I ventured into learning everything I could about motorcycles to help with my depression and bought a Street Cup with my savings knowing 0 about motorcycles, I'm at approx 3000 miles and I'm doing my first oil change by myself. You have no idea how thankful I am for your amazing videos and wisdom shared on top of sharing your skill. I appreciate you a lot man.
Thank you for the cool feedback Victor, its great to know that our videos have been able to help you out and set you onto a few small house keeping jobs you can do yourself.. taking care of your bike at home broadens the pride of ownership and in my opinion brings you closer in touch with your bike and its needs.. and all together makes for a better ownership experience don't you think.! Enjoy your Triumph and ride safe mate... Cheers Del .
Hugo i've been learning to understand my bipolar for some fifty years now and I've learnt that the best antidepressant medication is riding my bike I've been doing this for sixty one years now and it's never let me down so keep on ridding
I remember my dad telling me the best way to really clean out your old oil from within the entire inside of the oil pan and engine parts is to use a cheap oil and this will assure better cleansing and clarity of the better oil and longer life for the engine parts which i know when taking your vehicle for oil change will never be done. Great segment and thank you.
I am learning a lot. When I had my old 1973 Honda CB350G back in the day I did not have anyone to teach me anything when I was 16. My Dad had passed the year prior. Your videos are excellent. :)
I watched this one for pure pleasure in the production, rather than in any expectation of learning something new to me (about changing oil and filters), but, as ever, found there was something useful in the way of know-how to take from it. 👍
You're videos are literally the best on youtube when it comes to maintenance, so much knowledge and so much care to the viewer! You sir are second to none!
I always thought it a good idea to run the bike before draining the oil to consolidate all the particulates into the oil itself, as it would have settled out over time. Particulate may not have only settled in the sump but on other parts of the engine too. But as always I trust your judgement Del. Great video, thank you.
Maybe in an old engine Tom.. but 'Particles', don't get any on modern clean burn motors mate... and even if you did... think about mixing those particles all round the motor, and when that extra half pint stays in the motor.. the particles stay with it..?
G'day Del, Penny!!. Nice to see you passing on ur skill's, " good o'l school mechanics" done the right way!! There are plenty of monkeys out there, even at our age!! Pity you don't live up the road, u'd be a very busy boy around here!!! !! Cheers mate. Perth Australia
Great video. Just bought the same bike and had it shipped halfway across frozen cold Canada just before winter hit. I had one quick ride before the snow came so glad to find this video as the bike I bought has been sitting a couple of years and may need an oil change.
Hi Jackson, at least you managed one ride before the snow... hope it's not too long before you get back on the road... hope the video helps, plenty more on Triumphs in our playlist ! Stay warm, D&Px
your videos have save me hundreds of $$$. on skills I can use at home. I used a big washer to take the oil plug out. seemed to get it out with out buggering it up. thank you for useful info.
Thanks for the tip of the hat to those of us that have to lay up for 6m due to snow :-) I saturate (pre-oil) side mount and cartridge filters before inserting, and drain off excess so it doesn't drip (much). My logic is it may take a second or so for the pump to saturate the paper before flowing past. I also warm the sump with a small space heater before the first spring change. I also don't start it for the same reasons as you mentioned. Something worth mentioning about air box, snorkels etc. Manufacturers factor in resonance at different RPM points and often use that to compensate for peaks and drops in the power curve. If you change something like air box configuration or exhaust, then adjustments need to be made. You may gain at one point in curve, but lose elsewhere. With a "map-able" bike this is easier to fix than a carb bike. As always... Thanks for all your efforts. Cheers
Hi Darren... "Moles under a lawn" we used to call it.. and i fiddled with carbs to iron out flat spots long before fuel injection was common... you are right, bikes are a balance of performance and tractability.. but before you get to all that, you have to consider the tree huggers influence.. bikes are imported running almost dangerously lean these days just to placate the vegetarians.. but once you fuel up for that, and cool the bike down (simple stage one remap and free flow pipes etc), then the EFI can cope with most fluctuation aye... oh how easy they have it now days ..lol
honestly the best oil change video for a triumph on the internet. you made this idiot proof, as evidenced by me changing my oil today with out any leaks or problems. thank you del and penny. and you were right about that oil filter. it is a bitch to remove if over tightened.
Sure thing buddy, it does, and has always, seemed to be a worry that oil filters will leak, so thought we'd make it clear it only needs that half extra turn... and of course if it does weep, just another 1/8th turn will do it... thank you for your kind words, we both really appreciate it - ride safe !
On the Ironhead you never want to pull the plugs out of bottom of the engine it's just asking for trouble and wont drain the oil anyway. Great video as always!
All Sportsters are dry sump, you drain the tank, if you wanna change what is in the engine, you just purge it through, same as the Softtail... Triumph's a wet sump, so it's ok!
bit the bullet today and serviced my R1, cleaned calipers, new pads, new fluid, new oil, filter, air filter, lubed and set chain, good to go and hit the road thanks.
Canada ? North America ? Scunthorpe !!!! I sold mine in October and bought again in Feb what a fanny I am..... Any how a great way to spend a lunch break on a 12 shift is to watch you doing bike stuff awesome very concise and as usual well presented and superbly filmed..Cheers you two xxxxxxxx
I'll be doing an oil change shortly when Canadian winter ends, and I like that you brought up that argument. I will be testing out the theory of not starting the bike first. I actually have a snake camera with an led light that I think is small enough to fit inside the oil plug. So I'm going to let the oil drain for quite some time and stick the camera in and see what's left at the bottom of the sump. Hopefully I can see well enough inside there. I'll take pictures and if you are interested Del I can email you and show you what I've discovered.
The sump hole is 12mm buddy.. that must be a small camera then..? (are you a secret agent on the side lol) I drained mine without starting it, and got 4 liters out.. the service xchange should be 3.8lts.. so happy with that..!
Another informative video with clear instructions, please never get rid of the triumph as i have learnt so much from your maintenance of the scrambler that i can use on my T100. it takes a lot of time and effort to edit a video for youtube and it's very much appreciated. The internet is a wonderful thing and so is youtube when it is used by people like yourself rather than stupid pranksters and moronic road rage videos. Mind you the odd cat video is quite good too.
Ha ha i agree... way too many fail videos on the net now, and maybe it says a lot about our society.. we must be more keen than ever to laugh at others misfortune... Glad the videos can help, yes they do take a long time to create from the raw footage.. about 16 hours on these ones... but we do it because we love it.. so its here to stay.. just like the Triumph... another video on this up tomorrow..! Thanks mate.. del.
Great video bruv. I ran my old p reg divi for about 450 miles, that's about a month going to and from work with about a 50 50 mix of engine flush and oil in the bike and it ran surprisingly well lol. This wasn't done deliberately I got distracted at some point and forgot. I can't remember what distracted me but when I realised I drained it out and it was like parafin. I got covered when I undone the sump bolt and I gotta be honest, it don't taste great and it doesn't help your skin on your face either, it burns lol. All the best and Ride safe bruv.
Ooh nasty.. i imagine it would have done a bit of internal wear at the same time too... but hey ho.. done now aye.. lol and yer not sposed to drink it..!
I just got my first bike a 2017 scrambler (still the 865 efi air cooled model) love your videos. Mine already had the air box delete and secondary air injection removed by the dealer. The only reason I want to change parts is less about horses and more about weight and usability. Lighter exhaust with a ttp tune to make everything a bit lighter and smoother. : )
I would like to add to your argument on the air box. I have a '06 Bonnie and I went back and forth on the whole gutting of the air box or leaving it alone conundrum. Another consideration I believe that can be made is if you are a rider that uses your Bonnie in all kinds of weather (which I do) then the factory air box from Triumph is a brilliant design. I rode my bike in the rain when I lived in England and water consumption was never an issue at all. I have been caught in a few storms which some were pretty stupid to be trapped in but the air box did an excellent job of keeping the intakes dry. I agree that the few horse power gains you might get is kind nominal in comparison to what you are looking at.
Sure thing buddy, it's always baffled me why so many people think that removing an air box gains power... we have always needed a stationary quantity of air for the engine to draw upon... free from turbulence and external weather conditions...!
A very well done video as always. I like to think of myself as 'ok' on bike maintenance, but I've never seen one of your videos in which I haven't learnt at least one new/better/easier way of doing things. BTW, regarding the run/don't run the bike before an oil change debate, I apply heat from a hot air gun (low setting) to the bottom of the engine casing for a short while: I reckon that gives me the best of both worlds. ;-) Keep up the good work.
