Seemed like sarcasm to me cause if you have any idea how to disassemble the gun you shouldnt be watching this video. And 9 times out of 10 people dont know the steps to put it back together.
No. We at Hoppe’s thought it important most of all that you know how to ruin a gun by not running it dry as designed - but rather oiling it with our overpriced mineral oil, which will attract and hold dirt and grit, forming a great rubbing compound. Our fine oil will work it’s way into the chamber where it will prevent the cartridge from sealing against the chamber walls as an integral unit at point of ignition, resulting to damage to the chamber throat and to the bolt face from escaping gases. Pretty neat, huh? In addition over time oil- which should never have been in the gun in the first place- with the help of gravity- will find it’s way to the wood stock, causing rot and cracks. So apply our wonderful mineral oil concoction, sit back, and enjoy the show. Alternatively call Ruger customer service wherin Ruger (what do they know?) will tell you: Never oil a gun.🤠
I was taught to always start at the breach to clean . that is the way I have done it for 60 years .Why take a chance damaging the crown going through the end of barrel ? Get a Flexible Threaded Bore Cleaning Coated Cable to protect your crown and breach face.
The 10-22 does not give access for a cleaning rod to enter at the breach without removing the barrel from the action, so like a revolver, you generally need to clean them from the muzzle.
@@justashooter5051 or you could do it the RIGHT way WITH the RIGHT Flexible rod Or snake as shown here by the MANUFACTURER ...RUGER ..... th-cam.com/video/kB6Mfl_2AMo/w-d-xo.html
You're a wizard with that bolt reassembly. I got the bolt wedged in sideways twice and I can tell you if this happens you will scratch the hell out of the inside the receiver getting it out. I had never done this before and it's pretty intimidating the first time.
@@michaelreale3647 Utilizing a muzzle guard/crown protector is likely the easiest and best solution. Others include: -Using a bore snake, while being careful not to bias force to one side when pulling it out the end -Inserting a cleaning rod into the receiver without the desired brush/patch holder, attaching said component, and pull it rearward out of the barrel. Personally, I'd just get the crown protector if I was worried
Lots of haters out there not making better videos. Thanks for the video and taking the time to try to help others and subjecting yourself to the “experts” that could do it better, but don’t. If you own a firearm, and know anything about firearms, this video is helpful. Just needed a refresher on my 10/22. And since I took it apart, I can also put it back together without you showing me the same steps in reverse. Look forward to more videos from you.
For all of the pearl-clutchers gasping over cleaning from the muzzle end, there are 2 easy solutions: 1. use a bore snake 2. many gun cleaning kits now include a crown protector that either clips over the crown or slips over the cleaning rod and sits in/on the crown as you push the rod through. The Mosin-Nagant Soviet-era cleaning kits included a crown protector. It's not like this is a new concept.
Dang….I’ve only had mine a little while…like 40 years or so. Shot hundreds of bricks of 22’s through it. Actually lost it in the river for a nite or two…most I’ve ever done to clean it is spray it out with Rem oil or wd40. Guarantee it will shoot right now. I guess it’s good to know how it comes apart but think I’ll just shoot mine. Thanks
I think I’m a little screwed. The barrel clamp on the front of the gun is messed up now and I can’t take it off. I stripped out the area where the actual nut is that is supposed to stay still and now it just spins and the bolt isn’t coming out at all. Any tips? Anything would be greatly appreciated
It’s possible you only loosed the nut from the screw to the point where they are now free spinning, because the nut is a replaceable, disposable part, and THE NUT IS NOT CAPTIVE. If loosened enough, it will leave its channel and freely spin as the screw spins, thus not unscrewing. To solve this, press the nut into the cutout of the barrel band WHILE you are unscrewing it. Turn the screw, but DO NOT PRESS DOWN. You’ll just press the nut out of the channel if you do. You can’t unscrew the nut from the screw if the nut if not held in place by the cutout in the barrel band.
