I was taught to use a short length of hose and blow out around the plugs to make sure there wasn't any dirt of debris to fall down inside the engine when pulling the spark plugs. I've never seen anyone in a video doing that, but that's how I was taught, especially with flat heads.
I had a 1948, the first year they were made. It was a real beast, hauled 8200 pounds of sand on it and still had free spring on the rear axel. When the original threw a piston rod I replaced it with a 327 chevy engine. It was insane due to 460 rear end gears. Also springs were 18 leaves in rear and 12 or 13 in front, it had no shock absorbers, didn’t need them it didn’t bounce . Finally had to let it go when the frame collapsed from rust , still miss it.
My buddy has a '63 with a chevy eng/trans in it and a $6k two tone paint job. Runs great. Looks great. I just bought a '51 with an old Buick engine, warner OD. Hope it runs as well as yours when I get it running at all. Hasn't been run in decades.
I just picked up a 56 willys with a 4.3 v6 turbo 400 np203 and Dana 44 front ford 9"rear. It's a fun truck. Pretty unique. Yours is alot cleaner and more complete than mine. Cool project.
Looking at the spark plugs the engine is running way too rich on the mixture, and there is a misfire which may be the low comp cylinder, which could be just the rings stuck. See if you can adjust the carburettor for weaker mixture, and take it for a run to get the enginr really warmed up and the rings may free off and stop the smoking. What a really bootiful old truck!! I love it! Your video was fine! Phil, UK
The "Hurricane" 134-cubic-inch in-line 4 cylinder engine is still in production today and it is often the entry-level power plant for the Chrysler-owned Jeep Wrangler line. The engine is still in use for the Grumman postal van. The Continental 226-cubic-inch L-head straight-6 as on this Willys was replaced by the Buick V6 after 1961.
I'm in love with Willys, I have a 1946 Jeepster and a 1960 Jeep... This Willys truck is wonderful... O Wol. I'm from Brazil it's hard to find this model aqui.
I would pull the valve pan cover and check valve adjustment on the #3 cylinder,one valve could be a little too tight,holding it off its seat just a little letting some compression escape through the Intake or Exhaust,may as well check them all while the cover is off,not an easy job with with that big intake/exhaust manifold in the way!
It’s on my “to-do” list, which unfortunately is long. It requires removing the intake and exhaust manifolds. I bought new gaskets for when the time comes.
Upgrading the electrical system from 6 to 12 volts and the engine from 4 cylinder to inline six are a welcomed alternative... And leaving the rest untouched
If you swap in a six, you might want to upgrade the radiator. Back in the day (early 70's) my brother had a 52 Willys Overland where they had installed the six. It was fine around town, but at 10,000 ft. and above, overheating was a constant problem. We learned to carry a 5 gal can of water to refill the radiator after it boiled over. The other issue was a leaking main seal -- replacement didn't help and I suspect the crank was out of round. Even after a rebuild, the transmission had a habit of popping out of first gear when Jeeping on steep slopes..
When compression testing the throttle must be open, nice truck by the way. They have a tendency for the valves to stick, checking the valve clearance might be a idea as well , you should run a valve saver fluid as well
I am an amateur, learning as I go. I tried another compression test with engine warmed up and throttle open. I got much lower numbers. Not sure why. I need to get a better compression tester. Never heard of valve saver. Had to look it up. Sort of a lead substitute?
Out the spark plugs spray cylinders generously PB blaster or equivalent. Using the spray stem shoot generous amounts of solvent toward the valve recess area in the heads. Cover the spark plug holes with towels to absorb splash. Rotate the Heck out of the engine for a minutes it so. This is to get the blaster drizzling down the valve train. Before rotating engine put marvel mystery into oil. Let set over night. Next day put spark plugs in start it. Let it Idle for half hour. Take it out of and run it hard for an hour. The sticky valve train should clean up nicely.
Best bet used 10w30 engine oil no synthetic type also 89 or 91 octane gas too always plus grey bottle STP Total Treatment fuel injection and carb cleaner in fuel every to also every month!
Man...all you garage photo jockeys...😉....ol junior needs this for lawn mowin payment on his 16th....that thing just needs driving....here, there, everywhere....except on the highways or cities.....nice rural drives...
If you have not done so, replace the pump diaphragm in the carb. When they start leaking the mixture will get really rich at idle and you'll have a hard time starting.
I did a full carb rebuild about a year ago. It is running much better after dropping the tank. It appears the little bit of bad fuel left in the tank was the issue. Could have been a lair amount of water in there also. I live in a fairly damp climate. I will use mainly non-ethanol fuel and fuel stabilizer in the winter going forward. Also, keep the tank full to avoid condensation.
