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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Part 2 - The Assembly
There is a ton to learn from this video. Both in how to put it back together, but in what to expect and look out for. What needs to be fixed, replaced, or restored will depend on any number of things that you will only find once you open the transmission up and take it apart. Most of the Jeep supply companies carry the inner components of the transmission but not everything. What I replaced was my Reverse Idler Gear, 1st and Reverse synchronizing hub, front and rear bearings, all seals/gaskets, most of the lock rings, and the needle bearings. Keep all of the pieces from your disassembly!! You might need to reuse them because you can't find a replacement.
Where I got my gears: bit.ly/2ZBtnhq
Transmission Overhaul Kit: bit.ly/3ugkJ5X
Excellent VIdeo. I am just using it to rebuild my 78 T150 for my CJ5 that I am doing a frame up restoration on. Question-- about the top cover containing the shifting rails and forks. The two plugs on the end. Did you re-use your old ones? Is the best option to RTV the opening and reuse the old ones. I can't find them anywhere online? Thanks again, your video are the most thoro on the web. I have or we be watching them ALL!!
Awesome videos thank you! Im rebuilding my T-150 and must have watched these videos 50+ times as I go along as a reference. Did you have any issues with the needle bearings? The kit that I bought the needle bearings seamed to be ever so slightly larger. I couldnt get the 24th needle bearing in, it was way too tight. Did you have this issue?
I believe I did. But I can’t be sure. Do your current bearings have any wear that is evident?
They were new needle bearing in the rebuild kit. As you stated, a lot of these kits are incomplete and inaccurate. I measured the bearing with a micrometer and they are in fact ever so slightly larger. I just went in with the old needle bearings. They looked ok.
@@johnjursic3582 that’s exactly what I had to do my calipers read half a thousand lager than the original ones that came out which is just enough to cause a problem I was slightly disappointed with the rebuild kit. I also had some thrust washers that were to thick on one of the idler’s
@@johnjursic3582 I had the same problem. For some reason I bought the complete rebuild kit and smaller kits. The complete kit needle rollers did not fit, so I used the other set. Even the 'washer' that fits on the outside of the needle rollers, the shaft did not fit through it --- found that out while trying to get the counter shaft in place (Crown).
I plan on using luca sae 80w90 gear oil which surpasses the specs of GL-5 which Tremec recommends to use in this transmission. Do you think this is a good choice? I see varying opinions everywhere. Some say use GL-4 but if Tremec says GL-5, I think Id go with their recommendation. Any thoughts?
The difference between the 2 is the chemistry of the lubricants. The GL-5 is a little overkill, but it depends on what you plan to do with the CJ. Heavy duty work would call for a better oil. And there is a little bit of personal preference as well.
One other thing I noticed on my T150 is that the rear bearing housing seems to be a slip fit into the case. In turning the shaft it had a tendency to push out the back. I made some temp brackets to keep it in place. I think the Dana 20 will hold it in place once mated back together.
All of these are good learnings. When you mate the Dana 20 with the transmission, all will be held in place.
I am having trouble with that bearing assembly sliding out did that work hooking the transfer case up
Do you think it matter which gasket is used? One will allow fluid transfer between the transfer case and transmission . The other one is solid. I couldn’t find any info on this. Any thoughts? Thanks
This is a constant discussion. If your transmission and transfer case have the channels like mine then use the gasket with those appropriate passages. If not, then go with the solid gasket.
I'm late to the party. Was surfing TH-cam and found your videos on the t150. So, rear seal. No rear seal. If you install a rear seal. You use the gasket that blocks off the oil exchange holes. If you don't use the rear seal. Then, you use the oil exchange gasket that allows the oil to move between them. Without the seal oil is going to move past the bearing into the tcase. If you hill climb, or rock crawl with the oil exchange. You starve the tranny for oil. In most common wheeling situations. It's not problem. Just if you pointed uphill for an extended period. I'm hoping that answers the question. I didn't see it addressed in comments.
@@toddmcelroy5600 that totally makes sense. Really good insights. Thank you for that. We all learn as group :)
The first smaller fork u put on was actually second/third and larger fork is first/reverse.
Yep. A lot of these things I learned about after some more research. Thanks for the info. It’s helps us all out.
Super Excelent Video, A1+ !!! My 1976 CJ5 needs a T150 overhaul, I will watch this videos until I feel 100% confident. Thanks for sharing your wisdom.
Thanks for the great video! I completed my T150 teardown and rebuild thanks to your detailed explanation of this process! I couldn't have done it without you!
