Brian and all who are watching this. Please take more precautions when applying these chemicals. Ones skin is extremely porous, wear gloves when applying anything.. even the scuff.. Paint suit.. etc as well as using a mask. had a auto paint friend who "got used to it" and died of cancer at 42yo. read the labels.... this is all nasty stuff..
4:00 For those confused; he's saying "mould", not "mold." A mould is a form that plastic in its liquid form is poured into so that it takes the shape of the mould when it hardens.
I am trying to paint my motorbike helmet, and worrying about, trying to work out the design while the music at the end was amp Ing up and getting really in the mood of where I was going… he says “don’t stress about it so much it’s just paint” honestly, this could not have been more perfect. Thank you so much.
You haven’t lived until you’ve had to redo one that flaked off! Good point on not over scuffing it especially with a metallic. Even with all the proper steps they are still nerve wracking!
Your videos are so educational, inspiring and fun to watch. As an owner of 3 older bmws (1991 850i/6speed, 2000 M5 and 97 540i sport/6speed) they have Zero rust but the 850i has some paint fade on top of rear bumper and the 540i roof has some paint oxidation which I may attempt to repaint . the 540i’s value hasnt appreciated like the 850i so no harm there in trying especially afterwatching some of you’re videos. Some of the real world scenarios that you post (rattle can paint job, cheap spray gun tests etc) makes people feel confident enough and removes the intimidation of painting their car on a budget.
Nice, im in college for auto collision repair and refining and practiced pating some bumper covers the other day, I had trouble getting in the fog light holes and deeper holes but i think i did alright, im exited to keep learning
@@PaintSociety Hi, sorry to bug you, but I can't seem to find any distributor of that anti-static cleaner and AkzoNobel's site doesn't seem to sell it direct either. The whole situation sikkens me (🤪). Do you happen to know where to buy that gosh darn thing?
Great vid, I just did this a couple months ago for the first time and it was a fun learning experience. Not a new bumper, repaired a crack and repainted a peeling old bumper that was painted by a local body shop and had Doritos-sized paint sections falling off (that shop went out of business, wonder why?). I made some noob mistakes but did use aerosol adhesion promoter and overall it came out looking pretty good for a first attempt...after I redid the 'noob mistakes' section anyway. I used 2k urethane primer, base, and 2K urethane clear, fingers crossed it holds up. Getting the old paint off was annoying but Smart Strip paint remover and a Ryobi pressure washer removed most of it.
I just wet sand lightly with a grey pad and 2 light coats of adhesion promoter and never have a problem,,, only time I ever did was cleaning it with anything but tack cloth
Thing about plastics is that some people whom I know think its the same as prepping a metal panel, bonnet, door, roof etc when it's very different. The plastic of the car needs a plastic primer, adhesion promoter, sealer etc and I've used just a grey scotch pad. Didn't use scuff paste and it did turn out ok.
I'm in the same boat. These pros throw some reducer on their primer and poof they got sealer. I got the SEM flexible primer surfacer can to try. Says it seals, but it's not a two part 🤔 not sure if I'm gonna use this and go for it, or add an epoxy primer 2k... But it's also not an expensive car... 🤔
What if you had to repair some minor scratches (refinishing an OEM bumper w/ original paint)? Any special primer you'd recommend to remain flexible? Same question about the filler (specific recommendations)? I'm not talking major repair (tears, hot staples, plastic welding). Just some minor rash that goes through clear coat/paint, maybe a tiny bit into the raw plastic but not deep. Basically refinishing a 'take off' from a solid donor car. Thanks, as always, for your fantastic videos!!
Nice video. Seeing all the steps, I understand why it's expensive getting these items painted. I stopped by my Chrysler dealership to get pricing for painting a couple plastic molded 24"x 13" x 2" hood scoops. It's my first estimate, but I was given $200 excluding installation for both. I'm curious what other shops will charge. I was going to use Mopar paint in rattle cans, but after watching your video. The prep may be my downfall. Thanks again for your video.
That's like measure twice and cut ones. Problem is that up here in NYC, Insurance companies don't want to pay for the time and materials needed to do this. So, most shops take shortcuts and in the long run, it doesn't hold up. By the time that happens, the customer doesn't remember who did the work. lol Great video, Brian...😎
My daughter received a pink helmet for christmas I am using this video so I can paint something over the pink for her as she is not a huge fan of the colour. Thanks for the tips.
