Good thing about AA bateries is everyone has them, every shop, every gas station... Probably not a thing for comp crawling but for us who tend to go for a longer trail rides/hikes in a group - it's a good thing :) Having multiple options is best of course :)
You see, what happened here is the result of compulsion-- every build gets a radio. Were I not using a blend of various LiPo packs and 18650 cells, I would have-- in use-- almost 350 AA batteries. It's just not sustainable. But a radio that can run LiPo, 18650, and AAs? What's not to like?
A lot of channels and features for the money, buuuuut.... Having to guess at how some things work, unknown durability, where to go if you need support...those things and more make me hesitant to give it a try, even at such an affordable price. That might just be a me thing. I'll be curious to see how it's doing a year from now. Thanks for another review!
@@topqualityfi8216 Last time I checked, my family tree wasn't a wreath and I'm pretty sure that over time I'd be able to figure most of the advanced features out, but I also feel that I shouldn't have to do it on my own. The people who designed the radio know exactly what it does and should be able to produce a manual so the rest of us do too. That, the other things I mentioned and more make me reluctant to give the radio a try. That's purely on me and others may well feel differently. I know what I like and what I don't, what I'm willing to take a chance on and what I'm not. I sincerely hope that everyone who buys one of these gets years of enjoyment with it. Maybe I'll get one some day and maybe I won't, but either way I'm appreciative for the time, money and effort that went into making this review.
I got rid of my last GT5 awhile ago, and really can't remember what wheel mount it used. None of the 3D printable ones I could find show what they look like from behind, either.
Could you do a tire review on the original 1.9 mudslingers from rc4wd the short ones. Would be cool to see how the old design compares to all the newer tires
We had a set of the 3.66 here for awhile, pre-dating the test protocol. They were unremarkable, most likely because they're molded in the rock-hard X3 compound. The compound feels softer than what you'd find on a mountain bike.
Any tips on getting the neutral position on the o.d. in the vfd twin (rwd) i can only get it to shift with no noises if i shift from 6% to neutral of i go from 20% to neutral i get a bit of noise . Using the radiolink rc6gs. About to give it up and put it on a 2 position switch.
Start with the linkage from the servo detached. With the rig powered up, move the OD arm to the center position so that it is in neutral. I try to use a turnbuckle for the linkage, as that allows super-fine adjustment; if you don't have a turnbuckle, that's fine, you can make adjustments via sub-trim. Make sure that channel assigned to the 3-position switch is going the direction you'd like-- for instance, I prefer the OD lever such that the switch "away" from me (push) is big OD, and "toward" me (pull) is small OD. It's important to set direction first as any trim and EPA settings are directional. Attach the linkage to the OD lever. Now you want to "clock" the horn on the servo so that it lines up (as close as possible) to the end of the linkage while the servo is at the center position. Get it as close as you can-- with 25 splines, each "click" of the horn is 14.4º, so you might not end up super close. Use sub-trim for that channel to get the holes in the linkage and servo horn to line up as absolutely close as possible. So the linkage is attached to the OD arm but not the servo. Manually move the OD arm to one end, then flip the switch to the corresponding direction. Use EPA to move the servo horn into alignment with the linkage. Then repeat for the other direction. I like to take about 5 points of EPA out on either end (lessen the total throw) as it makes shifting smoother. You can fine tune the EPA after everything is connected. Now attach to the servo horn and test it under power, making any EPA adjustments necessary. Remember, any further adjustments to sub-trim will impact EPA-- that's why I like a turnbuckle (I'm lazy.) As others have said, some servos are better at holding a precise center than others, but you can be comfortable in knowing you did everything you could. I have a decent number of Twins in the fleet, and will readily tell you that not all of them can reliably shift into neutral every time. There's only a few MMs of "free" space between OD positions.
I run a T4PV by futaba I use it in my race rigs and my main crawler but I won’t lie I worry about it every time I take it out to crawl this might be a good option for my crawlers for race performance futaba only for me. But out in nature I need a different option
I'm working on finding more converts-- I already have a Futaba 10PX guy firmly in the Radiolink camp, because the long and the short is that we don't need top-of-the-line to operate a rig at 3mph, 7 feet away. We need "cheap, comfortable, competent." Racing is a whole different thing (I'm a life-long Sanwa man) but for this, the Radiolink RC4 remains king. The CT-8A is definitely an option, especially as I've heard reports that they're under $30 on AE. This radio has "loaner rig" written all over it.
