I installed the front Isolator already. Now I will order the rear Isolator, video of other people took off too much. You simplified it, thanks for the video. We save money doing it are selves. The parts are costly front $100 and the rear $121 new. Thank again.
Thanks Man, learned your easy way to do this ! I did the front month ago still didn't feel right ,so did the rear your way and now : smooth as a baby butt ! This was on a 1996 FXD . P.S. removing the back tire is not needed .
I did not. I am not familiar with this procedure. I just compared all the rotors with and angle finder to check for alignment, and I didn’t have to make any adjustments.
It would be probably so much easier if you would remove rear tire I would. I own a 2000 Dyna Convertible. And want to thank all u guys or gals who make these very helpful videos. Lots of people who make these videos have saved me 100's of dollars. Thanks!!!
Thanks for the comment. I agree that it would, but a lot of people get nervous about tearing large parts of the bike apart. I wanted to offer an alternative to a large tear down.
I don’t know of anyone who has needed to shim and engine mount. But if you tightened the bolts up, and it appears to be stressing the engine mount one way or the other, I would consider getting some shim stock and making some. But my first thought would be that it was a poorly made engine mount.
06 FXDBi here, juiced the motor, so I switched to Kinetic Structure mounts which are better then OEM and doesn't require a brace to prevent Death Wobble.
Well presented.. I just stumbled across this video because, I just purchased a lower front chin spoiler. Its a bit away from the downtubes with the recommended mounting procedure. I wanted to better understand, potential ramifications of moving the spoiler's bracket to the inside of motormount vs outside/in front of.. The relocation would afford me an extra 3/8th inch back, towards tubes. Just needed to see if there were any obvious concerns of missalignments, due to the engine being spaced back, the thickness of the spoiler's bracket thickness ( 1/8 ) inch. It doesnt appear that there would be any critical issues ? I like your, tighten to spec, method.. Experience gets your, built in, foot Lbs dialed in..
You might side load the front and rear engine mounts with a 1/8 off set. I would try and modify the chin brackets before I did anything with the engine mounts.
@@KnobleMoto Thanks.. I took the spoiler completely off and saw that bracket didnt fit behind mount anyway, so me and my friend vice, changed the design of bracket. . I spent needed time to make it fit well. The spoiler is at least 3/4 inch closer to down tubes now. Almost exactly the same gap on both tubes and level. Didnt seem to effect bracket strength.. Appreciate the message ! I sub'd to your channel and will check out your other videos.
Brilliant! Thank you, hadn't thought of removing the shock bolts to aid access. I'm about to do the rear mount on a 2003 Dyna Lowrider, I fitted a Predator to the front, but still not happy with nasty vibes at the handlebars about 2000 RPM.... So ordered a rear mount and - just to be safe a top mount - link. If that doesn't help- - then sell it on! What a crap design!
The engine mount replacement actually reduced the vibrations in the bike, plus, It eliminated the high speed wobble that the bike was getting on the highway. I feel it corners better now, especially in higher spreed sweepers. Feel very planted and stable.
Enjoyed the video ordered out the front mount, it arrived, so i will change out today, i see you did both, i was hoping it was still good in the back plus the money is tight due to Covid 19? Well I guess i will find out after i take a test ride. thanks again you help us save money, the dealer chargers to much on thing we can do!
I do not knwo of an exact number. Mine was 14 years old with 40k , amd i was wasted. I would guess age is probably more of a factor than mileage. Not postive though. If it shimmys in a sweeper turn,it needs replaced
I installed the front Isolator already. Now I will order the rear Isolator, video of other people took off too much. You simplified it, thanks for the video. We save money doing it are selves. The parts are costly front $100 and the rear $121 new. Thank again.
Thanks Man, learned your easy way to do this ! I did the front month ago still didn't feel right ,so did the rear your way
and now : smooth as a baby butt ! This was on a 1996 FXD . P.S. removing the back tire is not needed .
Perfect, will do my engine mounts this weekend based on your video. I've got the same Supertrapp on my Dyna too!
Awesome!!! I really like that pipe too
Thanks for the video have a 2000 wide glide was wondering how I was going to get that rear out.
You’re welcome. It’s definitely not as hard as it looks.
Great video will be watching this when my rear mount arrives Thanks for your time
Glad it helped
Thanks! Going to change my front one tomorrow
Good luck. Once you get in there, it is pretty straight forward
Did you do the alignment procedure where you run the bike up on the jack with the motor mount bolts loose?
I did not. I am not familiar with this procedure. I just compared all the rotors with and angle finder to check for alignment, and I didn’t have to make any adjustments.
I'm gona give this a go pretty soon. This was a most helpful video...thanks brother.
Glad I could help
Is there any difference doing the mounts between 05-06? Or is it the same?
Yes. They should be the same for all twin cam Dynas.
It would be probably so much easier if you would remove rear tire I would. I own a 2000 Dyna Convertible. And want to thank all u guys or gals who make these very helpful videos. Lots of people who make these videos have saved me 100's of dollars. Thanks!!!
Thanks for the comment. I agree that it would, but a lot of people get nervous about tearing large parts of the bike apart. I wanted to offer an alternative to a large tear down.
But honestly, even with camera and lighting setups, the whole rear mount didn't take me more than 1.5 hours.
