I like the idea of side by side. Way to go on hand pumping the EZ lube so you don't blow out the seal. Unfortunately you made a big mistake on your Valcrums. You put in around three times the hub oil than is required. Here, more is NOT better it's worse. The Valcrum 10k setup is designed to be filled to the lower line in the window. You have two fill lines there. You only fill the 10k to the outer or lower line however you want to refer to it. That little hole in the center of the rubber plug behind the magnet is an air hole. It allows the air to escape as the hub heats up. All that oil results in over expansion and pop goes the rubber plug or your seal. One or the other. Drain down to the correct line asap before you make another run. I take a coke can and cut it to the right size and wedge it under the lug nut. That way you can walk away while it drains. I put all four drain plugs at six o'clock and then lower the trailer back down. I think more of the old hub oil drains out when the axles are back at level.
Oil bath cut my failures except for plastic caps that cracked with age. Valcrum fixed the cap problem. The two piece seals used on oil bath and wheel bearings run with 0 to faint load (not backed off till the disc or drum wiggles) stopped issues on my hay, tractor , and living quarter horse trailers. All with wet hubs. On the other trailers with EZ lube I never use the through cap fitting. It too often pushes grease through seal. I pack them manually and used solid caps so the rubber cap doesn’t let water in.
On the caps for the grease hubs I've always used Permatex 80015 non-hardening sealant to seal them. Just make sure to clean both mating surfaces well and use a light coat. Never had an issue.
Ok after owning both hands down I like the oil bath much better less friction means better economy loaded or empty. The grease bearing are good but they cost fuel and drag
Well there are 2 bearings and races to remove plus a seal. I don’t know how many you’ve changed but I’ve changed quite a few and it’s not easy lol if I’m going through all that work it’s getting new bearings, races and a seal.
@@LoadMizer Pull wheel, clean and inspect bearings, repack bearings properly, install new seal. Races stay in the hub for this process, unless you find a reason to replace a bearing. That process goes for both types of hubs. The process you just showed is a "partial" grease/oil change. We're both different people, but I like to completely change my oil. I also like inspecting my bearings and brakes while I'm there.
Just about every RV Repair Guy I've talked to says those Grease Buddy's are Crap!! Most say they have made Big Money Changing the Brakes from being soaked in Grease ): They Fill the complete Hub Full that's why it takes a tube of grease>>It gets Hot and MELTS down on the Brakes Bad Bad Bad!!
@@halojamestransport7352 I agree, I run three of the Kaufman four car easy loads with triple axle. Two or three times a year I break all hubs down put new seals in clean all bearings inspect all bearings re-pack and reassemble. To me that is the only correct way to do it. If not, there is no way to inspect your bearings in a sure that you are not overlooking anything. And honestly, I can knock that hub off and do everything I just explained and reassemble if I do not find any bad parts in about 15 to 30 minutes per hub and then go down the road with a piece of mind
I am in south louisiana ! I have a camp about 50 miles from my home ! I have pulled boat trailers more than my fair share ! I have used both grease filled hubs with bearing buddies ! And oil filled hubs ! On different trailers :) I grease my hubs every single trip ! I check my oil filled hubs every single trip ! I prefer oil filled hubs ! I do not blow out my seals on grease filled hubs but I do grease them to the maximum ! Grease gets slung all over my wheels even with the use of the protective bras ! The thing is !!!! My bearings gonna be running in lubrication ! Be damn the mess ! Oil filled hubs you just look at and if there is oil inside all is good ! As we say here ! KNOW THIS ! A bearing that is running in clean oil or grease hardly ever failed in the history of man ! It the ones that the grease mites have ate up that fail ! Bullshit with hubs with closed grease caps ! With those those can not know about what on the inside ! You see them most on the side of the road ! When you on a trip the last thing you need is busted junk !
On the grease hub I clean the edge of the hub with brake clean & the hub cap also. Then apply silicone sealer no leaking or seeping, will also work well on your oil bath hubs.