@ nothing wrong with Sanwa it’s what I used till I got my Futaba for racing both are perfect choices for racing. But you are right at 3mph and 7 feet away max you are correct lol durability and longevity would be nice too
@@CrawlerCanyon yeah the menu interface leaves much to be desired. but controlling my rear steer by thumb is a lot better then my Futaba 4PL dial wheel
I got a rebadged version of this radio with my Rlaarlo MK-07 and absolutely hated it. Switched the truck to my Flysky NB4+ and now it the CT-8A will live the rest of its life in a box full of trash rtr radios.
So is the takeaway here that the $300 radio is better than the $50 ($32 on AE) radio? Imagine my surprise!! I'm not doing a compare/contrast against boutique radios-- I'm looking for something that checks the boxes for "cheap, competent." The CT-8A, compared to it's competition (which obviously does not include the Noble) comes relatively packed with features. Lumping the Hot RC in with the "trash RTR radios" suggests to me that you might have forgotten a little what RTR radios tend to offer.
The ct6a had the trigger adjustment screw in same spot n it had my ax24 all messed up along with the mb100 esc helped me burn up 4 motors and 2 mb100's because i was new new bew n didn't know what i was doing and the manual is non existent so my $50 transmitter reciever combo cost me over a $125 worth of parts not a beginner transmitter what so ever
The CT-6A is one of the worst radios I've ever tested. Terrible on all counts. I paid ~35 bucks for it a year ago and it was so bad I returned it. So the CT-8A is a pleasant surprise. IIRC, the CT-6 doesn't have basic endpoint adjustments.
@ yeah n I didn't realize that trigger adjustment screw limited my reverse plus the mb100 reduction in reverse n i had all kinds of stuff messed up too had input gear on the input shaft on wrong side of nut i missed the Orings in front diff when i put my od in all this same time as i switched transmitters snd esc to the mb100 oh n where bushing goes in trans i had a bearing guess when i tore it down the bushing went bouncing lol so from jun until now i went thru 4 or 5 motors and 2esc's 2transmissions but ya know what? I gotter did now well waiting on a rockwolf esc to get in atock hopefully this week i was told if not i know by next Friday they'll have em thats the original date i was told
@ yeah i got a bunch of videos well a bunch fir me anyway btw im starting a podcast fir the rc youtube community i have a a handful of channels that have agreed to do be interviewed would you be interested ? By chance my gmail is full or id email ya but my fb page is the same as my channel here if you could shoot me a message back there id appreciate it
@@DubVredneckI have a Injora purple viper in my ascent18 and it is great. I’m going to be getting a purple viper for a scx24 transmission soon,so I hope the 2800kv isn’t too spicy.
Why my brain keeps remembering how the trx4 sport climbed those spots so easy,and now i watch element with fusion littlebit battleing some of those spots🫠🫣
Ofc the new controller might have to do something about driving style for a while, but im totally getting that for my sport high trail tq:s replacement,so i can get lights,and maybe 2nd gear, does that reciever have any change to get it fit trx4 sport water proofed case?😮 and can it light up lights ny plugging to free channels without some kind of light box?😊
That’s the exact Radio that cams with my MK-07, after the learning curve kicks in I really like the radio. Pretty much does everything. 😊
Man if this had a dial for 4 wheel steering would be hot seller
I made the switch from GTA V to radio link and I didn't go back thank you crawler Canyon you definitely help me
Good thing about AA bateries is everyone has them, every shop, every gas station... Probably not a thing for comp crawling but for us who tend to go for a longer trail rides/hikes in a group - it's a good thing :) Having multiple options is best of course :)
You see, what happened here is the result of compulsion-- every build gets a radio. Were I not using a blend of various LiPo packs and 18650 cells, I would have-- in use-- almost 350 AA batteries. It's just not sustainable. But a radio that can run LiPo, 18650, and AAs? What's not to like?
Looks like you can fit another 2s lipo in the bay, just keep a extra charged battery for it in the base to give it enough low end weight.
Or just a bigger 2s lipo?
