There have been three 'ages' of 3D printing, best I can tell. The first where people built their own and the printer WAS the hobby. The second where the manufactured units became prevalent, but still required a good understanding of how to build/upgrade the printer The third is the Bambu type. Buy it, put it down and go. Knowledge extends as far as basic maintenance and operation, not hugely in depth. For those who want a 3D printer as a tool, the third age has been a long time coming. We had an Ender 3 and 5 which were great, but ALWAYS seemed to need work doing to get a good print, calibration didn't stay in spec long and it was always a bit of a gamble if a long print would work. Bought a Bambu in December and it's night and day by comparison.
Remember, it started with bambu type printers from stratasys. Those just were expensive as shit. So the diy printers were clones of those machines, and enabled the now cheaper commercial machines. So more of a three-phase cycle.
@@jojoposter I wonder what will come out of the law suites? Kind of hard to enforce a heated patent now, when a gazillion open source designs have used this feature for years. Isn't defense of a patent partially dependent on consistently defending it?
Ultimaker build with the 2 and 3 two set it and forget it printer long before Bamboo was a thing. Only issue was that they were very expensive. But because of that easy usage they were quite popular in Maker and Hackerspaces. Prusa with the MK3 was also pretty easy to set up and to print to.
I upgraded to a Prusa MK4 last year, and I've never been happier. If you just want a tool rather than a new hobby, getting a top tier printer is definitely the way to go.
SuperfastMatt recently put out a video where he describes that he wants to use a 3d printer as a tool rather than take "3d printing as a hobby". The "works out of the box, every time, can handle exotic filaments, no fiddling required" printers like the Bambu X1 (also what he bought) have finally enabled that.
I have owned my Bambo Lab printer for around a year now. I also have had the same experience with it. Before with previous printers it was like maybe the print would be OK. So printing a part wasn’t my first choice. But with this printer I model the part and just print. It works that easy. It has become a tool instead of a fiddly experiment.
Also roughly 10 years ago I got my first 3D printer on a whim, because a local electronics store had them on sale. It turned out they weren't quite ready for the mass market, so it was heavily discounted. I knew of 3D printing and was vaguely interested in it, but didn't exactly know what I'd use it for. It was "German RepRap Neo" (neo being the model, the rest is actually a company name). It had so many design flaws and oversights that it also required a lot of tinkering and I ended up with essentially a rebuilt 3D printer based on that frame+motors. I then went the entirely opposite route from you: I noticed that 3D printing was actually a fun hobby in itself, and I started building a HyperCube Evolution (the hot DIY model at the time). Went through many iterations of hot ends and kinematics. Eventually got a cheap resin printer as well, for detail oriented prints. Also got a tiny bed slinger/cantilever printer, mostly to be sure I always got a working FDM model when I need to repair the main printer. This year I finally decided it was time to join this decade and built a Voron 2.4. It also "just works", but it's mine (and yes, that took around a week to fully complete). It's amazing how despite the different timelines, our development is essentially opposite: You started with the most DIY printer, used it for a decade (mostly happily, I think?) and then upgraded to the defacto standard "tool" version. I went from as ready-to-use as it existed 10 years ago down a rabbit hole of building and tinkering to arrive at the most DIY and modable version of your new tool. And yes, the practical performance of a Voron 2.4 and an X1 carbon are probably very comparable.
Thanks for that. I was sort of considering a Voron as well, and there are a few that are for sale in the classifieds, where I figured I could get a good deal on one. A friend here has one and there are awesome aren't they.
@@RotarySMP I'm incredibly happy with mine, though building it yourself is kind of the point. But of course buying one used is probably the smarter choice financially. I would expect one like that to also "mostly work", but it isn't quite to bamboo levels. That of course also comes with the expandability of the whole Voron ecosystem, which can be daunting or exhilarating depending on your perspective. But for anyone who really mostly wants to "just print stuff that works", and only that, the bamboo is probably just the better choice. Vorons are for those who actively want them to (also) be a hobby, while still just printing stuff. Another perspective: the manual to build the thing is a piece of art and engineering. Including the printer, hotend, "tap" (bed level sensor) and extruder the things it's roughly 500 pages of illustrated PDF. The default extruder is just a marvel, incredibly well thought out and intricate while reliable. 8 really has a blast, but also essentially worked a full-time week on it (as my holiday, semi-sick during that time, and took my time).
I just got myself a Bambu p1s. After wanting a printer for at least 10 years lol. And it’s amazing! I’m able to jump in with zero experience and there’s so many models for what I need! Only problem is I can’t decide what to print! Well and also a super minor issue, how to 3d model of course. Amazing to see the pain it used to be and the ease it is now. Can only imagine the future it will so dead simple with zero input!
Congratulations to the X1! I started my 3D experience with an Anet A8, later converted into an AM8, several years ago. In May my significant other gifted me the X1. What a game changer....
This is one of my favorite topics because it's one of the few industries I've been able to watch grow in my lifetime. I wasn't able to get in on ground zero exactly, but my first printer was a 2015 Maker Farm Pegasus, I think that would probably qualify as second generation Reprap If we were looking at things chronologically. It's almost bittersweet to see the I3 platform start to fade away. Kidding, I'm just too lazy to build another printer right now. :) If you think the modern off the shelf printers are awesome, Trust me, the enthusiast community is already light years ahead of them, it's incredible.
I had an old DIY RepRap style printer, then a Creality Ender 3 and now I have a Prusa Mk3. In my view, one of the biggest step forwards was the introduction of magnetic spring steel build plates. I tried everything to get prints to stick to the glass build plates. They either fell off before the job finished or stuck so bad they pulled chunks of glass up with the print. Regards, Preso.
Hi Mark, I really like the integration of the slicer with the printer controller, the automatic bed levelling, probing etc, and general feel that this is a sorted machine, rather than a science experiment. You are right that those textured magnetic build plates were a real game changer. I should have put one on my old printer years ago, when Hamish did :)
@@RotarySMP Does the printer have a dynamic hardware address? Hence, not being able to get the fixed IP assignment in your router cos the hardware address is changing.
@@LyallPearce 10 years ago... random MAC was new thing even on mobile phones (apple idiots introduced it in 2014). So.. very dificult that this was the case.
If lens/camera parts are stuck it’s usually an application of heat required, or a backwards thread (mostly on winding mechanisms and the like) I’d be reticent to use acetone inside the lens just in case it affects the coatings or manages to unstick lens doublets for instance.
@@RotarySMPyour printer bed has good thermal control and not too extreme temperatures. A shallow dish of sand to distribute the heat helps. Would love to know how to best do this for similar reasons. No idea how dust gets inside sealed lenses, but it does.
@@RotarySMP I’d also recommend using a strap wrench type system to unscrew. Something that can secure a strap of nylon or rubber the same thickness of the attachment surfaces on the lens. You can make the securing handle much more robust as well.
As I have told you before. I like the way you explain > it's as though you & I are there together. I have seen 3D printers from a far. Those that have worked then have done what ever & aloud me to listen in, you talked to me. Even with an interest in 3D printing with your explanation I now know better what it can do & why it will not be on my Christmas list. Thanks
I love my Bambu, but with the stock nozzle, the 'Ludicrous' speed never gave me reliable results. That was until I installed a CHT-style nozzle. E3D benchmarks are unreal, but even the cheap Chinese nozzles reduce print times by 1/3. Totally worth it upgrade. Not the same step from the old style to Core-XY, but really puts a lot of rapid prototyping within 10s of minutes or hours rather than overnight.
