I just did a large ikea kitchen - most useful tool was a laser level. You have to find high and low spots in your floor and ceiling or you’ll run in to trouble with mouldings and toe kick gaps. It makes levelling at the same height on different walls a no brainer. I would say it’s a must for rail systems. Grinder to cut the suspension rail too
Thanks for the great video. Manual screwdrivers for the win. Takes more time but your screws will go in a lot more accurately with virtually no risk of damaging the board. Also, go easy with the nails. Pretty easy to drive the nails with a small hammer. I've never needed to use PVA glue with these products but if you do then "less is more" is the way to go. Cheers from the Land Down Under.
Glad to see someone doing this. Their directions say the rail needs a screw every 12” minimum. I’ve put together a lot of IKEA stuff and these cabinets have the worst overall directions so far.
DIY home owner here and I suggest a power drill for screwing the screws in. Set it at medium torque (6-8) and you'll be good. Save your hands and wrist!
Nice video Doug, since you also like star drive fasteners I would suggest Cabinet Screws for mounting the rail. They've got that holding power you like!
I saw the girls in the returns section of our local Ikea, using a 365+ Hjalte egg turner to open the cartons. They all have one, it works really easily and leaves the carton undamaged in case you want to return the item. REALLY handy, if there was a better tool for the purpose I think Ikea would have it? Well worth the $3.99 if you're doing a kitchen. They're plastic and won't cut or scratch the contents.
Sue Madge that was a great tip! I just used a regular plastic spatula and it worked like a charm. I was able to open a large box in about one minute without tearing it to shreds. Thanks!
Hello, I did not find the studs, it is possible that the complete wall is built of concrete, should I use dowels / anchors to fix the rail? I´ll appreciate your comments.
The highest you can put the rail is 6/8" as per the instructions. This is approximately the height from the top of the cabinet clips to the top of the cabinets. You won't be able to mount the rail any higher because you will not be able to hang the cabinets without them hitting the ceiling. This means you'll have a small gap on top of your cabinets which you can fill in with Ikea's moulding or some other filler peice of your choosing.
No one ever explains the height issues with how close the rail can go to the ceiling, etc. Ever. And it would've been nice to learn what you did with that 'very' askew wall cabinet against the side wall.
Lisa All that information is found in the assembly instructions that you can find on IKEA’s website. But here’s a shortened version: You’ve got to deduct room for ceiling clearance in order to get that hook above the railing to attach them properly, so the cabinets will never sit flush with your ceiling, you have to add crown moulding to cover that gap. If you attach the rail too close to the ceiling it would literally be impossible to get the hook onto the rail. And then you also have to consider that the rail and hook aren’t level with each other at the tip top of the back of the wall cabinet, the hook must be slightly higher than the rail to for it to fit together, so you must also deduct the measurement for the location of how far down the hook on the cabinet goes, which hooks on to the rail system on the wall, so that when it’s finished it sits exactly at either 80” or 90” depending on which height wall cabinets you’re installing, either 30” or 40” wall cabinets will determine that.
Doug Brown At the beginning of your video the cabinet to the far left is was out of whack with the wall. I think she was asking how you addressed that issue. But then again, you did say that it was only a dry fit so that might have come together, more aligned, after it was securely installed.
Doug Brown Just finished a full bathroom remodel and built my first custom shower with niches & a bench!! Still in the planning and ordering phase for my upcoming kitchen remodel. Love watching videos like yours to get any and all tips & tricks I can gather up in preparation for the job. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. It’s priceless 😉
I really want one of these Ikea cabinets! But I have no idea how to mount it on my wall. I have steel stud framing behind a sheetrock wall that's double walled. I wonder if I should hire someone, lol.