I await your success story when you drive it for the first time.
@@coolguy_CJ7 I'll be sure to let you know!
If the previous owner lost the shifter pins, where can I get those?
I might have a pair. Let me check. Email me at dellis6914@gmail.com.
Great video, question, I have a t-14a 3 speed, I noticed there is a wiggle on the main input bearing shaft, is that normal? The vehicle I'm working on isa 73 Commando with 93,000 miles on it, thinking of rebuilding transmission. It was difficult shifting into reverse and first gear. I'm replacing the clutch and plate to while I have it apart.
What kind of “wiggle” are you experiencing? Is it more like “end play” or lateral movement? If you’re experiencing difficulty shifting, it might be worn bearings or synchronizing rings. My bet is the reverse idle gear teeth or synchro gear is heavily worn. The t14 is a very simple transmission, very similar to the t-150. A new clutch pressure plate and throw-out bearing is a must.
@@coolguy_CJ7 Hey thanks for the reply, yes hard to shift, I'm going to rebuild tranny and new plate and clutch. This is all new to me, should have done it when the body was off, how is your 7 doing? I got some diagrams off the net, seems my manual didn't have the T14 diagram in it. The hardest part looks like the roller bearings and getting the snap rings off. One off the shifter plates was broken on the side. I have a full rebuild kit coming in. The gears all look good. Thanks for the inspiration! Also shift rod bearing is missing on one of the rod's where can I find one?
@@wdautoclassics if you get a seal and gasket kit for it, they should be a part of that kit. Let me know if they don’t come with your rebuild kit.
Cool Guy, Correct me if I am wrong but don't you have the shift rails confused? The longer of the two with the dowel pin opening at the top is the 2nd and 3rd shift rail and the shorter one with the dowel pin opening in the middle is the 1st and Reverse shift rail. With the backside of the shift cover facing toward you, the 2nd and 3rd shift rail openings for the shift rail are to the right of the cover.
Are you referencing what I called them or the way I installed them?
@@coolguy_CJ7 What you called them.
@@jimfesta8981 Then I got them wrong in their description. If I had installed them that way, then that would've been a major problem…:)
What holds the rear bearing assembly from sliding out doesn't seem to want to stay
It seats into the transfer case housing. I noticed that when I was putting it back together and learned this when I assembled the drive train.
Also, the lock ring that does around the rear bearing housing acts as a brace so it does slide into the transmission case and sets against the outer casing of the transfer case.
The gear cluster pin install was a nightmare for me I ended up using a cherry picker and couple of small Chain falls to get it all aligned great video
Heya, got 2 questions, im going the same thing with my T-150 gearbox now, this video has been amazing! had 2 problems with the gearbox, it jumps out of 2th gear when its in it driving normaly, any clue wat that might be? and and the other problem is that it spinns on 1th gear, this that might be the Gear shaft thats not look so good anymore so it doesent go in the 1th gear as it supposed to. :)
My guess for the second gear would be a broken or worn gear teeth. Or potentially worn synchro rings. As a result, second gear never fully engages and “pops” out of gear.
Give me more detail on the “spin” in first gear. Is this when you let out the clutch? Or when you try to put it into gear?
@@coolguy_CJ7 thanks for answer, its when its driving in 2th gear
Accelerating, decelerating or cruising speed?
@@Jh-ux1qv if that’s the case, I’d guess that the second gear might have a broken tooth or excessive wear in one spot. Or your synchro rings aren’t enabling the gear to mesh fully. It’s enough so that the gear engages, but it slides back out while you’re cruising along.
Hey there! I'm currently rebuilding a t14. Since there are no t14 build videos I'm religiously watching this and adjusting for mine. I'm at the part of the front and rear bearings. The new bearing I got for the front had that metal protective coating on it and it's a bit sticky. I shot the other one with wd40 and it spins like a top, but I don't know if I was supposed to do that. Would you recommend that for the other one as well, or should I use something else to make it unsticky?
The Bearing is sticky? Interesting. Using WD-40 or a silicone lubricant won't hurt anything and will mix in with your transmission fluid flawlessly. As long as the bearing will spin freely and isn't bound up internally, then you should be good to go.