3D printer have come a very long way in the past 10 years, in terms of hardware, software and materials. Congrats on a very nice printer with all the bells and whistles 👍
I had plenty of issues with that type of dual infrared z probe too. We use bamboo printers at work for prototyping. Half the staff have bought bambu printers for their own too. They're not perfect but the development work bambu put in to get them working like appliances really shows. I use a seckit tank at home but only for things that the bambu's don't do as well like big abs prints.
Third Bambu printer in my subscription feed today. Which means you guys have had this for at least a week, probably longer. And have a contractual release date. Geee what a quinkydink...
Bubma byllacisa osetarep leki a c,tlu ganno hti teh fsyobna whti a weva of conetnt to reli tmeh up fro tesoh mrcoidee m.senihca
Their was no contract release date as this is a two year old printer. It sure is a hell of a lot better machine than I had. I considered a Voron, but simply don't have the time or interest is all the tuning required.
A comparison with a Makergear M2 from 2012/13 would be interesting/more equal. That machine was built like a tank, not super fast but stable and reliable with quite similar print quality as current machines. I have more issues with the modern Bambu than I ever did with the Makergear
My experience was the same, but I had buy my own X1. It is an awesome printer and money well spent. And because I’ve used it a few times to do some “Honey Do’s” I no longer have to justify the cost. 😇
Hi Jim. Yeah, it really is an impressive machine. You can really see that a whole integrated engineering team was involved, with all the disciplines covered.
your home router is what gives the IP - you need to login to that and look at DHCP reservation, if you set the MAC address of the printer and choose and IP, everytime it requests a new address, you'll know what it gets :)
I remember we tried to set that up, but for some reason could not force it to a fix IP. Since I worked out that I could find it with ipscanner, it didn't bother me much.
The Bambu will completely change your view of 3D printed parts. So simple to use that you will find joy in printing. Anytime you say ‘I wonder…..’ can be printed without hardly any effort. And then you can quickly print out prototypes to confirm design features prior to something you plan the machine. And after you do that a few times you might start saying to yourself….. will plastic work instead of metal? My biggest surprise was the first time I ventured in using TPU95. Printed very fast without any stringing. Such an under appreciated material. Flexibility can be tuned with infill. It’s Uv stable for outdoor projects. My most important tip is get a food dehydrator and always make sure TPU and PETG materials are dry before using. I’ve never had any failure or stringy prints since. Have fun.
I went from some unreliable home-built CoreXY printer to a Prusa MK2 to a Prusa MK3S+ to a Bambu X1C w/ AMS. The MK3S+ hasn't been used in over a year now and just collects dust. The X1C has been nearly flawless for me. There are some good mods for a better filament wiper, a new set of AMS plates for if you use Prusa spools, and a mess of other things.
Now that machine really deserves the name 3d printer, as it is as easy to setup from the looks of it like any normal old printer, I always found 3d printers fascninating but I was more into the printing itself and not fittleing around with a machine, at least for this type of work.
13:00 Acetone and optics. That brings back memories for me. Years ago, I treated a group of lenses with acetone. Unfortunately, the metal was made of plastic which was dissolved by the acetone. 🤦😅
I recently bought a a1 mini because I got tired of having to fix stuff/perform maintenance on my Prusa mk3s and it's been a dream so far. Really fast, accurate and just an absolute dream so far. And the tool changer just works, as opposed to the Prusa MMU3s which has been one of the worst purchases I've ever done, it never worked properly... what a terrible product.
The Tiertime UP!/Affinia printers from 2011 were about double the cost of the X1 but were much closer to a tool that just worked than most of the commercially produced repraps ever were, even today.
I too love the simplicity of these. Main downside for me was the printed parts for repair were only available in a proprietary format so I couldn't print them on my reprap. Solution? 2x afinia to have a spare.
@@RotarySMP I run a small telescope shop, stuck filters with thin walls are a common issue. The spanner won't work because 3d prints are too slippery. I use laser cut ABS spanners I order online but you could try carbon fiber filament as it will have a bit more grip. Those layer lines act almost like a bearing surface
My biggest issue with my X1 has been PLA breaking inside the AMS feed tubes after I don't use the printer for a while (weeks, months). That seemed to be fixed by unloading all the filament so it's entirely inside the AMS with some desiccant packs when I'm done printing. From that I assume it's a moisture absorption issue. I've also had a lot of issues with parts warping off the build plate, but using brims, tweaking temp settings and letting the build plate warm up an extra 10 minutes before starting a print seems to have fixed all of that.
Thanks for you feedback on that John. I never realised that PLA or other plastics were Hygrocopic, till I started looking at X1C videos. I need to collect a bunch of silica gel, dry it, and print some dessicant tubs for the printer.
My first was a printbot model. Best way I ever found to set Z height ( In my opinion is the worst) was to spend about a week with a 12X12 granite tile a caliper, and about 50 hours of using a 50X50X12mm piece of alumimunto make a poor mans gauge block. Then it was just a matter of using a multimeter to level the bed via continuity.
Thanks. I never really picked up that these plastics are hygroscopic till I started looking at Bambu lab videos. Normally the Wiener90 prints better than that, but it has been a hot humid summer here.
Nice new toy err tool ! I don't own a 3d printer (as a metalworker I consider them the enemy😉) . My employer sold 3D systems printers back in the later 90s ,for a lot of money. DIY and now prebuilt consumer machine have come a long way. I've always wondered what the needed viewership for attracting the attention of companies, now I have a better idea.
@@RotarySMP Of course if I was to be completely honest , about 50% of that employers sales came from selling cnc machines to the many plastic mold making shops around Ontario. So I guess I do like plastic.
I waited to get into 3d printing until the ender pro came out. At that point it was finally looking reliable and affordable. Other than a direct drive kit it's stock. I can go out and print something and it usually works though it has it's attitudes when it doesn't want to. I would say that 3d printers have made a massive leap in the past 3 years now. I do want a new printer but I want a larger bed printer and those are finally hitting the market. Larger as in rectangle shaped for longer parts. That said I have had the Bambu printer on my wish list for the better half to get me for Christmas or my birthday 2 days later. The only problem I have printing is the heat. Mine is in my shop and I can\t print anything out there in the summer as the prints fail because it's over 100*. What also mazes me is how far the software has come in just a couple years and now with the 3d scanners getting affordable I want one of those too. My cad fu is poor now and I'm too lazy to measure everything.
Hi Robert, yeah, the software control of these printers is amazing. This is a beast of a machine. I though a hot environment is what you need to ABS. Have you tried that in your garage?
@@RotarySMP I kept thinking about getting a roll of ABS since the temps would be good for it but I never did... Too hot to spend more than a few minutes out there unless I turn the ac on the night before. The problem with the PLA in that heat is that the part cooling doesn't work at those ambient temps. I really want a printer with a 12"x24" or so bed as that's the size stuff I want to print. For mold bucks etc. I was building cnc routers when the 3d printers started out. The hardware cost was enormous then and I was using acme screws. Now ball screws and linear guides are not awesome quality but cheap and work well.