@@LoadMizer no man you did a hell of a job I was watching the video like man that guy did it just like I would. Took your time spun the bearings pushed out all the old grease. A+
Dual (or triple for that matter) torsion axle trailers MUST be towed level so the tire loads are equal. Leaf springs equalize via the equalizers (Y shaped spring hanger). If that part is ok then I have better service from torsion. No bushings, bolts, shackles, etc to wear or loosen. Torsion by nature dampen motion and a bump on one side isn’t moving axle on other side since the spindles are carried independently.
EZ lube! You always run the risk of pushing grease by the seal! I always hand pack the bearings on my old trailer. I'll never go back to grease! FYI there are 7k oil hubs drums available!
Great video, thank you. I assume the greasable hub trailer has brakes. I would be pulling the drums once a year to inspect the brakes, and properly repack both inner/outer bearings. The EZ Lube system is great, but, the drums gotta come off too. I just found a broken brake magnet last week. I had no idea it had come apart.
i believe there was many times in the video that it took you a long long time to do anything to the grease one, then when I heard you say you always liked the oil over grease it made sense. need two guys head to head
The manual for 10k axles recommended 10-15k miles. So I changed it about once per month when I was running hard. That lines up with brake and bearing inspection so you would have to remove the hub anyway in order to check the bearings. 👍
Just traded my 30 foot srw gooseneck with torsion a les that were greasers for a 30ft tandem dual axles with oil baths. Would you mind posting those caps? I wanna put all new sight glasses on mine and at least drain the oil in them and replace with new. Dont think the races/bearings need anything being oil baths
May I ask a question I noticed my tag dragging big Tex 25k is it optional to have the tag inside the cab instead of dragging it down the road from low areas Thanks in advance ✌️ great information dude great videos 👍
Nah it has to be “permanently” mounted on the trailer next to the tag light. Mine is on a hinge and I actually caught a little crap about it when I got stopped twice in one day. It allows the plate to lift when I drag. Only forward though. Not in reverse. Apparently it flaps going down the highway 🤷♂️
That flex is mostly from loose wheel bearings. Get the spindle nuts that 12 notches instead of 6. Pack bearings and assemble with nut tightened with pliers then backed off and run down as tight as you can get with fingers. If Cotter pin is not aligned then go tighter the small amount until it goes in. 6 notch nut risks having you go too far to get Cotter pin installed and harm bearing. Bearings will have less load per roller if the bearing runs snug so all rollers across full width stay in contact. If you do as I listed when you are done you will be able to feel small deflection (wiggle) at tire tread if you push in/out. The bearing will not burn up as it is not that tight. Loose bearings leave some rollers not carrying load and the seal has to try to follow the spindle seal surface that moves closer and further from seal bore as hub wobbles around.
No clue, I just got it 2 weeks ago lol. Next service will most likely be new bearings all around. Just to be safe since I’m not the one who has been maintaining it. I’d like to start a clean slate for peace of mind.
Question: My boat trailer has oil bath wheel hub bearings, after a trip, my sight window on the wheel hub is protruding out and the wheel is pretty hot to the touch (I suspect from my trailer brakes maybe constantly engaging, that’s another issue I’m addressing). Is it protruding out because of the heat or is it another issue?
Yeah if your hub is hot to the touch you’re definitely facing a big problem. Those pads on the drum can catch fire pretty easily, especially oil bath hub. It’ll melt that seal and that oil basically turns into fuel. Sounds like you’ll fix your problem addressing the brakes on that wheel
@@LoadMizer I appreciate your reply! The guy I bought the trailer and boat from really neglected the trailer and maintenance on it. I’m going to completely drain the old oil in the wheel hubs and look into the brake issue. Thanks again!
Don't knock the dust cap off the EZ lube. Pull the rubber plug and grease while spinning. The old grease will come out around your grease gun fitting. In a worst case scenario; if your bearings get hot, the extra grease in the cap will start to ease its way to the bearings.
