Yea that sucks, It looks to be really soft dirt you’re landing on so hopefully this is a one off freak deals. Last year I was able to get HRP to sell me one of the last gen Savage X 4.6’s that was brand new and had been sitting in a warehouse for 3-4 years with all the nonsense going on with HPI back then. It was $399 and they let you apply the $30 off coupon on HRP’s site so out the door all in it came to $370. They’re based in Utah so there was no sales tax and because it was over $250 shipping was free…..Absolutely the sweetest freakin deal. I told hybrid32494 who has an all Nitro channel and he was able to get the same deal. They wised up a few weeks after that and jacked that price way up. Dam I knew I should of bought two….lol Really enjoy the channel and just subscribed.
I bought one of these secondhand about 10 years ago. I remember everytime I thought I had it hammered out something would break / fail. I think I replaced every single wearable item and it finally became a reliable RC. I'm getting back into them now that I have two young sons. And I just bought 2 more Savages yesterday for $160 total for a couple projects for my 2 boys and I to work on together. Gotta pass on the nitro bug!
Your Nitro Start Wand surprisingly has a adjustable clutch just like a drill I had to turn mine all way up or it would just get stuck at TDC so wand will start slipping! Hope this helps. Nitro for life buddy... rip on!
Hi I was just wondering if the nitro is what lubes the engine and you have to prime it and the nitro take a little bit to accully get there. Isn't the engine basically getting turning over dry I see tons of people constantly turning the engine over and the car doesn't sound like it's even primed yet. I would think its wear out the engine faster. I usually pull the glow plug and put a small squirt of nitro in it on the first start up so I no it's being lubricated and so it doesn't take so long to start. But I never seen anyone else do this. I no on a real car engine you pull the distributor wire so the oil pump prime it before you start it or use a rod that turns it over so the engine lubed before you start it because dry start kill the engine faster. What your thoughts on this? Thanks for your time and reply 👍👌✌️💯🏎️
I use 3in1 as afterrun oil so the engine is lubed up and I was priming the engine by holding my finger over the exhaust to get fuel to the carb I see what you're saying but never had an issue before doing it this way
@@chefbeardsly I believe you and didn't mean you. I just noticed most people specially brand new don't or they don't show it or talk about in any rc videos that I have seen. I myself if not going to be ran for a while use transmission fluid just because I never seen a transmission rusted on the inside of it. I was just thinking about how many people could be dry starting there nitro and not even realize it and just happened to be watching your video. I'm a huge savage fan I have 10 savages and 4 boxes of all new parts and there not small boxes lol long story eBay deals. Dollar hobby 24$ diff complete. I would offer to send you the parts but you would have to built there individual gears/parts non assembled. Not easy 👍👌✌️💯🏎️
I've just bought a well used savage 4.6 , so dunno how old it is . What do I need to look out for ? Not got a transmitter or receiver yet . Not had a RC car since I was a kid and bought this for my son
I'd first make sure the engine is clean and has compression check the tank for old fuel in it if it does have old fuel that jellied up I use some break clean and clean it out
Have same issues w HPI. My original Savage was a tank. Never broke. Took anything I threw at it. Recently bought a G6 Savage Flux. Break after break with it. ESC bad. A lemon. Bought a Vorza w 4.6 figuring Savage was a lemon. First Vorza start the pull cord fails. Repaired. The 4.6 started right up but on 1st tank of fuel the throttle servo failed. I think no more HPI for me.
Metal diff housings equals no flex and a good shimming and no diff will break. Had my savesges since the original , pounded them like no one ive seen and after doing this i never lost another diff.
