Thanks Dave. I appreciate the comment. Maybe someday. This was supposed to be a secondary channel where I posted nonsense that wasn't good enough for my other channel, haha. However, it has now become my main channel and has outgrown my original channel.
I had a general idea of how these in-line "clicky clacky" pumps worked, but seeing the insides was super interesting. Some people don't care about these details. Me? I've spent my entire adult life just hoovering-up little tidbits. Because whoever dies with the most knowledge in their head wins, right? :)
LOL... That's a good life goal to have. My ability to fix and build things comes largely from understanding how things work, and a large part of that, is taking them apart and poking inside. Even if you can't practically fix something, you can still learn a LOT from taking that thing apart.
That was interesting. I've been wondering how these little pumps work, particularly since a lot of information about these things says they should be mounted at an angle to work properly. Having seen how the hardened metal piston slides in the brass piece and is effectively lubricated by the diesel fuel I can imagine that the angle isn't all that important other than to purge air. The outlet of my pump is uphill and has been working fine for 4 years. Thanks for all your videos. I've been an avid watcher for over a year from Lincoln, UK.
I've been saying this about the angle of the pump for a few years. I didn't know the exact design, but I did know they were basically a solenoid / electromagnetic driven plunger pump ... That's a mouthful.
My family Christmas pastime when the roads got slick was to drive down to the grocery store and watch cars crash. One of the entrances was a steep hill. There were 3 other entrances with no hill, but nobody could figure that puzzle out. This is very interesting, thanks! I've seen a few drawings of the pump innards, but wasn't able to visualize it like I can here. I'm pretty sure the type of fuel you use doesn't matter, it doesn't need extra "lubrication". There are *so, so many* myths surrounding the CDH. I got banned from a FB group for trying to dispel obvious BS. I got a 24hr ban for some inexplicable reason, even though I was in agreement with the mod who didn't like what I was saying. When I came back and pointed out that what he was complaining about was actually the _first_ thing I said, he banned me. He banned me for pointing out that I was in total agreement with him. Some people don't even belong in charge of their own lives.
I felt pretty bad for this guy. Just driving along minding his business and crunch ... at least wheels and suspension linkages... Probably more. I agree... I can't believe it's taken me this long to cut one apart ! They make these pumps / heaters that also run on gasoline... so yeah, I'm assuming they don't need diesel to lube them. Lol... I have been off Facebook for a few years now, and it's one of the best things I've ever done. I think some people are better suited to deal with it, but for me it was very toxic.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Yeah, I was younger so I got a sadistic kick out of hearing the crunch, but I feel for him too. Our cars are such a vital necessity and huge expense, a wreck can really ruin things for you. Yes, it was great to see the pump innards, and to watch your projects evolve. I know it takes a lot of extra time and effort to film and edit things, and I'm sure I speak for everyone when I say I truly appreciate it!
I think it’s crazy how ingenious the pump design is. I challenge everybody to come up with a new pump design that is both better, and globally adopted. All the rest of the engine design is done.
That's pretty cool engineering I wouldn't be surprised why these things cost a thousand dollars from Eberspacher decades ago. This video exceeded my expectations hehe
Haha... I wasn't sure what I'd find, but this is pretty neat. Not much to go wrong, but it does need to be super precise. Yeah, you always need to touch it to see if it's hot, right? haha. Unless it's glowing or smoking. How else would you know?
I have a question. Last winter I asked a question and you kindly answered me. You said your extensive testing ( and your testing certainly is, no doubt) showed that on my chinese diesel heater ( Vevor) the hottest setting for the combustion chamber was on level 5 to use to burn off any carbon built up from running on low all night. I have been using level 5 to keep it clean after every run overnight on low. So far, this has worked well and I appreciate your telling me this. But, on one of your latest videos you answered a commenter telling him to run his heater on high for a few hours and that would clean the carbon from his combustion chamber. This confused me, as I am easily confused. I looked through and watched many of your videos and have not located the testing you did about level 5 being the hottest due to fan speed vs fuel input. I do not doubt you are correct as my heater has been fine with me doing this run on level 5 for 10 minutes prior to every shutdown after a 10-17 hour runs on low. I just would like to confirm this is still correct and you did not discover something different in a later video I missed. Please keep up your excellent work on these heaters and, you have saved all of us out here hundreds and hundreds of dollars by doing your experiments and reporting the results. I have been on the road full time in my van for 1.5 years now and this is my 2nd winter using my Vevor. I love it and, thanks to you, I know a heck of a lot more about it. PS After seeing this video, I ordered a spare pump to have on hand just in case.