I like oil but you have to play closer attention to them. That's easy though because you can see the oil level in the hub cap window. Any driver who's torched a hub and trashed the spindle going down the road knows not to go to sleep on that part of the daily inspections ever again.
Depends if you’re leaking oil or not. You can find both seals on etrailer and other website like that. You just need to know your axle size and hub specs.
@@LoadMizer you didn't mess with the seals since they weren't leaking? Just trying to figure out at what mileage it's best to change the oil and seals?
I didn’t mess with the rear seals no, when I replaced the front caps I changed the rings. Anytime I pull the caps off I change the rings but if the rear seals and bearings are good they stay in until recommended scheduling suggests they be changed out.
There is a pro and con actually. If you get a leak in an oil bath set up, you are done until you fix the leak, and change he bearing and seal. Oil come out mighty fast under load and heat. With grease, you can still drive a long way on a blown seal. This affords you some leeway and not stuck on the side of the road. What you are trading through, is time. As you can see by the video, you can change up the oil in an oil bath in close to half the time. Which also means you will more likely keep upon your maintenance. Whereas grease bath axles have a tendency to receive a little less attention in maintenance because no one enjoys regressing a hub. Just my two cents, adjusted for inflation.
just my 2 cents if it's your trailer and the only driver go oil it's the better of the 2 imo. but if you have a driver using your trailer go grease they seem to not care about taking care of the equipment .
There is a simply and better wayin keeping your wheel bearing from going out on you. Use synthetic base grease and oils for your axles . It may cost you a little more but a lot less headache on the back end. And maintain or changing the oil is less. Big trucks and trailers used it and the only time they change the oil is when the seal goes bad. With grease hub trailer the only time is at a brake job. And that at over 100000 miles. I do it to lot of the guys and women trailer and the bearing problems go away and less down time. You be the judge
@@CatarineausArmory With grease hubs the wear factor is less in some cases. As long as your seals are good and you repack the bear per factory specification. But if the bearing get too hot then big damage will happen. Oil type hubs keep everything cool and is able to handle higher heat temperatures. This type of system is used on big trucks / trailers . It all boils down to the gross weight that you are hauling and the axle setup. Per builder!!!!
With the grease hubs and the method you are using, there is just about a 50/50 chance of pushing grease out the inner seal and getting grease all over the brake shoes. There are far too many reports of this happening. I pump 4 to 6 strokes in mine twice a year, and repack/inspect every 15,000 miles.
If this is your maintenance i would highly recommend taking the hubs apart to check the bearing and not just shove grease/ oil in. I may be completely wrong, but from my understanding oil vs grease is more of a use case. If you use your trailer alot go oil, if it sits alot you want grease.
Major downside to oil bath is if you loose a seal your going to have major damage within minutes and your left on the side of road not to mention risk of leaking oil catching fire on hot bearings. Grease bearings never catch fire and can almost always limp in some where due to the fact you rarely loose all lubricity. Newer spindle lube technology makes grease the overall better system non pro haulers and the little bit of extra steps for maintenance is usually something you only have to do once maybe twice a year with normal use. I feel the video maybe over exaggerated the time spent on grease. 6 minutes to just get the grease cap off seems a little excessive. I have both and as long as the oil stays full they seem to run cooler more consistently but if they fail it seems to be more catastrophic.
Not really in a schedule for me. If I get some play in the wheel when I do maintenance I change them then as they’re showing signs of wear. Some last years. Some last months lol
My question is why are you wasting all that good grease I mean that stuff still good in there I mean you’re just pushing more grease in it and taking good grease out I don’t understand but please someone elaborate let me know that’s why am asking the question
I use the red n tacky grease from Lucas. The maintenance intervals on those bearings ranges from 10k-15k miles. The grease I scoop out is black. As you pump new grease in it will start to turn purple, keep pumping and it will start to have red streaks in it. That’s when I stop.
Dexter recommend 80w90 but I just use the Lucas hub oil. It’s at nearly any truck stop and Walmart. Easy to come by if I run out. Gear oil and hub oil are the same thing.
