How to install vinyl, t molding, buttons, and joysticks on a Raspberry Pi Arcade Cabinet Ep#11 Pt# 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- In this very special episode, I show you how to finish installing the buttons, joysticks, trackball, power supply, Bluetooth stereo, PWM fan controller, t molding, and various other parts for the custom raspberry pi arcade cabinet build! If you are planning on building your own, this episode is for you so you can learn some tips/tricks and learn from my mistakes/successes. It is a lot of work but so worth it in the end when you see your beautiful handcrafted piece of your childhood come to life.
Remember that when working/testing/installing electrical components, you should have the power off! Electricity can and will kill you if not handled properly. Get help from an experienced person if you do not know how to work with electricity!
This episode is part two of the installing the parts as I went into a great amount of details with the parts install so you can see first hand what works and what doesn't. This was the first time I have installed arcade components and it turned out pretty awesome and I learn somethings that will help make your life easier when you attempt this with your project.
This custom arcade cabinet can be used as a stand up arcade cabinet or the control panel can be removed from the cabinet so you can take it to a friend's house and plop it on their coffee table, hook up a HDMI cable and plug it in and play! It is a portable arcade with everything needed to play inside the control panel.
Have any questions about the build? Please feel free to comment and I will get back to you as soon as possible. I like to help people....it's my job.
If you would like to keep up with behind the scenes info, pictures, and videos, follow us at / way_of_the_wrench
If you would like a PDF of my Sketchup plans and dimensions, smack that subscribe button and go to the link below to collect your free plans: sdssautomotive...
If you enjoyed the video, learned some cool tech tips, or would like to use my plans, I would appreciate a like, a subscribe, and a share so I can be inspired to create more videos and continue to make better content for you guys! Thanks for watching and if you hit the post notification bell, you will know when our next videos are out! I hope that these videos can help someone if they want to create their own arcade cabinet and if you would like to make a similar version as mine, go ahead. I will be posting all designs and plans throughout the build videos and a final video showing build costs and plans.
If you have any ideas for future content, please leave a comment down below!!
The next video will be how to make a free or cheap 12V DC power supply for your arcade cabinet or really anything that requires 12V DC. I used 2 free XBOX power supplies and they worked great!
If you missed the earlier videos, start here www.youtube.co.... for episode#1.
Music for this very special episode by :
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Thanks to Teknoaxe for his royality free music for our intro/outro music.
Please check out all of Teknoaxe's sweet music tracks!
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Intro music is Synthwave D www.youtube.co....
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Way of the Wrench is looking for a collaboration with any TH-camrs out there hard at work making royalty free music, just send me a message with your link for consideration.
Disclaimer: These videos are intended for entertainment and inspiration. Working in a woodshop, metalshop, or autoshop is dangerous without proper safety and experience. Always seek professional advice and training before using any power tools/machinery. If you have any uncertainty before performing any shop procedure, stop and learn a safe method/technique. Do not attempt anything simply because you saw it in one of my videos. Be smart, use common sense, respect your power tools/machines, use safety glasses/guards and be safe.
Love your work. You remind me if the days when I worked as a service manager I had one guy who lived to tinker and put something together. He was meticulous and we need more guys like that.
Thanks Preston! LOL....yeah I'm a bit of a perfectionist in my work and I love to constantly be learning new skills and starting new projects. My house is full of projects. Yeah I try to teach my students to always try their best so they can learn to be proud of their progress and growing skills too! Thanks for the watch. If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Cheers!
I have been building an arcade cab myself and I know basically how much work entails building one. But I have to say your videos are by far the most in-depth tutorial of the entire process. Thank you for the wonderful work. Subbed!
Thanks a lot for the comment and sub! I really appreciate it as these videos are a ton of work. It's tough to make them entertaining while showing the level of detail I wanted in them. Yeah I was surprised how much work this cabinet would be but it was soooo worth it. Where are you in your build? Would love to see it when your done. Cheers!
It has been such a pleasure watching you make this cabinet. I am a huge fan of arcade games and gaming (I still play every game I can on my neo geo fight stick) and woodworking/electrical projects so it's been super fun watching this.