Storming towards 70k I see? Well deserved I say, always wondered about the cold oil method, gonna try it this time, as the Dullville is due a full service. Might even treat it to a flashy "decent" air filter too, thanks for that info too! Keep them coming, ride safe u2, and I'm looking forward to the "fighter" paintjob videos!
Hi del. absolutely love your videos!!!! I Have been looking to service my triumph for the shims and valve clearances like you just mentioned at 12k. Half the videos I have been watching are no way as informative as yours. Will you be bringing this service to our Bonnevilles (scramblers) in the future.... Is the only one and very important one you haven’t covered. Thankyou a million for great videos!!
Recommend OEM oil filter (made by WIX) and Motul 5100 15W-50 synth. blend, rather than 10W-40. OEM air filter HiFLO Filtro flows more air than K&N when clean and filters better.
As already said you summed up the air box debate perfectly, and the filter debate, when you said if you want a fast bike get a street triple, really said it all, the superficial MOD industry is full of it, spot on again Del 👍 foe whats its worth ive got a a ‘fast’ naked bike ( a KTM 790 Duke) goes like s of a shiney shovel! So what i more often bimble around within speed limits, honestly a comfortable bike is a sensible bike, take in the scenery not hold on and hooligan it, ok sometimes its nice but overall comfort over speed for me
Too right matey, sick of the rain and cold... enough now thanks.. time for summer rides in hoodies and jeans...yay.! (Got your Stormin' ticket yet then mate?)
I agree, best to let it drain cold after bike has been laid up for a couple of months. Just changed the oil on my Bullet and it took awhile, but looks like just about all of it drained.
My brother recommended changing the oil in the fall (Canada cold brrr). Because a spring change would allow all that corrosive crud to sit there all Winter, It sounds logical. Do you have any insights into the corrosive crap that can cumulate in motor oil and does it make a difference? I used to change my oil in the spring...
Only in this myth about "corrosive crud"... if it existed, then yes, obviously... but it doesn't.. there is nothing more harmful in old oil than water from condensation..the hard steel internals of your motor are at the greatest risk from rust.. not these mythical 'acids' i keep hearing about... the oil is not acidic, and nothing that happens to it in your motor will make it so, you cannot change the entire chemical makeup of oil because its gets hot and mushed.. so working on the principle that the water content could cause a little rust on inner surfaces.. then yeah, change it in the fall... but then over 5 months sat in a cold garage.. you'll get just as much condensation in it, if not maybe more.... so i like to change mine fresh for the new season's riding.. no water, just fresh clean oil form a sealed pack..!
Hi Del, i have to say i removed the baffle, snorkel (which i cut out centre to leave the ring, saving £70) removed the lambda sensors and the air injection system with TTP map4 for the Tec 2.2,,,,,, and even though i am not an experienced rider i found that my bonnie became less hesitant at low speeds and in traffic,,,,, it reduced the revs at high speed making it feel less urgent (reassuring for a new rider) Just thought i would relay my experience of these alterations to the bonnie,,, and as this is m,y only bike another 10hp makes it a good deal. Take care both, talk soon.
Hi Tony... 10bhp? thats 20% increase.. no change mate.... you'll be lucky to have maybe 3bhp at the top end on the rev limiter... all those mods do is iron things out that are caused by the emission restrictions.. everyone who does it seems to rant how good it is.. but if they put their bikes on a dyno before and after... then they'd be hugely disappointed, at some points in the graph it will actually be making LESS bhp, "less urgent at high speed"?.. but if you're happier with it, and can accept that there is a certain placebo effect to that stuff..then its no harm..!
Moonfleet41 totally Agee Del,,, as you know im a sponge when it comes to learning about biking because im so green,,, but defo feels better to me as i have no reference point,,,, its my first bike. Take care both.
If you have a free afternoon.. take a Street Triple for a ride mate... then you'll know what power feels like for the first time.... and you'll see how futile tuning a bonneville is.. .lol!
I work on a lot of the new Triumph motocycles,and if i had to choose it would be a Bonneville.They are simple bikes with a lot of character.As for the oil debate,i dont think it really matters.The oils we have now are full of detergents so they will clean everything in the engine.Of course if an engine is parked outside and the oil is full of condensation its a totally different matter.I wouldnt start it for an oil change either
can get out door unless your lee stuart :D good work Del and Penny, Change bike there few weeks ago , got a honda shadow 1100 ace. 1997, only 13k miles on it.
hi delboy im 70 now and when I was training to be a mechanic not a fitter we had flush oils dint use them I you just tick over the engine we used paraffin which is a very thin oil and wont damage the new oil or the engine
Good to hear from you mate, I think the old ways have never gone away, they just seem to be replaced with fancy chemicals to make people wealthy! Drop of paraffin is a perfect solution...
I live in Canada. Laid bike up in October. Bought it in October and rode it for one day, from home to storage. Its a brand new bike from the showroom has 19 klm on it. 2014 Bonneville T100SE. Do I still need to change fluids and oil? I know they been sitting for five months, but the bike has seen no rode travel.
No Sonny, that will be fine to just ride.. the Gas could do with changing though.. siphon out as much as you can from the tank, and fill with fresh hi octain gas, the stuff thats in there now will be nasty and acidic.. get rid of it..! but the oil will be ok..! take it back for service at 1000 miles though.!
Aww my... now what to do, I've managed to catch up on all the episodes ... bly me ill start all over again, after all spring isn't here yet, and i still haven't got my "new" ride home
Here's a question Del....if you don't mind, and that is a lot of people have to check their oil at the side of the road or driveway/pavement or something, none of which are nice and level. Now as you know when checking your oil especially alone all you can lean the bike even a tiny amount and it significantly increases or decreases the level in the window, so my question is what's the margin of error to avoid to much oil pressure or doing some kind of damage?
Ok buddy, I see you're worried, but one thing I can dispel for you is you use the word 'significiantly' with reference to how much it changes the level if you're not on level ground, that's actually not so... obviously if the bike is leaning way over, or it's way upright, then it will make a small difference, but it's not critical... your bike could be a pint down on oil and that's perfectly ok, so the level isn't critical on the stick, and also remember, if you're going to check your oil on the roadside in some sort of emergency situation, then why are you doing so? Take the time to find some level ground, a driveway, or garage, and check it when it's upright... if you checked it at the beginning of the week and rode it every day, it wouldn't significantly drop inside 5 days, unless you had a leak, so really buddy, don't over think it and don't worry... just check it, maybe, when you're next filling the bike up, gas stations are usually level and it's a perfect chance to do it.... and if you were to check your oil every time you filled up, or even every other time, you'd never need to check it elsewhere again.
Hey Del -- absolutely love your channel. I've probably watched every one of the Bonnie videos a dozen times. I have a question for you... I picked up a brand new (well, 2015, but new bike--only 3 miles on it when I picked it up) Bonneville in November because the price was right, and put 'er right into a friend's heated basement for the Buffalo winter; been running the bike every week or so for a while just to keep it from sitting too long. Should I still do a complete oil change before getting her out of on the road (when the snow melts..)? Thank you for all you do!
Quiet Chaos if you go to the play lists there's one for scrambler with a bunch of vids making the bash plate after about a hundred (sorry Del dozen) making the exhaust (mk1 with the holes and gold )☺
interesting comment about the oil... I'm about to change mine in the bikes that have been kept indoors over winter, and I was going to fire up the engines... but, having thought about it now, I won't bother... thanks again Del....keep up the good work... btw, in case you read these comments and totally off topic..., did you ever see anything come from the Harley Europe trip??? I haven't seen any video clips, comments, pictures or anything about the winners trip....
Hi mate.. yes, leave the oil set in the sump then just drop it.. i got a full 4 liters changedm and the oil on the glass now is golden clear..! With that HD Disocer More thing... i got top five, won a fashion jacket and that was it... the winner, a chap called Louis Castilla from Spain was the winner.. he was a seasoned media professional, already had lots of radio work and magazine stuff.. blogs and TV spots.. so they chose who they wanted i guess.. but yes, the tour he went on was pretty much private, hardly any social media coverage, a few photos on the HD competition page itself.. and that was it.. never saw the outcome other then that.. I would certainly have made so much more of it than that... i had the interview with the head Office guys in Oxford.. they asked what i would do with the bike... i said id have taken the bike on a tour of the WW2 concentration camps, to say a prayer and reflect at each one, and flaunt the coolest symbol of freedom in the world, in the faces of the oppressors... also planned to visit all the HD dealers en route, and maybe drag the local HOG guys on the trip with me... but i guess they didn't see the depth of meaning in that.. ho hum. On the other hand, we have entered the same competition this year.. been for the obligatory test ride, and the prize is a trip to the factory in Milwaukee, now that would be cool.. but im sure there will be millions of applicants for that one..! Thanks for your support buddy.. take care.. del.
