Someone just ignoring the fact that this 6300.oo dollar machine got flooded and just let it sit was such a waste of money and a great rig.Mine is a red 1999 and after still 26 years later still runs great....and looks like new.Of course....i took good care of mine.I watched this series long ago and here i am back again.Great content.
Hi Steve. I just wanted to say thank you. I rebuilt the top end of my Grizzly with complete success using nothing more than your videos as my source of info.
Thanks for all the videos of the rebuild of the top end going to help me out a lot because u was very detailed about everything. I just got one that the rings needs to be replaced. just wanted to say thanks for posting all the videos.
This one is a model year 2000, based on the VIN number. They phased out the 600 in 2002, replaced it with the 660. Even in 2002 the 600 was limited to a metallic silver model, and I've never seen one.
How easy is a cylinder and piston job to someone with basic knowlege? I have a service manual and will be watching your video. Currently I got all the valve cover bolts off but stuck on the removal due to the stupid epoxy like gasket keeping it stuck
Let me put it to you this way, if you are mechanically inclined (good with your hands) then I'd say it is very doable. Just off the top of my head, a couple things to keep in mind. Check all parts you are reusing for wear, like the timing chain tensioner and guides. As long as you're in there, give the head some love. Like lapping the valves, and new valve stem seals. If you are not comfortable doing that, take the head to a machine shop that does this work. It should not be too expensive, and poorly seating valves will result in poor compression even with a new piston and rings. poor valve stem seals will result in burning oil. Be sure to orient the rings properly, and check the end gap. This is in the manual. Use a good quality gas tolerant sealant, regular RTV will end up failing because eventually we all end up with gas in the oil to some extent.@@Sabi1234567890Asdf
@@stevewatr appreciate the tips. Managed to get to the cylinder before I started stripping bolts and getting mad. I know the utmost basics of mechanics but that's it however i am an appliance technition by trade so i am used to working with my hands. Service manual and these videos have been a big help.
I think there are 2 that do not "go anywhere". One is a vent and one is a bowl drain line. there is a screw near where it attatches to the bowl, and when you losen the screw, you can drain the float bowl. the drain one just needs to point down, and not be in a spot it can be damaged. The vent line should be routed beck up towards the air box. That's so if you get into deep water. I think it may have had an adapter on the end to attach it to larger clear plastic tubing.
Real hard to say. I mean, I got real lucky with this one. The motor was in decent shape before they jumped it in the lake, and somehow all the electrical survived. Also I think they pulled the drain plug and drained the crankcase right away. the drain plug was missing when I got it. This probably helped minimize damage. If it sat under water for more than a day, it may have more issues than this one did, but if it's really cheap, you could take a chance, and part it out if all else fails.
I've used Mystery oil on an old tractor engine that had stuck valves because it had sat over 10 years without use, and it worked great! I would not consider that hacky. On this motor I used a spray called Hil-co lube a customer gave me to try...........more videos coming soon.
Picked up mine in 2003 after a friend saw it at a guy's place who was selling everything because he was leaving the state...... I was asked to look at it, and it had parts taken off. I was able to briefly turn the crank as they took off the stator cover assy, but failed to turn it 360.......my mistake as later it only went about 180 and stopped. I asked if he had all the missing parts, and he said yes.....I told my friend that and he bought it. Later when they pulled it out of the crumbling garage and had a box of parts, half the electrical stuff was still missing, and when finally able to turn the crank was when I discovered it didn't turn all the way around. Considering the garage collapsed around it there wasn't much room to see this. I told my friend all this and since he isn't able to fix it, I bought it off him. Well little by little I bought stuff off Ebay and figured one day I'd get into the motor.....putting a camera scope in the spark plug hole showed the piston is toast, so a complete top end job is needed, so that's where I am today. Hopefully I can bore out the cylinder, as there are still plenty of parts on Ebay if the worst case scenario is I can't.
Hey Man, First off thanks for all the good info with the grizzly vids. Great stuff. I am in the middle of doing a top end rebuild on my grizzly 600 and was wondering if you had a link so that i could DL the service manual? Thanks Again, Jeremey
I'd try the forums at grizzlycentral, that's how I got a PDF emailed to me, just by asking. I cannot find the file anymore. The laptop I use to use died a while back, and I think that file was lost.