Lol I’m not buying a tool that costs 20x the part it’s made for. A soft mallet isn’t hurting the caps. Need a hammer to reinstall/replace them anyway. That one was mangled from the previous owner anyway. In the end it’s just a dust cap. Calm down.
I don't trust an oil bath. If your seal leaks at all, all your oil is gone fast. If it was so great, why do all car manufacturers use only greased bearings? It's another gimmick in the trailer industry. It will fail more often trust me.
This is routine maintenance that prevents failure. Unless you’re pulling the hub there is no need to pull bearings if there is no sign of wear. If you’re pulling the hub then yes, might as well repack just like I did in my brake video. Not performing maintenance is lazy.
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I like the idea of side by side. Way to go on hand pumping the EZ lube so you don't blow out the seal. Unfortunately you made a big mistake on your Valcrums. You put in around three times the hub oil than is required. Here, more is NOT better it's worse. The Valcrum 10k setup is designed to be filled to the lower line in the window. You have two fill lines there. You only fill the 10k to the outer or lower line however you want to refer to it. That little hole in the center of the rubber plug behind the magnet is an air hole. It allows the air to escape as the hub heats up. All that oil results in over expansion and pop goes the rubber plug or your seal. One or the other. Drain down to the correct line asap before you make another run. I take a coke can and cut it to the right size and wedge it under the lug nut. That way you can walk away while it drains. I put all four drain plugs at six o'clock and then lower the trailer back down. I think more of the old hub oil drains out when the axles are back at level.
I would recommend going to Lucas green heavy duty on your grease wheels. Red stuff turns to liquid easy, especially in the summer.
Oil bath cut my failures except for plastic caps that cracked with age. Valcrum fixed the cap problem. The two piece seals used on oil bath and wheel bearings run with 0 to faint load (not backed off till the disc or drum wiggles) stopped issues on my hay, tractor , and living quarter horse trailers. All with wet hubs. On the other trailers with EZ lube I never use the through cap fitting. It too often pushes grease through seal. I pack them manually and used solid caps so the rubber cap doesn’t let water in.
Hey man, great video! Can you upload more How To maintenance videos like this?
It was greatly appreciated!
wow ive been greasing wrong this whole time... thanks for the video!
On the caps for the grease hubs I've always used Permatex 80015 non-hardening sealant to seal them. Just make sure to clean both mating surfaces well and use a light coat. Never had an issue.
Thx for all the info you provide. You are making it a lot easier to get started in the business.. Thx again.
Ok after owning both hands down I like the oil bath much better less friction means better economy loaded or empty. The grease bearing are good but they cost fuel and drag
To me, the process of changing grease would seem to be easier to pull the wheel and repack bearing and new seal
Well there are 2 bearings and races to remove plus a seal. I don’t know how many you’ve changed but I’ve changed quite a few and it’s not easy lol if I’m going through all that work it’s getting new bearings, races and a seal.
@@LoadMizer Pull wheel, clean and inspect bearings, repack bearings properly, install new seal. Races stay in the hub for this process, unless you find a reason to replace a bearing. That process goes for both types of hubs. The process you just showed is a "partial" grease/oil change.
We're both different people, but I like to completely change my oil. I also like inspecting my bearings and brakes while I'm there.
Just about every RV Repair Guy I've talked to says those Grease Buddy's are Crap!! Most say they have made Big Money Changing the Brakes from being soaked in Grease ): They Fill the complete Hub Full that's why it takes a tube of grease>>It gets Hot and MELTS down on the Brakes Bad Bad Bad!!
@@halojamestransport7352 I agree, I run three of the Kaufman four car easy loads with triple axle. Two or three times a year I break all hubs down put new seals in clean all bearings inspect all bearings re-pack and reassemble. To me that is the only correct way to do it. If not, there is no way to inspect your bearings in a sure that you are not overlooking anything.