Hello again. I think that there must be some confusion about what I said 🤔 I have done testing that shows that the burn chamber does not run hotter on the highest setting, whatever that setting may be. Some have scales from 1-6 and some have scales from 1-10. So 5 can either be half way or almost max. This is because the air rushing in has a cooling effect, and the only way to offset this, is to add an excessive amount of fuel. An excessive amount of fuel is what causes carbon and CO, so at an ideal AFR, parts of the burn chamber will run cooler at the MAX setting vs half. I can't see myself telling someone to run their heater on high to clean carbon out of the chamber. If the heater was flooded with liquid fuel, this could be an exception. You could put the heater into plateau mode (less fuel) and put it on the highest setting to burn up the excess fuel, or just run it on high to cause the fuel to flash off. More BTU /KW passing through the heater don't necessarily mean higher temperatures, but it can clean up unburnt fuel. Heat alone is not a good solution for burning carbon out of your chamber, and not a good indication that your heater is running clean. A CO monitor is how a clean burn can be determined, if you are concerned about it. Your heater SHOULD be tuned so that it never produces carbon, and this has very little to do with heat, and much more to do with air fuel ratio. If you have no way to adjust the air fuel ratio, there's not much you can do, practically. I have a heater that makes a LOT of CO at the MAX setting, so keeping it there would be bad. It can be difficult to explain, because temperature and heat energy are not the same thing, the temperature of the heat exchanger is not directly linked to the temperature of the burn chamber, and a heater that is running really hot (heat exchanger reading) can either be burning way too much fuel or having combustion outside of the burn tube. The testing that I did, when I found the highest temperature, was not in search of the highest temperature, but when I was experimenting, trying to bring the temperature of the chamber up (to burn waste oil) This was not a specific test, but information gathered as a byproduct of another test. I hope this response wasn't too long. If you can share the comment where I said to run the heater on high, maybe I did say something wrong, or maybe there's more to it. Either way, if you depend on your heater, I suggest a CO meter so that you can test your exhaust. Ideally 0 is what you want, most seem to make 14ppm without any issues at all, and if you have over 20, that is a cause for concern / inspection.
@loweredexpectations4927 Hey, thank you for the detailed response. My vevor with auto plateau mode ( to 18,ooo ft) has 1-10 heat levels. I can only run it on low or it will overheat as my hose from outside my van to inside, is too long. It runs at 205C to 210C most days when it is below freezing outside. When I dhut down, I go out and removed the hose from the heater then run for 5-10 minutes on level 5. It has always started up just fine so, I figure yor advice is working well. Icwill try to licate that comment and let you know. Thanks again for your response.
❤ Is there a way to open the cylinder and change the chamber volume making a thread on the head? I'm actually doing some experience with the 16ml pump on a 3kw heater (same size of 5 and 8kw). My tiny house can be heated with the 2kw as well but it is more noisy than the bigger size. With vegetable waste oil it works cleaner but I would like to try to get more excess air to try and get perfection at a low pace. Great video ❤
I wouldn't say that there isn't a way, but not a practical way. The plastic base for the electromagnet windings is molded in place over the ends of the pump. WIth a 3D printer and a lathe (and lots of time) you could use some of the components from one of these pumps to build another one. It will be much easier and cheaper to buy a controller that grants you access to an engineering menu. This allows you to set the air fuel ratio by adjusting the pump hz and fan speed, independently. Do not just assume that more air will make for a clean burn. Use a CO meter (carbon monoxide meter) to check the CO levels in your exhaust gases. More air can cause serious problems.
Yeah, very cool. Incredible that they can produce these for under $20 retail, on places like Amazon... and much less if you look around. I'd like to pull one of the more expensive ones apart and see if there is any noticeable difference. I suspect the extra money is for consistency and quality control.
Yeah... I think so. The trick then would be putting it back together, haha. Good point tho.. I just realized in the video I said "move the position of the inlet hole" As long as the piston doesn't bottom out, then you are 100% correct.
I had guessed due to the screen wick type endinginside the burner...the pump must be the "injector". thaks for sharing..now we all know not to add any old pump. Has to be a diesel heater version.
I'm not sure, but I don't think so. I was under the impression that they used pressure pulses from the inlet or exhaust. Some engines may have a plunger style pump.
I have considered this and chatted with others in the comments about it. I may tackle that someday. The main hurdle would be building a system that allowed you to use several fuel pumps, as one would not be nearly enough. It can be done, and like I said, I may get into that at some point. It would be awesome to have the old Vevor bluetooth controller on my burner.
