I bought one of these for my fascination with the 1950s without the chuck key and I asked my grandfather who was 84ish at the time and he just pulled out a drawer in his garage full of them and found one that fit lol he saved them from his old drills incase he needed one in the future
I have my Grandfather's drill which looks 80% like yours but I think is older. He bought the drill press attachment and the stamped metal attachment to turn it into a polishing wheel. It is acting a little wonky and needs rebuilding. Thanks for posting this. Mine is packed with sawdust and smells a bit when running. Great idea to make it dedicated. Mine will be dedicated to the Black & Decker drill press that was made to hold this model.
I have my grandfather’s B&D U-3, used sparingly by him and my Dad, up until the mid nineties. In fine shape, and I have the key. Will pass it on to one of my grandchildren.
The little pad at the rear end of the shaft is an oil reservoir to keep the brass bushing there lubricated, which is why there is a hole in the outer casing leading to it. The brushes will hopefully self-clean/wear-in and improve over time, so long as you got all the oil off of the commutator. I've seen better, I've seen worse, but I am no expert myself and it still runs, so s'alright. I wouldn't recommend using steel-wire-wheels on commutators in the future though, far too aggressive for copper or copper-based stuff.
I work with a guy who worked at the B&D plant in the early 80s - He said that they did everything under one roof, all of the engineering/forging/manufacturing/assembly was done at the same facility, something you would never see today. They would work three shifts and run assembly 24 hours a day. I think he said they would put out something like 20,000 drills a week.
My Dad still has his and it still works. Black and Decker went through a crap stage in the late 80's but quality recovered somewhat after. Make sure it's earthed. The carbon shedded from the brushes can cause an isolation fault and a zap as a reward!
You've given me an idea. My daughter who made me make her a space suit would love a laser blaster. I'm going to keep my eyes peeled for an old compressed air drill with an alu body... She will love seeing what's inside that for sure.
Turns out that the small felt piece is not sound deadening. It’s an oiling location. The odd smell you mentioned is natural. That’s ozone, which is common to brushed motors.
If you are removing the brushes you shoud mark there orientation. If you rotate one of them at 180* they dont fits as well as before so they produce a greater number of sparks. Therefore you have 25% chance to set up it like it whas. - sorry for my english ;).
Never, never never use a conductive abrasive for cleaning commutators. That appears to be aluminum oxide abrasive that you used which IS electrically conductive. Only use garnet sandpaper. Only clean the commutator if it has obvious burn marks or "tracks" on it. A uniform chocolate color IS the preferred look, not shiny copper. When you do clean a commutator do the least amount, only what is absolutely necessary to remove the burn marks. Use an electrical cleaning solvent, many aerosols available to thoroughly clean the dirt and microscopic bits of copper from the surface AND between the copper bars. The spaces between the bars may be recessed or they may be flush with the bars, it depends upon the spacer material and the manufacturer's preference. If there IS a recess then use a toothbrush with the solvent to thoroughly clean the recesses. Unless you are installing new brushes always make certain the same brush is inserted into the same holder AND in the same orientation. Swapping brushes or getting the orientation backwards WILL cause excess sparking until the brush again wears into the the commutator. This is also why doing the least to the commutator is actually the best. The grease in those old B&D drills is normally brown so that part is okay. I'd make some comments about your techniques but I already know how you respond to constructive criticism.
Clyde Fishface I'm not an expert, but I agree with you. Sometimes doing very little to something like this is the best idea. Sanding that down a lot could shorten the life of the drill.
Thank you for this because I bought one on those at their store today except I think it's a newer one and this helped me get the bit that was already on it off now I can use it for a drill now I can actually put an actual drill bit on it because I was not able to figure out how in the store
The "brushes" need to get used to the new diameter of the commutator as you reduced its diameter by possibly 0.001 - 0.002", that's all. I would have replaced the original grease as the old stuff may have very small metal shavings in it. Great video. Cheers.
I used to race 1/10th scale electric RC cars and to clean the commutator up on the motors I used a small lathe to skim it. This gives you a uniform, even surface for the brushes to sit on. I don't think you did any harm to the drill but doing it by hand too much would probably give you a low spot in the middle of the comm.
