Fast charge cut off at 500ma end current? That would explain why your Lipo ended up being low when you tested it with a 2.2A charge. Typical current cutoff is 0.05C on a 0.5C charge. You were doing a 1C charge I think so cutoff current was 0.27C which just seems incredibly high. Don't get me wrong I love this charger but the amperage fluctuation bothers me. When we are in CC mode, I want constant. Technically, a fluctuating charge rate is not the best for lithium but at these small fluctuations I think its irrelevant. Using my 24V 15A power supply I tend to see bigger swings, the current fluctuation is the primary reason I watched the whole thing (and subscribed). Do any other hobby chargers do this? Have you noticed the M8S needs to be calibrated a little more often than you'd expect if you are doing any high rate charging that gets it hot? I think a slightly larger shell to incorporate one more fan would have been ideal but I never see the temps get too crazy....I do always have another fan (radial blow 40mm) supplementing the internal one so maybe I'm cheating.
Lets charge up to 18 amps *Battery you're feeding is already past 22 volts* Thought this was too funny. The second I saw those cell voltages I knew you were starting too high.
John another great video. I've had a M8S for a couple of years and used it basicly to put my batteries into storage voltage. I needed to check for Sbus on my Radiomaster receivers and behold you did this video! Perfect! I did not know all the functions this device could do until now!! Pateron here I come!!!
this m8s vs m7, "i watched your m7 video" did it get better besides ips screen and got smaller.? do you have any issues with 1S below 500mah people are reporting sensor output out not reliable below 2AH, i dunno much about it but that is what i want my charger to work at charging 500mah size 1S, lipo and HV 4.35v 1s packs so can't have it out by 20%.. please help as it is a jungle out there :)..i'm using generic chargers that come with rc's at the moment and feel it's time to step up so i can monitor things going on a bit better "with cell temp etc" also have rc cars mainly 2S..Thank's
@@RCVideoReviews Thank's for the reply, yes small packs indeed, for my XK k110s micro helicopter "s" takes 1s 450mah-550 packs..yes went to link and that charger would indeed work for me "looks nice does losi i need directly".i'm always trying to fit many variables into least amount of gear as i got like 6 different generic chargers for varied hobby things driving me slightly mad. LOL
hey there, I just got this charger and I was wondering if you know what the "Safe Exter. Temp." setting means. Can you plug one of those 1 wire thermistors like you can for the TB6B or other "4 button" chargers to measure battery temperature?
I'm pretty sure that's just an ambient temp sensor. I don't believe there's a port for connecting a thermistor anywhere--at leas not that I'm aware of.
Hello Sir, can i use the USB output to charge my Powerbanks and check the Voltage etc too? Like with a normal Lipo. Because i want to charge my powerbanks to 50 percent for storage. Thank you
Can you ajust the voltage / amperage of the power supply mode while it's on? I have the old m8 and I have to stop the output before I can change the setting.
I like to see the IR within about 2-3 milliohms and for a 2200 pack, less than 8. When I see a battery exceed those values, I generally retire it from operations and use it for bench testing.
Calibrating the current didn't fix it for me. When I set a 1A charge I'll see it bounce around from 800ma to 1.2A most of the time and that seems to be way beyond a calibration issue. My clamp meter supports the displays reading and I can say that confidently down to the 10ma level. The third digit (thousandths) I don't have a clamp meter that I can trust at all.
This is one of the best investments that I have made with my RC hobby. I bought the M8S ToolkitRC along with the power supply to feed it. Thanks for the video review and recommendation.
Just found your channel and I'm enjoying your vids very much (been watching your T16S vids, since I just bought one). Two questions: 1) what is a good storage voltage for LiPos? 2) Having a big problem with my Trex 450 (I know, ANCIENT ... but it's what I've got). Bought it from a guy who flew everything Futaba. He removed the Rx and I installed a Spektrum Rx. He said he never had any brown-outs, but I've had a LOT of them. Been TRYING to figure out what the heck might be causing it, but I don't have any spares to try. It came with a Scorpion ESC and then I switched it to a brand new Align that he also gave me. Browned out with BOTH ESCs. Is there a PROBLEM running Futaba stuff on a Spektrum Rx??? I don't have anyone to help me out and I don't know anything about this stuff. The ESC and motor are Align, the four servos and gyro are Futaba. I *LOVE* this heli and it bums me out that I can no longer fly it (it started browning out SEVERAL TIMES in a few seconds so I had to ground it for good). I know you're not a heli guy, but everything electronics-wise is pretty much the same for planes and helis. Thx!