This is the video I needed. Was planning on repainting my rear bumper. I’m not an expert but I knew I needed some type of flex agent. Easy to understand, straight forward 💯
Thanks alot Brian ! Great stuff here. I see that you suggested 1.4 nozzle for primer and 1.3 for clear coat. What size nozzle should be used on Base? 1.3?
Thanks for another great video! I have learned so much from you over the last year. Love your colabs with bodevision as well. Keep up the amazing work man!
Hello Brian, great video. I bought a after market bumper that supposedly has primer i want to remove it and start fresh. How would i remove it the correct way?
Do you think that you could accomplish the same surface prep with a really fine glass bean sand blaster? I want to paint a piece of plastic that has a crap ton of texture, nooks and crannies. I'm sure that trying to get in there with a scotch bright pad would be next to impossible.
Hey Brian, great video! My only questions is the 902 plastic cleaner. If I’m using the bulldog Abrasive prep and clean that states it removes “release agents” do I still need the 902 Plastic cleaner to release mould agents ? I guess I’m going to find out in 2 days when I paint my First plastic bumper! Lol but thanks for the great vids, I’ll be able to buy my GTR soon because of you! Lol
If the bumper needs to be sanded but it’s 85% bare plastic, Do you still recommend adhesion promoter? Before primer Also, base and clear don’t need a flex additive?
Primered or ABS plastic, good term to remember on one is Already Been Sanded. Simply clean, adehesion promoter, seal and base/clear. Yeah I know, we've always sanded everything. There's no need with ABS plastics, you're chemically opening pours with a ABS cleaner than using adhesion promoter. We use the bake cycle from another paint job or put a batch of all the jobs that day. Denatured alcohol kills static, pulls wax (mold release agent) Think of dying plastic interior panels, you can't sand those either yet you don't see those panels peeling. Trust the process.
Yep on the denatured alcohol. No need to buy the manufacturers expensive anti-stat cleaner. Most are nothing but denatured alcohol with a fancy name and price. And, it works regardless if the mold release was oil based or water based.
Hi, i used an adhesion promoter on my raw plastic bumper, and then sealed it, but after the sealer started to dry, the sealer cracked, a bunch of lil crack lines appeared, what caused that and how can i fix it?
Thank you for your videos. I order a bumper from Kies Motorsport. It’s supposed to be an OEM bumper and they said it comes pre-primed. Should I still use adhesion promoter?
I’m doing rain guards, and a spoiler kit on the bottom of my car. I was told, use a maroon scuff pad, clean with a grease and oil remover, then wipe down with an alcohol? Then add my plastic adhesive, prime, then paint. Does that sound ok to you? Thanks. I bought the spoiler kit off EBay, and it comes shiny, hence the scuff pad. After painting, I’m adding a 2k clear with the bladder in the bottom of the can.
0:49 Shows 4 fingers :) Love you man! P.S.: yes aftermarket raw bumpers are a nightmare. I had to use a pressure washer to get my first finish off...SMH
Love the channel, it is quickly becoming my favorite. You always go into detail and thats what I'm looking for in the vids I watch. Another Excellent video!
I have a bumoer that needs to be repainted. it has some areas that are scuffed which I will need to use body filler for that. I am going to have to use cans for everything except of course for the body filler. After using the body filler do i just spray the adheasion promoter on that area or do i still need to spray it on the areas that I just scuffed the clearcoat as well, so that whole area? Then for the sanded areas I would use a primer filler to fill in any sanding scratches correct? after this step do I still to spray a sealer on top of that as well before painting? if so can you please.provide a link for sealer in a spray can as well? Thank you. P.s if there is anything that I am missing or you would do instead please let me know. Thank you!👍
Nice! Thanks for sharing! I'm currently setting up to paint new bare plastic. However I can't find any black or dark primer sealer. Can I use sandable primer over the adhesion promoter instead? If so do I have to sand the primer before Base coat? ( Base coat is black.) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again
If you only have gray sealer or even white you can get away with spraying that and then 3 coats of black base. If you're going to spray primer you would have to wait for it to dry and then scuff the entire bumper again, then paint it
Hey Brian, so the only problem I run into is after spraying the adhesive promoter and I go straight into spraying my sealer/primer it always comes out rough and I end up having to sand it with 600 and 800. Any tips on laying the sealer/primer down smoother so I can go straight into base coat and not have to sand primer ? Thank you again!
