LIVE UPDATE: With a heavy heart we are reporting that Zingaro is shipwrecked. Find out more on Kickstarter: www.kickstarter.com/projects/sailingzingaro/sailing-zingaro-season-two-of-the-web-series
Speaking of tools these two green goof balls above me are scammers don't trust them speaking of things not to trust Maynard James Keenan don't trust him he's smarter than you the good music though no one else has instrumentals like that nobody
Little story about dynema. It`s produced in a small factory in the south of the netherlands. For my work i had a contract to dispose of the leftover strands en production failures. The first time we just dumped the dynema in a landfill.. The big caterpillar dozers that would work on the landfill stopped working that same day. The reason being that the dynema scraps would get wrapped around the tracks and stop them dead i. We are talking big d8 dozers here. I`m pretty sure it will hold up a mast. just keep checking your tension while it settles
My man, you are a fantastic tutor. GREAT job! I am now retired, but used to do this for a living, and you make it look so easy. Very important information delivered in simple, direct language. All the best. Your videos are always worth waiting for.
That was the best 45 minutes of my life in ages. I was mesmerized there for a bit. I can just imagine these are skills that just about every old time sailor HAD to know back in the 1700's to 1900's.
Every sailor should know how to splice the lines on his boat. Took me years to finally sit down and learn it. That's one of the best things about the boat, always another skill to learn.
If you are a book type, try and find a copy of "a young sea officer's sheet anchor" everything any one ever knew about rigging in one place. Dyneema is making all the old skills new again.
After your first video on dyneema I searched TH-cam for more information on rigging with dyneema. This is the most informative one I have seen, great job and thanks a lot! Definitely going to use it when I replace my rigging in October
Nice to see your appreciation of Dyneema as a DYI product! It is truly great for all kinds of uses on a boat. There are much better methods of cheaply connecting your rigging to pins. try a basket loupe going thru the thimble with each end on opposite ends of the clevis. Use big washers, inspect often. There is a high probability of failure in toggles used the way you are using them.
Was scrolling through to see if someone had addressed this. I suppose the creep issues can be dealt with if one wishes. Those double jaw toggles though would keep me awake at night. No surprise it was you John who brought this up. Sailing Zingaro, John is the man who wrote the book and defined the art of synthetic rigging. Soon, wire rigging will have been a blip in the history of rigging and we will have John Franta to thank....
If you use heat set Dyneema it doesn't creep nearly as much. Also a lot of people have been adding Stainless Turnbuckles that way after the initial mega creep you can fine tune easily. Love the vids!
Great video. I think you hit all the major points. Yea, you can have enough extra dyneema to re-rig the entire boat and you don't pay the weight penalty. I'm on a Pumpkin Chuckin team, American Chucker (search YT) and about 4 years ago, we changed our sling to dyneema with lower wind resistance, higher strength, flexability unmatched and we don't have any breakage as long as it is terminated with Fids properly. 3 years ago, we changed our stays for the throwing arm to dyneema. We still use steel where weight and cost make it sensible to use. Yea to Kimmi for correcting your English. I have to admit, I skipped toward the end to see if there was a non-technical but funny trailer... It is interesting to see the SVZ Tshirt/Stickers that peeps displayed. Nice. Oh, if you watch some of our Pumpkin Chuckin videos, understand that we do it to raise money for charities. So we go for throwing a 10 lb. pumpkin to a maximum distance and breaking the machine was just the side affect of pushing the envelope. Dyneema reduced our breakage. We won second place with our 2nd machine in the World Pumkin Chuckin Championship. Last summer, before pumpkins were available, we threw a 16 lb bowling ball 3000 feet in testing with our 3rd and present Trebuchet!
It's nice to sea "Marlin-Spike seamanship" come full circle with modern age synthetic materials! This is an incredible video and I don't know why it's taken me so long to see it (thought I was up to date on them all....) Thanks James and Kimmi!! Sea Ya!
Dyneema rigging has been coming into wider use for a few years. Good to see a DIY system that performs the same, saves weight, costs less and replacement time is easy to determine. Neat splices, easy to follow instructions and a substantial improvement on steel! Well done.
I had never heard of Dyneema before today. That was a lot of work. There were some interesting comments below. Funny how when you learn something from someone, someone else may know more. Sailing is a lifetime of learning. Thanks for putting out a great video. I learned.
I know in Holland a lot of competitionsailors use dyneema. I'm not a competionsaylor, I did change my railing from steel 5mm to 3mm dyneema and with the left over I made soft shackles, after your 1st video, to replace steel shackles
Hey just wanted to say I am amazed by the simplicity and thoroughness of this video. I must admit I had you pictured as an egomaniac. These two videos have gained my respect in every way. Thank you. Will try to send some support your way. Fair winds. peace and luv from the fat bastard! You r living my dream brother.
Interesting. Can you be specific? I'd like to change that characteristic if I come off like that, I don't mean to. Glad you liked the vids though, more instructional stuff to come.
Loved the video, your excellent demonstration, explanation and 'can do' attitude. Just a note on your 28 yo stainless rigging - eek! I've been a pro skipper and yachtmaster instructor for over 20 years; when I teach people about the importance of preventative maintenance and boat safety (those things are linked), I use a phrase we all know to make my point - false economy. As cruisers we are always trying to stretch those boat bucks, but skimping on your rig is ill advised. Stainless wire (and associated fittings) are much cheaper than a new mast, torn sails, repairing a smashed coach roof & hatches and definitely not worth dying for ! Change that stainless wire at least every 10 years and constantly inspect the fittings for cracks, crevice corrosion, wear, etc. Also, it's a misconception that standing rigging on a boat moored 10 years and not sailed is not deteriorating- crevice corrosion acts whether sailing or not! When I buy a boat my first question is how old is the standing rigging - dismasting half way from Panama to Nuku Hiva is not gonna be fun! Again, thanks for the vid. Much appreciated 😎
Great idea to use synthetic rigging, however using a thimble in a toggle is a bad idea. For one, the toggle will not be loaded evenly across the surface designed to take the load. Shock loading may find this weakness. In addition you will get a lot of stretch using regular dyneema. Heat set, pre-stretched dyneema is used for a reason, you will need to keep a very close eye on your mast while under way to ensure it is being held in column. Good luck. I do love your 'get it done' attitude, a fun channel, keep em coming.