Lipos should be stored between 3.75 and 3.80v/s. I'm sorry, I don't know the first thing about Spektrum. Sounds like you need to do some basic troubleshooting like: 1) Do a range check. 2) Make sure supplied voltage to Rx is correct. 3) Compare to other receivers. etc.. You have to find ways to eliminate pieces from the issue and you wind up identifying the problem part.
@@RCVideoReviews OK. Thx a million for the info; I REALLY appreciate it! I've been trying to research compatibility on the web, but I can't find ANY info. I even printed out the Futaba GY-401 manual and it says NOTHING about compatibility with ANYTHING. It's sooooo frustrating! Several other YTers have told me to just give up and buy a NEW heli, but I won't give up on the models I already have. I've noticed that sometimes the motor doesn't beep, or beeps very QUIETLY, when the ESC initializes, so my theory is that's something's wrong with the motor (I bought a new one). However, I have NO IDEA what a brushless motor does when it's failing. Could it cause a short? I don't see WHY it would. Maybe it's drawing too much current and it kills the BEC or Rx or something?
@@TechNoPhobiaGirl A failing motor definitely can draw too much current if the windings short for example. Do you have a watt meter? I'd recommend one for troubleshooting things like this. That said, I have seen motors go bad from time to time and there's normally some indicator. Like Smoke. Or Heat. Or Stuttering. The trick is to isolate your parts. Isolate the motor by using a different esc, different battery and test. If it works ok, then isolate the esc by using a different motor and different battery. Keep using parts with other known working parts until you find the problem. Don't be afraid of a visual inspection either. You'll be surprised what you can see.
The filed box? No, that's done. This charger will probably be the device I keep on hand when I build a plane though. It'll also wind up on my workbench alongside the iCharger.
How do I set regen discharge cut-off to 2.5V?
And why won't the target voltage for LiIon charge go up past 4.15V? 😢
Fast charge cut off at 500ma end current? That would explain why your Lipo ended up being low when you tested it with a 2.2A charge. Typical current cutoff is 0.05C on a 0.5C charge. You were doing a 1C charge I think so cutoff current was 0.27C which just seems incredibly high.
Don't get me wrong I love this charger but the amperage fluctuation bothers me. When we are in CC mode, I want constant. Technically, a fluctuating charge rate is not the best for lithium but at these small fluctuations I think its irrelevant. Using my 24V 15A power supply I tend to see bigger swings, the current fluctuation is the primary reason I watched the whole thing (and subscribed). Do any other hobby chargers do this? Have you noticed the M8S needs to be calibrated a little more often than you'd expect if you are doing any high rate charging that gets it hot? I think a slightly larger shell to incorporate one more fan would have been ideal but I never see the temps get too crazy....I do always have another fan (radial blow 40mm) supplementing the internal one so maybe I'm cheating.
Lets charge up to 18 amps
*Battery you're feeding is already past 22 volts*
Thought this was too funny. The second I saw those cell voltages I knew you were starting too high.
your affiliate coupon code says "Expired" in checkout for the M8S.
Hmm, this one works for me. www.banggood.com/custlink/KKKRJlHuKW
@@RCVideoReviews That one works! Thanks much.
@@mootzeroni Thanks for letting me know.
That video made me buy this awesome little charger. And I don't regret at all. Of topic question what is this tablet model?
John another great video. I've had a M8S for a couple of years and used it basicly to put my batteries into storage voltage. I needed to check for Sbus on my Radiomaster receivers and behold you did this video! Perfect! I did not know all the functions this device could do until now!! Pateron here I come!!!
Glad to know the material helped you! Thanks.
this m8s vs m7, "i watched your m7 video" did it get better besides ips screen and got smaller.? do you have any issues with 1S below 500mah people are reporting sensor output out not reliable below 2AH, i dunno much about it but that is what i want my charger to work at charging 500mah size 1S, lipo and HV 4.35v 1s packs so can't have it out by 20%.. please help as it is a jungle out there :)..i'm using generic chargers that come with rc's at the moment and feel it's time to step up so i can monitor things going on a bit better "with cell temp etc" also have rc cars mainly 2S..Thank's
I'm not sure either of them can charge 1s. In any case, I've never charged anything that small with them. For 1s I use this: amzn.to/3M03JfP
@@RCVideoReviews Thank's for the reply, yes small packs indeed, for my XK k110s micro helicopter "s" takes 1s 450mah-550 packs..yes went to link and that charger would indeed work for me "looks nice does losi i need directly".i'm always trying to fit many variables into least amount of gear as i got like 6 different generic chargers for varied hobby things driving me slightly mad. LOL
Best review.
1- all rounder charger
2- fast capacity tester
3- a decent bench supply .🥰
👍
hey there, I just got this charger and I was wondering if you know what the "Safe Exter. Temp." setting means. Can you plug one of those 1 wire thermistors like you can for the TB6B or other "4 button" chargers to measure battery temperature?
