I suppose once you've found your go to range, you don't feel the need to experiment any further. I've got around 300 to 400 bottles from Vallejo, P3, S75, GW, Monument etc, but I'd happily switch them out for a small range of dependable single pigment paints.
They feel really, really close to Kimera. Almost the same. I saw a TH-camr that put it plainly that Golden's behavior is uniform in comparison, and I feel that rings true. You know one soflat, you know them all. For Kimera, you have to figure them out. I never had a problem with Kimera in my airbrush, but I've heard that's an issue for some.
You’re adorable. Very informative about SoFlat. I like when you mentioned that Golden names their paints after the chemical/pigment, not “romantic” names.
Thanks Carol - there are limits, though, as some chemical names get too long to fit on a label and some historical colors have names we need to reference (like Viridian Green or Prussian Blue) at which point we ad "Hue" to the name to indicate that the color is a mixture...
Great for the mixed media artist as the tooth Matt paint provides is perfect to work over in wet or dry media 😎🔥😍 definitely getting these, a bit expensive but you get what you pay for. Great presentation
How does the tackiness of the film compare to the Fluids line? Specifically for hard lines with tape. Does this still require mixing with GAC 200 to get a hard line without paint bridging to the tape? Thank you!
The SoFlat Matte paints don’t require GAC 200 additions for masking techniques. The paint film should tear in a clean edges without the paint stretching. It’s best to remove tape and masking films as soon as the paint has dried to the touch. We have another video on creating crisp edges with acrylic paints - you might find this information helpful as well: th-cam.com/video/EN5imC8vf8w/w-d-xo.html
i love the fluorescent flat paints and have used them for many projects, but i am frustrated as to why there is no fluorescent blue in the flat line? was it too difficult to make? could I compensate by mixing a flat medium with the florescent gloss/open paints?
You can try to add some Super Matte Medium to the other lines of Fluorescent Blue - 1 part paint to 1 part medium. You may also need to add a 10% Retarder and/or water to modify feel and working time. This should help the mixture stay wet longer so they have more time to level better. Alternatively, you can try Color Pouring Medium Matte - 1 part paint to 1 part CPMM for a matte, level result. But, these additions will increase transparency of the Fluorescent color, so it may take several coats to become an opaque looking layer.
These are my favorite!! Just can't get enough. I love all your paints. I do have a question, Are the golden FLUID being discontinued?? Someone mentioned that and I wanted to come straight to you guys. Please advise 🙏 Thank you
Hi. I need some guidance. I work on ready-made canvases, and I assume they are all prepped etc., so I do not put any extra coat on them before starting to paint. So far it has worked well for me. But what I have noticed with SoFlat is that these paints tend to have some invisible bubbles that pop later on while drying, leaving tiny 1/4mm white dots all over my work, and because I mix the paints together, it's hard to get back to that same exact shade to fix it after few days. Is there any prep work I can do on blank canvas before painting to avoid that? I really need the advice.
Hi! We also got your email and are responding there as well. Generally, some things to keep in mind that can affect bubbles is viscosity, tool of application and surface. If you mix up paints it can help to allow time for foam to release before application. Slightly diluting the application with water can help lower viscosity so foam dissipates easier if you find it is thick and holding foam due to thickness. Having a soft synthetic brush helps as well as this can reduce surface friction that can generate foam while brushing the paints out. Absorbent surfaces that have some tooth can also increase drag which can generate foam as well, you could try adding some slickness with a gloss medium first to see if this helps. It will change the feel when applying SoFlat, but it can help reduce texture and absorbency slightly. More from us via email as well!
Hi, are the colours pretty well matched to the high flow range? I paint 3d miniatures, so need paints with a variety of properties, but all must be self leveling.
Hello Mikey, the colors across our Heavy Body, Fluid, OPEN and High Flow lines are pretty well matched. Because of the increased opacity of SoFlat colors, they aren't as well matched. They are very close in a few cases, so you may want to make a color-by-color assessment when matching our other acrylic colors to SoFlat.
