If you don't cut the rubber nipple on the top of the liquid filled gauges then the gauge will not give an accurate reading and will fluctuate wildly with temperature. Even at idle the pressure variation from inside the gauge to the ambient temperature will make it displace wrong so this gauge might have been reading wrong here. Went through this in the process of tuning my srt4 and the fuel pressure reading dropping drastically from engine bay heat. Aeromotive makes a special liquid filled gauge with a valve instead of a nipple that lets you equalize the pressure in the gauge body without spilling liquid out or getting debris inside the gauge.
Fuel injection with direct port injectors need to run high psi and at that volume the regulator needs a return line. 40+ psi is A Lot higher than even a huge carb. My 1050 cfm, Williams Dominator atop my BBC only needs about 7psi at the regulator and my elect-fuel pump- Holley "Black" is about 140 gph
Why are you using adjustable fpr with stock engine. I really want to know. I was thinking of getting one because i have a rich condition and don’t know if it’s due to my rock auto fuel pump
The stock fpr can’t handle after market like fuel pump or cat back exhaust? I think I have the same issue where my fpr is being overrun by fuel pump I’m assuming. My purpose for wanting to get one of these is to run stock pressures and not rely on a weak oem where the diaphragm keeps being overrun
When I do this method, and my fuel pressure drops to 34.5 psi, the engine sounds like it’s knocking. I have to keep my pressure at idle to 43.5 psi . In the notes on my tune, it states ***base pressure 43.5**** I am also viewing my FP on a digital gauge. Thank you sir, thoughts?
How come after installing this fpr my car started once and Ran fine, but sfter shutting it off it will not start anymore just cranks but doesnt fire up at all, bmw m30b34 if it matters
Was the spring light inside? As the one I bought has a seriosly hard spring and is nearly sold making it imposible to get the pressure low enough even with the thread adjuster removed
Just turn the ignition to on but don’t start the car. Jumping the relay is extra work.also noticed that your pressure was dropping after you made the adjustment. Possibly a leaking injector.
Hi, whenever I shut off my engine my fuel pressure regulator drops to zero instantly. Is that normal? Or I should hold certain amount of fuel pressure?
For s14, the relay is in the driver's side interior fuse panel in the foot well. You'll see a bracket with 3 relays. The fuel pump relay is one of the blue ones. Check with FSM
Dude if you have no vacuum line your car is probably running rich at idle... if you have one of these regulators I'm hoping you have an afr wideband or else you are truly running blind my subaru is rated 40-50psi but modded now I have to run 60psi to get mid 11s on the wideband hope you get one it'll help you and attach that vacuum it'll save gas
Good video, but you gotta try to spend less time with your hand in front of the camera lol learn to use your left hand sometimes just to avoid that. gotta think about the views perspective when making videos... Thanks for posting though, good information.
I change from a SU float bowl to a larger holley bowl, the SU could handle around 2.5 psi at first at was drinking all the fuel out of the bowl before it could reach 2 psi of boost at the manifold, I change to grose jets that claimed to handle 4 psi but it overfueled at idle with the guages on the regulator showing anything over 3.5. I added a second SU bowl with another grose jet fitted and it helped a little but I still had the same issue and a big lean out on my narrow band guage as soon as I started showing boost, I changed the holley dead head reg to a billet mallory without really any noticable advantage. I then fitted a holley bowl from a 350cfm 2bbl and got rid of the two SU bowls, now on my narrow band guage it stayed reasonably steady pulling upto around 4psi of boost at the manifold, with the holley I have the fuel pressure reg set to show just under 6psi on the fuel pressure guage, it is now good for overtaking on the highway but not enough to floor it for a whole quarter mile. Would there be much advantage in a regulator with a return back to the fuel tank and bringing up the pressure and who makes a good affordable boost referenced regulator with return designed to operate in a range between 4 and 10 psi of fuel pressure.
because this dude is neglecting a whole lot of info.... Say YOUR cars workshop manuel stats 30 PSI is optimal as idle pressure, you start the car and adjust the regulator so it hits that numbers (check the manuel under fuel system troubleshooting, you'll find the procedure for checking factory FPR functionality). The regulator then regulates the fuel pressure according to the intake pressure. On a NA engine this will result in a pressure drop since the cylinder draw the air in and thereby creates a vacuum in the intake manifold. Aftermarket fuel pressure regulator is only needed when going from NA to boost (turbo/supercharger) or upgrading your stock boost significantly. Basically on a stock engine a aftermarket FPR is just a gimmick!