Sounds like you just found your new favorite channel, I'm glad your enjoying the series. Yeah I'm a big gamer too but lately it has been all work no play...
I’ve been watching your videos for building the arcade cabinet and I’m very thankful for your tips and I also find them entertaining. Now Im going to watch this episode and its very exciting seeing you putting it all togerher and see the end results! Keep up the good work!
Thanks bruh! Yeah it was a lot of fun to make and when I got to certain points it was really cool to see it coming together. I am currently building a pc for the cabinet and learning Launchbox so I am excited once again to see this upgrade in the cabinet. If you liked the video series, I would really appreciate a share out on your social media. Cheers!
Love the custom 3D printed fan covers!!!
Yeah they turned out nice eh? Cheers!
You did a killer job on this!
Thanks! It turned out nice I think. You should check out my virtual pinball cabinet, it is even cooler! Thanks for the watch!
This was awesome. Great work. You are a perfectionist if you didn’t know already 😂.
Some people would take this the wrong way but I think it's awesome. I would consider myself a perfectionist and it drives me to make things to the best of my ability....including my videos. The hours I put into these is insane. Thanks for the watch! Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench I think it’s great. The finish on this is A+.
Thanks, it turned out awesome but I have some mods I would like to do in the near future. Addressable LED light strips, PC upgrade (Launchbox), spinners install, Sinden light guns, add visual pinball using digital marquee as the backglass etc. Always something to tweak and make it even better. Cheers!
Love this serious of videos, been wanting to make one of these for the longest time. You sure set a high standard!!!!! Thank you for all of the information.
Thanks bruh! Me too, I was a child of the arcade and don't know why it took me so long to make one. I tried to make the ultimate cabinet that had everything I wanted and it turned out great. Plus I learned a ton while I built it so I thought I would share out the details so others could enjoy building their own too! If ya enjoyed the videos, I would really appreciate a share out on your social media. Cheers!
What a great job on the cabinet, I love the marquee!!
Thanks dude! Yeah the digital marquee is awesome and with the bezel artwork, it is the main feature to make each game seem like it has its own arcade cabinet. Im glad I decided to go with this ultrawide monitor rather than a skinny long lcd screen as some games have larger marquees and they look amazing.
Dang man, just... dang! Nice work. Appreciate share of this knowledge. Bonus! You appear to have used buttons from same manufacturer I happened to buy... CROWN / SAMDUCKSA. Building full cabinet eventually but gonna wire up the control board first following this guide.
Thanks Joe! Yeah this turned out pretty awesome. No worries, glad you enjoyed the video and are able to get something out of it. Yeah these buttons were pretty easy to wire up except that my control panel is bigger than normal so I just had to add some wires to extend the one side from the ipac. Good luck with your build and you should check out my new series on a virtual pinball cabinet....it is a whole other level of cool. Cheers!
Amazing build I’ve been watching all of the episode and I love it so much, just started the conception of mine on Raspberry 4 ! Love to see the evolution
Sweet! I would love to see your finished build when your done. Have any cool ideas to make yours unique? Im definitely going to upgrade the cabinet to a rasp pi 4 later or at least use a rasp pi 4 in a next build. Cheers!
Very nice job
Thanks dude!
18:00 And Trackballll! - Trackballll!
After three years, you should de-gunge clean the internals. I did my TB recently. It is amazing how much gunge builds on the rollers from skin, oil, phenolic/polyester resin dust and dirt. You need finger nails to scrap the buildup off using IPA and a cloth. You will be amazed by the visible wear line on the metal rollers. And don't forget to blow out the particles and dust bunny (Cheetle from snacking) found inside the case halves.
Trackball can be Awesome smooth again!
Nice tip for cleaning the trackball! I should look at mine cause it's hard some use. I find I don't use it that much though and I find some games would play better with a spinner. I'll have to make a video for that and some upgrade videos for the arcade cabinet too. Thanks for the watch and the tip!
