Pretty nice build, indeed, however, there are plenty of similar spec bikes on the market at almost half the price - Decathlon actually has a carbon 105 road bike for 2500 quid. There's something special about building your bike yourself, but most of the time it's quite impractical in terms of price/value.
Yeah building up a frame yourself is not the most cost effective way of getting a bike like this. Bike manufacturers will generally get groupsets and components at knockdown prices so can pass those savings on to consumers
Nice build.........i have to agree 105 is a nice group-set for the price, especially if you can get your hands on last seasons stock, also i would include 70% of 105 on a build, other 30% would be ultegra break/gear leavers accompanied with ultegra front mech & ultegra hubs & possibly ultegra crank arms with either 105 chain rings or personal choice due to ride requirements, saying that 105 hubs would definitely be considered, I would spray my own frame to keep costs low, possibly powdercoat a base colour & add another colour later on to jazz it up. Hope your test ride / race delivers your expectations.
Very nice bike, specially the painting is beautiful. I have renewed my Cannondale CAAD3 from the 90s with a carbon fork, a carbon wheelset and some parts from Ritchey. Equipped with a 10-speed Dura Ace 7800, it now weighs an incredible 7.8 kg. And the paintwork is unbeatable. Emerald flip-flop painting. And I'm still satisfied.
Smart approach. I've done a similar thing with my gravel bike for the same reason, durability, performance and value. There's a sweet spot pricewise beyond which it makes no sense to pass unless of course you have money to burn. Your approach is obviously not the most cost effective approach but for a new diy build, its a good explainer.
There is a certain extend to diminishing returns on higher end bikes 👀 What do you think is the best price for a bike whilst still getting great value and performance?
@@gcntech it depends. If you are racing for a podium on a grand tour then its price no object and your not paying anyway. For the rest of us, it could be as little or much as you want to get the job done whatever the job is. If its purely a recreational application, an alloy frame, base groupset and a decent set of wheels and tires is a good bet for almost anyone for most applications. But what are "decent tires"? Well that depends and is a whole discussion right there. I like the Pirelli Cinturato velo, they run at about aud$220 a pair now and I have them on 4 bikes. That's the cost of a entry level bike right there, just in tires. Expensive up front, last forever, never get flats, ride and perform well. Pretty good value despite the initial investment. Side conversation, my wife had an opportunity to ride a top end lightweight performance recumbent which she enjoyed very much (Scorpion FS 26 with everything). I offered to buy her one, she said what she already had was good enough. Maybe that's the answer right there - whatever gets the job done rather than hitting a specific price point.
Most of the people will complain that you can but a caad12 or second hand... but if i had the budget i would definitely build a bike like that. Beautiful machine❤
A CAAD12 (rim only) and first-generation Allez Sprint (rim and disc) would be enough for me. Or, I could fancy a T°Red Manaia (Silverbone Stradale or Speed Criterium).
In 99% of crits I entered there have been crashes. I personally think Aluminum trumps all for Crits just for the sake of durability as mentioned in this video. I have both a CaAD13 and a SuperSix Evo Hi-Mod Ex Team bike and the speed is negligible with a quality set of wheels on it.
Nice build! I also have a custom build CAAD13 (rim-brake) but with all aluminum parts. Agreed, it’s very nice to pick all the parts yourself. I don’t think the CAAD13 deserves all the hate it gets - as a former CAAD9 owner, I agree the older bike is sharper and feels more racy, but the 13 is plenty sharp in it’s own right, and takes comfort to a new level. Very interested to see how it does in a crit.
I really love the build, maybe because I own a very similar set up. Mine a size 56 rim brakes with 2023 lun hyper r45 wheels, weighing 7.4 kg, it's my favorite and most comfortable build. I also own a defy and Domane SLR and both those endurance bikes are not as comfy or have as nice a ride as my CAAD13, just love it...
There seems to be a surplus of bike parts floating around so you can definitely scrounge much better deals. For example, the Di2 105 group can be found for about 1100$
Finally!!! Great Vid. I've always wanted to do a CAAD 13 home build. Even better given it's a mechanical groupset. Nice project Alex. Your video from yesterday on steel framesets is a great segway for me to propose a bike build for an endurance steel bike build. Maybe a Fairlight? Something for long comfortable rides, not speed.