Some older powerdrills i have own have a noise surpression capacitor connected to the powercord, i think most of them are 0.08-0.1 uf, it helps remove sparks from the brushes, why not upgrade yours with one, if theres space
Rinoa - I love your videos - but please use the proper tools for the job in hand - a "Swiss Army" knife/multitool is not the right tool. They are meant to be used when one doesn't have access to the correct screwdrivers etc. whereas you do have the correct tools. Nevertheless, nice drill & video. Thx
I disagree - the right tool is more than the one that just works - it is easy to damage screw or machined heads using the incorrect tool - there is a reason why there are different screw head types - torque etc.
Maybe clean all that grease out and replace with silicon-based grease. The old gunk may be slowing it down. You are hilarious with the cussing! Reminds of my wife who is also very handy. I will get going on my B&D utility drill now that you pointed the way, thank you.
Nice restore you got that chuck looking like new, for the commutator, try adding a spot of metal polish and running the motor, the brushes willl polish the comm as you run it and make it really shiny, this is what you want as there will be less friction and sparks between the comm and the brushes.
You could, plus you would a get a minty fresh smelling drill as a bonus. And I think the word you were looking for was drag when referring to skateboard bearings and their ability to spin with a little drag from the lubricant.
i have never seen a old motor like that, that didn't spit sparks. i think its the age / quality of the brushes. might try getting new ones that can be made to fit off ebay?
That little felt pad -it's not a noise dampener! should line up with a little hole in the case, it is where you are supposed to add the motor lubricant and the felt soaks it up to feed the motor. I have an old circular saw and the manual says after every 15 hours of use add a few drops of machine oil (sewing machine, 3 in 1 etc).
I've heard that if you get oil/grease on the commutator it would be "ruined" I don't believe it myself, but maybe cleaning off the commutator with some rubbing alcohol would help with the sparking.
Not ruined but not a good idea either. Any mild solvent will clean it up. Carbon tetrachloride was the solvent of choice back kin the day but it has been banned (I think) for quite some time now. Any of the aerosol tech sprays made for electrical cleaning would be fine.
Rinoa, are there any specific bits of old stuff your looking for? I am in real estate and often come across things like this drill that people just toss into the trash.
+Christopher Phares im actively looking for an old german typewriter. like a portable one from before ww2. ive seen some like the Wanderer that have the öäp and ß keys and also the 1 key unlike most american typewriters. ive seen typewriters go into the trash before, hence why i say that. id buy one from you if you ever found one. if you ever send me anything thats not useful to you or me, i could always put it in my antique store booth for a low price to help the channel and keep it from going into the trash. if you find things like that regularly, i could even help with shipping. i feel bad for everything that goes into the trash that just needs a bit of relocation. but as for bits and bobs im really looking for, honestly i need to clean up my workspace more before i can utilize much more stuff. thanks for the offer though.
Nice video :) good idea with the 1500 grit sandpaper, you could always follow it up with some 2000 or higher and make it even smoother.. and as for the outside case, you could really clean that up with the same technique, it would take a bit of work granted but some 800, 1000, 1200, 1500 and then 2000 grit followed up by two passes on a polishing wheel with some compound would have that thing at an almost mirror finish! I guess the ageing does give it character.. depends what you fancy I suppose :) keep up the videos rinoa
You're going to have problems trying to get 18650s to power this drill because they require a massive amount of inrush current. Of your 287 input watts you'd be lucky if even 80 watts are going to useful work on the motor the rest is making a pretty light show and lots and lots of heat. Modern burshless motors (AC Drive motors if you can get over how counter intuitive that sounds.) are worlds more efficient and indeed they have to be to be able to run off of batteries. P.S. The cringe was real watching a commutator being sanded with steal wire XD
Doubt you were smelling the brushes. Maybe the ozone that a commutated motor naturally puts out from the arcing. This may also be helpful: th-cam.com/video/_opNhsiXzMs/w-d-xo.html Note the admonition against metal-bearing abrasive.
Carbon brushes always smell bad. Especially when they are new and are starting to wear in. It’s also a good idea with these old drills to get the old grease out and put new grease in them.
The sparking is normal, it is the nature or the beast. Also the pad under the big screw should be for light oil. A could of drops of 3 in one electric motor oil every 6 months or so will be fine.