@@wayofthewrench You are aware that I did a DIY Spinner using a Chinese rotary encoder 600ppr, 1,5" Aluminum knob or 2.5" encoder wheel and, ProMicro Arduino board on my git-hub page CraigB-spinner Repository. Knob diameter adjusts feel and sensitivity of finger/hand movement. Device should be mounted to a thin plate (0.102" - 0.178") without using a coupler for extension.
I'll have to check that out, I still need a spinner on my cab. Thanks for the info. Cheers!
I absolutely love your videos :) so entertaining to watch
Thanks Steven! Glad you enjoyed the video and my content! If you deem me worthy, I'd really appreciate it if you could share out my channel on your social media so I can help more people. Thanks in advance!
great work brother.
Thanks bruh! Glad you liked the video. Thanks for the watch!
Wow! That’s freaking beautiful!
Thank you very much!
Really interested to see more about how you made the marquee work as well As the bezel art work.
Coming soon!
It took one year to make it, wow. It is crazy cool.
I wanted to do this with an Xbox so I can play Marvel vs Capcom 2 and Soul Calibur 2 with my friend.
Nah, it took a year because of filming and I only get an hour or 2 a day to film. You could do it in a few days if ya needed to. I love Marvel vs Capcom!
@@wayofthewrench in your videos I see you using a boat load of power tools. One road block I constantly see people mention is the tools cost so much and that without them they will never be able to attempt a project like your arcade cabinet, even if it was on a smaller scale. Materials tend to be relatively cheap in comparison.
My question for you now is...
Have you ever thought about doing a video going over tools people need if they are going to start wood working? Do you need power tools or can you get away without them? What tools would one need? What power tools would you recommend and why? What should people be looking for in tools they are going to purchase? Etc. Do you already have such a video on your channel that I just missed since I am showing up later?
Yes! I had that comment a bunch so I address the tools issue with my pinball cabinet series. I do the entire project with minimal tools and show you how. You can use the same tools for an arcade cabinet too. Thanks for the watch!
14:37 I had the same problem 12 or 15 cm 26 AWG wire leads. Designed for 6x9" fightbox.
You can get Micro JST XH 2.50mm (0.984" a tad smaller than 0.100" 10/in - orig. 70's DIP spacing) connectors not to be confused with PH 2.0mm (0.127" 7.8/in) connectors on online shopping (everything comes from China) with longer 20-30cm harness (not cheap $1 each) but also need 0.110" female spade ends to finish. I assembled the solder wire/shrink rap/spade plug end to extra 2 pin harnesses myself. You also need special crimpers to do a proper job on 26 AWG wire into spade connectors.
Adjusted spec typo and you tube censorship is getting rough on online brand store names - always a learning curve for comments. I am awaiting all band usage of articles 'the' & 'a' in comments
Yeah you end up modifying them anyways....could have just added wires.
Lol...TH-cam
So good ! I've been following this build and looking forward to going for mine.
Thanks dude! It is sooo worth making your own cabinet. Once all the hard work and effort are done and your standing in front of your own cabinet, its a pretty amazing feeling. Id love to see your cabinet when your done!
Amazing work!
Thanks bruh!
greta video ,very informative and thorough
Glad you're enjoying the arcade cabinet series, you should check out the virtual pinball build going on now. Thanks for the watch!
"So much easier than having to crimp …" And I'm like, "Wait til you either have a rat's nest of too many wires, or some are too short." And sure enough!
The advantage of those kits is that you don't have to spend time on them if they work. When I wired one of these things up myself, I was glad I took the time to make each cable the exact length I wanted and install cable management. Its owner uses it 20 years later despite owning better made options because its so easy to maintain.
Yup, sure enough. It would have been ok on a smaller control panel but it wasn't a big deal in the end, just part of the course. I do need to clean up the wiring at some point though. Cheers!