James, great video! I'm a farmer in Kansas and I see other applications for the use of dyneema and the ways you used it. Really like the tutorial videos!
Although I do not sail I find the videos you make about the rigging terribly interesting. The knots, wraps, and connections I can use to a certain extent on land as I live in a 5th wheel camper and I have a need for things like that at times. They're also cool to show off with drinking beer with the guys. Stay safe!
Really high quality production! The audio and video detail is superb. Thanks, and I learned a lot. But, for the time it took you, the expert to splice the shroud and make and adjust the deadeye, I have replaced two of my own in SS using new wire and existing Norseman fittings. It is also apparent that frequent adjustment with deadeyes is also a bit of PIA compared to tightening a turnbuckle once a year.
Wow. Subscribed! Got my first marlinspike last week and working my way through Rigger’s Apprentice and now stumbled upon this. Can’t wait to see a part three.
I saw a tutorial on dyneema rigging on Sailing Lady Africa. The pro spokesman who came on the show threaded the line through a long anti-chaffing shroud to prevent damage from using your rigging as handholds.
I'll start off by saying I'm a power boat ..so I don't care much about Rigging...I tired to watch the Rigging Doctor explain dyneema rigging and fell asleep...you did a great job. I stayed for the whole video.....
Nice splicing James, only suggestion I will make is to put a whipping on each splice, using a large sail needle to thread through the buried tails will insure that your splices will not loosen. We used 2" double braided nylon line going into three point moore for deep recovery operations and never had a splice failure holding a 170' boat in 50 knot winds.
That’s basically only going to do anything while unloaded, isn’t it? And standing rigging should never be unloaded. That said, it probably won’t hurt either.
Great tutorial there Captain, that imparts tonnes of information. I like Dyneema now. It's ease of splicing is great and it's cost sounds like less $$, and less parts, than a steel rig. Thanks.
You killed it again ! That was so easy to follow. You are the best ! I can't wait to get my first roll of 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 . What a wonderful material. This synthetic braid is revolutionizing sailing right to the core. Thanks again ! and Kimmie did a wonderful job with the camera work and editing also. You two make a great team ! Cheers. You must have clipped on at the top if you were up there for an hour , LOL
James, I personnaly dont like the assembly shown at 20:05. The bottom piece was designed to take only perpendicular loads and the thimble is rounded shaped. You need to fill in the "gap" in between otherwise, you may have some problems.The pressure from the thimble is going to come at a 45° angle on each sides of the bottom piece and, as the boat is rocking, you are going to experience some metal fatigue and it's eventually going to break! I'm no engineer but I know what Im talking about. You schoul ask a real Engineer about this. In anyways, I love what you are doing! Take care all of You! +1.
Yeah, you're right, but that's all I've got at the moment, and those things are damn strong. I'll replace that piece with a basket strap when I can get them. It's hard to find hardware in remote areas of the world.
Agreed. I saw that happening and thought...uh-uh.....nope. I get that in remote places things aren't always available or can be very expensive, so I get that it's a temporary measure. A shaped hardwood spacer that is suggested below will remove the point loads on the assembly and spread them across a wider bearing surface would probably be good for many miles with occasional inspection. I would actually shape them so that the grain runs perpendicular to the load direction so that any splitting along the grain (which tends to happen) will then held together by the load, as opposed to the risk of separating the wooden piece into smaller bits under load. Make a half-handful of spares when you shape the first wooden ones and you'll probably never need them. Nice job for the rest of the video. Well done!
Great video thank you! I would recommend always keeping the dyneema around the Dead Eye Thimbles tight so the Thimbles don't pop out. They are way way too loose!
That's funny, I really wanted to do a funny parody on that, where I dress as a pimp and sell the idea of having extra "hose" on youyr boat. Kimmi vetoed it, but I'm right the with you guys. Lol. That shit would be so fucking funny.
THIS is a great video! Love it! Please keep them coming. Dyneema is great stuff, for sure. We value your thoughts and appreciate the how-to. Can't wait for the next one.
I enjoyed the video. You explained things well, the edits and speed up made the video flow well. I also enjoyed the music choice. Thank you for the video.
Man, I’ve cutted it three times and it’ still too short!!! Just kidding, your’s two videos are excellent !!! The rigging on my vessel will be done by myself, thanks to you and Rigging Doctor!
Thanks again for these rigging vids. I am a tree climber and never spliced my own lines.Also a sailor looking for my next Hobie Cat or similar to it. Will rig it with dyneema if I can. Always stunning toes on front stays. No need for that! James. You might want to start going to boat shows and display your talents and teach and earn a living while doing so.
Good to see you switch. Have been on a boat that has 7yr old rigging with Dyneema and still good as new. Not for Zingaro but others Dyneema is replacing steel fast as the benifits of reduced weight and cost far out way any down sides. Like on steel shrouds you can use PVC to cover the line if concerned about UV but I haven't seen any reason to in the rigs on boats I've worked on that switch many years ago. Just protect any areas that rub. And dont let a monkey lose with a knife on board. I've seen it once luckily steel rigging though but boy that particular monkey would win a knife fight if its still around. Luckily knocked it overboard eith an oar made it drop the knife.