It's pretty easy, steel framing just makes it a more work. I'd suggest buying screws made for steel, they make special screws that bite into steel. You are probably 24 oc so you'll also want hilti toggler bolts. You need 2 pieces of 1x4 lumber the length of where you are hanging cabinets one that the rail attaches to and one for the bottom of the cabinets so they sit flush. Find your beams using a magnet(home depot or amazon sells a simple magnetic stud finder), mark them with pencil, put pilot holes for the outermost beams, use a bead of liquid nails on the back with the 4 screws and hang the 1x4 where the rail needs to go. Use 2 screws per beam, drill pilot holes on the 1x4 and put the rest of the screws in. In the middle of each beam drill a hole dead center and use a hilti toggler with washer. Screw the bottom 1x4 or 1x2 where the bottom of the cabinets will be, 1 screw per beam is enough(always drill pilot holes). Once you have the rail up hang as usual. You can just hang the ikea rail with the special screws and the hilti togglers but it isn't as strong as i'd like, I have done both in my condo and with the wood rail it is so much stronger(you could probably hang 500 pounds off of it without breaking). It takes some time but 2 people can hang cabinets no problem if they are a little bit handy. If you hire someone make sure they do it the right way, a lot of times people use the wrong(i.e cheap) hardware and it will seem fine and then 2 yrs later your cabinet is sagging/falling off the wall
Hi Doug, did you find that there is a gap between he wall and the back of the cabinet which is visible from one side where there is no wall beside the cabinet? How do you address that so it looks properly finished? Also, how do you secure the bottom of the cabinet to the wall since it is only hanging from the rail?
Wherever there’s an exposed end cabinet, a cover panel gets screwed onto it giving it a finished look. It will go from your painted wall usually out to the face of your cabinet door. The cover panels are inexpensive and are 5/8” thick by whatever size/color is required.
Would like to see how the cover panels go on the end and between the long and short cabinets (on the first set of cabinets.) Do the cover panels have to be cut to fit? Do you have to cut the cover panel for where the rail is on the cover pieces that go between the inside cabinets? Do the cover panels go all the way to the ceiling?
Donna- You can get them pre-cut to width and height. I cut them to fit because I want them to be level with the front of the doors. If you can wait my next video will show this....db
Excellent question. I don't know what the shear strength of those cams and a couple of dowels are, especially going into, what is that, 1/2 or 5/8 inch PB, but I wouldn't put a lot of weight on the bottom of that cab. When I made them, after attaching them to the wall, you could do pull ups with them. That Ikea cab would rip apart.
great video @doug! I put my cabinets up on a level rail but the bottoms of the cabinets seem to be just a little bit off. How much do i need to center/align them before I screw them together?
Doug, have you done a base cabinet install video? Mainly how to install feet and getting level and also attaching cabinets to each other. Thanks great vid!
So i have a question how do i use the screw directions for hanging the cabinet rather than just the little gray lock? There are directions for using screws that seem to be way more secure.
Ive put my first cabinet up but find that the top of the cabinet is 1/4 off the wall as the back of the cabinet is straight and the suspension rail is 1/4" thick. This leaves the cabinet hanging forward from the top.
Doug, i am in the middle of installing Ikea kitchen and vanity. My contractor can not finish the job. I really need someone's help finish the job so that my family can move into the new house. I live in Scottsdale AZ. Do you know anyone in this area who can help me with the installation? I greatly appreciate any help you and anyone here who can provide.
This is an old post, so I hope you found someone reliable. But as an electrician with only 5-star reviews on Yelp, I can tell you that a contractor with my kind of rating lives in FEAR of a 4-star review. Hire the best you can afford and we will serve you as if our reputation depends on it. :) (I live in Philly so I am not looking for work her,e I'm just offering advice)
The smartest thing this guy said was to use heavy screws to mount the cabs. He said, 'a couple of hundred pounds.' My kitchen cabinets have a ton of dishes in them. If the cabs came off the wall, you're dead.
It was a little flimsier than I expected. I had to add a 2x2 piece of wood to the bottom on the rear side in order to stabilize it better th-cam.com/users/postUgkxXTh-lz-8W6GcB219vTLp27-MxbZYObBX . It is also starting to bow a little at the outer wall ( I've had it up for about 6 months), I've already had a shelf tumble down because of the bow and the fact that the little shelf brackets are quite short. I went out to home depot and got some longer ones so that the shelves don't tumble down again. Overall, it looks very nice for the price and it holds a lot ( I use it as a pantry). I am very satisfied with my purchase. I just strongly suggest reinforcing it before putting it up.