I am an Hpi fan boy and I own a lot of kits from Hpi prior to them switching hands . I always preferred them over traxxas ( which I think is way overpriced for what you get ) , those kits were bulletproof , still running them with little to no issues
great video, regards the broken rota start, from what I saw, you over-primed the engine, excess fuel in the cylinder then hydro-locked the piston, at this point had you had a pull start on and tried pulling, the cord would have broken, in this case, the starter rod snapped, to avoid any further issues, you only need to turn the engine over without firing it for 1 or 2 turns, the attempted starting will then suck the required amount into the cylinder
Run it lean its only gonna get leaner, also doesn't sound like your shifting gears at all, tune it when warm at half a tank to prevent low fuel leaning and strip your gearbox check your grub screws they (2nd usually) can work loose and they get stuck in gear like that..... Come off that throttle when you land.....
Sounds like it's stuck in 1st gear to me, alot of over reveing and not much top end. I have 9 of these savages from the stock 25 through to the XL K5.9 with a couple of Truckzillas in between. I have never blown a diif out on any of them. More than likely caused by bad landings which your short video had plenty of.
Got the older one, but now, iḿ also afraid. Wanted to do the first ride in snow here in Germany. But now, Iĺl await spring, maybe. Otherwise i got so much more Alumi9nium instead of your plastics....maybe i got a premium one, without knowing.
Yes.... everything in this video... Don't do it.... 6 tank fulls.. drive it slower to get all the parts to seat in.. i beat the diff was more oil then diff oil to help with the six tank breaking in procedure... then tear down the diff and put in ya chosen diff weight. Good video on how not to do things...
Great video dude. I guess quality control isn't what it used to be. I was thinking about buying one of these but yours is one in a whole list of failures I've seen. I think I'll still to my three year old Kyosho Fo-xx.
Get mine with rope starter instead of the roboshit thing. First I wanna have it too. But you showed me, what shit it is. Thanks for this. I have a manual transmition but no information about it. Can you help me with some infos about it.
They have monkey metal diffs even the screws are monkey metal. You need the upgraded diffs. They should be made of hard steal from the start though it's ridiculous
Great video otherwise! The bullet proof diff kits are fantastic as they once were on the old electric and nitro models!! They’re still good! Tank after tank! Go fuel cooler
My advice is buy an original savage cheap then just buy the few parts needed to upgrade it from my understanding there's not a massive difference in layout. I could be wrong though I'm sure you will know actually be interesting to see a teardown of new and old and see how much it would cost to upgrade an original keeping the original diffs if it can be done. If it is just a few differences then be cheaper going that route plus changing the Philips screws on original to hex.
@@chefbeardsly Cool so old savage, hinge pin retainers, the hardened diffs they sell and hex screws. Might be the route if you want one. I imagine it's much cheaper but not actually worked out the price. If it is alot cheaper put the extra money into buying adjustable third party suspension or even the link upgrades people sell there are plenty of upgrades can be done.
@@chefbeardsly Yeah would love to see that vid same with some other vehicles that only make small changes. As the rc world is a world where we all upgrade things and like to see what others do to their stuff. Plus atm with prices ppl want to save as much money as possible.
To quote NitroRCnerds, we really need to stop being "flatline bashers." Also, the Savage X platform has been known to have very weak sun gears in the diffs and as far as the diff ring and pinion, they are nowhere near "bulletproof" especially being sintered. The old and new Savages share the driveline so nothing is new there. There are however, a set of hardened metal sun gears available from overseas (china) that are actually good. I have two XL nitros and have the XL V2 Flux on preorder. When the XL 2.0 nitro launches, I'll buy that as well. These are great trucks minus some quirks and if Traxsues can sell people $800-$1000 trucks with diffs made from toothpaste yet get a massive pass from every, for profit, youtuber then HPI has done nothing wrong.
Hahaha yeah man I hate to say it but this truck is a fat pile of expensive shit. Two months ago I did the same with mine on baby jumps. They come to the buyer with poorly shimmed diffs. On top of the very soft metal they use. I bought some fresh ones from Jenny’s and shimmed them because they have severe side to side play out the box. Also broke some upper a arms on some really small crashes. Huge disappointment
I wonder why 90% of people who drive a nitro truck play with the trottle like a tongue on a clitoris LOL. I hope they don't drive their cars the same way :)
hpi seems to have gone cheap, they have options to put machined bulletproof diffs in it, that should be a damn standard. theyre in it for the money, im never spending more than 500 on a savage.
