You know, I LOVE youtube!!!! I am a sheet metal worker(almost 40 years). I must have made a thousand of these fustrums,reducers,tapers,call them what like; and a good 3/4's of them I layed out by hand in the days before plasma machines.I have made them in every metal you can name( except silver or gold): I have riveted them(tinners rivets and pop rivets) welded,soldered and grooved the seam. etc. etc!!!! I guess I either love what I do or I am NUTS, because what am I doing in my free time? Watching other people on you tube do the same thing!!!
The bottom is fitted nearly air tight with the finishing hammer, drilled and riveted, and then soldered with lead free solder. The solder is done by painting a small amount of general purpose liquid flux into the joint after assembly, dropping a small length of solid solder into the corner formed by the joint, and then adding heat until it flows into the joint. This is repeated on opposite sides until the entire joint is soldered.
The rivets are structurally stronger than solder. This holds the pieces very well. Solder is then used to seal the joints. If I used heavy gauge metal the rivets would be sufficient without the solder. On other assemblies, I have use a welsh, dovetail joint. This is also structurally strong but is technically more difficult. Large pots that are going to run thumpers really need to be riveted.
The rivets are structurally stronger than solder. This holds the pieces very well. Solder is then used to seal the joints. If I used heavy gauge metal the rivets would be sufficient without the solder. On other assemblies, I have use a welsh, dovetail joint. This is also structurally strong but is technically more difficult. Large pots that are going to run thumpers really need to be riveted. Now will you be adding the welsh, dovetail joint in the next video?
Hello Pintoshine, I noticed that you used a rivet does it hold good pressure? do you follow-up with a solder for the joint to seal it? also seen where they used some type of "pattern cut out" or staggered joint then weld them together. What process do you think is best? Love your work... P.s. can't wait for it to get cooler down there. LOL Your biggest fan. Emoneyblue
I notcied your copper is pretty thick. I have a few sheets of 1.2mm copper and want to build a still with it. Can you tell me the preferred method for soldering the pieces... is there a certain type of seam I need to use for copper that is that thick?
you do better laying that copper down on a 2.5 to 3" round pipe to flatten out them rivvet Burrs . I made a lotta 50 and 100 gallon pots Using rivvet burrs for making Horse Stack and belt loops for leather knife sheaths
turn a top lip on your copper and roll it over some heavy wire like they did with old car wings makes it real strong turn a flange on both ends of your copper sheet and when you bring both ends together they will lock together no need for revits just small bit of solder
I Build EVERY one of mine out of 12 Gauge and 14 gauge copper which is the Thickest and most Durable, but also the most expensive copper you can buy...a big SCAM that's going on by a lot of people who sell their stills on E-bay. They'll say they're made out of a 16 OUNCE Copper. 16 OUNCE Versus 16 GAUGE= HUGE difference. to put it in perspective for ya...95% of the Stills you see that sell on E-bay especially are made out of 22 gauge copper ( as thin as a credit card )12 Gauge I use = 3/4 inch.
Also...many of y'all make not know this, but I'll give ya a little TIP. If you use E-bay or buy a Still or anything made out of copper for that matter, but Especially a Still being that's my little hobby..When you look on E-bay for instance. You may see the fanciest pretties looking things you ever saw in your life, but remember the most important word in the Copper industry. GAUGE. you coppersmiths know what i'm talking about. the Lower the Number, the Thicker and better built the still.
You know, I LOVE youtube!!!! I am a sheet metal worker(almost 40 years). I must have made a thousand of these fustrums,reducers,tapers,call them what like; and a good 3/4's of them I layed out by hand in the days before plasma machines.I have made them in every metal you can name( except silver or gold): I have riveted them(tinners rivets and pop rivets) welded,soldered and grooved the seam. etc. etc!!!! I guess I either love what I do or I am NUTS, because what am I doing in my free time? Watching other people on you tube do the same thing!!!
william dorn any advice for welding copper c110 thickness of 0.125"?