What process does one need to go through to just repaint a bumper cover that was already painted from the factory? Other that fixing any scratches and sanding down , is it necessary to still put an adhesion promoter and or sealer on the already factory painted bumper before base and clear?
I bought a spy racing quad that has been left out in the sun, the varnish is rough and the color has faded, so I will be stripping all the panels off and repainting them. Have you done one before please? will you do one before me? Thnks
Great vid but I have a question I own a 2009 jeep wrangler and the factory black bumpers and front/back fenders are so faded that they are almost white!!!! Have tried a few products to restore the black and works for a bit but then fades. Can they be prep to paint like in this vid. If so could would you show us how. I was about to buy all aftermarket till I saw this vid. Please help/advise. Thx Dwayne
Quick question Brian I’m working on a front bumper I sccuffed it all down with 320 then repaired the damages and primed em and sanded with 320 then went back over with 400 grit but I never put adhesion promotor on before the primer would I be okay to just spray a coat of adhesion promotor over it and then paint and clear ?
Thank you 🙏 so much again Brian for the review and the info this channel have been a lot too us Brian keep it up and keep doing the good work ✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯👏👏👏👏👏👏🙏🙏🙏👍👍👍👏✊✊✊✊✊✊🤣
Is the Eastbay 2K still a Bit Flexible after application? I’ve test fitted & will need it to flex a bit for a tight install. I’ve Got a (Unpainted) Polyurethane Rear Diffuser. Steps I’ve taken so Far: I’ve prepped it (Manufacturers) Instructions, Dupli•Color Plastic Adhesion Promoter, Dupli•Color Scratch Filler Primer, Dupli• Color Black Base Color.
Hey Brian, if your bumper cover already has paint on it can you just scuff it and then spray adhesion promoter and then seal it before basecoat clearcoat?
Thanks again Brian for putting together high quality instructional videos for professional painting. How would you fix up a road rash covered PTM plastic bumper. I was thinking of using plastic epoxy (same stuff you used on the corvette trunk lid) to fill holes then adhesion promote the areas that the bare plastic are showing. Then seal and paint as usual?
Hey Brian I really love your videos and I’ve got a question because I have a wheelchair accessible Dodge fan and with all the wheelchair accessible minivans they put those fiberglass ground treatments on the bottom that end up getting scuffed up. Outside of making the fiberglass repair and trying to send the lightweight Bondo as smooth as possible is there anything else I need to know about prepping the paint surface on the fiberglass but has not been damaged
@@PaintSociety Thank you so much. These crazy mobility vans are so expensive that when they start getting scuffed up or rusty you just try to figure out how to keep them going a little bit longer
Love watching your videos, I’ve learned a lot from watching you. One question I had, after the clear has dried on a plastic bumper, do you need to cut and buff it with compound and polish or is that only needed on metal parts? Thanks for the vids and keep up the good work!
It’s a little late but maybe can help others, depends on product and/or how the clear lands. If you have obvious runs or fisheyes, you may have to wet sand and what not. I am no professional, but have had pretty good success in multiple projects. Like you I have learned a lot especially from Brian. It is an art, and with a little knowledge, you can polish the biggest turd out there.
Brian and all who are watching this. Please take more precautions when applying these chemicals. Ones skin is extremely porous, wear gloves when applying anything.. even the scuff.. Paint suit.. etc as well as using a mask. had a auto paint friend who "got used to it" and died of cancer at 42yo. read the labels.... this is all nasty stuff..
I have had sex with over 2 people
I wear goggles, a mask, and gloves, but I never thought about the suit. I recently got one only to protect my clothes.
Thanks for the info!
thanks for the precaution, deepest apologies for your friend
Can't live forever....no matter how hard you try. Live life as you wish...don't criticize others on how they choose to live their life.
The quality of these videos is incredible. I love how detailed the info is amazingly. Thank you
This video tutorial should get a award. Very interesting and informative. You are a great explainer. Learned alot.