Re the infrared reflective Z axis sensor on your old machine, they are really sketchy sensing glass. If you out a spot of white matte paint on the glass, or a piece of white matte paper sticker, it should be much more reliable sensing the height. BUT with that cool new machine you probably wont use the old printer now anyway! 😎
It was sensitive to which side of the glass was floated. I couldn't get it to home until I flipped the glass sheet, but since then I dont think the surface is the issue. I doesnt take much to bump that little PCB and have it shift by about 0.1mm
@@RotarySMP wow 0.1mm is pushing the limits of a sensor like that anyway! Ambient IR from room lights or nearby hot objects could easily cause 0.1mm difference in the reading.
You need to try ABS GF25 with the heated chamber. I use it a lot on my Qidi and it's my goto filament as it has no-warp, nice finish and good strength.
Finally a new printer! This must make 3D printing much easier for you. I think some of the problems you have with the old printer is old brittle filament and moisture, but that old hardware and control board won't make things easy. You could change the board to marlin and/or klipper, make a new tool head, and change the extruder, but the X1 carbon will be miles ahead anyways, so why bother.
Good points Bill. Until I started looking at X1C videos, I didn't even realise moisture was such an issue with filament. Some of mine are years old. There are some PLA colors/brands which were so brittle they'd snap on the way to the head.
A little gentle heat (on a pan or hotplate) may be in order if there is no plastic in the lens. I'm told applying ponds cold cream to is the go-to fungus killer, followed by a good clean, then rub your finger on the side of your nose and wipe the resulting 'nose oil' on the glass then clean and reassemble (fungus treatment is advice from 1970's Olympus techs).
@@RotarySMP not really sure, I'd imagine just enough to soften any locking compound or glue that might be in the threads - I heated a seized helical to about 80C once. Problem is the heat might upset your printed spanners. Wild guess though... :)
@@RotarySMP I Fixed a few old Contax Zeiss lenens, that were glued/loctite. I used a hair dryer to heat the lens up. Worked much better than solvents in my experiende. If had to guess they reached about 70 C
As others have said, assuming the device has a proper fixed MAC address, you ought to be able to make a DHCP reservation on your DHCP server (likely on your router). Failing that, lots of devices have the ability to set a fixed IP addreas for cases where thats desirable (eg. A network which doesnt have a DHCP Server
We gave it a go, but I gave up and just use IP scanner each time. Only takes a few seconds. Then again, I doubt that printer will get much use going forward.
I think the Ender 3 was the turning point with useable 3D printers. I had to do very little to mine to get it perfect I use it every few weeks and get perfect prints every time. Bambu labs have ramped up the speed and ease of use to next level though - a printer that anyone can use? 😀
That's pretty cool. Congrats on the free stuff. Thanks Bambu! Very keen to see what you come up with next Mark, you always seem to have some good ideas that are fun and relatable.
@@RotarySMP no left hand threads, but maybe thread lock!. Our lenses had a slot in the ring and we used a flat adjustable plate with pegs that located in the slots. Sometimes held the plate in a vice and unscrewed the ring. Used old inner tube rubber to grip the outer housing.
@@petertitterton6836 They certainly used some sort if lacquer as a thread lock, but I tried abot 5 minutes of keeping that joint moist with acetone without luck so far. Next attempt with heat.
To be fairrr, the bambu must be at least 2x cost I wanted to start and a friend had a Lulzbot Mini lying around (3mm filament, 2015?), I used it once or twice and then ended up just grabbing a basic Ender V3 SE and with basic PLA it was much easier to use A bambu would be a dream, I need ABS or similar higher temp for Australian heat
@@RotarySMP I have the P1S, the main differences are the camera is only 0.5 fps on the P1 and there's no lidar for auto calibration, and no AI spaghetti detection.
A big hammer might get the two lens apart, not sure about being able to use the lens after such an event. maybe some sort of strap wrench or ratcheting strap? maybe try tightening first, just to make sure they are not left handed threads? Or... send it off to a professional? Happy Sunday!
The middle layer failures are from a partial clog. A cold pull should set you right. Might see what temp it runs after the first layers. I have more issues with slicers than machines. That said, the X1C is a superior machine.
You can set your ip address for anything on your local network as long as you have the MAC address of the device. Log into your router go to DHCP settings. There should be a page to input the MAC address and the IP address you want the device to have. Save the settings in your router. Go to the device and Set the device to use DHCP. And reboot the device. Your device will pick up the IP address you saved in your router.
Thanks a lot. That friend Hamish , who design the printer is great at network stuff, and we once tried to set a static IP on the router. I can't remember why we failed, but we did. Since I worked out that IP Scanner finds it immediately, it doesn't really bother me much.
If it’s the costs that are stopping you, you can get into the hobby for fairly cheap. I bought, a few months ago, a new Ender 3 S1 and a parts one (long story), for a total of $90.
@@RotarySMP honestly i get that, seeing most of your vids are actual CnC machines. which i hope to have some myself some day... if you want some help and advice with 3d printers you can always message me if youd like, i design my own machines!
I disappointed you didn't add tpu to the inside ring of the wrench instead of the rubber. Tpu sticks to petg You have the tool changer and the tpu filament!
I was worried about over heating the lens, but someone put 2 and 2 together, and recommended I use the printers heater bed for nice controlled heating.
Thinking about getting one for some time now. Thank you for an honest review………. Now I have to find some space in the workshop🙈 ………shouldn’t you print some kind of sailing boat in reference to the ongoing americas cup😂 you could even use some sort of carbon fiber filament 😜 man these boats are crazy pushing speeds up to almost 60 knots.
Amazing the quality from the old to the new. Have been looking to buy a bamboo lab but the price is still out side my budget, maybe when the price is lower
There are some tests from professionals which would indicate that the Bambu A1 has even better print quality (within it's limitations as an open printer).
@@RotarySMP I'm sure someone will manage to jailbreak and release a klipper firmware for it. I stay away from walled garden software / firmware in general, but that's just me :)
could be fun to try and convert the old 3d printer into a mini cnc mill/router with a super high speed spindle for when needing to make small features on small parts where you need those small tools
Those long, unsupported 10mm rods used as linear guides on the 3D printer are way too flexible for any useful machining. Remember, I also have a dormant project lurking in the basement which is a small router style mill with proper liner rails.
@@RotarySMP thats fair. personally if i where to start a project like that i would try and use/make hydrostatic boxways. even or morel likely becuase its a small machine since its not as big its easier to make then for a big one and wince its small its also not gonna have a ton of power in its axis so if i can remove the stick slip effect that way its well worth it to me ( plus its zero wear on the ways then ) but thats just me ( the danish guy that also wanna take a SCHAUBLIN 125 C or a Weiler Primus and make them hydrostatic in both there way's and spindle bearings ( maybe even change there srews and rack`n penion to two oppersit mounted proloaded hydraulic piston's )
Is that a lens off a Polaroid Land camera? I ended up having to drill two holes in mine to get a lens spanner on it, not sure why it doesn’t have the usual slots for one. Friction bungs made from rubber can work and don’t leave marks but I’m about 50-50 on success there.
Yes, from a 180. This is the front lens group. I used a bung to unscrew it from the shutter, but cant seem to get the unit apart. There are two tiny spanner grooves, but on the opposite side from where you can put a spanner. I wonder if it could be a LH thread?