It's a beauty Alex! Great build! The colour scheme isn't my style but that's a personal thing! Other than that you've built my next road bike although I'm thinking Hunt wheels but I'm not sure about that yet. Great job. 👍
On'ya Alex, when you mentioned you'd be travelling and racing, was hoping you would be heading to Oz. Enjoy the trip, look forward to part 3 and a Top 10 finish.
I have something very similar to this for (masters) road races, only I started with a stock 105 build and just swapped out wheels and bars. I added a power meter as well. Gets you 99% of what a bike costing 3 or 4 times as much would... I've seen many races won on less expensive bikes than this mind you!
Met a pro cyclist who rides a Cannondale team bike only last week. If you’re patient and purchase your components when on offer, you’ll save thousands. I’ve done four high end builds and saved up to 3K, as an example wheels alone purchased for £400 and should of been £1000, frame £1500 should've been £3200 Also the pro rider told me that Cannondale as a company are struggling massively with sales.
They have quite an old lineup over all. The new Supersix Evo is a good step but many races were still won on the SystemSix. Also the gravel lineup needs a refresh.
@@gcntech I purchased a Colnago C64 (disc brakes) this summer second hand and I traveled to London for it. The seller had eight high end bikes and with respect was a very successful business man. It originally was an 11K build, all receipts, service history and a few other components thrown in. I paid 3K for it, I have since sold it to fund my next build for this summer. I appreciate that I was very fortunate, however the top end bikes are out there you just have to look and if you can purchase to break up, you can soon reduce the cost of your next project.
If by down under, you mean racing in Australia, Alex should make a guest appearance on the Nero Show while he's there. Assuming you'll be in the same region as them. That crossover would be amazing! @ChrisMillerCycling
Recently waited for the sales to get a bike to race on, £1500 for a 11 speed 105 disk Super Six and then 2nd hand Roval C38 wheels. Way under £3500, but I get the point, 105 is plenty good enough.
There's a higher chance of that happening as there are more parts in the system. On top of that, the bearings aren't right next to the crankarms, so they'll be subject to more leverage-induced stress. Back when I was still selling Specialized bikes, most customers who were looking to opt for a frame-up build with an S-Works Tarmac SL6 Disc, third-generation S-Works Venge and first-generation Allez Sprint (rim and disc) would pick 30-to-24 mm adapters for the 6806 bearings that come with these framesets since the running cost is the lowest, especially when the S-Works models use CeramicSpeed bearings just because they want to use them. I however, told them an alternative, which is to use a BB30 BB for Shimano Hollowtech II cranksets instead. The running costs may be higher (but can actually be offset by selling the CeramicSpeed 6806 bearings), but the BB area will end up with less parts which in turn lead to lower chances of creaking. I remember nobody took my advice to heart.
Curious why not full mechanical including the brakes? Is there a weight and cost savings between mechanical and hydraulic disk brakes? Would it be better to travel with a mechanical disk setup?
Sometimes I still wonder why on earth I gave in to a carbon frame. Because with the money I would have had left over if I had bought an aluminum frame I could have bought so many other nice things. And for me as a recreational cyclist it would have made no difference
Answer is easy: you weren’t exercising smart buying and did the same thing people do when walking in to buy a car. Get sold like being led to slaughter
It's what I've done time and time again with several aluminum frames, I've had and still have a CAAD13 and I was riding a CAAD9 and blasting my mates on SL7 on segments and in climbs. Riding a CAAD10 now. I'd rather spend the money on components and or the ability to build many bikes over a few years as I like building them and comparing them etc. I like the way aluminum transfers the power and gives me some road sensation. I've had a Giant TCR and it felt dead and numb to ride.
I always build my own bikes up from scratch and they.always come in better value than off the shelf with some wise purchasing choices. Building up your own bike doesn't mean more expensive - especially once you are in higher cost brackets (above 2.5k ish)
Ofcourse it's about price. They compliment themselves going 105 as it's the groupset of the people, and going alloy as it's cheap to replace when crashing. Next they end up with a 3.5K bike while you can have better performance off the shelf for 500-1000 less.
You know that the PRO Vibe bars/stem+PRO Stealth saddle in Carbon have a combined RRP of £860 GBP! I know Shimano sent over freebies for a product placement slot, but seems somewhat over the top when you are talking about a lower budget alloy bike build! The alloy versions of those parts retail for £319, so probably more realistic for the purposes of crit racing. #justsaying
8,3 kg for an aluminium bike with disc brake. Not bad. With pedals it would be about 8,6. 8,7. Mine Cannondale Super Six Evo 2012 with rimbrakes, flatbar, Crank bros. pedals, carbonwheels 50 mm, bottle cages weighs 6,8 kg. Size 56 cm
I love the idea of building up a bike but £3,500 is a lot of money. I have recently bought a Planet X Pro Carbon with full Ultegra groupset and 55mm deep carbon wheels for £2,000. It's a dream and potentially half the price of this with it's custom paint job!