gee i dont know where to begin and dont want to be rude and contrary but ill share that i clean ever time i shoot mine and i take her clear down. get yourself a inch pound torque wrench use felt pellets get a good coated rod and have a set of v blocks or one of them plastic gizmos to set the barreled action into i highly reccomend going fore to aft as in cleaning from back to front use number 9 after you get thru with sweets if needed and jb if if needed start the first run w #9 let her sit fore a while then get to scrubbin with a plastic brush and some bore cleaner like 9 then a dry patch to check then when clean work a patch or pellet soaked in lock ease down the barrelled action of course dissasemble the bolt and trigger action clean and lightly relubricate with your choice of gun oil sparingly then reassemble and torque the hold down lug to the same torque setting that worked best for you
what im tryin to say is start with 9 let her sit go in dry read what you got if its still and probably will be do it again if its about the same get to scrubbin with the sweets hit a dry patch or 2 then wet mop w9 let her sit to check if you got anything on it commence to scrubbing with jb and felt pettets then some dry pellets then a-wet 9 pellet let it sit them check it w a dry one.
A video that doesnt show where the high friction oil points are or how to reassemble the gun ,great work my dude , take thr rest of the day off and rekax
Pure BS. NEVER OIL A GUN. Tool steel parts designed to bed in to each other over time. Oil ruins a gun, attracts and turns grit into a grinding paste, ruins the chamber by preventing a tight cartridge to chamber gad seal during ignition, seeps into the stock and rots the wood. Call Ruger customer service. They built the damn thing and hnow more about their own guns than anyone else. Ruger will tell you over the phone: Never oil a gun. 🤠☺️👍👍👍
I'm not trying to be rude, I'm trying to be helpful to folks. I stopped 1:52 into video. Never clean muzzle to breech. ALWAYS clean your barrels following the projectiles path. From breech to muzzle. For new shooters or folks that don't know those terms. From the cartridges entry/starting point to the exit. Buy A Bore Snake and learn to use it folks. 🐍🧵💪
I don't know why everybody's hung up on which direction to go. To me that makes absolutely no sense. Am I missing something here but the barrel is not tapered inside a rifle.. unless you're pushing concrete out of the inside of the barrel what difference does it make. The breach is still easy to get to on a 1022. And again unless you're pushing concrete all the gunk is going to be on the Cotton patch 4:12
Why'd you not show how the barrel brush comes out... Especially since you send it down the barrel without specifically mentioning that is the correct way to do it...
“Put a drop of gun oil on high friction areas” - to which I ask: Where’s the spark plug? Guns are not reciprocating engines. They are tool steel and are designed to run dry. Oiling a gun simply magnetizes grit into a rubbing compound and gravity forces oil into the stock where it rots the wood. Don’t take my word for it. Call Ruger customer service and they will tell you the same thing: NEVER OIL A GUN! 🤠
Useless. Got it apart, now have to go find an entirely different video on how to reassemble. There's a loose spring that was never mentioned anywhere. Terrible job!
Well no, the important thing got you to buy Hoppe’s gun oil $$$ instead of purchasing a quart of mineral oil at Rite Aid- the same thing- and great when a little bit added to 100% cotton flannel rag to wipe down parts during reassembly - before which you called Ruger customer service and they confirmed over the phone : Never oil a gun!
For us girls learning to clean our guns it would really be helpful to actually say what the high friction areas are and not just say lube them. The rest of the video was good.
Hell, for anybody learning lol this vid is kinda sh*t (good quick overview) but there are other much m ore detailed videos on yt where you can actually see what is being done
This video is simply to advertise Hoppe's. For disassembly and reassembly check for youtube videos on the 10/22, or any other firearm. I found nothing beneficial in this set of videos.
See Forrest Trenaman’s 10/22 cleaning video for a thorough and up close video. This one is crap for the actual details about how to proceed. Forrest disassbles the 10 round 10/22 magazines as well.
Correct. $$ mostly spent cause you ruined your guns in the first place by oiling them. Buy a quart of mineral oil at Rite Aid. Put a teaspoon of that oil on a 20” x 20” 100% cotton flannel rag (purchase by the yard dressmaking store- stored in airtight container). Wring the oil into your rag and use the rag to wipe down all parts during reassembly and also the exterior of your gun anytime after handling. That’s all the oiling your gun ever needs. Ruger customer service will tell you over the phone: Never oil a gun!👍
Yeah and try Hoppe’s gun oil in your hair. It’ll attract dirt same as the gun. You and your gun will both smell great and you’ll be a big hit at the range.🤡
With the exception of the safety portions, this video is TERRIBLE. Not only do some steps directly contradict which I've been taught, but several steps narrated are not clearly shown, or at all. Not even your products are readable. I plan to share this video to my friends for some laughs.
