▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR MORE RESOURCES RELATED TO THIS VIDEO▼ *Tools used in this video:* (Cheap but effective so you can try this without spending too much) -Flush Trim bit set (includes 3/8"): amzn.to/3wmcatL -Bearing set (includes 1-1/8"): amzn.to/3N9e4Uz ★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ Harvey Woodworking Machinery: www.harveywoodworking.com/ *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) *More useful links:* -More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/ -Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/ -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs -Facebook: facebook.com/Stumpy-Nubs-Woodworking-Journal-305639859477973/
Thanks so much, your videos always are informative, and helpful. Been contemplating this using a bandsaw but mine is a bit old and needs help, it is not accurate. This would make it easier. though I am trying to blend 1.75" pieces for guitar bodies, so I am not sure if the accuracy would work. But I am gonna try!
Looks like that 1 1/8 bearing is sold out on Amazon. Do you have any suggestions for an alternative. I don't want to get the specs wrong, I trust your judgement. If I order it I'll probably get a 1 1/8 ball bearing made out of cheese. Thanks for an excellent video for the exact project I'm working on! Timing!
@@StumpyNubs Thanks for the video - I was wondering where you get the material you used for the template - not sure what it is called, or where to find it - but I was looking for material like that
If you overlay your two pieces and cut them at the same time sanding ever so slightly just to get rid of the cut marks you can put a filler strip a very thin strip of wood of a third species to fill the gap to make up for the saw kerf. For example you could use two boards one walnut one Purple Heart and then use a thin strip of maple to go between. Because The maple is so thin it will flex and bend easily as you clean up the two boards together during your glue up. Just remember not to make too tight of curves are your snap your maple. The gentle curves you were showing in this video would work very well with the use of a thin strip to make up the curve.
How's that old line go? "... long time watcher, first time commenter..." Well I did exactly as you stated - even got the 1-1/8 bearing - and ended up with a perfect wavy joint between maple and walnut for my daughter's charcuterie board. Now everyone wants one! I should do as 'Stumpy Nubs' first advised 10 years ago and, "break out those crutches as my leg is acting up." Thanks!
I want to mention one additional condition. It will work only if there is no tight inside corner or curve. The roller bearings have to reach into every part of your templates. As one bearing is bigger than the other you have different min curve radii for inside and outside curves. Can be a hassle on inlay projects.
To us metric folks: the router bit size is X, the bearing needs to be 3*X. (makes more intuitive sense to my non-imperial brain than 3/8 and 1"1/8) Not sure what bearing sizes are readily available 'round these parts so just calculate what fits your project. I seem to find imperial sizes on the German Amazon easily so it's fairly easy to use the sizes on this video and not think about it at all. Just as an explanation as to the reason it's 3X is that when making the working template you remove 1X width with the router bit from the template, so you need to move the router bit towards the master template line by 1X (B on this video is the exact copy of the master template, i.e. the line you're trying to create). You do this by adding a 1X overhang bearing and as it overhangs by 1X on both sides (as circles do), it's 3X. Makes more sense in drawing form, but what can you do in a text-comment section. Behold, my wonderful text-art below :D ______________ |_____bit ____| | X | | |
Maths does help it make more sense. Even more so when you want to add a strip of something else in there. You just have to account for that width on both sides and subtract and route. Definitely going to try this on the weekend!
I just love videos like this, because they clearly demonstrate how to go about doing things like this, which i knew were possible, but just couldn't find an explanation on how to do them, in a way that even I can wrap my underdeveloped german brain around. Thank you for your great work, I can't tell you how much I appreciate it!
Great video tutorial again. They're all informative and well done, and this one, like many others is a reminder that I didn't know what I didn't know. Keep them coming, please.
OMG! Like others, I've been thinking about a special project that would include this design element. I knew the kerf would be an issue, but I was clueless about how to compensate for it. This video has reinvigorated my interest in that project. Thanks for another excellent and useful tutorial!
Thanks for sharing. This is the type of experiment that every router user should try at least once, whether he likes curves or not. It teaches a lot about templates and router usage.