If I drain it like you after all the oil came down after a couple of weeks of the bike standing, do I run the danger of destroying anything as there won‘t be oil in the upper parts of the engine (piston/cylinderhead/valves) when I crank it up? Like there‘s not enough oilpressure the second I engage the Ignition?
I logical question for sure, but if you have good quality oil in there, even if it needs changing, then some will still cling to the insides of the motor, even at the top end, certainly in just a couple of weeks, so don't over think it mate, the new oil will get up to the head in a few turns of the motor and it'll be fine..
Cheers mate, you truly are the GOAT, especially with a reply sooo quickly. I use Motul 300V 15W50 (on the last and also for this upcoming oilchange), so I guess it‘s rather premium. I hope you‘ll get another Modern Classic for a new project next year, such a huge fan of your work. Bore a Royal Enfield Twin up to 865ccm or smth haha anyways, happy holidays and keep the content coming next year!
@@pleasediexo I will indeed sir, this project was to explore something different, but im already missing having a more hard core street bike on the bench, something i can make a bit more radical.. it's all good encouragement, so thank you for the nudge..
@@Moonfleet41 Yesterday I bought a 2021-2 Triumph Bonneville T120 Matt Black / Graphite gold line series. It appears that many pundits are correct. Not allowed to do any aftermarket mods like that anymore. As in air filter, exhaust systems etc etc etc. ECU will no longer recognise these differences. A person with a Masters degree in engineering explained things to me, but it is deep for me to understand. For all you other people hang on to your Euro 4 bikes. What have you heard Mr Delroy ? Salesman also went over this with me yesterday. Merry Xmas UK people. NZ
Hi, need to ask something not related to this vdo. I ride a water cooled T100. At speeds above 80 kmph the front end starts to wobble when both hands are off the handlebar. Have checked with Triumph workshop and everything seems to be in factory setting. Can you guess what is at fault?
Hi buddy, that sounds disconcerting, could it be tyre pressure?? Or possibly, un-even tyre wear?? If your front tyre has been run under-inflated for any length of time, then it wears in to a 'v-shape' and develops a point in the middle... and this will definitely cause the front to shake, specially when slowing down... it may be shouldered one side more than the other (usually the right side if you ride on the left) (Not sure if you're in England)... failing that, check your head stock bearings, make sure they're in perfect working order, and on a more distant possiblity... rear wheel alignment and chain tension... it's hard to say, without more information, but there's some things to check!
Hi. Thanks for the reply. One of my friends also face the same problem. He recently changed his tyre to a new one. Still it's there. The wobble disappears as the bike slows done. But it's there between 80-100 kmph. Will check, head stock bearings and rear wheel alignment, even though it's a new bike. Thanks again :) btw, it is something similar to this th-cam.com/video/z3OQTU-kE2s/w-d-xo.html
About running the engine vs not running it before draining. I'm a noob mechanic, no doubt but I've tried both, and honestly, I've never gotten exactly every little drop of old oil out and the amount of oil I can put in is pretty much the same. So I'm guessing do whatever way you want and you'll get the same result ? Edit: Oh you said that later in the video, I really should watch all of it before commenting :D
HAHA!! I wonder what part of this video you will get more grief over? Calling the Twin a " Street Cruiser" ("Did you just call my Retro Classic with its fake carbs and other bits a Cruiser?" How dare... HAHA!!). Calling people out on taking the airbox etc.. out for no reason other than wasting money or the "You want a fast bike then buy a fast bike instead"... Love it!!! I have a uni filter and I hate it, will give this one a try Thanks!
Yes mate, the oil will pump itself in there within the first 10secs, the only reason to pre-fill it is so the level just drop so much after the first start up...!
Hi. I have a 2016 Triumph Bonneville T100 I bought used with 535km on it. It needed an out of province inspection at that point so had the shop look over then. Do you think I require a 1000km service still ? Or would it be ok if I were just to change the oil myself at this point. Your advice would be much appreciated, Thanks!
Hi mate, i am assuming you are at 1000km now?? we do it at 600miles here, same thing... and yes, you really should do it... I don't exactly know what an out of province inspection is, but the word inspection infers that it was simply a look over, and the first service is more than that... it's important the oil is changed at the latest around 1200km, cos the initial running in oil needs to do it's work of letting the engine bed in, and then be removed for some decent quality oil and a filter... also, it's a great way to give the bike a thorough check over after it's first 1000... and as it's, obviously, still under warranty, you may as well get it done to cover yourself, shouldn't cost much, most Triumph dealers here do it for about half the price of a decent service... best of luck with it, all the best, Del
Thank you for the awesome video. I just bought a triumph scramble 2017 and the wrench service indicator comes up. Any idea on how to remove it? Thank you.
My 2015 scrambler with 4000 miles makes a clutch noise when cold, do you think is a too dense oil problem? I´ve experimented a similar problem on a dirt bike, change oil to a thinner one and problem solved, do you think that´ll help?
great video as always Del, ive just changed my pads to sintered HH pads and changed the oil etc, on my triumph daytona 955i, followed all your instructions, easy peasy, i have a question about MOT's on motorcycles......if your bike is fitted with a twin seat or a passenger seat, does the foot pegs need to be fitted? i never carry anyone and have a exhaust hanger fitted, taken the pegs off? will it fail? its in next week......
Ok, good question, and it goes a bit like this,,,,, "The pillion MUST have a dedicated foot peg on which to rest their feet safely... so if a back seat is fitted, then YES you must have foot pegs... but if no seat is fitted, then no need for foot pegs..as its a single seat bike..(and those seat cover type hump things the sports bikes have isnt enough...the seat cant just be 'covered' it must have no seat there at all...) Hope that helps..!
Moonfleet41 yes it does, so basically, i would be better off putting the pegs back on for the MOT and then take them off afterwards.......thanks mate... (it'll only take twenty mins to refit them so to save any hassle ill do that...)
Just check your back door too mate, i think its a 'construction and use offence' too... which means the Vossa Tossas can stick you on for it on the roadside..! long shot, and not likely, but good to know if it was..!
Moonfleet41 thanks mate, good thought, ill just stick them back on, along with the correct size plate, lol, might as well get it right first time, then take em off again,....
Another fantastic video - thanks guys! Although the filtration of the new filter is assumed to be better than the K&N, there's no mention of air-flow. Have to wonder if that extra filtration will suffocate the engine?
The air flow itself is largely academic Barry.. the filter medium is much the same stuff, you can see the same amount of light through it.. but its the larger amount of filter medium available that makes a difference, the motor will pull the same volume of air over a given time...so as it gets drawn through a 'larger' filer, then the 'inhaled' particles have more space to spread out, and wont clog up as quick..so the filter retains it original air flow longer..! either way.. for the same money as the K&N, its a way better product by a country mile... hope K&N are watching, time to step up methinks..
Another great video. Personally, I warm the bike up before draining, but then again, I don't let my oil get dirty. Frequent oil changes are the best maintenance that you can give any internal combustion engine.
Over the course of 3 months, almost half a pint more oil will be in the sump.....run it for just 60 seconds, and thats gone.. best you'll drain out is the usual service amount.. so if its ridden all the time, then yeah, always warm it up.. but what an opportunity to get it all out of its been laid up..!!
You did the right thing Del, but not completely for the right reason. This 'drain oil hot' question has been around since before I was born, before multi-grade oils. The mistake you made was saying at 4:35 "When oil gets hot, it gets thinner and more runny". That was the case for decades but not now. Mutli-grade oil Does Not do this. It actually gets thicker as it gets hot. 10W-30 or 10W-40 oil is 10W oil at ambient temps. As the oil temp increases, the carbon molecules link together by thermally driven chemical reaction. It is true the ambient temp weight of the oil will thicken modestly with usage but if the oil is changed at regular intervals that slight thickening is insignificant with regard to oil changes. There is not only no valid reason to drain oil hot, it is actually counter to the intent of having a more complete oil change. Like you said, 'a bunch more oil will be staying in the engine if it was just ran' when you pull the HOT plug and the HOT oil fry's your hand. It's not just unnecessary, it is counter to the intent of complete oil change. Multi-weight oil gets thicker as it goes up in temp, that's how it works. Some old mechanics theories (and I have many of my own), die hard. Cheers.
Moonfleet41 I just liked the look of black springs and gold bottles. Mine turned up today and I got itchy fingers a fitted them. Still looking forward to the video though
Hi Jessica... stick a couple of pints of diesel in it, slosh it all around by shaking the tank...and it'll be cleaner than a joke on children's hour..!