And honestly, I can knock that hub off and do everything I just explained and reassemble if I do not find any bad parts in about 15 to 30 minutes per hub and then go down the road with a piece of mind
@@bz4shez great minds think alike! Gotta have piece of mind when your living depends on it.
I am in south louisiana ! I have a camp about 50 miles from my home !
I have pulled boat trailers more than my fair share !
I have used both grease filled hubs with bearing buddies !
And oil filled hubs !
On different trailers :)
I grease my hubs every single trip !
I check my oil filled hubs every single trip !
I prefer oil filled hubs !
I do not blow out my seals on grease filled hubs but I do grease them to the maximum !
Grease gets slung all over my wheels even with the use of the protective bras !
The thing is !!!! My bearings gonna be running in lubrication !
Be damn the mess !
Oil filled hubs you just look at and if there is oil inside all is good !
As we say here !
KNOW THIS !
A bearing that is running in clean oil or grease hardly ever failed in the history of man !
It the ones that the grease mites have ate up that fail !
Bullshit with hubs with closed grease caps !
With those those can not know about what on the inside !
You see them most on the side of the road !
When you on a trip the last thing you need is busted junk !
On the grease hub I clean the edge of the hub with brake clean & the hub cap also. Then apply silicone sealer no leaking or seeping, will also work well on your oil bath hubs.
These grease hubs definitely get nasty
Channel-Lock pliers and a protective rag (or wrapping duct tape) will remove a dust cap in seconds, no need to beat on it with a mallet...
If nobody ever told you, I appreciate you lmao! Learned a lot from your channel.
good info load mizer!
Doing the EZ Lube hubs that way doesn't seem any quicker than just pulling a conventional hub and repacking the bearings by hand.
I’ve never done it that way but at least you aren’t pounding the grease in your palms... I got my first oil bath and am glad I watched the video.
Wow you actually did the grease axel the right way 👍🏻
There’s some on here that says I did it wrong lol
@@LoadMizer no man you did a hell of a job I was watching the video like man that guy did it just like I would. Took your time spun the bearings pushed out all the old grease. A+
Wow great information, definitely going to order some Velcrum covers and reserve a good few hours to do my grease axles while my oil just drains 😂
It would be nice if you get the chance to compare torsion axles vs leaf springs and witch one is better
Dual (or triple for that matter) torsion axle trailers MUST be towed level so the tire loads are equal. Leaf springs equalize via the equalizers (Y shaped spring hanger). If that part is ok then I have better service from torsion. No bushings, bolts, shackles, etc to wear or loosen. Torsion by nature dampen motion and a bump on one side isn’t moving axle on other side since the spindles are carried independently.
EZ lube! You always run the risk of pushing grease by the seal! I always hand pack the bearings on my old trailer. I'll never go back to grease! FYI there are 7k oil hubs drums available!
I can’t explain how much I hate these axles already 🤣. I’ll be looking into that for sure man thank you!
Great video, thank you. I assume the greasable hub trailer has brakes. I would be pulling the drums once a year to inspect the brakes, and properly repack both inner/outer bearings. The EZ Lube system is great, but, the drums gotta come off too. I just found a broken brake magnet last week. I had no idea it had come apart.
Well-done grasshopper 👍
i believe there was many times in the video that it took you a long long time to do anything to the grease one, then when I heard you say you always liked the oil over grease it made sense. need two guys head to head
I love oil bath just don’t overload your trailer and take care of it won’t blow through seals
Great video! Thank you so much, very helpful and insightful
Why not take channel locks with a rag and take the grease caps off by rocking back and forth.
That could work! Still need a hammer to put them back on though lol
Channel locks are so much faster!
Great video !
that was really relaxing and instructive !! OMG i just watched a guy grease his hubs ;DDD
Haha you like that lube play? 🤣
@@LoadMizer only on trailers haha ;DDD
🤣🤣
@@LoadMizer never be stingy with the grease ;DDD
Great video
Not sure how you stayed clean.... I wore half that grease just watching this video 😂😂😂
So many paper towels lol
LM - How often do you swap your oil out? I have Lippert axles and their manual is silent on change frequency. Diamond C was vague when I called them.