This is probably the best explained video on this topic. I want to curve join 2 live edge slab along grain line to reduce any disruption and this is way to do it! I probably have to do it hand held but that's ok
Thank you Mr. Hamilton for showing an ingenious method for perfect mating cuts on separate boards! This is going to help out a lot on upcoming projects for me! :)
I've made some artsy items with a two-piece element divided by a curvy line. Since, as you cautioned, cutting two blanks at once results in an imperfect margin, I filled it with a thin slat of softer wood. By sandwiching the slat between the two halves (and squeezing the living stuffing out of the slat with clamps) they glued up gaplessly.
Great technique, can't wait to try it out. I'm going out right now to watch for the delivery person to bring my bits so I can make some small cabinet doors :-) Thanks Mr. H. for updating this great technique!
I quite appreciate all your videos - the explanations etc are always so straight forward without any exaggerated chat.. 👍 I especially appreciated the followup to the table saw controversy - it shows, to me anyway, that you actually care about your followers. Good show fom Vancouver Canada
Great guidance on how to complete this project successfully. I just ordered the bits and bearing set to give this a try and see what possibilities come to mind during my learning curve. Thanks.
I once worked with a Mennonite company in Ohio making curved Stain Grade crown molding and casing and it took a while to rap your head around the offsets when creating templates and the inside and outside diameter of the material so it would match the curve of the walls. But it was probably the most fun I’ve ever had at a job and I learned a ton about making customer molding. Thanks for the video and God Bless.
I figured out how to do this with bushings in the router and a 3/8 spiral bit. I use it to make bowties to repair/strengthen defects in slabs. Can make almost any size and shape. May have to try it your way though, looks better for some things. Thanks.
Thanks James! Your previous video on this subject was actually the first Stumpy Nubs video I watched. Thanks for the remake, and the links to the affordable bits and bearings! I can't wait to try it out!
Eventually had watch to find out how the kerf issue was dealt with. Neat method. Also, I was just looking at those router bearing sets on Amazon. Perfect timing with this video. Now I may want to buy them after all, but need to do the non-elective router work on my plate first. Bah.
Hurts my head, but I will try this eventually and just do it one. step. at. a. time. per your video. I love the possibilities for unique creative projects. Thanks!
Wow, thanks very much for this, really enjoyed the video. Tried it, it worked pretty much first time :) My first mistake was not being careful with the master template guide cutting parts A and B. soon solved. After that it was brilliant :)
I was real impressed with your video. I’m making a jewelry box out of walnut and thought I’d try this technique on the lid using walnut and maple. I bought your recommended router bit and bearing set. Made the templates, band sawed the walnut and maple, and started routing the maple with the 3/8 bit and 1-1/8 bearing. Everything was going perfect until the cheap Chinese router bit decided to explode. Pieces went flying at 18,000RPM. I don’t know how, but everything missed me. In hindsight, the lesson learned is don’t buy a Chinese 5 router bit set for $18.
This took me far longer to understand what was going on than I care to admit. I was having issues figuring out how two templates that would not fit together could make something that did. It wasn't until i thought of that offset space as a representation of what the original router cut would have made, just shifted to the other side of the bit that it finally clicked. If you could use the same side of the router to cut both pieces, rather than having the two cutting edges 3/8ths of an inch apart we'd have essentially an infinitely thin router bit and no problems. By shifting the template off the line of one piece the width of the router bit, and adding that same distance of buffer onto the router bushing, you effectively turn the left side of the router bit into what the right side would have cut if you did it flush. Awesome idea and a great video.
Aha! That inexplicable stepped drill bit is a stack of bearings. Need to do a bit of doodling to understand how the bearing size compensates for the kerf. Thanks for the great idea.
Basically, you need an offset equal tot he width of the kerf. The bits don't matter as long as you account for that kerf. For example, you could use a 1/4-inch bit to cut the initial kerf, then a 1/2-inch bit with a 1-inch bearing to create the 1/4-inch offset to account for that kerf.
That was truly fascinating, like a lot of things obvious when explained but really hard to figure out. Off topic a bit, what is the rectangular hole for in some router table insert plates for. About to buy a plate, some have it others don't. Driving me crazy, can't find a single video that explains it.