Your spark plug of the Wllis green truck have been foul. The mixture of gasoline and air is too rich so it is too much fuel. You need to tighten the jet nozzle and lean gas. Thanks.
It was fairly cold the first time. I will do another compression test and leak down test at some point. It's running pretty good now though. So I am not in a rush.
I have had suggestions of cream colored or white wheels. They would pop for sure. Not sure why, but I like the black theme. My grill bars are black, bumpers, tailgate stencils, etc. Maybe some day I will change it.
Is that really a 2 piece windshield? Or did you just add the trim for the look? Introduction of 1 piece windshield was 59, and the later half of 60 was the full conversion to 1 piece.
It’s a two piece . If I recall, the window opening didn’t change when they went to one piece. The one piece is expensive, harder to find and uses a thicker rubber seal to fit in an opening designed for flat glass. For me, I also liked the look of the flat glass and had the required center trim from a parts cab.
Run the recommended Marvel's in the gas and run it at its highway speed for a tank and see if you have a ring just semi-stuck that Marvel can free up (sitting with bad fuel). Whatever you do, it is running way too rich. The float setting could be off due to sitting with ethanol fuel.
Highway speed, that's funny. Top speed is 50. Haha. It is running really well now with good gas. Still could be a little rich. I will likely try a few methods like the one you mentioned, to see I can free up the possibly stuck valve.
@@benkanobe7500 I will try that method once I have gone through everything for regular use and add insurance. I greatly appreciate everyone's suggestions.
Thanks for the compliment. I can’t put a price in all my blood, sweat, tears and bears that went into it though. My first and probably last full restoration.
You are both correct and incorrect. Around here it’s always pronounced as if it’s Willy’s. The companies name comes from a persons last name pronounced as Willis though.
@@benkanobe7500 It was 90 and the rest were 115-120. Came up to 115 wet. 'They' say wet won't effect valves. The valves are right there under the plug holes on this flat head. I would think the oil could seal up a valve too. IDK. I still have a number of things to try. I have been sidetracked swapping engines in my YJ Wrangler. Hopefully back on the Willys soon.
@@brokejeepnut1905 Go back to the fundamentals of how a piston engine works. Flat head or otherwise, and it become clear to you. Oil will not bring up the compression of a burnt or leaking valve (unless you put enough in to turn the cylinder in to a liquid pump).
Love the truck and color
I love the Willys. Here on my farm in South Africa lies a hood for a 1948 Willys overland wagon.
Anderson is a great helper! Awesome looking Jeep as well. Something about those old Willy's that just can not be duplicated
Great to see you getting the young lad involved. The best way to learn is to do, right!
Great-looking vehicle. I would love one.
Thanks.
I was taught to use a short length of hose and blow out around the plugs to make sure there wasn't any dirt of debris to fall down inside the engine when pulling the spark plugs. I've never seen anyone in a video doing that, but that's how I was taught, especially with flat heads.
I do it with an air hose, just didn't show it in the video. Those holes collect everything! Just like a belly button.... haha
I had a 1948, the first year they were made. It was a real beast, hauled 8200 pounds of sand on it and still had free spring on the rear axel. When the original threw a piston rod I replaced it with a 327 chevy engine. It was insane due to 460 rear end gears. Also springs were 18 leaves in rear and 12 or 13 in front, it had no shock absorbers, didn’t need them it didn’t bounce . Finally had to let it go when the frame collapsed from rust , still miss it.
My buddy has a '63 with a chevy eng/trans in it and a $6k two tone paint job. Runs great. Looks great.
I just bought a '51 with an old Buick engine, warner OD. Hope it runs as well as yours when I get it running at all. Hasn't been run in decades.
That pickup is actually in very good shape. Nice find!
I just picked up a 56 willys with a 4.3 v6 turbo 400 np203 and Dana 44 front ford 9"rear. It's a fun truck. Pretty unique. Yours is alot cleaner and more complete than mine. Cool project.
Looking at the spark plugs the engine is running way too rich on the mixture, and there is a misfire which may be the low comp cylinder, which could be just the rings stuck. See if you can adjust the carburettor for weaker mixture, and take it for a run to get the enginr really warmed up and the rings may free off and stop the smoking. What a really bootiful old truck!! I love it! Your video was fine!
Phil, UK
These are just neat-looking trucks.