Ahahaha. Holy shit I seriously thought you guys were pulling my chain. That is pretty.... amazing! And scary as shit. HAHAHA. I can't stop laughing. You guys are crazy. How in holy hell did you convince the owner that it was a monkey from nowhere?? Jesus that is funny. I'm going to go read this to Kimmi. Thanks for the kudos, yes a lot of inexperience... But most of them are in the Bahamas or not far offshore, hopefully they can get off the boat... Much love man.
James, after watching this DIY video, and hearing you comment that the Dyneema will be stretched out and loosen by the next day, I have a thought that MAY help to speed up the stretching. When the fibers are dry, and do lock against themselves, after you get the length of the line made, how about soaking it in water to add a lubricant that will allow the fibers to slid against each other the first time you pull them down for the initial stretch? It may cut down on the number of times you need to tighten them up after the initial installation. BTW, I got my first design shirt and love it. I'll be getting the new version soon. Looking forward to the next vid of some sailing and adventures on the open waters.
Would it have been better to make those eyes with the Dyneema if figure of eight pattern?? Seems to me you will be placing an awful lot of stress on the whipping as they are. Is that even possible with Dyneema?
Next in the series should be how to BEST check the tension and make adjustments... And yea those thimble/toggles look like a good temporary measure but seems to have room for improvement. Youre brave to have sailed on 30 year old rigging lol
Outstanding!~ Really good tips. My new Tiki 38 has Dyneema and I have enough extra on board for some easy fixes underway. The dead eyes are great! Could you prestretch the dead-eye and frap it before installing it on the stay? Thanks so much for this
Definitely. Put them in a winch for a couple days. Tuning is harder with dyneenma, but you just have to pay attention to it more. Not a big deal, just add it to the list. I like to look at the mast bend every time I saiul anyway. Much love man
Excellent video! Good food for thought. Have you checked with your insurance company? Will they still insure the rigging if you do it or if it's synthetic rigging? Thanks for sharing. 😊⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵😊👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Good tuition,we call it multiplat splicing, keep the thimble in the eye splice immerse it in hot water then cold water to shrink the rope onto the thimble.
What is the reason for unbraiding the line at the 5 minute mark, braiding all the separate strands, then burying it? Couldn't you just do a locking brummel splice (i.e. a continuous loop) instead, then bury both ends?
Great video on working with Dyneema, and you are becoming a master of working with it. Some tips that may help other people, use a piece of cardboard, light colored as a surface to work it on when possible, as the contrast against it will help you see easier where to go. The other is a product called 303 AeroSpace Protectant, a UV inhibitor and overall protectant against pretty much everything! It will make a serpentine belt on a vehicle last from new to 30K to cracks showing..to 300k with no cracks, and even stops tires degradation completely. It isn't expensive either..well that is in the STates, and only wish I could get a couple gallons to you. Put in a simple spray bottle, and sprayed on those lines and the fittings etc, it would be just the ticket. Wish when you bought the 3/8" roll for the main rigging they could have gave to you in that light gray color of the smaller diameter, or even a white, as it does seem to do better in the sun, but I share the love of DYNEEMA, something I was skeptical myself of until I used it around the homestead. The weight reduction aspect cannot be overlooked either, as once you can hopefully sell your old rigging for scrap, or sell it anyway you can, that is a lot of top heavy weight off the boat. Hope this finds you well as always..and a great idea to put your young band self in as the musical interludes ;) oh and a link to the 303 www.amazon.com/303-Products-Aerospace-Protectant-Gallon/dp/B008H67X1I
Wow! add a link and it was $4X when I put it in, now it's $54.09..going to stop putting links in publicly for the stuff I use, and make people email for it ha ha
As far as ratios, if you are calculating size, then Dyneema can be 85% lighter but it is thicker. And strength, 30% stronger would have to be the same thickness? Great video, by the way. I am now subscribed.
One other thing; The tail length of a dyneema splice is set so as to meet if not exceed the break strength of the rope. Since the splice is a deformation (stress riser) making the tail longer increases the deformation with no gain in strength, likely the opposite.
ok so been a few months... whats your take on it so far? Have you had to retune the rig? I'm definitely a fan of the shrouds being synthetic, but for ease of adjustment a turnbuckle at the base seems like it would be a hell of a lot easier, especially if you routinely fine tune the rig for different conditions. As a racer, we adjust shrouds between day races as the wind goes up and down every 5 knots- takes about 5 to 10 minutes. Ya you'd have a bit of extra weight, but it would be down low. It looks like tuning the rig on all shrouds with the all fiber setup would take the better part of an hour untying and re tying all those lines. One suggestion to keep tabs on the shroud tension.. loos gauge is indispensable. I'm not sure how or if it has been used with the fiber braid rigging, but I'm sure it could be worked out to give a reliable reading so creep, temperature contraction/expansion and adjustment could be accurately monitored. Thanks for the vid, definitely something to consider.
Good questions. I had to retune 7 or 8 times to get the initial stretch out, this can be mitigated by purchasing the heat annealed versions of dyneema for more money. 5 minute tuning? That’s fast hermano. It takes me about 20-30 min to tune (but I’ve done it quite a few times now - it was an hour the first few), it would definitely be easier with a turnbuckle... but that is an option I’ve seen on synthetic shrouds. All in all, it’s not for you... it makes tuning a bitch, but I tune my rig twice a month, not twice a day. Lots of race boats use synthetic though, you could look up how they do it... as far as the gauge, I don’t think that would work on synthetic. I’ve never had one, just go by feel and mast bend, and have on the last 5 boats. Maybe I’ll get one and tinker with it. Got an old one I can mess with?
