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Why We Chose Aluminium & Shimano 105 For The Ultimate Crit Bike Build! | Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ส.ค. 2024
- We want to build a bike that strikes the perfect balance between performance & price. But this time we wanted to build a Crit bike, so with the help of our friends at Shimano we're fitting our bike with 105 groupset components! In part 1 Alex explains our bike choice and begins to bring it to life!
In association with @RideShimano 👉 gcn.eu/Shimano
Welcome 0:00
Why are we building a crit bike 0:24
Designing our new bike frame 1:36
The bike components 4:56
Building our new crit bike 5:30
Bringing our bike to life 8:42
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What would your ultimate crit bike look like? Let us know in the comments 👇
It would have Dura Ace
Pretty close, it’s a CAAD12 with Ultegra mechanical. And it never got anywhere close to the bike vault for some reason.
My BMC Teammachine ALR with mechanical Shimano 105. Repalced the stock wheels with an old set of Vision Metron 55 SL that I've had for a long time.
Rim brake
Cannondale CAAD12
Shimano 105 R7000
BBInfinite BB30A for Shimano Hollowtech II (steel bearings)
PRO PLT aluminium cockpit
Custom-configured 45 mm carbon wheelset (Nextie 45 mm rims + Sapim CX-Ray spokes + Sapim brass nipples + White Industries T11)
Disc brake
First-generation Specialized Allez Sprint Disc
Shimano Ultegra R8020
BBInfinite BB30 for Shimano Hollowtech II (steel bearings)
PRO Vibe aluminium cockpit
Custom-configured 4050 carbon wheelset (Nextie 40 mm front 50 mm rear rims + Sapim CX-Ray spokes + Sapim brass nipples + White Industries CLD)
A Eurobike ❤
Surprised Alex didn't fit a Dura-Ace chainset that was just hanging about! 😉
🫣
Love that this is a point of banter even WITHIN GCN. 😂
@@andrewmcalister3462 it's the time of year, Banta Claus is here 🎅
@JonCannings Very good Jon. Have yourself a good one!
Had to be said! Lol
I’ve still got the CAAD 10 with 105. Rim brakes obviously as well. Still a very fast bike
and definitely lighter
CAAD12 105 mechanical owner here. Always fun to see this genre of bike getting some attention. Cheers and Merry Christmas.
Absolutely stunning paint job. Top work from Rob.
Love the colour, too 🎉
Какие-то цветочки. Девчачья расцветка.
Glad you did this. For many of us, it was our go to race bike in the 90s - aluminum and 105. You didn't need to worry about it in a crash and if it did get bashed up, you could buy another frame for $200.
When alloy frames were crazy cheap!
I wish CAAD 10+ frames cost only $200.
With that said, as a person who's primary bike is a CAAD. It's still an amazing deal at it's current price. The only bike I think that matches the value is the BMC TeamMachine ALR.
Love that you are building an affordable fast race bike. Would be cool to see some testing of this bike vs a SuperSix evo sometime
Finally, a bike that us non pro rider who wants a little speed with an alloy frame and 105. Last fall I built up an Emonda ALR with 105 Di2, with nice carbon wheels and GP5000's, I'd say all the bike that I need and then some. BTW the hyd brakes on that 105 group are fantastic. It is a good solid bike safe on the hills and snappy in the city. I'm sure your alloy Cannondale will be every bit as nice. So thanks for showcasing a bike that the average person can afford.
Specifically bought a CAAD 13 as my crit bike for 2024 season of masters racing. "race what you can afford to replace"
Agree, that custom paint job is gorgeous. And am with you on crits. Did a little bit of that when i was younger and still prefer watching them over other types of bike races. I appreciate watching these build up videos…i learn a bunch from them.
I ride a CAAD10 105 and its all the bike I need, still very fast and makes my friends on their $5k rigs rethink their purchases..
