5 Tips For Better Brakes
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- Episode 505 Autorestomod
Brakes Won’t Bleed
Soft Brake Pedal
New Brakes
Old Brakes.
5. Check your hard lines/soft lines/bleed screw. The dirty secret is that if you are using stainless brake lines, you may have to tighten the line up a little tighter than with Nicop or mild steel. The issue being that the flair on the stainless is less malleable than the flair on the other two. Air may be getting in but fluid may not be getting out. Also, old lines are old, and replacements are available, Check for damage to the lines.
4. New/existing parts issues. In the last three master cylinders we have gotten, one of them was not well rebuilt, we had air leaks on the seal and some substance that was not dissipating in the brake fluid. Always bench bleed a master cylinder thoroughly before installing it. Also, on Drum brakes, make sure that the rub pads are in good shape. If they are grooved, you could have problems under braking.
3. Air in the line/Improper bleeding procedure. Start at the back of the vehicle farthest away from the master for the rear system and the farthest from the master fro the front system. Air is the enemy of good braking.
2. wrong parts/mix and match parts. Make sure that all the parts on the car are correct for that car (or are the correct aftermarket parts). This could be an issue of a former power brake car having been converted to a non power system, or a non power car converted to power. Wrong push rod etc.
1. Leaks. Wheel cylinders, calipers, but especially master cylinders and bleeder screws. Cars without power brakes will see a rust trail down the firewall inside the car if the master cylinder seals are going bad. Harder to detect on cars with power brakes. But the fluid is very bad for the rubber diaphragm. And when we bleed the brakes, the bleeder screws if too loose will allow air into the system, or if they are not tight enough will draw air into the system.
BONUS.
Old or low brake fluid. Our truck has to have a leak in the system somewhere on the front. As we have lost fluid.
I had an operator error on the other video and had the music in the intro too loud. I've fixed that and re-uploaded.
The younger guy is a great addition. He really knows his stuff and is more and more likable the longer the episode goes on.
Cam is awesome
Great video, makes me think I should check my old brake lines on my back drums. The weather sure looks nice there.
Has been. Last three days have been in the '50 to the '70s for a high
@@AutoRestoMod great video...get a dual master cylinder...I'm putting one on my Starliner especially in a daily driver!
I bought a SSBC 4 disc brake system for my wife’s 1965 Mustang. Rear brakes are poor, the front are good. I’ll try out some of ideas this weekend. Keep your videos coming!!!
Will do!
Great food for thought. I'm thinking of adding power brakes to my 1978 F100. Considering options, but just adding a booster is now off the table. Thanks.
You are welcome
When I rebuilt my rear drums on my mustang I welded the grooves on the backing plate pads and reground them flat. Nice video. Also watch which side you out your calipers on so the bleeder is oriented correctly.
Good tip!
Just for a bit of info, when I rebuilt our 70 Mach 1, a friend gave me a new single diaphragm power booster….wrong, felt like I needed to throw an anchor out the window to get it to stop! Had the original dual diaphragm power booster rebuilt and presto, you only had to touch the brake pedal and it would throw you through the front window. Brakes are now awesome and I was able to get rid of the anchor lol!
Nice!
Great video! Cam you are looking great , way to go with the noticeable weight loss.
Pretty proud of him for that! Thanks for the kind words.
Speaking of the production, you are really well lit despite the super bright background.
Guilty on the parking brake not working on my classic. Fixed it after my drum brakes failed. Needless to say I have front and rear disc brakes and a working parking brake now.
Sacred you into doing the right thing won't it.
Currently trying to track down a leak in a new system on my buddy's 1955 Chevy truck with all new brake system that we installed about a year ago. The front bowl seems to keep a nice level of fluid for awhile, then it doesn't!
That is odd.
Good tip on new brake lines being fully sealed. I bought a 55 Buick that had new lines on it when I got it and I’m having a hard time getting a solid pedal but no air when I bleed it. Hopefully that is my issue.
Hope so too!