Hi Rinoa great documented rebuild well done there. I love these older made tools, with there cases made of metal (aluminium), they were built to last and to be made serviceable. At a guess and a little bit of thought, the where on the plate it states type B it may mean domestic type, being as the plate all so states for domestic use only. by the way good idea being as you have several drills having this one set for wire brushing
Nope, only reversible drill motors have a hold-down screw. On non-reversible drills you open the chuck to the maximum leaving the key in the hole. Then using a plastic mallet or chuck of wood smack the shank (not the cross handle) of the key smartly and the chuck will spin off the spindle. It is a right-hand thread so it tightens the chuck to the spindle under normal use.
dam your brave just touching it after all that time i would of given it a pat test first check that metal body wasn't live,and i'd change that grease its nearly 70yrs old
+Dustin Taschwer sorry but im not really interesting or anything in person, im afraid youd be wasting your time. however its very possible to meet up like at a convention or something. i try to go to the Jacksonville Fall Festival in illinois every year, just fyi.
I think the commutator shouldn't be that smooth it's should be a litle bit rough maybe 400 grit If someone really knows how should be done please correct me and the wire wheel on the commutator not so good idea because copper it's softer than the steel wires ;| and really nice find ! :)
400 or 600 grit garnet sandpaper on the commutator ONLY if it needs it, which this one did not. A uniform chocolate color is ideal for a well run-in commutator. NEVER use a steel wire wheel on a commutator as it WILL damage the copper.
Rinoa Super-Genius its never a waste Trust me u Will avoid to break the Bolt head and it Will be easier to remove it (if rusted it Will keep being difficult but it Will turn better for sure)
If the multiple tests i did My Experience and My father's job (40y mechanic exp) is not scientific i dunno what to say XD anyway u have a lot of old tools and I actually love vintage things Like those, gimme some :D
It might just need new brushess. I have a collection of brushes that I accuired by removing all the brushes of every motor or tool that has to be trashed. And sometimes I get lucky and found a replacement I need from the collection. Good job on your vids!
+Julian Fernandez Barcellona yes its on the about tab of my channel. however i have more than enough victorinox knives. although is the one you have the Tinker Deluxe? i could go for one of those
I bought one of these for my fascination with the 1950s without the chuck key and I asked my grandfather who was 84ish at the time and he just pulled out a drawer in his garage full of them and found one that fit lol he saved them from his old drills incase he needed one in the future
I have my Grandfather's drill which looks 80% like yours but I think is older. He bought the drill press attachment and the stamped metal attachment to turn it into a polishing wheel. It is acting a little wonky and needs rebuilding. Thanks for posting this. Mine is packed with sawdust and smells a bit when running. Great idea to make it dedicated. Mine will be dedicated to the Black & Decker drill press that was made to hold this model.
And I have the exact same ratcheting 3-position screwdriver from him as well! Never saw another one before. I love old tools
I have my grandfather’s B&D U-3, used sparingly by him and my Dad, up until the mid nineties. In fine shape, and I have the key. Will pass it on to one of my grandchildren.
The little pad at the rear end of the shaft is an oil reservoir to keep the brass bushing there lubricated, which is why there is a hole in the outer casing leading to it. The brushes will hopefully self-clean/wear-in and improve over time, so long as you got all the oil off of the commutator. I've seen better, I've seen worse, but I am no expert myself and it still runs, so s'alright. I wouldn't recommend using steel-wire-wheels on commutators in the future though, far too aggressive for copper or copper-based stuff.
Thats the drill from Power drill massacre 💀
I work with a guy who worked at the B&D plant in the early 80s - He said that they did everything under one roof, all of the engineering/forging/manufacturing/assembly was done at the same facility, something you would never see today. They would work three shifts and run assembly 24 hours a day. I think he said they would put out something like 20,000 drills a week.
yeah things have changed quite a bit, pretty soon itll be back to that but just one employee at a computer watching the machines work.
My Dad still has his and it still works. Black and Decker went through a crap stage in the late 80's but quality recovered somewhat after. Make sure it's earthed. The carbon shedded from the brushes can cause an isolation fault and a zap as a reward!
Reminds me that of something that AvE tore down a while back.
"The old black n decker pecker wrecker"
You've given me an idea. My daughter who made me make her a space suit would love a laser blaster. I'm going to keep my eyes peeled for an old compressed air drill with an alu body... She will love seeing what's inside that for sure.
Turns out that the small felt piece is not sound deadening. It’s an oiling location. The odd smell you mentioned is natural. That’s ozone, which is common to brushed motors.
"fucken hell" l have literally never heard anybody say that other than myself. l am glad there are others out there who talk like me.
If you are removing the brushes you shoud mark there orientation. If you rotate one of them at 180* they dont fits as well as before so they produce a greater number of sparks. Therefore you have 25% chance to set up it like it whas. - sorry for my english ;).
