Mercedes R170 SLK Top Troubleshooting - Common Issues and Easy Fixes
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2018
- Klaus from Top Hydraulics, Inc goes over some common issues and easy fixes for a malfunctioning or non-responsive convertible top system on a Mercedes R170 SLK-Class Convertible Roadster
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This was the best explanation I heared in a very long time! Thank you
You're a life saver Klaus. Danke schön! I'm new to my R170 SLK and I feared the roof mechanism was broken. But less than one minute of your video made me go back to the car and close the luggage divider
Thank you good sir, you're a life saver, much respect
Hello. Great video. I have an SLK SR70. The roof red light in the cabin is not switching on when engine is starting, and roof is like dead. I was hoping for some fuse issue but fuses on the front and on front wheel side seem to be OK ( voltage checked on both sides of each fuse). I heard about the potential existence of a fuse box at the back, but I could not find it. Any hint pls ?
passenger side roof support on a 99 slk 230 failed tonight by leaking fluid and failing to complete cycle ! there was also fluid on back window dripping down ! any thoughts ?
Hi! I have an issue with R230 Sl350 2010. The roof operates fine opens and closes but the trunk doesn’t go back unless you push it and then it stops like 10cm before shutting and that’s all. Any idea?
i have a 98 slk230 and top will lift up after the trunk opens n all but it wont do more. Fluid leaked out from the driver side but im not sure where? The pump was replaced and im not sure if its not going down because of it constantly leaking or if something like the main lift is broken.
Do you have a link for the main hydraulic trouble shooting?
I bought mine from a 90 year old he was the first owner and he never knew about the luggage divider so the top was never used until about a year ago!!
Wow, sorry to hear about the previous owner having missed out on a lot of joy, even if it had been just a few top down trips. Congrats on making it work! What makes the seals in the cylinders fail is mostly a function of time and exposure to heat - the amount of use barely makes a difference.
@@TopHydraulics thanks for the reply, I’m in Washington so only about a month or 2 a year to heat and she was stored in a temperature controlled garage. Would the job be hard to do myself if they were to start leaking?
@@jusprankstv9278 That’s the setup for the longest possible service life of the seals in your cylinders! It’s not a question of IF, but WHEN the original cylinders will start leaking. No big loss if they start leaking in the rear, but a leak from the front lock cylinder will disfigure the headliner, so you may want to be proactive on it. To answer the other part of your question, it only takes our videos, a little self confidence and patience to do the job. We have plenty of customers in their seventies and eighties do the job themselves!
My 2002 is not lifting the roof away from the latches most times so it needs a "bump" what would the cause and solution be?
Easy fix. Up around S69/2 and s69/3 is a cable adjustment. Tighten it a little. It is hanging on a secure point on the side of near the back of the seats..
Hi, have you come across this problem with R170 roof. When vehicle has been parked, and locked in hot weather and you try to open roof, it will only go as far as all windows down and boot lid up. I can here the pump going but nothing further happens, it will close. Next day with weather a lot cooler roof works okay. Could it be that the heat thins the hydraulic oil so the pump pressure is lower and not enough to lift heavy part of roof. Would refilling with fresh oil help? Thanks Kevin..
Hello Kevin,
thanks for asking. This is a common problem, and it is likely caused by an internal bypass in either the pump or the front lock cylinder. As you are stating, your SLK Vario roof works fine at lower temperatures. With that, we can almost exclude an electrical problem or low fluid level. You have checked the fluid level already, right? Please also make sure that the pressure relief valve on the pump is closed (the brass colored Allen bolt on the side of the pump).
At higher temperatures, the hydraulic fluid is thinner (less viscous), which makes it easier to bypass either the piston seal in the front lock cylinder or some valves inside the pump. Changing the fluid with OEM fluid will not make any difference, and using thicker fluid will cause more damage in the long run. Left alone, the problem will only get worse. Thus, let's find and fix the cause for the internal bypass before it gets worse.