@@RotarySMP Didn't show up on the big screen, but visible on phone. So yeah, it's marked, and if anything, a problem with how TH-cam manages it. Thanks.
@@RotarySMP Now it's also visible on the big screen. One note though, since I recently installed the same printer for a customer - you can completely disable the cloud features via the touch screen. Means that your files get directly uploaded to the printer, which is faster and more privacy-oriented.
@@graealex I figured I would leave it cloud enabled initially, till it has proven reliability. I am not too sensitive to privacy for that sort of little parts and projects I am printing.
Im stuck in a cycle of not using my printer enough that every time i want to i have to fix it/set it up again, but i dont use it enough to justify buying a better one
I have certainly normally had better results than that. Given that the Z probe height was often wrong and nozzle got dragged around on the glass, I wonder if the nozzle hole is worn or distorted?
Tell me about it. I have a bunch of old 3mm PLA which was given to me. The Yellow is not too bad, but there was some blue which was uselss. Just kept snapping off during feed.
Yes, it is their top end printer, but have you seen the comparisons with the P1 and A1? It seems the more recent A1 has the best print quality of all, if you dont need an enclosure.
i dont think moisture is your problem at all,pla is quite unaffwcted by moisture..i have reels hanging in the ceeling of my workshop open and been hanging there for years..take one down, cut off the first meter,set it in the machine and it goes to town - however i think your problem is underextrusion..dosnt show well on big and flat pieces, but quite well on smaller things..eighter the extruder is skipping steps or just to little flow..or even dirt in the gears or worn gears the AMs is the reason why i woud like a bambulab, but the printsize stops me from getting one - to small for my taste
@@RotarySMP Clough42 also just received one , you might find the desiccant holders that he printed for the filiment magazine useful for yours. He includes a link to the original designer
Well those things are incredibly cool, and some guys on here like "Wesley Kagan" (incredible channel by the way) even have one , but they are in the 250k + range, are HUGE, and need awfully expensive powder to work and sometimes a sinteroven and sandblaster to work right But if you donate that money, I'm sure rotarySMP will get one 😂
There have been three 'ages' of 3D printing, best I can tell.
The first where people built their own and the printer WAS the hobby.
The second where the manufactured units became prevalent, but still required a good understanding of how to build/upgrade the printer
The third is the Bambu type. Buy it, put it down and go. Knowledge extends as far as basic maintenance and operation, not hugely in depth.
For those who want a 3D printer as a tool, the third age has been a long time coming. We had an Ender 3 and 5 which were great, but ALWAYS seemed to need work doing to get a good print, calibration didn't stay in spec long and it was always a bit of a gamble if a long print would work. Bought a Bambu in December and it's night and day by comparison.
Remember, it started with bambu type printers from stratasys. Those just were expensive as shit.
So the diy printers were clones of those machines, and enabled the now cheaper commercial machines. So more of a three-phase cycle.
That is a really good summary. Thanks. Pinned!
@@jojoposter I wonder what will come out of the law suites? Kind of hard to enforce a heated patent now, when a gazillion open source designs have used this feature for years. Isn't defense of a patent partially dependent on consistently defending it?
Ultimaker build with the 2 and 3 two set it and forget it printer long before Bamboo was a thing. Only issue was that they were very expensive. But because of that easy usage they were quite popular in Maker and Hackerspaces. Prusa with the MK3 was also pretty easy to set up and to print to.
@@Toxicity1987 It is cool how far printers have come in a decade.
Finally all your TH-cam-efforts are paying off. You deserve it.
Thanks a lot Willem. It was very generous of Bambu to provide this printer.
I upgraded to a Prusa MK4 last year, and I've never been happier. If you just want a tool rather than a new hobby, getting a top tier printer is definitely the way to go.
I agree Tom. The usablity is night and day.
SuperfastMatt recently put out a video where he describes that he wants to use a 3d printer as a tool rather than take "3d printing as a hobby". The "works out of the box, every time, can handle exotic filaments, no fiddling required" printers like the Bambu X1 (also what he bought) have finally enabled that.
@@oohshiny8713 I saw that one. It is a very good summary.
I have owned my Bambo Lab printer for around a year now. I also have had the same experience with it. Before with previous printers it was like maybe the print would be OK. So printing a part wasn’t my first choice. But with this printer I model the part and just print. It works that easy. It has become a tool instead of a fiddly experiment.
Hi Peter. Glad to hear of your long term experience.
Hello Mark! Once again you’ve picked some terrific jazz to fill the soundscape. Love the Krupa vibe to the piece that backs up your Bambu setup. 👍
Hi Doric, Glad you enjoyed that.
Also roughly 10 years ago I got my first 3D printer on a whim, because a local electronics store had them on sale. It turned out they weren't quite ready for the mass market, so it was heavily discounted. I knew of 3D printing and was vaguely interested in it, but didn't exactly know what I'd use it for. It was "German RepRap Neo" (neo being the model, the rest is actually a company name). It had so many design flaws and oversights that it also required a lot of tinkering and I ended up with essentially a rebuilt 3D printer based on that frame+motors. I then went the entirely opposite route from you: I noticed that 3D printing was actually a fun hobby in itself, and I started building a HyperCube Evolution (the hot DIY model at the time). Went through many iterations of hot ends and kinematics. Eventually got a cheap resin printer as well, for detail oriented prints. Also got a tiny bed slinger/cantilever printer, mostly to be sure I always got a working FDM model when I need to repair the main printer. This year I finally decided it was time to join this decade and built a Voron 2.4. It also "just works", but it's mine (and yes, that took around a week to fully complete).
It's amazing how despite the different timelines, our development is essentially opposite: You started with the most DIY printer, used it for a decade (mostly happily, I think?) and then upgraded to the defacto standard "tool" version. I went from as ready-to-use as it existed 10 years ago down a rabbit hole of building and tinkering to arrive at the most DIY and modable version of your new tool. And yes, the practical performance of a Voron 2.4 and an X1 carbon are probably very comparable.
Thanks for that. I was sort of considering a Voron as well, and there are a few that are for sale in the classifieds, where I figured I could get a good deal on one. A friend here has one and there are awesome aren't they.
@@RotarySMP I'm incredibly happy with mine, though building it yourself is kind of the point. But of course buying one used is probably the smarter choice financially. I would expect one like that to also "mostly work", but it isn't quite to bamboo levels. That of course also comes with the expandability of the whole Voron ecosystem, which can be daunting or exhilarating depending on your perspective. But for anyone who really mostly wants to "just print stuff that works", and only that, the bamboo is probably just the better choice. Vorons are for those who actively want them to (also) be a hobby, while still just printing stuff.
Another perspective: the manual to build the thing is a piece of art and engineering. Including the printer, hotend, "tap" (bed level sensor) and extruder the things it's roughly 500 pages of illustrated PDF. The default extruder is just a marvel, incredibly well thought out and intricate while reliable. 8 really has a blast, but also essentially worked a full-time week on it (as my holiday, semi-sick during that time, and took my time).