It will work, the issue is that they do not move much volume. Practically speaking, they can only really output enough oil to make about 6kw (20,000 btu)
@loweredexpectations4927 20k BTU is pretty good for a small fire U.O.B. is a small wood stove conversation. Could double up (run two or 3 pumps) for low med and high fire. These used to cost around $20 bucks or less but hard to say what one would run now (or Wish/Temu China) direct for 3 or 4 bucks. Then we can run it off a half wave bridge rectification on AC or do a PWM controller 🤔
@@markmatt9174 I have been considering using diesel heater controls to run my new waste oil burner, water heater. The "problem" is, that if you hook two pumps up to most ECUs they will see the extra load as a fault, throw a code and shut down. My little burner consumes about 1.3 to 1.6 litres of oil per hour, so it would need at least 3 pumps. A viewer actually sent me a divise they made, called a Tweaker, that allows you to connect two pumps using (I think it's called) a pulse generator, so it can 100% be done, and would be pretty slick. Unfortunately, you can't run a PWM controller. PWM basically switches power on and off really fast to produce a smaller or higher voltage. These pumps need a pulse of 12V (ish). At a low setting, they get one pulse every second (for example) and on the high setting, they get 5 pulses a seconds. What would be really funny, but also impractical, is to use a PWM to control a motor with a cam on it, and the cam hit a switch that sent power to the pump. As you turn up the PWM, the motor would turn faster, the cam would hit the switch really fast and the pump would pump, haha.
@loweredexpectations4927 PWM controllers can by very nature control the pulsewidth from 1 pulse on/off over a varied range. They can be fast or slow for most part. Cab also use the controller to fire SSR which runs then multiple pumps. I do controls build panels for the most part on all sorts of industrial equipment.
@@markmatt9174 Yeah... It's right there in the name eh. I had the (apparently incorrect) assumption that PWM was terminology for devices that specifically varied pulse width to control voltage, as I think I said earlier. Thanks for taking the time to explain that. I worked for a scale and controls company for a short while, but did most of my work on scales. We did some PLC stuff, but I was never very fond of it. I wired a PID controller into an old oven for curing carbon fibre components, but I'm much more comfortable with mechanical things. I have seen pulse generators on amazon and have been tempted to get one to play with. I feel like it's probably pretty simple, but I always talk myself out of looking into how one would take the signal form a ECU pump output, and have another pulse generator multiply that signal, to run multiple pumps. I think a diesel heater ECU would fault out if it were .... hmmm. I just thought. I could probably trigger a SSR with the original ECU, with the original pump plugged in, and run as many pumps as I want 🤔 Thoughts ?
that crashed car was limping. bet thats at least a new set of rims + tires and an alignment. more likely + wishbones and prolly steering rack... ouch 🤐
Interesting. Do you know what engine is on your JD? Most Briggs, Kawasaki and Kohler engines use a diaphragm pump. Some use a mechanical, but if your pump looks like this I'm guessing it's fuel injected ? This would not flow enough for your tractor. They max out at about half a litre per hour. That's only about 8 horsepower.
Would ❤to shoot down the newest ads saying these have brushless motors now ?? with two wires 😳😔 every brushless motor I ve seen have 3wire delta ac input. What a bunch of lies. Almost every Amazon ad has 8.3kw output with 75mm outlet 😳but they re getting real cheap now 89$ for Bluetooth version 5-8kw as usual
I dislike this sort of marketing (false advertising). Having a bad day, Kevin? What really annoys me about all of these silly false claims, is that 99% of them make NO difference to the operation of your heater. They say it has a brushless motor, because they know people will see those words, assume that means it's better, and buy one. Companies should be held accountable for their lies, but also, as consumers, we bare some of the responsibility, because we speak / vote with our money. A company tells lies and sells a product - The job of the company is to sell products, so as long as they don't have consequences that = the money they make, they just see it as profit. Ten million dollars worth of profit, and a one million dollar fine, from a corporations standpoint, is just nine million dollars profit. You can NOT buy a 8kw diesel heater. They are not capable of consuming enough fuel and air to make 8kw (800 ml of diesel per hour) To do this, they would need a complete redesign with a much large heat exchanger, inlet and exhaust. (or other major modifications) That being said EVERY manufacturer sells what they call an 8kw heater.... why is that ? That's because, at some point, companies made 2 and 5 kw heaters. Then, one company made a heater, that made 5kw, but called it an 8kw heater.... and people bought it. Now, if you are a company, and you don't' offer a 8kw heater, you are losing huge amounts of sales, so you also label one of your heaters as an 8kw. The reward is the sales, and the punishment was nonexistent. I have a Maxpeedingrods (amazon) 8kw heater with the large outlet, and it is NOT 8kw ... even though it is NOT 8kw, the amount of CO it makes at full heat is off the charts ... it can't burn the fuel effectively, because there is too much.
By coincidence,I dismantled a brushless motor of a fan today ,from a central heating gas furnace,and it was a two wire stator,with 4 windings, although is did have a hall sensor,230volt dc motor,looked it up replacement fan motor was around 350euro. First time I came across such motor.
@@antonvisjes3519 You may know a million times more about this than I do, but I was thinking that there have been brushless motors around in many many things for decades, we just called them induction motors. Typically what we call "brushless motors" today are a specific type of brushless motor.
..These type of pumps have been manufactured for over a century..They are easier to manufacture than an I-phone, but none of us will ever manufacture one..Or fix one...Educational though..