Badass video. Simulating wide open throttle is something I've seen but wasn't sure why. Now I know
No problem guys, I'm glad you found it useful!
The goat 🙏🏽
3:50 yall! Thank you for this tip!
Perfect video I have the same exact fpr. You just got another sub my guy keep it up
I have 330cc injectors and where i should have regulator? On 43 ? Like you ?
I really love your videos! They are very helpful!
How much psi should a 1988 dodge 5.7l 2bbl have
If you don't cut the rubber nipple on the top of the liquid filled gauges then the gauge will not give an accurate reading and will fluctuate wildly with temperature. Even at idle the pressure variation from inside the gauge to the ambient temperature will make it displace wrong so this gauge might have been reading wrong here. Went through this in the process of tuning my srt4 and the fuel pressure reading dropping drastically from engine bay heat. Aeromotive makes a special liquid filled gauge with a valve instead of a nipple that lets you equalize the pressure in the gauge body without spilling liquid out or getting debris inside the gauge.
Fuel injection with direct port injectors need to run high psi and at that volume the regulator needs a return line. 40+ psi is A Lot higher than even a huge carb.
My 1050 cfm, Williams Dominator atop my BBC only needs about 7psi at the regulator and my elect-fuel pump- Holley "Black" is about 140 gph
i like the retro music
thank you! very helpful even though it was so simple.
Dude I need more vids !!! why you know make more ,is it because we didn't like the last one hahaha j/klolz .. seriously tho keep it up bro !!!
Does this fuel pressure regulator of yours... Can do in toyota corolla 4afe engine? Ae101
hey bro, did you get some good gain on the drive with this?
Why are you using adjustable fpr with stock engine. I really want to know. I was thinking of getting one because i have a rich condition and don’t know if it’s due to my rock auto fuel pump
My stock FPR blew out. Ran this one so I could have the fuel pressure gauge and actually know that it's set to the right pressure.
The stock fpr can’t handle after market like fuel pump or cat back exhaust? I think I have the same issue where my fpr is being overrun by fuel pump I’m assuming. My purpose for wanting to get one of these is to run stock pressures and not rely on a weak oem where the diaphragm keeps being overrun
Thx , Danno Chi-Town USA
Vice grips and pinch the vac line for the same effect?
When I do this method, and my fuel pressure drops to 34.5 psi, the engine sounds like it’s knocking. I have to keep my pressure at idle to 43.5 psi . In the notes on my tune, it states ***base pressure 43.5**** I am also viewing my FP on a digital gauge. Thank you sir, thoughts?
How come after installing this fpr my car started once and Ran fine, but sfter shutting it off it will not start anymore just cranks but doesnt fire up at all, bmw m30b34 if it matters
Was the spring light inside?
As the one I bought has a seriosly hard spring and is nearly sold making it imposible to get the pressure low enough even with the thread adjuster removed
Thanks bro
I’ve did everything like you did but the pressure goes up to 55 n over y is that? Vaccine leak?
are you gonna make any more videos ?
He's slammed with work and race car stuff. Grip Royal keeps him busy.
Caleb Bo 👍
good video very instructional
Where you at bro? I love all of your videos and wish there were more. You gonna make any more videos?
Just turn the ignition to on but don’t start the car. Jumping the relay is extra work.also noticed that your pressure was dropping after you made the adjustment. Possibly a leaking injector.
Hey what if mines just down in pressure? Right when I turn the key & even did the jumper wire. Bad fpr?
Could be, but also could be the fuel pump. If the fuel pump can't provide the flow then you won't see the pressure.