The manual for 10k axles recommended 10-15k miles. So I changed it about once per month when I was running hard. That lines up with brake and bearing inspection so you would have to remove the hub anyway in order to check the bearings. 👍
@@LoadMizer Appreciated. No idea why Lippert's 16K axle manual is silent on the matter, but your range sounds about right to me.
Great info bro 🤙🏼
You can get the valcrum cap for grease as well. I do believe anyways. Nice vid
How often or miles, should the oil be changed.😊
Just traded my 30 foot srw gooseneck with torsion a les that were greasers for a 30ft tandem dual axles with oil baths. Would you mind posting those caps? I wanna put all new sight glasses on mine and at least drain the oil in them and replace with new. Dont think the races/bearings need anything being oil baths
Why are you taking the cap off the greased bearing to lube? You are suppose to pull out the rubber plug
I don’t want a cap full of old grease
May I ask a question I noticed my tag dragging big Tex 25k is it optional to have the tag inside the cab instead of dragging it down the road from low areas
Thanks in advance ✌️ great information dude great videos 👍
Nah it has to be “permanently” mounted on the trailer next to the tag light. Mine is on a hinge and I actually caught a little crap about it when I got stopped twice in one day. It allows the plate to lift when I drag. Only forward though. Not in reverse. Apparently it flaps going down the highway 🤷♂️
Thanks dude!! Good idea 💡 👍I’ll look into getting a hinge installed!!!
I've heard the light duty 7k axles with single wheels flex too much and cause the oil bath seals to leak? That's just what I hear .
They do flex pretty hard.
That flex is mostly from loose wheel bearings. Get the spindle nuts that 12 notches instead of 6. Pack bearings and assemble with nut tightened with pliers then backed off and run down as tight as you can get with fingers. If Cotter pin is not aligned then go tighter the small amount until it goes in. 6 notch nut risks having you go too far to get Cotter pin installed and harm bearing. Bearings will have less load per roller if the bearing runs snug so all rollers across full width stay in contact. If you do as I listed when you are done you will be able to feel small deflection (wiggle) at tire tread if you push in/out. The bearing will not burn up as it is not that tight. Loose bearings leave some rollers not carrying load and the seal has to try to follow the spindle seal surface that moves closer and further from seal bore as hub wobbles around.
Oil bath all the way👍
How often do you grease the axles?
Dang, when was the last time that thing was greased? Seemed to take an extraordinary amount.
No clue, I just got it 2 weeks ago lol. Next service will most likely be new bearings all around. Just to be safe since I’m not the one who has been maintaining it. I’d like to start a clean slate for peace of mind.
Maybe if there is a kit you could do one side oil bath see how each hold up?
I asked the trailer mechanic at work witch method works better. He told me he doesn't see a difference. He's been doing axles for over 30 years.
Wonder if you could use a oil filter style wrench to pull those hammer on caps off
That’s a really good question. I don’t have it anymore but I’d be interested in knowing if that worked!
Love this 👍
Ohhhhhh nice hat 🤙🏻
Thanks! You should check his channel out! 🤣
This feels like im watching a tire have its ass wiped loll
what about grease bath with nlgi 1 or 0 or 00 grease
use a plastic cup and place it in the wheel hole and then you dont have to hold the container and i let it drain as i am working on the next hub
Question: My boat trailer has oil bath wheel hub bearings, after a trip, my sight window on the wheel hub is protruding out and the wheel is pretty hot to the touch (I suspect from my trailer brakes maybe constantly engaging, that’s another issue I’m addressing). Is it protruding out because of the heat or is it another issue?
Yeah if your hub is hot to the touch you’re definitely facing a big problem. Those pads on the drum can catch fire pretty easily, especially oil bath hub. It’ll melt that seal and that oil basically turns into fuel. Sounds like you’ll fix your problem addressing the brakes on that wheel
@@LoadMizer I appreciate your reply! The guy I bought the trailer and boat from really neglected the trailer and maintenance on it. I’m going to completely drain the old oil in the wheel hubs and look into the brake issue. Thanks again!