Flipping the trunk lid back is easy for the pump even if there is already some pressure loss. Unlocking the front latch is harder, and pulling the top off the windshield requires almost full pressure from the pump. An internal bypass in the front lock cylinder (which is pressurized on one side any time the top moves) will rob power from the pump, as does an internal bypass in the pump. If your top is moving slower than it used to or it needs manual help at the "tough spots", then you almost certainly have an internal bypass in the pump or in the front lock cylinder. An internal bypass in the front lock cylinder does not mean that you have an oil leak externally. It is just fluid getting past the piston seal inside the cylinder and thus lowering the pressure in the system.
We have a video that shows you how to check the front lock cylinder for an internal bypass: th-cam.com/video/EQ7-zEUeHcg/w-d-xo.html Chances for an internal bypass in a front lock cylinder are particularly high if someone has recently attempted a DIY repair on the front lock cylinder - bad idea!
If the front lock cylinder is bypassing, then have it rebuilt by Top Hydraulics, or have us send you one from our inventory first: www.tophydraulics.com/r170-slk/42-front-r170.html
If the front lock cylinder is not bypassing, then you likely have a bad pump. Here is the video on checking the pump for internal bypass: th-cam.com/video/HerRBslxn3A/w-d-xo.html.
If your pump is bad, then send it to Top Hydraulics for rebuild, or get one from our inventory first: www.tophydraulics.com/r170-slk/166-rebuild-service-for-r170-slk-hydraulic-pump.html or www.tophydraulics.com/r170-slk/605-core-exchange-for-r170-slk-hydraulic-pump.html
Hope this helps, and please let us know what you find!
Klaus
Hello, Thanks for the great video. My 2000 SLK 230 roof opens and goes happily into the trunk but them it wont come back out and close again. I have to open the screw and manually lift it back out. Once I get it started back up I can do it hydraulically. Just seems to get stuck. Any thoughts?
This can happen if the wires from switches S69/2 and S69/3 short to each other while the top folds. They are routed on the right side of the roof and they trend to fail where the harness flexes between the rear of the top panel and the top of the rear glass panel.
@@TopHydraulics Thank you I will look into it.
How do you top off the hydraulic fluid? I've heard people use a syringe. Any advice or even better, a video?
Thanks for asking. Here you go: th-cam.com/video/Xc0iOIFBG-4/w-d-xo.html
have you done a video on the cable lid switch replacement? ive got to replace mine on the left side but not quite sure how to do it !
What do you mean by cable lid switch replacement?
how do i test for leaks? my fluid is low on my 99, and i’m worried one of the tubes somewhere is leaking. how do i check?
Hi, thanks for your videos, but I ask you for advice, I have the two rear glasses the two triangles that do not rise, can you tell me how to proceed to fix them?
Thank you
Thanks for asking. Almost certainly, the rear windows don't raise becasue the forward latches of the trunk lid (they look like seat belt buckles) are not both giving the signal to the computer that they are latched. There are several possible reasons for that.
1) If you are manually closing the trunk lid, then the latches will not close. You would have to disconnect the tops of the trunk lid cylinders from the trunk lid and manually push down the trunk lid cylinders first.
2) Low fluid level. Check the fluid level in your pump. If it is below the minimum line on the reservoir, then find the leak and fix it first.
3) Lubrication. Lubricate both forward locks.
4) Release cables. There are release cables going to these locks. Make sure that they are not tanghled anywhere. If the cables are tight, then they will release the forward locks, which means the locks will never leatch and give the proper signal to the computer.
@@TopHydraulics grazie per i consigli importanti che mi hai dato, controllerò
@@TopHydraulics
thanks for the important advice you have given me, I will check
Have a 98 slk230 here, my top won't latch properly, after remove the headliner, I can visually see the cylinder works hard to latch the roof to windshield frame, and it did for split of a second, the pump won't stop and doesn't give me a signal of completion. When I release the red switch, it will slowly loose back and eventually lost the locking position and release the micro switches. Obviously, the roof is not closed properly and thus windows won't go up and the car beeps to warn me all the time. Do I have a internal bypass issue? Seems like the pump won't hold pressure to lock in position when release the button. Please advise.