I just got myself a Bambu p1s. After wanting a printer for at least 10 years lol. And it’s amazing! I’m able to jump in with zero experience and there’s so many models for what I need! Only problem is I can’t decide what to print! Well and also a super minor issue, how to 3d model of course. Amazing to see the pain it used to be and the ease it is now. Can only imagine the future it will so dead simple with zero input!
Yeah, Bambu collected a lot of good ideas together, and integrated them very well.
Congratulations to the X1! I started my 3D experience with an Anet A8, later converted into an AM8, several years ago. In May my significant other gifted me the X1. What a game changer....
It really is an impressive bit of engineering. Feel like a holistic design, and not a bunch of tacked together bits.
I've had my X1c for nearly 2 years and it's just worked as expected. No fiddling required
Glad to hear that it keeps working this well for the long term. Thanks.
This is one of my favorite topics because it's one of the few industries I've been able to watch grow in my lifetime. I wasn't able to get in on ground zero exactly, but my first printer was a 2015 Maker Farm Pegasus, I think that would probably qualify as second generation Reprap If we were looking at things chronologically. It's almost bittersweet to see the I3 platform start to fade away. Kidding, I'm just too lazy to build another printer right now. :) If you think the modern off the shelf printers are awesome, Trust me, the enthusiast community is already light years ahead of them, it's incredible.
I have a mate local who is really on that edge of open source printers, and his modified Voron is also really impressive.
@@RotarySMPThose are pretty sweet! I think my next one's gonna be a VzBoT with a HevORT bottom end.
I had an old DIY RepRap style printer, then a Creality Ender 3 and now I have a Prusa Mk3. In my view, one of the biggest step forwards was the introduction of magnetic spring steel build plates. I tried everything to get prints to stick to the glass build plates. They either fell off before the job finished or stuck so bad they pulled chunks of glass up with the print.
Regards, Preso.
Hi Mark,
I really like the integration of the slicer with the printer controller, the automatic bed levelling, probing etc, and general feel that this is a sorted machine, rather than a science experiment. You are right that those textured magnetic build plates were a real game changer. I should have put one on my old printer years ago, when Hamish did :)
You can probably assign a static ip address to your wiener in the dhcp server on your router. 🤭
I had a play with that with my mate Hamish who designed it, but never got it to stick.
@@RotarySMP Does the printer have a dynamic hardware address? Hence, not being able to get the fixed IP assignment in your router cos the hardware address is changing.
Yup - The wifi device needs a static MAC address for the router to work with
@@throblet Once I worked out that I can easily find the prinder with IP Scanner it stopped bothering me :)
@@LyallPearce 10 years ago... random MAC was new thing even on mobile phones (apple idiots introduced it in 2014).
So.. very dificult that this was the case.
Perfect!
On Friday I shorted my list to Bamu Lab A1 or Bambu Lab A1 Mini.
This video confirmed my decision.
Enjoy it.
If lens/camera parts are stuck it’s usually an application of heat required, or a backwards thread (mostly on winding mechanisms and the like) I’d be reticent to use acetone inside the lens just in case it affects the coatings or manages to unstick lens doublets for instance.
Yeah, I am pretty cautious about applying heat to something like this, but might have to.
@@RotarySMPyour printer bed has good thermal control and not too extreme temperatures. A shallow dish of sand to distribute the heat helps. Would love to know how to best do this for similar reasons. No idea how dust gets inside sealed lenses, but it does.
@@TheBakafish Oh, that is an excellent idea. I can gently heat it about 60°C and then try to unscrew it.
@@RotarySMP I’d also recommend using a strap wrench type system to unscrew. Something that can secure a strap of nylon or rubber the same thickness of the attachment surfaces on the lens. You can make the securing handle much more robust as well.
@@BenNorell The surfaces to grip on are only 5mm, and 6mm wide. I made the spanners 6mm wide.
As I have told you before. I like the way you explain > it's as though you & I are there together. I have seen 3D printers from a far. Those that have worked then have done what ever & aloud me to listen in, you talked to me. Even with an interest in 3D printing with your explanation I now know better what it can do & why it will not be on my Christmas list.
Thanks
Hi Colin, I am glad that video was useful to you.
I love my Bambu, but with the stock nozzle, the 'Ludicrous' speed never gave me reliable results. That was until I installed a CHT-style nozzle. E3D benchmarks are unreal, but even the cheap Chinese nozzles reduce print times by 1/3. Totally worth it upgrade. Not the same step from the old style to Core-XY, but really puts a lot of rapid prototyping within 10s of minutes or hours rather than overnight.
Thanks for the tip. I haven't tried setting like ludicrous, as this is already so much faster than I am used to.
Nice. You convinced me to pull the cobwebs off my printer.
Hi Vince, good one.
3D printer have come a very long way in the past 10 years, in terms of hardware, software and materials. Congrats on a very nice printer with all the bells and whistles 👍
Thanks, it really is a big upgrade.
I had plenty of issues with that type of dual infrared z probe too.
We use bamboo printers at work for prototyping. Half the staff have bought bambu printers for their own too. They're not perfect but the development work bambu put in to get them working like appliances really shows. I use a seckit tank at home but only for things that the bambu's don't do as well like big abs prints.
Thanks for your feedback Max. You really see that this machine was engineered by a team.
What a cool tool! Very well done video 👍👍
Thank you Leonie :)
Third Bambu printer in my subscription feed today. Which means you guys have had this for at least a week, probably longer. And have a contractual release date. Geee what a quinkydink...
Bubma byllacisa osetarep leki a c,tlu ganno hti teh fsyobna whti a weva of conetnt to reli tmeh up fro tesoh mrcoidee m.senihca
Their was no contract release date as this is a two year old printer.
It sure is a hell of a lot better machine than I had. I considered a Voron, but simply don't have the time or interest is all the tuning required.
A comparison with a Makergear M2 from 2012/13 would be interesting/more equal. That machine was built like a tank, not super fast but stable and reliable with quite similar print quality as current machines. I have more issues with the modern Bambu than I ever did with the Makergear
What issues is your Bambu causing you?
My experience was the same, but I had buy my own X1. It is an awesome printer and money well spent. And because I’ve used it a few times to do some “Honey Do’s” I no longer have to justify the cost. 😇
Hi Jim. Yeah, it really is an impressive machine. You can really see that a whole integrated engineering team was involved, with all the disciplines covered.
your home router is what gives the IP - you need to login to that and look at DHCP reservation, if you set the MAC address of the printer and choose and IP, everytime it requests a new address, you'll know what it gets :)
I remember we tried to set that up, but for some reason could not force it to a fix IP. Since I worked out that I could find it with ipscanner, it didn't bother me much.
You didn't print the little tug boat! It does look like a fine and useful bit if kit, thank you Bambu!
Yeah, I figured there is nothing to be gained in printing yet another Benchy.
Uploading earlier means I can watch before my bedtime.
I often struggle to get my videos finished for this deadline :)
@@RotarySMPthis is perfect timing for us CET guys 😊
@@SorteBill1514 Thanks for the feedback on that.
The Bambu will completely change your view of 3D printed parts. So simple to use that you will find joy in printing. Anytime you say ‘I wonder…..’ can be printed without hardly any effort. And then you can quickly print out prototypes to confirm design features prior to something you plan the machine. And after you do that a few times you might start saying to yourself….. will plastic work instead of metal? My biggest surprise was the first time I ventured in using TPU95. Printed very fast without any stringing. Such an under appreciated material. Flexibility can be tuned with infill. It’s Uv stable for outdoor projects. My most important tip is get a food dehydrator and always make sure TPU and PETG materials are dry before using. I’ve never had any failure or stringy prints since. Have fun.
