I was using harbor freight battery tools ages ago. My father in law gifted me a Ryobi 18v drill and saw kit (the old blue and yellow ones with NiCd batteries). Still using those Ryobi tools now with Ryobi One+ li-ion batteries and have since purchased more Ryobi tools. The li-ion batteries were/are a great upgrade for tool performance.
I did something similar, but I just glued the old top battery housing onto the top of the new battery after soldering the terminals together. It worked about as well as your first try. It was a harbor freight lithium battery: 16 bucks. No endurance whatsoever. . .
The reason why doubling your mAh capacity made such an improvement is you are overloading the cells -- drawing too much current. Normal laptop batteries are more optimized for capacity and not for ability to provide high currents. Normal power tool batteries are the opposite. A laptop battery might be designed to provide 2-3C (a 2Ah cell might provide 4A to 6A) while a power tool battery might be designed to provide up to 40C (a 2Ah cell might provide up to 80A). Putting cells in parallel doubles the C, doubling the ability to output current. And once past design specifications, we could talk about cell brands, degradation of used vs. new cells, pack balance, and a multitude of other factors. I think for doing this project it might be better to start with an economical name brand tool battery. This might involve digging thru the recycle bin at a local big box for cells and a BMS to salvage, or even purchasing a new battery to get the cells and bms (e.g. Ryobi 18v(20v) batteries might be a 2Ah for $40 or on sale two of 4Ah for $80, or a 2Ah+4Ah+charger for $100).
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I was using harbor freight battery tools ages ago. My father in law gifted me a Ryobi 18v drill and saw kit (the old blue and yellow ones with NiCd batteries). Still using those Ryobi tools now with Ryobi One+ li-ion batteries and have since purchased more Ryobi tools. The li-ion batteries were/are a great upgrade for tool performance.
That is a great explanation. Well done and thank you!
I did something similar, but I just glued the old top battery housing onto the top of the new battery after soldering the terminals together. It worked about as well as your first try. It was a harbor freight lithium battery: 16 bucks. No endurance whatsoever. . .
The reason why doubling your mAh capacity made such an improvement is you are overloading the cells -- drawing too much current. Normal laptop batteries are more optimized for capacity and not for ability to provide high currents. Normal power tool batteries are the opposite. A laptop battery might be designed to provide 2-3C (a 2Ah cell might provide 4A to 6A) while a power tool battery might be designed to provide up to 40C (a 2Ah cell might provide up to 80A). Putting cells in parallel doubles the C, doubling the ability to output current.
And once past design specifications, we could talk about cell brands, degradation of used vs. new cells, pack balance, and a multitude of other factors. I think for doing this project it might be better to start with an economical name brand tool battery. This might involve digging thru the recycle bin at a local big box for cells and a BMS to salvage, or even purchasing a new battery to get the cells and bms (e.g. Ryobi 18v(20v) batteries might be a 2Ah for $40 or on sale two of 4Ah for $80, or a 2Ah+4Ah+charger for $100).
also! i wonder if you could 3d print a larger battery case to fit a 3p set in there
im interested how many amps those batterys can take, like how would they handle a longer plunge through a big board