"but none of us will ever manufacture one" Agreed. The level of precision required is up there. Not only the fit of the piston, but the placement of the fuel inlet holes and where the stroke bottoms out. When your displacement is .022ml any small error means significant change in volume.
@@loweredexpectations4927 And when they break, they are only $20 bucks or so, but that's the only option..Almost everything we rely on, we could never manufacture, the marvel of modern industrial civilization, while it lasts..
Not trying to criticize, but have you ever thought about using a lapel mic? Your voice is soft and muffled in the video. It doesn't detract from me watching, but sometimes it's tough to hear.
Thanks for the comment and suggestion. I have thought of a lapel mic, and I think they are a good idea. They do take considerable extra work, as your audio and video are separate. You need to find the audio that matches the video, and then match them up in editing. The following is meant to be an honest explanation and not me being upset. The reason for the audio being ... strange, in this video, is because I did voice over in my house, and I don't' have a studio. My bedroom / office / editing studio is above a roommate who works night shift and beside a roommate who works days, from home. I'm quite pleased with how it turned out because I had to record when there wasn't the clicking of dogs feet, a cat scratching at my door, coughing sounds from roommates or furnace noises in the background. I often use my garage for voice over or adding in clips, to keep the background noises the same etc... but that has its own set of challenges. What I really need is a crew of videographers and editors, haha. Maybe someday.
@@kevin34ct 👍 My buddy actually has a pretty decent mic setup and has offered me to use it. Audio is a pretty big deal, andI might get there some day, but yes, as far as I know, it all needs to be manually synced in the editing software. You also need to edit out the audio that your camera records, in some cases.
Certainly no offense intended,but,,, Take the pump apart but it cannot be put back together obviously. Not much to see and a total waste of time. they are $25 cheap junk,with zero concern for the tolerance of a precision pump.. Sorry but this one was weak.. After 10 years on you yube this is probably my fifth comment and the first negative one.. Buy the rebuildable pumps so you can have the satisfaction of seeing how it works and actually putting it back together working. That might be a little more satifying.
No offense taken. I do almost everything I do out of curiosity and understand that not everyone is as curious as I am. It has the potential to be a waste of time, but understanding how things work can often help with understanding other things, designing other things, diagnosis or repair. I learn most of what I know from tinkering with things. We are clearly different people. While I do get satisfaction from building things, it is rarely the end product that gives me a sense of achievement. I truly enjoy the tinkering. Not because of the outcome, but because of the tinkering. I have taught myself to make vacuum infused carbon fibre parts, built a form, mold and made engine mounts for my jetski, and used the mount for two years. I understand the satisfaction of figuring something out and completing a task, but I still love just cutting things apart. I can say with certainty, that I greatly appreciate and enjoy things that are made to be serviceable. A pump that was made to be serviced, and that could be taken apart, instead of cut apart, would make me very happy.
McLuckie is awesome. Seems like a great fellow. He also is confident enough that he edits very little, and just leaves most of his blunders in his videos.
You really should have about 50,000 subscribers!
Thanks Dave. I appreciate the comment. Maybe someday.
This was supposed to be a secondary channel where I posted nonsense that wasn't good enough for my other channel, haha. However, it has now become my main channel and has outgrown my original channel.
You should cut open one of those quiet fuel pump off of Amazon with the green plastic. Curious what makes them quieter inside.
I've had a few people request this. I've got one in my Amazon cart now.
I had a general idea of how these in-line "clicky clacky" pumps worked, but seeing the insides was super interesting. Some people don't care about these details. Me? I've spent my entire adult life just hoovering-up little tidbits. Because whoever dies with the most knowledge in their head wins, right? :)
LOL... That's a good life goal to have. My ability to fix and build things comes largely from understanding how things work, and a large part of that, is taking them apart and poking inside. Even if you can't practically fix something, you can still learn a LOT from taking that thing apart.
Agree 💯 !
That was interesting. I've been wondering how these little pumps work, particularly since a lot of information about these things says they should be mounted at an angle to work properly. Having seen how the hardened metal piston slides in the brass piece and is effectively lubricated by the diesel fuel I can imagine that the angle isn't all that important other than to purge air. The outlet of my pump is uphill and has been working fine for 4 years.
Thanks for all your videos. I've been an avid watcher for over a year from Lincoln, UK.
I've been saying this about the angle of the pump for a few years. I didn't know the exact design, but I did know they were basically a solenoid / electromagnetic driven plunger pump ... That's a mouthful.
@loweredexpectations4927 It would be more of a mouthful in German... all those words would be combined into one!
I have my diesel heater double filtered before the pump
It seems as though that is a good idea.
@loweredexpectations4927 it really is
My family Christmas pastime when the roads got slick was to drive down to the grocery store and watch cars crash. One of the entrances was a steep hill. There were 3 other entrances with no hill, but nobody could figure that puzzle out.