Well that's why you have a manual smart guy. These cabinets come in different heights and sizes.. ur gonna assume his word and start drilling without checking ur manual? Lmao
My studs are at 16" c/c. Since IKEA specs say their hanging bracket has to be supported at 12" o/c, my work-around was to support the bracket with 3" #10 screws in each stud, and with 3/16" x 3" Toggle Bolts (drywall hangers) midway between studs, thereby supporting the IKEA bracket at 8" o/c. I also placed a few extra screws into the drywall at each stud, since drywall installations are usually not intended to support cabinets. The alternative solution would have been to install blocking, or a ledger. The above system would work for 16" and 24" stud spacing. However, keep in mind that the support of the drywall must be enhanced if it is expected to also carry several hundred pounds of cabinetry. Stud loading should also be a consideration, but a typical 2x4 wall should have no problem supporting these cabinets, if the studs are adequately braced. Again, additional blocking might be a consideration. My project is complete, cabinets are loaded, and so far, none have come down. :-)
I noticed this video is copyrighted. Seriously?! Why would anyone steal this video. The instructor, after leveling the rail, it slips and he doesn’t go back to make sure it’s still level. Maybe he didn’t notice. 😂. Also, he is standing between the camera and the rail he is showing you how to hang. Get a buddy to hold the camera next time.
You call this instructional video?? Didn't learn anything more than from fricking Ikea assembly manual that is just BS, they show how not do it and no explanation what is correct way.
A little past 8 minutes to fasten the brace/mounting bracket - does ikea sell the screws used to mount the brace or do I request it at a hardware store for two hundred pounds of filled cabinet? Thanks!
I just did a large ikea kitchen - most useful tool was a laser level. You have to find high and low spots in your floor and ceiling or you’ll run in to trouble with mouldings and toe kick gaps. It makes levelling at the same height on different walls a no brainer. I would say it’s a must for rail systems. Grinder to cut the suspension rail too
Thanks for the great video. Manual screwdrivers for the win. Takes more time but your screws will go in a lot more accurately with virtually no risk of damaging the board. Also, go easy with the nails. Pretty easy to drive the nails with a small hammer. I've never needed to use PVA glue with these products but if you do then "less is more" is the way to go. Cheers from the Land Down Under.
Glad to see someone doing this. Their directions say the rail needs a screw every 12” minimum. I’ve put together a lot of IKEA stuff and these cabinets have the worst overall directions so far.
Thanks bud
Thanks for this! I can't believe how hard it was to find a video of the actual rail installation.
No problem....Glad it helped
Neil Fallon hnmkkuo
does the cabinet actually hang on the rail till you can put the plastic clip that you quarter turn?
Yes it does - then the clip locks it down.
No problem thanks Neil
Very helpful and straightforward tutorial Doug! much obliged! so refreshing to hear from a guy in the trades.
Jandmyates- Thank you for the kind words!
DIY home owner here and I suggest a power drill for screwing the screws in. Set it at medium torque (6-8) and you'll be good. Save your hands and wrist!
Use a plastic spatula to open boxes saves time and your hands won't damage the cabinets
Good point..Thanks for the tip!
Not sure what the point is if you are not going to show what you are doing.
Nice video Doug, since you also like star drive fasteners I would suggest Cabinet Screws for mounting the rail. They've got that holding power you like!
Great Video. Is the wall mounting rail sold separately?
Exactly what I needed.
Thanks.
Thanks Ryan
This is VERY helpful - thank you !!!
Thanks JP
Best part is from 10:27 to 10:52!
Yes very well edited
So far from the ceiling down do you install rail? Is the rail mounted flush to the top of cabinet?
I saw the girls in the returns section of our local Ikea, using a 365+ Hjalte egg turner to open the cartons. They all have one, it works really easily and leaves the carton undamaged in case you want to return the item. REALLY handy, if there was a better tool for the purpose I think Ikea would have it? Well worth the $3.99 if you're doing a kitchen. They're plastic and won't cut or scratch the contents.
Sue Madge that was a great tip! I just used a regular plastic spatula and it worked like a charm. I was able to open a large box in about one minute without tearing it to shreds. Thanks!
Hello, I did not find the studs, it is possible that the complete wall is built of concrete, should I use dowels / anchors to fix the rail? I´ll appreciate your comments.