Same here - and I got a SS evo hi-mod too, I think the CAAD 13 feels more alive.
great video Alex & GCN. The colourway is excellent. I hope part 2 goes into detail with fitting the brake hoses and gear cables. It's not often that I watch a video all the way through without ADHD getting in the way, but this video made the cut!
Beautiful paint job! Cant wait to see the final build then make vs. with high end bike.
Inspires me for a bike like this! I love the design on the frame and colour way! Definitely enjoying the progress so far 🥰!
REALLY REALLY loving the frame!!! Good choice Brian!
My winter project is something similar but with an Specialized Allez Sprint, 105 Di2 and not too deep carbon wheels. 🚴
WOW, that paintjob is beautifull,- I`d love to see how they made it!! (for diy-purpose) awesome
Wow, I was just thinking about getting one of these as a little Christmas present to myself, and then this video drops moments later.
Surely, I should look at this as a sign from the Cycling Gods. 😛
Merry Christmas Alex and the entire GCN team.
Nice paint job and cool watching it being built!
Great to see a video that''s more relatable to the every day cyclist. Nice work Aethelwulf!
That's a pretty dark (ages) comment.
That's a pretty dark (ages) comment.
I rode this same frame/component combo last week while visiting a friend in Cardiff. I rode better than my carbon bike, loved it!
man this build is so cool, actually had me on the cannondale website looking at the caad13 haha.
Loving this! Group set of the people, FTW!
Cannondale aluminum and crits are like peanut butter and jelly. I raced a lot of crits on a CAAD9!
Agreed. IMHO, a quality aluminum frame, mechanical 105 groupset, and decent mid-depth carbon wheels set up tubeless would make a very capable crit bike. Actually, a very capable bike anywhere on the road.
An Aluminium alloy framsets is no slouch,it can last a life time.
What?? But I thought I needed to buy a 15k bike, I am so confused
@@gregk-muth8566 You don't have to,you can save a lot of money with a well designed aluminium alloy frameset and use it for a high quality wheelset and good tires.💯🚴♀️✌🏻
yeah, i gotta have that dura ace Di2, carbon wheels laced with carbon spokes, with powermeter, ceramic bearings and titanium bolts on everything to race at my local crit!!!! !! !! Must not forget carbon bottle cages and shaved legs@@gregk-muth8566
That is pretty much my blueprint for as and when I get a half-decent road bike; alloy frame, 105 mechanical, hydro discs and maybe some 30-40mm carbon wheels if I want to push the boat out. I'm not fast enough to justify a big emphasis on aero :-)
Alloy frame, mechanical groupset, inner tubes.
Nice.
Always has been the kind of road bike I ride, potentially always will be (in a realistic sense).
Love it. My crit bike is very similar to this.
Love the paint job, but, saddle tilting up, valves not aligned, cranks not aligned, jaunty angle, messy backdrop, so it's just a 'nice' from me Alecs(Welsh)🤪😉 That's one helluva seat to bars drop though.😯
I am pleasantly surprised by this video.
My number one bike is still a custom steel rig that my wife commissioned for me in 2011, and just two weeks ago a friend who just had a fully custom Moots built was asking me what I would buy for myself if I was to purchase as new road bike today.
I told him that I would probably get a really lightweight aluminum frame with a robust fully carbon fork, and build it with mechanical 105 12-speed. Because I still enjoy the feel of a high performance machine, but I’m too old to win any more races, and in spite of what most people think, the performance differences between current generation 105 and DA is so minuscule that it’s not going to make any difference unless you’re on a world tour team. Just use really good wheels and tires with it.
Excellent. Would've picked CAAD12, though, due to aesthetics.
yeah.....turning out to be a great looking bike,
looking forward to the final build video.
I also started a build being as i had my pride & joy stolen last month, didn't even own it for a year....frellin scum bags, took nearly 4 years to save up for it, survived lung cancer so i treated myself & this is the longest time i haven't cycled in 40 years,
I have to agree the Shimano 105 is a nice & well engineered group set for the price,
happy Christmas guys🎉
Love it!!