If you crash or flat in a Criterium, will your "pit wheels" work with your disc brake set up, without dragging or without squealing? Can those wheels be rebuilt cheaply when you crash? (and you will)
i bought a tcr with rival axs, carbon wheels, power meter, brand new from store for 3300, this doesn’t sound like a steal. not forgetting to mention the frame is carbon and more aero than this one 😂
I have a CAAD13 for my winter bike. Great bit of kit! What adjustment/piece of kit did you get to make the Shimano crank compatible with the Cannondale BB? I haven't attempted to change myself. Just something I'm aware of after I purchased it.
Just buy a new BB30A BB made for Shimano Hollowtech II, don't bother with adaptors just because they're the cheaper option. I prioritise bearing stance over pricing and shortcuts. If your CAAD13 uses disc brakes or an electronic groupset, you can't run BBInfinite as the rear hydraulic hose and wires will get in the way.
Back in 2019 you could but a light weight alloy 105 bike for around a grand, that’s an affordable budget bike. For what this costs you could get a Vitus ZX1 with carbon wheel and all on it for that 😂
Do I ‘need’ a crit bike? (anymore than I need a big travel DH/ XC/ Gravel touring/ cyclocross/ bicycle with 2 wheels, gears and a comfortable if not ‘aero’ riding position?)
Again, judging from other comments below, Alex gets pilloried and must have developed a thick skin for all the self inflicted stick he unleashes on himself in this video! Clearly circa gbp £4k for a budget build makes the word "budget" kind of pale into insignificance! I was fortunate to be able to order and buy a new Giant all carbon tcr advanced pro with all Ultegra upgrades for gbp £3,100.00, earlier in the year. So many other commentators have alluded that they've bought similar off the peg for less too. Admittedly, its nice to be able to build up your own custom bike having done it on a shoestring budget in my youth, then standing back and admire the handywork. But to sum it up, imo this is not a budget build by any stretch even doing all the assembly work personally!😂😂😂
why on earth did you chose a carbon handlebar for a crit bike? the pro vibe aero aluminium would be the cheaper and more reliable option for this i guess
It is. Aluminium handlebars are more impact-resistant than carbon handlebars, that's why my cockpit is strictly aluminium. I don't want to be worrying whether my handlebars are cracked after a fall or crash.
@@yonglingng5640 correct. But how many stem choices do you require? The giant sl stem is stiff and light. The carbon more so. There is also zipp pro and ritchey. Most modern bikes with integrated bars give zero options
@@gregkane8635 Some riders may have a preferred stem brand & model and not all of them have a 1 1/4-inch version, especially if you're after finer details like stem rise and stack height (the height of steerer tube coverage by the stem). As a former shop mechanic, I prefer products with as much product compatibility as possible, so many 2020s framesets out there don't make my cut and that includes the Pinarello Dogma F so many people drool over.
@@l.d.t.6327 Yes, that's my favourite Giant. In fact, I almost bought a rim brake version of that bike in late 2020, but it may not be for the reason you think.
Huge money for an entry level bike. Big brands focus on lean, faster and cheaper manufacturing justifying the high price tag with global inflation to ensure growth and keep shareholders 🤑.
You could have had an off-the-shelf Giant TCR pro advanced with 105 mechanical and Giant Carbon wheels for 2600 euro/pound/dollars. That's a full 1000 less than your alu bike with the same groupset and comparable wheels. For that savings, you could have bought a CAAD frame as a reserve for whenever you crash the TCR...
@@Turbo329 so you would rather spend 1000 pounds more, without even knowing you will crash the thing in the coming 2-3 years after which you buy another bike? You realize you can damage that CAAD as well in a crash, and you won't have, compared to buying the TCR, any money to replace that frame.
@@l.d.t.6327 You make a great point and I respect what you're saying. In the few years that I raced I have never seen an aluminum frame get mangled beyond a minor repair. Not even chain stays. Carbon is a different story. And if I raced 20 times in a season, there were crashes in 19 of them. No exaggeration. I love my carbon bikes, and my preference would be to race them. However, my brain says that being on my CAAD13 is the smarter option. The other side of it is, you don't need to spend $3,500 to get into a CAAD13 like the one in this video. You can spend a lot less and have an amazing Crit racer. Wheelsets are cheap now. You could probably do it for $2,000-$2,500 USD for a new-ish bike complete with a badass wheel set.
