Nice test! It's not very common to use 100% beeswax for waterproofing because it can be very stiff. Most recipes use 10% beeswax and 90% paraffin wax. I personally prefer around 20% beeswax, 70% paraffin wax and 10% vaseline (this is really just a mix of mineral oil and paraffin wax but cheaper and easier to get in the UK than pure mineral oil). The mineral oil component really helps to soften the final mix once cooled. Also worth noting that the ratio may change depending on climate - in very cold climates the wax will be firmer so you may need to increase the percentage of oil.
It is often suggested first washing the cloth in hot water, allow to dry. This will cause the hot wet fabric to swell closing gaps in the weave. When it is dry it will have a tighter weave helping with water proofing of choice. Using wax may not be a good choice, one reason is when cold it will crack and sluff off exposing the cloth. For that reason they originally used whale/fish oil and linseed oil on the cloth, as in the name Oilcloth or Oilskin. Yes, one can use wax such as paraffin, however it should always be melted into the fabric, still when cool or cold waxed cotton is more stiff than Oilcloth and Oilskin, and less breathable.
Thank you. If you liked this, I can also recommend the follow-up video Experimenting with Oilskin, where I try out more mixtures. th-cam.com/video/AhoBblWk-H0/w-d-xo.html
Lanolin is a good natural choice for wool as, I'm guessing you know, it is a byproduct from wool fleeces and certainly helps sheep keep dry and a shearers hand soft as a baby's bum. I had a woolly hat that was lanolin treated and it stayed waterproof for years... till I lost it on a boozy day trip to Blackpool. Guessing here, but an occasional wipe over with lanolin and putting in the airing cupboard for a few days and the lanolin should just soak in and keep it good.
That is the content of this very video. Summary: If you add any wax, it becomes solid when cold. Alcohol can be used as thinner, so you put less wax/oil mixture into the fabric. But when combined with heat, alcohol is not necessary otherwise.
@@larpwright I think this person is suggesting mixing oil together with wax to give a more pliable final product. I've not tried it personally but I know a lot of people find it works well. Although I've also heard that over long periods linseed oil can cause the fibres in the fabric to break down.
Nice test! It's not very common to use 100% beeswax for waterproofing because it can be very stiff. Most recipes use 10% beeswax and 90% paraffin wax. I personally prefer around 20% beeswax, 70% paraffin wax and 10% vaseline (this is really just a mix of mineral oil and paraffin wax but cheaper and easier to get in the UK than pure mineral oil). The mineral oil component really helps to soften the final mix once cooled. Also worth noting that the ratio may change depending on climate - in very cold climates the wax will be firmer so you may need to increase the percentage of oil.
It is often suggested first washing the cloth in hot water, allow to dry. This will cause the hot wet fabric to swell closing gaps in the weave. When it is dry it will have a tighter weave helping with water proofing of choice. Using wax may not be a good choice, one reason is when cold it will crack and sluff off exposing the cloth. For that reason they originally used whale/fish oil and linseed oil on the cloth, as in the name Oilcloth or Oilskin. Yes, one can use wax such as paraffin, however it should always be melted into the fabric, still when cool or cold waxed cotton is more stiff than Oilcloth and Oilskin, and less breathable.
Your video answered so many of my questions. Thanks for making it!
Thank you.
If you liked this, I can also recommend the follow-up video Experimenting with Oilskin, where I try out more mixtures.
th-cam.com/video/AhoBblWk-H0/w-d-xo.html
I'll check it out, thanks.
Thanks for this!
very helpful thank you!
странно, когда-то ролики собирали так много просмотров
Any idea how the felted wool would hold up after being treated with lanolin?
No idea. I have never tried that.
Lanolin is a good natural choice for wool as, I'm guessing you know, it is a byproduct from wool fleeces and certainly helps sheep keep dry and a shearers hand soft as a baby's bum. I had a woolly hat that was lanolin treated and it stayed waterproof for years... till I lost it on a boozy day trip to Blackpool. Guessing here, but an occasional wipe over with lanolin and putting in the airing cupboard for a few days and the lanolin should just soak in and keep it good.
Would a mix of alcohol, oil and wax combined and heat dried be workable?
That is the content of this very video.
Summary: If you add any wax, it becomes solid when cold.
Alcohol can be used as thinner, so you put less wax/oil mixture into the fabric. But when combined with heat, alcohol is not necessary otherwise.
@@larpwright I think this person is suggesting mixing oil together with wax to give a more pliable final product. I've not tried it personally but I know a lot of people find it works well. Although I've also heard that over long periods linseed oil can cause the fibres in the fabric to break down.