Straight up brother. Thank you!. Going 105 over microshift sword for a rebuild. Been debating.
I love how you built the cassette, very smooth
You should have put a dura ace crankset in the thumbnail, just to tweak us.
Dale's got a sweet paint job.
Keepemcoming
Alloy bars would be my preference for a crit bike, arguably more robust in the case of a crash. I'd also go for tubeless too, as it would mean you could, hopefully, keep going if you punctured towards the end of the race where, traditionally, laps out for mechanicals are not permitted.
I love a bike build video
We love seeing how the different disciplines of cycling demand different setups and componentry! What other specialisms should we explore next? 👀
Are they? I find that many of the things we attribute to aluminium vs. carbon today sound a lot like what we said about steel vs. aluminium some years ago. Would be cool to visit a lab where they do actual crash testing.
@@chrisridesbicycles carbon snaps, it doesn't bend. By the way, I use carbon 😂
Race with cheap
@@JonCannings That‘s the sentence. 😂 Used to be „steel bends, aluminium breaks with a *ping*“
That's a sweet looking bike, Alex!!!!
This kind are your best videos.
Would have asked Cannondale for a caad 10 or 12
Best gcn bike build ever. Maybe because Alex is building a replica of my bike ( just different colors)
Nice colors!
My road bike is more than half aluminum and partly carbon fiber particularly its fork and has been on Shimano 105 groupset components.
That paint job is amazing! It's making me think my 14 year old Caad8-5 (with 105s and rim brakes) could use an upgrade.
Lovely build Alex you guys should do more of these build vids 😊 it would be great to list all the parts used.. I own a CAAD10 with campy awesome bike 😊 and steel and titanium prefer these to carbon,. Personally.. just my opinion.. 😊Pete 🚴🏻😃👍
Cracking looking bike!! I love these kinda series’s!!! Now I’m NOT Mechanicly minded by ANY stretch of my imagination BUT I would have thought smaller gears on the back for a Crit??
The build makes the most sense for most of us non-professional cyclist.
I am building a crit/road bike. 12sp 105 but not the drive train. Just levers hyd brakes and mechs. Miche 14/30 cassette... So straight through till 21 teeth. 36cm internal cable bars. Elite wheels. Hyyge frame internal cable frame Most of it from aliexpress and about $3000 NZ. Building up the wheels myself now(rear finished and front almost) as Elite didn't do a non interwoven spokes option and sent them as a kit as requested. the wheels met all my other requirements at a good price. Build appears to be going well so far. Fingers crossed it continues to
Love the livery, at first i thought they were red roses fading from white to black.
That paint job 🥰
That paint job is sick! 😷 really dope,🔥
#RobbArmstrong
God that looks georgous! ❤
gotta love the presence of the aussie NCC crit that he did 💪
I love the colour
That's a gorgeous paint job, i gotta say...
Looking good. Can we have a list of parts used in the building please?
Love the graphics on the bike! Maybe you could film with the lights on for next video. It would make it easier to see.
That paintscheme looks great.
Good choice to go for the white rather than black front
This one NEEDS white bar tape. Practical or not, it has to be done.
We're taking notes ✍
Too bad Lizard Skins stopped making their Duo bar tape. A white/red or white/black combo would look bonkers on this build.
its a beauty
We think so too! Stay tuned for part 2 to see the bike in all its glory 🤩
hhhhmmmm.,… I’m in I’ll buy an aluminium frame …. as second bike 🤩 thanks Alex !!
That's literally my bike! Different paint, but boy she can really move!
Perfect. Something to save up for in 2024. I have a 2018 Ultegra cable Roubaix and a 2007 Cannondale System6. Need to rationalize down to one fast bike. Want either a crit type bike for circuits of Shooters Hill, Westmount Road, Rochester Way, Welling Way in SE London or a longer distance machine for 100km, with some 100 mile, circuits down into Kent and back. Aluminium or titanium frame, 105, two pairs of wheels for different types of ride and potholes.