The "Hurricane" 134-cubic-inch in-line 4 cylinder engine is still in production today and it is often the entry-level power plant for the Chrysler-owned Jeep Wrangler line. The engine is still in use for the Grumman postal van. The Continental 226-cubic-inch L-head straight-6 as on this Willys was replaced by the Buick V6 after 1961.
That's a really great specimen
Sweet old truck! 👍👍
I'm in love with Willys, I have a 1946 Jeepster and a 1960 Jeep... This Willys truck is wonderful... O Wol. I'm from Brazil it's hard to find this model aqui.
Thank you for the appreciation
I would love to find one just like this one.
That's my favorite truck right there That 1 really nice🍒👍
Thank you
hi there nice old jeep looks good john
we had one about that year on the farm, used to pull fully loaded kilbros wagons of corn out of the field with it. lo,lo it was a beast in 4wd!!
Check out the Willy’s hunting video from the 50’s on my channel. You might enjoy it.
amazing Jeep sir
Dang that is a pretty truck.
I would pull the valve pan cover and check valve adjustment on the #3 cylinder,one valve could be a little too tight,holding it off its seat just a little letting some compression escape through the Intake or Exhaust,may as well check them all while the cover is off,not an easy job with with that big intake/exhaust manifold in the way!
It’s on my “to-do” list, which unfortunately is long. It requires removing the intake and exhaust manifolds. I bought new gaskets for when the time comes.
@@brokejeepnut1905 Have to agree,it would be a lot easier to just pull the manifold!
REMINDS ME OF MY 20 GLADIATER
Willies sounds good to me.
I like it, I also like the other one, the station wagon
I would love to have a wagon also, with a modern drive train that I could take the whole family in. Maybe someday.....
Upgrading the electrical system from 6 to 12 volts and the engine from 4 cylinder to inline six are a welcomed alternative... And leaving the rest untouched
If you swap in a six, you might want to upgrade the radiator. Back in the day (early 70's) my brother had a 52 Willys Overland where they had installed the six. It was fine around town, but at 10,000 ft. and above, overheating was a constant problem. We learned to carry a 5 gal can of water to refill the radiator after it boiled over. The other issue was a leaking main seal -- replacement didn't help and I suspect the crank was out of round. Even after a rebuild, the transmission had a habit of popping out of first gear when Jeeping on steep slopes..
When compression testing the throttle must be open, nice truck by the way. They have a tendency for the valves to stick, checking the valve clearance might be a idea as well , you should run a valve saver fluid as well
I am an amateur, learning as I go. I tried another compression test with engine warmed up and throttle open. I got much lower numbers. Not sure why. I need to get a better compression tester. Never heard of valve saver. Had to look it up. Sort of a lead substitute?
@@brokejeepnut1905 You could use a oil with a zinc additive, heard that works too. Engine oil then had a zinc additive along with leaded gas.
Out the spark plugs spray cylinders generously PB blaster or equivalent. Using the spray stem shoot generous amounts of solvent toward the valve recess area in the heads. Cover the spark plug holes with towels to absorb splash. Rotate the Heck out of the engine for a minutes it so. This is to get the blaster drizzling down the valve train. Before rotating engine put marvel mystery into oil. Let set over night. Next day put spark plugs in start it. Let it Idle for half hour. Take it out of and run it hard for an hour. The sticky valve train should clean up nicely.
I may give that a try
Old flat head NICE
Best bet used 10w30 engine oil no synthetic type also 89 or 91 octane gas too always plus grey bottle STP Total Treatment fuel injection and carb cleaner in fuel every to also every month!
Man...all you garage photo jockeys...😉....ol junior needs this for lawn mowin payment on his 16th....that thing just needs driving....here, there, everywhere....except on the highways or cities.....nice rural drives...
I could be that u having slightly issue with a valve , drop some mystery oil or gear oil to see if the compression builds up.
Xe jeep đã sẵn sàng cho cuộc đua! Sức mạnh lớn!
If you have not done so, replace the pump diaphragm in the carb. When they start leaking the mixture will get really rich at idle and you'll have a hard time starting.
I did a full carb rebuild about a year ago. It is running much better after dropping the tank. It appears the little bit of bad fuel left in the tank was the issue. Could have been a lair amount of water in there also. I live in a fairly damp climate. I will use mainly non-ethanol fuel and fuel stabilizer in the winter going forward. Also, keep the tank full to avoid condensation.
The water leak at the radiator to head fitting is most of your rust.
Wow! What a find. Man that would be a great project. I'd like to find and older Jeep XJ but the prices on those are getting higher now.
My son wants an XJ. They used to be cheap! Not anymore.