Excellent job!
Thanks John
Thanks John
Thanks
I need to put cabinets as close to the top as possible?
Minum distance from top of cabinet to ceiling is 5/8", you can make 1/8" by sliding the cabinet to rail from side, if you have enough room on side.
Do you know How high to install the rail for 90 inch cabinets
2 1/2 inches minimum from the ceiling to bottom of rail
Where to attach the last grey little plastic nut? Where will it fit?
Our cabinets are ceiling height, how far from the ceiling would the level line be to install cabinets with the two cabinet brackets?
The highest you can put the rail is 6/8" as per the instructions. This is approximately the height from the top of the cabinet clips to the top of the cabinets. You won't be able to mount the rail any higher because you will not be able to hang the cabinets without them hitting the ceiling. This means you'll have a small gap on top of your cabinets which you can fill in with Ikea's moulding or some other filler peice of your choosing.
How do you remove the wall cabinet?
No one ever explains the height issues with how close the rail can go to the ceiling, etc. Ever.
And it would've been nice to learn what you did with that 'very' askew wall cabinet against the side wall.
Don't understand your question??
Lisa All that information is found in the assembly instructions that you can find on IKEA’s website.
But here’s a shortened version: You’ve got to deduct room for ceiling clearance in order to get that hook above the railing to attach them properly, so the cabinets will never sit flush with your ceiling, you have to add crown moulding to cover that gap. If you attach the rail too close to the ceiling it would literally be impossible to get the hook onto the rail. And then you also have to consider that the rail and hook aren’t level with each other at the tip top of the back of the wall cabinet, the hook must be slightly higher than the rail to for it to fit together, so you must also deduct the measurement for the location of how far down the hook on the cabinet goes, which hooks on to the rail system on the wall, so that when it’s finished it sits exactly at either 80” or 90” depending on which height wall cabinets you’re installing, either 30” or 40” wall cabinets will determine that.
Doug Brown At the beginning of your video the cabinet to the far left is was out of whack with the wall. I think she was asking how you addressed that issue. But then again, you did say that it was only a dry fit so that might have come together, more aligned, after it was securely installed.
It was only a dry fit- nothing was secured on the back wall when I made the video....Hows your project going?@@NativeNYerChicHK
Doug Brown Just finished a full bathroom remodel and built my first custom shower with niches & a bench!! Still in the planning and ordering phase for my upcoming kitchen remodel. Love watching videos like yours to get any and all tips & tricks I can gather up in preparation for the job. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. It’s priceless 😉
Just use a butter knife, and push with the dull side to rip the sides of the box open. Works like a champ.
Thanks Johnny
heehee..don't you mean Captain Jack? ;)
I really want one of these Ikea cabinets! But I have no idea how to mount it on my wall. I have steel stud framing behind a sheetrock wall that's double walled. I wonder if I should hire someone, lol.
It's pretty easy, steel framing just makes it a more work. I'd suggest buying screws made for steel, they make special screws that bite into steel. You are probably 24 oc so you'll also want hilti toggler bolts. You need 2 pieces of 1x4 lumber the length of where you are hanging cabinets one that the rail attaches to and one for the bottom of the cabinets so they sit flush. Find your beams using a magnet(home depot or amazon sells a simple magnetic stud finder), mark them with pencil, put pilot holes for the outermost beams, use a bead of liquid nails on the back with the 4 screws and hang the 1x4 where the rail needs to go. Use 2 screws per beam, drill pilot holes on the 1x4 and put the rest of the screws in. In the middle of each beam drill a hole dead center and use a hilti toggler with washer. Screw the bottom 1x4 or 1x2 where the bottom of the cabinets will be, 1 screw per beam is enough(always drill pilot holes). Once you have the rail up hang as usual. You can just hang the ikea rail with the special screws and the hilti togglers but it isn't as strong as i'd like, I have done both in my condo and with the wood rail it is so much stronger(you could probably hang 500 pounds off of it without breaking). It takes some time but 2 people can hang cabinets no problem if they are a little bit handy. If you hire someone make sure they do it the right way, a lot of times people use the wrong(i.e cheap) hardware and it will seem fine and then 2 yrs later your cabinet is sagging/falling off the wall
Don't do it. They are a night mare
Hi Doug, did you find that there is a gap between he wall and the back of the cabinet which is visible from one side where there is no wall beside the cabinet? How do you address that so it looks properly finished?