I'm pretty sure that's just an ambient temp sensor. I don't believe there's a port for connecting a thermistor anywhere--at leas not that I'm aware of.
@@RCVideoReviews darn, I would love to see that though on a firmware update, since the other chargers just use the servo port that they have.
Great review! I've watch other reviews and most missed major items this charger does.
Awesome, thank you!
You can calibrate it by holding OK button while plugging power
Hello Sir, can i use the USB output to charge my Powerbanks and check the Voltage etc too? Like with a normal Lipo.
Because i want to charge my powerbanks to 50 percent for storage. Thank you
Yes you can
Can you ajust the voltage / amperage of the power supply mode while it's on? I have the old m8 and I have to stop the output before I can change the setting.
No, it still has to be stopped, adjusted, then started.
for internal resistance readings on Lipo's what numbers should I wish t o see indicating all is good??....thank you.
I like to see the IR within about 2-3 milliohms and for a 2200 pack, less than 8. When I see a battery exceed those values, I generally retire it from operations and use it for bench testing.
The unit can be calibrated so the charge current is set correctly. Thanks!
Calibrating the current didn't fix it for me. When I set a 1A charge I'll see it bounce around from 800ma to 1.2A most of the time and that seems to be way beyond a calibration issue. My clamp meter supports the displays reading and I can say that confidently down to the 10ma level. The third digit (thousandths) I don't have a clamp meter that I can trust at all.
Hlo sit i had the same charger i just want to ask you while charging Lipo why Amperage goes high and so low.
The amperage should stay relatively constant during a charge. Define high and low.
This is one of the best investments that I have made with my RC hobby. I bought the M8S ToolkitRC along with the power supply to feed it. Thanks for the video review and recommendation.
Great to hear! I agree, I use my M8S all the time. It's an amazing little device and for the price...no brainer.
..gracias
You're welcome.
Just found your channel and I'm enjoying your vids very much (been watching your T16S vids, since I just bought one). Two questions: 1) what is a good storage voltage for LiPos? 2) Having a big problem with my Trex 450 (I know, ANCIENT ... but it's what I've got). Bought it from a guy who flew everything Futaba. He removed the Rx and I installed a Spektrum Rx. He said he never had any brown-outs, but I've had a LOT of them. Been TRYING to figure out what the heck might be causing it, but I don't have any spares to try. It came with a Scorpion ESC and then I switched it to a brand new Align that he also gave me. Browned out with BOTH ESCs. Is there a PROBLEM running Futaba stuff on a Spektrum Rx??? I don't have anyone to help me out and I don't know anything about this stuff. The ESC and motor are Align, the four servos and gyro are Futaba. I *LOVE* this heli and it bums me out that I can no longer fly it (it started browning out SEVERAL TIMES in a few seconds so I had to ground it for good). I know you're not a heli guy, but everything electronics-wise is pretty much the same for planes and helis. Thx!
Lipos should be stored between 3.75 and 3.80v/s.
I'm sorry, I don't know the first thing about Spektrum. Sounds like you need to do some basic troubleshooting like:
1) Do a range check.
2) Make sure supplied voltage to Rx is correct.
3) Compare to other receivers.
etc..
You have to find ways to eliminate pieces from the issue and you wind up identifying the problem part.
@@RCVideoReviews OK. Thx a million for the info; I REALLY appreciate it! I've been trying to research compatibility on the web, but I can't find ANY info. I even printed out the Futaba GY-401 manual and it says NOTHING about compatibility with ANYTHING. It's sooooo frustrating! Several other YTers have told me to just give up and buy a NEW heli, but I won't give up on the models I already have. I've noticed that sometimes the motor doesn't beep, or beeps very QUIETLY, when the ESC initializes, so my theory is that's something's wrong with the motor (I bought a new one). However, I have NO IDEA what a brushless motor does when it's failing. Could it cause a short? I don't see WHY it would. Maybe it's drawing too much current and it kills the BEC or Rx or something?
@@TechNoPhobiaGirl A failing motor definitely can draw too much current if the windings short for example. Do you have a watt meter? I'd recommend one for troubleshooting things like this.
That said, I have seen motors go bad from time to time and there's normally some indicator. Like Smoke. Or Heat. Or Stuttering. The trick is to isolate your parts. Isolate the motor by using a different esc, different battery and test. If it works ok, then isolate the esc by using a different motor and different battery. Keep using parts with other known working parts until you find the problem.
Don't be afraid of a visual inspection either. You'll be surprised what you can see.
3
Are you planning to stick any of these things you are testing into your "box"?
The filed box? No, that's done. This charger will probably be the device I keep on hand when I build a plane though. It'll also wind up on my workbench alongside the iCharger.