Thanks Cool Guy... I just finished rebuilding my T150 from a 1978 CJ7. Many great pointers from your video. Some things I found were;... mine didn't have an oil slinger, but rather had a rear oil seal in the rear bearing housing. My kit came with a new seal and 2 different rear gaskets. The rear of my T150 has no oil passages to the transfer case although the Dana 20 has them, sort of interesting. I did end up with a thin washer left over which doesn't show in any info. I'm thinking maybe a spacer where the slinger you have is as that is that's ID it has. Being that everything turns smoothly and no excessive play I'm not going to worry too much its an extra part. A couple other pointers is to watch what size punch you use to remove the cluster gear roll pin. I got mine stuck inside the roll pin and the only remedy was to cut of my punch tip. Unfortunatletly it was a costly lessen as in doing so I ground a couple gears on the cluster gear and had to replace it, ugh... finally the last thing I found is I used the Lucas assembly lube on everything. Made assembly go much easier. The one thing I found is it is pretty sticky stuff and was having trouble getting the syncro rings to spin freely. On the verge of disassembling everything again I decided to try oiling everything with some 80-90w gear oil. I worked the oil in and everything is very smooth. Thanks again Cool Guy.. tomorrow its time to tackle my Dana 20 with the help of your videos.. I'll up date them when I complete that one...
The oil passages is a whole conversation in itself. I’ve had people tell me I’m wrong and other tell me I’m right. Point is, both ways are correct. It just depends on what your transmission has and making sure to use the correct gasket for your model. The oil slinger/oil seal are also things that weren’t consistent with these transmissions. Again use/fix what you have.
Sorry about the punch. I never thought of that or I would’ve mentioned it. But others can learn from your experiences which is what this channel is all about.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video series. I just finished successfully rebuilding my T-150 transmission. Only difference is mine had water intrusion and was rusted stuck. All gears needed to be replaced. Still cheaper than having it done. On to the Dana 20 next! After that will be transplanting it into my 1952 Willys Wagon:)
I’m so excited to hear the videos helped. Bummer about the water intrusion. The great thing about the T150 is how simple and durable they are. Hopefully it will outlast you and I :)
I have a 78 CJ7 w/ the T150. (Still factory assembled) Getting ready to rebuild the trans, I will update with the oil slinger location. Thanks for posting this video. Makes me feel more comfortable tackling this job myself.
Excellent. Please report back on the oil slinger.
Just came across your video, and was wondering how the oil slinger is working out. Was installed the correct way?
About a year out and plenty of road miles. Haven’t notice a single issue.
Awesome videos of the tear down and rebuild! I appreciate you taking the time to do this and all your other videos! I'm in the process of rebuilding my T150 and was actually wondering about the oil slinger and rear seal you were talking about. I'm not sure what year my T150 is (bought it used and not in a Jeep) but my slinger was in the same position as yours and there was no rear seal. You addressing these things makes me feel much more confident that that's the way it's supposed to be as opposed to the possibility that someone screwed things up previously.
Glad to help. Some of these things haven't been screwed up by previous owners. It's always nice to find these things unaltered.
Thanks to your help we got my T-150 all rebuilt the other night. The old factory manual wasn’t great about details so it was very helpful to see each gear getting stacked. Managed to fully reassemble and put shifter back on before dropping one of the shifter “pins” back down into the case. Glad I did that on the bench not in the vehicle
Yeah! Success. Love to hear that.
Great video cool guy! What transmission fluid did you end up using? Like everything else, there a couple different fluids that are suggested online and it different forums. Thank you sir
Full synthetic automatic transmission fluid. ATF3 & 4 are perfectly fine. The modern fluids are really good for these old transmissions. So much better at friction reduction and constant lubrication.
Super helpful and easy to follow. I will be tackling this soon, my trans will not shift after sitting for several years (frozen in neutral) and was hesitant to open it up... after these videos I can't wait to open it up!!!!
Excellent to hear. Please report back when you've got it fixed. I want to know what you find.
Seriously good info for rebuilding shifter for my 79 CJ5, kicking out of gear, worn forks
Sounds like worn synchros or a chipped tooth. Let me know what you find.
I did a T-18 4 speed not long ago took out a auto and put it behind a EFI 300 6 made a huge difference .
Automatics seem to defeat the purpose in my opinion. Kind of like an automatic Porsche. Those should be illegal. :)
11/13-2023. Thanks for the very informative video! 1976 CJ5 T150 w/ Dana 20....my transmission has rear seal, no slinger.
Regards Stan the Man
I couldn't had done it without you!!!
I did the "Bronco low" upgrade to my Dana 20. That means I had to use a different Bull gear on the back of the trans. Mine had a rear seal too, but the new bull gear is not made to be sealed. So I used a sealed bearing in the rear of the transmission. Now I see maybe I didn't need to seal it at all. Im glad Cool Guy did this video though. It is the best one on the T150.