So the "correction" bearing needs to be 3 times the size of the flush bearing and bit. If the original bit was 1/2 then the correction bearing should be 1-1/2.
The offset must be equal to the thickness of the kerf. If you are using the same bit for both cuts, then the 3X rule applies. However you could use different bits if that was more convenient. For example, you could cut the kerf with a 1/4-inch bit, then make the offset cut with a 1/2-inch bit that has a 1-inch bearing, creating a 1/4-inch offset to match the 1/4-inch kerf.
My apologies for not being able to send you an obscene amount of money, I'd love to pay you for your amazing content. This one in particular is just fantastic. Thanks so much!!!
Hi James, This is brilliant. As I've mentioned before I intend to use my router and new router table a lot this year so this is fantastic. Thanks very much James. Take care. Cheers, Huw PS I have also been able to source the bits and bearing sets here in the UK, also from Amazon, at similar prices to your links in the description so thanks for those as well. Huw
2 mins in and yeah never been in the situation too but yeah this is a really legit way with almost no fuss I'll be watching this again before I mess with it. But it's pretty simple and straight forward
Question A: For accurate repetition, wouldn't it make sense to create a template A.2 in the same fashion as the workpiece in the video, so you can then position both A.2 and B flush on the line (no measuring!) and use a regular flush-trim bit (fewer bit changes!)? Question B: I'm thinking that two template guide bushings with the same router bit should work, provided their difference in diameter equals the diameter of the router bit. Is that so?
Hi James. Great video, thanks. Have you done a follow up tutorial regarding joining curved or shaped boards - like the two you produced in this session - to turn them into finished table tops, etc? Thanks. Adrian
▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR MORE RESOURCES RELATED TO THIS VIDEO▼
*Tools used in this video:*
(Cheap but effective so you can try this without spending too much)
-Flush Trim bit set (includes 3/8"): amzn.to/3wmcatL
-Bearing set (includes 1-1/8"): amzn.to/3N9e4Uz
★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★
Harvey Woodworking Machinery: www.harveywoodworking.com/
*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
(If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
*More useful links:*
-More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/
-Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/
-Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/
-Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/
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Thanks so much, your videos always are informative, and helpful. Been contemplating this using a bandsaw but mine is a bit old and needs help, it is not accurate.
This would make it easier. though I am trying to blend 1.75" pieces for guitar bodies, so I am not sure if the accuracy would work. But I am gonna try!
Looks like that 1 1/8 bearing is sold out on Amazon. Do you have any suggestions for an alternative. I don't want to get the specs wrong, I trust your judgement. If I order it I'll probably get a 1 1/8 ball bearing made out of cheese. Thanks for an excellent video for the exact project I'm working on! Timing!
@@davidzaleski8344 www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-ambassador-c14-3hp-14-band-saw
@@StumpyNubs Thanks for the video - I was wondering where you get the material you used for the template - not sure what it is called, or where to find it - but I was looking for material like that
@@mike60521x It's just MDF
If you overlay your two pieces and cut them at the same time sanding ever so slightly just to get rid of the cut marks you can put a filler strip a very thin strip of wood of a third species to fill the gap to make up for the saw kerf. For example you could use two boards one walnut one Purple Heart and then use a thin strip of maple to go between. Because The maple is so thin it will flex and bend easily as you clean up the two boards together during your glue up. Just remember not to make too tight of curves are your snap your maple. The gentle curves you were showing in this video would work very well with the use of a thin strip to make up the curve.
How's that old line go? "... long time watcher, first time commenter..." Well I did exactly as you stated - even got the 1-1/8 bearing - and ended up with a perfect wavy joint between maple and walnut for my daughter's charcuterie board. Now everyone wants one! I should do as 'Stumpy Nubs' first advised 10 years ago and, "break out those crutches as my leg is acting up." Thanks!
I want to mention one additional condition. It will work only if there is no tight inside corner or curve. The roller bearings have to reach into every part of your templates. As one bearing is bigger than the other you have different min curve radii for inside and outside curves. Can be a hassle on inlay projects.