Loved how you saved time by skipping over the reassembly of the action. That was cool.
I believe that was sarcasm. Love it
@@monichan2003 No, it wasn't sarcasm. It was gratitude for not having to sit through crap I already knew about.
Seemed like sarcasm to me cause if you have any idea how to disassemble the gun you shouldnt be watching this video. And 9 times out of 10 people dont know the steps to put it back together.
@@danielhosking7257 He was being sarcastic in comment #1 and comment #2 lol.
Shot thousands of rounds through this rifle, and have never cleaned it..... That's why I am watching this video! Am I wrong?
a tiny bit of detail disassembling and reassembling might have been nice. did you think I just wanted to know how to run a patch through the barrell?
No. We at Hoppe’s thought it important most of all that you know how to ruin a gun by not running it dry as designed - but rather oiling it with our overpriced mineral oil, which will attract and hold dirt and grit, forming a great rubbing compound. Our fine oil will work it’s way into the chamber where it will prevent the cartridge from sealing against the chamber walls as an integral unit at point of ignition, resulting to damage to the chamber throat and to the bolt face from escaping gases. Pretty neat, huh? In addition over time oil- which should never have been in the gun in the first place- with the help of gravity- will find it’s way to the wood stock, causing rot and cracks. So apply our wonderful mineral oil concoction, sit back, and enjoy the show. Alternatively call Ruger customer service wherin Ruger (what do they know?) will
tell you: Never oil a gun.🤠
I was taught to always start at the breach to clean . that is the way I have done it for 60 years .Why take a chance damaging the crown going through the end of barrel ? Get a Flexible Threaded Bore Cleaning Coated Cable to protect your crown and breach face.
I also never go from barrel to the breach, take the time and do it right - breach to barrel - no short cuts
@@patfeys8278 100% this old video git it right....th-cam.com/video/kB6Mfl_2AMo/w-d-xo.html
The 10-22 does not give access for a cleaning rod to enter at the breach without removing the barrel from the action, so like a revolver, you generally need to clean them from the muzzle.
@@justashooter5051 or you could do it the RIGHT way WITH the RIGHT Flexible rod Or snake as shown here by the MANUFACTURER ...RUGER ..... th-cam.com/video/kB6Mfl_2AMo/w-d-xo.html
Bore Snake for the win!
You're a wizard with that bolt reassembly. I got the bolt wedged in sideways twice and I can tell you if this happens you will scratch the hell out of the inside the receiver getting it out. I had never done this before and it's pretty intimidating the first time.
Just bought one and this was a big help guys. Thank you
I disagree with cleaning the rifle barrel by inserting rod through the muzzle end versus breech end. Easy way to screw up the crown.
How do you plan on inserting at a 45degree angle from the action side
@@michaelreale3647 Utilizing a muzzle guard/crown protector is likely the easiest and best solution. Others include:
-Using a bore snake, while being careful not to bias force to one side when pulling it out the end
-Inserting a cleaning rod into the receiver without the desired brush/patch holder, attaching said component, and pull it rearward out of the barrel.
Personally, I'd just get the crown protector if I was worried
@@michaelreale3647 Only 2 bolts to remove the barrel from the receiver. It takes 5 minutes.
Lots of haters out there not making better videos.
Thanks for the video and taking the time to try to help others and subjecting yourself to the “experts” that could do it better, but don’t. If you own a firearm, and know anything about firearms, this video is helpful. Just needed a refresher on my 10/22. And since I took it apart, I can also put it back together without you showing me the same steps in reverse. Look forward to more videos from you.
And I look forward to the day you learned never oil a gun which information you garnered by intelligently asking questions…
For all of the pearl-clutchers gasping over cleaning from the muzzle end, there are 2 easy solutions:
1. use a bore snake
2. many gun cleaning kits now include a crown protector that either clips over the crown or slips over the cleaning rod and sits in/on the crown as you push the rod through.
The Mosin-Nagant Soviet-era cleaning kits included a crown protector. It's not like this is a new concept.
It’s a 10/22 ffs!
Broad brush stroke. Wish it shown closer and more specific. But got bid.
Good luck man.
