We thank you for your interest in our help videos. Unfortunately, due to limitations in TH-cams comment sections, we are unable to quickly answer questions in the comments. Please feel free to contact us directly here: www.generatorguru.com/need-help/ PLEASE NOTE: You cannot test the AVR without a very expensive piece of kit called a Megga meter. This is why you need to do these tests to make sure there is no other problems in the Alternator. This will discount any other problems leaving the only possibility being the AVR.
you need to show,or tell,what happens when certain items blow. . my geni reved up. trying to find out why. the shop said,its chinese,buy another. there not interested. its remote start,key,pull,3.500 w. inverter. i have an old subaru,10 yrs,still going,but noisy as hell. 5kva. need a more portable geni. so bought the inverter.small suitcase size.
I have never commented on any of the hundreds (if not thousands) of TH-cam videos I've watched, but I am beyond grateful for this. I promised a client of mine that I would fix his generator, which I've never done before. More than 5 hours and many YT videos later, I still hadn't figured out the issue. The brushes were shot, everything else had continuity. Replaced the brushes, but still no power. You are the ONLY person I found that pointed out that the positive wire always goes on the left side of the brushes. I just hooked them up how they were before (another shop tried to repair). All of a sudden, IT WORKED!!! So, thank you so much for your help. Very grateful for you.
I am so glad we could help! If you need any other info we have an interactive help centre which can help you fix most generator issues: generatorguru.com/need-help/>Engineering
Thank you a thousand times!! You were very instructive in every phase of showing how to properly troubleshoot a generator. You even took the time to show the proper settings on the multimeter for anyone who needed help. Your a blessing. GOD bless you.
I find it interesting that people who really understand what they are doing make great simple instructors. No complicated garble that the watcher doesn’t understand anyway.
Generator Guru back in the early 70s, I was taught by my grandfather, how to rebuild generators, alternators and starters, with the simplest tools available, close to 50 years I've only had to replace one generator to an alternator, switching over a 1960 Ford F-100 Excellent video, really enjoyed it.
Hi Dale Thank you for the comment, I would love to hear more about it, a lot of people get stuck with the lesser known or unbranded generators as many rewind companies do not want to touch them so charge high prices for repairs to push people away and many people find themselves with a unit that is no use to anyone but not worth the repair costs
Thank you so much for your Comment! I have patted my team on the back and passed your thoughtful thanks onto them. We really appreciate you letting us know. Would you be able to leave a review for us on trustpilot? We have recently signed up with them and would like to spread the word and help save more Generators. If you could be so kind, please leave a review via this page uk.trustpilot.com/review/generatorguru.com Thanks again for your feedback!!
Thank You! Finally a video on fixing a generator with brushes that makes sense. I am finally now able to narrow down what the actual problem is. It is the AVR. Thank you again for the awesome video.
This has been the best instructional video I have found on you tube. Thank you for taking the time to demonstrate the testing. Now I have a question not really covered. I have 4.7 v to both the R1R2 and L1 L2 and 0v on R1L1 but I only am getting 1.7v across the brushes. The surface that the brushes are riding on are smooth. I thought these were grooved. I am looking forward to your expertise on this. Gary
Thanks for the feedback! R1 and L1 should be 0 vac if you have a voltage changeover switch and set it to the lowest setting. These results indicate you need a new AVR. The AVR should bring up the rotor to 5vac also if you run it for 20 mins without load to stabilize the magnetic field. Your brushes will be smooth where they connect to the rotor, but be sure they have enough play in them to make a good connection. If you are still having any trouble please let us know and we will be happy to advise you further. :)
Sorry I should have added that I have already replaced the AVR. This unit has only been used a short time. brushes are not even worn in yet.So are you saying I should run it 20 minutes with the new AVR? one last question. This John Deere 6200 watt runs wide open all the time. Is that normal?
Generator Guru sir i changed the Generator AVR but the voltage is still not stable ..when i start some things on it becomes decreasing voltage from 220 to 195..
That was a very well explained and informative video. It removes some of the mystery about what's inside the alternator, and teaches the ordinary lamer some basic troubleshooting tips. Thank you.
The diodes on your rotor have blown. Check to see if they are accessible (usually on the end of the rotor or the fan end) if so replace them. If they are "in" the rotor you can take the rotor and windings to your local "motor rewind" company and they can rebuild it for you. But worth calling g a few companies as price varies greatly!
Thank you, With your help I located the brushes on the Hyundai 7000 and cleaned them so it works again. Genpower were useless and argued over warranty times so much for the platinum warranty! Kind regards Andy
Thank you for your feedback! We pride ourselves on "Good old-fashioned customer care!"We strive every day to save generators and other machinery from being scrapped due to parts not being available. It helps every-ones pockets and prevents tons of CO2 being added to our ecosystem!
I had a loose terminal on a new duromax 8500 which fried the avr.. They sent a new one but it was only putting out 109 volts on both sides . The avr had an small adjusting screw and I turned it and adjusted it to 120 . Works perfect now.. Thanks for the video
Ummmm.... you should not be adjusting that screw! They are set at the factory and now you have just changed the hertz output!!! That is not good!!!!! IF IT HAD CORRECT VOLTAGE BEFORE THE AVR BLEW - Run the test in this video and follow relevant steps below. IF GENERATOR IS COMPLETELY BRAND NEW: Best to set it back to 109 then adjust the speed by the top screw on the carb. Use voltmeter to set to the correct voltage. Before you do that. be sure good fuel flow is coming from the tank as the Petcock has a filter behind it which might be blocked. IF GENERATOR HAS RUN FOR MORE THAN 1 HOUR: If you were getting low power and it is NOT totally brand new, but has some running time on it, this is what you need to check: 1) it needs servicing. (1st service best done at 50 hours as loads of metal shaving are produced as it settles in) - see th-cam.com/video/ioAgCqPhUfg/w-d-xo.html 2) The engine has settled in and valves need resetting. This needs doing after about 1st 50 hours - see valve setting on our website and follow this video: th-cam.com/video/mYrdnPVmaDs/w-d-xo.html If you need more help please contact us on generatorguru.com/need-help/ and we can assign you an engineer. :)
Hi, Generator is outputting around 3.5- 4V on the brushes and 4 - 5 V on the L1, L2, R1, R2 and when I tested the L1 - R1 I was also getting 4 V but im only getting 8V on the 230V output on the generator. what could this error be?
Hey man. Thank you. You made my day. I didn't loose magnetism, just had to change the avr (because i mistakenly connect the public power source to my generator. Turned the thing into a motor in a flash ruining my avr in the process. . That's a awesome guy you got there. (the black cutie) Thanks a lot
Very good demo. Nice, clear explanation. I thought I might mention though - that the rotor is not "otherwise known as the stator". The part you call "the windings" are the stationary part of the generator - the stator. The rotating part of a generator or a motor is the rotor - whether it has windings, permanent magnets or a squirrel cage structure.
Hi Ralph Thanks for getting in touch! A few people have pointed it out over the years, a bit of a slip of the tongue we didn't spot until after we had posted the video, it used to have a little tag at that point in the video apologising but youtube seems to have dropped the captions off and won't let us replace them as its convinced they are still there!
Thank you for your excellent and most helpful video. I tested my Firman 4550/3650 and the results were not what I was hoping for. Across the brushes 13.28 L1/2 .38 R1/2 .34 and I didn’t bother measuring L1/R1. Please confirm my worst nightmare about this generator. Thank you again for sharing your time and knowledge.
Sorry! The rotor diode has blown. If you can see it on the end of the rotor you can remove and replace, or take it to a motor rewind shop and ask if they can change it for you. :)
What's that you say? Ahhh! Now I can hear you. I have to remember not to test my AVR on a windy day I guess...THANK YOU!! very content rich. Love that.