Thanks Joel. I never realised how hygroscopic these plastics are, until I started watching X1C videos :)
I went from some unreliable home-built CoreXY printer to a Prusa MK2 to a Prusa MK3S+ to a Bambu X1C w/ AMS. The MK3S+ hasn't been used in over a year now and just collects dust. The X1C has been nearly flawless for me. There are some good mods for a better filament wiper, a new set of AMS plates for if you use Prusa spools, and a mess of other things.
G'day JC. I first saw prints on an X1C with my mate Stefano in Chigago. Wow, what a step forward.
Now that machine really deserves the name 3d printer, as it is as easy to setup from the looks of it like any normal old printer, I always found 3d printers fascninating but I was more into the printing itself and not fittleing around with a machine, at least for this type of work.
Yep, that is the same for me.
13:00 Acetone and optics. That brings back memories for me. Years ago, I treated a group of lenses with acetone. Unfortunately, the metal was made of plastic which was dissolved by the acetone. 🤦😅
Ouch. I am pretty sure these are glass.
I recently bought a a1 mini because I got tired of having to fix stuff/perform maintenance on my Prusa mk3s and it's been a dream so far. Really fast, accurate and just an absolute dream so far. And the tool changer just works, as opposed to the Prusa MMU3s which has been one of the worst purchases I've ever done, it never worked properly... what a terrible product.
Thanks for the feedback. Those A1's get really good reviews.
The Tiertime UP!/Affinia printers from 2011 were about double the cost of the X1 but were much closer to a tool that just worked than most of the commercially produced repraps ever were, even today.
Thanks, I hadn't heard of them.
I too love the simplicity of these. Main downside for me was the printed parts for repair were only available in a proprietary format so I couldn't print them on my reprap. Solution? 2x afinia to have a spare.
Keep the lens on the printer bed and gently heat for a while. Get it to heat gently so as not to shock the glass. Sometimes works
Great idea. The heat control was something I was worried about.
@@RotarySMP I run a small telescope shop, stuck filters with thin walls are a common issue. The spanner won't work because 3d prints are too slippery. I use laser cut ABS spanners I order online but you could try carbon fiber filament as it will have a bit more grip. Those layer lines act almost like a bearing surface
My biggest issue with my X1 has been PLA breaking inside the AMS feed tubes after I don't use the printer for a while (weeks, months). That seemed to be fixed by unloading all the filament so it's entirely inside the AMS with some desiccant packs when I'm done printing. From that I assume it's a moisture absorption issue. I've also had a lot of issues with parts warping off the build plate, but using brims, tweaking temp settings and letting the build plate warm up an extra 10 minutes before starting a print seems to have fixed all of that.
Thanks for you feedback on that John. I never realised that PLA or other plastics were Hygrocopic, till I started looking at X1C videos. I need to collect a bunch of silica gel, dry it, and print some dessicant tubs for the printer.
My first was a printbot model. Best way I ever found to set Z height ( In my opinion is the worst) was to spend about a week with a 12X12 granite tile a caliper, and about 50 hours of using a 50X50X12mm piece of alumimunto make a poor mans gauge block. Then it was just a matter of using a multimeter to level the bed via continuity.
I did it with feeler gauges. I much prefer the machine to deal with this itself :)
good video RotarySMP
Thanks a lot.
Yes those defects can be largely explained by moist PLA. It really does make a big difference. HiPS also suffers from this badly
Thanks. I never really picked up that these plastics are hygroscopic till I started looking at Bambu lab videos. Normally the Wiener90 prints better than that, but it has been a hot humid summer here.
Nice new toy err tool ! I don't own a 3d printer (as a metalworker I consider them the enemy😉) .
My employer sold 3D systems printers back in the later 90s ,for a lot of money. DIY and now prebuilt consumer machine
have come a long way.
I've always wondered what the needed viewership for attracting the attention of companies, now I have a better idea.
I am also not that keen on working in plastic, but having a printer like this is a really good tool to save some problems.
@@RotarySMP Of course if I was to be completely honest , about 50% of that employers sales came from
selling cnc machines to the many plastic mold making shops around Ontario. So I guess I do like plastic.
@@steveggca Good customers :)
You need to paint the Bambu panels pink!
You are not the first to suggest that...my family feel the same way Joel :)
I waited to get into 3d printing until the ender pro came out. At that point it was finally looking reliable and affordable. Other than a direct drive kit it's stock. I can go out and print something and it usually works though it has it's attitudes when it doesn't want to. I would say that 3d printers have made a massive leap in the past 3 years now. I do want a new printer but I want a larger bed printer and those are finally hitting the market. Larger as in rectangle shaped for longer parts. That said I have had the Bambu printer on my wish list for the better half to get me for Christmas or my birthday 2 days later.
The only problem I have printing is the heat. Mine is in my shop and I can\t print anything out there in the summer as the prints fail because it's over 100*.
What also mazes me is how far the software has come in just a couple years and now with the 3d scanners getting affordable I want one of those too. My cad fu is poor now and I'm too lazy to measure everything.
Hi Robert, yeah, the software control of these printers is amazing. This is a beast of a machine. I though a hot environment is what you need to ABS. Have you tried that in your garage?
@@RotarySMP I kept thinking about getting a roll of ABS since the temps would be good for it but I never did... Too hot to spend more than a few minutes out there unless I turn the ac on the night before.
The problem with the PLA in that heat is that the part cooling doesn't work at those ambient temps. I really want a printer with a 12"x24" or so bed as that's the size stuff I want to print. For mold bucks etc.
I was building cnc routers when the 3d printers started out. The hardware cost was enormous then and I was using acme screws. Now ball screws and linear guides are not awesome quality but cheap and work well.
Re the infrared reflective Z axis sensor on your old machine, they are really sketchy sensing glass.
If you out a spot of white matte paint on the glass, or a piece of white matte paper sticker, it should be much more reliable sensing the height.
BUT with that cool new machine you probably wont use the old printer now anyway! 😎
It was sensitive to which side of the glass was floated. I couldn't get it to home until I flipped the glass sheet, but since then I dont think the surface is the issue. I doesnt take much to bump that little PCB and have it shift by about 0.1mm
@@RotarySMP wow 0.1mm is pushing the limits of a sensor like that anyway! Ambient IR from room lights or nearby hot objects could easily cause 0.1mm difference in the reading.
Setting a static IP address is usually something that you do in your router settings.
Yeah, we tried that, but for some reason were unable to make it work, or stick.
You need to try ABS GF25 with the heated chamber. I use it a lot on my Qidi and it's my goto filament as it has no-warp, nice finish and good strength.
Thanks. I need to work through each of the filaments I received.
Slap a RIDGA extruder and a carbon fiber bed on that mendel, and install klipper, then the one's gathering dust is the bambu instead.
I dont doubt home built can be state of the art, but then the printer is the project.
Finally a new printer! This must make 3D printing much easier for you.
I think some of the problems you have with the old printer is old brittle filament and moisture, but that old hardware and control board won't make things easy.