Have you done suspension / subrame bushings yet?
pretty cut and dry. this works out with the relay, because I have the same car.
What's the proper way to remove s13 relays I have zero idea on how to and I was on the zilvia forums and the only answer igot was to use vise grips
This video is very useful, i wanto to instl this kind of pressure regulator in my mercedes 190E, anyone know if it will work??
Thanks man!!!!
Hi, whenever I shut off my engine my fuel pressure regulator drops to zero instantly. Is that normal? Or I should hold certain amount of fuel pressure?
My do to
Nobody answered
thanks man for vídeo
how do i adjust it on an s14? only got the fuse for the fuel pump.
For s14, the relay is in the driver's side interior fuse panel in the foot well. You'll see a bracket with 3 relays. The fuel pump relay is one of the blue ones. Check with FSM
I have mine at 50psi with no vacaum pipe atached, this ok on a honda h22a??
Dude if you have no vacuum line your car is probably running rich at idle... if you have one of these regulators I'm hoping you have an afr wideband or else you are truly running blind my subaru is rated 40-50psi but modded now I have to run 60psi to get mid 11s on the wideband hope you get one it'll help you and attach that vacuum it'll save gas
very nice....thanks for this.
Good video, but you gotta try to spend less time with your hand in front of the camera lol learn to use your left hand sometimes just to avoid that. gotta think about the views perspective when making videos... Thanks for posting though, good information.
I change from a SU float bowl to a larger holley bowl, the SU could handle around 2.5 psi at first at was drinking all the fuel out of the bowl before it could reach 2 psi of boost at the manifold, I change to grose jets that claimed to handle 4 psi but it overfueled at idle with the guages on the regulator showing anything over 3.5. I added a second SU bowl with another grose jet fitted and it helped a little but I still had the same issue and a big lean out on my narrow band guage as soon as I started showing boost, I changed the holley dead head reg to a billet mallory without really any noticable advantage.
I then fitted a holley bowl from a 350cfm 2bbl and got rid of the two SU bowls, now on my narrow band guage it stayed reasonably steady pulling upto around 4psi of boost at the manifold, with the holley I have the fuel pressure reg set to show just under 6psi on the fuel pressure guage, it is now good for overtaking on the highway but not enough to floor it for a whole quarter mile.
Would there be much advantage in a regulator with a return back to the fuel tank and bringing up the pressure and who makes a good affordable boost referenced regulator with return designed to operate in a range between 4 and 10 psi of fuel pressure.
the truth is = you do not need one with that little pressure ! better off with out it and a good filter ! best for turbo `s
Aren't you supposed to snip the tip on the Gage if it points up
Where you at though 😩
Every car , need to be 34 at idle and 43 @open throttle , thanks for the tech
Hahaha Good one :D
Someone please help me I need a crankshaft pulley for my ka24de and I can't find one anyone? Pleased I need help badly
I have a few of them, where are you located?
Couldn’t you just pull the vacuum line and plug it, with the engine on to simulate wot?
If you did that you would flood out the engine
Project Garage that’s what it says in the Toyota service repair manual.
@@tylervitayanuvatti5511 Follow the procedures outlined in the factory service manual.
My car decrease the pressure when throttle.. why??
because this dude is neglecting a whole lot of info.... Say YOUR cars workshop manuel stats 30 PSI is optimal as idle pressure, you start the car and adjust the regulator so it hits that numbers (check the manuel under fuel system troubleshooting, you'll find the procedure for checking factory FPR functionality). The regulator then regulates the fuel pressure according to the intake pressure. On a NA engine this will result in a pressure drop since the cylinder draw the air in and thereby creates a vacuum in the intake manifold. Aftermarket fuel pressure regulator is only needed when going from NA to boost (turbo/supercharger) or upgrading your stock boost significantly. Basically on a stock engine a aftermarket FPR is just a gimmick!
my bike fuel pressure drops off on boost any ideas why?
Sounds like fuel pump?
Get rid of the loud obnoxious music please !
Dude, I saw you on CNN the other day. You had an RPG rocket firing at a US military tank. Or was it the latest ISIS recruitment video?