Did Alex nail this bike? What parts did he miss on his dream build? 👀
Love the paint job. It's one of the nicest I've seen in a while.
Pretty nice build, indeed, however, there are plenty of similar spec bikes on the market at almost half the price - Decathlon actually has a carbon 105 road bike for 2500 quid.
There's something special about building your bike yourself, but most of the time it's quite impractical in terms of price/value.
Canyon's Aluminum Endurace 105 12 speed is around 1600 euros, pretty aggressive if you cut down the steering tube little bit.
This is a pretty good build regardless
Right, it's a nice build but a massive waste of money. Just buy a caad13 second hand, new bars and wheels and you'll get the same bike for far less.
Nice build. I did the same using a Trek Emonda ALR 5 frame. It came out weighing just slightly more than your bike at 8.34 kilos.
Sounds like a sweet rig 👌Nothing wrong with Aluminium! It's amazing how light you can get it
beautiful build! Can't wait to see you race it!! Great to see GCN covering TDU :)
I really like the budget builds you do. I did a Cervelo P3 Tri bike last year. Have $1800 dollars all in, a lot of used parts.
It’s a blast to ride.
Budget builds are great 🔥 Something special about building your own bike!
3500 pounds, you can get a supersix for that money😂. Or a stock caad with 105 and a lot of money for upgrades.
Easily get that down to 2K if u just buy a secodhand build and add some upgrades
Or you can get Polygon Strattos s8d with Ultegra for half of that
Yeah building up a frame yourself is not the most cost effective way of getting a bike like this. Bike manufacturers will generally get groupsets and components at knockdown prices so can pass those savings on to consumers
£1700 a lot of bike .....@@yukiko_5051
@@a1whiteTrue, but the more expensive the bike, the more cost-effective a self-build can be.
Loving the paint job.
It's dreamy right! 🎨
That paint job is something else! Gorgeous!
Bit of the pricy end for finishing kit like bar, stem and saddle if you’re planning on laying it down in a crit.
She is beautiful! Loved the build, specially the paint job. 🙌🏾❤️✌🏾
That paint job is seriously stunning! I’d love to see more flamboyant decals from bike brands.
Do you think brands play it too safe?
@@gcntech Definitely!!
Nice build.........i have to agree 105 is a nice group-set for the price, especially if you can get your hands on last seasons stock, also i would include 70% of 105 on a build, other 30% would be ultegra break/gear leavers accompanied with ultegra front mech & ultegra hubs & possibly ultegra crank arms with either 105 chain rings or personal choice due to ride requirements, saying that 105 hubs would definitely be considered, I would spray my own frame to keep costs low, possibly powdercoat a base colour & add another colour later on to jazz it up.
Hope your test ride / race delivers your expectations.
Very nice bike, specially the painting is beautiful.
I have renewed my Cannondale CAAD3 from the 90s with a carbon fork, a carbon wheelset and some parts from Ritchey. Equipped with a 10-speed Dura Ace 7800, it now weighs an incredible 7.8 kg. And the paintwork is unbeatable. Emerald flip-flop painting. And I'm still satisfied.
Smart approach. I've done a similar thing with my gravel bike for the same reason, durability, performance and value. There's a sweet spot pricewise beyond which it makes no sense to pass unless of course you have money to burn. Your approach is obviously not the most cost effective approach but for a new diy build, its a good explainer.
There is a certain extend to diminishing returns on higher end bikes 👀 What do you think is the best price for a bike whilst still getting great value and performance?
@@gcntech it depends. If you are racing for a podium on a grand tour then its price no object and your not paying anyway. For the rest of us, it could be as little or much as you want to get the job done whatever the job is.
If its purely a recreational application, an alloy frame, base groupset and a decent set of wheels and tires is a good bet for almost anyone for most applications.
But what are "decent tires"? Well that depends and is a whole discussion right there. I like the Pirelli Cinturato velo, they run at about aud$220 a pair now and I have them on 4 bikes. That's the cost of a entry level bike right there, just in tires. Expensive up front, last forever, never get flats, ride and perform well. Pretty good value despite the initial investment.