Short and clear explanation, thank you
Dang….I’ve only had mine a little while…like 40 years or so. Shot hundreds of bricks of 22’s through it. Actually lost it in the river for a nite or two…most I’ve ever done to clean it is spray it out with Rem oil or wd40. Guarantee it will shoot right now. I guess it’s good to know how it comes apart but think I’ll just shoot mine. Thanks
Where are "high friction areas"? Reassembly instructions???
I think I’m a little screwed. The barrel clamp on the front of the gun is messed up now and I can’t take it off. I stripped out the area where the actual nut is that is supposed to stay still and now it just spins and the bolt isn’t coming out at all. Any tips? Anything would be greatly appreciated
Drill it out.. buy a new band
It’s possible you only loosed the nut from the screw to the point where they are now free spinning, because the nut is a replaceable, disposable part, and THE NUT IS NOT CAPTIVE. If loosened enough, it will leave its channel and freely spin as the screw spins, thus not unscrewing.
To solve this, press the nut into the cutout of the barrel band WHILE you are unscrewing it. Turn the screw, but DO NOT PRESS DOWN. You’ll just press the nut out of the channel if you do. You can’t unscrew the nut from the screw if the nut if not held in place by the cutout in the barrel band.
gee i dont know where to begin and dont want to be rude and contrary but ill share that i clean ever time i shoot mine and i take her clear down. get yourself a inch pound torque wrench use felt pellets get a good coated rod and have a set of v blocks or one of them plastic gizmos to set the barreled action into i highly reccomend going fore to aft as in cleaning from back to front use number 9 after you get thru with sweets if needed and jb if if needed start the first run w #9 let her sit fore a while then get to scrubbin with a plastic brush and some bore cleaner like 9 then a dry patch to check then when clean work a patch or pellet soaked in lock ease down the barrelled action of course dissasemble the bolt and trigger action clean and lightly relubricate with your choice of gun oil sparingly then reassemble and torque the hold down lug to the same torque setting that worked best for you
what im tryin to say is start with 9 let her sit go in dry read what you got if its still and probably will be do it again if its about the same get to scrubbin with the sweets hit a dry patch or 2 then wet mop w9 let her sit to check if you got anything on it commence to scrubbing with jb and felt pettets then some dry pellets then a-wet 9 pellet let it sit them check it w a dry one.
A video that doesnt show where the high friction oil points are or how to reassemble the gun ,great work my dude , take thr rest of the day off and rekax
Pure BS. NEVER OIL A GUN. Tool steel parts designed to bed in to each other over time. Oil ruins a gun, attracts and turns grit into a grinding paste, ruins the chamber by preventing a tight cartridge to chamber gad seal during ignition, seeps into the stock and rots the wood. Call Ruger customer service. They built the damn thing and hnow more about their own guns than anyone else.
Ruger will tell you over the phone: Never oil a gun. 🤠☺️👍👍👍
above typo: gas seal
I have a scope mounted on my Ruger .22 LR. Any suggestions on cleaning the rifle ?
Wtf does having a scope on it have to do with cleaning it?
@@daddylongleg149 Makes it harder to hold the rifle upside down to get at teh places that need cleaned
@@RWAlcorn common sense would tell you to take the scope off
boresnake. they work really well.
Poor visual. Poor camera work. For something like this it begs for zoom.
I'm not trying to be rude, I'm trying to be helpful to folks.
I stopped 1:52 into video.
Never clean muzzle to breech.
ALWAYS clean your barrels following the projectiles path. From breech to muzzle. For new shooters or folks that don't know those terms. From the cartridges entry/starting point to the exit.
Buy A Bore Snake and learn to use it folks. 🐍🧵💪
Thanks
@John McAlister no its hoops
It does not matter as long as you are using a brass rod and tip or brush. Phosphor and nylon are fine too
@@BDBD16 I heard hoppies. LoL
I don't know why everybody's hung up on which direction to go. To me that makes absolutely no sense. Am I missing something here but the barrel is not tapered inside a rifle.. unless you're pushing concrete out of the inside of the barrel what difference does it make. The breach is still easy to get to on a 1022. And again unless you're pushing concrete all the gunk is going to be on the Cotton patch 4:12
Love the music!!! WISH IT WAS LOUDER!!!!!!