4:00 For those confused; he's saying "mould", not "mold." A mould is a form that plastic in its liquid form is poured into so that it takes the shape of the mould when it hardens.
I am trying to paint my motorbike helmet, and worrying about, trying to work out the design while the music at the end was amp Ing up and getting really in the mood of where I was going… he says “don’t stress about it so much it’s just paint” honestly, this could not have been more perfect. Thank you so much.
Great information and well explained 🤝
Thank you! Thanks for stopping by!
You haven’t lived until you’ve had to redo one that flaked off! Good point on not over scuffing it especially with a metallic. Even with all the proper steps they are still nerve wracking!
Your videos are so educational, inspiring and fun to watch. As an owner of 3 older bmws (1991 850i/6speed, 2000 M5 and 97 540i sport/6speed) they have Zero rust but the 850i has some paint fade on top of rear bumper and the 540i roof has some paint oxidation which I may attempt to repaint . the 540i’s value hasnt appreciated like the 850i so no harm there in trying especially afterwatching some of you’re videos. Some of the real world scenarios that you post (rattle can paint job, cheap spray gun tests etc) makes people feel confident enough and removes the intimidation of painting their car on a budget.
Nice, im in college for auto collision repair and refining and practiced pating some bumper covers the other day, I had trouble getting in the fog light holes and deeper holes but i think i did alright, im exited to keep learning
To support the channel and purchase Paint Society merch head over to paintsociety.bigcartel.com
You the man bro
Really nice info. Painters pay attention
Thanks for stopping by the channel bro!
@@PaintSociety
Hi, sorry to bug you, but I can't seem to find any distributor of that anti-static cleaner and AkzoNobel's site doesn't seem to sell it direct either.
The whole situation sikkens me (🤪).
Do you happen to know where to buy that gosh darn thing?
Great information, like the way you explain, best video about raw bumpers, God blessings to you and your family
Really straightforward vid, that addresses what's important when painting plastic. THX!
Great vid, I just did this a couple months ago for the first time and it was a fun learning experience. Not a new bumper, repaired a crack and repainted a peeling old bumper that was painted by a local body shop and had Doritos-sized paint sections falling off (that shop went out of business, wonder why?). I made some noob mistakes but did use aerosol adhesion promoter and overall it came out looking pretty good for a first attempt...after I redid the 'noob mistakes' section anyway. I used 2k urethane primer, base, and 2K urethane clear, fingers crossed it holds up. Getting the old paint off was annoying but Smart Strip paint remover and a Ryobi pressure washer removed most of it.
First YT video I found that actually makes sense! Thanks!
Brian I have learnt so much from this channel. Thank you sir.
So detailed with the explanations. Ur a living legend
Very good info, especially with sweating the release agent off of raw plastic bumpers.
Thanks. I been watching your channel and excited for the new shop
@@PaintSocietyI'm sanding a lower back bumper valance . Can you tell me the best spray paint for a gloss black finish. Really appreciate it.
I always learn something on Brians videos! AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!
After scuffing, I usually use nautical epoxy primer. It helps with chipping in motorcycle fairings and mudguards.
One of those rare TH-cam videos where everything is useful information explained well and to the point. 👍👍
I just wet sand lightly with a grey pad and 2 light coats of adhesion promoter and never have a problem,,, only time I ever did was cleaning it with anything but tack cloth
Thing about plastics is that some people whom I know think its the same as prepping a metal panel, bonnet, door, roof etc when it's very different.
The plastic of the car needs a plastic primer, adhesion promoter, sealer etc and I've used just a grey scotch pad. Didn't use scuff paste and it did turn out ok.
Good job Brian, looks great! Good info on the stuffing paste and the anti static wipe! Thanks for the vids man!
Adhesion promoter is your friend and work's well for any surface
Hi Brian, do you have a recommendation for a good plastic sealer that comes in a spray can?
I could have used this answer. Lol
I'm in the same boat. These pros throw some reducer on their primer and poof they got sealer. I got the SEM flexible primer surfacer can to try. Says it seals, but it's not a two part 🤔 not sure if I'm gonna use this and go for it, or add an epoxy primer 2k... But it's also not an expensive car... 🤔
Any clearcoat duplex does a 2 part
Hey Brian, I have an interesting question - what do you think about using a flex agent in base and/or primer?