I just got some of these for wargame miniatures but the instructions suggest I shouldnt touch the paint. Is it ok to touch if I seal it with a Matte spray? My kids will be handling finished miniatures so i just want to make sure they are safe once sealed. I know this is probably a "duh" moment but my paint knowlage is miniscule at best and I wont risk it till I know for sure. Ive tried searching the internet and can identify specific compounds now but I find absolutely nothing on the matter if its ok to touch when sealed with matte uv clear spray. Again I know this is probably a "duh" moment but I just cant risk my kiddos. 🙂
We recommend to not use any cadmium pigments on objects that will be handled. A clear sprayed topcoat you are comfortable using should be fine for private use. In terms of aesthetics, any topcoat will change the appearance of the SoFlat Matte paints, usually shifting color values and making them a little darker and more saturated. Even matte varnishes tend to increase the sheen on the SoFlat Matte colors. Ideally, test the topcoat on a sacrificial surface.
I am painting on clay board with Princeton heritage 4050 brushes and still seeing brush marks with the soflat. It does seem to dry almost instantly and this creates a drag on my brush. Do you think that’s why the strokes are being imprinted? Maybe a less absorbent board would be good?
Hello Dane, thanks for choosing GOLDEN SoFlat - drying time will impact the leveling quality, you might try preparing the clay board with an acrylic medium before applying SoFlat to see if that helps with drying time. If the overall conditions are such that the paint still dries to fast you may consider incorporating a slower drying medium like Satin Glazing Liquid or one of the OPEN Matte Fluid Medium.
@@GoldenPaints what surface do you recommend the most to achieve that flat effect without brush strokes? I like to work with fine pen but can’t find a smooth surface suitable for both!
@@GoldenPaints he means a dropper bottle - almost like an eye dropper. This is the standard container for miniature paints. In general, miniature specific paints are geared towards less artistically inclined people who want to get the models painted, which means pre-thinned, and multiple pigments per paint to give a wide variety of colors. This is of course quite limiting for the more advanced painters who want more control over their paints. Miniature artists probably will never need as much paint as what comes in your smallest container so a smaller dropper bottle would be ideal. If you get your business people to look into the price/ml of miniature paint, I'm sure you guys would be happy to compete!
Hello and thank you for your question. Please email help@goldenpaints.com so we can better investigate what might be happening. We look forward to hearing from you soon!
The Miniature Painting Hobby is huge. If you put these in smaller squeeze bottles and add more colors to the line, the miniature hobby painters would buy more. I would like to try these, but the current size of the containers (= cost) and not being small squeeze bottles is stopping me. Most miniature hobby paints are in .5 - 2 ounce squeeze bottles. I think 1/2 ounce squeeze bottles would be a perfect size and price. Even your smallest 2 ounce jars for most of the SoFlat are too expensive for the typical hobby painter. We like a lot of colors. :) Vince Venturella, a Miniature Hobby Painter showcases SoFlat : th-cam.com/video/__WT-HEffNQ/w-d-xo.html
This paint is amazing for wargame miniatures. Hands down best on the market if you don't mind mixing colors.
Have you tried Kimera? How do these compare? Are they good for base coats, layering and glazing?
@@Zolerous I haven’t used kimera, but these can be used for layering, glazing, base coating with two thin coats, air brush, etc. very versatile.
I suppose once you've found your go to range, you don't feel the need to experiment any further.
I've got around 300 to 400 bottles from Vallejo, P3, S75, GW, Monument etc, but I'd happily switch them out for a small range of dependable single pigment paints.
They feel really, really close to Kimera. Almost the same. I saw a TH-camr that put it plainly that Golden's behavior is uniform in comparison, and I feel that rings true. You know one soflat, you know them all. For Kimera, you have to figure them out. I never had a problem with Kimera in my airbrush, but I've heard that's an issue for some.