@@thelastpirate sorry.. don't have a loos gauge, I use on OPB! Ya the tuning with turnbuckles is expedited by having rig tune tables pre worked. You get the rig tuned at a base setting, usually at 10 kts wind at a pier in calm water. Then wind bands up and down tell how many turns on each turnbuckle you need to go up or down. And usually turnbuckles are of open style so instead of cotter pins you can make up velcro straps or a piece of line to keep the turnbuckles from turning on their own, so adjustment is fast. We keep tools in a pouch in the cockpit so we can grab em quickly between races. Ya I have seen turnbuckle/fiber connections on some boats... guess it depends on your application. A lot of the higher tech race guys get their shrouds set and rarely adjust em, but use a hydraulic ram at the mast base and shims to adjust for different conditions. Guess if you don't need to adjust often and get the stretch out then the all line setup without turnbuckles can be ok.
Unfortunately that's the only one that needs to be steel. Abrasion doesn't bode well. As far as I know... need to do more research on that one. good question,.
Great informative video. I haven't worked with it before...what are the little "hair" threads I see as you're making some of the knots ... such as around 15:00. Is that a sign of breakage? No problems with that?
i love this concept i have a prout quest and thought of using dyneema to replace the shrouds and aft stays but connect to the steal turnbuckles for ease of tennison adjustment and possibly reduce the variables in stretching is there a pro con to this ?
When you made the deadeye, I originally thought you were going to tuck the center through between the eyes. Seems like that would be stronger than whipping, but not sure if it could be done. Excellent video though! I learned a lot!
Hi, great instructional video. Even if you have ss rigging, this is a great temporary repair until you get into a marina that does have a rigging store. I was wondering if you could put a turnbuckle between the deadeye and the dyneema 1/8" so that you can adjust the tension by tightening the turnbuckle after a couple days of redoing the 1/8" line?
hats off to you for the singing, music, and great video on your synthetic replacement rigging! i have to confess after seeing the earlier party mode vids, and seeing these latest ones its as if your a different guy. it shows to go you, that people can be much deeper and more multifaceted than you could ever predict. your a super cool guy and another doff of the hat to your super cool girlfriend! much luck and a long sailing life to you sir....
you should make your soft shackles and things like that in your spare time and sell them online, I would order things from you guys. Oh and my T-shirt got here. Keep up the great work , Im shopping for a Catamaran daily looking for the right fit .
At 16:55, when making the whipping to seize together the "deadeye", why did you pull the working end all the way through? Aren't you supposed to pull it through only half way so that both ends of the whipping are pinched down by the round turns?
Do you have to use thimbles at the mast connection and chain plate connection? I thought a benefit of Dyneema was to avoid metal to metal contact. Instead of two dead eyes could it be a thimble one side and Dyneema loop the other?
Creep restistance is number one on my list for why I would not choose dyneema for standing rigging. Why not refit with staloks with extra wedges and have some extra steel cable on board? Big hassle tightening standing rigging all the time. I learned some really cool concepts here though! In a pinch you do what you have to do.
Weight, for one, plus once you get the hang of tuning your rig you start to fine tune it more often, rather than once or twice a year. Makes you pay attention to it more, I don’t think that’s a bad thing. I can see the downside for someone that just uses the boat once in a while, don’t want to spend your day off messing with the rig.
LIVE UPDATE: With a heavy heart we are reporting that Zingaro is shipwrecked. Find out more on Kickstarter:
www.kickstarter.com/projects/sailingzingaro/sailing-zingaro-season-two-of-the-web-series
Background music can only be tool or a perfect circle I don't know which it is but I can taste Maynard James Keenan
I am literally right there is zero doubt in my mind come on someone back me up on this anyone anyone
Speaking of tools these two green goof balls above me are scammers don't trust them speaking of things not to trust Maynard James Keenan don't trust him he's smarter than you the good music though no one else has instrumentals like that nobody
Little story about dynema. It`s produced in a small factory in the south of the netherlands. For my work i had a contract to dispose of the leftover strands en production failures. The first time we just dumped the dynema in a landfill.. The big caterpillar dozers that would work on the landfill stopped working that same day. The reason being that the dynema scraps would get wrapped around the tracks and stop them dead i. We are talking big d8 dozers here. I`m pretty sure it will hold up a mast. just keep checking your tension while it settles
My man, you are a fantastic tutor. GREAT job! I am now retired, but used to do this for a living, and you make it look so easy. Very important information delivered in simple, direct language. All the best. Your videos are always worth waiting for.
That was the best 45 minutes of my life in ages. I was mesmerized there for a bit. I can just imagine these are skills that just about every old time sailor HAD to know back in the 1700's to 1900's.
Every sailor should know how to splice the lines on his boat. Took me years to finally sit down and learn it. That's one of the best things about the boat, always another skill to learn.
If you are a book type, try and find a copy of "a young sea officer's sheet anchor" everything any one ever knew about rigging in one place. Dyneema is making all the old skills new again.
After your first video on dyneema I searched TH-cam for more information on rigging with dyneema. This is the most informative one I have seen, great job and thanks a lot! Definitely going to use it when I replace my rigging in October
Nice to see your appreciation of Dyneema as a DYI product! It is truly great for all kinds of uses on a boat. There are much better methods of cheaply connecting your rigging to pins. try a basket loupe going thru the thimble with each end on opposite ends of the clevis. Use big washers, inspect often. There is a high probability of failure in toggles used the way you are using them.
