If you decide to try locking out the IMRC’s, I have a set of lockout plates I can just send you. They’re leftover from a gen 2 coyote car I don’t have anymore, they just sit on the shelf.
Sounds to me like there is a direct short / dump to earth . 2 alternators wiped out and an intermittent misfire??? . This would maybe explain a damaged voltage regulator on the alternator leading to an overcharge , would also explain a misfire due to lack of voltage / current to either the ECU or ignition/ fuel pump side . Had this on an e36 M3 race car of a customer,he had fitted a carbon fibre Air box , the bottom rubbed through some wires underneath and gave a direct short . This also explained his misfiring earlier in the day . Also heard that some solid state battery isolators can fail or have intermittent faults leading to a voltage spike / surge if there is no voltage back to the battery not 100% on this but worth checking.
Sorry for the disappointing weekend. Saturday wasn’t filled with track time for a lot of us…Sunday much better. Hope to stop by and say hello next time.
AJ, I understand your pain. Have had multiple alternator issues on my GT 350. Count on replacing an alternator and starter every year. That’s what I’ve had to do. Regarding the misfire issue - i was at Road Atlanta last weekend and had misfire issues both days. Multiple codes - P0300,P0301,P0304,P0306,P0308. I would clear them and they would come right back. Ive replaced spark plugs and coils thinking that is was an electrical issue. While on the track, it sometimes would sound like it was running on 6 or 7 cylinders. No power, then i would blip the throttle, it would go away and run fine for a few laps. I ran my PB of 1:34.63 at RA. That part was good, but the car gave me fits all weekend. Thanks for the IMRC recommendation. I will check that out. Only 1 thing, I just put a brand new GT 350 Intake manifold on the car in august.
Sounds exactly like my issue and codes. I pulled my intake and mechanically the imrc is moving fine. So at the moment I’m now thinking the actuators or solenoids are making it not work correctly. Unfortunately I’m not gonna get back on track till next season.
start by looking for wiring harnesses that move freely and are rubbing on something. you might be sending power to ground. i know on our 2021 Bronco, there were coolant lines rubbing on things that wiggled way too freely. i added zipties everywhere i caw a potential for chafing lines or wires.
Sorry a about the issues. I had a similar problem with high revs on my New Edge 2000 GT track car: Someone had put a cheapo parts store alternator in and every time the tach went beyond 5,500 RPM the alternator light came on. My trusted Ford Yoda (Mo's speed shop in Dallas GA) advised to "Just swap in a Ford OEM alternator designed for your car". Bingo! Problem solved, easy fix. Too bad the voltage regulator went bad on your original unit. Perhaps you can get that one rebuilt? Glad to see you're making progress on the engine management woes.
Put a larger pulley on the alternator to reduce the rpm’s its seeing. I had to do the same thing when i supercharged my engine, it was over charging and burning out the alternator.
Gotta admire a guy that continues to look for the positives in life! I will be very curious to find out what the problem ultimately was! I noticed there was no-one in the Start Stand on the front straight. Where do they "checker" you, coming out of Oak Tree?
Yup. That was the first alternators issue. Second alternator was the bearings. The thing seized up solid. So I dismantled the “new” alternator to un solder the voltage regulator and soldered into the “old” alternator housing and now have a good alternator and charges fine.
Yeah I was looking at that route. General consensus is it needs a tune. But if they are wide open above 3k and the car rarely duos below that, what’s the difference? I may try it next track day and just zip tie method lock them open.
Sorry you had a frustrating weekend. SCMC is a great group of people, anyone there would have helped pushed your car into the trailer! Hope you're able to figure out your misfire issue.
If you decide to try locking out the IMRC’s, I have a set of lockout plates I can just send you. They’re leftover from a gen 2 coyote car I don’t have anymore, they just sit on the shelf.
Sounds to me like there is a direct short / dump to earth . 2 alternators wiped out and an intermittent misfire??? . This would maybe explain a damaged voltage regulator on the alternator leading to an overcharge , would also explain a misfire due to lack of voltage / current to either the ECU or ignition/ fuel pump side .
Had this on an e36 M3 race car of a customer,he had fitted a carbon fibre Air box , the bottom rubbed through some wires underneath and gave a direct short . This also explained his misfiring earlier in the day .