Thanks for asking. You have checked the fluid level in the pump already, right? If the system is struggling to latch the front and you have enough fluid in the pump, then you normally either have a weak (internally bypassing) pump or an internal bypass in the front lock cylinder. Here is our video on checking the front lock cylinder for an internal bypass: th-cam.com/video/EQ7-zEUeHcg/w-d-xo.html
Hello
I have a leak (spot-puddle) on the floor of the hydraulic fluid under the right underbody of the trunk under the pump of my mercedes slk 200 .
I was to see under the trunk there is like a round black rubber hose
As soon as I activate the red button flash the pump empties and the fluid goes down on the ground
What is this issue ?
What is the solution to solve
Cordially
Sandy
Hi, i have problem about my hydraulic, whats the problem when i push switch to up, all the windows is down, i hear the relay sound ia click, but the hydraulic is no function , hydraulic no sound, i have replace all new 5 lid cylinder, i have refill the new hydraulic fluid. But until now i still thinking what the problem. After i replace all the lid cylinder, it can open normally about 20 times i think, but at last this week, it can't open it anymore. Can you tell me what the problem? Is it hydraulic pump is fault? May the hydraulic pump can fault? If yes, is it the pump can repair?
did you figured out what is the problem? I have the same scenario issue. I don't know where start, where are those lid cylinders what you already replaced?
Hi.
Would if you can help.
I have a slk 320 2004 he roof stops half way down and won’t come back up.
I have put a new pump and a relay.
Have you got any ideas.
Thank you.
Let’s clarify first what you mean by “half way down” and which exact symptoms you see.
1) Is it stopping with the top all the way down but the trunk lid still flipped backwards?
2) Does the pump still run at that point once you pull or push the button?
3) Is the red button blinking when you pull or push it?
Hi the driver side door electric window on my R170 has stopped working,won't go up or down or the automatic down from the door seal.Will this stop the convertible top from working?I can hear the pump working and all the other windows to down.Thanks Paul.
Indeed, all windows need to be operational for hone top to work.
All close completly but the main window and th triangle window wont come up,why is that ??
Help!!! I purchased a 2004 SLK, was not told about the roof lock leaking... ran down the fluid until the last time it closed it took forever and the red button got HOT. I performed the cylinder rebuild as seen in other videos and now when I retract the top, it does unlock, but that's all. The trunk never opens and the pump just keeps going until i let go of the button. No flashing light on button or anything else.
Any ideas? Pump? Switches? I was wondering if air in the system, although I'm reading about self bleeding... I don't understand why it's not working anymore
Let's see if we can narrow this down. If I understand your comments correctly, then you tried to replace some seals yourself in the front lock cylinder. Is that correct? Also, It appears that the trunk lid retracted before you worked on the front lock cylinder, but now it doesn't. Is that correct?
@@TopHydraulics Correct. Well, the craziest thing happened. I was excited to show someone the car and settled I was going to have that top down manually, and although I did it before, for being in a hurry, I missed a critical step and the whole thing became stuck when I tried to force the issue. It took unscrewing all he upper lock mechanisms off and whatnot to get this corrected. Apparently, either this was something that broke during the snafu or I don't know what, but the next day I said let me try getting the top down normally again and I took a long look at the top right switch area.. I see this plastic thing in there sort of sticking out. I push it in with a thin screwdriver, would you know it... the whole top works and retracts normally! I was super happy and took it out for a drive. I then came home and tried putting it back up and for the first time I got that red light blinking at the switch. No other actions or noises. Well, I used the screwdriver and moved that piece around and it ALMOST completely closed but stopped just shy of it. I think it's the black "pin" or whatever you call it that depressed the switch that has snapped off in there. So if the piece is depressing the switch or not is the problem now. Do you guys sell this piece and can tell me how to change it? or at least give me the part number? I think if I fix this, I should be all set (I HOPE) since the rest seems to be working.
Hi I have a slk 230 1998 only the front windows go down and then the switch flashes ? How do you remove the load cover micro switch to check it ? Thankyou
Generally, this type of switch works if it clicks distinctly. You can feel your way around the switch assembly if you reach up there through the access hole for the pump. You will find that the switch assembly pivots on the bottom and slides into a holder on the top. Thus, if you pull forward on the top of the switch assembly, you can dislodge it and take it out.