I bought a 65 mustang which still had a single bowl and it was the first thing I switched out. still got lots more to do before getting it on the road though.
As do we! LOL
In regard to the manual disc brake Maverick master cylinder conversion:
I have a 4 speed 69 Cougar with manual drum brakes. I replaced everything up front from a power disc brake donor car. I used a new MC for PDB without the booster. It all worked well but the pedal was a little high and pretty stiff. Then I heard about the Maverick trick for a softer pedal feel because of the smaller bore. I did that along with rebuilding the DB proportioning valve and an adjustable brake push rod to get the pedal lower. All is good except the braking sucks and I can not lock them up in a panic type hit. The car does not pull left or right. The calipers and wheel cylinders were rebuilt. All 3 rubber lines converted to SS. It took 4 new not rebuilt MC's from Summit and NAPA before I could get one to bench bleed. The pedal does seem to still be a little spongey even after the countless amount of bleeding with quarts of Valvoline Synthetic DOT3/4 brake fluid. The tires are larger than stock 245-60-14 BFG all around. The car does not seem to dive forward in hard braking. I don't want to convert to power brakes. Do you think I should put on an adjustable proportioning valve? Replace the disc pads with stickier type than the Auto Zone standard?
Your or anyone's thought on this would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
One thing I do know is that the power booster pedal is different. If you used everything, that may be part of the issue. Feel free to email me and we'll work through it. jford@autorestomod.com
@@AutoRestoMod The donor car was an automatic. I kept my car a non-power booster system.
Personal experience from a '68 Galaxie that had a "new" engine transplanted into it, retaining factory power disc brakes, with new pancake-style booster. The booster needed several applications of the brakes before it "took". This was 1977, so not sure if this was a quirk, quality issue, etc.
Odd.
@@AutoRestoMod , hmm, so not common. Could have been that when the diaphragm on the previous booster ruptured (inducing a huge vacuum leak), foreign material got wedged into the booster's vacuum line, getting pulled further and further each time the brakes were applied. Lesson learned, check for debris.
They sell these to seal brake lines Copper Flare Gasket, SAE 45 and 37 Degree Flared Fitting, Tube they sell them at a lot of parts stores. I used them on some of my stainless lines to seal them
Cool. Thanks!
Good ending! 😂
Thank you!
You are welcome
Stainless steel lines take a lot of "OGGA DUGGA's" to tighten enough to seal, I have used a little heat on the flairs before tightening, this is with a new install so the metal gets a little softer and will seat easier.
Cool!
My emergency brake works, but I still only have the single bowl master. Everything is new on the brakes so Im not too worried about a failure.
Yup, right up until you are scrambling for that pull handle or foot pedal. 😁
Thanks for posting, good information to know.....
Sorry about the first post!
There are two things I hate doing on classic vehicles, Exhaust systems and brakes. So I'm heading over to my buddies place on monday to collect his 46 Chevy Stylemaster so i can work on it's brakes. Gah! Though something we have been discussing is a means of a dual circuit brake system with a booster. Now the master/reservoir is a combined unit which the brake and clutch pedals pivot from, so what I'm thinking is retain this so we are not cutting the car up, but mount a remote dual res master/booster under the car. Therefore the single res master will feed the dual res master/booster with a short line, however, the primary brake system will be a true dual circuit. Well, that the plan. lol
et us know how it goes!
@@AutoRestoMod Well things have not gone to plan, who would have guessed. LOL Anyway we've ran into issues with excessive cost of parts availability and shipping to the UK. So for now it's on hold until prices become more realistic. So went ahead and just renewed everything we could so the car is useable for the summer. Shipping has also put an end to my next project, an old Ambulance on an 88 Bricknose F450 chassis and cab with a 7.3 idi. I was buying it to turn into an RV, thought it would be fun at shows, but current shipping costs for parts again have made it unviable.
+1 on the soft rubber lines. My brother’s 69 Firebird rear brakes refused to bleed properly - I remembered the bit with old soft linings - suggested a new body to axle line. Problem solved 🧐
Glad for that!