Side conversation, my wife had an opportunity to ride a top end lightweight performance recumbent which she enjoyed very much (Scorpion FS 26 with everything). I offered to buy her one, she said what she already had was good enough.
Maybe that's the answer right there - whatever gets the job done rather than hitting a specific price point.
Such a great looking bike. I love the paint.
Beautiful bike Alex well done 👏🏻👏🏻😍 knew you’d be going to Oz with it 😊
Peace ,Love and Happiness! New Year Greetings, GCN
Gotta love my fully customized caad 12 disc :)
Very nice. just completed my own CAAD 9 build with 105
My CAAD 9 was built in USA. 2008, rim brakes. Yours?
That paint job is delicious 🤘
Most of the people will complain that you can but a caad12 or second hand... but if i had the budget i would definitely build a bike like that.
Beautiful machine❤
That colour choice really pops, and the drivetrain choice is a tried and tested build.👍
Nothing out of place 👌
Something like this would be perfect for 90% of club riders out there.
A CAAD12 (rim only) and first-generation Allez Sprint (rim and disc) would be enough for me.
Or, I could fancy a T°Red Manaia (Silverbone Stradale or Speed Criterium).
In 99% of crits I entered there have been crashes. I personally think Aluminum trumps all for Crits just for the sake of durability as mentioned in this video. I have both a CaAD13 and a SuperSix Evo Hi-Mod Ex Team bike and the speed is negligible with a quality set of wheels on it.
You should bring the bike to lancaster, our university cycle club is running a crit series in march and it should be the first of the season
Nice build! I also have a custom build CAAD13 (rim-brake) but with all aluminum parts. Agreed, it’s very nice to pick all the parts yourself. I don’t think the CAAD13 deserves all the hate it gets - as a former CAAD9 owner, I agree the older bike is sharper and feels more racy, but the 13 is plenty sharp in it’s own right, and takes comfort to a new level. Very interested to see how it does in a crit.
Compared to the rest of today's Cannondale lineup, the CAAD13 is pretty much the best choice.
I really love the build, maybe because I own a very similar set up. Mine a size 56 rim brakes with 2023 lun hyper r45 wheels, weighing 7.4 kg, it's my favorite and most comfortable build. I also own a defy and Domane SLR and both those endurance bikes are not as comfy or have as nice a ride as my CAAD13, just love it...
When you find the bike that fits you it's such a good feeling 🙌 How long have you had your CAAD?
@@gcntech I've had it since January 2020 and won't let it go anytime soon.
Maybe an 11-25 instead. Even if the course has a small hill you'll never go past your 22.
Love the paint job! Nice job, Allen.
Sweet build!
Awesome build and great looking bike Axel!!!!
I'm not seeing any gas cookers so I'm calling out the "we're literally cooking on gas"! Great job & nice bike!
There seems to be a surplus of bike parts floating around so you can definitely scrounge much better deals. For example, the Di2 105 group can be found for about 1100$
Finally!!! Great Vid. I've always wanted to do a CAAD 13 home build. Even better given it's a mechanical groupset. Nice project Alex. Your video from yesterday on steel framesets is a great segway for me to propose a bike build for an endurance steel bike build. Maybe a Fairlight? Something for long comfortable rides, not speed.
Oooo great shout! The ultimate endurance build maybe? Steel is a great way to go 🙌
Nice build. Looking forward to the racing!
So are we! How do you think Alex will get on?
Very nice, very savvy build!
Super cool build! That paint job is so good 👌Looks even better in person!
Very interesting seeing the bike come together. Still costs a fair chunk of dosh though. But a great looking bike for sure.
The cost seems a tad high. The Trek website shows an Emonda ALR5 with Shimano mechanical 105 (11-speed cassette) at $2299.99.
Nice build. I really like the outcome Alex! I just saw this frame for €1900 with 105 already on it on sale. Very tempted now.
Cough cough do it... cough cough... Who said that? 👀
I'm head nodding so hard to the groove @ 3:10
Nice bike
It's a beauty Alex! Great build! The colour scheme isn't my style but that's a personal thing! Other than that you've built my next road bike although I'm thinking Hunt wheels but I'm not sure about that yet. Great job. 👍
On'ya Alex, when you mentioned you'd be travelling and racing, was hoping you would be heading to Oz. Enjoy the trip, look forward to part 3 and a Top 10 finish.
Top 10? If he's not on the podium he ain't welcome back 😂
Should mention that some pros have previously tried local Aussie crits and been smashed by A grade ... how did Alex go?