Was scrolling through to see if someone had addressed this. I suppose the creep issues can be dealt with if one wishes. Those double jaw toggles though would keep me awake at night. No surprise it was you John who brought this up. Sailing Zingaro, John is the man who wrote the book and defined the art of synthetic rigging. Soon, wire rigging will have been a blip in the history of rigging and we will have John Franta to thank....
If you use heat set Dyneema it doesn't creep nearly as much. Also a lot of people have been adding Stainless Turnbuckles that way after the initial mega creep you can fine tune easily. Love the vids!
Great video. I think you hit all the major points. Yea, you can have enough extra dyneema to re-rig the entire boat and you don't pay the weight penalty. I'm on a Pumpkin Chuckin team, American Chucker (search YT) and about 4 years ago, we changed our sling to dyneema with lower wind resistance, higher strength, flexability unmatched and we don't have any breakage as long as it is terminated with Fids properly. 3 years ago, we changed our stays for the throwing arm to dyneema. We still use steel where weight and cost make it sensible to use. Yea to Kimmi for correcting your English. I have to admit, I skipped toward the end to see if there was a non-technical but funny trailer... It is interesting to see the SVZ Tshirt/Stickers that peeps displayed. Nice.
Oh, if you watch some of our Pumpkin Chuckin videos, understand that we do it to raise money for charities. So we go for throwing a 10 lb. pumpkin to a maximum distance and breaking the machine was just the side affect of pushing the envelope. Dyneema reduced our breakage. We won second place with our 2nd machine in the World Pumkin Chuckin Championship. Last summer, before pumpkins were available, we threw a 16 lb bowling ball 3000 feet in testing with our 3rd and present Trebuchet!
It's nice to sea "Marlin-Spike seamanship" come full circle with modern age synthetic materials! This is an incredible video and I don't know why it's taken me so long to see it (thought I was up to date on them all....) Thanks James and Kimmi!! Sea Ya!
Dyneema rigging has been coming into wider use for a few years. Good to see a DIY system that performs the same, saves weight, costs less and replacement time is easy to determine. Neat splices, easy to follow instructions and a substantial improvement on steel! Well done.
I had never heard of Dyneema before today. That was a lot of work. There were some interesting comments below. Funny how when you learn something from someone, someone else may know more. Sailing is a lifetime of learning. Thanks for putting out a great video. I learned.
I know in Holland a lot of competitionsailors use dyneema. I'm not a competionsaylor, I did change my railing from steel 5mm to 3mm dyneema and with the left over I made soft shackles, after your 1st video, to replace steel shackles
Practical, powerful and professionally presented, FANTASTIC James and Kimmi!! 👌👌👌
Hey just wanted to say I am amazed by the simplicity and thoroughness of this video. I must admit I had you pictured as an egomaniac. These two videos have gained my respect in every way. Thank you. Will try to send some support your way. Fair winds. peace and luv from the fat bastard! You r living my dream brother.
Interesting. Can you be specific? I'd like to change that characteristic if I come off like that, I don't mean to. Glad you liked the vids though, more instructional stuff to come.
Loved the video, your excellent demonstration, explanation and 'can do' attitude. Just a note on your 28 yo stainless rigging - eek! I've been a pro skipper and yachtmaster instructor for over 20 years; when I teach people about the importance of preventative maintenance and boat safety (those things are linked), I use a phrase we all know to make my point - false economy. As cruisers we are always trying to stretch those boat bucks, but skimping on your rig is ill advised. Stainless wire (and associated fittings) are much cheaper than a new mast, torn sails, repairing a smashed coach roof & hatches and definitely not worth dying for ! Change that stainless wire at least every 10 years and constantly inspect the fittings for cracks, crevice corrosion, wear, etc. Also, it's a misconception that standing rigging on a boat moored 10 years and not sailed is not deteriorating- crevice corrosion acts whether sailing or not! When I buy a boat my first question is how old is the standing rigging - dismasting half way from Panama to Nuku Hiva is not gonna be fun!
Again, thanks for the vid. Much appreciated 😎
Great idea to use synthetic rigging, however using a thimble in a toggle is a bad idea. For one, the toggle will not be loaded evenly across the surface designed to take the load. Shock loading may find this weakness. In addition you will get a lot of stretch using regular dyneema. Heat set, pre-stretched dyneema is used for a reason, you will need to keep a very close eye on your mast while under way to ensure it is being held in column. Good luck. I do love your 'get it done' attitude, a fun channel, keep em coming.
agreed
I'm only a newbie so this may be a dumb question but wouldn't a loop swivel be better than a toggle?
I like the new trend in the channel!
James, great video! I'm a farmer in Kansas and I see other applications for the use of dyneema and the ways you used it. Really like the tutorial videos!
Although I do not sail I find the videos you make about the rigging terribly interesting. The knots, wraps, and connections I can use to a certain extent on land as I live in a 5th wheel camper and I have a need for things like that at times. They're also cool to show off with drinking beer with the guys. Stay safe!
This the Best Single video of rigging!!! Just awesome !!
Really high quality production! The audio and video detail is superb. Thanks, and I learned a lot. But, for the time it took you, the expert to splice the shroud and make and adjust the deadeye, I have replaced two of my own in SS using new wire and existing Norseman fittings. It is also apparent that frequent adjustment with deadeyes is also a bit of PIA compared to tightening a turnbuckle once a year.
Wow. Subscribed! Got my first marlinspike last week and working my way through Rigger’s Apprentice and now stumbled upon this. Can’t wait to see a part three.
Just wanted to thank you for the time and effort you put into this detailed tutorial. Well done!
Thank You! Getting our Hardin 45. Ready for a last cruise. For a year or two. This gave me something to concider.
Excellent video and demo for installing synthetic rigging. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
I saw a tutorial on dyneema rigging on Sailing Lady Africa. The pro spokesman who came on the show threaded the line through a long anti-chaffing shroud to prevent damage from using your rigging as handholds.