Also, how do you secure the bottom of the cabinet to the wall since it is only hanging from the rail?
Wherever there’s an exposed end cabinet, a cover panel gets screwed onto it giving it a finished look. It will go from your painted wall usually out to the face of your cabinet door. The cover panels are inexpensive and are 5/8” thick by whatever size/color is required.
Would like to see how the cover panels go on the end and between the long and short cabinets (on the first set of cabinets.) Do the cover panels have to be cut to fit? Do you have to cut the cover panel for where the rail is on the cover pieces that go between the inside cabinets? Do the cover panels go all the way to the ceiling?
Donna- You can get them pre-cut to width and height. I cut them to fit because I want them to be level with the front of the doors. If you can wait my next video will show this....db
Does the cabinets not come with a rail? I bought a sektion and can't find the rail..
You buy them separate
@@dougbrown1797 where can I get the rail ? IKEA?
No you buy the rails separately at IKEA
Are those 42" cabinets? Earlier you say the bottom should be at 54"+3/4 for flooring and at 7:13 you say 94 3/4" for top rail
They're 40 inch cabinets.
What if you can’t find the studs ☹️
Christiana you have to find them....Simple as that
Hi, how much weight can you put on each cabinet?
Excellent question. I don't know what the shear strength of those cams and a couple of dowels are, especially going into, what is that, 1/2 or 5/8 inch PB, but I wouldn't put a lot of weight on the bottom of that cab. When I made them, after attaching them to the wall, you could do pull ups with them. That Ikea cab would rip apart.
Ooooops. It's 3/4, but I ain't hanging those, regardless. Those mounting brackets in the upper corners ain't enough for me.
At 3:47, how did you get the bottom on when the cam lock bolts were coming in from the sides?
Go back to the instructions- put it together in order
Gread vid production if youve done it before. otherwise yes can be confusing to a newbie as i was.
very helpful thanks!
No problem glad it helped
Would be a more useful video if you could actual see what you are doing - move the camera out/away or get someone to help you. Otherwise quite useful.
Doug, do the fasteners that you attached to the rail need to match the brackets on the cabinet?
The brackets on the cabinets hook onto the rails -thats how they are supported
Can these ikea cabinets be installed with no back wall to attach them all I would have is the ceiling?
Keep reading notes...Yes...Just don't try this unless you have a good skill set
great video @doug! I put my cabinets up on a level rail but the bottoms of the cabinets seem to be just a little bit off. How much do i need to center/align them before I screw them together?
Do you have a video showing how to install the cover panels on end and filler strips?
Next one will
Please hurry, I need your help. Your videos for the putting the cabinets really helped.
Doug, have you done a base cabinet install video? Mainly how to install feet and getting level and also attaching cabinets to each other. Thanks great vid!
Yes it will be out shortly
@@dougbrown1797 3 years later ...
How long and what size were the screws you used to attach the suspension bracket to the wall?
3" db
Any fixing needed at the bottom of the wall cabinets? or just hang it and secure it at the top?
So i have a question how do i use the screw directions for hanging the cabinet rather than just the little gray lock? There are directions for using screws that seem to be way more secure.
He skipped right past that most critical part. Annoying!
Hi Doug, with this new rail system, how close can you hang them to the ceiling?
3/4"
Ikea says 3/4 inches but folks who install say the bottom of the rail must be a minimum of 2 1/2 inches from the ceiling
Ive put my first cabinet up but find that the top of the cabinet is 1/4 off the wall as the back of the cabinet is straight and the suspension rail is 1/4" thick. This leaves the cabinet hanging forward from the top.
Did you install the (2) white brackets on the back of the cabinet? That should make it even.........
I figured that out. I missed that step. I knew it was something stupid and that was it.
Doug, i am in the middle of installing Ikea kitchen and vanity. My contractor can not finish the job. I really need someone's help finish the job so that my family can move into the new house. I live in Scottsdale AZ. Do you know anyone in this area who can help me with the installation? I greatly appreciate any help you and anyone here who can provide.