Is this on a motorcycle Jessica,? you dont get "sludge" in the oil system, thats what the filter is for... is this some old vintage bike been laid up for 30 years..?
Moonfleet41 yeah, it was on a '95 sporty laid up in a garage for about 2 years through summer/winter. Came back from living overseas, drained and flushed new oil through a few times had some sludge still in the tank after but wasn't sure if there would be any risk through the rest of the system
No, Not at all Jess, its not that long two years... modern oil doesn't separate, it may be water even.. just fill with oil, do 100 miles, then change it again for some top line "Screaming Eagle Syn3 oil" and a new filter each time.. job done..!
As always guys, great video and great explanations. Even though I've done A LOT of oil changes on bikes, cars, 4x4's etc I always find there's some little tit-bit that you add and makes me pause for thought. However, I must just take issue with you on the usefulness or otherwise of modifying the inlet side of the motor. As you know I had a 2010 T100 EFI. I gutted the airbox (removed the snorkle and filter retain plate, baffle plate) installed a DNA foam filter, removed the AI and O² sensors and installed a map to take account of the changes. What was the effect? Much smoother, more immediate acceleration,. Revs faster and higher, generally feels significantly more energetic. Better mpg too. I enjoyed the bike much more. What was the cost? £200 in total.
Hi David... i stand by those points mate... put your bike on a Dyno, and it wont be making more then a couple extra BHP, and not across the range, just at the top end at best....also, once you remove the O2 sensors and install a fixed map, you may aswell fit carbs.. the ECU now cant make any changes for temperature or humidity because in taking out the Lambda sensors, you've blinded it to what the bike is doing... Those mods you've made do make the bike feel a little smother, but no extra power.. it just irons out the wrinkles that emission regs bring.. overall though, if you're happier with it, then thats what matters aye.
Hi mate, when I did the work on the T100 I did not install a 'fixed' map. You can remove the O² sensors and the AI whilst still retaining oil and air temp sensors plus MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensors. This allows the ECU to fuel the bike optimally irrespective of ambient temp or altitude based air pressure. So it leaves the ECU loads of work to do, it just cuts out the switching between tables, that the standard bike can suffer from.
Hi Del and Penny. Another brilliant and understandable demonstration of why one is better than the other. C-moto...Semoto is the thing? Keep it up and greetings from Colombia.
The oil thing is a point of discussion, that´s for sure. I suppose that, doing it your way, all the dirt and the metall chippings which are in the oil will sink to the bottom of the reservoir and don´t come out if you drain the oil cold. By the way, Del, are you a drummer, because you wear a cap from Evans drum heads?
Ha ha, "Evans Waterless Coolants".. and im about as musical as a bin lid..! I hear a lot about metal chippings and dirt... but they just dont exist in modern clean burn motors.. the black is from soot, but nowt else, there isn't even a magnet on the plug any more.! The other issue, is were there to be bits in the oil.. then what about the half pint you wont get out if you run it... that will be full of bits, and they'll stay there...?? equal points for both aye..! lol
Ok I take that. But in return I think by running the motor, you stir up all the sludge and than drain the most of it out of the motor. By not running the motor this sludge stays in the recesses auf the sump an will not come out. Question is which method is best to get rid of this residues?
Yes in Canada we lay them up for months and months and months aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa! Winter please go away! I'm tired of just watching video, I want to get to work and then ride.
Few more videos tom come yet buddy.. life gets in the way of projects sometimes, got some new shocks to fit on the Triumph, and also on the Softail too.. also a few cool tools to give away this weekend.. then back to business...
Not really 'better', just maybe a bit faster as you let air in more freely... otherwise it only had the crank case breathers to git through as the oil drains out..! if the oil is red hot then its better if it doesnt gush out suddenly...lol
Great stuff Del. Interesting chat about add on's. I reckon the engineers generally get it right. Love the 'Bonnie' Any thoughts on the new liquid cooled Bonnie T120 1200cc? As always cheers.
No Jack, no thoughts mate... not a bike id buy even with your money..! so glad we bought this Scrambler when we did.. and the 'engineers' may get it right.. but the accountants make them cut to the cheapest options for more profit.. The factory shocks on this were truly shockin, the discs and sprockets are all Chinese, the spokes on the factory wheels rusted in three months.. etc etc etc and and and.... dont get me started.. bikes are built for profit, not quality buddy..!
Ah yes the dreaded bean counters'. Always a battle between the engineers, profits & shareholders. I here what your saying about Chinese parts. Personally I dread it when I find out an OEM part is 'made under license' in China. Cheers Del
Yeah, and just when you get used to knowing that all the consumable parts of your Bonneville are made in China.... you then discover the bike itself is made in Thailand...lol!
My favourite channel on TH-cam. Always feels homely and welcoming and music's always top quality. Keep em coming you two...love what you do!
^^^^ What this man says... Agree entirely!!
Thank you most kindly sir, you are most welcome..
totaly agree with you. this channel is so good
i know it's quite randomly asking but does anybody know a good place to stream new tv shows online?
@Stanley Melvin I watch on flixzone. You can find it on google :)
I ventured into learning everything I could about motorcycles to help with my depression and bought a Street Cup with my savings knowing 0 about motorcycles, I'm at approx 3000 miles and I'm doing my first oil change by myself.
You have no idea how thankful I am for your amazing videos and wisdom shared on top of sharing your skill. I appreciate you a lot man.
Thank you for the cool feedback Victor, its great to know that our videos have been able to help you out and set you onto a few small house keeping jobs you can do yourself.. taking care of your bike at home broadens the pride of ownership and in my opinion brings you closer in touch with your bike and its needs.. and all together makes for a better ownership experience don't you think.! Enjoy your Triumph and ride safe mate... Cheers Del .
Hugo i've been learning to understand my bipolar for some fifty years now and I've learnt that the best antidepressant medication is riding my bike I've been doing this for sixty one years now and it's never let me down so keep on ridding
great advice I've been a mechanic for over 33 years and I use your advise and totally agree. keep up the good work. it makes perfect sense. 👍
Thanks buddy, its good to get a rubber stamp from a professional mechanic.. much appreciated sir.. !
I remember my dad telling me the best way to really clean out your old oil from within the entire inside of the oil pan and engine parts is to use a cheap oil and this will assure better cleansing and clarity of the better oil and longer life for the engine parts which i know when taking your vehicle for oil change will never be done. Great segment and thank you.
Exactly right, I totally agree my friend... and have said this many times in videos...
I am learning a lot. When I had my old 1973 Honda CB350G back in the day I did not have anyone to teach me anything when I was 16. My Dad had passed the year prior. Your videos are excellent. :)
Sorry to hear that Sonny.. tats a horrible time to lose your Dad... im honoured that we can help mate.!
I watched this one for pure pleasure in the production, rather than in any expectation of learning something new to me (about changing oil and filters), but, as ever, found there was something useful in the way of know-how to take from it. 👍
You're videos are literally the best on youtube when it comes to maintenance, so much knowledge and so much care to the viewer! You sir are second to none!
Thank you Brad, that's very generous of you, so good to hear you enjoy the videos, ride safe, D&Px
I always thought it a good idea to run the bike before draining the oil to consolidate all the particulates into the oil itself, as it would have settled out over time. Particulate may not have only settled in the sump but on other parts of the engine too. But as always I trust your judgement Del. Great video, thank you.
Maybe in an old engine Tom.. but 'Particles', don't get any on modern clean burn motors mate... and even if you did... think about mixing those particles all round the motor, and when that extra half pint stays in the motor.. the particles stay with it..?
G'day Del, Penny!!. Nice to see you passing on ur skill's, " good o'l school mechanics" done the right way!! There are plenty of monkeys out there, even at our age!! Pity you don't live up the road, u'd be a very busy boy around here!!! !! Cheers mate. Perth Australia
Great video. Just bought the same bike and had it shipped halfway across frozen cold Canada just before winter hit. I had one quick ride before the snow came so glad to find this video as the bike I bought has been sitting a couple of years and may need an oil change.
Hi Jackson, at least you managed one ride before the snow... hope it's not too long before you get back on the road... hope the video helps, plenty more on Triumphs in our playlist ! Stay warm, D&Px
@@Moonfleet41 For sure. I've been checking them out. I think I stumbled upon you from Tec Bike parts and have been following your projects ever since.
Lots of good advice in this video, thanks for being honest
Superb videos on how to do everything on your bonneville. Very clear instructions. Ive used a lot of them to maintain and improve my bonne.
Thank you Terence, we're glad the videos can help you out. have a good weekend buddy.. Del.