I am gonna clean up a keepsake drill of this exact model, so thanks for the vid as it definitely helps a lot!
I find a heat gun helps move the grease around. Also take it off when it has become solid wax-like.
Never, never never use a conductive abrasive for cleaning commutators. That appears to be aluminum oxide abrasive that you used which IS electrically conductive. Only use garnet sandpaper. Only clean the commutator if it has obvious burn marks or "tracks" on it. A uniform chocolate color IS the preferred look, not shiny copper.
When you do clean a commutator do the least amount, only what is absolutely necessary to remove the burn marks. Use an electrical cleaning solvent, many aerosols available to thoroughly clean the dirt and microscopic bits of copper from the surface AND between the copper bars. The spaces between the bars may be recessed or they may be flush with the bars, it depends upon the spacer material and the manufacturer's preference. If there IS a recess then use a toothbrush with the solvent to thoroughly clean the recesses.
Unless you are installing new brushes always make certain the same brush is inserted into the same holder AND in the same orientation. Swapping brushes or getting the orientation backwards WILL cause excess sparking until the brush again wears into the the commutator. This is also why doing the least to the commutator is actually the best.
The grease in those old B&D drills is normally brown so that part is okay.
I'd make some comments about your techniques but I already know how you respond to constructive criticism.
Clyde Fishface I'm not an expert, but I agree with you. Sometimes doing very little to something like this is the best idea. Sanding that down a lot could shorten the life of the drill.
Clyde Fishface blah blah blah
Thank you!!
@Schwalbe262 No. Doing so would likely upset the balance.
Thank you for this because I bought one on those at their store today except I think it's a newer one and this helped me get the bit that was already on it off now I can use it for a drill now I can actually put an actual drill bit on it because I was not able to figure out how in the store
The "brushes" need to get used to the new diameter of the commutator as you reduced its diameter by possibly 0.001 - 0.002", that's all. I would have replaced the original grease as the old stuff may have very small metal shavings in it. Great video.
Cheers.
I used to race 1/10th scale electric RC cars and to clean the commutator up on the motors I used a small lathe to skim it. This gives you a uniform, even surface for the brushes to sit on.
I don't think you did any harm to the drill but doing it by hand too much would probably give you a low spot in the middle of the comm.
I have one of these still in original box.metal green ammo type case. Although the drill inside is taken apart. Everything is in place
Those drills are pure balls
Does it go in reverse because I can’t find the switch how to. Please help.
Wire weel + Kommutator = no NO!
Did you put the brushes in the same way, mine sparks a bit.
iv got the same drill. i spruced it up before and what ever i did recently it flipped the fuse in my house when i turned it on yesterday
Hi, I have the same model drill like your and I'm wondering what would be a good replacement cord for it, thanks
My old Stanley 1/2 Speed drill has that same chuck, it also has a complete metal casing, still works
Hello I have one of these drills it looks exactly like this but its cat u-400 and the plaque on top is red. Is it the same age as this one?
Some older powerdrills i have own have a noise surpression capacitor connected to the powercord, i think most of them are 0.08-0.1 uf, it helps remove sparks from the brushes, why not upgrade yours with one, if theres space
thats a good idea, i think i have some capacitors that size from an old power supply i repaired
My fave part of this vid comes at 4:59, been there, done that!
Put epoxy glue where the wires meet the commutator to support and protect them, otherwise they might come loose.
Rinoa - I love your videos - but please use the proper tools for the job in hand - a "Swiss Army" knife/multitool is not the right tool. They are meant to be used when one doesn't have access to the correct screwdrivers etc. whereas you do have the correct tools. Nevertheless, nice drill & video. Thx
Sasquatch it got the job done didn't it? The right tool for a job is the one that works
I disagree - the right tool is more than the one that just works - it is easy to damage screw or machined heads using the incorrect tool - there is a reason why there are different screw head types - torque etc.
the felt pad at the end is most likely an oil reservoir for a bushing and should be filled up with something like 3 in 1
Maybe clean all that grease out and replace with silicon-based grease. The old gunk may be slowing it down. You are hilarious with the cussing! Reminds of my wife who is also very handy. I will get going on my B&D utility drill now that you pointed the way, thank you.
Nice restore you got that chuck looking like new, for the commutator, try adding a spot of metal polish and running the motor, the brushes willl polish the comm as you run it and make it really shiny, this is what you want as there will be less friction and sparks between the comm and the brushes.