@@brokejeepnut1905 The WJ's are becoming popular.
Nice piece of yonk 😂
as black as the plugs were. might be running to rich.
Compression check at WOT not idle.
Last time I saw this it was a 4 cyl engine and you just got it fired off and it produced lots of smoke.
Just saw this. If you don't have time for it I'd be happy to take it off your hands... ;)
Your spark plug of the Wllis green truck have been foul. The mixture of gasoline and air is too rich so it is too much fuel. You need to tighten the jet nozzle and lean gas. Thanks.
I'm just curious if the engine was hot when you checked the compression? If the engine was cold I wounder what the difference would be if hot.
It was fairly cold the first time. I will do another compression test and leak down test at some point. It's running pretty good now though. So I am not in a rush.
Some white wagon wheels and that j keep. Wood pop
I have had suggestions of cream colored or white wheels. They would pop for sure. Not sure why, but I like the black theme. My grill bars are black, bumpers, tailgate stencils, etc. Maybe some day I will change it.
I know of a wagon version for sale locally at a classic car dealership.
It has a chassi from a 90s blazer.
Think the price is around 14-15 thousand.
Sad to see a Willys bastardized.4
No, you pronounce it correctly. That is, how it's pronounced in Toledo, OH - the hometown of Willys.
Thanks! If you watch old promotional videos on TH-cam it's pronounced like Willis. I will still say it as Willy's though, with no apologies. haha
Is that really a 2 piece windshield? Or did you just add the trim for the look? Introduction of 1 piece windshield was 59, and the later half of 60 was the full conversion to 1 piece.
It’s a two piece . If I recall, the window opening didn’t change when they went to one piece. The one piece is expensive, harder to find and uses a thicker rubber seal to fit in an opening designed for flat glass. For me, I also liked the look of the flat glass and had the required center trim from a parts cab.
In australia it wasn't until 1962 , but they were already a few months old getting here. I liked the old hunting films
Run the recommended Marvel's in the gas and run it at its highway speed for a tank and see if you have a ring just semi-stuck that Marvel can free up (sitting with bad fuel). Whatever you do, it is running way too rich. The float setting could be off due to sitting with ethanol fuel.
Highway speed, that's funny. Top speed is 50. Haha. It is running really well now with good gas. Still could be a little rich. I will likely try a few methods like the one you mentioned, to see I can free up the possibly stuck valve.
@@brokejeepnut1905 Oil will not bring up compression with a "stuck valve". It will with a stuck ring. The line was "its HW speed" (which could be 45).
@@benkanobe7500 I will try that method once I have gone through everything for regular use and add insurance. I greatly appreciate everyone's suggestions.
I will buy it, how much.
So you suspect that bad fuel is an issue but you really don't feel like draining the whole tank!! Well, good luck.
I ended up dropping the tank in part 2. Running better now. More work to do though.
Also; STAY AWAY FROM ETHANOL FUEL.....
Do it right and drop that nasty tank!
I ended up dropping the tank and flushed the lines, see part two. It made a big difference.
i will buy it how much
Thanks for the compliment. I can’t put a price in all my blood, sweat, tears and bears that went into it though. My first and probably last full restoration.
@@brokejeepnut1905 i understand nice jeep
How much would you sell that truck for?
I don't think I could even come up with an amount that would cover all the blood, sweat, tears and beers.
grandad had a 53 sold it 20yrs ago for 50$ made me sick
ugh! That might make me cry. He sold it?
No, it is certanly Not pronounced "willis". Willies is the correct way to pronounce the name. Has been all of my 67 yrs.
You are both correct and incorrect. Around here it’s always pronounced as if it’s Willy’s. The companies name comes from a persons last name pronounced as Willis though.
Whatchu talkin about Willis😂😂
Too rich.
Believe it or not the only thing I did was drop the tank and flush the fuel system. It's running good now. Bad gas potentially with water in it.
@@brokejeepnut1905 What is the compression now on #3 (at WOT)?
@@benkanobe7500 It was 90 and the rest were 115-120. Came up to 115 wet. 'They' say wet won't effect valves. The valves are right there under the plug holes on this flat head. I would think the oil could seal up a valve too. IDK. I still have a number of things to try. I have been sidetracked swapping engines in my YJ Wrangler. Hopefully back on the Willys soon.
@@brokejeepnut1905 Go back to the fundamentals of how a piston engine works. Flat head or otherwise, and it become clear to you. Oil will not bring up the compression of a burnt or leaking valve (unless you put enough in to turn the cylinder in to a liquid pump).