Stephen, Thanks for getting in touch. Yes, we find on some computers the sound works perfectly, and on others it is impossible to hear. If you have any questions please contact us www.generatorguru.com/need-help/. We have in planning stage, a new version of this video and a poster for step by step instructions. Thanks for your feedback! Hope it was helpful even with the sound quality. :)
nice video. The only technicality I see is your explanation of a rotor and stator, two distinctly different parts. Keep up the great work! This was a very informative video!
Yeah I got nervous during filming. I did add a note over it on youtube, just after I uploaded the video, to say I got them mixed up but over the years it seems to have disappeared with all the updates that TH-cam have done. Thanks for pointing it out. I will try to get that reinstated. :)
Always happy to help! FYI... We also have loads more info on repairs and maintenance on your website if you ever need it. :) www.generatorguru.com/need-help/
I am very much curious, how much resistance reading is expected across the slip rings of the rotor, and does it vary, depending on the power rating of the generator? Very informative video by the way, thanks for the clear demonstration.
Thanks!! Resistance varies from generator to generator, and not all generator companies publish them. Hence needing a better way to test the alternators, and we came up with this! It is called the "Beagley Alternator Testing Technique" and was invented by our company founder many many years ago! :)
I was running my heater off my generator (3000 watts)for about an hour when the heater when off. I checked the generator and it was running and smoking so I shut it off. Would that indicate my windings or alternator is burnt? Great video, very educational.
+Rick Saffery You cannot test the AVR without a very expensive piece of kit called a Megga meter. This is why you need to do these tests to make sure there is no other problems in the Alternator. This will discount any other problems leaving the only possibility being the AVR.
John, These are the results without the AVR attached during testing? If not please test without it attached, if so, then follow the next step. If the hertz are that high then we would be questioning the speed of the engine. First, check the Governor Rod and all springs are in good order (especially the one over the rod to the top of the carb as a little play in the spring will greatly affect this.) Also, service the engine to be sure that nothing has gunked up the governor which sits inside the engine as this adjusts the speed. In North America, you want 60hz (50hz for European or Auz regions) so you need to slow down the engine if neither of the above is the case. On your generator, you can do this with the screw at the top of the carb. Turn slowly anticlockwise until you get the desired Hz. If this does not work you will need to replace the governor inside the engine. If you need parts we hold them for your generator. You can buy online on www.generatorguru.com/
I get 94mv DC from brushes which move and look like new. It's a very steady 94mv too. I get 4.14V AC from tests #2 and #3. I get 0v AC from #4. Unit is 3 years old and only got used when new for a few hours. Looks exactly like the one you are working on. I did have it set to 110V like you said. I know AC from DC and I also had the + wire to brushes marked from the OEM. Is the left one too. The rotor assembly is USD $180. Is that the problem here from the info I am giving you? Rotor is clean and shiny. Very clean unit, stored inside. The brown wire(bottom nut) had a bit of rust and corrosion. Is clean now. Great video, only of it's kind!!
What are you getting in Volts AC on the brushes? In need this to tell you what the state of your rotor is. The other tests (on the windings) are good, so there is not problem there. Look forward to hearing from you.
Hey thanks for the info We will try to rectify this in future. :) (PS. sorry about the delay in answering, for some reason TH-cam sent this question to the "junk" folder. We apologise for the inconvenience.)
If you have the super-silent version, You might be able to find the Capacitor (or AVR in some models) from the back panel held on by the 10mm bolts (some models only). If not you will have to remove the exhaust... sorry.
Thanks *Blush.* He is 1/2 German Shepard, 1/4 Lab, and 1/4 Rotti. He is 8 years old now, and accepts that I talk to a tripod... Don't you love dogs, they accept you for who you are without question, even when you look nuts and talk to yourself. Thanks for your feedback
Don't cry! Yes you are correct in some countries it is called the Stator. It is also known as the armature and the rotor. We sell all over the world so use all these terms.
thankyou very much for your effort and sharing nice video. but i was little bit puzzled during video how can multimeter gives 5,10 volts without any supply. please elucidate this point.
+wajahat hussain This is a good TH-cam video which explains how an Alternator works: th-cam.com/video/tiKH48EMgKE/w-d-xo.html. There will be a residual voltage which is what we test.
Good footage and really helpful. I have just tested my generator that wont give power. Across the brushes 4.8 volts. L1 and L2 11.3 volts. R1 and R2 2.2 volts. R1 and L1 7.8 volts. Just need to work out now what that actually does mean 😀
What are the symptom of bad brushes? I recently replaced my AVR. I did not replace the brushes as the ones that came with the AVR seemed awful cheap. Now I'm curious if I should have replaced them anyways.
If you run the test on the Armature (Rotor) with the brushes fitted you should get a constant 5vac. If not replace the brushes. If you have any questions you can contact us via www.GeneratorGuru.com and we will pair you with an Engineer who will work through it with you. :)
Very educational video. Just need to move your camera a little bit closer to your work so we can see better as to exactly what you’re doing again very educational video. Thank you.
Hi, I have a 3KW Suntom single phase diesel generator. It was ok, but now only producing 85Volts AC. I have followed your instructions, I have 1 volt across brushes, brushes ok. 4.8 Volts on L1 L2. 4.9 Volts on R1 R2 0Volts R1 L1. Do I need a new Rotor?.
Probably 1 of the most helpful and easy to understand videos I've seen. Especially as I'm trying to diagnose my genny which has stopped producing power. I've tried the drill technique and I've tried the flash with a battery after disconnecting the avr. Neither have worked. Tho the genny did produce power for the few seconds I flashed it with the battery. So now I'm wondering if the avr is fried as we noticed water in the extension lead that was plugged into it. So I'm thinking that has sorted out the avr to protect the alternator like you just mentioned it should!
For fault finding or technical advice, feel free to contact us using the link below www.generatorguru.com/need-help/ This will allow our engineers to review your query and give you the best possible advice!
No the L1 & R1 reading tells me the windings are arcing. Remove the winding and have a look to see if anything has got ground up between the long fins. If so remove carefully and reassemble. DO NOT USE OIL ON THESE PARTS! (you may not but many do, and oil and electric do not mix!) If this is not what has happened take the winding and the rotor to your local motor rewind company to be rewound. Hope this helps! If you need any more help call us. Our website lists our number. :)
Thanks for the video, this is one of the better, more informative videos on this subject! The service manual for my EB6500SX is about $150, USED, so, you might have saved me that money!
Hi Thanks for the great Video, after following your great instructions I have come to the conclusion that my AVR is toast, I have an old Colman Powermate 5000 which i can no longer get parts for, my question is, can i fit a substitute of equal output ? thanks for any help.
Please contact our Engineers by submitting a ticket here: generatorguru.zendesk.com/hc/en-us We will assign you an Engineer to work through the issue with you. We do not charge for this service. :)
If you have a capacitor then you need to have a look at my video for Brushless Generator Testing. You cannot fit an AVR unit to a brushless alternator without replacing the whole alternator and wiring system. It would be cheaper to buy an new generator, and a lot less hassle! Hope this helps!
Hi, I've inspected everything and it all looks good. The generator is very new, used only a few times but it's been sitting in the shed for a few years. Does it sound like the AVR is gone? Would that horrible noise I described come from the generator if the AVR was gone?
hello this video helped me out in a big way thank you... i have a tested brushes and the winding here are my results L1&L2 16.3. R1&R2.099 R1&L1.191 across the brushes 75.4.... if i heard right you said if the brushes read higher then the windings it would be the rotor?
Sorry for the delay in responding. We have had a few technical issues on our TH-cam and were unable to respond. Yes you are correct the rotor is failing. As your Alternator has failed the tests, you need either replace the rotor, or to contact a local “Motor Rewind Company” to see if they can fix it. These companies can vary in price, so if you have time, it is worth getting a few quotes.