I change mine exactly the same way as you do and had conversations on why I do it that way. 👍🏻
Great tutorial mate.😎
Great summary as ever. Liking the torque settings you are now adding. Looking forward to seeing the pair of you out and about.
Much better position for the filter than on the HD, such a breeze doing the change on the Triumph. Good hat there Del---got my name on it
Ha ha yeah.. i bet you wish you owned a few shares in that company now aye...lol!
your videos have save me hundreds of $$$. on skills I can use at home. I used a big washer to take the oil plug out. seemed to get it out with out buggering it up. thank you for useful info.
Delboy you should have a TV show, this video is brilliantly explained I’ve watched it three times it’s just so entertaining.
Thank you David, you are very kind, and wouldn't that be a dream come true.
Thanks for the tip of the hat to those of us that have to lay up for 6m due to snow :-)
I saturate (pre-oil) side mount and cartridge filters before inserting, and drain off excess so it doesn't drip (much). My logic is it may take a second or so for the pump to saturate the paper before flowing past. I also warm the sump with a small space heater before the first spring change. I also don't start it for the same reasons as you mentioned. Something worth mentioning about air box, snorkels etc. Manufacturers factor in resonance at different RPM points and often use that to compensate for peaks and drops in the power curve. If you change something like air box configuration or exhaust, then adjustments need to be made. You may gain at one point in curve, but lose elsewhere. With a "map-able" bike this is easier to fix than a carb bike.
As always... Thanks for all your efforts.
Cheers
Hi Darren... "Moles under a lawn" we used to call it.. and i fiddled with carbs to iron out flat spots long before fuel injection was common... you are right, bikes are a balance of performance and tractability.. but before you get to all that, you have to consider the tree huggers influence.. bikes are imported running almost dangerously lean these days just to placate the vegetarians.. but once you fuel up for that, and cool the bike down (simple stage one remap and free flow pipes etc), then the EFI can cope with most fluctuation aye... oh how easy they have it now days ..lol
honestly the best oil change video for a triumph on the internet. you made this idiot proof, as evidenced by me changing my oil today with out any leaks or problems. thank you del and penny. and you were right about that oil filter. it is a bitch to remove if over tightened.
Sure thing buddy, it does, and has always, seemed to be a worry that oil filters will leak, so thought we'd make it clear it only needs that half extra turn... and of course if it does weep, just another 1/8th turn will do it... thank you for your kind words, we both really appreciate it - ride safe !
Really like your way you work with your bikes. Carefully and professionally and often with a small touch of finesse. 😊
Thank you so much 😀
On the Ironhead you never want to pull the plugs out of bottom of the engine it's just asking for trouble and wont drain the oil anyway. Great video as always!
All Sportsters are dry sump, you drain the tank, if you wanna change what is in the engine, you just purge it through, same as the Softtail... Triumph's a wet sump, so it's ok!
bit the bullet today and serviced my R1, cleaned calipers, new pads, new fluid, new oil, filter, air filter, lubed and set chain, good to go and hit the road thanks.
Stephen, thats awesome mate... thats about a £500 / £600 service mate... think what you can buy with that now...lol!
Your videos are great. Keep em coming. Found you randomly and glad I did. The content and detail is superb.
Thanks buddy... welcome aboard..
Canada ? North America ? Scunthorpe !!!! I sold mine in October and bought again in Feb what a fanny I am.....
Any how a great way to spend a lunch break on a 12 shift is to watch you doing bike stuff awesome very concise and as usual well presented and superbly filmed..Cheers you two xxxxxxxx
(P) I like the tip about the tape & mark on the oil filter, never heard that one. Great vid, as always, my friends!
I'll be doing an oil change shortly when Canadian winter ends, and I like that you brought up that argument. I will be testing out the theory of not starting the bike first.
I actually have a snake camera with an led light that I think is small enough to fit inside the oil plug. So I'm going to let the oil drain for quite some time and stick the camera in and see what's left at the bottom of the sump. Hopefully I can see well enough inside there.
I'll take pictures and if you are interested Del I can email you and show you what I've discovered.
The sump hole is 12mm buddy.. that must be a small camera then..? (are you a secret agent on the side lol) I drained mine without starting it, and got 4 liters out.. the service xchange should be 3.8lts.. so happy with that..!
Haha, yeah it's a tiny camera. I tend to browse random crap from china and it was $3 so why not lol.
Another informative video with clear instructions, please never get rid of the triumph as i have learnt so much from your maintenance of the scrambler that i can use on my T100. it takes a lot of time and effort to edit a video for youtube and it's very much appreciated. The internet is a wonderful thing and so is youtube when it is used by people like yourself rather than stupid pranksters and moronic road rage videos. Mind you the odd cat video is quite good too.
Ha ha i agree... way too many fail videos on the net now, and maybe it says a lot about our society.. we must be more keen than ever to laugh at others misfortune... Glad the videos can help, yes they do take a long time to create from the raw footage.. about 16 hours on these ones... but we do it because we love it.. so its here to stay.. just like the Triumph... another video on this up tomorrow..! Thanks mate.. del.
Great video bruv. I ran my old p reg divi for about 450 miles, that's about a month going to and from work with about a 50 50 mix of engine flush and oil in the bike and it ran surprisingly well lol. This wasn't done deliberately I got distracted at some point and forgot. I can't remember what distracted me but when I realised I drained it out and it was like parafin. I got covered when I undone the sump bolt and I gotta be honest, it don't taste great and it doesn't help your skin on your face either, it burns lol. All the best and Ride safe bruv.
Ooh nasty.. i imagine it would have done a bit of internal wear at the same time too... but hey ho.. done now aye.. lol and yer not sposed to drink it..!
Not advisable lol
I just got my first bike a 2017 scrambler (still the 865 efi air cooled model) love your videos. Mine already had the air box delete and secondary air injection removed by the dealer. The only reason I want to change parts is less about horses and more about weight and usability. Lighter exhaust with a ttp tune to make everything a bit lighter and smoother. : )
Congratulations on your bike buddy, enjoy and ride safe!
Yep, excellent channel - one of my favourite's here on YT. I always learn something new from Delboy's Garage. Isn't that what life is all about?
Thank you Darren, i learn a lot from YT as well, and its a great way for us all to share the things we know...
I would like to add to your argument on the air box. I have a '06 Bonnie and I went back and forth on the whole gutting of the air box or leaving it alone conundrum. Another consideration I believe that can be made is if you are a rider that uses your Bonnie in all kinds of weather (which I do) then the factory air box from Triumph is a brilliant design. I rode my bike in the rain when I lived in England and water consumption was never an issue at all. I have been caught in a few storms which some were pretty stupid to be trapped in but the air box did an excellent job of keeping the intakes dry. I agree that the few horse power gains you might get is kind nominal in comparison to what you are looking at.
Sure thing buddy, it's always baffled me why so many people think that removing an air box gains power... we have always needed a stationary quantity of air for the engine to draw upon... free from turbulence and external weather conditions...!
A very well done video as always. I like to think of myself as 'ok' on bike maintenance, but I've never seen one of your videos in which I haven't learnt at least one new/better/easier way of doing things.
BTW, regarding the run/don't run the bike before an oil change debate, I apply heat from a hot air gun (low setting) to the bottom of the engine casing for a short while: I reckon that gives me the best of both worlds. ;-)
Keep up the good work.
It's realy, realy cool to see your vidéos. Definitively my favorite channel on TH-cam. Thank you again and again and again...
Thank you so much for your kind words Cedre, it's great to have you abaord, have a great weekend my friend.
Storming towards 70k I see? Well deserved I say, always wondered about the cold oil method, gonna try it this time, as the Dullville is due a full service. Might even treat it to a flashy "decent" air filter too, thanks for that info too! Keep them coming, ride safe u2, and I'm looking forward to the "fighter" paintjob videos!
Thanks Ian, building subs fast now, really happy to be moving forward - thanks for watching, and all your support!
Thanks for the videos--it's really the finer points you learn that has so much value.
Thank you Jimbob, you are too kind.. im glad you enjoy the videos.. happy new year my friend.. Del.
You make nice videos. I can't tell you how many videos of yours that I've watched and I don't even own a Triumph!
Hi del. absolutely love your videos!!!! I Have been looking to service my triumph for the shims and valve clearances like you just mentioned at 12k. Half the videos I have been watching are no way as informative as yours. Will you be bringing this service to our Bonnevilles (scramblers) in the future.... Is the only one and very important one you haven’t covered. Thankyou a million for great videos!!
Answered on this same question the other video Steven!
What a beautiful bike that is. Thanks again for a great video buddy!