Looking forward to episode 3
Alex won the GCN Xmas prize to escape the cold winter and cover the TDU.
I have something very similar to this for (masters) road races, only I started with a stock 105 build and just swapped out wheels and bars. I added a power meter as well. Gets you 99% of what a bike costing 3 or 4 times as much would... I've seen many races won on less expensive bikes than this mind you!
At a grass routes level the rider makes such a difference to performance. That said those simple upgrades should see you flying! 🙌
@@gcntech *roots Yep. It's a really solid rig and I am definitely the limiting factor!
Love it!
Met a pro cyclist who rides a Cannondale team bike only last week. If you’re patient and purchase your components when on offer, you’ll save thousands. I’ve done four high end builds and saved up to 3K, as an example wheels alone purchased for £400 and should of been £1000, frame £1500 should've been £3200 Also the pro rider told me that Cannondale as a company are struggling massively with sales.
They have quite an old lineup over all. The new Supersix Evo is a good step but many races were still won on the SystemSix. Also the gravel lineup needs a refresh.
it’s “should’ve”. “Should of” doesn’t make any sense grammatically :)
I was at a Giant dealership last week and they have loads of old stock they need to shift.
Some proper bargains to be had right now.
Sounds like you're a real deal hunter 👀 What's the best bike bargain you've ever found?
@@gcntech I purchased a Colnago C64 (disc brakes) this summer second hand and I traveled to London for it. The seller had eight high end bikes and with respect was a very successful business man. It originally was an 11K build, all receipts, service history and a few other components thrown in. I paid 3K for it, I have since sold it to fund my next build for this summer. I appreciate that I was very fortunate, however the top end bikes are out there you just have to look and if you can purchase to break up, you can soon reduce the cost of your next project.
If by down under, you mean racing in Australia, Alex should make a guest appearance on the Nero Show while he's there. Assuming you'll be in the same region as them. That crossover would be amazing! @ChrisMillerCycling
The bike looks really nice and should be a blast to race
We think it might fly 💨
Very nice, 🎉🎉🎉 finally not plastic bike.
Recently waited for the sales to get a bike to race on, £1500 for a 11 speed 105 disk Super Six and then 2nd hand Roval C38 wheels. Way under £3500, but I get the point, 105 is plenty good enough.
Super nice in the Bike Vault.
Modern performance-oriented alu frames, 105, and a fast and grippy set of wheels make a proper missile if the engine is adequate.
Do you think that black BB adapter (I'm guessing from BB30a to Shimano) will cause creaks?
There's a higher chance of that happening as there are more parts in the system. On top of that, the bearings aren't right next to the crankarms, so they'll be subject to more leverage-induced stress.
Back when I was still selling Specialized bikes, most customers who were looking to opt for a frame-up build with an S-Works Tarmac SL6 Disc, third-generation S-Works Venge and first-generation Allez Sprint (rim and disc) would pick 30-to-24 mm adapters for the 6806 bearings that come with these framesets since the running cost is the lowest, especially when the S-Works models use CeramicSpeed bearings just because they want to use them.
I however, told them an alternative, which is to use a BB30 BB for Shimano Hollowtech II cranksets instead. The running costs may be higher (but can actually be offset by selling the CeramicSpeed 6806 bearings), but the BB area will end up with less parts which in turn lead to lower chances of creaking. I remember nobody took my advice to heart.
Really beautiful. Don‘t crash it, Alex! And it still needs white bar tape.
I reckon id definitely do a similar build with the same frameset for around £2000 using ebay, ali express etc.
We would love to hear how that goes! Custom builds are so much fun 🙌
Superwow!!!
Неймовірно красивий кастом!!!
Curious why not full mechanical including the brakes? Is there a weight and cost savings between mechanical and hydraulic disk brakes? Would it be better to travel with a mechanical disk setup?
Sometimes I still wonder why on earth I gave in to a carbon frame. Because with the money I would have had left over if I had bought an aluminum frame I could have bought so many other nice things. And for me as a recreational cyclist it would have made no difference
Answer is easy: you weren’t exercising smart buying and did the same thing people do when walking in to buy a car. Get sold like being led to slaughter
It's what I've done time and time again with several aluminum frames, I've had and still have a CAAD13 and I was riding a CAAD9 and blasting my mates on SL7 on segments and in climbs. Riding a CAAD10 now. I'd rather spend the money on components and or the ability to build many bikes over a few years as I like building them and comparing them etc. I like the way aluminum transfers the power and gives me some road sensation. I've had a Giant TCR and it felt dead and numb to ride.