That's a lot of weight saved. I'll be following this for as long as you are on youtube. I might one day do this too.
Said it before Dyneema is great stuff , given a fair chance , job well done !
I'll start off by saying I'm a power boat ..so I don't care much about Rigging...I tired to watch the Rigging Doctor explain dyneema rigging and fell asleep...you did a great job. I stayed for the whole video.....
Nice splicing James, only suggestion I will make is to put a whipping on each splice, using a large sail needle to thread through the buried tails will insure that your splices will not loosen. We used 2" double braided nylon line going into three point moore for deep recovery operations and never had a splice failure holding a 170' boat in 50 knot winds.
That’s basically only going to do anything while unloaded, isn’t it? And standing rigging should never be unloaded.
That said, it probably won’t hurt either.
Great tutorial there Captain, that imparts tonnes of information. I like Dyneema now. It's ease of splicing is great and it's cost sounds like less $$, and less parts, than a steel rig. Thanks.
You killed it again ! That was so easy to follow. You are the best ! I can't wait to get my first roll of 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 . What a wonderful material. This synthetic braid is revolutionizing sailing right to the core. Thanks again ! and Kimmie did a wonderful job with the camera work and editing also. You two make a great team ! Cheers.
You must have clipped on at the top if you were up there for an hour , LOL
Yeah I have a harness I made. I should do a video about that actually...
James, I personnaly dont like the assembly shown at 20:05. The bottom piece was designed to take only perpendicular loads and the thimble is rounded shaped. You need to fill in the "gap" in between otherwise, you may have some problems.The pressure from the thimble is going to come at a 45° angle on each sides of the bottom piece and, as the boat is rocking, you are going to experience some metal fatigue and it's eventually going to break! I'm no engineer but I know what Im talking about. You schoul ask a real Engineer about this. In anyways, I love what you are doing! Take care all of You! +1.
agreed
Yeah, you're right, but that's all I've got at the moment, and those things are damn strong. I'll replace that piece with a basket strap when I can get them. It's hard to find hardware in remote areas of the world.
Maybe You can shape a piece of hard wood (with the grain going up) to fill in the gap?
That's a thought... That I can get. Thanks bro!
Agreed. I saw that happening and thought...uh-uh.....nope. I get that in remote places things aren't always available or can be very expensive, so I get that it's a temporary measure. A shaped hardwood spacer that is suggested below will remove the point loads on the assembly and spread them across a wider bearing surface would probably be good for many miles with occasional inspection. I would actually shape them so that the grain runs perpendicular to the load direction so that any splitting along the grain (which tends to happen) will then held together by the load, as opposed to the risk of separating the wooden piece into smaller bits under load. Make a half-handful of spares when you shape the first wooden ones and you'll probably never need them. Nice job for the rest of the video. Well done!
Cool, educational and empowering. Reminds of why Dhows in east Africa are still doing duty. Simple to Fix with available materials.
Nice rigging. I was in coast guard and know a lot, but you really show it! Good Job!
Great video thank you! I would recommend always keeping the dyneema around the Dead Eye Thimbles tight so the Thimbles don't pop out. They are way way too loose!
Awesome information and your thoughts are logical and well presented. Thank you
Didn't realize you could re-rig with dyneema. thanks for the tips.
I think what you done has given me good replacements. Safe sailing y'all 2.
"Always good to have some spare hose on the boat" (25:21),sounds like good advice!
Baaa Haaaa I was wondering if I was the only one that liked that line...
That's funny, I really wanted to do a funny parody on that, where I dress as a pimp and sell the idea of having extra "hose" on youyr boat. Kimmi vetoed it, but I'm right the with you guys. Lol. That shit would be so fucking funny.
Natural fibers where good enough for hundreds of year. Synthetics will be fine for the future. Big fan of synthetics. Outstanding video.
THIS is a great video! Love it! Please keep them coming. Dyneema is great stuff, for sure. We value your thoughts and appreciate the how-to. Can't wait for the next one.
excellent description , really great.
I enjoyed the video. You explained things well, the edits and speed up made the video flow well. I also enjoyed the music choice. Thank you for the video.
Looks neat, but as you say time will really be the big test of the Dyneema, keep the video's coming.
Great video.
I really like the way you explain the true pros and cons of both systems.
Good on you.
Cheers from Ontario Canada.🍻
I always enjoy it when you show that you actually know what you are doing ;-)
Super interesting video. Thank you for making and sharing it. Going to keep all this in mind for own rigging at a later stage. Well done!
Great video mate. I saw Plucky from Sailing into Freedom also did this. Clearly the way ahead.
Think you have found your calling. You are a awesome rigging instructor.
Man, I’ve cutted it three times and it’ still too short!!! Just kidding, your’s two videos are excellent !!! The rigging on my vessel will be done by myself, thanks to you and Rigging Doctor!
Thanks again for these rigging vids. I am a tree climber and never spliced my own lines.Also a sailor looking for my next Hobie Cat or similar to it. Will rig it with dyneema if I can. Always stunning toes on front stays. No need for that! James. You might want to start going to boat shows and display your talents and teach and earn a living while doing so.
Good to see you switch. Have been on a boat that has 7yr old rigging with Dyneema and still good as new.
Not for Zingaro but others Dyneema is replacing steel fast as the benifits of reduced weight and cost far out way any down sides. Like on steel shrouds you can use PVC to cover the line if concerned about UV but I haven't seen any reason to in the rigs on boats I've worked on that switch many years ago. Just protect any areas that rub. And dont let a monkey lose with a knife on board. I've seen it once luckily steel rigging though but boy that particular monkey would win a knife fight if its still around. Luckily knocked it overboard eith an oar made it drop the knife.