Why thank you most kindly sir, im very proud if it. Pennyx
Recommend OEM oil filter (made by WIX) and Motul 5100 15W-50 synth. blend, rather than 10W-40. OEM air filter HiFLO Filtro flows more air than K&N when clean and filters better.
As already said you summed up the air box debate perfectly, and the filter debate, when you said if you want a fast bike get a street triple, really said it all, the superficial MOD industry is full of it, spot on again Del 👍 foe whats its worth ive got a a ‘fast’ naked bike ( a KTM 790 Duke) goes like s of a shiney shovel! So what i more often bimble around within speed limits, honestly a comfortable bike is a sensible bike, take in the scenery not hold on and hooligan it, ok sometimes its nice but overall comfort over speed for me
Love the sand paper oil filter removal method. Really must get out more , great channel ,
What's the size of the aluminum washer? I have a Triumph Bonneville T100 from 2012, so it should probably be the same size as yours.
Spring is here, time to ride? Stop fixing that bike !! It's pristine :D
Too much is never enough buddy... it has a way to go yet...lol!
Hey 5 feet... relax, you can ride what you want. I stick to riding bikes.
spooky - time for the Big Boys spring oil change , did Rat Bastard yesterday ..... bring on the better weather !
Too right matey, sick of the rain and cold... enough now thanks.. time for summer rides in hoodies and jeans...yay.! (Got your Stormin' ticket yet then mate?)
How many kilometers that oil was used? Triumph indicates to replace oil each 10,000 km .
I think the oil was in good conditons still.
I agree, best to let it drain cold after bike has been laid up for a couple of months. Just changed the oil on my Bullet and it took awhile, but looks like just about all of it drained.
Thanks for the vids Del. Love your common sense no bs approach! You tha man! Looking fwd to future projects. Cheers from Canada.
Thanks Eddy, great to hear from you buddy... and really appreciate your kind comments, we just say it like it is aye!
My brother recommended changing the oil in the fall (Canada cold brrr). Because a spring change would allow all that corrosive crud to sit there all Winter, It sounds logical. Do you have any insights into the corrosive crap that can cumulate in motor oil and does it make a difference? I used to change my oil in the spring...
Only in this myth about "corrosive crud"... if it existed, then yes, obviously... but it doesn't.. there is nothing more harmful in old oil than water from condensation..the hard steel internals of your motor are at the greatest risk from rust.. not these mythical 'acids' i keep hearing about... the oil is not acidic, and nothing that happens to it in your motor will make it so, you cannot change the entire chemical makeup of oil because its gets hot and mushed.. so working on the principle that the water content could cause a little rust on inner surfaces.. then yeah, change it in the fall... but then over 5 months sat in a cold garage.. you'll get just as much condensation in it, if not maybe more.... so i like to change mine fresh for the new season's riding.. no water, just fresh clean oil form a sealed pack..!
Hi Del, i have to say i removed the baffle, snorkel (which i cut out centre to leave the ring, saving £70) removed the lambda sensors and the air injection system with TTP map4 for the Tec 2.2,,,,,, and even though i am not an experienced rider i found that my bonnie became less hesitant at low speeds and in traffic,,,,, it reduced the revs at high speed making it feel less urgent (reassuring for a new rider) Just thought i would relay my experience of these alterations to the bonnie,,, and as this is m,y only bike another 10hp makes it a good deal. Take care both, talk soon.
Hi Tony... 10bhp? thats 20% increase.. no change mate.... you'll be lucky to have maybe 3bhp at the top end on the rev limiter... all those mods do is iron things out that are caused by the emission restrictions.. everyone who does it seems to rant how good it is.. but if they put their bikes on a dyno before and after... then they'd be hugely disappointed, at some points in the graph it will actually be making LESS bhp, "less urgent at high speed"?.. but if you're happier with it, and can accept that there is a certain placebo effect to that stuff..then its no harm..!
Moonfleet41 totally Agee Del,,, as you know im a sponge when it comes to learning about biking because im so green,,, but defo feels better to me as i have no reference point,,,, its my first bike. Take care both.
If you have a free afternoon.. take a Street Triple for a ride mate... then you'll know what power feels like for the first time.... and you'll see how futile tuning a bonneville is.. .lol!
you're the men, thanks I learn a lot from you to keep nice my Bonny
Glad the videos can help you Carlos.... thanks so much for your kind feedback!
What's the build quality like on these new bonys ? Here a lot of bad stuff ie, gear ⚙ box problems and the brakes no good on t100?
I work on a lot of the new Triumph motocycles,and if i had to choose it would be a Bonneville.They are simple bikes with a lot of character.As for the oil debate,i dont think it really matters.The oils we have now are full of detergents so they will clean everything in the engine.Of course if an engine is parked outside and the oil is full of condensation its a totally different matter.I wouldnt start it for an oil change either
What was the air filter brand provided that included beater pleating?
can get out door unless your lee stuart :D good work Del and Penny, Change bike there few weeks ago , got a honda shadow 1100 ace. 1997, only 13k miles on it.
Excellent choice buddy, so now you can change your username to Ace_Brian... Cool!
Another great informative video and great info about them filters looking at one of them now for my MT-07 tracer good price too.
Thanks for recommendations, top! I drive an T120
hi delboy im 70 now and when I was training to be a mechanic not a fitter we had flush oils dint use them I you just tick over the engine we used paraffin which is a very thin oil and wont damage the new oil or the engine
Good to hear from you mate, I think the old ways have never gone away, they just seem to be replaced with fancy chemicals to make people wealthy! Drop of paraffin is a perfect solution...
Hello Dellboy greeting from India. good Job by both of u.
Greetings back by friend, great to have you aboard... Namaste.
Dear lord.... now I have to change my oil because of this sexy music haha
Brilliant, masterclass!
The K&N filters are all flow bench designed and work efficiently, the one you are using has not been tested at all.
best channel on TH-cam for bikers!
I live in Canada. Laid bike up in October. Bought it in October and rode it for one day, from home to storage. Its a brand new bike from the showroom has 19 klm on it. 2014 Bonneville T100SE. Do I still need to change fluids and oil? I know they been sitting for five months, but the bike has seen no rode travel.
No Sonny, that will be fine to just ride.. the Gas could do with changing though.. siphon out as much as you can from the tank, and fill with fresh hi octain gas, the stuff thats in there now will be nasty and acidic.. get rid of it..! but the oil will be ok..! take it back for service at 1000 miles though.!
Thank you. I thought I should ask after watching brake fluid and oil change videos
Aww my... now what to do, I've managed to catch up on all the episodes ... bly me ill start all over again, after all spring isn't here yet, and i still haven't got my "new" ride home
Here's a question Del....if you don't mind, and that is a lot of people have to check their oil at the side of the road or driveway/pavement or something, none of which are nice and level.
Now as you know when checking your oil especially alone all you can lean the bike even a tiny amount and it significantly increases or decreases the level in the window, so my question is what's the margin of error to avoid to much oil pressure or doing some kind of damage?
Ok buddy, I see you're worried, but one thing I can dispel for you is you use the word 'significiantly' with reference to how much it changes the level if you're not on level ground, that's actually not so... obviously if the bike is leaning way over, or it's way upright, then it will make a small difference, but it's not critical... your bike could be a pint down on oil and that's perfectly ok, so the level isn't critical on the stick, and also remember, if you're going to check your oil on the roadside in some sort of emergency situation, then why are you doing so? Take the time to find some level ground, a driveway, or garage, and check it when it's upright... if you checked it at the beginning of the week and rode it every day, it wouldn't significantly drop inside 5 days, unless you had a leak, so really buddy, don't over think it and don't worry... just check it, maybe, when you're next filling the bike up, gas stations are usually level and it's a perfect chance to do it.... and if you were to check your oil every time you filled up, or even every other time, you'd never need to check it elsewhere again.
All fine and good on the air filter recommendation but can’t find one here in the US.
Hey Del -- absolutely love your channel. I've probably watched every one of the Bonnie videos a dozen times. I have a question for you... I picked up a brand new (well, 2015, but new bike--only 3 miles on it when I picked it up) Bonneville in November because the price was right, and put 'er right into a friend's heated basement for the Buffalo winter; been running the bike every week or so for a while just to keep it from sitting too long. Should I still do a complete oil change before getting her out of on the road (when the snow melts..)?
Thank you for all you do!
Nice, where do you get the skid plate, or do you make it? Ps. I'm a big fan of you, I'm follow you since the videos of your iron 883. Regards mate.
Hi There. I made that bash plate myself, it was a series of videos about 3 years ago.. made from steel with brass mesh.