PLEASE TELL ME WHERE THE LINES GO AT THE BOTTOM PART OF THE CARB..I KNOW WHERE THE FUEL LINE CONNECTS ..BUT THE OTHER 2 I DONT KNOW ..I THINK THE ONE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL IS THE OVER FLOW BUT THE ONE NEXT TO THE BOWL GOES WHERE? THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP
Hey Steve, I have acquired a 1999 Grizzly that I’m having issues with. I have rebuilt the carb but it is still very hard to start and back fires like crazy. My compression is 95 and specs call for a min of 125, could that be my issue. Thanks so much
Well, my first thought is the comp numbers might be low due to the auto comp release. cranking to slow, or not having the throttle wide open, and just not thinking low comp causes your symptoms, unless it turns out to be you need a valve job. But before you go there, If the backfire is in the exhaust system, and happens on deceleration, that usually means too rich a mixture, and on thet carb, the high speed air fuel ratio is controlled by the large needle in the main jet that is automatically moved up and down by the diaphragm in the top of the carb. If you replaced that, and cleaned the carb body so the slide does move freely, then you can try adjusting it. Too adjust it, there is a tiny c clip that holds that needle into the other part. You will see there are more than one groove that clip can go in. Take note of what groove it is in, and move it one groove up, then drive it again to see if things improve. If it gets worse, move it the other way and try again. Also keep in mind bad gas can make it run like that too. My Eiger had water in the fuel, and would drive away fine, then start backfiring and lose power. So maybe start there? drain off fuel in a clean jar, hold it up to the light and see if there is any water in the bottom.
I have one just like it. It is a 2001. Mine has low compression and is not running. Gonna see with your help if I can fix it. I have done been quoted any where from 700 to 1300 to fix. It is a strong atv and a lot of help for hauling stuff. It has a 12volt plug on the front for assessors. Hope your videos helps me.
Could I be so lucky?? It was running and just shut off. Wouldn't start back. I had a dealership check it and found compression at 78. Should be 120. They were to busy...and cost was a factor also. Called several other places but they were to busy also. So here I am!!
+Michael Thomas Kelley stuck valve was my guess if it had been sitting but a sudden loss of compression makes me think broken timing chain or maybe an issue with the ACR mechanism.
Hi, I assume you mean a copy of the service manual? I only had a PDF that was emailed to me, but I have misplaced the file when I had to switch to another laptop. I got my free copy by asking for help on the Grizzly forums, it is a great sight and highly recomend it. Sorry I can't help you out right now.
stevewatr I just bought a 2000 model Grizzly 600, as I was looking for information on the atv when I ran across your videos. I was actually asking if you can send me a copy of your videos. I do not have internet in my shop and would like to view the videos on my laptop.
awesome video thank you. i have a transmission issue on mine i want to rebuild but dont know where to begin i have differential and driveshaft out. how do i remove transmission?
hi! im gonna take apart my kodiak 450 -04 some day, it have a broken timing chain. is there any good store in the us i can order parts? live in sweden northern europe. expensive as hell to buy parts over here.
Hello. I do not know if they ship to Sweden, but Babbits online is a great place to by parts. good prices. www.babbittsonline.com This is also a good place to find online parts diagrams.
Parts diagram was not much help. Looks like it is held on by 2 bolts, one longer than the other, and only one has a washer. Appears to be on the front left, or pull starter side, probably on the frame tube behind the wheel well. www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50038e0cf870021f60a0bf95/electrical-1
Someone just ignoring the fact that this 6300.oo dollar machine got flooded and just let it sit was such a waste of money and a great rig.Mine is a red 1999 and after still 26 years later still runs great....and looks like new.Of course....i took good care of mine.I watched this series long ago and here i am back again.Great content.
This has been one of the most useful series on TH-cam that I have ever seen. Sincerest thanks.
Hi Steve. I just wanted to say thank you. I rebuilt the top end of my Grizzly with complete success using nothing more than your videos as my source of info.
Glad to hear it. Always nice to hear of another machine that is not going to the scrap heap.
Thanks for all the videos of the rebuild of the top end going to help me out a lot because u was very detailed about everything. I just got one that the rings needs to be replaced. just wanted to say thanks for posting all the videos.
You are welcome. It's a good older machine. I still use it a lot, mostly pulling a large wagon.
Interesting project, I have myself a 2001 yamaha grizzly 600
You made a great series of videos with this yamaha ! Very informative ! Thank you !