Hahaha. You're kidding, right? How the shit did he get a knife? Lol. That's amazing. Much love.
Ahahaha. Holy shit I seriously thought you guys were pulling my chain. That is pretty.... amazing! And scary as shit. HAHAHA. I can't stop laughing. You guys are crazy. How in holy hell did you convince the owner that it was a monkey from nowhere?? Jesus that is funny. I'm going to go read this to Kimmi. Thanks for the kudos, yes a lot of inexperience... But most of them are in the Bahamas or not far offshore, hopefully they can get off the boat... Much love man.
James, after watching this DIY video, and hearing you comment that the Dyneema will be stretched out and loosen by the next day, I have a thought that MAY help to speed up the stretching. When the fibers are dry, and do lock against themselves, after you get the length of the line made, how about soaking it in water to add a lubricant that will allow the fibers to slid against each other the first time you pull them down for the initial stretch? It may cut down on the number of times you need to tighten them up after the initial installation.
BTW, I got my first design shirt and love it. I'll be getting the new version soon.
Looking forward to the next vid of some sailing and adventures on the open waters.
Dude your the man! Yes I agree more and more boats will have it.
Thanks James, really liked this video, too bad about the wreck and loss of all that good work.
This is a great video. Please do a review video in a year or so. Thanks for sharing.
Great video. Can you replace steel shrouds one at a time? Would that put more stress on the remaining steel shrouds if you do?
Would it have been better to make those eyes with the Dyneema if figure of eight pattern?? Seems to me you will be placing an awful lot of stress on the whipping as they are. Is that even possible with Dyneema?
Next in the series should be how to BEST check the tension and make adjustments... And yea those thimble/toggles look like a good temporary measure but seems to have room for improvement. Youre brave to have sailed on 30 year old rigging lol
Yes and yes. Asolutely correct. Nicely done.
agreed
Outstanding!~ Really good tips. My new Tiki 38 has Dyneema and I have enough extra on board for some easy fixes underway. The dead eyes are great! Could you prestretch the dead-eye and frap it before installing it on the stay? Thanks so much for this
Definitely. Put them in a winch for a couple days. Tuning is harder with dyneenma, but you just have to pay attention to it more. Not a big deal, just add it to the list. I like to look at the mast bend every time I saiul anyway. Much love man
Excellent video! Good food for thought. Have you checked with your insurance company? Will they still insure the rigging if you do it or if it's synthetic rigging? Thanks for sharing. 😊⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵😊👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Good tuition,we call it multiplat splicing, keep the thimble in the eye splice immerse it in hot water then cold water to shrink the rope onto the thimble.
Thanks you answered my question about UV protection
OLD SKOOL!!!! WAY COOL!
Thats one of the most interesting video's I have ever watched on youtube, cheers.
Awesome job James! I'm saving these Dyneema vids as a tutorial, never know when I might need to rerig a shroud or stay!
What is the reason for unbraiding the line at the 5 minute mark, braiding all the separate strands, then burying it? Couldn't you just do a locking brummel splice (i.e. a continuous loop) instead, then bury both ends?
Great video on working with Dyneema, and you are becoming a master of working with it. Some tips that may help other people, use a piece of cardboard, light colored as a surface to work it on when possible, as the contrast against it will help you see easier where to go. The other is a product called 303 AeroSpace Protectant, a UV inhibitor and overall protectant against pretty much everything! It will make a serpentine belt on a vehicle last from new to 30K to cracks showing..to 300k with no cracks, and even stops tires degradation completely. It isn't expensive either..well that is in the STates, and only wish I could get a couple gallons to you. Put in a simple spray bottle, and sprayed on those lines and the fittings etc, it would be just the ticket. Wish when you bought the 3/8" roll for the main rigging they could have gave to you in that light gray color of the smaller diameter, or even a white, as it does seem to do better in the sun, but I share the love of DYNEEMA, something I was skeptical myself of until I used it around the homestead. The weight reduction aspect cannot be overlooked either, as once you can hopefully sell your old rigging for scrap, or sell it anyway you can, that is a lot of top heavy weight off the boat. Hope this finds you well as always..and a great idea to put your young band self in as the musical interludes ;) oh and a link to the 303 www.amazon.com/303-Products-Aerospace-Protectant-Gallon/dp/B008H67X1I
Wow! add a link and it was $4X when I put it in, now it's $54.09..going to stop putting links in publicly for the stuff I use, and make people email for it ha ha
Great video. Nice to learn something new. Thanks.
No bosun's chair or climbing rig!? At least having a seat would free both hands, or did you tie yourself on somehow when you were on top of the mast?
Don't have either. Just hang on. If I need to get out to the speakers I'll make a harness out of rope but it's uncomfortable as hell.
Thanks for sharing! Awesome job, get ur done I always say. Love your videos...
Greetings from Galveston Texas
As far as ratios, if you are calculating size, then Dyneema can be 85% lighter but it is thicker. And strength, 30% stronger would have to be the same thickness? Great video, by the way. I am now subscribed.
One other thing; The tail length of a dyneema splice is set so as to meet if not exceed the break strength of the rope. Since the splice is a deformation (stress riser) making the tail longer increases the deformation with no gain in strength, likely the opposite.
ok so been a few months... whats your take on it so far? Have you had to retune the rig? I'm definitely a fan of the shrouds being synthetic, but for ease of adjustment a turnbuckle at the base seems like it would be a hell of a lot easier, especially if you routinely fine tune the rig for different conditions. As a racer, we adjust shrouds between day races as the wind goes up and down every 5 knots- takes about 5 to 10 minutes. Ya you'd have a bit of extra weight, but it would be down low. It looks like tuning the rig on all shrouds with the all fiber setup would take the better part of an hour untying and re tying all those lines. One suggestion to keep tabs on the shroud tension.. loos gauge is indispensable. I'm not sure how or if it has been used with the fiber braid rigging, but I'm sure it could be worked out to give a reliable reading so creep, temperature contraction/expansion and adjustment could be accurately monitored.