An inverter AVR is very large (at least 200 x 250 mm) and most of the generator models will have an "i" in it. e.g. kge1000ti Capacitors only have 2 or 4 wire connections. Therefore everything else has an AVR. Hope this helps :)
It could be that the floater in the carb is stuck. I suggest a good clean, and inspection of the whole carb. If there is old or dirty fuel it will allow to much fuel through to the engine. The only other thing it will be is a governor problem, but this is very rare.
Rotor needs attention.. Windings may not but need to fix rotor and re-test. Check the diodes on the rotor and replace if possible. This should fix it for you. Some do not have the diodes showing. If that is the case take the rotor and winding to your local "motor rewind" company and they should be able to rebuild it for you. Hope this helps :)
Well you need to run this video to get the results for the readings. In respect to the engine not starting, sounds like it needs a service. Change the oil and fuel (over 6 months it will be stale) and clean off the spark plug. Chances are that will fix your starting and may even fix the electricity problem if the thickened oil id keeping the engine revs low. Hope this helps.
Good point! We are looking at remaking the video soon as this one is very old now, and we will follow your suggestion. Thanks for taking the time and the suggestion, it is much appreciated. :)
Great video. However. My problem is that with the generator running and AVR disconnected when I check the voltage across the brushes I get nothing. 0.0 and same for winding terminals. I have a generac gp5500 brushed excitation
Hi Thomas The next thing to do is to check that the brushes are making contact with the slip rings and that the slip rings have not become disconnected, there should be a single wire running up to each of the rings
thanks to generator guru. your video is very much educational, please i need your assistance. i bought a working core and armeture and core for 2.5-3.0 kva generator but i am having deficulty on the connection of the core and panel
I have a 4000watt predator generator. Ran great for 2 years but at the end of Hunting season I had an electric heater plugged in I my camper and when it kicked back on it ran wide open all of a sudden and I'm not sure if it was making any electricity or not. I need to get it going so I can run my devices at camp. Could you help me with a starting point? Thank you for your time and educational teachings which by the way are great. Thank you!
Please contact us for help on our website to open a ticket with a senior engineer. www.generatorguru.com/need-help/ We will require the result from running the tests in this video to help you. Please provide this with your enquiry. th-cam.com/video/tC_LrrZcx38/w-d-xo.html&lc=Ugwo15WlXUwe1A7d1kh4AaABAg :)
I have a question I got a champion 4 k generator it just started doing this out of the blue when you put a 1100 watt load on the initial startup my window ac unit on the generator makes a buzz like sound coming out of the generator head what is causing this? now if I run my coffee maker that's pulling 1500 watts continuous it's absolutely fine?
+Brandon Setzenfand We think it is best you call us to discuss it with an Engineer. Contact your local office via our website. www.generatorguru.com/ :)
I have a Champion 3.5kW portable generator and it works well for about an hour, then continues to run fine, but stops producing power. Testing at the GFCI outlet shows about 4.3v when it is not working. Testing across the brushes with the AVR disconnected shows 25 volts. Testing L1-L2 and R1-R2 shows about 3.7 volts on each while testing L1-R1 shows 0 volts. Given these readings, I assume that the bridge rectifier/my rotor (if the rectifier is not replaceable) are failing. A commenter on here mentioned that his unit's RPM was too high resulting in this condition and my unit does seem to rev a bit high. I further assume that no-load revs should be about 3,800 RPM, like most power equipment. Any chance its my RPM and my rotor is OK? Just not too sure how RPM and brush AC voltage with the AVR disconnected interact. Thanks for a very informative video in any case!
Hi! Thanks for getting in touch! We are having issues getting TH-cam messages and really want you to talk this through with our Engineer that specialises in your generator. We can get an engineer to have a look at the results for you. We don not charge for advice, but, you will need to contact us on our website so we can get the right engineer with experience of your generator to assist you. :) www.generatorguru.com/need-help/ > Engineering & follow the questions. We are always happy to help! P.S pls state your location for the correct RPM requirements. It will depend on the hz used locally. :)
Very informative video, Mine was bought second hand as working, tried to use but no power, when opened to check readings shown above, someone had removed the AVR. Need to know the type I require from identical generator as in the video. Anyone help?
Hi there For fault finding or technical advice, feel free to contact us using the link below www.generatorguru.com/need-help/ This will allow our engineers to review your query and give you the best possible advice!
for this small piece of chinese generator You can use almost any AVR with 5V wake up :D but better find some with connectors fitting to yours, according to the rated kw. On ebay, i believe. But it would be good to check the generator. If resistance between slip rings is... there is some resistance and there is no short with shaft, start the motor and connect some car battery to brushes. It should give around half voltage on output (depending on generator). If generator changes sound when adding the power source, there is short on stator. In perfect world You have an adjustable 5-10A DC power source to raise exciting up till nominal output voltage is detected and measure actual AVR sensing and feeding. Do it fast and fused :)
Hi, great video. I have a Generac 2500ff. Its putting out about 90 volts through the 240 outlet? (Can find the AV but not the brushes! Any advice please?
Dear Geoff I would expect you to have a capacitor, not an AVR, in this case, can I please ask you to look at the video below www.generatorguru.com/help-me-fix-my-generator-repair-advice/ Run the test in the 1st video and let me know your results, please.
Thanks for the informative video. I am an experienced motorcycle mechanic, but wasn't sure what to look for in testing why my xp4400e generator was only producing 40 volts at the outlets. The tests you prescribed here showed all within normal operating parameters, is it your opinion that my AVR has quit? Thanks again!
Thanks for the tips Styles. However, I am still not getting proper voltage at the 110 plug. (Nor the 220 but I will only refer to the 110 circuit) I get 3.88v~ across the brushes, 3.95v~ at both L1-L2 and R1-R2, and 0v~ at L1-R1. All good right? I show exactly 4v~ on my multimeter and it drops to zero if I switch the 110/220 selector to off or trip the breakers, so there is some sort of activity going on in there. The "pilot" light is off. The genny was run for 12+ hours without issues a few days ago but had no output the next day after an oil change. BTW, its an older Yasutora MDG3600CL Diesel with less than 100 hours on it. The engine is strong and the connectors inside the generator section are clean. Maybe my issues lay inside the panel? The genny in the following clip is exactly the same as mine, with some minor differences: th-cam.com/video/wdiGEKilc5Q/w-d-xo.html
+TrueNorthist Sorry for the delay it sent your message to the spam folder. What voltage are you getting with the AVR fitted? If that seems good voltage then the next place I would investigate is the Voltage Changeover Switch. Your readings from the test indicate that the alternator is good. www.generatorguru.com/mdg3600cl/
Do you have a voltage changeover switch? If so make sure it is set to 110/120v. If you do not have a switch there may be a reading on R1-L1. This means we cannot test if the windings are arcing.
Ed Lewandowski Yes it is low but an AVR should rectify it for you. We are much more worried if the voltage is too high. The breaker position does not make a difference to the readings.
Thanks a lot for all of the fault finding techniques. Really appreciate it. I have one query and here it is. What will be the likely conclusion if I don't get any reading(0 Volts) with the brushes and the windings??
As your results are showing a low voltage, we suggest you “Flash” your alternator. Follow the steps below: 1. To re-excite your alternator, we suggest you only use this method, as described by Generac Generators on TH-cam: th-cam.com/video/-LR62sm7USU/w-d-xo.html 2. Run the generator for 20 minutes without load to stabilize the magnetic field in the Alternator. 3. Test with a suitable appliance to make sure the load is stable. If not go to step 4. 4. Repeat our tests: www.generatorguru.com/help-me-fix-my-generator-repair-advice/ If results are below 1 Vac, repeat step 1. If this continues please contact us. If results are between 1-7 Vac, but you are not getting full voltage at the sockets, then you will need to replace your AVR/Capacitor. If results are above 8-10 Vac range, then you will need to replace your AVR/Capacitor. But be warned that the high reading will damage the AVR/Capacitor over time. This could result in it lasting a fraction of the time expected on a stable alternator. If results are above 10 Vac range, be sure you removed the AVR/Capacitor before testing. If you have and are receiving this result, we suggest you take your generator to a “Motor Rewind” company for repair. You can find your local Motor Rewinding company by doing a search on the internet for “Motor Rewind.” It is worth asking for a quote from a few Motor Rewind companies as their prices can vary greatly.