OMG, I love YOU! Sweetest comment ever! 💕
The bottom is fitted nearly air tight with the finishing hammer, drilled and riveted, and then soldered with lead free solder. The solder is done by painting a small amount of general purpose liquid flux into the joint after assembly, dropping a small length of solid solder into the corner formed by the joint, and then adding heat until it flows into the joint. This is repeated on opposite sides until the entire joint is soldered.
The rivets are structurally stronger than solder. This holds the pieces very well. Solder is then used to seal the joints. If I used heavy gauge metal the rivets would be sufficient without the solder.
On other assemblies, I have use a welsh, dovetail joint. This is also structurally strong but is technically more difficult.
Large pots that are going to run thumpers really need to be riveted.
The rivets are structurally stronger than solder. This holds the pieces very well. Solder is then used to seal the joints. If I used heavy gauge metal the rivets would be sufficient without the solder. On other assemblies, I have use a welsh, dovetail joint. This is also structurally strong but is technically more difficult. Large pots that are going to run thumpers really need to be riveted.
Now will you be adding the welsh, dovetail joint in the next video?
emoneyblue
How did you connect the top frustum to the bottom frustum? Cant wait to see videos on the rest of the build! Nice work!
Hello Pintoshine,
I noticed that you used a rivet does it hold good pressure? do you follow-up with a solder for the joint to seal it? also seen where they used some type of "pattern cut out" or staggered joint then weld them together. What process do you think is best?
Love your work...
P.s. can't wait for it to get cooler down there. LOL
Your biggest fan.
Emoneyblue
Damn where is the rest of the vids ???
I notcied your copper is pretty thick. I have a few sheets of 1.2mm copper and want to build a still with it. Can you tell me the preferred method for soldering the pieces... is there a certain type of seam I need to use for copper that is that thick?
Great video, thank you for sharing
helps when you hit the rivet don't it , , ive dine the same thing a time or to
watch the ornamental still slide show. it shows how.
Pintoshine do you build pot and heads for others?
Where can I get copper sheets?
How's the rest of the still coming along ?
how did you join the bottom to the zylinder?
Thank you!!!♥️
pintoshine do you build pot and head for others?
you do better laying that copper down on a 2.5 to 3" round pipe to flatten out them rivvet Burrs . I made a lotta 50 and 100 gallon pots Using rivvet burrs for making Horse Stack and belt loops for leather knife sheaths
turn a top lip on your copper and roll it over some heavy wire like they did with old car wings makes it real strong turn a flange on both ends of your copper sheet and when you bring both ends together they will lock together no need for revits just small bit of solder
I added a popup to the video specifying the location of the design templates. These comments are filtering url's
nice a stainless steel keg stem for your bending rod.
need a new drill bit there bo lol nice tho
What size rivets do you use? I think mine are way to big as I'm having trouble hammering them down
the rivets are 1/8 inch diameter
Is there a video before this one?
Watch the one about making the copper pan
I Build EVERY one of mine out of 12 Gauge and 14 gauge copper which is the Thickest and most Durable, but also the most expensive copper you can buy...a big SCAM that's going on by a lot of people who sell their stills on E-bay. They'll say they're made out of a 16 OUNCE Copper. 16 OUNCE Versus 16 GAUGE= HUGE difference. to put it in perspective for ya...95% of the Stills you see that sell on E-bay especially are made out of 22 gauge copper ( as thin as a credit card )12 Gauge I use = 3/4 inch.
Bryan Boy I call BS
12ga sheet is like 1/8th inch homie. Only 3/4" copper I know of is bar stock. Get them fractions right!
.032" around 20 gage
Also...many of y'all make not know this, but I'll give ya a little TIP. If you use E-bay or buy a Still or anything made out of copper for that matter, but Especially a Still being that's my little hobby..When you look on E-bay for instance. You may see the fanciest pretties looking things you ever saw in your life, but remember the most important word in the Copper industry. GAUGE. you coppersmiths know what i'm talking about. the Lower the Number, the Thicker and better built the still.
Make a whiskey still.