What if you had to repair some minor scratches (refinishing an OEM bumper w/ original paint)? Any special primer you'd recommend to remain flexible? Same question about the filler (specific recommendations)?
I'm not talking major repair (tears, hot staples, plastic welding). Just some minor rash that goes through clear coat/paint, maybe a tiny bit into the raw plastic but not deep. Basically refinishing a 'take off' from a solid donor car.
Thanks, as always, for your fantastic videos!!
Nice video. Seeing all the steps, I understand why it's expensive getting these items painted. I stopped by my Chrysler dealership to get pricing for painting a couple plastic molded 24"x 13" x 2" hood scoops. It's my first estimate, but I was given $200 excluding installation for both. I'm curious what other shops will charge. I was going to use Mopar paint in rattle cans, but after watching your video. The prep may be my downfall. Thanks again for your video.
Thank you for adding the don't overthink it you just helped me get straight to it👍🏼👌🏽
That looks like a lot of fun and so very satisfying
Hey Brian you really produce some great stuff man --I'm learning a hell of a lot from your vids many thanks I'm based in the U.k
That's like measure twice and cut ones. Problem is that up here in NYC, Insurance companies don't want to pay for the time and materials needed to do this. So, most shops take shortcuts and in the long run, it doesn't hold up. By the time that happens, the customer doesn't remember who did the work. lol Great video, Brian...😎
My daughter received a pink helmet for christmas I am using this video so I can paint something over the pink for her as she is not a huge fan of the colour. Thanks for the tips.
Brian your are Beast 💪 God bless you and your family Thank you 🙏🙏🙏😊
What about on a used bumper cover? After a repair do you use adhesion promoter then primer, sealer, base/clear?
This is the video I needed. Was planning on repainting my rear bumper. I’m not an expert but I knew I needed some type of flex agent. Easy to understand, straight forward 💯
This is the best tutorial on painting plastics I have seen. Thank you
Thanks alot Brian ! Great stuff here. I see that you suggested 1.4 nozzle for primer and 1.3 for clear coat. What size nozzle should be used on Base? 1.3?
awesome video. but how do you prep and paint already painted plastic parts like mudflaps or side mirrors, or headlight/taillight covers/fascias?
Hi Brian, how do you prepare a sealer for a plastic bumper. Pls show what and how flex agent is added
Bumper looks great, also like the multiple camera angles!!
Running 2x cameras now
@@PaintSociety 360 cam would be dope! Minus the over spray it will get all over it! Lol
Thanks for another great video! I have learned so much from you over the last year. Love your colabs with bodevision as well. Keep up the amazing work man!
Hello Brian, great video. I bought a after market bumper that supposedly has primer i want to remove it and start fresh. How would i remove it the correct way?
That's a help, I had a fit with the bumper I did for my car, I'll have to jus start over, Thanks
Thanks for all the great info! I have a plastic bumper that is rock chipped to oblivion. Do you have a video showing how you would attach?
Do you think that you could accomplish the same surface prep with a really fine glass bean sand blaster? I want to paint a piece of plastic that has a crap ton of texture, nooks and crannies. I'm sure that trying to get in there with a scotch bright pad would be next to impossible.
Been there, thought I just needed to clean better….. and here I am, learning how to do it properly without a hundred million fisheyes 😂
@paint society - Hi Brian, do you have a video for painting the plastic bumpers that come with that black primer on it?
Are you able to do a segment on some ways to smooth out and paint textured plastics? Appreciate your hard work and effort.
Hey Brian, great video! My only questions is the 902 plastic cleaner. If I’m using the bulldog Abrasive prep and clean that states it removes “release agents” do I still need the 902 Plastic cleaner to release mould agents ? I guess I’m going to find out in 2 days when I paint my First plastic bumper! Lol but thanks for the great vids, I’ll be able to buy my GTR soon because of you! Lol
As usual great content. Thanks for the motivation and confidence
If the bumper needs to be sanded but it’s 85% bare plastic, Do you still recommend adhesion promoter? Before primer
Also, base and clear don’t need a flex additive?
Always adhesive promoter.
Would this work on melamine cabinets
Great video! Thanks for this info. Can I use a steam cleaner to clean the front grill I'm doing?
Great video, question would these same steps apply to painting a plastic boat?