Since you already have an endurance bike, a crit bike may be your next build.
The aluminum or alumimium CAAD 13 is the perfect choice for a reasonably priced crit bike that doesn't sacrifice any performance.
More details, please. Handle bar material, size, etc.. wheels, stem....???
Building a crit bike on a budget using parts given to you by sponsors, custom painted frameset! What part of all this is “budget” for the average person.
i daily a alu cinelli track bike, best bike iv owned
How about steel frame set, crit bike?
Why are there no electric air compressors in the Park Tool garage? Am I lazy for using one?
RIP my Bowman Palace:r the perfect crit bike. Standert would be my go to now for a crit bike if I could.
For a Crit bike, I definitely would go for an aluminium bar, tubeless and: 1x12 drivetrain. Make no sense to carry they weight of the small chainring an front derailleur
damn that looks nice !! which stem and dropbars are those?
Both are made by PRO.
Handlebars: Vibe Aero or Aero SL
Stem: Vibe Carbon
I still kinda want to see an Alibaba build with all Chinese parts to it. Alex can even do electronic shifting for cheap, ~ $600-$700.
What’s the recommended psi for those tubes thank you.
That all depends on the combination of rim width, tire width, body weight and parcours. Silca has a good online recommendation site for psi based on those.
Amazing paint work, you should probably sand it down to save weight.....
Race it in Radelaide this year!
How much does the caad13 frame weight?
ASK GCN: do you believe that waxed chains will be used at the major races?
they are already being used for years.
This is just like mine CAAD 13 and full groupset Shimano 105 .... but, what is the wheelset in the bike ? I used mavic alloy
Shimano C46 WH-RS710
where do you even ride crits in the UK ?
Don't think you mentioned it, but I rewatched to see whether you went for tubeless - 8:08 - were those latex tubes you were fitting? Wasn't it a nightmare ???
Those are TPU inner tubes, short for thermopolyurethane.
as said above, those are TPU, and what would exactly be the nightmare with latex innertubes?
Could've even gone 11 speed and saved bit more money. Good build.
would have went with an allez sprint frame
First or second-generation?
It looks super cool!
I dunno, the chain links as flames could look cool if you leaned into the hotrod car vibe.
The red splatter kinda looks like you ran over something on the road...
Alex done with tubeless 😱
GCN is not defunded enough when You see another rocket priced Bike marketed as a "people's Bike".
I'd rather choose a 2nd hand Ultegra 11 speed mechanical than a brand new 12 speed 105 mechanical. But this video is an ad from Shimano, oh well
A paint job like that has to add about $1K to the total. At least here in the US it would knowing the painters I know.
which size ist this bike?
After GCN Justified a 15,000 bike, they made an episode like this, to fool you into thinking they are neutral
The question will be whether they permanently rethink their content. We ˋ ll see.
It's a shame that Shimano doesn't make an 11-25 12 speed cassette for flat races where you would never even think about using the little ring. Since I would be stuck with disc brakes, I would make sure that my race and pit wheels had the exact same spacing on the discs. The race wheels would be Tubs of course, and the pit wheels clinchers or tubeless.
I honestly don’t get the need for thight cassettes with 11-12 speed. Your 11-17 cogs will be exactly the same on 11-25 or 11-30, and the jump in cogs between 17 and 30 in jumps of 2 or 3 is equivalent to jumps between eg the difference between 52-14 and 52-15 is the same as 36-21 and 36-25, so why would you want 36-23 in between that? and the 30 cog allows you to climb anything but the mountains. Why would you not go 11-30…
@@l.d.t.6327 Riding around with an 11-30, makes you look like an 87 year old Grandmother.
@@billkallas1762 stop making a fool of yourself. All pros ride 11-30 cassettes. You could as well say to pogacar he looks like a 87-year old, but keyboardwarriors are only though in front of their computer.