Thanks for the video. I tested my wurzburg W-8500 and got: 1) 4.4vac 2) 9.8vac 3) 8vac 4) 10vac. Any Idea what's up with my geni? Have you got a wiring diagram of the winding? Cheers. Sam
Hi, I have a yamaha ef1000is that spins freely with the inverter unplugged but is like pulling molasses with it pluged in. I've also read that sometime was told it was the stator that was causing the resistance. what do you think?
Dear Sir This is usually the stator on bigger framed generators, but on inverter generators, the stator very very rarely goes wrong, this is almost always the inverter at fault
Hi there For fault finding or technical advice, feel free to contact us using the link below www.generatorguru.com/need-help/ This will allow our engineers to review your query and give you the best possible advice!
Great video, thank you. I have a Nixon KGE 5500X, could you please tell me the tappet clearance or better still give me a link to a manual. Many thanks, Malc.
I have the same generator unit as this without the frame and switch panel and the wires cut off just outside the alternator unit. Can you tell me how to connect the wires to get 240v? can only seem to get 110v THANKS!
+91GOLDEN Best for you to give our Engineers a call to run through it with you. Please find our contact details on this webpage: www.generatorguru.com/ask-the-guru/
Thank you for this video! I bought a 5000 watt husky generator with a blown 8hp Briggs engine (rod snapped) and changed it out with a 6.5hp harbor freight engine. Is it safe to assume that the only problem I would have is that my output would be reduced to maybe 4000 watts without making the engine die?
Dear Sir Yes, your output will have been reduced that should be the only issue. Usage will tell you exactly how much it has reduced, I would load test it with low value items as you do not want to damage any expensive appliances figuring out what output you do have available to you
Hi, thank you for the video. Nice of you. My generator has an output of 230[V]. The connectors don't say which one is L1-L2-R-R2, just says 1-2-3-4. 2 and 3 are connected with a wire. So L and R are in series. This are the voltages: Brushes: 8,32 [V] 1-2: 3,5 [V] 1-3: 3,5 [V] 1-4: 7 [V] 2-3: 0 [V] (same electrical point) 2-4: 3,5 [V] 3-4: 3,5 [V] Thank you very much.
Dear Sir/Madam, As your Alternator has failed the tests, you need to contact a local “Motor Rewind Company” to see if they can fix it. These companies can vary in price, so if you have time, it is worth getting a few quotes. This is a much cheaper option than replacing the Alternator as the manufacturer charges over ½ the price of a new Generator and we would still need to get it shipped to you from China. Being so heavy, that would be very expensive and outweighs the economy of a new Alternator.
Sorry for the late reply. Your message went to our youtube junk box for some reason. (I assume your voltage should be 110-120v where you live. 1st be sure you do not have a 230v socket on the generator, if you do then this is correct.) Your brushes indicate that the rotor diodes are failing as this should be around 5vac. Take the rotor to a "motor rewind" shop to see if they can fix it. This is your cheapest option. You can replace the AVR but the high readings from the rotor guarantee it will blow the replacement sooner rather than later. Hope this helps!
Where I live, it's 230 V. All sockets outputs in generator are 230V output. (L1-L2 in series with R1-R2) So, my readings are correct then? Got confused with "if you do then this is correct." Thank you a lot! I appreciate it A LOT.
Then yes this is correct. But the rotor readings are too high. If you replace the AVR it will work but the high VAC (should be 5vac yours is 8.32vac) coming from the rotor will burn it out sooner rather than later (never know how short a time either.) So you need to get the rotor seen to 1st if you can.
If you removed the AVR like your are ment to for the test, it means the diodes in the rotor have blown. Best to take it to a motor rewind shop and see if they can fix it for you. (Worth shopping around as prices can vary a lot!) :)
Hi, Very clear explanation! I had 210 instead of 230 Vac on my generator output. All values of stator and rotor were fine. So, I raised the output voltage up to 230Vac by adjusting the potentionmeter screw on the AVR. So far so good, but now the 12Vdc 8.3A output is giving me too much voltage: 21Vdc. I assume this is a consequence of adjusting the AVR. Is there a way of to get the voltage back to 12Vdc without lowering also the AC output voltage? (Off course I could solder some resistor in series with the rectifier but that seems like an uneconomic solution...) For your information: I tested the diodes on the rectifier bridge that goes to the 12Vdc output and all 4 diodes seam fine. Generator: GENERMORE, CF6500 Thanks in advance!
You AVR is failing and needs to be replaced. There is no fix without replacing it for a new one. We do hold AVRs for Genermore Generators and would be happy to help you. You will need to contact our engineer to identify your particular AVR as they made this generator with 3 different alternators over the years. Please contact us on www.generatorguru.com/need-help/
We thank you for your interest in our help videos. Unfortunately, due to limitations in TH-cams comment sections, we are unable to quickly
answer questions in the comments. Please feel free to contact us directly here: www.generatorguru.com/need-help/
PLEASE NOTE: You cannot test the AVR without a very expensive piece of kit called a Megga meter. This is why you need to do these tests to make sure there is no other problems in the Alternator. This will discount any other problems leaving the only possibility being the AVR.
you need to show,or tell,what happens when certain items blow. . my geni reved up. trying to find out why. the shop said,its chinese,buy another. there not interested. its remote start,key,pull,3.500 w. inverter. i have an old subaru,10 yrs,still going,but noisy as hell. 5kva. need a more portable geni. so bought the inverter.small suitcase size.
I have never commented on any of the hundreds (if not thousands) of TH-cam videos I've watched, but I am beyond grateful for this. I promised a client of mine that I would fix his generator, which I've never done before. More than 5 hours and many YT videos later, I still hadn't figured out the issue. The brushes were shot, everything else had continuity. Replaced the brushes, but still no power. You are the ONLY person I found that pointed out that the positive wire always goes on the left side of the brushes. I just hooked them up how they were before (another shop tried to repair). All of a sudden, IT WORKED!!! So, thank you so much for your help. Very grateful for you.
💯
I am so glad we could help! If you need any other info we have an interactive help centre which can help you fix most generator issues: generatorguru.com/need-help/>Engineering
Thank you a thousand times!! You were very instructive in every phase of showing how to properly troubleshoot a generator. You even took the time to show the proper settings on the multimeter for anyone who needed help. Your a blessing. GOD bless you.
I find it interesting that people who really understand what they are doing make great simple instructors. No complicated garble that the watcher doesn’t understand anyway.
Thanks! *blush
Generator Guru back in the early 70s, I was taught by my grandfather, how to rebuild generators, alternators and starters, with the simplest tools available, close to 50 years I've only had to replace one generator to an alternator, switching over a 1960 Ford F-100 Excellent video, really enjoyed it.
Hi Dale
Thank you for the comment, I would love to hear more about it, a lot of people get stuck with the lesser known or unbranded generators as many rewind companies do not want to touch them so charge high prices for repairs to push people away and many people find themselves with a unit that is no use to anyone but not worth the repair costs
Thank you so much! This video saved me weeks of ordering parts, dropping them in and finding out they didn’t fix it. You are the best!
Thank you so much for your Comment! I have patted my team on the back and passed your thoughtful thanks onto them. We really appreciate you letting us know.
Would you be able to leave a review for us on trustpilot? We have recently signed up with them and would like to spread the word and help save more Generators. If you could be so kind, please leave a review via this page uk.trustpilot.com/review/generatorguru.com
Thanks again for your feedback!!