You’re adorable. Very informative about SoFlat. I like when you mentioned that Golden names their paints after the chemical/pigment, not “romantic” names.
Thanks Carol - there are limits, though, as some chemical names get too long to fit on a label and some historical colors have names we need to reference (like Viridian Green or Prussian Blue) at which point we ad "Hue" to the name to indicate that the color is a mixture...
I wasn’t able to join the Q&A, but found this informative video on the Golden paints very helpful. Thank you 🙏🏻 🎨 🖌
Great for the mixed media artist as the tooth Matt paint provides is perfect to work over in wet or dry media 😎🔥😍 definitely getting these, a bit expensive but you get what you pay for. Great presentation
I’m a huge fan of these paints!
Do you plan on packaging the fluorescents together at some point in the future?
How does the tackiness of the film compare to the Fluids line? Specifically for hard lines with tape. Does this still require mixing with GAC 200 to get a hard line without paint bridging to the tape? Thank you!
The SoFlat Matte paints don’t require GAC 200 additions for masking techniques. The paint film should tear in a clean edges without the paint stretching. It’s best to remove tape and masking films as soon as the paint has dried to the touch. We have another video on creating crisp edges with acrylic paints - you might find this information helpful as well: th-cam.com/video/EN5imC8vf8w/w-d-xo.html
i love the fluorescent flat paints and have used them for many projects, but i am frustrated as to why there is no fluorescent blue in the flat line? was it too difficult to make? could I compensate by mixing a flat medium with the florescent gloss/open paints?
You can try to add some Super Matte Medium to the other lines of Fluorescent Blue - 1 part paint to 1 part medium. You may also need to add a 10% Retarder and/or water to modify feel and working time. This should help the mixture stay wet longer so they have more time to level better. Alternatively, you can try Color Pouring Medium Matte - 1 part paint to 1 part CPMM for a matte, level result. But, these additions will increase transparency of the Fluorescent color, so it may take several coats to become an opaque looking layer.
Very informative and helpful
These are my favorite!! Just can't get enough. I love all your paints. I do have a question, Are the golden FLUID being discontinued?? Someone mentioned that and I wanted to come straight to you guys. Please advise 🙏 Thank you
Hello Maggie! Quite the contrary - GOLDEN Fluid Acrylic Colors are NOT being discontinued - we're expanding our Fluid offering (details later).
@@GoldenPaints THANK YOU! I'm not sure why this rumor is going around. Can't wait to see more.
Hi. I need some guidance. I work on ready-made canvases, and I assume they are all prepped etc., so I do not put any extra coat on them before starting to paint. So far it has worked well for me. But what I have noticed with SoFlat is that these paints tend to have some invisible bubbles that pop later on while drying, leaving tiny 1/4mm white dots all over my work, and because I mix the paints together, it's hard to get back to that same exact shade to fix it after few days. Is there any prep work I can do on blank canvas before painting to avoid that? I really need the advice.
Hi! We also got your email and are responding there as well. Generally, some things to keep in mind that can affect bubbles is viscosity, tool of application and surface. If you mix up paints it can help to allow time for foam to release before application. Slightly diluting the application with water can help lower viscosity so foam dissipates easier if you find it is thick and holding foam due to thickness. Having a soft synthetic brush helps as well as this can reduce surface friction that can generate foam while brushing the paints out. Absorbent surfaces that have some tooth can also increase drag which can generate foam as well, you could try adding some slickness with a gloss medium first to see if this helps. It will change the feel when applying SoFlat, but it can help reduce texture and absorbency slightly. More from us via email as well!
Hi, are the colours pretty well matched to the high flow range? I paint 3d miniatures, so need paints with a variety of properties, but all must be self leveling.
Hello Mikey, the colors across our Heavy Body, Fluid, OPEN and High Flow lines are pretty well matched. Because of the increased opacity of SoFlat colors, they aren't as well matched. They are very close in a few cases, so you may want to make a color-by-color assessment when matching our other acrylic colors to SoFlat.