I think Pat Warner described this in one of his books. Getting more of his wisdom into instructional videos is a good thing.
To us metric folks: the router bit size is X, the bearing needs to be 3*X.
(makes more intuitive sense to my non-imperial brain than 3/8 and 1"1/8)
Not sure what bearing sizes are readily available 'round these parts so just calculate what fits your project. I seem to find imperial sizes on the German Amazon easily so it's fairly easy to use the sizes on this video and not think about it at all.
Just as an explanation as to the reason it's 3X is that when making the working template you remove 1X width with the router bit from the template, so you need to move the router bit towards the master template line by 1X (B on this video is the exact copy of the master template, i.e. the line you're trying to create). You do this by adding a 1X overhang bearing and as it overhangs by 1X on both sides (as circles do), it's 3X. Makes more sense in drawing form, but what can you do in a text-comment section.
Behold, my wonderful text-art below :D
______________
|_____bit ____|
| X |
| |
Maths does help it make more sense. Even more so when you want to add a strip of something else in there. You just have to account for that width on both sides and subtract and route. Definitely going to try this on the weekend!
"A lot of people were very complimentary about that video" lol
Thank you - this seems like a very elegant and easy solution to a vexing problem!
I just love videos like this, because they clearly demonstrate how to go about doing things like this, which i knew were possible, but just couldn't find an explanation on how to do them, in a way that even I can wrap my underdeveloped german brain around. Thank you for your great work, I can't tell you how much I appreciate it!
Great video tutorial again. They're all informative and well done, and this one, like many others is a reminder that I didn't know what I didn't know. Keep them coming, please.
OMG! Like others, I've been thinking about a special project that would include this design element. I knew the kerf would be an issue, but I was clueless about how to compensate for it. This video has reinvigorated my interest in that project. Thanks for another excellent and useful tutorial!
Thanks for sharing. This is the type of experiment that every router user should try at least once, whether he likes curves or not. It teaches a lot about templates and router usage.
This is probably the best explained video on this topic. I want to curve join 2 live edge slab along grain line to reduce any disruption and this is way to do it! I probably have to do it hand held but that's ok
James you're amazing! This is a great procedure for very creative work! Thank you!
Thank you Mr. Hamilton for showing an ingenious method for perfect mating cuts on separate boards! This is going to help out a lot on upcoming projects for me! :)
I've made some artsy items with a two-piece element divided by a curvy line. Since, as you cautioned, cutting two blanks at once results in an imperfect margin, I filled it with a thin slat of softer wood. By sandwiching the slat between the two halves (and squeezing the living stuffing out of the slat with clamps) they glued up gaplessly.
Great technique, can't wait to try it out. I'm going out right now to watch for the delivery person to bring my bits so I can make some small cabinet doors :-)
Thanks Mr. H. for updating this great technique!
I quite appreciate all your videos - the explanations etc are always so straight forward without any exaggerated chat.. 👍
I especially appreciated the followup to the table saw controversy - it shows, to me anyway, that you actually care about your followers.
Good show fom Vancouver Canada
Great guidance on how to complete this project successfully. I just ordered the bits and bearing set to give this a try and see what possibilities come to mind during my learning curve. Thanks.
Thanks for the review, I ordered the bits/bearings and they will be delivered on next Tuesday! ! !!!
I already have 3/8" pattern cutting bit. Ordered a Ball Bearing Guide #214 from MLCS. Thanks for the video.
I once worked with a Mennonite company in Ohio making curved Stain Grade crown molding and casing and it took a while to rap your head around the offsets when creating templates and the inside and outside diameter of the material so it would match the curve of the walls. But it was probably the most fun I’ve ever had at a job and I learned a ton about making customer molding. Thanks for the video and God Bless.
Wow.
Im not a carpenter. Just fascinated at what can be made. That was useful.
I just tried it. I am astounded. It freaking works!!!!!!
Excellent. More things I didn’t know. Thanks for enlightening us once again. Hopefully I won’t forget this all when the times comes that I need it.
I can't wait to try this out!! Thanks for all the videos you do . They have helped me a lot.