Thanks for the vid, definitely something to consider.
Good questions. I had to retune 7 or 8 times to get the initial stretch out, this can be mitigated by purchasing the heat annealed versions of dyneema for more money. 5 minute tuning? That’s fast hermano. It takes me about 20-30 min to tune (but I’ve done it quite a few times now - it was an hour the first few), it would definitely be easier with a turnbuckle... but that is an option I’ve seen on synthetic shrouds. All in all, it’s not for you... it makes tuning a bitch, but I tune my rig twice a month, not twice a day. Lots of race boats use synthetic though, you could look up how they do it... as far as the gauge, I don’t think that would work on synthetic. I’ve never had one, just go by feel and mast bend, and have on the last 5 boats. Maybe I’ll get one and tinker with it. Got an old one I can mess with?
@@thelastpirate
sorry.. don't have a loos gauge, I use on OPB! Ya the tuning with turnbuckles is expedited by having rig tune tables pre worked. You get the rig tuned at a base setting, usually at 10 kts wind at a pier in calm water. Then wind bands up and down tell how many turns on each turnbuckle you need to go up or down. And usually turnbuckles are of open style so instead of cotter pins you can make up velcro straps or a piece of line to keep the turnbuckles from turning on their own, so adjustment is fast. We keep tools in a pouch in the cockpit so we can grab em quickly between races. Ya I have seen turnbuckle/fiber connections on some boats... guess it depends on your application. A lot of the higher tech race guys get their shrouds set and rarely adjust em, but use a hydraulic ram at the mast base and shims to adjust for different conditions. Guess if you don't need to adjust often and get the stretch out then the all line setup without turnbuckles can be ok.
Awesome instruction! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Nice video! Very informative! Thank you for sharing it!
outstanding rope work!
This was a great set of videos! Thanks
brilliant thank you for this, I need to replace my rigging and going to look into this
can you explain how you would do a headstay that has a roller furling foil over it using dyneema? Great video by the way. I really enjoyed watching it
Unfortunately that's the only one that needs to be steel. Abrasion doesn't bode well. As far as I know... need to do more research on that one. good question,.
Great informative video. I haven't worked with it before...what are the little "hair" threads I see as you're making some of the knots ... such as around 15:00. Is that a sign of breakage? No problems with that?
Well Played M'man.. Awesome and interesting video for me. Thank You!
i love this concept i have a prout quest and thought of using dyneema to replace the shrouds and aft stays but connect to the steal turnbuckles for ease of tennison adjustment and possibly reduce the variables in stretching is there a pro con to this ?
When you made the deadeye, I originally thought you were going to tuck the center through between the eyes. Seems like that would be stronger than whipping, but not sure if it could be done. Excellent video though! I learned a lot!
Zingaro the sailing master. I don’t know we’re you learn to work this rigging line like you do but it’s awesome. Great job.
Awsome video love your sailing hacks.
Hi
What type of dyneema line you used for the stays. Regular SK75 / SK 79, or something specific for stays
Hi, great instructional video. Even if you have ss rigging, this is a great temporary repair until you get into a marina that does have a rigging store. I was wondering if you could put a turnbuckle between the deadeye and the dyneema 1/8" so that you can adjust the tension by tightening the turnbuckle after a couple days of redoing the 1/8" line?
hats off to you for the singing, music, and great video on your synthetic replacement rigging! i have to confess after seeing the earlier party mode vids, and seeing these latest ones its as if your a different guy. it shows to go you, that people can be much deeper and more multifaceted than you could ever predict. your a super cool guy and another doff of the hat to your super cool girlfriend! much luck and a long sailing life to you sir....
Awesome comment. Thanks John. Much love my friend.
you should make your soft shackles and things like that in your spare time and sell them online, I would order things from you guys. Oh and my T-shirt got here. Keep up the great work , Im shopping for a Catamaran daily looking for the right fit .
At 16:55, when making the whipping to seize together the "deadeye", why did you pull the working end all the way through? Aren't you supposed to pull it through only half way so that both ends of the whipping are pinched down by the round turns?
Love the video. Song is sung by Maynard James Keenan... Keep up the good work!
That' quite the compliment Dave, but that's me singing. This is an old band of mine. Glad you liked.
Sailing Zingaro that's awesome! You sound great, dude! Love it! Wow!
Facinating video mate really enjoyed it. You will probably put a lot of riggers out of work LOL.
Hey James what do you think about only replacing shrouds and leaving the head stay (furler) and the back stay As swaged ss cable?
Do you have to use thimbles at the mast connection and chain plate connection? I thought a benefit of Dyneema was to avoid metal to metal contact. Instead of two dead eyes could it be a thimble one side and Dyneema loop the other?
Great job guy's, given me something to think about
Creep restistance is number one on my list for why I would not choose dyneema for standing rigging. Why not refit with staloks with extra wedges and have some extra steel cable on board? Big hassle tightening standing rigging all the time. I learned some really cool concepts here though! In a pinch you do what you have to do.
Weight, for one, plus once you get the hang of tuning your rig you start to fine tune it more often, rather than once or twice a year. Makes you pay attention to it more, I don’t think that’s a bad thing. I can see the downside for someone that just uses the boat once in a while, don’t want to spend your day off messing with the rig.
Awesomely informational! Thanks for doing that!