+gamerdude0 i could use toothpaste for that
You could, plus you would a get a minty fresh smelling drill as a bonus. And I think the word you were looking for was drag when referring to skateboard bearings and their ability to spin with a little drag from the lubricant.
Don't try to polish the commutator. A nice chocolate brown color is ideal and will happen naturally with use.
5:15 did you lose your victornox or why werent you useing it
no, ive just decided to keep the Wenger on the workbench. so its dedicated to that now.
That pad is used for oiling the commutator shaft
i have never seen a old motor like that, that didn't spit sparks. i think its the age / quality of the brushes. might try getting new ones that can be made to fit off ebay?
That little felt pad -it's not a noise dampener! should line up with a little hole in the case, it is where you are supposed to add the motor lubricant and the felt soaks it up to feed the motor. I have an old circular saw and the manual says after every 15 hours of use add a few drops of machine oil (sewing machine, 3 in 1 etc).
Just found one of these in my garage with a hedge clipper attached. Any idea how to find out if it's worth anything?
check ebay, but it probably isnt worth much unless you find someone who wants it
I've heard that if you get oil/grease on the commutator it would be "ruined" I don't believe it myself, but maybe cleaning off the commutator with some rubbing alcohol would help with the sparking.
Not ruined but not a good idea either. Any mild solvent will clean it up. Carbon tetrachloride was the solvent of choice back kin the day but it has been banned (I think) for quite some time now. Any of the aerosol tech sprays made for electrical cleaning would be fine.
Rinoa, are there any specific bits of old stuff your looking for? I am in real estate and often come across things like this drill that people just toss into the trash.
+Christopher Phares im actively looking for an old german typewriter. like a portable one from before ww2. ive seen some like the Wanderer that have the öäp and ß keys and also the 1 key unlike most american typewriters. ive seen typewriters go into the trash before, hence why i say that. id buy one from you if you ever found one.
if you ever send me anything thats not useful to you or me, i could always put it in my antique store booth for a low price to help the channel and keep it from going into the trash. if you find things like that regularly, i could even help with shipping. i feel bad for everything that goes into the trash that just needs a bit of relocation.
but as for bits and bobs im really looking for, honestly i need to clean up my workspace more before i can utilize much more stuff. thanks for the offer though.
Rinoa Super-Genius is there a link for your store?
What size chuck does this use?
i believe 1/4" chuck
Nice video :) good idea with the 1500 grit sandpaper, you could always follow it up with some 2000 or higher and make it even smoother.. and as for the outside case, you could really clean that up with the same technique, it would take a bit of work granted but some 800, 1000, 1200, 1500 and then 2000 grit followed up by two passes on a polishing wheel with some compound would have that thing at an almost mirror finish! I guess the ageing does give it character.. depends what you fancy I suppose :) keep up the videos rinoa
I believe you mean a certain degree of viscous damping is preferable.
You're going to have problems trying to get 18650s to power this drill because they require a massive amount of inrush current. Of your 287 input watts you'd be lucky if even 80 watts are going to useful work on the motor the rest is making a pretty light show and lots and lots of heat. Modern burshless motors (AC Drive motors if you can get over how counter intuitive that sounds.) are worlds more efficient and indeed they have to be to be able to run off of batteries.
P.S. The cringe was real watching a commutator being sanded with steal wire XD
Doubt you were smelling the brushes. Maybe the ozone that a commutated motor naturally puts out from the arcing.
This may also be helpful: th-cam.com/video/_opNhsiXzMs/w-d-xo.html Note the admonition against metal-bearing abrasive.
Carbon brushes always smell bad. Especially when they are new and are starting to wear in. It’s also a good idea with these old drills to get the old grease out and put new grease in them.
The sparking is normal, it is the nature or the beast. Also the pad under the big screw should be for light oil. A could of drops of 3 in one electric motor oil every 6 months or so will be fine.
Hi Rinoa great documented rebuild well done there.
I love these older made tools, with there cases made of metal (aluminium), they were built to last and to be made serviceable.
At a guess and a little bit of thought, the where on the plate it states type B it may mean domestic type, being as the plate all so states for domestic use only. by the way good idea being as you have several drills having this one set for wire brushing
You can probably replace that chuck. If you look down the barrel there's a screw
+diamened no need, it never needs to open again.