Exactly what I needed and right to the point I wish 99% of the other instructional videos were like this one !
Aw! Thanks sop much!
this is actually helpful. every other video I've been finding requires jumper cables to test the AVR. didn't think about testing the generator itself.
Followed your tests and ended up replacing AVR .Bingo, fixed it.$17 .Thanks
Nice work!
Straight to the point and a very good guide for generator troubleshooting. You have earned a sub!
Thank You! Finally a video on fixing a generator with brushes that makes sense. I am finally now able to narrow down what the actual problem is. It is the AVR. Thank you again for the awesome video.
Thanks brother.. Very well explained.. Great effort.. You saved my generator from selling lol
Subscribed your channel 👍
this is the first video i have seen on generators having a problem with mine and youre the best so far fully understand everything
Thank you for the feedback!
This has been the best instructional video I have found on you tube. Thank you for taking the time to demonstrate the testing. Now I have a question not really covered. I have 4.7 v to both the R1R2 and L1 L2 and 0v on R1L1 but I only am getting 1.7v across the brushes. The surface that the brushes are riding on are smooth. I thought these were grooved. I am looking forward to your expertise on this.
Gary
Thanks for the feedback! R1 and L1 should be 0 vac if you have a voltage changeover switch and set it to the lowest setting. These results indicate you need a new AVR. The AVR should bring up the rotor to 5vac also if you run it for 20 mins without load to stabilize the magnetic field. Your brushes will be smooth where they connect to the rotor, but be sure they have enough play in them to make a good connection. If you are still having any trouble please let us know and we will be happy to advise you further. :)
Sorry I should have added that I have already replaced the AVR. This unit has only been used a short time. brushes are not even worn in yet.So are you saying I should run it 20 minutes with the new AVR? one last question. This John Deere 6200 watt runs wide open all the time. Is that normal?
Generator Guru sir i changed the Generator AVR but the voltage is still not stable ..when i start some things on it becomes decreasing voltage from 220 to 195..
i think the AVR frequency is not set... how i set that frequency
That was a very well explained and informative video. It removes some of the mystery about what's inside the alternator, and teaches the ordinary lamer some basic troubleshooting tips. Thank you.
The diodes on your rotor have blown. Check to see if they are accessible (usually on the end of the rotor or the fan end) if so replace them. If they are "in" the rotor you can take the rotor and windings to your local "motor rewind" company and they can rebuild it for you. But worth calling g a few companies as price varies greatly!
Thank you,
With your help I located the brushes on the Hyundai 7000 and cleaned them so it works again.
Genpower were useless and argued over warranty times so much for the platinum warranty!
Kind regards
Andy
Thank you for your feedback! We pride ourselves on "Good old-fashioned customer care!"We strive every day to save generators and other machinery from being scrapped due to parts not being available. It helps every-ones pockets and prevents tons of CO2 being added to our ecosystem!
We DO want the test in volts (AC. v~). I keep getting emails saying otherwise, but we are doing a different test.
I had a loose terminal on a new duromax 8500 which fried the avr.. They sent a new one but it was only putting out 109 volts on both sides . The avr had an small adjusting screw and I turned it and adjusted it to 120 . Works perfect now.. Thanks for the video
Ummmm.... you should not be adjusting that screw! They are set at the factory and now you have just changed the hertz output!!! That is not good!!!!!
IF IT HAD CORRECT VOLTAGE BEFORE THE AVR BLEW - Run the test in this video and follow relevant steps below.
IF GENERATOR IS COMPLETELY BRAND NEW:
Best to set it back to 109 then adjust the speed by the top screw on the carb. Use voltmeter to set to the correct voltage.
Before you do that. be sure good fuel flow is coming from the tank as the Petcock has a filter behind it which might be blocked.
IF GENERATOR HAS RUN FOR MORE THAN 1 HOUR:
If you were getting low power and it is NOT totally brand new, but has some running time on it, this is what you need to check:
1) it needs servicing. (1st service best done at 50 hours as loads of metal shaving are produced as it settles in) - see th-cam.com/video/ioAgCqPhUfg/w-d-xo.html
2) The engine has settled in and valves need resetting. This needs doing after about 1st 50 hours - see valve setting on our website and follow this video: th-cam.com/video/mYrdnPVmaDs/w-d-xo.html
If you need more help please contact us on generatorguru.com/need-help/ and we can assign you an engineer. :)
The generator is running at 60 to 61 hertz. This was tested with an Ideal sure tester
I have the same problem 60Hz but voltage is good @@roberttreadwell3252
Hi, Generator is outputting around 3.5- 4V on the brushes and 4 - 5 V on the L1, L2, R1, R2 and when I tested the L1 - R1 I was also getting 4 V but im only getting 8V on the 230V output on the generator. what could this error be?
Hey man. Thank you. You made my day. I didn't loose magnetism, just had to change the avr (because i mistakenly connect the public power source to my generator. Turned the thing into a motor in a flash ruining my avr in the process. . That's a awesome guy you got there. (the black cutie) Thanks a lot
nice one
Very good demo. Nice, clear explanation. I thought I might mention though - that the rotor is not "otherwise known as the stator". The part you call "the windings" are the stationary part of the generator - the stator. The rotating part of a generator or a motor is the rotor - whether it has windings, permanent magnets or a squirrel cage structure.
Hi Ralph
Thanks for getting in touch! A few people have pointed it out over the years, a bit of a slip of the tongue we didn't spot until after we had posted the video, it used to have a little tag at that point in the video apologising but youtube seems to have dropped the captions off and won't let us replace them as its convinced they are still there!
Thank you for your excellent and most helpful video. I tested my Firman 4550/3650 and the results were not what I was hoping for. Across the brushes 13.28 L1/2 .38 R1/2 .34 and I didn’t bother measuring L1/R1. Please confirm my worst nightmare about this generator. Thank you again for sharing your time and knowledge.
Sorry! The rotor diode has blown. If you can see it on the end of the rotor you can remove and replace, or take it to a motor rewind shop and ask if they can change it for you. :)
@@Generatorguru thank you. Have a merry Christmas.
Great video.. now I’m headed out to the shop to use what I just learned on a generator. Thank You
Glad we could help
What's that you say? Ahhh! Now I can hear you. I have to remember not to test my AVR on a windy day I guess...THANK YOU!! very content rich. Love that.
Stephen,
Thanks for getting in touch.
Yes, we find on some computers the sound works perfectly, and on others it is impossible to hear. If you have any questions please contact us www.generatorguru.com/need-help/.
We have in planning stage, a new version of this video and a poster for step by step instructions.
Thanks for your feedback! Hope it was helpful even with the sound quality. :)
I agree that this is the best instructional video. Might want to do it for companies and get paid for it.
hi from argentina, your video was very helpful to me, you explain very well all the trobleshooting, thumb up for you, thanks
Excellent video. I learned so much and learned how to diagnose my generator properly... Thanks generatorguru!!
nice video. The only technicality I see is your explanation of a rotor and stator, two distinctly different parts. Keep up the great work! This was a very informative video!
Yeah I got nervous during filming. I did add a note over it on youtube, just after I uploaded the video, to say I got them mixed up but over the years it seems to have disappeared with all the updates that TH-cam have done. Thanks for pointing it out. I will try to get that reinstated. :)
Thanks to you and this tutorial my generator works again. Greetings from Holland.
Verry good !!!! thanks s lot , mam
Always happy to help! FYI... We also have loads more info on repairs and maintenance on your website if you ever need it. :) www.generatorguru.com/need-help/
Generator guru gave me more help with my hyundai generator that the importers of the generator.
So happy we could help! Thanks for the feedback!
@@Generatorguru How are you with hyundai diesel engine parts?
So nice video..thanks teacher..i continue following you from República Dominicana..