You could change the board to marlin and/or klipper, make a new tool head, and change the extruder, but the X1 carbon will be miles ahead anyways, so why bother.
Good points Bill. Until I started looking at X1C videos, I didn't even realise moisture was such an issue with filament. Some of mine are years old. There are some PLA colors/brands which were so brittle they'd snap on the way to the head.
A little gentle heat (on a pan or hotplate) may be in order if there is no plastic in the lens. I'm told applying ponds cold cream to is the go-to fungus killer, followed by a good clean, then rub your finger on the side of your nose and wipe the resulting 'nose oil' on the glass then clean and reassemble (fungus treatment is advice from 1970's Olympus techs).
What temp would you try first? I have some hydrogen peroxide, and was going to clean the fungus with that.
@@RotarySMP not really sure, I'd imagine just enough to soften any locking compound or glue that might be in the threads - I heated a seized helical to about 80C once. Problem is the heat might upset your printed spanners. Wild guess though... :)
@@greaser5691 Good point :)
@@RotarySMP I Fixed a few old Contax Zeiss lenens, that were glued/loctite. I used a hair dryer to heat the lens up. Worked much better than solvents in my experiende. If had to guess they reached about 70 C
@@anasel-mahdi2185 Thanks for that. Is there any likelyhood that this could be a left hand thread?
As others have said, assuming the device has a proper fixed MAC address, you ought to be able to make a DHCP reservation on your DHCP server (likely on your router).
Failing that, lots of devices have the ability to set a fixed IP addreas for cases where thats desirable (eg. A network which doesnt have a DHCP Server
We gave it a go, but I gave up and just use IP scanner each time. Only takes a few seconds. Then again, I doubt that printer will get much use going forward.
I think the Ender 3 was the turning point with useable 3D printers. I had to do very little to mine to get it perfect I use it every few weeks and get perfect prints every time. Bambu labs have ramped up the speed and ease of use to next level though - a printer that anyone can use? 😀
It is really going that way. From the videos though these printers seem to still need some maintenance, which is probably beyond most people.
That's pretty cool. Congrats on the free stuff. Thanks Bambu! Very keen to see what you come up with next Mark, you always seem to have some good ideas that are fun and relatable.
Thanks a lot for your feedback Rick.
You may find that the lens fungus has damaged the lens coatings. It was quite common when I was in the trade. But I have been retired many years now.
I dont doubt that, but would still like to stop it growing further. Did you ever encounter LH threads on a lens like this?
@@RotarySMP no left hand threads, but maybe thread lock!. Our lenses had a slot in the ring and we used a flat adjustable plate with pegs that located in the slots. Sometimes held the plate in a vice and unscrewed the ring. Used old inner tube rubber to grip the outer housing.
@@petertitterton6836 They certainly used some sort if lacquer as a thread lock, but I tried abot 5 minutes of keeping that joint moist with acetone without luck so far. Next attempt with heat.
@@RotarySMP remembering back we used black nail varnish to lock screws. I got some strange looks when getting new supplies!
There should be a setting in your routers DHCP to assign a static IP based on mac address so the printer gets assigned the same IP every time.
Hamish who designed it, and I tried to set this up with my router a fair while ago, but failed. :/
To be fairrr, the bambu must be at least 2x cost
I wanted to start and a friend had a Lulzbot Mini lying around (3mm filament, 2015?), I used it once or twice and then ended up just grabbing a basic Ender V3 SE and with basic PLA it was much easier to use
A bambu would be a dream, I need ABS or similar higher temp for Australian heat
It seems like the Bambu P1 is pretty much the same printer, but you have to do the enclosure yourself, and it costs about 50%.
@@RotarySMP I have the P1S, the main differences are the camera is only 0.5 fps on the P1 and there's no lidar for auto calibration, and no AI spaghetti detection.
@@Corvus.2606 I see that a lot of print farms use the P1 rather than the X1, as there is more in common than difference. Seems like a great deal.
A big hammer might get the two lens apart, not sure about being able to use the lens after such an event. maybe some sort of strap wrench or ratcheting strap? maybe try tightening first, just to make sure they are not left handed threads? Or... send it off to a professional? Happy Sunday!
Hi Mike, yeah, I need to try LH, although I could not fathom why they would use a LH thread here.
The middle layer failures are from a partial clog. A cold pull should set you right. Might see what temp it runs after the first layers. I have more issues with slicers than machines. That said, the X1C is a superior machine.
Thanks Craig. Yeah, the Wiener90 normally prints better than that. I wonder if the nozzle is distorted from being dragged across the glass as well?
If you had access to a milling machine or a lathe, you could have made metal spanners. 🙂
I did consider it, Tim, but this was easier :)
Wiggins clamps, nice.
Yeah, I really like wiggins couplings. Beautifully made.
Congrats on the new printer. 👍👍
Thanks. It is an impressive bit of tech.
You can set your ip address for anything on your local network as long as you have the MAC address of the device. Log into your router go to DHCP settings. There should be a page to input the MAC address and the IP address you want the device to have. Save the settings in your router. Go to the device and Set the device to use DHCP. And reboot the device. Your device will pick up the IP address you saved in your router.
Thanks a lot. That friend Hamish , who design the printer is great at network stuff, and we once tried to set a static IP on the router. I can't remember why we failed, but we did. Since I worked out that IP Scanner finds it immediately, it doesn't really bother me much.
This almost makes me want to get a 3-d printer. Almost.
Hi Jeremy. They are a handy tool.
If it’s the costs that are stopping you, you can get into the hobby for fairly cheap. I bought, a few months ago, a new Ender 3 S1 and a parts one (long story), for a total of $90.
Good morning everyone watching
Morning Paul-Francis.
Night here.
your printing defects seem to stem from retraction, since they only happen in areas where the nozzle has to retract and move between islands
Good observation. That is the sort of fiddling and tuning I have been to lazy to do.
@@RotarySMP honestly i get that, seeing most of your vids are actual CnC machines. which i hope to have some myself some day... if you want some help and advice with 3d printers you can always message me if youd like, i design my own machines!
@@SlinkySlonkyWaffle Thanks a lot.
But the pink doll house printer looks really cute. The new one looks too serious.
True, so the pink one can stay next to it an keep it company.
I disappointed you didn't add tpu to the inside ring of the wrench instead of the rubber. Tpu sticks to petg
You have the tool changer and the tpu filament!
Oh, I didn't realise that. That would be cool.
they should have a counterballance dead weight that moves exactly opposite of the mass of the head on x and y
twice the inertia, excellent way to kill acceleration
@@martinchabot_FR That was my first thought as well. Measuring and avoiding resonant frequencies is a clever solution.
Use a bit of heat to loosen the glue on the lens.
I was worried about over heating the lens, but someone put 2 and 2 together, and recommended I use the printers heater bed for nice controlled heating.
Thinking about getting one for some time now. Thank you for an honest review………. Now I have to find some space in the workshop🙈 ………shouldn’t you print some kind of sailing boat in reference to the ongoing americas cup😂 you could even use some sort of carbon fiber filament 😜 man these boats are crazy pushing speeds up to almost 60 knots.
