding
Good idea! 😀
Take a look at the Telegaertner MFP8 RJ45 connector.
aaah yes I've seen those before. They look cool - might have to get some, try them out and make another video! :)
My fingers & Crimping Tools are enough to do this
I would avoid connecting the ground at both plugs as you may create a ground loop between the devices.
Yes that's right, depending on the environment and setup you may only want to connect one end. (obviously the tester won't test continuity of the shielding in that case)
Thanks bro
Do they make the same load bar connectors for older Cat5E wire and if so where can they be purchased?
Yes, these will work with CAT6 and CAT5e as well - the only thing you need to check is that the gauge of the wires (look for the AWG number) matches with that of the plugs you buy 👍
. @SwitchedOnNetwork That was my point as I thought Cat7 and Cat6A were 23 gauge wire and that Cat6 and Cat5E were thinner 24 gauge wire and would need a different connector.
i use passthrough no problem with it
Me too! But lots of people really like these style and it got lots of requests so I thought I'd make a video :)