Each to their own, there is no right or wrong way, I prefer using a light meter to obtain the most accurate reading at the time of shooting, I don't have a mind set of correcting every thing in post Raw. Mark I enjoy your videos and appreciate your willingness to share, your experience.
Yep, everyone has their way of creating. A lot of people asked about calibration and the analog scale so I made this series. I'm glad to help when I can. :)
Great video! Thanks for sharing! I wonder how you would meter for a camera like the bmpcc 6k pro because of the bigger latitude. Also the EV scale could come in handy much better than a normal f-stop scale. What are your thoughts on that?
@@ChrisKluepfel You can definitely calibrate for a much larger dynamic range. Use the “extended” profile method. th-cam.com/video/_EJq45V-KZA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=aEUqU_VfONi4IBLD
Bottom line is there is absolutely no reason to buy this light meter. You can get a Sekonic L308X for $239.00 at B&H or you can get a Kenko KFM-1100 light meter for $ 249.90 at B&H. The Kenko is essentially the same as the Minolta Auto Meter IVF, (no longer made) which I purchased in the 1990s and use in the studio to this day. It used to be the king of light meters. All of the bells and whistles on the meter this guy is hawking are not worth it. I've been a professional photographer for over 40 years and never needed anything more than the Minolta meter. I also have a Sekonic 308 which I purchased in the 1990s as a backup meter. I still have it and still use it at times. It's essentially the same as the current Sekonic L308X light meter. Don't get sucked into buying crap you don't need.
Not sure these meters have much use in the age of mirrorless cameras. I am sure some people still use them, but let’s face it this is a paid for TH-cam video
Do you SERIOUSLY use the meter like this with a mirrorless camera? Take one image with only ambient and a test shot with flash (which you did anyway) and that will actually tell you more! With mirrorless cameras this appears far to complicated, especially when you have the histogram. I use an old Sekonic to set the power of the main flash and get the ratios roughly correct. The rest is faster and more predictable in camera.
In camera histogram is just a gimmick, coming from 8bit JPEG interpretation and way too small and rough in camera to see something correct near clipping. Only computer tethered shooting shows usable histograms
Excelente Mark, espero más tutoriales sobre el manejo del fotómetro Sekonic
Each to their own, there is no right or wrong way, I prefer using a light meter to obtain the most accurate reading at the time of shooting, I don't have a mind set of correcting every thing in post Raw.
Mark I enjoy your videos and appreciate your willingness to share, your experience.
Yep, everyone has their way of creating. A lot of people asked about calibration and the analog scale so I made this series. I'm glad to help when I can. :)
Great video! Thanks for sharing! I wonder how you would meter for a camera like the bmpcc 6k pro because of the bigger latitude. Also the EV scale could come in handy much better than a normal f-stop scale. What are your thoughts on that?
@@ChrisKluepfel You can definitely calibrate for a much larger dynamic range. Use the “extended” profile method. th-cam.com/video/_EJq45V-KZA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=aEUqU_VfONi4IBLD
@ cool! Thank you!
Bottom line is there is absolutely no reason to buy this light meter. You can get a Sekonic L308X for $239.00 at B&H or you can get a Kenko KFM-1100 light meter for $ 249.90 at B&H. The Kenko is essentially the same as the Minolta Auto Meter IVF, (no longer made) which I purchased in the 1990s and use in the studio to this day. It used to be the king of light meters. All of the bells and whistles on the meter this guy is hawking are not worth it. I've been a professional photographer for over 40 years and never needed anything more than the Minolta meter. I also have a Sekonic 308 which I purchased in the 1990s as a backup meter. I still have it and still use it at times. It's essentially the same as the current Sekonic L308X light meter. Don't get sucked into buying crap you don't need.
Not sure these meters have much use in the age of mirrorless cameras. I am sure some people still use them, but let’s face it this is a paid for TH-cam video
Just a long advertisement for Sekonic with no skip button 😢
Do you SERIOUSLY use the meter like this with a mirrorless camera? Take one image with only ambient and a test shot with flash (which you did anyway) and that will actually tell you more! With mirrorless cameras this appears far to complicated, especially when you have the histogram. I use an old Sekonic to set the power of the main flash and get the ratios roughly correct. The rest is faster and more predictable in camera.
In camera histogram is just a gimmick, coming from 8bit JPEG interpretation and way too small and rough in camera to see something correct near clipping.
Only computer tethered shooting shows usable histograms