Smells good
nice how you skipped over the hardest part. Thanks for nothing dude
The hardest part is resisting that urge to oil a gun.
I had to stop watching because the MUSIC WAS SO UNNECESSARY.
Why'd you not show how the barrel brush comes out... Especially since you send it down the barrel without specifically mentioning that is the correct way to do it...
“Put a drop of gun oil on high friction areas” - to which I ask: Where’s the spark plug? Guns are not reciprocating engines. They are tool steel and are designed to run dry. Oiling a gun simply magnetizes grit into a rubbing compound and gravity forces oil into the stock where it rots the wood. Don’t take my word for it. Call Ruger customer service and they will tell you the same thing: NEVER OIL A GUN! 🤠
Useless. Got it apart, now have to go find an entirely different video on how to reassemble. There's a loose spring that was never mentioned anywhere. Terrible job!
Well no, the important thing got you to buy Hoppe’s gun oil $$$ instead of purchasing a quart of mineral oil at Rite Aid- the same thing- and great when a little bit added to 100% cotton flannel rag to wipe down parts during reassembly - before which you called Ruger customer service and they confirmed over the phone : Never oil a gun!
Did I see him clean the barrel from the muzzle? I always clean from the breech. I think that's the recommended way.
Thanks for sharing
Christ almighty, never clean from the muzzle end, always clean the same path of bullet travel and never pull back through!
For us girls learning to clean our guns it would really be helpful to actually say what the high friction areas are and not just say lube them. The rest of the video was good.
Hell, for anybody learning lol this vid is kinda sh*t (good quick overview) but there are other much m ore detailed videos on yt where you can actually see what is being done
And dudes too...
This video is simply to advertise Hoppe's. For disassembly and reassembly check for youtube videos on the 10/22, or any other firearm.
I found nothing beneficial in this set of videos.
See Forrest Trenaman’s 10/22 cleaning video for a thorough and up close video. This one is crap for the actual details about how to proceed. Forrest disassbles the 10 round 10/22 magazines as well.
That was virtually no help to me at all.
After cleaning this gun, I feel like I’ve been through Armorer school again.. I don’t understand why this gun is so popular..
It’s popular cause it’s a great gun.
@@efreutel I didn’t say it wasn’t.. I said it is hard to clean..
No detail on the disassembly?? WTH???
I hate cleaning this gun. I really hate it
I would rather remove the action and the clean out the barrel from the rear
Didnt show shit
👍😎👍
So very un informative you don’t even show whag you’re doing
And not showing a good thing! Never oil a gun.🤠
Then, buy more hoppes and then buy more and more until you spend $1000.00 a year!🙏
Correct. $$ mostly spent cause you ruined your guns in the first place by oiling them. Buy a quart of mineral oil at Rite Aid. Put a teaspoon of that oil on a 20” x 20” 100% cotton flannel rag (purchase by the yard dressmaking store- stored in airtight container). Wring the oil into your rag and use the rag to wipe down all parts during reassembly and also the exterior of your gun anytime after handling. That’s all the oiling your gun ever needs. Ruger customer service will tell you over the phone: Never oil a gun!👍
P,S. Hoppe’s gun oil is just repackaged mineral oil with maybe a little dye and perfume added. Rite Aid mineral oil 100% the same thing.
Yeah and try Hoppe’s gun oil in your hair. It’ll attract dirt same as the gun. You and your gun will both smell great and you’ll be a big hit at the range.🤡
@@efreutel 😂😂😂😂😂
@@efreutel You right.
I guess for a $300 rifle that's cool. But I would never do that to my Anschutz ,Yikes!
Can’t even get the pins out smh
I will be avoiding your products since you clearly can't make a simple video without it being more of an advertisement than an actual helpful video.
No! Never oil a gun.😵
Could have done better.
Really?? You reassembled without showing us. Lame
With the exception of the safety portions, this video is TERRIBLE. Not only do some steps directly contradict which I've been taught, but several steps narrated are not clearly shown, or at all. Not even your products are readable. I plan to share this video to my friends for some laughs.
….
To bad the music sucks...
bad video
Do better.
That’s not how my bolt comes out… I have no idea what you did
What he did was ruin a gun by oiling it. Don’t believe me? Call Ruger customer service and see what they have to say about “oiling guns.”