This one is a model year 2000, based on the VIN number. They phased out the 600 in 2002, replaced it with the 660. Even in 2002 the 600 was limited to a metallic silver model, and I've never seen one.
How easy is a cylinder and piston job to someone with basic knowlege? I have a service manual and will be watching your video. Currently I got all the valve cover bolts off but stuck on the removal due to the stupid epoxy like gasket keeping it stuck
Let me put it to you this way, if you are mechanically inclined (good with your hands) then I'd say it is very doable. Just off the top of my head, a couple things to keep in mind. Check all parts you are reusing for wear, like the timing chain tensioner and guides. As long as you're in there, give the head some love. Like lapping the valves, and new valve stem seals. If you are not comfortable doing that, take the head to a machine shop that does this work. It should not be too expensive, and poorly seating valves will result in poor compression even with a new piston and rings. poor valve stem seals will result in burning oil. Be sure to orient the rings properly, and check the end gap. This is in the manual. Use a good quality gas tolerant sealant, regular RTV will end up failing because eventually we all end up with gas in the oil to some extent.@@Sabi1234567890Asdf
@@stevewatr appreciate the tips. Managed to get to the cylinder before I started stripping bolts and getting mad. I know the utmost basics of mechanics but that's it however i am an appliance technition by trade so i am used to working with my hands. Service manual and these videos have been a big help.
I think there are 2 that do not "go anywhere". One is a vent and one is a bowl drain line. there is a screw near where it attatches to the bowl, and when you losen the screw, you can drain the float bowl. the drain one just needs to point down, and not be in a spot it can be damaged. The vent line should be routed beck up towards the air box. That's so if you get into deep water. I think it may have had an adapter on the end to attach it to larger clear plastic tubing.
Real hard to say. I mean, I got real lucky with this one. The motor was in decent shape before they jumped it in the lake, and somehow all the electrical survived. Also I think they pulled the drain plug and drained the crankcase right away. the drain plug was missing when I got it. This probably helped minimize damage. If it sat under water for more than a day, it may have more issues than this one did, but if it's really cheap, you could take a chance, and part it out if all else fails.
Thanks! It's a great ATV, good for work, and play :-)
I've used Mystery oil on an old tractor engine that had stuck valves because it had sat over 10 years without use, and it worked great! I would not consider that hacky. On this motor I used a spray called Hil-co lube a customer gave me to try...........more videos coming soon.
Picked up mine in 2003 after a friend saw it at a guy's place who was selling everything because he was leaving the state......
I was asked to look at it, and it had parts taken off. I was able to briefly turn the crank as they took off the stator cover assy, but failed to turn it 360.......my mistake as later it only went about 180 and stopped.
I asked if he had all the missing parts, and he said yes.....I told my friend that and he bought it.
Later when they pulled it out of the crumbling garage and had a box of parts, half the electrical stuff was still missing, and when finally able to turn the crank was when I discovered it didn't turn all the way around. Considering the garage collapsed around it there wasn't much room to see this.
I told my friend all this and since he isn't able to fix it, I bought it off him.
Well little by little I bought stuff off Ebay and figured one day I'd get into the motor.....putting a camera scope in the spark plug hole showed the piston is toast, so a complete top end job is needed, so that's where I am today.
Hopefully I can bore out the cylinder, as there are still plenty of parts on Ebay if the worst case scenario is I can't.
Thanks, i've got 5 posted now, and will post more this week.
This guy is on the $$$
@@codysipes8008 Thanks!
@@stevewatr You are literally helping me rebuild a 2000 Yamaha grizzly 600. Thanks for the info!
Hey Man,
First off thanks for all the good info with the grizzly vids. Great stuff. I am in the middle of doing a top end rebuild on my grizzly 600 and was wondering if you had a link so that i could DL the service manual?
Thanks Again,
Jeremey
I'd try the forums at grizzlycentral, that's how I got a PDF emailed to me, just by asking. I cannot find the file anymore. The laptop I use to use died a while back, and I think that file was lost.
@sleblanc74 It ended up being a great old machine, would not be surprised if I get 10 more years out of it.
you the man! lots of useful information i needed!
Bryan Melton you're welcome.
PLEASE TELL ME WHERE THE LINES GO AT THE BOTTOM PART OF THE CARB..I KNOW WHERE THE FUEL LINE CONNECTS ..BUT THE OTHER 2 I DONT KNOW ..I THINK THE ONE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL IS THE OVER FLOW BUT THE ONE NEXT TO THE BOWL GOES WHERE? THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP
Does the 2001 Grizzly 600 have an adapter in the dash to hook-up an automatic spreader?