16:54 Did not realize you added a trackball RA-TRACK-B-3-USB-PS2 from Holland computers. I did the same a month later with RA-TRACKBALL-2 using the red boards and programming my own Pro Micro (used all but one input). I watched the FedEx plane fly from IND to YYZ (500 miles) right over my home in K-W in less than an hour during height of Covid lock-down. Yes, I could have ran outside and said " Da plane, Da Plane". That is what I call speedy service, plane was on the ground less than 20 minutes before turn around. Shipped from Elyria, OH to Indianapolis, IN via interstate then jet to Canada. I got a good deal thru Amazon thru Holland for $66.50 + $27 S&H, that would be approx $50 US + S&H. Prices today from China have over doubled for stuff. My project can be seen on git hub under craigb-spinner and I have a few short videos on TH-cam demo my bad TB playing ability; not as good as your full length build vids.
Oh nice! Lol, that's funny. I sometimes do the same thing and watch my packages go all over the place. You install spinners? That's something I need to add on mine, plus go to Bigbox and a PC. Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench I started 2017 with a Pi3B (retroPi), Spring 2018 with an 8-way with Sanwa parts from Canadian Joystick from Burnaby (your part of the woods), Acrylic Box and Zero delay, and few months later with a 4-way box. Spring into late summer 2019 with a DIY "Arcade" spinner.
RetroActive ARCADE from Edmonton sells a SpinTrak $127 + S&H but needs an encoder like Ipac board. GRS USB Arcade Spinner (not Arcade1UP model - wrong protocol) are over $100 from amazon. Or do what I did Chinese Rotary Encoder (600ppr, 5V) $20-$35, aluminum 1.5" knob (doubles as flywheel) $13, Pro Micro board with Atmel ATmega32U4 MCU from Canaduino $17 or UNIVERSAL-SOLDER $8-12 + S&H, DuPont wires, 3x3mm ctrsunk screws, USB micro cable, Lexan or Plexiglas 0.060" or 1.5mm thick sheet size of joystick base plate. It will cost less than half of a Ultimarc SpinTrak, GRS USB Spinner, GroovyGameGear Turbo Twist. I noted above I have a git hub page with software, it should work with either SpinTrak, TurboTwist or your own DIY spinners, GRS is complete all-in-one 360ppr spinner.
Plus must have skill not to burn fingers with low-watt solder iron. Minimum 4 wires to solder on MCU board, or headers and DuPont connectors.
@@wayofthewrench BTW some group in Spain translated my Arcade Spinner project into multiple EU languages, and my design was knocked-off by a Chinese company sold on AliExpress, showed up last Xmas as a RAC-Spinner. They do fight boxes, etc. Original video from JoeW was the my first source and I worked with Joe until he lost interest with my upgrades. I posted a year later on git hub and TH-cam. Others tried working with Joe, he had no interest. He had his spinner and that's all he needed. I have seen few others post similar video's, Joe's code does have a non-lethal logic bug (move 0 pixels).
Great work! It looks awesome!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Subbed - excellent content. What did you use for your Monitor and Marquee Monitor? When I first saw your Marquee, i wondered why it was so wide but this makes it so worth it. Really nice to have a custom marquee for each game game choice.
Thanks! Yeah it seems everyone wants the skinny monitor but the original art looks great on this and some original art is bigger than those skinny monitors can display without squishing the png. Plus it is easily $500 cheaper especially since I didn't have to pay for shipping. Thanks for the sub!
Can I get some more information on the control board/fans and setup you used for your cooking fans. I like how they power on and off as needed.
Here is the link to the part you asked for. Works like a charm and the fans were dead silent running off of this. www.amazon.ca/dp/B019P0FLHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_nWT3FbHZZH2Z0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The other parts are just pwm computer fans and a couple pwm fan extension cables. Cheers!
OMG VERY VERY GOOD JOB. Beautiful Cabinet but I'm curious:
1. If you are using a Raspberry pi it was the point of building such a large Cabinet hmm?
2. If the TV and monitor sweat, I would give 2-4 additional fans for the back :P
Thanks a lot! I'm not sure if you have watched the entire playlist but the idea for this build was to design from scratch a full size arcade cabinet that had a bunch of unique features and was ergonomically perfect for me. I wanted a full size arcade cabinet that looked good to me and still fit through a standard size door. The dimensions of the cabinet and control panel are to accommodate a 32 inch wide screen (traditionally way smaller) and not be standing too close to such a big screen. Also I wanted a digital marquee to be the highlight of the build. The control panel was designed to be removable and completely self contained (all electronics inside control panel) to make it portable (kinda what you are asking about). So far the inside of the cabinet is not too hot. The digital marquee monitor is upside down (had to so it would fit centered with opening) and the cooling fans/vents for the monitor are actually on the bottom and the there is a opening cut out in the top of the cabinet where the monitor fits. So hot air can escape out the top but I might put a cooling fan in the bottom/back of the cabinet to pull in cool air later. I still have a few things I want to upgrade on the cabinet so this might be on a future video. Thanks for your comment and suggestions!
Great Job!
Thanks man, it was a lot of work! The marquee looks great and it would not look as good without your help. Thanks again for your work on this! Cheers!
Ótimo trabalho 👏😎
Thanks bruh!
Lovin the build man. If you have an extra marquee monitor like the one you put up can you send it to me or tell me what the exact kind of monitor so i can look it up myself.
I had to buy it and it was $279 CAN plus taxes. It is a 29" ultrawide LG monitor and has been an amazing monitor. Well worth the money.
just saw the same monitor for $229 CAN at Staples!
Thanks
13:54 If you modify the orientation of the joystick top-plate from portrait to landscape or flip to the other side, the wire harness will be fubar. A standard Sanwa/Seimitsu joystick harness must plug into the lower left to work without modification.
Here is a layout and pin# mod to make it work in other orientations.
Sanwa/Seimitsu Harness Layout-viewed from top
Pin Direction/Pin# Change/Orientation of plug
Gnd ◄ ► ▼ ▲ - G 2 3 4 5 - Lower Right (Std)
Gnd ▲ ▼ ◄ ► - G 5 4 2 3 - Bottom Left
Gnd ► ◄ ▲ ▼ - G 3 2 5 4 - Upper Left
Gnd ▼ ▲ ► ◄ - G 4 5 3 2 - Top Right
Thanks for the info. Is this for stick arcade set ups because in Retropie, it seemed to work with zero issues? Thanks for the watch!
@@wayofthewrench For your large cabinet space is not an issue once you did any needed wire extensions. If you have a space limited box and need to exit the harness from a non-standard side, you will mess up the directions for all encoders for Japanese Sanwa/Seimitsu sticks with soldered switch circuit board. All manufactures do offer sticks with micro switches with spade connectors which have 8 individual connections instead of the simpler single 5 pin harness.
Remember buttons are more loose of an idea then a joystick direction, and RetroPie makes you bind every switch usage to function but not on a computer or console (eg. Sony's △, O, X, ▢, L1, R1, L2 and R2 will map to a button number) which will be pre-assigned by default. Mapping will be in game.
Say you need to exit the connection on the left instead of standard right then you will need to remove the four pin sockets using an X-acto blade. Change wire order from (G 2 3 4 5) to (G 3 2 5 4) and now your Zero delay will work as designed (mirrored image). On a Brook or UltiMarc board the wire colour will need to be screwed into different posts. This is a big issue with single joystick/button controllers and randomly changing a joystick/button layout between players. RetroPie will get confused and change settings.
Cool, thanks for the info!
FYI: If you don't want to be "Blinded by the light" for all eight buttons, a simple mod can be done.
There are two styles of Zero Delay boards CY822A/C(non-LED) and CY822B(LED). The original Zero Delay board used a 2 pin harness for each button with Common(+5v) & Trigger(pulled-low) and your LED Zero Delay board 3 pin harness with addition of Gnd(-ve). You can modify the wiring on the harness to change the LED lit state from always-on to light-when-pressed or visa versa.
Plugs with black-yellow-red orientation, will cause LED to be always-on.
Plugs with yellow-black-red orientation, will cause LED to light-when-pressed.
The Chinese colour wiring standards are as follows: red is Gnd and +5v is black or yellow.
Zero Delay circuit boards are oriented from outer edge to centre as follows: Common(+5v), Trigger(pulled-low), and Gnd(-ve) on LED versions.