Flex agent is added to sealer and clear. Is the flex agent also added to the base?
Primered or ABS plastic, good term to remember on one is Already Been Sanded. Simply clean, adehesion promoter, seal and base/clear. Yeah I know, we've always sanded everything. There's no need with ABS plastics, you're chemically opening pours with a ABS cleaner than using adhesion promoter. We use the bake cycle from another paint job or put a batch of all the jobs that day. Denatured alcohol kills static, pulls wax (mold release agent)
Think of dying plastic interior panels, you can't sand those either yet you don't see those panels peeling. Trust the process.
Yep on the denatured alcohol. No need to buy the manufacturers expensive anti-stat cleaner. Most are nothing but denatured alcohol with a fancy name and price. And, it works regardless if the mold release was oil based or water based.
@@patricksantana3337 exactly, if a jobber mentions it change suppliers.
Hi, i used an adhesion promoter on my raw plastic bumper, and then sealed it, but after the sealer started to dry, the sealer cracked, a bunch of lil crack lines appeared, what caused that and how can i fix it?
Dry time?
when would you need flex agent on such a flexable part like bumper vs not needing?
dope. My caddy side molding is battered and chipped. Going to a DIY instead of paying someone $100!!! Thanks again
I knew I should have searched your channel for this before I started... but lesson learned 😒
Well done and nicely explained thank you very
You are welcome!
Great video love watching all your videos have learned a lot gonna have a go at spraying my van 👊👊👊
Thank you for your videos. I order a bumper from Kies Motorsport. It’s supposed to be an OEM bumper and they said it comes pre-primed. Should I still use adhesion promoter?
I’m doing rain guards, and a spoiler kit on the bottom of my car. I was told, use a maroon scuff pad, clean with a grease and oil remover, then wipe down with an alcohol? Then add my plastic adhesive, prime, then paint. Does that sound ok to you? Thanks. I bought the spoiler kit off EBay, and it comes shiny, hence the scuff pad. After painting, I’m adding a 2k clear with the bladder in the bottom of the can.
Thanks for you explained.
What would happen if I don’t spray sealer will the paint stays for a long time? Thanks brain
Great info Brian! Lookin slick as always!
Thanks! Can’t wait to see how the vette turns out
@@PaintSociety Thanks brother ,hopefully sunday! Film, edit ,repeat !
0:49 Shows 4 fingers :) Love you man!
P.S.: yes aftermarket raw bumpers are a nightmare. I had to use a pressure washer to get my first finish off...SMH
That pink is definitely a little bent back hahah
Another good video, the explanation well detailed, I really liked the two videos on the same screen, well done my brother 👍
Do you bake it after in the heater room. I mean any other treatment after clear coat?
Love the channel, it is quickly becoming my favorite. You always go into detail and thats what I'm looking for in the vids I watch. Another Excellent video!
😘😘😘
I have a bumoer that needs to be repainted. it has some areas that are scuffed which I will need to use body filler for that.
I am going to have to use cans for everything except of course for the body filler.
After using the body filler do i just spray the adheasion promoter on that area or do i still need to spray it on the areas that I just scuffed the clearcoat as well, so that whole area?
Then for the sanded areas I would use a primer filler to fill in any sanding scratches correct?
after this step do I still to spray a sealer on top of that as well before painting?
if so can you please.provide a link for sealer in a spray can as well?
Thank you.
P.s if there is anything that I am missing or you would do instead please let me know. Thank you!👍
What kind of flex agent do you recommend? And how much to put in?
Did you ever figure out?
Nice! Thanks for sharing! I'm currently setting up to paint new bare plastic. However I can't find any black or dark primer sealer. Can I use sandable primer over the adhesion promoter instead? If so do I have to sand the primer before Base coat? ( Base coat is black.) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again
If you only have gray sealer or even white you can get away with spraying that and then 3 coats of black base. If you're going to spray primer you would have to wait for it to dry and then scuff the entire bumper again, then paint it
Hey Brian, so the only problem I run into is after spraying the adhesive promoter and I go straight into spraying my sealer/primer it always comes out rough and I end up having to sand it with 600 and 800. Any tips on laying the sealer/primer down smoother so I can go straight into base coat and not have to sand primer ? Thank you again!