+Mary Noel I've never seen one, but then again, I never looked for one. Where would I find it, and what is it's purpose?
Hey Steve, I have acquired a 1999 Grizzly that I’m having issues with. I have rebuilt the carb but it is still very hard to start and back fires like crazy. My compression is 95 and specs call for a min of 125, could that be my issue. Thanks so much
Well, my first thought is the comp numbers might be low due to the auto comp release. cranking to slow, or not having the throttle wide open, and just not thinking low comp causes your symptoms, unless it turns out to be you need a valve job. But before you go there, If the backfire is in the exhaust system, and happens on deceleration, that usually means too rich a mixture, and on thet carb, the high speed air fuel ratio is controlled by the large needle in the main jet that is automatically moved up and down by the diaphragm in the top of the carb. If you replaced that, and cleaned the carb body so the slide does move freely, then you can try adjusting it. Too adjust it, there is a tiny c clip that holds that needle into the other part. You will see there are more than one groove that clip can go in. Take note of what groove it is in, and move it one groove up, then drive it again to see if things improve. If it gets worse, move it the other way and try again. Also keep in mind bad gas can make it run like that too. My Eiger had water in the fuel, and would drive away fine, then start backfiring and lose power. So maybe start there? drain off fuel in a clean jar, hold it up to the light and see if there is any water in the bottom.
@@stevewatr
Thanks so much for responding. I’m going to go through everything. So much appreciated.
I have one just like it. It is a 2001. Mine has low compression and is not running. Gonna see with your help if I can fix it. I have done been quoted any where from 700 to 1300 to fix. It is a strong atv and a lot of help for hauling stuff. It has a 12volt plug on the front for assessors. Hope your videos helps me.
Good luck. maybe it's just a value hanging open.
Could I be so lucky?? It was running and just shut off. Wouldn't start back. I had a dealership check it and found compression at 78. Should be 120. They were to busy...and cost was a factor also. Called several other places but they were to busy also. So here I am!!
+Michael Thomas Kelley stuck valve was my guess if it had been sitting but a sudden loss of compression makes me think broken timing chain or maybe an issue with the ACR mechanism.
Oh me! Now my heads spinning. Is there an easy way to check the chain?
+Michael Thomas Kelley you could remove one of the access covers on the head, then turn the engine over and see if the rockers are moving.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH
I need help!!!!!! I need to see a video showing to how to removed the head off a 2005 Yamaha Breeze 125cc
Babbit's online, but there are several companies that have breakdowns online.
Great video series, any chance of getting a copy?
Hi, I assume you mean a copy of the service manual? I only had a PDF that was emailed to me, but I have misplaced the file when I had to switch to another laptop. I got my free copy by asking for help on the Grizzly forums, it is a great sight and highly recomend it. Sorry I can't help you out right now.
stevewatr I just bought a 2000 model Grizzly 600, as I was looking for information on the atv when I ran across your videos. I was actually asking if you can send me a copy of your videos. I do not have internet in my shop and would like to view the videos on my laptop.
C Sullivan I moved those videos to a differant PC without internet, but I can try and transfer them back, then email. stevewatr@hotmail.com
awesome video thank you. i have a transmission issue on mine i want to rebuild but dont know where to begin i have differential and driveshaft out. how do i remove transmission?
Sorry, but I've never removed the transmission on mine. I strongly advise you check out the Grizzly repair forums here:
www.grizzlycentral.com/forum/
hi! im gonna take apart my kodiak 450 -04 some day, it have a broken timing chain. is there any good store in the us i can order parts? live in sweden northern europe. expensive as hell to buy parts over here.
Hello. I do not know if they ship to Sweden, but Babbits online is a great place to by parts. good prices. www.babbittsonline.com This is also a good place to find online parts diagrams.
stevewatr
okey thanks. nice videos you have btw.
does anyone know where the coil attaches to on the frame for the earth
Parts diagram was not much help. Looks like it is held on by 2 bolts, one longer than the other, and only one has a washer. Appears to be on the front left, or pull starter side, probably on the frame tube behind the wheel well. www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50038e0cf870021f60a0bf95/electrical-1
Do you still have it
Sure do. It was not needed for several years so its been in the weeds a long time and needs lots of love to get it going again