Quiet Chaos
if you go to the play lists there's one for scrambler with a bunch of vids making the bash plate after about a hundred (sorry Del dozen) making the exhaust (mk1 with the holes and gold )☺
+springy 2112 thanks!
interesting comment about the oil... I'm about to change mine in the bikes that have been kept indoors over winter, and I was going to fire up the engines... but, having thought about it now, I won't bother... thanks again Del....keep up the good work...
btw, in case you read these comments and totally off topic..., did you ever see anything come from the Harley Europe trip??? I haven't seen any video clips, comments, pictures or anything about the winners trip....
Hi mate.. yes, leave the oil set in the sump then just drop it.. i got a full 4 liters changedm and the oil on the glass now is golden clear..!
With that HD Disocer More thing... i got top five, won a fashion jacket and that was it... the winner, a chap called Louis Castilla from Spain was the winner.. he was a seasoned media professional, already had lots of radio work and magazine stuff.. blogs and TV spots.. so they chose who they wanted i guess.. but yes, the tour he went on was pretty much private, hardly any social media coverage, a few photos on the HD competition page itself.. and that was it.. never saw the outcome other then that..
I would certainly have made so much more of it than that... i had the interview with the head Office guys in Oxford.. they asked what i would do with the bike... i said id have taken the bike on a tour of the WW2 concentration camps, to say a prayer and reflect at each one, and flaunt the coolest symbol of freedom in the world, in the faces of the oppressors... also planned to visit all the HD dealers en route, and maybe drag the local HOG guys on the trip with me... but i guess they didn't see the depth of meaning in that.. ho hum.
On the other hand, we have entered the same competition this year.. been for the obligatory test ride, and the prize is a trip to the factory in Milwaukee, now that would be cool.. but im sure there will be millions of applicants for that one..! Thanks for your support buddy.. take care.. del.
Moonfleet41 missed operchancity for sure, really odd... oh well.... 👍🏻
If I drain it like you after all the oil came down after a couple of weeks of the bike standing, do I run the danger of destroying anything as there won‘t be oil in the upper parts of the engine (piston/cylinderhead/valves) when I crank it up? Like there‘s not enough oilpressure the second I engage the Ignition?
I logical question for sure, but if you have good quality oil in there, even if it needs changing, then some will still cling to the insides of the motor, even at the top end, certainly in just a couple of weeks, so don't over think it mate, the new oil will get up to the head in a few turns of the motor and it'll be fine..
Cheers mate, you truly are the GOAT, especially with a reply sooo quickly. I use Motul 300V 15W50 (on the last and also for this upcoming oilchange), so I guess it‘s rather premium.
I hope you‘ll get another Modern Classic for a new project next year, such a huge fan of your work. Bore a Royal Enfield Twin up to 865ccm or smth haha anyways, happy holidays and keep the content coming next year!
@@pleasediexo I will indeed sir, this project was to explore something different, but im already missing having a more hard core street bike on the bench, something i can make a bit more radical.. it's all good encouragement, so thank you for the nudge..
@@Moonfleet41 Yesterday I bought a 2021-2 Triumph Bonneville T120 Matt Black / Graphite gold line series. It appears that many pundits are correct. Not allowed to do any aftermarket mods like that anymore. As in air filter, exhaust systems etc etc etc. ECU will no longer recognise these differences. A person with a Masters degree in engineering explained things to me, but it is deep for me to understand.
For all you other people hang on to your Euro 4 bikes.
What have you heard Mr Delroy ? Salesman also went over this with me yesterday.
Merry Xmas UK people.
NZ
Hi, need to ask something not related to this vdo. I ride a water cooled T100. At speeds above 80 kmph the front end starts to wobble when both hands are off the handlebar. Have checked with Triumph workshop and everything seems to be in factory setting. Can you guess what is at fault?
Hi buddy, that sounds disconcerting, could it be tyre pressure?? Or possibly, un-even tyre wear??
If your front tyre has been run under-inflated for any length of time, then it wears in to a 'v-shape' and develops a point in the middle... and this will definitely cause the front to shake, specially when slowing down... it may be shouldered one side more than the other (usually the right side if you ride on the left) (Not sure if you're in England)... failing that, check your head stock bearings, make sure they're in perfect working order, and on a more distant possiblity... rear wheel alignment and chain tension... it's hard to say, without more information, but there's some things to check!
Hi. Thanks for the reply. One of my friends also face the same problem. He recently changed his tyre to a new one. Still it's there. The wobble disappears as the bike slows done. But it's there between 80-100 kmph. Will check, head stock bearings and rear wheel alignment, even though it's a new bike. Thanks again :)
btw, it is something similar to this
th-cam.com/video/z3OQTU-kE2s/w-d-xo.html
another great video on a very nice and we'll maintained motorcycle, Pen is one lucky lady, regards Stu 🖒🖒
About running the engine vs not running it before draining. I'm a noob mechanic, no doubt but I've tried both, and honestly, I've never gotten exactly every little drop of old oil out and the amount of oil I can put in is pretty much the same. So I'm guessing do whatever way you want and you'll get the same result ?
Edit: Oh you said that later in the video, I really should watch all of it before commenting :D
HAHA!! I wonder what part of this video you will get more grief over? Calling the Twin a " Street Cruiser" ("Did you just call my Retro Classic with its fake carbs and other bits a Cruiser?" How dare... HAHA!!). Calling people out on taking the airbox etc.. out for no reason other than wasting money or the "You want a fast bike then buy a fast bike instead"... Love it!!! I have a uni filter and I hate it, will give this one a try Thanks!
Newby question but I did my oil and filter change couple days ago didn't fill my filter up like you but it'll be alright and fill itself won't it ?
Yes mate, the oil will pump itself in there within the first 10secs, the only reason to pre-fill it is so the level just drop so much after the first start up...!
Hi. I have a 2016 Triumph Bonneville T100 I bought used with 535km on it. It needed an out of province inspection at that point so had the shop look over then. Do you think I require a 1000km service still ? Or would it be ok if I were just to change the oil myself at this point. Your advice would be much appreciated, Thanks!
Hi mate, i am assuming you are at 1000km now?? we do it at 600miles here, same thing... and yes, you really should do it... I don't exactly know what an out of province inspection is, but the word inspection infers that it was simply a look over, and the first service is more than that... it's important the oil is changed at the latest around 1200km, cos the initial running in oil needs to do it's work of letting the engine bed in, and then be removed for some decent quality oil and a filter... also, it's a great way to give the bike a thorough check over after it's first 1000... and as it's, obviously, still under warranty, you may as well get it done to cover yourself, shouldn't cost much, most Triumph dealers here do it for about half the price of a decent service... best of luck with it, all the best, Del
I booked it in! Thanks a lot Moonfleet41!
Thank you for the awesome video. I just bought a triumph scramble 2017 and the wrench service indicator comes up. Any idea on how to remove it? Thank you.
Do you mean the 'engine management light?'
My 2015 scrambler with 4000 miles makes a clutch noise when cold, do you think is a too dense oil problem? I´ve experimented a similar problem on a dirt bike, change oil to a thinner one and problem solved, do you think that´ll help?
What eaxct grade of oil are you running Manolo...?
I belive last oil change the dealer changed was a 15W 50
Yeah thats too thick buddy... your Triumph should be run with 10W40... get a good fully synthetic version and it'll make it run smooth and sweet...!
Thanks for both your answers! Most of my mods to my bike are gidded by your videos!
Do you know if they do them filters in pod form?? i am running pods on my zrx
great video as always Del, ive just changed my pads to sintered HH pads and changed the oil etc, on my triumph daytona 955i, followed all your instructions, easy peasy, i have a question about MOT's on motorcycles......if your bike is fitted with a twin seat or a passenger seat, does the foot pegs need to be fitted? i never carry anyone and have a exhaust hanger fitted, taken the pegs off? will it fail? its in next week......
Ok, good question, and it goes a bit like this,,,,, "The pillion MUST have a dedicated foot peg on which to rest their feet safely... so if a back seat is fitted, then YES you must have foot pegs... but if no seat is fitted, then no need for foot pegs..as its a single seat bike..(and those seat cover type hump things the sports bikes have isnt enough...the seat cant just be 'covered' it must have no seat there at all...) Hope that helps..!
Moonfleet41 yes it does, so basically, i would be better off putting the pegs back on for the MOT and then take them off afterwards.......thanks mate... (it'll only take twenty mins to refit them so to save any hassle ill do that...)
Just check your back door too mate, i think its a 'construction and use offence' too... which means the Vossa Tossas can stick you on for it on the roadside..! long shot, and not likely, but good to know if it was..!
Moonfleet41 thanks mate, good thought, ill just stick them back on, along with the correct size plate, lol, might as well get it right first time, then take em off again,....