Thank you for reviewing this,now i can buy it when i can afford :)
A lot of channels and features for the money, buuuuut.... Having to guess at how some things work, unknown durability, where to go if you need support...those things and more make me hesitant to give it a try, even at such an affordable price. That might just be a me thing. I'll be curious to see how it's doing a year from now. Thanks for another review!
Well,im sure if your mother and father arent siblings,i wont take long time to figure out what buttons do 😂(not insulting,just black humor)
If it dosent work as new,return it, if it brokes after 2 month,but new, because traxxas tqi controller and reciever is ~200
Exactly @@topqualityfi8216
@@topqualityfi8216 Last time I checked, my family tree wasn't a wreath and I'm pretty sure that over time I'd be able to figure most of the advanced features out, but I also feel that I shouldn't have to do it on my own. The people who designed the radio know exactly what it does and should be able to produce a manual so the rest of us do too. That, the other things I mentioned and more make me reluctant to give the radio a try. That's purely on me and others may well feel differently. I know what I like and what I don't, what I'm willing to take a chance on and what I'm not. I sincerely hope that everyone who buys one of these gets years of enjoyment with it. Maybe I'll get one some day and maybe I won't, but either way I'm appreciative for the time, money and effort that went into making this review.
Does the GT5 have the same wheel mount? I can't remember which way the D is on that one.
I got rid of my last GT5 awhile ago, and really can't remember what wheel mount it used. None of the 3D printable ones I could find show what they look like from behind, either.
Could you do a tire review on the original 1.9 mudslingers from rc4wd the short ones. Would be cool to see how the old design compares to all the newer tires
We had a set of the 3.66 here for awhile, pre-dating the test protocol. They were unremarkable, most likely because they're molded in the rock-hard X3 compound. The compound feels softer than what you'd find on a mountain bike.
49:01 complaining that the cup holder in the Bentley won’t fit your huge Stanley🤣
Any tips on getting the neutral position on the o.d. in the vfd twin (rwd) i can only get it to shift with no noises if i shift from 6% to neutral of i go from 20% to neutral i get a bit of noise . Using the radiolink rc6gs. About to give it up and put it on a 2 position switch.
Probably the neutral position in the servo isn't precise? It also could have a bi tof play
Start with the linkage from the servo detached. With the rig powered up, move the OD arm to the center position so that it is in neutral. I try to use a turnbuckle for the linkage, as that allows super-fine adjustment; if you don't have a turnbuckle, that's fine, you can make adjustments via sub-trim.
Make sure that channel assigned to the 3-position switch is going the direction you'd like-- for instance, I prefer the OD lever such that the switch "away" from me (push) is big OD, and "toward" me (pull) is small OD. It's important to set direction first as any trim and EPA settings are directional. Attach the linkage to the OD lever. Now you want to "clock" the horn on the servo so that it lines up (as close as possible) to the end of the linkage while the servo is at the center position. Get it as close as you can-- with 25 splines, each "click" of the horn is 14.4º, so you might not end up super close. Use sub-trim for that channel to get the holes in the linkage and servo horn to line up as absolutely close as possible.
So the linkage is attached to the OD arm but not the servo. Manually move the OD arm to one end, then flip the switch to the corresponding direction. Use EPA to move the servo horn into alignment with the linkage. Then repeat for the other direction. I like to take about 5 points of EPA out on either end (lessen the total throw) as it makes shifting smoother. You can fine tune the EPA after everything is connected.
Now attach to the servo horn and test it under power, making any EPA adjustments necessary. Remember, any further adjustments to sub-trim will impact EPA-- that's why I like a turnbuckle (I'm lazy.) As others have said, some servos are better at holding a precise center than others, but you can be comfortable in knowing you did everything you could. I have a decent number of Twins in the fleet, and will readily tell you that not all of them can reliably shift into neutral every time. There's only a few MMs of "free" space between OD positions.
If it's got live end point adjustment it may displace the Ldarc as my go-to cheap radio.
It does. The only oddities to the EPA are the naming and the drone-derived 500-1000-1500 points.
Didnt hear the background beeps. Sure its real?
It this hot rc same as dumborc? They got so much similiarities :o
No ....if you mean the ddf350.