Once again, really great info...thanks! Do you build arcades for a living? I might actually swap these out for some higher quality leaf switch led ones. Plus an ledblinky set up would be sweet. Thanks for the watch!
Absolutely awesome work, I very much appreciate the time and effort you put into creating the videos and explaining everything so well. those little details make all the difference and exactly what I will do. I was planning on creating my own from scratch but now as you have done such a great job I am tempted on using your templates as I can see no way of improving on what you have created.
the size 32" look great, I see you used an LG digital marquee which matches perfect but I am unable to find one, could you please let me know what model this is as I wouldn't want to order one too small or large?
also after a good 9 months of use, how are things going? is there anything you wish you had done differently or improved on parts used?
Thank you very much, I'm glad your getting something out of the video series. It has been pretty successful which is awesome and helped me find my niche in youtube.
Well i am planning some upgrade videos for things like led lights, pc with launchbox, spinners, light guns, tempered glass, pinball. Keep an eye out for those. If I was to do it again I would buy a 32" smart tv so you can watch netflick or stream other stuff. Like play a hockey game on the marquee while playing arcade games. Things like that. I also would have designed spinners into the control panel. Some games really need them and the trackball didn't cut it. The marquee monitor is a LG ultrawide monitor 29" , should be under $299 CAN. Cheers and thanks again for the watch. If I am deemed worthy, I'd appreciate a share out on your social media. Thanks!
Hi can you send a link to the cooling fan control board that you used in this video ... great job !!
Here is the link to the part you asked for. Works like a charm and the fans were dead silent running off of this. www.amazon.ca/dp/B019P0FLHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_nWT3FbHZZH2Z0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use the three pronged dollar store outlets and an inlet module,
Instead of the IEC320 outlet or do you mean the power strip?
@@wayofthewrench I term out the outlet to the IE320, (cut off the plug, strip the wires, crimp on some connectors) to have 3 outlets, one of which I use for a cooling fan and a USB port for LED lights or recently I've thought of putting a wireless charger under the panel to charge phones during play, idk lol
Hey great video series. I had a question, what kind of raspberry pi did you use ? Also it looks like each controller section runs on a usb so that's 2 usbs plus a usb for the tracker ball. Do raspberry pis have that many usbs. Do you use a splitter ? Thanks enjoyed every minute of your tutorials
Thanks dude! I put a ton of effort into the cabinet and the videos so I appreciate the comment. If you enjoyed the series, I would really love a share out on your social media.
I used a raspberry pi 3bplus for the main pi and a zero W for the digital marquee. You can use older pi but they limit what systems play good. For example I used a raspberry pi 1b for a bit but I was only really happy with nes and it had to be overclocked.
Yes you are right, you will run out of usb ports and you will also pull too much power off of the power supply so you need to use a powered usb hub. Cheers!
This is a really great build and I am inspired to do my own. Would you be willing to share the sketchup file?
Thanks, I am happy you enjoyed the build series and are inspired to make your own. At this time I am not sharing out the SketchUp file but the exact dimensions for all of the pieces are in the pdf in the description section. Feel free to make my design and join the family of 5 of this cabinet made already! You can see them all on my instagram. If you make an arcade cabinet, I would love to see it when it is done. Cheers!
Ive been watching your videos in numerical order. Im not quite sure I understand how to do the digital marquee. Do you have a tutorial on that?
If you keep watching all is explained, it has its own video....think it's the last one. Basically there is 2 pi, one listens for when you change a game and then looks for artwork you have named the same and displays it on the second monitor. Enjoy the series!
@@wayofthewrench oh wow. That’s interesting. I will keep watching. Thanks for the reply.
when i got a raspberry pi4 8 gb for my arcade 1up and when i had to build a control penal for my arcade 1up it had a hot key and start and select button . i did have 3 arcade 1up i sold them all cuz i got a legends ultimate and it haves Coins-Ops on it. my arcade 1up had over 20k games on it i got a great image file from arcade punks it was running Venom image 512gb version
20k games!!!! Dang son! How you like Coin Ops?