Enjoyed that Del, thanks.
Another fantastic video - thanks guys! Although the filtration of the new filter is assumed to be better than the K&N, there's no mention of air-flow. Have to wonder if that extra filtration will suffocate the engine?
As long as the actual filtering material is not denser the extra pleats give it more surface area and should be better air flow.
The air flow itself is largely academic Barry.. the filter medium is much the same stuff, you can see the same amount of light through it.. but its the larger amount of filter medium available that makes a difference, the motor will pull the same volume of air over a given time...so as it gets drawn through a 'larger' filer, then the 'inhaled' particles have more space to spread out, and wont clog up as quick..so the filter retains it original air flow longer..! either way.. for the same money as the K&N, its a way better product by a country mile... hope K&N are watching, time to step up methinks..
Thank you for the explanation.
Another great video. Personally, I warm the bike up before draining, but then again, I don't let my oil get dirty. Frequent oil changes are the best maintenance that you can give any internal combustion engine.
Over the course of 3 months, almost half a pint more oil will be in the sump.....run it for just 60 seconds, and thats gone.. best you'll drain out is the usual service amount.. so if its ridden all the time, then yeah, always warm it up.. but what an opportunity to get it all out of its been laid up..!!
You did the right thing Del, but not completely for the right reason. This 'drain oil hot' question has been around since before I was born, before multi-grade oils. The mistake you made was saying at 4:35 "When oil gets hot, it gets thinner and more runny". That was the case for decades but not now. Mutli-grade oil Does Not do this. It actually gets thicker as it gets hot.
10W-30 or 10W-40 oil is 10W oil at ambient temps. As the oil temp increases, the carbon molecules link together by thermally driven chemical reaction. It is true the ambient temp weight of the oil will thicken modestly with usage but if the oil is changed at regular intervals that slight thickening is insignificant with regard to oil changes. There is not only no valid reason to drain oil hot, it is actually counter to the intent of having a more complete oil change.
Like you said, 'a bunch more oil will be staying in the engine if it was just ran' when you pull the HOT plug and the HOT oil fry's your hand. It's not just unnecessary, it is counter to the intent of complete oil change. Multi-weight oil gets thicker as it goes up in temp, that's how it works. Some old mechanics theories (and I have many of my own), die hard. Cheers.
Looking forward to seeing the new shock video.
I'm waiting for a set of Ohlins to be delivered should be here tomorrow by the latest.
Got Penny's shocks here today... they are easily as good as Ohlins... and a lot less money.! (well, a bit less lol)
Moonfleet41
I just liked the look of black springs and gold bottles.
Mine turned up today and I got itchy fingers a fitted them.
Still looking forward to the video though
Love your vids guys so educational! Many thanks
HI Del / Penny good advice as always
How would you go about cleaning an oil tank that has some sludge built up from sitting through a few seasons?
Hi Jessica... stick a couple of pints of diesel in it, slosh it all around by shaking the tank...and it'll be cleaner than a joke on children's hour..!
Great thank you! And what would you say about the rest of them system, if there's sludge in the tank there's bound to be sludge throughout yes?
Is this on a motorcycle Jessica,? you dont get "sludge" in the oil system, thats what the filter is for... is this some old vintage bike been laid up for 30 years..?
Moonfleet41 yeah, it was on a '95 sporty laid up in a garage for about 2 years through summer/winter. Came back from living overseas, drained and flushed new oil through a few times had some sludge still in the tank after but wasn't sure if there would be any risk through the rest of the system
No, Not at all Jess, its not that long two years... modern oil doesn't separate, it may be water even.. just fill with oil, do 100 miles, then change it again for some top line "Screaming Eagle Syn3 oil" and a new filter each time.. job done..!
TARDIS oil filter, are we off the tunnocks and onto the jammy dodgers then?
As always guys, great video and great explanations. Even though I've done A LOT of oil changes on bikes, cars, 4x4's etc I always find there's some little tit-bit that you add and makes me pause for thought.
However, I must just take issue with you on the usefulness or otherwise of modifying the inlet side of the motor. As you know I had a 2010 T100 EFI. I gutted the airbox (removed the snorkle and filter retain plate, baffle plate) installed a DNA foam filter, removed the AI and O² sensors and installed a map to take account of the changes.
What was the effect? Much smoother, more immediate acceleration,. Revs faster and higher, generally feels significantly more energetic. Better mpg too. I enjoyed the bike much more.
What was the cost? £200 in total.
Hi David... i stand by those points mate... put your bike on a Dyno, and it wont be making more then a couple extra BHP, and not across the range, just at the top end at best....also, once you remove the O2 sensors and install a fixed map, you may aswell fit carbs.. the ECU now cant make any changes for temperature or humidity because in taking out the Lambda sensors, you've blinded it to what the bike is doing... Those mods you've made do make the bike feel a little smother, but no extra power.. it just irons out the wrinkles that emission regs bring.. overall though, if you're happier with it, then thats what matters aye.
Hi mate, when I did the work on the T100 I did not install a 'fixed' map. You can remove the O² sensors and the AI whilst still retaining oil and air temp sensors plus MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensors. This allows the ECU to fuel the bike optimally irrespective of ambient temp or altitude based air pressure. So it leaves the ECU loads of work to do, it just cuts out the switching between tables, that the standard bike can suffer from.
Hi Del and Penny. Another brilliant and understandable demonstration of why one is better than the other. C-moto...Semoto is the thing? Keep it up and greetings from Colombia.
Hi Bernhard.. the filter is "Simota", they are so much better than the roughly made K&N filter... thanks for watching.. Del.
The oil thing is a point of discussion, that´s for sure. I suppose that, doing it your way, all the dirt and the metall chippings which are in the oil will sink to the bottom of the reservoir and don´t come out if you drain the oil cold.
By the way, Del, are you a drummer, because you wear a cap from Evans drum heads?
Ha ha, "Evans Waterless Coolants".. and im about as musical as a bin lid..!
I hear a lot about metal chippings and dirt... but they just dont exist in modern clean burn motors.. the black is from soot, but nowt else, there isn't even a magnet on the plug any more.! The other issue, is were there to be bits in the oil.. then what about the half pint you wont get out if you run it... that will be full of bits, and they'll stay there...?? equal points for both aye..! lol
Ok I take that. But in return I think by running the motor, you stir up all the sludge and than drain the most of it out of the motor. By not running the motor this sludge stays in the recesses auf the sump an will not come out. Question is which method is best to get rid of this residues?
Another productive day in the garage buddy, soon be ready for long rideouts for tea eh, we must be overdue a trek to West Bay. Hmm fish 'n' chips
Sorry buddy... all i read there was "Fish n Chips"...! made sense to me though..! yum
Yes in Canada we lay them up for months and months and months aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa! Winter please go away! I'm tired of just watching video, I want to get to work and then ride.
I'm dying to see a fighter update lol. Hope all has been well cheers m8
Few more videos tom come yet buddy.. life gets in the way of projects sometimes, got some new shocks to fit on the Triumph, and also on the Softail too.. also a few cool tools to give away this weekend.. then back to business...
Hi,
Off topic, whats the torque value on spark plugs Scrambler 900?🔩
Any new spark plug just needs half a turn from touching base, thats fine.!
I always felt like oil was draining better if I took the top plug off, before the bottom plug. Any truth to that?
Not really 'better', just maybe a bit faster as you let air in more freely... otherwise it only had the crank case breathers to git through as the oil drains out..! if the oil is red hot then its better if it doesnt gush out suddenly...lol
Great stuff Del.
Interesting chat about add on's. I reckon the engineers generally get it right.
Love the 'Bonnie' Any thoughts on the new liquid cooled Bonnie T120 1200cc?
As always cheers.
No Jack, no thoughts mate... not a bike id buy even with your money..! so glad we bought this Scrambler when we did.. and the 'engineers' may get it right.. but the accountants make them cut to the cheapest options for more profit.. The factory shocks on this were truly shockin, the discs and sprockets are all Chinese, the spokes on the factory wheels rusted in three months.. etc etc etc and and and.... dont get me started.. bikes are built for profit, not quality buddy..!
Ah yes the dreaded bean counters'. Always a battle between the engineers, profits & shareholders.
I here what your saying about Chinese parts. Personally I dread it when I find out an OEM part is 'made under license' in China.
Cheers
Del
Yeah, and just when you get used to knowing that all the consumable parts of your Bonneville are made in China.... you then discover the bike itself is made in Thailand...lol!
Aghhh, dam, youre right, im never using flushing agent again!!!!! thanks.
(P) Ooo opted for a bit of bling on the filter 😀