This is very interesting, thanks! I've seen a few drawings of the pump innards, but wasn't able to visualize it like I can here. I'm pretty sure the type of fuel you use doesn't matter, it doesn't need extra "lubrication". There are *so, so many* myths surrounding the CDH. I got banned from a FB group for trying to dispel obvious BS. I got a 24hr ban for some inexplicable reason, even though I was in agreement with the mod who didn't like what I was saying. When I came back and pointed out that what he was complaining about was actually the _first_ thing I said, he banned me. He banned me for pointing out that I was in total agreement with him. Some people don't even belong in charge of their own lives.
I felt pretty bad for this guy. Just driving along minding his business and crunch ... at least wheels and suspension linkages... Probably more.
I agree... I can't believe it's taken me this long to cut one apart ! They make these pumps / heaters that also run on gasoline... so yeah, I'm assuming they don't need diesel to lube them.
Lol... I have been off Facebook for a few years now, and it's one of the best things I've ever done. I think some people are better suited to deal with it, but for me it was very toxic.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Yeah, I was younger so I got a sadistic kick out of hearing the crunch, but I feel for him too. Our cars are such a vital necessity and huge expense, a wreck can really ruin things for you.
Yes, it was great to see the pump innards, and to watch your projects evolve. I know it takes a lot of extra time and effort to film and edit things, and I'm sure I speak for everyone when I say I truly appreciate it!
Agree 💯
Hell yeah! Always wondered what was in the clicky clackies!
... and now we know ! Thanks for the comment !
It's crazy how simple those pumps are. Another great video! Now I want to see what's in a "quiet" pump.
That would be interesting. Maybe I'll purchase one and cut it apart for my viewers.
I think it’s crazy how ingenious the pump design is. I challenge everybody to come up with a new pump design that is both better, and globally adopted. All the rest of the engine design is done.
@@dwalsh3469 Yeah... it really is one of those things that is hard to improve on.
That's pretty cool engineering I wouldn't be surprised why these things cost a thousand dollars from Eberspacher decades ago. This video exceeded my expectations hehe
Yeah, at some point, some clever engineers spent a lot of time perfecting these little units. Keep those expectations low, my friend.
Interesting stuff. Amazing how simple the pump is
Yes, very interesting.
Good stuff, I pictured a tapered piston in my head. I was wrong....lol
Yea I chuckled at the hot piece out of the chuck.
We've all done that :D
Haha... I wasn't sure what I'd find, but this is pretty neat. Not much to go wrong, but it does need to be super precise.
Yeah, you always need to touch it to see if it's hot, right? haha. Unless it's glowing or smoking. How else would you know?
Indeed, haha.
I have a question. Last winter I asked a question and you kindly answered me. You said your extensive testing ( and your testing certainly is, no doubt) showed that on my chinese diesel heater ( Vevor) the hottest setting for the combustion chamber was on level 5 to use to burn off any carbon built up from running on low all night. I have been using level 5 to keep it clean after every run overnight on low. So far, this has worked well and I appreciate your telling me this. But, on one of your latest videos you answered a commenter telling him to run his heater on high for a few hours and that would clean the carbon from his combustion chamber. This confused me, as I am easily confused. I looked through and watched many of your videos and have not located the testing you did about level 5 being the hottest due to fan speed vs fuel input. I do not doubt you are correct as my heater has been fine with me doing this run on level 5 for 10 minutes prior to every shutdown after a 10-17 hour runs on low. I just would like to confirm this is still correct and you did not discover something different in a later video I missed. Please keep up your excellent work on these heaters and, you have saved all of us out here hundreds and hundreds of dollars by doing your experiments and reporting the results. I have been on the road full time in my van for 1.5 years now and this is my 2nd winter using my Vevor. I love it and, thanks to you, I know a heck of a lot more about it. PS After seeing this video, I ordered a spare pump to have on hand just in case.
Hello again.
I think that there must be some confusion about what I said 🤔
I have done testing that shows that the burn chamber does not run hotter on the highest setting, whatever that setting may be. Some have scales from 1-6 and some have scales from 1-10. So 5 can either be half way or almost max.
This is because the air rushing in has a cooling effect, and the only way to offset this, is to add an excessive amount of fuel. An excessive amount of fuel is what causes carbon and CO, so at an ideal AFR, parts of the burn chamber will run cooler at the MAX setting vs half.
I can't see myself telling someone to run their heater on high to clean carbon out of the chamber. If the heater was flooded with liquid fuel, this could be an exception. You could put the heater into plateau mode (less fuel) and put it on the highest setting to burn up the excess fuel, or just run it on high to cause the fuel to flash off. More BTU /KW passing through the heater don't necessarily mean higher temperatures, but it can clean up unburnt fuel.
Heat alone is not a good solution for burning carbon out of your chamber, and not a good indication that your heater is running clean. A CO monitor is how a clean burn can be determined, if you are concerned about it.