@@wayofthewrench it ok i like it . but sometimes i do miss my old raspberry pi4 . but nothing is like using a PC for arcade emulators like running ps2,ps3,xbox and Wii games a switch games .
Awesome video. Very informative. I am almost done my 4 player pedestal and learned some trick from your videos that I will be using. Thanks! btw that Shitsubo Shita jam reminds me of CoinOPS. Its their intro song to their RetroFe. If you havent heard of it, you should check it out!
Thanks, Im trying my best to put out videos that show how to do this stuff in enough detail that people can follow along. I hate watching car shows where they do a full restoration in 30 min and skip so much that you dont really learn anything.
Id love to see your finished cabinet when your done.
I tried to find the music you recommended and I did hear one that was same kind of synthwave. Its really hard to find decent royalty free music but Ive been using a lot of Teknoaxe and Royalty Free Planet lately and there are some gems in there for sure.
@@wayofthewrench @Way of the Wrench you are doing great man. Pretty thorough with the steps and great add of the wiring diagram for the outlet. Yeah that bothers me showing beginning and end not all the work.
Okay great! Will do!. Do you have a twitter account, or other social media to send the pictures too? Or what's your email.?
Oh I bet it is. It's sad a lot of music is locked up with royalty fees. So far you have choose some good times to listen to while your working on the arcade.
WAY_OF_THE_WRENCH on instagram, just send me a message.
Great work. Could you send the links for the buttons and track ball?
Thanks....it was a blast to make/film and even more fun to play! Yes, the links to all of the parts I used are in the description for the gathering the parts video in the playlist (episode 3 I believe). Cheers!
12:09 Player 1 and Player 2 must have identical setups or RetroPie will get confused and change settings.
RetroPie maps the Vender and Product-ID to similar boards.
Use lsusb command {after installing in Linux} lists - ID ####:#### or Vender and Product-ID
You're right, they both have to be setup the same or you'll have issues. Thanks for the watch!
Can you share the link for the computer
Board that controls the fans?
Here is the link to the part you asked for. Works like a charm and the fans were dead silent running off of this. www.amazon.ca/dp/B019P0FLHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_nWT3FbHZZH2Z0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The other parts are just pwm computer fans and a couple pwm fan extension cables. Cheers!
43:46 thanks for that dude
Yeah I figured someone would have this issue so I'm glad I put that there. Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench yep, I had resorted to using a separate power switch for the pi
Number 1
Thanks dude!
Dude that's sick! Is there a way to run a marquee with any emulation station? Or only raspberry pi
Thanks! I know Hyperspin and Bigbox has marquee ability, I recommend Bigbox on a pc. Thanks for the watch!
Speeding up the video ... Very Benny Hill Esq. 😃
Benny Hill .....classic.
Not really sure why you split that white cable jumper... Without it the light would be on all the time?
There are 2 ways to wire this IC320 outlet. The way I showed which makes the light come on only when power is inside the cabinet which requires a split in that wire. Or the other way which will have the light on all the time as long as the power cord is plugged in, which doesn't need the jumper wire (I believe). I only showed the one wire diagram for what I did. Thanks for the question. Cheers!
Did you post some of those clips already?
Not yet, I have some more videos to put out for this build and I'll be posting some game/bezel/marquee art for some more games. Most likely Royalty free games.
Looking for PDF for the cabinet but i dont see it when i got to the link
sdssautomotive.wordpress.com/way-of-the-wrench/
It is on this page. If you make my cabinet, Id love to see the result!
So you have a positive wire? In the rest of the world we have a live (and neutral)
It's been a awhile since I did this video, do you mean the AC wires for the power bar or the DC wires from the power supplies?
Love these videos, but seeing the Elechickens tape killed a part of my soul. LoL Use what you have, but I hate Vinyl tape.
Yeah I try to use heat shrink when I can but ya gotta insulate those electrical connections one way or another. I will be organizing the wiring and cleaning up the inside of the control panel/cabinet soon.
DO NOT crimp soldered wires. Never solder any wire that goes into a connection that relies on clamping. The solder holds the strands apart and is soft. Over time, the strands can migrate around and cause a loose connection. This loose connection is going to cause heat which will cause the solder to soften even more. This is how fires start.