Very explicit and concise. You're the best.bless you
I am very much curious, how much resistance reading is expected across the slip rings of the rotor, and does it vary, depending on the power rating of the generator? Very informative video by the way, thanks for the clear demonstration.
Thanks!! Resistance varies from generator to generator, and not all generator companies publish them. Hence needing a better way to test the alternators, and we came up with this! It is called the "Beagley Alternator Testing Technique" and was invented by our company founder many many years ago! :)
I was running my heater off my generator (3000 watts)for about an hour when the heater when off. I checked the generator and it was running and smoking so I shut it off. Would that indicate my windings or alternator is burnt? Great video, very educational.
Yes, you will need to get the alternator rewound by a Motor Rewind shop. It is arcing and burning the varnish on the windings.
+Rick Saffery
You cannot test the AVR without a very expensive piece of kit called a Megga meter. This is why you need to do these tests to make sure there is no other problems in the Alternator. This will discount any other problems leaving the only possibility being the AVR.
Generator Guru my UST 2300 reads 145-190 vac and HZ reads 75-79 time to scrap it?
John,
These are the results without the AVR attached during testing? If not please test without it attached, if so, then follow the next step.
If the hertz are that high then we would be questioning the speed of the engine. First, check the Governor Rod and all springs are in good order (especially the one over the rod to the top of the carb as a little play in the spring will greatly affect this.) Also, service the engine to be sure that nothing has gunked up the governor which sits inside the engine as this adjusts the speed.
In North America, you want 60hz (50hz for European or Auz regions) so you need to slow down the engine if neither of the above is the case. On your generator, you can do this with the screw at the top of the carb. Turn slowly anticlockwise until you get the desired Hz. If this does not work you will need to replace the governor inside the engine.
If you need parts we hold them for your generator. You can buy online on www.generatorguru.com/
I get 94mv DC from brushes which move and look like new. It's a very steady 94mv too. I get 4.14V AC from tests #2 and #3. I get 0v AC from #4. Unit is 3 years old and only got used when new for a few hours. Looks exactly like the one you are working on. I did have it set to 110V like you said. I know AC from DC and I also had the + wire to brushes marked from the OEM. Is the left one too. The rotor assembly is USD $180. Is that the problem here from the info I am giving you? Rotor is clean and shiny. Very clean unit, stored inside. The brown wire(bottom nut) had a bit of rust and corrosion. Is clean now. Great video, only of it's kind!!
What are you getting in Volts AC on the brushes? In need this to tell you what the state of your rotor is. The other tests (on the windings) are good, so there is not problem there. Look forward to hearing from you.
Excellent video. I would have appreciated better close-up shots but I think it was good enough to give me the general idea.
Hey thanks for the info We will try to rectify this in future. :)
(PS. sorry about the delay in answering, for some reason TH-cam sent this question to the "junk" folder. We apologise for the inconvenience.)
Very helpfull. I have a DG6, it looks like I have to remove the muffler first to access the end of the Alternator.
Thanks for your help.
David from NZ
If you have the super-silent version, You might be able to find the Capacitor (or AVR in some models) from the back panel held on by the 10mm bolts (some models only). If not you will have to remove the exhaust... sorry.
Helpful video. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks *Blush.*
He is 1/2 German Shepard, 1/4 Lab, and 1/4 Rotti. He is 8 years old now, and accepts that I talk to a tripod... Don't you love dogs, they accept you for who you are without question, even when you look nuts and talk to yourself.
Thanks for your feedback
A great video, easy to follow. Please keep them coming
Very usefull video, thanks a lot for your teachings.
You are welcome
Don't cry! Yes you are correct in some countries it is called the Stator. It is also known as the armature and the rotor. We sell all over the world so use all these terms.
thankyou very much for your effort and sharing nice video. but i was little bit puzzled during video how can multimeter gives 5,10 volts without any supply. please elucidate this point.
+wajahat hussain This is a good TH-cam video which explains how an Alternator works: th-cam.com/video/tiKH48EMgKE/w-d-xo.html. There will be a residual voltage which is what we test.
Very good explanation of the fault, will serve me much thanks
Always happy to help!
Good footage and really helpful. I have just tested my generator that wont give power. Across the brushes 4.8 volts. L1 and L2 11.3 volts. R1 and R2 2.2 volts. R1 and L1 7.8 volts. Just need to work out now what that actually does mean 😀
You alternator has blown. Sorry! You need to either replace it or take it to a motor rewind company to see if they can fix it for you. :(
What are the symptom of bad brushes? I recently replaced my AVR. I did not replace the brushes as the ones that came with the AVR seemed awful cheap. Now I'm curious if I should have replaced them anyways.
If you run the test on the Armature (Rotor) with the brushes fitted you should get a constant 5vac. If not replace the brushes. If you have any questions you can contact us via www.GeneratorGuru.com and we will pair you with an Engineer who will work through it with you. :)
Very educational video. Just need to move your camera a little bit closer to your work so we can see better as to exactly what you’re doing again very educational video. Thank you.
Thanks for the tip!
Top vid , cheers mate . Very informative.
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi, I have a 3KW Suntom single phase diesel generator. It was ok, but now only producing 85Volts AC. I have followed your instructions, I have 1 volt across brushes, brushes ok. 4.8 Volts on L1 L2. 4.9 Volts on R1 R2 0Volts R1 L1. Do I need a new Rotor?.
Probably 1 of the most helpful and easy to understand videos I've seen. Especially as I'm trying to diagnose my genny which has stopped producing power. I've tried the drill technique and I've tried the flash with a battery after disconnecting the avr. Neither have worked. Tho the genny did produce power for the few seconds I flashed it with the battery. So now I'm wondering if the avr is fried as we noticed water in the extension lead that was plugged into it. So I'm thinking that has sorted out the avr to protect the alternator like you just mentioned it should!
For fault finding or technical advice, feel free to contact us using the link below
www.generatorguru.com/need-help/
This will allow our engineers to review your query and give you the best possible advice!
No the L1 & R1 reading tells me the windings are arcing. Remove the winding and have a look to see if anything has got ground up between the long fins. If so remove carefully and reassemble. DO NOT USE OIL ON THESE PARTS! (you may not but many do, and oil and electric do not mix!) If this is not what has happened take the winding and the rotor to your local motor rewind company to be rewound. Hope this helps! If you need any more help call us. Our website lists our number. :)
Thanks for the video, this is one of the better, more informative videos on this subject! The service manual for my EB6500SX is about $150, USED, so, you might have saved me that money!
Glad it helped
Hi Thanks for the great Video, after following your great instructions I have come to the conclusion that my AVR is toast, I have an old Colman Powermate 5000 which i can no longer get parts for, my question is, can i fit a substitute of equal output ? thanks for any help.
Please contact our Engineers by submitting a ticket here: generatorguru.zendesk.com/hc/en-us
We will assign you an Engineer to work through the issue with you. We do not charge for this service. :)
If you have a capacitor then you need to have a look at my video for Brushless Generator Testing.
You cannot fit an AVR unit to a brushless alternator without replacing the whole alternator and wiring system. It would be cheaper to buy an new generator, and a lot less hassle!
Hope this helps!
Great video Generator Guru! You got a new subscriber! Thank you!
Hi, I've inspected everything and it all looks good. The generator is very new, used only a few times but it's been sitting in the shed for a few years. Does it sound like the AVR is gone? Would that horrible noise I described come from the generator if the AVR was gone?
Excellent video and obviously you know what your doing and gave great advise. Thanks for sharing.
hello this video helped me out in a big way thank you... i have a tested brushes and the winding here are my results L1&L2 16.3. R1&R2.099 R1&L1.191 across the brushes 75.4.... if i heard right you said if the brushes read higher then the windings it would be the rotor?
Sorry for the delay in responding. We have had a few technical issues on our TH-cam and were unable to respond. Yes you are correct the rotor is failing.