I figured out how to do this with bushings in the router and a 3/8 spiral bit. I use it to make bowties to repair/strengthen defects in slabs. Can make almost any size and shape. May have to try it your way though, looks better for some things. Thanks.
That piece of oak looked like it felt destined to become a piece of firewood and split. :)
Thanks for all of your great insight!
Beautiful, I've been scratching my head while making a jewelery box 2 years ago. Now I know. Thank you James !
Thanks James! Your previous video on this subject was actually the first Stumpy Nubs video I watched. Thanks for the remake, and the links to the affordable bits and bearings! I can't wait to try it out!
Great video James, thanks. I'm going to use this technique for a cutting board project.
Brilliant Dr. Nubs just brilliant. Really James what a way to join different woods.
Eventually had watch to find out how the kerf issue was dealt with. Neat method. Also, I was just looking at those router bearing sets on Amazon. Perfect timing with this video. Now I may want to buy them after all, but need to do the non-elective router work on my plate first. Bah.
Great video! Been working wood for a long time, 40 years or so. Hope to never stop learning new ways to do things. Thanks.
Had to watch a few time to get it... I got it! Brilliant! Thank you!
You are a fantastic teacher.
great for segemeted turning
Hurts my head, but I will try this eventually and just do it one. step. at. a. time. per your video. I love the possibilities for unique creative projects. Thanks!
Wow!! Pretty slick tip. Thank you for sharing brother. Gotta get to practicing it.
Scott Grove from Imagine Woodworking has a great video on this using his router guide and bushing.
Wow, thanks very much for this, really enjoyed the video. Tried it, it worked pretty much first time :) My first mistake was not being careful with the master template guide cutting parts A and B. soon solved. After that it was brilliant :)
Such a cool idea. I have a large, live edge desk project and this video is going to help massively! Thank you sir!
I was real impressed with your video. I’m making a jewelry box out of walnut and thought I’d try this technique on the lid using walnut and maple. I bought your recommended router bit and bearing set. Made the templates, band sawed the walnut and maple, and started routing the maple with the 3/8 bit and 1-1/8 bearing. Everything was going perfect until the cheap Chinese router bit decided to explode. Pieces went flying at 18,000RPM. I don’t know how, but everything missed me. In hindsight, the lesson learned is don’t buy a Chinese 5 router bit set for $18.
This took me far longer to understand what was going on than I care to admit. I was having issues figuring out how two templates that would not fit together could make something that did. It wasn't until i thought of that offset space as a representation of what the original router cut would have made, just shifted to the other side of the bit that it finally clicked. If you could use the same side of the router to cut both pieces, rather than having the two cutting edges 3/8ths of an inch apart we'd have essentially an infinitely thin router bit and no problems. By shifting the template off the line of one piece the width of the router bit, and adding that same distance of buffer onto the router bushing, you effectively turn the left side of the router bit into what the right side would have cut if you did it flush. Awesome idea and a great video.
As you say difficult to get your head round but w’ll described to make it easier. Many thanks.
I’m a simple man, I see Stumpy Nubs, I give a like.
Top vid Stumpy, thank you, stay safe and well
Aha! That inexplicable stepped drill bit is a stack of bearings. Need to do a bit of doodling to understand how the bearing size compensates for the kerf. Thanks for the great idea.
great technique. Thanks for explaining the use of the larger guide bearing.
That was awesome!
Cheers Stumpy!
Now that’s a very helpful video for a fun future project. Super job stumpy one!!!
I admit I had to watch parts of this multiple times. I like the possibilities but I think it a technique I’ll have to try and work through.
Basically, you need an offset equal tot he width of the kerf. The bits don't matter as long as you account for that kerf. For example, you could use a 1/4-inch bit to cut the initial kerf, then a 1/2-inch bit with a 1-inch bearing to create the 1/4-inch offset to account for that kerf.
I am fairly certain that original video was the first of yours I saw and was responsible for me subscribing to your channel.
Awesome, I've been doing a lot of stacking boards these days (and adding a thin strip to make up the gaps) but it would be nice to skip the strip :)
Sorry I entered my comment before reading yours. Looks like we both used the same technique. Cheers.