Hi Christian, Yeah I am loving the Louis Vuitton cup racing. Those boats are bonkers. Look incredibly difficult to sail without error :)
Amazing the quality from the old to the new. Have been looking to buy a bamboo lab but the price is still out side my budget, maybe when the price is lower
Check Qidi Q1 pro, no fuss and work great out of the box.
There are some tests from professionals which would indicate that the Bambu A1 has even better print quality (within it's limitations as an open printer).
Flashforge 5M is a budget friendly option with none of the cloud vendor lock in.
@@HM-Projects I am not to concerned about lock-in, as filament is a commodity.
@@RotarySMP I'm sure someone will manage to jailbreak and release a klipper firmware for it. I stay away from walled garden software / firmware in general, but that's just me :)
could be fun to try and convert the old 3d printer into a mini cnc mill/router with a super high speed spindle for when needing to make small features on small parts where you need those small tools
Those long, unsupported 10mm rods used as linear guides on the 3D printer are way too flexible for any useful machining. Remember, I also have a dormant project lurking in the basement which is a small router style mill with proper liner rails.
@@RotarySMP wait why haven't wee seen that? Or did I miss a video?
@@betaich It is not an active project, but was briefly shown in the start of my "Stale projects" video two weeks ago. :)
@@RotarySMP thats fair. personally if i where to start a project like that i would try and use/make hydrostatic boxways. even or morel likely becuase its a small machine
since its not as big its easier to make then for a big one and wince its small its also not gonna have a ton of power in its axis so if i can remove the stick slip effect that way its well worth it to me ( plus its zero wear on the ways then )
but thats just me ( the danish guy that also wanna take a SCHAUBLIN 125 C or a Weiler Primus and make them hydrostatic in both there way's and spindle bearings ( maybe even change there srews and rack`n penion to two oppersit mounted proloaded hydraulic piston's )
@@flikflak24 Something like this...
th-cam.com/video/sFrVdoOhu1Q/w-d-xo.html
Go for it.
Is that a lens off a Polaroid Land camera? I ended up having to drill two holes in mine to get a lens spanner on it, not sure why it doesn’t have the usual slots for one. Friction bungs made from rubber can work and don’t leave marks but I’m about 50-50 on success there.
Yes, from a 180. This is the front lens group. I used a bung to unscrew it from the shutter, but cant seem to get the unit apart. There are two tiny spanner grooves, but on the opposite side from where you can put a spanner. I wonder if it could be a LH thread?
You see ,Shakespeare was way ahead of his time with his "3d or not 3d " I will grab my hat and coat on the way out.😂
Hi Ken, dont give up your day job :)
@@RotarySMP @RotarySMP being close to 72, fishing 5 days a week and watching TH-cam is my day job😂
@@kenthesparky178 Okay, then amateur comedian is a good side hustle :)
@@RotarySMPa good plan there.
mate. what's with the bargain razor inserts? where are your really nice package opening blades?
One was in the basement, and the other in my office. This saftey blade is what I use for scrapping the glass, so it was the closest to hand.
You'd set the fixed IP within your router's admin page.
I tried that a couple of years ago with Hamish's support (he is better at the networking side), but we couldn't get it to work.
Great job
Thanks for the feedback.
I'm glad you are now getting stuff sponsored, but for the sake of the integrity of the channel, I'd use the proper TH-cam labeling for that.
Hi Alex, I marked this as a product placement video. Did that not show up for you?
@@RotarySMP Didn't show up on the big screen, but visible on phone. So yeah, it's marked, and if anything, a problem with how TH-cam manages it. Thanks.
@@graealex Thanks for checking that.
@@RotarySMP Now it's also visible on the big screen. One note though, since I recently installed the same printer for a customer - you can completely disable the cloud features via the touch screen. Means that your files get directly uploaded to the printer, which is faster and more privacy-oriented.
@@graealex I figured I would leave it cloud enabled initially, till it has proven reliability. I am not too sensitive to privacy for that sort of little parts and projects I am printing.
If I need to grab something firmly I use two sided glue tape. In 75% of the cases it always work
Good tip, I'll give that a go. Thanks.
Im stuck in a cycle of not using my printer enough that every time i want to i have to fix it/set it up again, but i dont use it enough to justify buying a better one
That is where I spent my last 10 years as well :)
That's the problem when you surf the internet for too long :) looks like a nice printer congrats
Hi Luke, yeah it is always a danger :) Still hot as down your way? Here it is up around 33°+ every day.
Yeah same here :( been looking at the x1 for a while now hope you won’t push me over the edge. Is it really that fast and easy to use?
Focus! :)
Yeah... nah .)
8:35 I think your nozzle is clogged or the slicer settings are not right (flow or filament diameter). Moist PLA gives me rather blobs on the surface.
I have certainly normally had better results than that. Given that the Z probe height was often wrong and nozzle got dragged around on the glass, I wonder if the nozzle hole is worn or distorted?
Maybe there is the left thread?) idkn
I considered that. Maybe I need to revisit that.
Yes PLA is very hygroscopic and will get brittle like spaghetti, particularly susceptible to torsion failure while it's unrolling
Tell me about it. I have a bunch of old 3mm PLA which was given to me. The Yellow is not too bad, but there was some blue which was uselss. Just kept snapping off during feed.
Print some plaste jaw pads for the slip joint pliers.
Also a good idea. Thanks.
13:25 Cannon plug pliers?
Hi Jim, Good idea. I dont own any, but could ask an avionics colleague.
yes PLA love drink water and moisture. maybe you pla is just to wet. your old printer is even still capable to print PETG normaly.
Yeah, normally the Wiener90 prints better than that.
"Only"" $1500
Yes, it is their top end printer, but have you seen the comparisons with the P1 and A1? It seems the more recent A1 has the best print quality of all, if you dont need an enclosure.
i dont think moisture is your problem at all,pla is quite unaffwcted by moisture..i have reels hanging in the ceeling of my workshop open and been hanging there for years..take one down, cut off the first meter,set it in the machine and it goes to town - however i think your problem is underextrusion..dosnt show well on big and flat pieces, but quite well on smaller things..eighter the extruder is skipping steps or just to little flow..or even dirt in the gears or worn gears the AMs is the reason why i woud like a bambulab, but the printsize stops me from getting one - to small for my taste
Thanks for that tip on under extrusion. That printer has had the same gears and extruder for the whole 9+ years.
New printer, same model as New Yorkshire Workshop (th-cam.com/video/S4gria9kUt0/w-d-xo.html) and my son in law (he has the same package as TNYW) 😉
Thanks for the link.
@@RotarySMP Clough42 also just received one , you might find the desiccant holders that he printed for the filiment magazine useful for yours.
He includes a link to the original designer
@@steveggca I already watched his video, and am planning to install those desiccant tubs.
What you need is a 3d metal printer
That would be cool in theory, but I doubt those things are safe for the house hold :)
Well those things are incredibly cool, and some guys on here like "Wesley Kagan" (incredible channel by the way) even have one , but they are in the 250k + range, are HUGE, and need awfully expensive powder to work and sometimes a sinteroven and sandblaster to work right
But if you donate that money, I'm sure rotarySMP will get one 😂
@@Basement_CNC i think you woluld also have to donate something to the misses and some extra space
First
Thanks. Have you been watching Teihoro and the other boats. I sure hope they win and do the next AC down under again.
@@RotarySMP not actively, I should be though as they are some impressive pieces of kit.