The reason the turnover driver broke is it's new engine, stone cold Steve osten and hasn't been broken in yet.. you are supposed to heat up the cooling head so the piston and sleeves expand. If you just turn it over from new and start bashing straight away. Well read the instructions. Nob
Yea that sucks, It looks to be really soft dirt you’re landing on so hopefully this is a one off freak deals.
Last year I was able to get HRP to sell me one of the last gen Savage X 4.6’s that was brand new and had been sitting in a warehouse for 3-4 years with all the nonsense going on with HPI back then. It was $399 and they let you apply the $30 off coupon on HRP’s site so out the door all in it came to $370. They’re based in Utah so there was no sales tax and because it was over $250 shipping was free…..Absolutely the sweetest freakin deal.
I told hybrid32494 who has an all Nitro channel and he was able to get the same deal. They wised up a few weeks after that and jacked that price way up. Dam I knew I should of bought two….lol
Really enjoy the channel and just subscribed.
I bought one of these secondhand about 10 years ago. I remember everytime I thought I had it hammered out something would break / fail. I think I replaced every single wearable item and it finally became a reliable RC. I'm getting back into them now that I have two young sons. And I just bought 2 more Savages yesterday for $160 total for a couple projects for my 2 boys and I to work on together. Gotta pass on the nitro bug!
Nice video but hearing that lean engine hurt 😞
SO lean……. Wow
Your Nitro Start Wand surprisingly has a adjustable clutch just like a drill I had to turn mine all way up or it would just get stuck at TDC so wand will start slipping! Hope this helps. Nitro for life buddy... rip on!
It's all the way up lol
Savage is pure fun! Nice guy!
Hi I was just wondering if the nitro is what lubes the engine and you have to prime it and the nitro take a little bit to accully get there. Isn't the engine basically getting turning over dry I see tons of people constantly turning the engine over and the car doesn't sound like it's even primed yet. I would think its wear out the engine faster. I usually pull the glow plug and put a small squirt of nitro in it on the first start up so I no it's being lubricated and so it doesn't take so long to start. But I never seen anyone else do this. I no on a real car engine you pull the distributor wire so the oil pump prime it before you start it or use a rod that turns it over so the engine lubed before you start it because dry start kill the engine faster. What your thoughts on this? Thanks for your time and reply 👍👌✌️💯🏎️
I use 3in1 as afterrun oil so the engine is lubed up and I was priming the engine by holding my finger over the exhaust to get fuel to the carb I see what you're saying but never had an issue before doing it this way
@@chefbeardsly I believe you and didn't mean you. I just noticed most people specially brand new don't or they don't show it or talk about in any rc videos that I have seen. I myself if not going to be ran for a while use transmission fluid just because I never seen a transmission rusted on the inside of it. I was just thinking about how many people could be dry starting there nitro and not even realize it and just happened to be watching your video. I'm a huge savage fan I have 10 savages and 4 boxes of all new parts and there not small boxes lol long story eBay deals. Dollar hobby 24$ diff complete. I would offer to send you the parts but you would have to built there individual gears/parts non assembled. Not easy 👍👌✌️💯🏎️
I've just bought a well used savage 4.6 , so dunno how old it is . What do I need to look out for ? Not got a transmitter or receiver yet . Not had a RC car since I was a kid and bought this for my son
I'd first make sure the engine is clean and has compression check the tank for old fuel in it if it does have old fuel that jellied up I use some break clean and clean it out
I have 3 old versions and never seen or had a dif go. what is happening to yours seems to be the common thing. But I still want one. 😆
What is the clanking when starting? My Tmax 3.3 started doing something similar while ezstart is turning it over runs perfect though.
nothing to worry about
Have same issues w HPI. My original Savage was a tank. Never broke. Took anything I threw at it. Recently bought a G6 Savage Flux. Break after break with it. ESC bad. A lemon. Bought a Vorza w 4.6 figuring Savage was a lemon. First Vorza start the pull cord fails. Repaired. The 4.6 started right up but on 1st tank of fuel the throttle servo failed. I think no more HPI for me.