Bike looks fantastic. All the negative comments on here are all about price. They’ve missed the point about building your own bike!
I always build my own bikes up from scratch and they.always come in better value than off the shelf with some wise purchasing choices. Building up your own bike doesn't mean more expensive - especially once you are in higher cost brackets (above 2.5k ish)
Ofcourse it's about price. They compliment themselves going 105 as it's the groupset of the people, and going alloy as it's cheap to replace when crashing. Next they end up with a 3.5K bike while you can have better performance off the shelf for 500-1000 less.
I think wheels are a place where it inly makes sense to go second hand, you'll get probably 50% off a wheelset that is functionally brand new
I'll go custom-configured, my spec costs less than many big brands out there and can be classified as mid-tier pricing with good hubs.
My mate bought 2nd hand zipps for the price of my brand new elite 50mms. His hub just exploded after about a year.
@@adambrickley1119 ZIPP hubs aren't the best out there, I remember some older ones have been reported for breaking flanges.
A carbon cockpit's risky on a crit bike. Aled, carbon bottle cages? Manon will go ballistic!
You know that the PRO Vibe bars/stem+PRO Stealth saddle in Carbon have a combined RRP of £860 GBP! I know Shimano sent over freebies for a product placement slot, but seems somewhat over the top when you are talking about a lower budget alloy bike build!
The alloy versions of those parts retail for £319, so probably more realistic for the purposes of crit racing. #justsaying
Yes, aluminium cockpits make most sense for crits. Impact-resistance is a reason why my frameset and cockpit aren't carbon.
Nice bike build😍
Go race the Driveway Series in Austin, Texas on this bike.
8,3 kg for an aluminium bike with disc brake. Not bad. With pedals it would be about 8,6. 8,7. Mine Cannondale Super Six Evo 2012 with rimbrakes, flatbar, Crank bros. pedals, carbonwheels 50 mm, bottle cages weighs 6,8 kg. Size 56 cm
you're gonna do crit racing with a 50/34 crankset ? that's wild !
I’ve been racing 50/34 with 11/32 cassette for years. I’ve even won a few, if you can spin 50/11 out you’d be a pro.
I love the idea of building up a bike but £3,500 is a lot of money. I have recently bought a Planet X Pro Carbon with full Ultegra groupset and 55mm deep carbon wheels for £2,000. It's a dream and potentially half the price of this with it's custom paint job!
If you crash or flat in a Criterium, will your "pit wheels" work with your disc brake set up, without dragging or without squealing? Can those wheels be rebuilt cheaply when you crash? (and you will)
i bought a tcr with rival axs, carbon wheels, power meter, brand new from store for 3300, this doesn’t sound like a steal. not forgetting to mention the frame is carbon and more aero than this one 😂
A bit pricey , but would buy it for 3k tbh. One thing with GCN builds, why do you greas friction fit components?
I have a CAAD13 for my winter bike. Great bit of kit! What adjustment/piece of kit did you get to make the Shimano crank compatible with the Cannondale BB? I haven't attempted to change myself. Just something I'm aware of after I purchased it.
Just buy a new BB30A BB made for Shimano Hollowtech II, don't bother with adaptors just because they're the cheaper option. I prioritise bearing stance over pricing and shortcuts.
If your CAAD13 uses disc brakes or an electronic groupset, you can't run BBInfinite as the rear hydraulic hose and wires will get in the way.
What sort of BB30 to 24mm adapter did you use?
Which amateur crit are you planning where you really need more than a 50/11?
They're going to Australia. Definitely need faster gears than you'll use in England 😂
Back in 2019 you could but a light weight alloy 105 bike for around a grand, that’s an affordable budget bike. For what this costs you could get a Vitus ZX1 with carbon wheel and all on it for that 😂
Do I ‘need’ a crit bike? (anymore than I need a big travel DH/ XC/ Gravel touring/ cyclocross/ bicycle with 2 wheels, gears and a comfortable if not ‘aero’ riding position?)
Buy a dogma F10 for same or less price, scram red rim brake e tap too plus it’s a shade of 7kgs
Lovely looking bike, but including paint you've spent 4k for an alu frame and 105 group set...
Again, judging from other comments below, Alex gets pilloried and must have developed a thick skin for all the self inflicted stick he unleashes on himself in this video! Clearly circa gbp £4k for a budget build makes the word "budget" kind of pale into insignificance!