Wagwan Canyonaeros 👊
Howdy👊
Howdy👊
I run a T4PV by futaba I use it in my race rigs and my main crawler but I won’t lie I worry about it every time I take it out to crawl this might be a good option for my crawlers for race performance futaba only for me. But out in nature I need a different option
I'm working on finding more converts-- I already have a Futaba 10PX guy firmly in the Radiolink camp, because the long and the short is that we don't need top-of-the-line to operate a rig at 3mph, 7 feet away. We need "cheap, comfortable, competent." Racing is a whole different thing (I'm a life-long Sanwa man) but for this, the Radiolink RC4 remains king. The CT-8A is definitely an option, especially as I've heard reports that they're under $30 on AE. This radio has "loaner rig" written all over it.
@ nothing wrong with Sanwa it’s what I used till I got my Futaba for racing both are perfect choices for racing. But you are right at 3mph and 7 feet away max you are correct lol durability and longevity would be nice too
If you have 18650 batteries laying around this controller is $30 on Temu
morning gents😊
Howdy👊
IDk I enjoy my flysky g7p. But i also got it with four receivers for 80 bucks
One of my top-5 worst, easily. An utter ergonomic nightmare.
@@CrawlerCanyon yeah the menu interface leaves much to be desired. but controlling my rear steer by thumb is a lot better then my Futaba 4PL dial wheel
I got a rebadged version of this radio with my Rlaarlo MK-07 and absolutely hated it. Switched the truck to my Flysky NB4+ and now it the CT-8A will live the rest of its life in a box full of trash rtr radios.
What was bad on it?
So is the takeaway here that the $300 radio is better than the $50 ($32 on AE) radio? Imagine my surprise!! I'm not doing a compare/contrast against boutique radios-- I'm looking for something that checks the boxes for "cheap, competent." The CT-8A, compared to it's competition (which obviously does not include the Noble) comes relatively packed with features. Lumping the Hot RC in with the "trash RTR radios" suggests to me that you might have forgotten a little what RTR radios tend to offer.
The ct6a had the trigger adjustment screw in same spot n it had my ax24 all messed up along with the mb100 esc helped me burn up 4 motors and
2 mb100's because i was new new bew n didn't know what i was doing and the manual is non existent so my $50 transmitter reciever combo cost me over a $125 worth of parts not a beginner transmitter what so ever
The CT-6A is one of the worst radios I've ever tested. Terrible on all counts. I paid ~35 bucks for it a year ago and it was so bad I returned it. So the CT-8A is a pleasant surprise. IIRC, the CT-6 doesn't have basic endpoint adjustments.
@ yeah n I didn't realize that trigger adjustment screw limited my reverse plus the mb100 reduction in reverse n i had all kinds of stuff messed up too had input gear on the input shaft on wrong side of nut i missed the Orings in front diff when i put my od in all this same time as i switched transmitters snd esc to the mb100 oh n where bushing goes in trans i had a bearing guess when i tore it down the bushing went bouncing lol so from jun until now i went thru 4 or 5 motors and 2esc's 2transmissions but ya know what? I gotter did now well waiting on a rockwolf esc to get in atock hopefully this week i was told if not i know by next Friday they'll have em thats the original date i was told
@ yeah i got a bunch of videos well a bunch fir me anyway btw im starting a podcast fir the rc youtube community i have a a handful of channels that have agreed to do be interviewed would you be interested ? By chance my gmail is full or id email ya but my fb page is the same as my channel here if you could shoot me a message back there id appreciate it
@@DubVredneckI have a Injora purple viper in my ascent18 and it is great. I’m going to be getting a purple viper for a scx24 transmission soon,so I hope the 2800kv isn’t too spicy.
@ idk about the mb100 for the accent if they're different or the same im just goin by my experience with the scx24 mb100
Yo
Howdy👊
Found on AliExpress for £23 😮
Really? 8 channel version?
I can found 32e but its not with metal wheel
Why my brain keeps remembering how the trx4 sport climbed those spots so easy,and now i watch element with fusion littlebit battleing some of those spots🫠🫣
Ofc the new controller might have to do something about driving style for a while, but im totally getting that for my sport high trail tq:s replacement,so i can get lights,and maybe 2nd gear, does that reciever have any change to get it fit trx4 sport water proofed case?😮 and can it light up lights ny plugging to free channels without some kind of light box?😊
If you run oe traxxas lights, you have to run the traxxas light modules because their system is limited to 3volts.
@@rolandwittwer5026 nope,haven bought lights yet because sport is only 2 channel,i will get aftermarket ledbar that goes to reciever for power