Metal diff housings equals no flex and a good shimming and no diff will break. Had my savesges since the original , pounded them like no one ive seen and after doing this i never lost another diff.
I am an Hpi fan boy and I own a lot of kits from Hpi prior to them switching hands . I always preferred them over traxxas ( which I think is way overpriced for what you get ) , those kits were bulletproof , still running them with little to no issues
Can’t expect the sintered diff sets to last. You need to upgrade to the forged, or better yet, the machined bullet proof diffs.
Diff was fine was a shaft lost a set screw
great video, regards the broken rota start, from what I saw, you over-primed the engine, excess fuel in the cylinder then hydro-locked the piston, at this point had you had a pull start on and tried pulling, the cord would have broken, in this case, the starter rod snapped, to avoid any further issues, you only need to turn the engine over without firing it for 1 or 2 turns, the attempted starting will then suck the required amount into the cylinder
Nah that wond was already twisted and hanging on for dear life lol
Run it lean its only gonna get leaner, also doesn't sound like your shifting gears at all, tune it when warm at half a tank to prevent low fuel leaning and strip your gearbox check your grub screws they (2nd usually) can work loose and they get stuck in gear like that.....
Come off that throttle when you land.....
Sounds like it's stuck in 1st gear to me, alot of over reveing and not much top end. I have 9 of these savages from the stock 25 through to the XL K5.9 with a couple of Truckzillas in between. I have never blown a diif out on any of them. More than likely caused by bad landings which your short video had plenty of.
Facts
Got the older one, but now, iḿ also afraid. Wanted to do the first ride in snow here in Germany. But now, Iĺl await spring, maybe.
Otherwise i got so much more Alumi9nium instead of your plastics....maybe i got a premium one, without knowing.
Curious what’s your gap set to. I am building a new Rc with this engine 🤘😎
My gap? Not sure what you're talking about lol
Yes.... everything in this video... Don't do it.... 6 tank fulls.. drive it slower to get all the parts to seat in.. i beat the diff was more oil then diff oil to help with the six tank breaking in procedure... then tear down the diff and put in ya chosen diff weight. Good video on how not to do things...
It was already broken in lol did heat cycles I did a video on the break in so sit there in your wrongness and be wrong PS bet*
NOTIFICATION SQUAD 🔥 💯👍💯🙏
Great video dude. I guess quality control isn't what it used to be. I was thinking about buying one of these but yours is one in a whole list of failures I've seen. I think I'll still to my three year old Kyosho Fo-xx.
Great video????
I wouldn't let him anywhere near my Nitro's
Get mine with rope starter instead of the roboshit thing. First I wanna have it too. But you showed me, what shit it is. Thanks for this. I have a manual transmition but no information about it. Can you help me with some infos about it.
I love the roto start its so much easier lol my old wond was bent and was going to break anyway
Sic
Poor 4.6 begging for its life lol sounded like it was stuck in 2nd gear and The slipper clutch might of been too loose
It was to lean and the slipper is tight
They have monkey metal diffs even the screws are monkey metal. You need the upgraded diffs. They should be made of hard steal from the start though it's ridiculous
The poor engine more rich is better than more lean
I haven’t had a diff issue at all! Need your roto start battery charged and a richer tune
Great video otherwise! The bullet proof diff kits are fantastic as they once were on the old electric and nitro models!! They’re still good! Tank after tank! Go fuel cooler
Sounds like the slipper clutch is loose
They better warranty that btw. Your video is the proof.