I was fortunate to be able to order and buy a new Giant all carbon tcr advanced pro with all Ultegra upgrades for gbp £3,100.00, earlier in the year. So many other commentators have alluded that they've bought similar off the peg for less too.
Admittedly, its nice to be able to build up your own custom bike having done it on a shoestring budget in my youth, then standing back and admire the handywork.
But to sum it up, imo this is not a budget build by any stretch even doing all the assembly work personally!😂😂😂
why on earth did you chose a carbon handlebar for a crit bike? the pro vibe aero aluminium would be the cheaper and more reliable option for this i guess
It is. Aluminium handlebars are more impact-resistant than carbon handlebars, that's why my cockpit is strictly aluminium. I don't want to be worrying whether my handlebars are cracked after a fall or crash.
“One of those carbon bottle cages might be coming off”. That will save you 10 grammes then 😅
Not sure if 21mm internal rim width is the standard just yet. Im still seeing a lot of 18s and 19's
Expensive IMHO.
50/34 waay to small for Crit racing. Color is a banger 😮
Giant tcr pro 2 is on sale currently at 2k at the moment. With carbon wheels….. ah well
But with a 1 1/4-inch steerer tube, giving you way less stem choices.
@@yonglingng5640the standard TCR is also on sale. Even cheaper.
@@yonglingng5640 correct. But how many stem choices do you require? The giant sl stem is stiff and light. The carbon more so. There is also zipp pro and ritchey. Most modern bikes with integrated bars give zero options
@@gregkane8635 Some riders may have a preferred stem brand & model and not all of them have a 1 1/4-inch version, especially if you're after finer details like stem rise and stack height (the height of steerer tube coverage by the stem).
As a former shop mechanic, I prefer products with as much product compatibility as possible, so many 2020s framesets out there don't make my cut and that includes the Pinarello Dogma F so many people drool over.
@@l.d.t.6327 Yes, that's my favourite Giant. In fact, I almost bought a rim brake version of that bike in late 2020, but it may not be for the reason you think.
Crit bike with a cassette perfect for tiapas?
What model is those Handlebar tape?
Is Alex sleeping rough on the sofa at GCN megga base in the same clothes from last week/yesterday?
Nice, in fact it's "supernice" 🔔
Huge money for an entry level bike. Big brands focus on lean, faster and cheaper manufacturing justifying the high price tag with global inflation to ensure growth and keep shareholders 🤑.
Don't think that's entry level. That's solidly mid level. Still seems a little pricey, but not terrible
Just say you’re wearing exactly the same clothes for continuity reasons. Makes perfect sense 😉
Damn $3200 is the "perfect balance" between price and performance for a mid tier group and alu frame
What’s the bar tape?
You could have had an off-the-shelf Giant TCR pro advanced with 105 mechanical and Giant Carbon wheels for 2600 euro/pound/dollars. That's a full 1000 less than your alu bike with the same groupset and comparable wheels. For that savings, you could have bought a CAAD frame as a reserve for whenever you crash the TCR...
Or you could just go straight to the CAAD13 and not risk the loss resulting from the crash of a TCR.
@@Turbo329 so you would rather spend 1000 pounds more, without even knowing you will crash the thing in the coming 2-3 years after which you buy another bike? You realize you can damage that CAAD as well in a crash, and you won't have, compared to buying the TCR, any money to replace that frame.
@@l.d.t.6327 You make a great point and I respect what you're saying. In the few years that I raced I have never seen an aluminum frame get mangled beyond a minor repair. Not even chain stays. Carbon is a different story. And if I raced 20 times in a season, there were crashes in 19 of them. No exaggeration. I love my carbon bikes, and my preference would be to race them. However, my brain says that being on my CAAD13 is the smarter option. The other side of it is, you don't need to spend $3,500 to get into a CAAD13 like the one in this video. You can spend a lot less and have an amazing Crit racer. Wheelsets are cheap now. You could probably do it for $2,000-$2,500 USD for a new-ish bike complete with a badass wheel set.
from this price you can take canyon aeroroad whit ultegra (mechanical )
Your next epidode should be: cheap upgrade to your bike. Start witb your dis rotors to save 50g 😂
All that and still a press fit BB. Come on, Cannondale! Beautiful looking bike though.
What's the size?As we were given the weight but not the size
Turn the pedals in anger, I like that line.