Your heater SHOULD be tuned so that it never produces carbon, and this has very little to do with heat, and much more to do with air fuel ratio. If you have no way to adjust the air fuel ratio, there's not much you can do, practically. I have a heater that makes a LOT of CO at the MAX setting, so keeping it there would be bad.
It can be difficult to explain, because temperature and heat energy are not the same thing, the temperature of the heat exchanger is not directly linked to the temperature of the burn chamber, and a heater that is running really hot (heat exchanger reading) can either be burning way too much fuel or having combustion outside of the burn tube.
The testing that I did, when I found the highest temperature, was not in search of the highest temperature, but when I was experimenting, trying to bring the temperature of the chamber up (to burn waste oil) This was not a specific test, but information gathered as a byproduct of another test.
I hope this response wasn't too long. If you can share the comment where I said to run the heater on high, maybe I did say something wrong, or maybe there's more to it. Either way, if you depend on your heater, I suggest a CO meter so that you can test your exhaust. Ideally 0 is what you want, most seem to make 14ppm without any issues at all, and if you have over 20, that is a cause for concern / inspection.
@loweredexpectations4927 Hey, thank you for the detailed response. My vevor with auto plateau mode ( to 18,ooo ft) has 1-10 heat levels. I can only run it on low or it will overheat as my hose from outside my van to inside, is too long. It runs at 205C to 210C most days when it is below freezing outside. When I dhut down, I go out and removed the hose from the heater then run for 5-10 minutes on level 5. It has always started up just fine so, I figure yor advice is working well. Icwill try to licate that comment and let you know. Thanks again for your response.
Happy New Year Joel 🤟🏻👑🤟🏻 garaaaaage!
Happy New Years to you, pal. Thanks !!
❤ Is there a way to open the cylinder and change the chamber volume making a thread on the head?
I'm actually doing some experience with the 16ml pump on a 3kw heater (same size of 5 and 8kw).
My tiny house can be heated with the 2kw as well but it is more noisy than the bigger size.
With vegetable waste oil it works cleaner but I would like to try to get more excess air to try and get perfection at a low pace.
Great video ❤
I wouldn't say that there isn't a way, but not a practical way. The plastic base for the electromagnet windings is molded in place over the ends of the pump.
WIth a 3D printer and a lathe (and lots of time) you could use some of the components from one of these pumps to build another one.
It will be much easier and cheaper to buy a controller that grants you access to an engineering menu. This allows you to set the air fuel ratio by adjusting the pump hz and fan speed, independently.
Do not just assume that more air will make for a clean burn. Use a CO meter (carbon monoxide meter) to check the CO levels in your exhaust gases. More air can cause serious problems.
Very interesting engineering at work. Nice job explaining it.
I agree. Very interesting. Thanks for your comment.
Quite a complicated little pump but 5:01 so simple they work awesome
Yeah, very cool. Incredible that they can produce these for under $20 retail, on places like Amazon... and much less if you look around.
I'd like to pull one of the more expensive ones apart and see if there is any noticeable difference. I suspect the extra money is for consistency and quality control.
Love a good tear down video. Now put it back together
How much JB Weld are you willing to donate 🤣
It looks like if you shorten the brass tube on the lathe that might increase the stroke volume of the pump.
Yeah... I think so. The trick then would be putting it back together, haha.
Good point tho.. I just realized in the video I said "move the position of the inlet hole" As long as the piston doesn't bottom out, then you are 100% correct.
I had guessed due to the screen wick type endinginside the burner...the pump must be the "injector". thaks for sharing..now we all know not to add any old pump. Has to be a diesel heater version.
Yeah, that's for sure. You need a "dosing pump" specifically.
Very interesting. Great video ❤
Thanks !
I'm the same way, got to take it apart to see how it works.
I've been this way my whole life.
Nice to see... 👌
Thanks!
Is the same fueling principle as the Cox 0.049 RC engine?
I'm not sure, but I don't think so. I was under the impression that they used pressure pulses from the inlet or exhaust. Some engines may have a plunger style pump.
@@loweredexpectations4927
They use crankcase depression pulses..most certainly not any form of plunger pump in a Cox .049 glow engine.
@@howardosborne8647 That's what I figured.
Could you somehow mount a chinenese heater control on your diy waste oil heater? That would be interesting actually
I have considered this and chatted with others in the comments about it. I may tackle that someday. The main hurdle would be building a system that allowed you to use several fuel pumps, as one would not be nearly enough.
It can be done, and like I said, I may get into that at some point. It would be awesome to have the old Vevor bluetooth controller on my burner.
@loweredexpectations4927 that remote with display and everything would make it really convinient
@@Seelengeburt I've ordered a few bits to make this happen, but not sure when / if I'll get around to it.
Interested in the ability of it to pump used oil for used oil drip burner? Have you tried one pump like this to pump cold 10w 30 perhaps?