Don't knock the dust cap off the EZ lube. Pull the rubber plug and grease while spinning. The old grease will come out around your grease gun fitting. In a worst case scenario; if your bearings get hot, the extra grease in the cap will start to ease its way to the bearings.
On the grease axle, were you pushing the old grease out?
Yes it’ll start changing colors when the new grease makes it’s way through. You have to rotate the wheel though.
@@LoadMizer ok thank you
I like oil but you have to play closer attention to them. That's easy though because you can see the oil level in the hub cap window. Any driver who's torched a hub and trashed the spindle going down the road knows not to go to sleep on that part of the daily inspections ever again.
What type of oil bath you used thank you
I just use Lucas hub oil
Oil bath all the way!
Do the oil bath have any seals that need replacement when changing the oil?
There is a rear seal on the back of the wheel hub but as far as the oil hub goes it’s just a rubber O-ring.
@@LoadMizer do they both need to be replaced? Where would I buy them? Planning on changing out the oil soon on mine. Thanks
Depends if you’re leaking oil or not. You can find both seals on etrailer and other website like that. You just need to know your axle size and hub specs.
@@LoadMizer you didn't mess with the seals since they weren't leaking? Just trying to figure out at what mileage it's best to change the oil and seals?
I didn’t mess with the rear seals no, when I replaced the front caps I changed the rings. Anytime I pull the caps off I change the rings but if the rear seals and bearings are good they stay in until recommended scheduling suggests they be changed out.
Ok what’s the advantage to the grease hubs versus the oil hubs?
Just my opinion...I don’t see any advantages lol
There is a pro and con actually. If you get a leak in an oil bath set up, you are done until you fix the leak, and change he bearing and seal. Oil come out mighty fast under load and heat. With grease, you can still drive a long way on a blown seal. This affords you some leeway and not stuck on the side of the road.
What you are trading through, is time. As you can see by the video, you can change up the oil in an oil bath in close to half the time. Which also means you will more likely keep upon your maintenance. Whereas grease bath axles have a tendency to receive a little less attention in maintenance because no one enjoys regressing a hub.
Just my two cents, adjusted for inflation.
How often do you change the oil bath?
10-15k. Usually about once per month when I’m running.
Appreciate the info good stuff as always‼️@@LoadMizer
How often do u change oil bath
Manual says about every 10-15k miles so I change it about once per month. Takes about an hour to change them all out.
What's up brother hope all is going well
Waiting for this week to start!
can I mixed oil with grease??
No it’s either/or. The rear seals and hubs have to be changed to switch between the 2
just my 2 cents if it's your trailer and the only driver go oil it's the better of the 2 imo. but if you have a driver using your trailer go grease they seem to not care about taking care of the equipment .
Did you mention intervals.
I didn’t. Manuals recommended every 10-15k to inspect and top off. I generally do it once per month.
Get you some dust cap pliers
There is a simply and better wayin keeping your wheel bearing from going out on you. Use synthetic base grease and oils for your axles . It may cost you a little more but a lot less headache on the back end. And maintain or changing the oil is less. Big trucks and trailers used it and the only time they change the oil is when the seal goes bad. With grease hub trailer the only time is at a brake job. And that at over 100000 miles. I do it to lot of the guys and women trailer and the bearing problems go away and less down time. You be the judge
I’m gonna check into that. Thank you 👍
I was going to ask about the mileage/wear differences...
@@CatarineausArmory With grease hubs the wear factor is less in some cases. As long as your seals are good and you repack the bear per factory specification. But if the bearing get too hot then big damage will happen. Oil type hubs keep everything cool and is able to handle higher heat temperatures. This type of system is used on big trucks / trailers . It all boils down to the gross weight that you are hauling and the axle setup. Per builder!!!!