As your Alternator has failed the tests, you need either replace the rotor, or to contact a local “Motor Rewind Company” to see if they can fix it. These companies can vary in price, so if you have time, it is worth getting a few quotes.
An inverter AVR is very large (at least 200 x 250 mm) and most of the generator models will have an "i" in it. e.g. kge1000ti
Capacitors only have 2 or 4 wire connections.
Therefore everything else has an AVR.
Hope this helps :)
It could be that the floater in the carb is stuck. I suggest a good clean, and inspection of the whole carb. If there is old or dirty fuel it will allow to much fuel through to the engine.
The only other thing it will be is a governor problem, but this is very rare.
Rotor needs attention.. Windings may not but need to fix rotor and re-test. Check the diodes on the rotor and replace if possible. This should fix it for you. Some do not have the diodes showing. If that is the case take the rotor and winding to your local "motor rewind" company and they should be able to rebuild it for you. Hope this helps :)
Cooper pipe freeze spray works too. But make sure you wear gloves, especially when spraying down the bolthole. Don't want to freeze your fingers. :)
Fantastic explanation,
Well you need to run this video to get the results for the readings.
In respect to the engine not starting, sounds like it needs a service. Change the oil and fuel (over 6 months it will be stale) and clean off the spark plug. Chances are that will fix your starting and may even fix the electricity problem if the thickened oil id keeping the engine revs low.
Hope this helps.
Wish you had indicated if the first voltage test of brushes failed was there any expectation that the next 3 tests be be ok.
Good point! We are looking at remaking the video soon as this one is very old now, and we will follow your suggestion. Thanks for taking the time and the suggestion, it is much appreciated. :)
Great video. However. My problem is that with the generator running and AVR disconnected when I check the voltage across the brushes I get nothing. 0.0 and same for winding terminals. I have a generac gp5500 brushed excitation
Hi Thomas
The next thing to do is to check that the brushes are making contact with the slip rings and that the slip rings have not become disconnected, there should be a single wire running up to each of the rings
Usted tiene un excelente canal, muchas gracias por compartir,
Saludos desde Veracruz México.
Gracias por sus amables comentarios.
Thank you for your kind feedback.
thanks to generator guru. your video is very much educational, please i need your assistance. i bought a working core and armeture and core for 2.5-3.0 kva generator but i am having deficulty on the connection of the core and panel
Hi! Please contact us on www.generatorguru.com/contact-us/ and we will assign you an Engineer to help. :)
I have a 4000watt predator generator. Ran great for 2 years but at the end of Hunting season I had an electric heater plugged in I my camper and when it kicked back on it ran wide open all of a sudden and I'm not sure if it was making any electricity or not. I need to get it going so I can run my devices at camp. Could you help me with a starting point? Thank you for your time and educational teachings which by the way are great. Thank you!
Please contact us for help on our website to open a ticket with a senior engineer. www.generatorguru.com/need-help/
We will require the result from running the tests in this video to help you. Please provide this with your enquiry. th-cam.com/video/tC_LrrZcx38/w-d-xo.html&lc=Ugwo15WlXUwe1A7d1kh4AaABAg
:)
I have a question I got a champion 4 k generator it just started doing this out of the blue when you put a 1100 watt load on the initial startup my window ac unit on the generator makes a buzz like sound coming out of the generator head what is causing this? now if I run my coffee maker that's pulling 1500 watts continuous it's absolutely fine?
+Brandon Setzenfand We think it is best you call us to discuss it with an Engineer. Contact your local office via our website. www.generatorguru.com/ :)
I have a Champion 3.5kW portable generator and it works well for about an hour, then continues to run fine, but stops producing power. Testing at the GFCI outlet shows about 4.3v when it is not working. Testing across the brushes with the AVR disconnected shows 25 volts. Testing L1-L2 and R1-R2 shows about 3.7 volts on each while testing L1-R1 shows 0 volts. Given these readings, I assume that the bridge rectifier/my rotor (if the rectifier is not replaceable) are failing. A commenter on here mentioned that his unit's RPM was too high resulting in this condition and my unit does seem to rev a bit high. I further assume that no-load revs should be about 3,800 RPM, like most power equipment.
Any chance its my RPM and my rotor is OK? Just not too sure how RPM and brush AC voltage with the AVR disconnected interact.
Thanks for a very informative video in any case!
Hi! Thanks for getting in touch!
We are having issues getting TH-cam messages and really want you to talk this through with our Engineer that specialises in your generator.
We can get an engineer to have a look at the results for you. We don not charge for advice, but, you will need to contact us on our website so we can get the right engineer with experience of your generator to assist you. :)
www.generatorguru.com/need-help/ > Engineering & follow the questions.
We are always happy to help!
P.S pls state your location for the correct RPM requirements. It will depend on the hz used locally. :)
Excelente explicación, sencillo y concreto
Thanks! If you need any further help or parts, please visit us at www.generatorguru.com. :)
Woow im going to check my Generator !! Thanks for the video!
Very informative video, Mine was bought second hand as working, tried to use but no power, when opened to check readings shown above, someone had removed the AVR. Need to know the type I require from identical generator as in the video. Anyone help?
Hi there
For fault finding or technical advice, feel free to contact us using the link below
www.generatorguru.com/need-help/
This will allow our engineers to review your query and give you the best possible advice!
for this small piece of chinese generator You can use almost any AVR with 5V wake up :D but better find some with connectors fitting to yours, according to the rated kw. On ebay, i believe. But it would be good to check the generator. If resistance between slip rings is... there is some resistance and there is no short with shaft, start the motor and connect some car battery to brushes. It should give around half voltage on output (depending on generator). If generator changes sound when adding the power source, there is short on stator. In perfect world You have an adjustable 5-10A DC power source to raise exciting up till nominal output voltage is detected and measure actual AVR sensing and feeding. Do it fast and fused :)
I learned a lot, thanks.
Glad it was helpful! We are always happy to help. :)
Hi, great video. I have a Generac 2500ff. Its putting out about 90 volts through the 240 outlet? (Can find the AV but not the brushes! Any advice please?
Dear Geoff
I would expect you to have a capacitor, not an AVR, in this case, can I please ask you to look at the video below
www.generatorguru.com/help-me-fix-my-generator-repair-advice/
Run the test in the 1st video and let me know your results, please.
If it is single voltage you will only have 1 set of windings so will only have L1 & L2 to test.
Hope this helps!
Is it then 10volt reading im looking for?
Thanks for the informative video. I am an experienced motorcycle mechanic, but wasn't sure what to look for in testing why my xp4400e generator was only producing 40 volts at the outlets. The tests you prescribed here showed all within normal operating parameters, is it your opinion that my AVR has quit?
Thanks again!
Thanks for the tips Styles. However, I am still not getting proper voltage at the 110 plug. (Nor the 220 but I will only refer to the 110 circuit) I get 3.88v~ across the brushes, 3.95v~ at both L1-L2 and R1-R2, and 0v~ at L1-R1. All good right? I show exactly 4v~ on my multimeter and it drops to zero if I switch the 110/220 selector to off or trip the breakers, so there is some sort of activity going on in there. The "pilot" light is off. The genny was run for 12+ hours without issues a few days ago but had no output the next day after an oil change.
BTW, its an older Yasutora MDG3600CL Diesel with less than 100 hours on it. The engine is strong and the connectors inside the generator section are clean. Maybe my issues lay inside the panel? The genny in the following clip is exactly the same as mine, with some minor differences: th-cam.com/video/wdiGEKilc5Q/w-d-xo.html
+TrueNorthist Sorry for the delay it sent your message to the spam folder. What voltage are you getting with the AVR fitted? If that seems good voltage then the next place I would investigate is the Voltage Changeover Switch. Your readings from the test indicate that the alternator is good. www.generatorguru.com/mdg3600cl/
Fantastic video, cheers mate!
thanks mate, wish you nothing but the best, your a champ.