It will work, the issue is that they do not move much volume. Practically speaking, they can only really output enough oil to make about 6kw (20,000 btu)
@loweredexpectations4927 20k BTU is pretty good for a small fire U.O.B. is a small wood stove conversation. Could double up (run two or 3 pumps) for low med and high fire. These used to cost around $20 bucks or less but hard to say what one would run now (or Wish/Temu China) direct for 3 or 4 bucks. Then we can run it off a half wave bridge rectification on AC or do a PWM controller 🤔
@@markmatt9174 I have been considering using diesel heater controls to run my new waste oil burner, water heater. The "problem" is, that if you hook two pumps up to most ECUs they will see the extra load as a fault, throw a code and shut down. My little burner consumes about 1.3 to 1.6 litres of oil per hour, so it would need at least 3 pumps.
A viewer actually sent me a divise they made, called a Tweaker, that allows you to connect two pumps using (I think it's called) a pulse generator, so it can 100% be done, and would be pretty slick.
Unfortunately, you can't run a PWM controller. PWM basically switches power on and off really fast to produce a smaller or higher voltage. These pumps need a pulse of 12V (ish). At a low setting, they get one pulse every second (for example) and on the high setting, they get 5 pulses a seconds.
What would be really funny, but also impractical, is to use a PWM to control a motor with a cam on it, and the cam hit a switch that sent power to the pump. As you turn up the PWM, the motor would turn faster, the cam would hit the switch really fast and the pump would pump, haha.
@loweredexpectations4927 PWM controllers can by very nature control the pulsewidth from 1 pulse on/off over a varied range. They can be fast or slow for most part.
Cab also use the controller to fire SSR which runs then multiple pumps.
I do controls build panels for the most part on all sorts of industrial equipment.
@@markmatt9174 Yeah... It's right there in the name eh. I had the (apparently incorrect) assumption that PWM was terminology for devices that specifically varied pulse width to control voltage, as I think I said earlier. Thanks for taking the time to explain that.
I worked for a scale and controls company for a short while, but did most of my work on scales. We did some PLC stuff, but I was never very fond of it.
I wired a PID controller into an old oven for curing carbon fibre components, but I'm much more comfortable with mechanical things. I have seen pulse generators on amazon and have been tempted to get one to play with.
I feel like it's probably pretty simple, but I always talk myself out of looking into how one would take the signal form a ECU pump output, and have another pulse generator multiply that signal, to run multiple pumps. I think a diesel heater ECU would fault out if it were .... hmmm. I just thought. I could probably trigger a SSR with the original ECU, with the original pump plugged in, and run as many pumps as I want 🤔 Thoughts ?
that crashed car was limping. bet thats at least a new set of rims + tires and an alignment.
more likely + wishbones and prolly steering rack... ouch 🤐
Yeah.... Hopefully the wishbones etc, took the brunt of it and it didn't damage the mounting points... they don't like hitting sideways like that.
Just like an espresso machine's, but with steel instead of nylon and HDPE.
Really, eh... interesting.
Hey man!..🙂
Hi everyone!
Hey there Martin !
@@loweredexpectations4927 keep on kicking Joel my man.
@@martinpanks992 🤟
neat ty
You're welcome.
Looks just like the chinese fuel pump i bought for my John deere garden tractor
Interesting. Do you know what engine is on your JD? Most Briggs, Kawasaki and Kohler engines use a diaphragm pump. Some use a mechanical, but if your pump looks like this I'm guessing it's fuel injected ?
This would not flow enough for your tractor. They max out at about half a litre per hour. That's only about 8 horsepower.
Would ❤to shoot down the newest ads saying these have brushless motors now ?? with two wires 😳😔 every brushless motor I ve seen have 3wire delta ac input. What a bunch of lies. Almost every Amazon ad has 8.3kw output with 75mm outlet 😳but they re getting real cheap now 89$ for Bluetooth version 5-8kw as usual
I dislike this sort of marketing (false advertising). Having a bad day, Kevin?
What really annoys me about all of these silly false claims, is that 99% of them make NO difference to the operation of your heater. They say it has a brushless motor, because they know people will see those words, assume that means it's better, and buy one.
Companies should be held accountable for their lies, but also, as consumers, we bare some of the responsibility, because we speak / vote with our money. A company tells lies and sells a product - The job of the company is to sell products, so as long as they don't have consequences that = the money they make, they just see it as profit. Ten million dollars worth of profit, and a one million dollar fine, from a corporations standpoint, is just nine million dollars profit.
You can NOT buy a 8kw diesel heater. They are not capable of consuming enough fuel and air to make 8kw (800 ml of diesel per hour) To do this, they would need a complete redesign with a much large heat exchanger, inlet and exhaust. (or other major modifications)
That being said EVERY manufacturer sells what they call an 8kw heater.... why is that ? That's because, at some point, companies made 2 and 5 kw heaters. Then, one company made a heater, that made 5kw, but called it an 8kw heater.... and people bought it. Now, if you are a company, and you don't' offer a 8kw heater, you are losing huge amounts of sales, so you also label one of your heaters as an 8kw.