I notice you never cleaned the dust off after you sanded the rings. Your case looks nice good job sir.
Some of this stuff I edited out.
This was extremely well done. I don’t even have a t150 and I watched both videos. Excellent content.
As long as it's remotely interesting, then I've accomplished my goal :)
Super!!
Fun, isn’t it?
It looks like you powder coated the shifter level from the ball to the bottom that goes into the transmission. Do you see any problems with the powder coat coming off in the transmission? All the new ones pictured online show bare metal from the ball to the bottom. Just powder coated my shifter and want to know if I should remove the coating on the part that goes into the transmission. Thanks for your help!!
Been running it for about a year now and haven’t had any issues. Plus it’s just plastic. Won’t hurt anything really.
@@coolguy_CJ7 Awesome thank you! I will do the same.
There is no exchange between the Dana and the transmission on my 78 CJ5. Had a big seal, and separate oil. I have the same Tremec t150 and the same Dana 20 you're playing with right there. In the way you took yours apart is the way it should go back together because that's the exact way mine was from the factory. My t150 has a 1978 date code
If this was the case, then why are there holes and channels on the back side of the transmission that match up perfectly with the transfer case for fluid exchange? And the seal/gasket kit comes with 3 different gaskets.
@@coolguy_CJ7 yeah, mine's got that drain hole in that transfer case. What mine doesn't have, are any vent holes through the transmission, from the transfer case. I guess that transfer case could be used on either type. But my transmission is definitely sealed off from the transfer case. I think all these Jeeps were pretty much an afterthought, the way they designed them....
@@fuhkoffandie more than true. It will be interesting to see if this ever becomes an issue. I guess I’ll know after my next fluid change; in 30k miles. :)
Regarding the "slinger" ..., I have a 72 CJ6 and mine is on the outside. I'm getting ready to put mine back together and install, but need to keep watching your other videos to see if everything worked out for you with it bein" on the inside. Great videos!!! Love your detail!!! Exceptionally done!!! Thanks for explaining "everything".
I think we're good. The reason being that the transmission had never been worked on before and it came from the factory that way. Plus the dana 20 and the T150 share fluid through the ports on the back of the transmission and front of the transfer case, so there is no reason to divert oil. Also, it had made it 65k miles with the arrangement like this. :) I feel pretty confident.
Hey there cool guy. Lucky you're doing the same thing I am right now. Quick question. My rear bearing housing is very loose in it's bore. Enough that when I torque the end but the two main shaft pieces start to separate should I throw some strong glue in there or maybe a tack weld? I know it's not supposed to be crazy tight but I can spin it by hand.
Interesting. So the whole bearing housing (the big metal ring) can rotate by hand? That doesn't sound good. Does it look like it has been altered before? It's supposed to be a fairly snug fit.
Yep that's the deal. I may order a new one but it may be the bore that's worn. It seems to have been rebuilt before so hard to tell what's happened there.
Mine is doing the same thing. After installing the clutch shaft into the housing and onto the main shaft, I tried putting the rear bearing adapter onto the main shaft and the two shafts keep separating and I lose all my needle bearings. It seems that there should be something to keep these two shafts together. I initially thought that the rear bearing adapter would keep the main shaft from wanting to fall out the back of the case, but installing it doesn't change anything. Ross, did you ever correct your issue?
Well cool guy...got some insulation in my garage this weekend. Getting ready to get under the Jeep and redo my T150. This will really help me have confidence I have this right next time.
Congrats on the improvement to the garage. I did that last year and wonder why it took me so long. If you have any questions, please reach out.
@@coolguy_CJ7 - finally done! There is a place on this video that saved my rebuild. A snap ring I had was going on really tight and I watched your sequence closely. I noticed you ring was sliding right down the shaft. On closer look I was putting on the wrong ring in wrong location. Got it all back together and back in Jeep by myself which was no small feat. I was absolutely ecstatic when I finally started the Jeep and she went into first gear without popping out. I needed to thank you because this was many many hours and you saved my rebuild!!!
That brought a big smile to my face. That is the best news ever!!! Congrats.
Do you powder coat your own parts or have them done?
Anything I can fit into my double wall oven that I made, I powder coat.
I have a video on how to make your own for under $100 on my channel.
Quite annoying, couldn't finish the video
What’s annoying? Is there a better video out there that I should be basing your judgement on?
Matt, I don't see where his video is annoying. Probably the best video out there regarding the tear down and rebuilding of the T-150 transmission.