That was truly fascinating, like a lot of things obvious when explained but really hard to figure out.
Off topic a bit, what is the rectangular hole for in some router table insert plates for.
About to buy a plate, some have it others don't.
Driving me crazy, can't find a single video that explains it.
So the "correction" bearing needs to be 3 times the size of the flush bearing and bit. If the original bit was 1/2 then the correction bearing should be 1-1/2.
The offset must be equal to the thickness of the kerf. If you are using the same bit for both cuts, then the 3X rule applies. However you could use different bits if that was more convenient. For example, you could cut the kerf with a 1/4-inch bit, then make the offset cut with a 1/2-inch bit that has a 1-inch bearing, creating a 1/4-inch offset to match the 1/4-inch kerf.
I watch and it never fails I learn something new to me and cool. Keep up the good work, OBTW I loved the old videos too hee hee
My apologies for not being able to send you an obscene amount of money, I'd love to pay you for your amazing content. This one in particular is just fantastic. Thanks so much!!!
At 3:43 - the two working templates are not "mirror images" of each other. They are interlocking, not mirror images.
Very smart video. The different bearings compensate for the width of the cut made by the 3/8" bit. W@ay to go. Keep this stuff coming.
Thanks James! Great update on the technique!
Outstanding video and info
Another great video. Very instructive.
Hi James, This is brilliant. As I've mentioned before I intend to use my router and new router table a lot this year so this is fantastic.
Thanks very much James.
Take care.
Cheers, Huw
PS I have also been able to source the bits and bearing sets here in the UK, also from Amazon, at similar prices to your links in the description so thanks for those as well. Huw
excellent technique that could be applied to segmented bowls, etc. Great video!
Ingenious router set up has always been one of my favorite tasks (ret. stairmaker).
Terrific - top drawer sir - many thanks
Wow, really cool technique~! I'm definitely bookmarking this one for a future project. Thanks for (re)sharing it~!
Awsome tutorial
I excited to try this......thanks for sharing!
2 mins in and yeah never been in the situation too but yeah this is a really legit way with almost no fuss I'll be watching this again before I mess with it. But it's pretty simple and straight forward
Been doing this for years within the world of car audio. Works great..!
Very clever. Thanks stumpy.
Great tutorial!!!! That is a cool idea!!!! Thanks for sharing!!!!!😀👍💯😎🤘
Thanks for another easy to follow explanation of the technique. Very cool.
Very impressive
Excellent video. always wanted to make ying yang coasters
Super idea! Thanks James!!!!
Once again a very well done video, thank you.
You could also use a guide bushing in place of a custom bearing.
Question A: For accurate repetition, wouldn't it make sense to create a template A.2 in the same fashion as the workpiece in the video, so you can then position both A.2 and B flush on the line (no measuring!) and use a regular flush-trim bit (fewer bit changes!)?
Question B: I'm thinking that two template guide bushings with the same router bit should work, provided their difference in diameter equals the diameter of the router bit. Is that so?
Doing this twice or more, with appropriate rotation, would take a while to do, but wow could that create bonkers patterns.
I like your style of providing really good information...this is a cool technique. Thanks!
Fantastic! Thanks!
Great tip.
This is awesome! Thank you. I'll file this one away for future use!
Good timing! I was wondering how this was done after seeing a complex curve miter joint on IG.
The results are awesome just like marquetry inlay.
I have a few extra cutting boards , I think I will try on them walnut and maple cherry.
OMG! This is so very Cool 😎! In fact, it's just 🤯!
Kudos!!
GREAT video!!!
Seems like the working template B is a clone of the Master template, so the Master template could be used on workpiece n°2 ?
Great info. Will be ordering those bits. I agree with your thoughts on Harvey. Just received my Harvey table saw and the 14" bandsaw
Thank You, I did understand it, wow.
Fantastic James. Thanks!
That is ingenious.
Excellent
Great job James, really good information, thanks for sharing with us. Fred.
Hi James. Great video, thanks. Have you done a follow up tutorial regarding joining curved or shaped boards - like the two you produced in this session - to turn them into finished table tops, etc? Thanks. Adrian
Excellent instruction!