Reduce your primer. (Add thinner or reducer)
Do I need to use plastic primer prior repainting my old painted bumper? Thank you.
Great info! Love the detail you share. ✋🏼
What process does one need to go through to just repaint a bumper cover that was already painted from the factory? Other that fixing any scratches and sanding down , is it necessary to still put an adhesion promoter and or sealer on the already factory painted bumper before base and clear?
Great painter, very knowledgeable, keep it up mate👍👍👊
Is flex additive needed to be added to the clear coat as well?
I bought a spy racing quad that has been left out in the sun, the varnish is rough and the color has faded, so I will be stripping all the panels off and repainting them. Have you done one before please? will you do one before me? Thnks
Great vid but I have a question
I own a 2009 jeep wrangler and the factory black bumpers and front/back fenders are so faded that they are almost white!!!! Have tried a few products to restore the black and works for a bit but then fades. Can they be prep to paint like in this vid. If so could would you show us how. I was about to buy all aftermarket till I saw this vid. Please help/advise.
Thx
Dwayne
They are fading because it’s just black trim paint without any uv resistance. Painting those flares are almost like changing the oil. Maintenance
Hey Brian. If the bumper has already been painted, would you just sand with k600 and use typical paint methods?
Thank you for the clear and consistent information!
Man great info and video I came over from bodevision and just subscribed!!!!!
Welcome !!
Cool Info Video and perfect Job Love it 👍❤️👍
great video Brian!
Quick question Brian I’m working on a front bumper I sccuffed it all down with 320 then repaired the damages and primed em and sanded with 320 then went back over with 400 grit but I never put adhesion promotor on before the primer would I be okay to just spray a coat of adhesion promotor over it and then paint and clear ?
Thank you 🙏 so much again Brian for the review and the info this channel have been a lot too us Brian keep it up and keep doing the good work ✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯👏👏👏👏👏👏🙏🙏🙏👍👍👍👏✊✊✊✊✊✊🤣
Is the Eastbay 2K still a Bit Flexible after application? I’ve test fitted & will need it to flex a bit for a tight install. I’ve Got a (Unpainted) Polyurethane Rear Diffuser. Steps I’ve taken so Far: I’ve prepped it (Manufacturers) Instructions, Dupli•Color Plastic Adhesion Promoter, Dupli•Color Scratch Filler Primer, Dupli• Color Black Base Color.
You should be fine
Can you do this with motorcycle fairings?
Hey Brian, if your bumper cover already has paint on it can you just scuff it and then spray adhesion promoter and then seal it before basecoat clearcoat?
Thanks again Brian for putting together high quality instructional videos for professional painting.
How would you fix up a road rash covered PTM plastic bumper. I was thinking of using plastic epoxy (same stuff you used on the corvette trunk lid) to fill holes then adhesion promote the areas that the bare plastic are showing. Then seal and paint as usual?
Hey Brian I really love your videos and I’ve got a question because I have a wheelchair accessible Dodge fan and with all the wheelchair accessible minivans they put those fiberglass ground treatments on the bottom that end up getting scuffed up. Outside of making the fiberglass repair and trying to send the lightweight Bondo as smooth as possible is there anything else I need to know about prepping the paint surface on the fiberglass but has not been damaged
If the rest of the fiberglass is in good condition then you can just scuff it up with 600
@@PaintSociety Thank you so much. These crazy mobility vans are so expensive that when they start getting scuffed up or rusty you just try to figure out how to keep them going a little bit longer
@@MarkLof55 you can message me on IG for a better explanation
I need to know what’s a good recommendation on a plastic sealer that comes in a can ???? Please help
great vid for plastic how about rubber i want to color match my mg's rubber bumpers from black rubber to white paint any hints
The sealer is the pain?
Love watching your videos, I’ve learned a lot from watching you. One question I had, after the clear has dried on a plastic bumper, do you need to cut and buff it with compound and polish or is that only needed on metal parts? Thanks for the vids and keep up the good work!
It’s a little late but maybe can help others, depends on product and/or how the clear lands. If you have obvious runs or fisheyes, you may have to wet sand and what not. I am no professional, but have had pretty good success in multiple projects. Like you I have learned a lot especially from Brian. It is an art, and with a little knowledge, you can polish the biggest turd out there.
Bonjour de la France 🇫🇷😉