This is an old post, so I hope you found someone reliable. But as an electrician with only 5-star reviews on Yelp, I can tell you that a contractor with my kind of rating lives in FEAR of a 4-star review. Hire the best you can afford and we will serve you as if our reputation depends on it. :)
(I live in Philly so I am not looking for work her,e I'm just offering advice)
The smartest thing this guy said was to use heavy screws to mount the cabs. He said, 'a couple of hundred pounds.' My kitchen cabinets have a ton of dishes in them. If the cabs came off the wall, you're dead.
It was a little flimsier than I expected. I had to add a 2x2 piece of wood to the bottom on the rear side in order to stabilize it better th-cam.com/users/postUgkxXTh-lz-8W6GcB219vTLp27-MxbZYObBX . It is also starting to bow a little at the outer wall ( I've had it up for about 6 months), I've already had a shelf tumble down because of the bow and the fact that the little shelf brackets are quite short. I went out to home depot and got some longer ones so that the shelves don't tumble down again. Overall, it looks very nice for the price and it holds a lot ( I use it as a pantry). I am very satisfied with my purchase. I just strongly suggest reinforcing it before putting it up.
I came to this video looking for proper use of the rail / bracket system - unfortunately you record your back on this part.
Thanks for the video, but is it possible to install these cabinets to a Sofit with no back wall? Hi
Anythings possible- but you need to customize them and be careful of the weight when fully loaded
Yes but read notes below- you will have to know what you are doing...not easy
you cut out the most important part ...
This is how NOT to film a how-to video. He thinks we can see what he sees :))
Square the cabinet before you nail the back panel!!! Otherwise you’re reveals on your doors will never lineup and your countertop won’t be level
Totally put the first cabinet together incorrectly! He had to bend open the sides in order to get that last piece in.
Where are you? Can you come help me install some cabinets? :-)
No where is it clear where you mount the bar. You didn't say but it looks like you put the top of the bar at the 94"
So that's what I'll do.
Well that's why you have a manual smart guy. These cabinets come in different heights and sizes.. ur gonna assume his word and start drilling without checking ur manual? Lmao
Yeah. He set up his camera and didn't check the field of view.
IKEA's instructions state maximum spacing of screws for the SEKTION rail is 12" o/c.
yeah, but then it wouldn't be going into the studs...
My studs are at 16" c/c. Since IKEA specs say their hanging bracket has to be supported at 12" o/c, my work-around was to support the bracket with 3" #10 screws in each stud, and with 3/16" x 3" Toggle Bolts (drywall hangers) midway between studs, thereby supporting the IKEA bracket at 8" o/c. I also placed a few extra screws into the drywall at each stud, since drywall installations are usually not intended to support cabinets. The alternative solution would have been to install blocking, or a ledger. The above system would work for 16" and 24" stud spacing. However, keep in mind that the support of the drywall must be enhanced if it is expected to also carry several hundred pounds of cabinetry. Stud loading should also be a consideration, but a typical 2x4 wall should have no problem supporting these cabinets, if the studs are adequately braced. Again, additional blocking might be a consideration. My project is complete, cabinets are loaded, and so far, none have come down. :-)
The first thing he drilled in was out of picture.
Please don't rush to make a video if you don't know what you are doing. It would be better if you learn first then make a video. Thank you!
You can't see what he is doing. Most of what he does is out of the camera's view. And then there is his body blocking what he does.
👍
Thanks
I noticed this video is copyrighted. Seriously?! Why would anyone steal this video. The instructor, after leveling the rail, it slips and he doesn’t go back to make sure it’s still level. Maybe he didn’t notice. 😂. Also, he is standing between the camera and the rail he is showing you how to hang. Get a buddy to hold the camera next time.
hallo hallo anybody there are anybody saying something hallo
You call this instructional video?? Didn't learn anything more than from fricking Ikea assembly manual that is just BS, they show how not do it and no explanation what is correct way.
thank you for contributing Mr. Happy
get a better mic or a lapel mic...
A little past 8 minutes to fasten the brace/mounting bracket - does ikea sell the screws used to mount the brace or do I request it at a hardware store for two hundred pounds of filled cabinet? Thanks!