I'm doing my front isolater soon bike has 18,000 on her but was sitting a lot I'd rather be safe than sorry but runs great.
Have a safe riding season!!!
Thanks for the great info! Do you know who makes your low profile front fender?
I do not. However it is fiberglass and still in my garage. I switched fenders when I had it printed. Email me (link in bio) if you want to buy it.
Great video. Thank you
You’re welcome
How about shims? How do you know if you need to shim it or not? Thanks in advance.
I don’t know of anyone who has needed to shim and engine mount. But if you tightened the bolts up, and it appears to be stressing the engine mount one way or the other, I would consider getting some shim stock and making some. But my first thought would be that it was a poorly made engine mount.
06 FXDBi here, juiced the motor, so I switched to Kinetic Structure mounts which are better then OEM and doesn't require a brace to prevent Death Wobble.
I have heard that those are really good mounts. Do you like it?
@@KnobleMoto - so far I love them. a cleaner look than OEM too.
@@reppich1 good to know.
Better grab an oem one for when those fail. Just tossed my 3rd one in the scrap pile and sticking to OEM with sputhe stabilizers
@@antimatter7773 your third Kinetic?
Well presented.. I just stumbled across this video because, I just purchased a lower front chin spoiler. Its a bit away from the downtubes with the recommended mounting procedure. I wanted to better understand, potential ramifications of moving the spoiler's bracket to the inside of motormount vs outside/in front of.. The relocation would afford me an extra 3/8th inch back, towards tubes. Just needed to see if there were any obvious concerns of missalignments, due to the engine being spaced back, the thickness of the spoiler's bracket thickness ( 1/8 ) inch. It doesnt appear that there would be any critical issues ? I like your, tighten to spec, method.. Experience gets your, built in, foot Lbs dialed in..
You might side load the front and rear engine mounts with a 1/8 off set. I would try and modify the chin brackets before I did anything with the engine mounts.
@@KnobleMoto Thanks.. I took the spoiler completely off and saw that bracket didnt fit behind mount anyway, so me and my friend vice, changed the design of bracket. . I spent needed time to make it fit well. The spoiler is at least 3/4 inch closer to down tubes now. Almost exactly the same gap on both tubes and level. Didnt seem to effect bracket strength.. Appreciate the message ! I sub'd to your channel and will check out your other videos.
You miss the third mount/Balancer unter the Fuel Tank.
I know
Brilliant! Thank you, hadn't thought of removing the shock bolts to aid access. I'm about to do the rear mount on a 2003 Dyna Lowrider, I fitted a Predator to the front, but still not happy with nasty vibes at the handlebars about 2000 RPM.... So ordered a rear mount and - just to be safe a top mount - link. If that doesn't help- - then sell it on! What a crap design!
There should be a notable difference when you do the rear mount. It’s best to
Replace them both. But yeah it’s an odd design. Lol.
Do you have any review videos after the install? Wonder what difference this did or didn’t make in feel and function. Thanks
I do not have a review view, but I will be shooting one now. Thanks for the idea!
The engine mount replacement actually reduced the vibrations in the bike, plus, It eliminated the high speed wobble that the bike was getting on the highway. I feel it corners better now, especially in higher spreed sweepers. Feel very planted and stable.
Thank you. Excellent video.
You’re welcome.
@@KnobleMoto I replaced my rear motor mount today with your help and it made it so easy after watching your video. Thanks again! 🤙🏼
what torque should be used to tighten these screws?
23-27 ft lbs
What brand mounts are you using? Thank you
Midwest V-Twin. The generic ones.
@@KnobleMoto thank you!
@@erlandelle314 you’re welcome
Enjoyed the video ordered out the front mount, it arrived, so i will change out today, i see you did both, i was hoping it was still good in the back plus the money is tight due to Covid 19? Well I guess i will find out after i take a test ride. thanks again you help us save money, the dealer chargers to much on thing we can do!
You're welcome. My mounts were equally worn out at 45k and 14 years old.
@@KnobleMoto Wow what a big difference no more wobble, it looks like the back mount is good i am at 54k, thanks again.
@@Liveharley1 glad to hear it worked!!!
What brand motor mounts did you use?
Midwest V twin. Sorry I did not respond sooner.
Hi, how long is usually service life of the rear and front engine mount on dynas? thanks
I do not knwo of an exact number. Mine was 14 years old with 40k , amd i was wasted. I would guess age is probably more of a factor than mileage. Not postive though.
If it shimmys in a sweeper turn,it needs replaced
The manufacture specifications were, "hmph"
Exactly
I use the same torque wrench.
It has the finest accuracy
Remember it's a Harley, if the manual says it doesn't need loctite, use loctite
😂😂😂😂😂
Cheers bro
👏👏
Good job, helpful, thanks. Another way to skin a cat. Tarah!
👏👏👏👏👏
Do yourself a favor and buy true-track mounts. You'll never have to worry about the death wobble
But the wobble keeps it exciting. Honestly, with new mounts and proper belt alignment, I don't get the wobble.
Too many "uh" for me, I bailed at 50+ of them...
Uh, yeah. I uh wonder if that is uh why I didn’t get that uh Emmy nomination for excellence in TH-cam production.