@@cruizgonzalez5004 Thanks brother!!
You’re saying to mix the grease and the oil together in the hub?
With the grease hubs and the method you are using, there is just about a 50/50 chance of pushing grease out the inner seal and getting grease all over the brake shoes. There are far too many reports of this happening. I pump 4 to 6 strokes in mine twice a year, and repack/inspect every 15,000 miles.
Yup, been there done that
I vote too hear that original music ....
Thanks
Oil 👍for me is better
Same here! 👍👍
If this is your maintenance i would highly recommend taking the hubs apart to check the bearing and not just shove grease/ oil in. I may be completely wrong, but from my understanding oil vs grease is more of a use case. If you use your trailer alot go oil, if it sits alot you want grease.
Major downside to oil bath is if you loose a seal your going to have major damage within minutes and your left on the side of road not to mention risk of leaking oil catching fire on hot bearings. Grease bearings never catch fire and can almost always limp in some where due to the fact you rarely loose all lubricity. Newer spindle lube technology makes grease the overall better system non pro haulers and the little bit of extra steps for maintenance is usually something you only have to do once maybe twice a year with normal use. I feel the video maybe over exaggerated the time spent on grease. 6 minutes to just get the grease cap off seems a little excessive. I have both and as long as the oil stays full they seem to run cooler more consistently but if they fail it seems to be more catastrophic.
How often do you change the bearing on the oil bath of you do at all?
Not really in a schedule for me. If I get some play in the wheel when I do maintenance I change them then as they’re showing signs of wear. Some last years. Some last months lol
So there should be no play on oil bath like there should on grease hubs correct?
Great video for what I’ve seen but I was more interested in the content than the background music so I left before the end 😏
Update?
Song name?
My question is why are you wasting all that good grease I mean that stuff still good in there I mean you’re just pushing more grease in it and taking good grease out I don’t understand but please someone elaborate let me know that’s why am asking the question
I use the red n tacky grease from Lucas. The maintenance intervals on those bearings ranges from 10k-15k miles. The grease I scoop out is black. As you pump new grease in it will start to turn purple, keep pumping and it will start to have red streaks in it. That’s when I stop.
Unless it’s a boat trailer greased bearing will last years. Water/Rust is biggest killer of bearings
We can see that you’re taking the grease out even though you don’t need to
Where can I get my dot number
www.fmcsa.dot.gov/registration
Hub oil!
Like the side by side
Thank you 😬👍
Question for u sir
Do u use hub oil or can I use gear oil to change eoh brakes
Or what kind of hub oil to use
Dexter recommend 80w90 but I just use the Lucas hub oil. It’s at nearly any truck stop and Walmart. Easy to come by if I run out. Gear oil and hub oil are the same thing.
God bless nice job
Dust cap removal tool, stop bangin on shit, those come off in seconds with the right tool
Lol I’m not buying a tool that costs 20x the part it’s made for. A soft mallet isn’t hurting the caps. Need a hammer to reinstall/replace them anyway. That one was mangled from the previous owner anyway. In the end it’s just a dust cap. Calm down.
Invest in a battery powered grease gun. It will speed up the process on your change out.
So what kind of Point are you trying to prove your
You didn't service either hub. You just changed some of the oil and some of the grease. EZ lube is a disaster waiting to happen.
If rates were better you could just go buy a new trailer every 100k miles.
I don't trust an oil bath. If your seal leaks at all, all your oil is gone fast. If it was so great, why do all car manufacturers use only greased bearings? It's another gimmick in the trailer industry. It will fail more often trust me.
Do not do what this guy did. Remove the bearings and repack. This is straight up LAZY and will result in failure.
This is routine maintenance that prevents failure. Unless you’re pulling the hub there is no need to pull bearings if there is no sign of wear. If you’re pulling the hub then yes, might as well repack just like I did in my brake video. Not performing maintenance is lazy.
air line grease gun a lot more efficient
How often do you grease the axles?
About every 4-6weeks depending how hard I run