I would disagree with you on this. Solder isn't soft and should have no problems being crimped or lasting long term. If you soldered correctly and the crimp is solid, then there will be zero resistance added and no heat generated. What wires in the arcade were you thinking about?
@@wayofthewrench The two 110v you soldered together then crimped. Also, this is not my opinion, it's know fact. The resistance is not in the soldered connection, it's between the connector and the soldered connection. The same goes for screw terminals and the like. Any connection that relies on clamping should be bare wires.
I have only mentioned this out of concern for safety.
Thank you for bringing this up, I appreciate it. I looked into it and you are right that it isn't code. In my experience the fault is that the solder caused stiffness in flexible connections and areas of high vibration/movement will cause the wire to break over time. I have never heard about resistance or heat being an issue though. There should be no added resistance from the solder if not correctly and there is minimal amperage running through those wires should it should be ok. Not to code....but ok. The fuse on the cabinet is 10 amps so really that connection should be able to run 10 amps all day with no worries without heat growing/shrinking/loosening these connection. Thanks for the heads up and I appreciate the info. Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench Automotive or Racing use crimping to avoid vibration failure at the solder bare wire junction from work-hardening due to improper strain relief and accidental solder wicking. They don't care about longevity in racing but for regular automotive longevity is critical, and hence the use of strain relief and environment proofing connectors. Your soldered connect is okay, lack of vibration and relative low currents flow. Bad crimps and, oxidation can make for poor connections.
My dad as a plant engineer needed electricians to tighten screw contacts in main power panels for 500-650V three phase lines after inspection with thermal cameras. A Panel in time with thermal expansion and cooling and can explode and launch boxes off the wall. There is high wattage coursing through electrical panel in factories and need to pass inspections.
You are using the cable stripper the wrong way, the flat end of the stripper tool shall be at the direction you want the insulation to go.
Just a tip.
Which stripper? The bigger yellow one or the smaller red one? I wasn't aware of a direction on either but I think the yellow one might have a certain direction to strip wires. Are you an electrician? Thanks for the tip!
41:55 HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAhahAHAhAhAHAH
Yeah that was rough....troubleshooting and filming, especially late at night are not recommended. One of those "What an idiot" moments for sure. Once hooked up though this system really pounds! Love the bluetooth option too, so good for tunes while gaming. Cheers!
@@wayofthewrench thanks a lot for the video. I have learned a lot with your journey, cant wait to finish my project :D
I'd love to see your cabinet when you're done, where are you at?
Cool cabinet but overkill for a pi 3b+ based build. Kind of wasted potential for old 16bit games. Put a pc in there for all that investment.
Dude! How is it a waste? You put in a computer in the cabinet and hook up the usbs and you have an awesome cabinet. I used a pi because I wanted this cabinet to be portable, just remove the control panel and take to a friends house.
The old games are mame which works great on the pi and are awesome on a arcade cabinet with real joysticks/buttons as opposed to just a controller.
I am currently refreshing a 16 year old computer and it is already way better than the pi and when I am done, it will be going into this cabinet....so nothing wasted.
I was messing with recalbox boot from usb, unbuntu running retropie, and launchbox this weekend to see what I want to do for future upgrades and videos for the channel. Also planning on doing a visual pinball cabinet too....
@@wayofthewrench because the pi is a slow turd that can't render any hardware accelerated mame games e.g. Killer Instinct, and you've gone all out on a cabinet with a second screen for Marquees and stereo bluetooth speakers and the like. It's more of a compliment then a criticism. Cab is under utilized IMO. A micro x86 board with a decent APU running Big Box or Hyperspin and/or Steam would be a better fit.
Yeah I get what you are saying. As we speak I am teaching myself Launchbox and getting an old computer ready for the cabinet. Even with just a few parts this computer is light years ahead of what the pi can do. Plus it has actually been kinda fun messing with computer parts I installed 16 years ago. This computer will add a whole new level to this cabinet, I can't wait. Bigbox is coming Mike....it's coming. Cheers!