@@l.d.t.6327 They ride 11-30's because that is what they are given, and because they ride in the mountains often. Do you really think that Professionals would need an 11-30 if they did all of their racing on the flats, or in areas with rolling hills??
Do you live in the mountains, or in areas where there are climbs that last a mile?
Do you need a 30 in back, where you live?
How many years have you spent racing?
@@billkallas1762 you don't get it I fear. 53x11 will get you 10 meters in one turn of the pedals. You shift up one cog and 53x12 gets you 9.25 meters or 0.75 meters less. If you like a thight cassette, you'd think you need e.g. a 19 and 21 and 23 and 25, but guess what: the difference between a 53x23 and 53x25 is 0.38 meters. So eureka: you don't need those small steps up in cogs in the far end of your cassette: you'll do perfectly with 3 teeth differences, and that's why a 11-30 makes so much more sense than 11-25: An 11-25 has 11-12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25. 11-30 has 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-27-30. So if you go 11-30, you only muss out on a 16 but you'll get 27 and 30. I've seen many pro riders crawl up the 15% short steep hills on their 39-27 or even 39-30, especially those in the early break or after doing a huge effort leading to the hill. You make it sound you know something about racing but you forget that races are more than the top 10 of the races sprinting up the hill, and there are more places than your flat surroundings. Plenty of racers, especially in stage races, have to go up steep hills as well and especially with hilltop finishes the heavy guys / helpers cherisch small gears to cross the finish 10 minutes back and save the legs for the day after.
Which wheels?
Nice paintwork, hide the hideous welds
105 offers better value for money than Ultegra and Dura-Ace. And we all know that 105 cranks never have delaminating problems, unless Ultegra and Dura-Ace 😅
That doesn't seem to be a problem any more with the current-generation Ultegra and Dura-Ace. Well, there's always something like Rotor ALDHU24 to use as an alternative.
So, GCN watches the Nero show. Cool.
The caad10 or the caad12 rimbrake would have been a better choice for a budget critbike.
Rimbrakes are not only lighter they are faster AND cheaper (as people sell them for peanuts right now). They are also more convenient to travel around and having them raceready in a minute.
The caad 13 disc feels sluggish compared to the 10 or 12.
Also the Specialized Allez sprint rimbrake is a great option.
Second hand you will buy 2 (better) bikes for the price of this "budget" bike.
The first-generation Allez Sprint and CAAD12 are my favorite mass-production aluminium bikes. Realistically, I don't need anything more than these two models.
One looks a little fierce in its own right, the other bears the distinct classic Cannondale aesthetics.
What makes a rim brake “faster”? As far as I can tell, nothing.
See you points but nah. Keep up fpr future video
They have a sponsorship with Shimano so the new 105 mechanical makes more sense for them.
How are your Rimbrakes when the crit race is in the wet?
As for lightweight there aren't many major climbs in crit races.
Can you please tell me what handlebar are you using?
BTW the frame looks awesome 👍
PRO Vibe Aero or Aero SL.
@@yonglingng5640Are you 100% sure. I ask because I also use mechanical shifting and hydraulic brakes and I need all this cables to fit inside the handlebar without problems.
@@henrikerdland578 Yes I am, I can identify components without much trouble.
I've installed this handlebar before and yes, getting the shift housings and brake hoses routed isn't that easy due to the size of the holes that are barely large enough to fit those two. I remember what I did was I routed the brake hoses first, then I routed the shift housing with a spare shift cable as a guide after I was done bleeding the brakes.
@@yonglingng5640 Thanks, I will try 👍
@@henrikerdland578 You're welcome. One more tip, when you seat the shift housing into the STI levers, do it with the levers unbolted from their collar clamps. Once it's fully seated, only then do you push the STI levers back onto their collar clamps and tighten them back down. Do the same thing with the hydraulic hoses.