Generator Guru, I get 1.7 VAC on all 4 tests R1 to L1 included. Honda EB5000 HELP! Thanks Ed
Do you have a voltage changeover switch? If so make sure it is set to 110/120v. If you do not have a switch there may be a reading on R1-L1. This means we cannot test if the windings are arcing.
Generator Guru Switch was set for 110v. Thanks for you quick reply. !.7 is low too isn't it?
Ed Lewandowski also should I have the breaker on or off on the control panel?
Ed Lewandowski
Yes it is low but an AVR should rectify it for you. We are much more worried if the voltage is too high. The breaker position does not make a difference to the readings.
Thanks a lot for all of the fault finding techniques.
Really appreciate it.
I have one query and here it is. What will be the likely conclusion if I don't get any reading(0 Volts) with the brushes and the windings??
As your results are showing a low voltage, we suggest you “Flash” your alternator. Follow the steps below:
1. To re-excite your alternator, we suggest you only use this method, as described by Generac Generators on TH-cam: th-cam.com/video/-LR62sm7USU/w-d-xo.html
2. Run the generator for 20 minutes without load to stabilize the magnetic field in the Alternator.
3. Test with a suitable appliance to make sure the load is stable. If not go to step 4.
4. Repeat our tests: www.generatorguru.com/help-me-fix-my-generator-repair-advice/
If results are below 1 Vac, repeat step 1. If this continues please contact us.
If results are between 1-7 Vac, but you are not getting full voltage at the sockets, then you will need to replace your AVR/Capacitor.
If results are above 8-10 Vac range, then you will need to replace your AVR/Capacitor. But be warned that the high reading will damage the AVR/Capacitor over time. This could result in it lasting a fraction of the time expected on a stable alternator.
If results are above 10 Vac range, be sure you removed the AVR/Capacitor before testing. If you have and are receiving this result, we suggest you take your generator to a “Motor Rewind” company for repair. You can find your local Motor Rewinding company by doing a search on the internet for “Motor Rewind.” It is worth asking for a quote from a few Motor Rewind companies as their prices can vary greatly.
Thanks for the video. I tested my wurzburg W-8500 and got:
1) 4.4vac
2) 9.8vac
3) 8vac
4) 10vac.
Any Idea what's up with my geni? Have you got a wiring diagram of the winding? Cheers. Sam
Please set up a ticket with our Engineers to discuss further. (We do not charge for this service.)
www.generatorguru.com/need-help/
Good nice explanation, can you please tell me this four wires coming out of avr. Which color wires for? (two blue, one white & one yellow wires)
Hmmm... Ok lets assign your issue to one of our engineers. Please contact them to set up a ticket on generatorguru.com/need-help/.
Hi, I have a yamaha ef1000is that spins freely with the inverter unplugged but is like pulling molasses with it pluged in. I've also read that sometime was told it was the stator that was causing the resistance. what do you think?
Dear Sir
This is usually the stator on bigger framed generators, but on inverter generators, the stator very very rarely goes wrong, this is almost always the inverter at fault
Styles Generator Guru bummer. thanks
Great video..I got 15 across the brushes but they perfect..not burnt in anyway..do yo u think they are the problem?
Hi there For fault finding or technical advice, feel free to contact us using the link below www.generatorguru.com/need-help/ This will allow our engineers to review your query and give you the best possible advice!
Great video, thank you. I have a Nixon KGE 5500X, could you please tell me the tappet clearance or better still give me a link to a manual. Many thanks, Malc.
+Malc Tulloch Intake =0.015 Exhaust = 0.020
+Generator Guru Thank you very much :-)
Cheers bruv.. Nice one
Hope I'll never need it but nicely done and helpful video...
I have the same generator unit as this without the frame and switch panel and the wires cut off just outside the alternator unit. Can you tell me how to connect the wires to get 240v? can only seem to get 110v THANKS!
+91GOLDEN Best for you to give our Engineers a call to run through it with you. Please find our contact details on this webpage: www.generatorguru.com/ask-the-guru/
Thank you for this video! I bought a 5000 watt husky generator with a blown 8hp Briggs engine (rod snapped) and changed it out with a 6.5hp harbor freight engine. Is it safe to assume that the only problem I would have is that my output would be reduced to maybe 4000 watts without making the engine die?
Dear Sir
Yes, your output will have been reduced that should be the only issue. Usage will tell you exactly how much it has reduced, I would load test it with low value items as you do not want to damage any expensive appliances figuring out what output you do have available to you
Awesome! Very impressed and appreciative of the fast reply.
Subbed!
Hi, thank you for the video. Nice of you.
My generator has an output of 230[V]. The connectors don't say which one is L1-L2-R-R2, just says 1-2-3-4.
2 and 3 are connected with a wire. So L and R are in series. This are the voltages:
Brushes: 8,32 [V]
1-2: 3,5 [V]
1-3: 3,5 [V]
1-4: 7 [V]
2-3: 0 [V] (same electrical point)
2-4: 3,5 [V]
3-4: 3,5 [V]
Thank you very much.
Dear Sir/Madam,
As your Alternator has failed the tests, you need to contact a local “Motor Rewind Company” to see if they can fix it. These companies can vary in price, so if you have time, it is worth getting a few quotes.
This is a much cheaper option than replacing the Alternator as the manufacturer charges over ½ the price of a new Generator and we would still need to get it shipped to you from China. Being so heavy, that would be very expensive and outweighs the economy of a new Alternator.
Thank you for your answer. appreciated.
Sorry for the late reply. Your message went to our youtube junk box for some reason.
(I assume your voltage should be 110-120v where you live. 1st be sure you do not have a 230v socket on the generator, if you do then this is correct.)
Your brushes indicate that the rotor diodes are failing as this should be around 5vac. Take the rotor to a "motor rewind" shop to see if they can fix it. This is your cheapest option. You can replace the AVR but the high readings from the rotor guarantee it will blow the replacement sooner rather than later.
Hope this helps!
Where I live, it's 230 V. All sockets outputs in generator are 230V output. (L1-L2 in series with R1-R2)
So, my readings are correct then? Got confused with "if you do then this is correct."
Thank you a lot! I appreciate it A LOT.
Then yes this is correct. But the rotor readings are too high. If you replace the AVR it will work but the high VAC (should be 5vac yours is 8.32vac) coming from the rotor will burn it out sooner rather than later (never know how short a time either.) So you need to get the rotor seen to 1st if you can.
thanks for your video helped me alot.I repllace avr on my generator brushes are find but .dont have power .
Then how did the video help you at all then I dont understand really
When testing the brushes on my gernerator like you described I was getting 34 volts? What's does that mean?
If you removed the AVR like your are ment to for the test, it means the diodes in the rotor have blown. Best to take it to a motor rewind shop and see if they can fix it for you. (Worth shopping around as prices can vary a lot!) :)
Hi, Very clear explanation!
I had 210 instead of 230 Vac on my generator output.
All values of stator and rotor were fine. So, I raised the output voltage up to 230Vac by adjusting the potentionmeter screw on the AVR.
So far so good, but now the 12Vdc 8.3A output is giving me too much voltage: 21Vdc.
I assume this is a consequence of adjusting the AVR. Is there a way of to get the voltage back to 12Vdc without lowering also the AC output voltage? (Off course I could solder some resistor in series with the rectifier but that seems like an uneconomic solution...)
For your information: I tested the diodes on the rectifier bridge that goes to the 12Vdc output and all 4 diodes seam fine.
Generator: GENERMORE, CF6500
Thanks in advance!
You AVR is failing and needs to be replaced. There is no fix without replacing it for a new one. We do hold AVRs for Genermore Generators and would be happy to help you. You will need to contact our engineer to identify your particular AVR as they made this generator with 3 different alternators over the years. Please contact us on www.generatorguru.com/need-help/