Respect to you for leaving in the polarity incident. Watched this a second time. Great info about the heat zone and using that as a travel speed indicator. Always picking up something from your videos!
The heat affected zone tells a lot. It’s impossible to have a clean line with poor consistency. Just like the sound being made while welding tells a ton. If it’s consistent then the weld is consistent. If the tone constantly changes, or you can hear an aggressive arc, something isn’t right.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg I've tried to weld with ear buds in to drown out background noise. Hasn't worked as well as I'd hoped because I can't hear what the stick/wire are doing.
Hey Greg, I can't figure out how I missed this one. I'll be doing a repair on my press in the next few days using the 7018 rods so this video will definitely give me a head start on doing a better job on it. Thanks. 😊😊
Glad to hear that. Remember, everyone teaches themselves how to weld. You have it in you to be a solid welder. Just accept the fact you will be terrible at it for a while, practice, focus on being smooth/consistent, and you’ll get it 😀
Could you use a third tack in the middle (ish) to close a gap (pieces clamped together)? Also, does the strength of the weld change all that much with minor inconsistencies? Should I grind the whole piece down and do it again if these aberrations should crop up?
Great questions. I have a video coming out soon (within a few days) that deals with how much weaker majorly defective welds are. I will also have some videos dealing with how much weld defects affect strength. That will provide a ton of info. However for the time being here is some info: Tacking is generally best done on ends because the fusion is generally better. If you place a tack on the middle it’s in your best interest to grind it down a bit. What can happen is as you weld over a non ground down tack you can end up with poor fusion just before and after the tack. The same thing can happen with start/end tacks, too, so it’s not a bad idea to “feather” them a bit to get better fusion. If the material is 3/16th and thinner it’s probably not a huge deal. On thicker material you will lose some strength due to the poor fusion. Another trick would be to run high settings suitable for thicker material, and “blast tack” it. If you do it fast you can get a fairly flat, small tack that is easy to weld over. It also reduces the hump you get when welding over a bigger tack. Beyond that when it comes to fixing weld screw ups, grinding it out may be the only option if it’s bad enough. Sometimes it’s possible to do simple repairs to fix things (like welding over undercut) but it really depends on how bad the defect is.
@@makingmistakeswithgreginteresting stuff! I was instructed at one place working with MIG to tack small and hot a little way off the start of the seam, then weld over taking care to incorporate the tacks while maintaining bead dimensions. No grinding was allowed. This was about aesthetics, there was no consideration about strength, but the loads on those parts were pretty minimal.
Dear sir. In this video. U said e7018 fillet weld. More metal deposition in lower plate compare standing plate. I am also struggle this kind of fillet weld with e 7018. I am try many attempt to change rod angle. But i can't weld same fusion in both plate. Kindly teach me sir. How we weld to cover both plate same size of fusion. Or fillet leg size
Based on what you’re saying, you’re probably not running enough amperage. If the weld is more on the lower plate than the upper plate (unequal leg size) the general solution is to favor the top plate more. However if you don’t run enough amperage or you travel too fast, the arc will tend to favor the bottom plate due to gravity of the molten metal. So make sure you’re keeping a tight arc, and make sure to run enough amperage.
Hobs? (Hobart Rods - flux looked like a bubbly kind of semi-opaque beer-bottle glass.) I’ve yet to buy regular 7018. Home Dee-Pot/Lowes only has the -AC flavor, and not in sealed containers. I thought I’d need the Lincoln Excalibur to get good ones, and *those* are expensive!
Respect to you for leaving in the polarity incident.
Watched this a second time. Great info about the heat zone and using that as a travel speed indicator. Always picking up something from your videos!
The heat affected zone tells a lot. It’s impossible to have a clean line with poor consistency. Just like the sound being made while welding tells a ton. If it’s consistent then the weld is consistent. If the tone constantly changes, or you can hear an aggressive arc, something isn’t right.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg I've tried to weld with ear buds in to drown out background noise. Hasn't worked as well as I'd hoped because I can't hear what the stick/wire are doing.
Hi Greg, watching lot's of your episodes. So helpful for a beginner. Cheers.
Thank you for all your videos.
Very enjoyable and I’m learning a lot.
Trust me..😊😊
Your welcome 😀.
Teachable moment, love it😆
Hey Greg, I can't figure out how I missed this one. I'll be doing a repair on my press in the next few days using the 7018 rods so this video will definitely give me a head start on doing a better job on it. Thanks. 😊😊
Best of luck with the press, you got it 😀
Thx Greg, these videos are so helpful for me. You may make me a reasonable welder yet!
Glad to hear that. Remember, everyone teaches themselves how to weld. You have it in you to be a solid welder. Just accept the fact you will be terrible at it for a while, practice, focus on being smooth/consistent, and you’ll get it 😀
Great video. Good advice.
Could you use a third tack in the middle (ish) to close a gap (pieces clamped together)?
Also, does the strength of the weld change all that much with minor inconsistencies? Should I grind the whole piece down and do it again if these aberrations should crop up?
Great questions. I have a video coming out soon (within a few days) that deals with how much weaker majorly defective welds are. I will also have some videos dealing with how much weld defects affect strength. That will provide a ton of info. However for the time being here is some info:
Tacking is generally best done on ends because the fusion is generally better. If you place a tack on the middle it’s in your best interest to grind it down a bit. What can happen is as you weld over a non ground down tack you can end up with poor fusion just before and after the tack. The same thing can happen with start/end tacks, too, so it’s not a bad idea to “feather” them a bit to get better fusion. If the material is 3/16th and thinner it’s probably not a huge deal. On thicker material you will lose some strength due to the poor fusion. Another trick would be to run high settings suitable for thicker material, and “blast tack” it. If you do it fast you can get a fairly flat, small tack that is easy to weld over. It also reduces the hump you get when welding over a bigger tack.
Beyond that when it comes to fixing weld screw ups, grinding it out may be the only option if it’s bad enough. Sometimes it’s possible to do simple repairs to fix things (like welding over undercut) but it really depends on how bad the defect is.
@@makingmistakeswithgreginteresting stuff! I was instructed at one place working with MIG to tack small and hot a little way off the start of the seam, then weld over taking care to incorporate the tacks while maintaining bead dimensions. No grinding was allowed. This was about aesthetics, there was no consideration about strength, but the loads on those parts were pretty minimal.
Dear sir. In this video. U said e7018 fillet weld. More metal deposition in lower plate compare standing plate. I am also struggle this kind of fillet weld with e 7018. I am try many attempt to change rod angle. But i can't weld same fusion in both plate. Kindly teach me sir. How we weld to cover both plate same size of fusion. Or fillet leg size
Based on what you’re saying, you’re probably not running enough amperage. If the weld is more on the lower plate than the upper plate (unequal leg size) the general solution is to favor the top plate more. However if you don’t run enough amperage or you travel too fast, the arc will tend to favor the bottom plate due to gravity of the molten metal. So make sure you’re keeping a tight arc, and make sure to run enough amperage.
I will try sir. Thanks you❤
Hobs? (Hobart Rods - flux looked like a bubbly kind of semi-opaque beer-bottle glass.)
I’ve yet to buy regular 7018. Home Dee-Pot/Lowes only has the -AC flavor, and not in sealed containers. I thought I’d need the Lincoln Excalibur to get good ones, and *those* are expensive!
I got some Hobart 7018 rods at Tractor Supply that run on AC or DCEP
Greg Making Mistakes