Also heard that some solid state battery isolators can fail or have intermittent faults leading to a voltage spike / surge if there is no voltage back to the battery not 100% on this but worth checking.
Sorry for the disappointing weekend. Saturday wasn’t filled with track time for a lot of us…Sunday much better. Hope to stop by and say hello next time.
Frustrating day, love that you share the good bad and ugly, and I learn so much from your developement!!
AJ,
I understand your pain. Have had multiple alternator issues on my GT 350. Count on replacing an alternator and starter every year.
That’s what I’ve had to do.
Regarding the misfire issue - i was at Road Atlanta last weekend and had misfire issues both days. Multiple codes - P0300,P0301,P0304,P0306,P0308. I would clear them and they would come right back. Ive replaced spark plugs and coils thinking that is was an electrical issue. While on the track, it sometimes would sound like it was running on 6 or 7 cylinders. No power, then i would blip the throttle, it would go away and run fine for a few laps. I ran my PB of 1:34.63 at RA. That part was good, but the car gave me fits all weekend. Thanks for the IMRC recommendation. I will check that out. Only 1 thing, I just put a brand new GT 350 Intake manifold on the car in august.
Sounds exactly like my issue and codes. I pulled my intake and mechanically the imrc is moving fine. So at the moment I’m now thinking the actuators or solenoids are making it not work correctly. Unfortunately I’m not gonna get back on track till next season.
start by looking for wiring harnesses that move freely and are rubbing on something. you might be sending power to ground. i know on our 2021 Bronco, there were coolant lines rubbing on things that wiggled way too freely. i added zipties everywhere i caw a potential for chafing lines or wires.
Could be an airflow issue. I know BMW had an air duct to the back of the alternator on some models like early model E46s.
Sorry a about the issues. I had a similar problem with high revs on my New Edge 2000 GT track car: Someone had put a cheapo parts store alternator in and every time the tach went beyond 5,500 RPM the alternator light came on. My trusted Ford Yoda (Mo's speed shop in Dallas GA) advised to "Just swap in a Ford OEM alternator designed for your car". Bingo! Problem solved, easy fix. Too bad the voltage regulator went bad on your original unit. Perhaps you can get that one rebuilt? Glad to see you're making progress on the engine management woes.
Funny enough I stole the voltage regulator from the new alternator and soldered it into the olde and it’s working great for now.
Put a larger pulley on the alternator to reduce the rpm’s its seeing.
I had to do the same thing when i supercharged my engine, it was over charging and burning out the alternator.
Yup. Definitely on the to make list.
You can also put on the e-brake and back the trailer up. You can get the car up as far as the rear wheels, better luck next time my friend.
Gotta admire a guy that continues to look for the positives in life! I will be very curious to find out what the problem ultimately was! I noticed there was no-one in the Start Stand on the front straight. Where do they "checker" you, coming out of Oak Tree?
Yes
For info, my Cayman shows up misfire codes when there are battery/charging issues.
A friend had one of those that did the same thing. I don't remember how he fixed it.
Roush Racing might have a clue to alternators to use
Sorry to hear this happened. Do you think under drive pulleys would help with the alternator?
Yes
I've been through 3 Coyote engines now becaue the valvetrain, the same issue you have but in 4 and 7... get it chacked asap
The valve things in 5 & 8 must be stuck in the full bore open position
Nope. Pulled the intake and mechanically they all operate as they should.
Voltage regulator is part of the alternator, so i guess that is the cause
Yup. That was the first alternators issue. Second alternator was the bearings. The thing seized up solid. So I dismantled the “new” alternator to un solder the voltage regulator and soldered into the “old” alternator housing and now have a good alternator and charges fine.
I don't know what rpm range you're working with. But if the engine rarely goes below 3k rpm, you might be better off with an IMRC delete.
Yeah I was looking at that route. General consensus is it needs a tune. But if they are wide open above 3k and the car rarely duos below that, what’s the difference? I may try it next track day and just zip tie method lock them open.
Sorry you had a frustrating weekend. SCMC is a great group of people, anyone there would have helped pushed your car into the trailer! Hope you're able to figure out your misfire issue.
Don't you just love electrical problems?
My favorite