The reward is the sales, and the punishment was nonexistent. I have a Maxpeedingrods (amazon) 8kw heater with the large outlet, and it is NOT 8kw ... even though it is NOT 8kw, the amount of CO it makes at full heat is off the charts ... it can't burn the fuel effectively, because there is too much.
By coincidence,I dismantled a brushless motor of a fan today ,from a central heating gas furnace,and it was a two wire stator,with 4 windings, although is did have a hall sensor,230volt dc motor,looked it up replacement fan motor was around 350euro. First time I came across such motor.
@@antonvisjes3519 You may know a million times more about this than I do, but I was thinking that there have been brushless motors around in many many things for decades, we just called them induction motors. Typically what we call "brushless motors" today are a specific type of brushless motor.
That Part seemed to be hot huh..😂 happens me all the time 😅 about 5:40
Haha... Yeah. It was toasty. When you are recording, it's even more tempting to grab things.
..These type of pumps have been manufactured for over a century..They are easier to manufacture than an I-phone, but none of us will ever manufacture one..Or fix one...Educational though..
"but none of us will ever manufacture one" Agreed. The level of precision required is up there. Not only the fit of the piston, but the placement of the fuel inlet holes and where the stroke bottoms out.
When your displacement is .022ml any small error means significant change in volume.
@@loweredexpectations4927 And when they break, they are only $20 bucks or so, but that's the only option..Almost everything we rely on, we could never manufacture, the marvel of modern industrial civilization, while it lasts..
Not trying to criticize, but have you ever thought about using a lapel mic? Your voice is soft and muffled in the video. It doesn't detract from me watching, but sometimes it's tough to hear.
Thanks for the comment and suggestion. I have thought of a lapel mic, and I think they are a good idea. They do take considerable extra work, as your audio and video are separate. You need to find the audio that matches the video, and then match them up in editing.
The following is meant to be an honest explanation and not me being upset.
The reason for the audio being ... strange, in this video, is because I did voice over in my house, and I don't' have a studio. My bedroom / office / editing studio is above a roommate who works night shift and beside a roommate who works days, from home.
I'm quite pleased with how it turned out because I had to record when there wasn't the clicking of dogs feet, a cat scratching at my door, coughing sounds from roommates or furnace noises in the background.
I often use my garage for voice over or adding in clips, to keep the background noises the same etc... but that has its own set of challenges. What I really need is a crew of videographers and editors, haha. Maybe someday.
@loweredexpectations4927 thanks for the honest reply. I truly understand. I didn't realize you had to sync up the audio.
@@kevin34ct 👍 My buddy actually has a pretty decent mic setup and has offered me to use it. Audio is a pretty big deal, andI might get there some day, but yes, as far as I know, it all needs to be manually synced in the editing software. You also need to edit out the audio that your camera records, in some cases.
Mark rober from wish
LOL... I'm not sure if I am honoured or insulted. Also not sure how that comparison is made.
@loweredexpectations4927 I mean there has gotta be alot worse comparisons out there 😁
@@slickrick343 LOL... I agree... Mark seems like an outstanding human being.
Certainly no offense intended,but,,, Take the pump apart but it cannot be put back together obviously. Not much to see and a total waste of time. they are $25 cheap junk,with zero concern for the tolerance of a precision pump.. Sorry but this one was weak.. After 10 years on you yube this is probably my fifth comment and the first negative one.. Buy the rebuildable pumps so you can have the satisfaction of seeing how it works and actually putting it back together working. That might be a little more satifying.
Mcluckie even tho kind of a goof is you tube's self proclaimed " expert" on these
No offense taken. I do almost everything I do out of curiosity and understand that not everyone is as curious as I am.
It has the potential to be a waste of time, but understanding how things work can often help with understanding other things, designing other things, diagnosis or repair. I learn most of what I know from tinkering with things.
We are clearly different people. While I do get satisfaction from building things, it is rarely the end product that gives me a sense of achievement. I truly enjoy the tinkering. Not because of the outcome, but because of the tinkering.
I have taught myself to make vacuum infused carbon fibre parts, built a form, mold and made engine mounts for my jetski, and used the mount for two years. I understand the satisfaction of figuring something out and completing a task, but I still love just cutting things apart.
I can say with certainty, that I greatly appreciate and enjoy things that are made to be serviceable. A pump that was made to be serviced, and that could be taken apart, instead of cut apart, would make me very happy.
McLuckie is awesome. Seems like a great fellow. He also is confident enough that he edits very little, and just leaves most of his blunders in his videos.
@@loweredexpectations4927I have also dismantled one of my old heater pumps just to see what was inside....just out of inquisitive interest.
I don't think it's a waste of time at all . To some people understanding how something works is valuable .