How can they warranty that when it's ran through half a tank, full throttle, as lean as it was? Warranty won't touch that with a 10 foot pole
I love the braaap sound but man theres just something nice about just sticking a lipo in and ripping. Awesome video chef.
My advice is buy an original savage cheap then just buy the few parts needed to upgrade it from my understanding there's not a massive difference in layout. I could be wrong though I'm sure you will know actually be interesting to see a teardown of new and old and see how much it would cost to upgrade an original keeping the original diffs if it can be done. If it is just a few differences then be cheaper going that route plus changing the Philips screws on original to hex.
Yeah they are basically the same very few differences just screws the wheel hexs and the pin retainers for the pins in the arms
@@chefbeardsly Cool so old savage, hinge pin retainers, the hardened diffs they sell and hex screws. Might be the route if you want one. I imagine it's much cheaper but not actually worked out the price. If it is alot cheaper put the extra money into buying adjustable third party suspension or even the link upgrades people sell there are plenty of upgrades can be done.
@@richardhutchinson9646 yeah I know i have 2 old savages lol
@Richard Hutchinson it's for sure better going that route lol that's a cool video idea
@@chefbeardsly Yeah would love to see that vid same with some other vehicles that only make small changes. As the rc world is a world where we all upgrade things and like to see what others do to their stuff. Plus atm with prices ppl want to save as much money as possible.
I hate roto starts one way bearing go's or the starter spring and pin can beat a pull start
To quote NitroRCnerds, we really need to stop being "flatline bashers." Also, the Savage X platform has been known to have very weak sun gears in the diffs and as far as the diff ring and pinion, they are nowhere near "bulletproof" especially being sintered. The old and new Savages share the driveline so nothing is new there. There are however, a set of hardened metal sun gears available from overseas (china) that are actually good. I have two XL nitros and have the XL V2 Flux on preorder. When the XL 2.0 nitro launches, I'll buy that as well. These are great trucks minus some quirks and if Traxsues can sell people $800-$1000 trucks with diffs made from toothpaste yet get a massive pass from every, for profit, youtuber then HPI has done nothing wrong.
I think every company needs to step up their diff game I never gave anyone a pass lol
These things cant take jumps without a center diff... It keeps blowing gears everywhere
did you ruin the engine? got to hot ? 🤣 just having some fun with you, we all done it.
Nah it's fine was heading to the truck for the screw driver to fatten it up
Hahaha yeah man I hate to say it but this truck is a fat pile of expensive shit. Two months ago I did the same with mine on baby jumps. They come to the buyer with poorly shimmed diffs. On top of the very soft metal they use. I bought some fresh ones from Jenny’s and shimmed them because they have severe side to side play out the box. Also broke some upper a arms on some really small crashes. Huge disappointment
Lads - I got a refund. HPI is balls.
@@Conceivedintheeyeofasecret damn I was looking at this or revo 3.3
I shelfed mine because it doesn’t deserve to get bashed with how poorly made it is
The engine os not reving high its low rpms
I wonder why 90% of people who drive a nitro truck play with the trottle like a tongue on a clitoris LOL. I hope they don't drive their cars the same way :)
hpi seems to have gone cheap, they have options to put machined bulletproof diffs in it, that should be a damn standard. theyre in it for the money, im never spending more than 500 on a savage.
It’s not shifting either
She was all over the place she's buttoned up now lol
All new hpi stuff are crap after changing manufacturers... I have customers all the time with new savages never any old savages
Fack that slipper clutch is loose
Slipper clutch was not loose
The reason the turnover driver broke is it's new engine, stone cold Steve osten and hasn't been broken in yet.. you are supposed to heat up the cooling head so the piston and sleeves expand. If you just turn it over from new and start bashing straight away. Well read the instructions. Nob
It was broken in and 2 not my first nitro I'm aware stud muffin don't forget to hit that thumbs down. Nob hahahahahahhaa
ffs ...
4 minutes? Just 4 FREAKING MINUTES!!!!! I'm surprised you didn't THROW THIS THING
I kicked it