Nope, only reversible drill motors have a hold-down screw. On non-reversible drills you open the chuck to the maximum leaving the key in the hole. Then using a plastic mallet or chuck of wood smack the shank (not the cross handle) of the key smartly and the chuck will spin off the spindle. It is a right-hand thread so it tightens the chuck to the spindle under normal use.
Try putting new brushes in and then that should help with the carbon build up on the commutator
Sweet 👍🏻 👍🏻
ave must be drooling at this
The way the com bars were exposed to abrasion could have broken connexions..
:/
Nice video. Your work surface should be one color, like white so you can see all the parts so you don't forget nothing.
white will look blown-out on camera, i like this look. but black would be best.
The grease is to old it needs to be changed, and the gears need to be cleaned.
The brushes are made of carbon they lubricant the commutator all your doing is wearing the brushes by cleaning it .
+joetri1970 im fine with that
dam your brave just touching it after all that time i would of given it a pat test first check that metal body wasn't live,and i'd change that grease its nearly 70yrs old
Hello rinoa i hope some day to meet you in person.im a huge fan and always love to get the next vid.keep up the great work.
+Dustin Taschwer sorry but im not really interesting or anything in person, im afraid youd be wasting your time. however its very possible to meet up like at a convention or something. i try to go to the Jacksonville Fall Festival in illinois every year, just fyi.
New brushes
I think the commutator shouldn't be that smooth it's should be a litle bit rough maybe 400 grit
If someone really knows how should be done please correct me
and the wire wheel on the commutator not so good idea because copper it's softer than the steel wires ;|
and really nice find ! :)
400 or 600 grit garnet sandpaper on the commutator ONLY if it needs it, which this one did not. A uniform chocolate color is ideal for a well run-in commutator.
NEVER use a steel wire wheel on a commutator as it WILL damage the copper.
Why don't you do a room tour or house tour
+DsNester because i dont feel like doing it.
WD 40 always! And u Will avoid the risk of breaking the Threads and also soften the dirt and rust which makes it hard to loosen
ive never had much luck with wd 40, seems like a waste
Rinoa Super-Genius its never a waste Trust me u Will avoid to break the Bolt head and it Will be easier to remove it (if rusted it Will keep being difficult but it Will turn better for sure)
can you point me to a scientific study that shows this?
If the multiple tests i did My Experience and My father's job (40y mechanic exp) is not scientific i dunno what to say XD anyway u have a lot of old tools and I actually love vintage things Like those, gimme some :D
as if i dont like old tools?
You just need to re-seat the brushes to the new suface by using it.
+De Montalvo ive given it several hours of use and it really hasnt changed much
It might just need new brushess. I have a collection of brushes that I accuired by removing all the brushes of every motor or tool that has to be trashed. And sometimes I get lucky and found a replacement I need from the collection. Good job on your vids!
Also sometimes it's better to just use a pencil eraser to clean the carbon. That way you dont change the surface.
'place my bets'
A very interesting video, good entertainment. But you shoul get a screwdriver set, instead of the knife . cheers !
+Rons beers i have many screwdrivers, but id rather use this than hunt around and find screwdrivers that dont fit
Nice try see older tools still in use better then this new crap.
do you have a P.O box? Id love to send you a victorinox
+Julian Fernandez Barcellona yes its on the about tab of my channel. however i have more than enough victorinox knives. although is the one you have the Tinker Deluxe? i could go for one of those
I have an original swiss military training Pioneer Alox and an evolution wood 17 however I dont have a deluxe tinker, sorry.
AVE would be proud of you .
Wire nuts :(
My advice - leave well alone!
send it to AvE for a BOLTR!
+Adnan Mlivo no
haha just kidding lol
you did a good job!
I think that some amount of sparks are normal for that kind of motor, even have them in my brand new drill...
yeah i wasted another night trying to clean the commutator and the brushes more, i think perhaps thats just how it goes.
the brushes will arc less once they are worn in properly
+killernat they still seem to spark the same after several hours of use.
for god's sake dude, unass $30.00 and go buy a 1/4-3/8 ratchet set and a torox and screwdriver set of bits ....
+Dan Hess i have those already
Oh my god, what a bum!
Las herramientas que usás dan lástima
U did forget the first rule of fixing stuff "If it aint broken dont fix it".
you need more pressure on the carbon Brushes that is your problem!
This week on transgendered hoarders:
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Mystic Accending gy
Are you female?