Nice one Steve :) This is a useful trick imho, especially when you have to squint hard to read the measurements on a standard string gauge (getting old and even with glasses can be a pain lol). Not so sure it would work as well on the inner strings however, as you can't hold the corner of the pad as firmly? Whatever the case, love a nice cheap new idea and even if it's only on the outer strings, it gives you a good starting guide 👍
Thanks! In practice, the vast majority of string hight measurements are done using the outer strings - the rest tend to go along for the ride and wind up being fine tuned using a radius gauge.
This approach is interesting, but I'm not sure it's an improvement. As far as I'm concerned, I don't need to know how far out the action is: I only need to know when it's within spec. I too have a selection of coins of varying thickness, which is all that's needed to get the action to factory spec. Hold a coin of the desired thickness across two frets (e.g., 16 & 17) beneath the string, pluck, and lower until it touches the coin. Then check for buzz and adjust as necessary. The relief, and nut action are different matters, of course.
Excellent points! For those learning how to refine their own instruments, well defined reference points come in super handy. In practice though, you're right, how far off you are doesn't matter. Where you need to be is dictated by the instrument and the player's style. How you get there can be accomplished by any number of technical approaches.
I use an old credit card with a business card taped on top . It's 1.5 mm, I use tape on both ends of the card place above the 12th /13th fret using the tape to form with the radius of the frets. Works awesome!!
Unless it's an optical illusion or not coming through on the camera correctly, it looks like those frets need to be re-crowned. Some of them look pretty flat on top.
Question, why not use your calipers to measure from the bottom of the string to the fretboard and then measure the fret and subtract the difference? Concerned the inside measurement jaws won't fit? Just curious.
It's still so wierd to me that any guitar owner doesn't figure out simple stuff like setting their own truss rod and string action . . hopefully your trick will help a few more players to take care of themselves 😁👍
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guitar picks have the thickness written on them & can be stacked easily. a handful of picks will give you endless options of thicknesses
This is the way...
Actually a great idea, now to find some picks that are a few microns thick to setup my preferred insanely low action 🤣
Nice one Steve :) This is a useful trick imho, especially when you have to squint hard to read the measurements on a standard string gauge (getting old and even with glasses can be a pain lol). Not so sure it would work as well on the inner strings however, as you can't hold the corner of the pad as firmly? Whatever the case, love a nice cheap new idea and even if it's only on the outer strings, it gives you a good starting guide 👍
Thanks! In practice, the vast majority of string hight measurements are done using the outer strings - the rest tend to go along for the ride and wind up being fine tuned using a radius gauge.
This approach is interesting, but I'm not sure it's an improvement. As far as I'm concerned, I don't need to know how far out the action is: I only need to know when it's within spec. I too have a selection of coins of varying thickness, which is all that's needed to get the action to factory spec. Hold a coin of the desired thickness across two frets (e.g., 16 & 17) beneath the string, pluck, and lower until it touches the coin. Then check for buzz and adjust as necessary. The relief, and nut action are different matters, of course.
Excellent points! For those learning how to refine their own instruments, well defined reference points come in super handy. In practice though, you're right, how far off you are doesn't matter. Where you need to be is dictated by the instrument and the player's style. How you get there can be accomplished by any number of technical approaches.
I've heard that expert techs/luthiers never use the proposed method. I wonder why?
The method's not meant to help them.
@@guitar-niche That is so funny! Thanks!!
I use an old credit card with a business card taped on top . It's 1.5 mm, I use tape on both ends of the card place above the 12th /13th fret using the tape to form with the radius of the frets. Works awesome!!
Awesome! If it works, it works!
Unless it's an optical illusion or not coming through on the camera correctly, it looks like those frets need to be re-crowned. Some of them look pretty flat on top.
Push the blue button on your caliper for mm.
Question, why not use your calipers to measure from the bottom of the string to the fretboard and then measure the fret and subtract the difference? Concerned the inside measurement jaws won't fit? Just curious.
It's a matter of convenient manipulation really, plus a lot of folks still use old school c-type callipers.
Too many steps.
I feel like this is more annoying than the string action gage
Yes, annoying...
But more people have stickies around than string guages so still helpful :)
@@Barkosaur true
@@Barkosaur If you've got a digital caliper... but no string gauge....you're doing it wrong.
lol 🤣
It's still so wierd to me that any guitar owner doesn't figure out simple stuff like setting their own truss rod and string action . . hopefully your trick will help a few more players to take care of themselves 😁👍
Exactly, thanks!