Push and pray. The cable brakes on the old VW bugs
Lol
What is your feeling/ opinion on speed bleeders for the brakes
Fyi, you should tell the audience when the brake fluid starts to turning darker thats the inside of the rubber hoses going bad, and its time to replace all the rubber hoses as it could allow pressure to the brakes and lock up not letting fluid leave the brake.
Good point!
Ok then, how do you split the brake system to install a dual reservoir master?🙋
By following the rear lines and find out where they "T" together and add in a line and elbows that are needed. They will probably show a video soon. Also make sure which reservoir goes to front and rear lines. You guys are good at explaining stuff.
Yes.
I am restoring my High School car (1950 Tudor Sedan). Brakes on top project. I am using front discs with my rebuilt rear drums. Yes, I am using a dual reservoir-fire wall mounted. No one ever mentions brake pedal return springs. The original system had one, so should I make sure I also install a return spring?
Not necessary if you are doing an updated system.
In Texas if you’re parking brakes don’t work it won’t pass inspection and you can’t get it registered.
True. I can remember doing "end rounds" with classics so I could get to work. Not proud of it...but we was poor.
Good book from SAE.
called --"Brake Design and Safety"---.
Yup.
So I’m turning my 1970 f250 2wd into a 4 wd with the help of a 71 highboy frame. The 2wd had front disk brake and a power booster. The 4wd has all drum and no booster. Should I get a new booster/master cylinder and use the valves from the 2wd or just use a manual master cylinder and the valves already on the frame?
Easy money is on the non-power as long as the distribution blocks are in good shape.
When adding an adjustable proportioning valve, how can you tell which way to turn the knob to get more front or rear bias? Meaning, if I spin the valve all the way closed (clockwise), is that giving more front or rear bias? Also, if the valve is all the way to closed, is it 100% bias to one side, or something like 80%/20%?
Bias is equal, you are only reducing the braking of the rear brakes.
I put a disc brake kit on the dana 60 in my 65 f250. It has no provision for emergency/parking brake. Any info on a universal type kit for this situation?
That will be tough as the 60 is not at the top of most brake suppliers list of things to do.
Speaking master cyl, I bought a GM 409 reman MC with the 2 bleeders, the same that came on my 70 Z28 and bench bled it, installed it and it leaked at the back. I returned it for the China made MC that has no bleeders on the MC and is warranted for life as long as you have the receipt which I could not find from the last China MC I bought in 2010. The China made MC is $67 + tax with unlimited warranty and with the $40 core exchange it’s not a bad price. The reman is $167 + tax with only a 3 yr warranty. This doesn’t make any sense. I did find out that the Delco 409 remans are NOT sleeved and is why they leak. So I still have my original MC that came with my car and I will get it sleeved and rebuilt when this Covid is over here in Canada. Also the same place will rebuild my original smog pump.
I'm hearing a lot from guys that are getting bad master cylinders. Nice that you have a couple cool options there John!
"I've seen some sketchy stuff" Yeah buddy me too...currently rewiring my 72 f100 it was...nothing short of a fire hazard
Those trucks are almost always that way. Ours was so bad we rewired with an American Autowire kit.
Yeh wheel cylinder on rear passenger side on my F100 go figure.
Drivers side for us. LOL
Uga dga???
The noise an impact driver makes.
So you are saying that I should upgrade the single master cylinder in my F100? You were not clear on your feelings...
Always. 🤣
@@AutoRestoMod Lol. I am aware that it needs attention, along with many other things.
What bell?!
Next to the subscribe button under the video.
Guys give us a breaks please 😂😂😂😂
Often wonder what really breaks up a person and makes them not stop laughing.
You should never have to add fluid to the mastercyclinder, than lets you know that its time to replace the brakes
True.
To bad I can’t buy wheel cylinder rebuild kits. Government watching out for us.
Here in the states you can still buy the kit.
step one: DON'T spell it breaks!
Can I ax you abut your breaks...