@@TopHydraulics hi thankyou I will give it a try
Hi . i was low on my hydraulic pump oil on my convertible and after topping it , i found the oil gushing out at the top roof of passenger side . What could be the problem ?
Thanks for asking. There is only one hydraulic component on top of the roof and that‘s the front lock cylinder. See th-cam.com/video/NYTTJ_uMWwg/w-d-xo.html
Hydraulic pipe could be
When trying to retract my top I get a beeping noise and in the dash cluster says that it is in drive mode and the top will not retract
Sounds like there is a speed sensor telling the top control module that the car is moving. I don't know where the speed sensor is at - on R129 SLs it's on the left front wheel and the issue is taken care of by cleaning the sensor.
does this apply to c209 chassis?
Thanks for asking. The 209-chassis is the CLK-Class model years '03-'09. Their hydraulic system is quite different. Here is our troubleshooting video for the 209-chassis (A209) CLK class: th-cam.com/video/ZLIdoiw_KTY/w-d-xo.html
My roof stopped functioning and I had to close the roof manually. Now the boot won't raise when I attempt to raise the roof. I am not receiving an error signal from the roof switch. I recently added hydraulic fluid to the pump (the proper Mercedes fluid.) Any thoughts?
Maybe we can narrow it down if you provide more details. Sounds like you have a leak somewhere, since you added fluid to the pump. Have you checked the fluid level again? Do you hear the pump running when you pull the button? Did you close the pressure relief valve on the pump?
@@TopHydraulics Thank you for the quick response. I checked it again today and it is low (below the minimum level line.) I just topped it off Sunday. I checked the hydraulic lifts in the trunk but did not see any fluid leak, and did not see any staining on the headliner. Also, I closed the pressure relief value (the brass screw on the face of the pump) by turning it clockwise slowly until it stopped. I can hear the pump attempting to operate when I hold the switch to the open position.
@@ramonmcgee2240 You obviously have a leak and you need to find it, so keep looking. I would advise partially opening the roof and taking the headliner of to inspect the front lock cylinder A170 800 00 72, just in case the oil has not soaked through the headliner yet. Also check the main lift cylinders on the sides of the rollover bars.
@@TopHydraulics Roger that. You just gave me my Friday afternoon project. LOL. Thank you for the advice; its very much appreciated.
How did this turn out? I'm curious because my used car I just bought is doing the same thing, and it's def not the roof cylinder.@@ramonmcgee2240
Cherche la vidéo sur les fins de course de toit
Cabrio tente kapatma yapiyor motor sesi geliyor açma yaparken ışık yanıp sönüyor motor sesi gelmiyor sorun nedir?
The red light is flashing either because it is unsafe to move the top (divider not in place) or there is an illogical readout from one of the micro switches. If this is happening while the top is retracting into the trunk, then you have wires shorting to each other at the right side hinge between the rear of the top panel and the top of the rear glass. For details on all the micro switches, see this video: th-cam.com/video/uXKSfLEPWgE/w-d-xo.html
@@TopHydraulics okey thank you
Hello, I loosened the Allen key, the upper part is always red, it lights up, it doesn't make any noise when I tighten it, but there is no movement, it shuts down, it does not open, there is no movement.
so how do i contact you for service ?
Feel free to contact us through the contact link on our website: www.tophydraulics.com/contact-us
Good day sir I have SLK230 when I open on switch it will open perfectly..but when i close it also on switch no reaction no...have flash on switch slowly in the motor not working..
B4 all cylinder is leaking..so I change it den fluid on level then I try to open yes it open perfect motor work but when I close it motor not run and flash on switch slowly..and no leak anymore level on fluid is okay...thank you...
Obviously, you need to fix the leak. However, the immediate problem is electrical. There are two wires routed on the right side of the roof, coming from the front micro switches S69/2 and S69/3. These wires can crack when the roof folds, between the rear of the top panel and the top of the rear panel. Manually raise your top part way and check out those wires...
@@TopHydraulics okay sir I will check it thank you..
Gud day' eve sir I already check and still not working on close position I check the wire on the roof and its fine and when I push the switch to close only light flash on switch ' motor still not working on close...what is the other possible fault on this sir...