I just got some of these for wargame miniatures but the instructions suggest I shouldnt touch the paint. Is it ok to touch if I seal it with a Matte spray? My kids will be handling finished miniatures so i just want to make sure they are safe once sealed. I know this is probably a "duh" moment but my paint knowlage is miniscule at best and I wont risk it till I know for sure. Ive tried searching the internet and can identify specific compounds now but I find absolutely nothing on the matter if its ok to touch when sealed with matte uv clear spray. Again I know this is probably a "duh" moment but I just cant risk my kiddos. 🙂
We recommend to not use any cadmium pigments on objects that will be handled. A clear sprayed topcoat you are comfortable using should be fine for private use.
In terms of aesthetics, any topcoat will change the appearance of the SoFlat Matte paints, usually shifting color values and making them a little darker and more saturated. Even matte varnishes tend to increase the sheen on the SoFlat Matte colors. Ideally, test the topcoat on a sacrificial surface.
These paints seems to be taking the miniature hobby painting scene by storm, was this something you had considered when developing these paints?
It was not, but we are very happy that artists who are painting miniatures are finding SoFlat and enjoying the paint!
I am painting on clay board with Princeton heritage 4050 brushes and still seeing brush marks with the soflat. It does seem to dry almost instantly and this creates a drag on my brush. Do you think that’s why the strokes are being imprinted? Maybe a less absorbent board would be good?
Hello Dane, thanks for choosing GOLDEN SoFlat - drying time will impact the leveling quality, you might try preparing the clay board with an acrylic medium before applying SoFlat to see if that helps with drying time. If the overall conditions are such that the paint still dries to fast you may consider incorporating a slower drying medium like Satin Glazing Liquid or one of the OPEN Matte Fluid Medium.
@@GoldenPaints thank you!
@@GoldenPaints what surface do you recommend the most to achieve that flat effect without brush strokes? I like to work with fine pen but can’t find a smooth surface suitable for both!
@@danecory1236 - send this question to help@goldenpaints.com and one of our product support folks will have some suggestions for you.
Please put this into .5oz dripper bottles (probably not the technical term) and sell them for the miniature market, I promise you they would do well.
Justin, I will be happy to pass your idea along to our brand manager - what are you referring to as a "dripper bottle"?
@@GoldenPaints he means a dropper bottle - almost like an eye dropper. This is the standard container for miniature paints.
In general, miniature specific paints are geared towards less artistically inclined people who want to get the models painted, which means pre-thinned, and multiple pigments per paint to give a wide variety of colors. This is of course quite limiting for the more advanced painters who want more control over their paints.
Miniature artists probably will never need as much paint as what comes in your smallest container so a smaller dropper bottle would be ideal. If you get your business people to look into the price/ml of miniature paint, I'm sure you guys would be happy to compete!
I agree, the jag is a huge mess. I think a bottle like the liquid acrylic lined up will work
Jars are messy when trying to pour them out, it needs a screw on spout.
Thanks for the feedback, I will pass this along to the team (here in New Berlin, NY)
What about the smell and it's effect on the artist?
Hello and thank you for your question. Please email help@goldenpaints.com so we can better investigate what might be happening. We look forward to hearing from you soon!
The Miniature Painting Hobby is huge.
If you put these in smaller squeeze bottles and add more colors to the line, the miniature hobby painters would buy more.
I would like to try these, but the current size of the containers (= cost) and not being small squeeze bottles is stopping me.
Most miniature hobby paints are in .5 - 2 ounce squeeze bottles. I think 1/2 ounce squeeze bottles would be a perfect size and price.
Even your smallest 2 ounce jars for most of the SoFlat are too expensive for the typical hobby painter. We like a lot of colors. :)
Vince Venturella, a Miniature Hobby Painter showcases SoFlat :
th-cam.com/video/__WT-HEffNQ/w-d-xo.html
uh, if no light reflected, you couldn't see them. kinda how light works. I think glare is the word you are thinking of.
Thank you for this feedback.